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Photographs of

Tibet by Stephen Scourfield

to accompany his book Beautiful Witness

‘These photographs aim to give the reader a taste of the places and a glimpse of some of the people in Beautiful Witness. I was a child who wanted to be a writer, and who later trained also as a photographer, and then went out and discovered a most remarkable planet.’ Stephen Scourfield

This work is copyright. Apart from any fair dealing for the purpose of private study, research, criticism or review, as permitted under the Copyright Act 1968, no part may be reproduced by any process without written permission. The moral right of the author has been asserted. Copyright © Stephen Scourfield 2013

Potala Palace, . Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Potala Palace, Lhasa. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Pilgrims processing clockwise around Potala Palace, Lhasa, in the morning. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Monks debating at Sera , just outside Lhasa. A stamp and slapped hands to drive home a point. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Women in bangdian aprons using prayer wheels outside Potala Palace, Lhasa. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

View over Lhasa from Potala Palace, Lhasa. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Courtyard in front of Temple in Lhasa. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Jokhang Temple in Lhasa. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Views from the roof of Jokhang Temple in Lhasa. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Buddhist devotees in prayer at Jokhang Temple in Lhasa. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Buddhist devotees prostrate in devotion at Jokhang Temple, Lhasa. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Buddhist devotees praying at Jokhang Temple in Lhasa. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

An Old Lhasa street and shopes. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Prayer flags in front of the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

The shop in Lhasa selling new bangdian aprons. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Dolma, who started Dickey Orphanage, Lhasa, , in 2002, is wearing her bangdian apron. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Children from Dickey Orphanage leave in one small car after seeing a Tibetan cultural show at Himalaya Hotel, Lhasa. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Tsering Dolma, an orphan at Dickey Orphanage, Lhasa, Tibet. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Gifted clothes, including Bangdian aprons, for sale at , . Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Ganden Monastery, 75km from Lhasa. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Monks at . Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Ganden Monastery sits on a mountainside near Lhasa. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Prayer wheels spin at Ganden Monastery. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Monks have script to follow for the chants, and robes waiting for them. They just sit in them and pull them up. Inside the main prayer room at Ganden Monastery outside Lhasa. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

A favourite local dish, hot pot, at a restaurant in Lhasa. The centre is chicken stock, the outside ring is spicy. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Yak with a Royal Enfield rider on the twisting hairpin ride from Llasa to Dakyirpa Monastery, just outside Lhasa. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Stephen Scourfield on his Royal Enfield at Ganden Monastery near Lhasa. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

The winding road up to Ganden Monastery outside Lhasa. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Prayer flags cover the mountain at Dakyirpa Monastery, outside Lhasa. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

The ride up to Gampa Pass (4794m) on the ride from Lhasa to Gyangtse via the Friendship Highway and Yamdrok Lake. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Riding up to Gampa Pass, between Lhasa and Gyangtse. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

The Friendship Highway near Nakartse. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

A yak. Overlooking Yamdrok Lake near Gampa Pass (4794m). Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Stephen Scourfield on his Royal Enfield on the Friendship Highway between Nakartse and Karo La pass (4960m). Picture: Stephen Scourfield

The Karo La pass (4960m) on the Friendship Highway, with prayer flags. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Prayer flags at the Karo La pass. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

High mountain scene at Karo La pass. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Just east of Karo La (4960m and seen in background) on the Friendship Highway, with prayer flags. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

The prayer flags at Gyatso La, 5160m altitude, between Shigatse and . Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Stephen Scourfield with the Royal Enfields at Tingri, with 8000m peaks behind.

A motorcyclist west of Tingri, facing 8000m peaks. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Rider Peter Galvin just west of Tingri, facing 8000m peaks. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

The motorcyclists with Mt Everest in the background, on the road between Shigatse and Tingri. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

The elaborately painted breakfast room at Gyangtse Hotel. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

th Cow Lane, Gyangtse. This dates back to 18 Century. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Kunbon , Gyangtse. Kunbon or “” translates to “100,000 images”. It is at . Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Kunbon Stupa, Gyangtse. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Buddha inside Kunbon Stupa, Gyangtse. Kunbon or “Kumbum” translates to “100,000 images”. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

A view from the fort at Gyangtse. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Views of Kunbon Stupa from the fort at Gyangtse. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

On the road from Gyangtse to Shigatse during harvest time. People are winnowing the hay, and also ploughing with yaks. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

A fresh coat of yak dung. On the road from Gyangtse to Shigatse during harvest time. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

A door in Cow Lane, Gyangtse. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Padhun in his small home in Cow Lane, Gyangtse. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

A wide street in Gyangtse. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Stephen Scourfield wrapped up against the cold, dry air of Tibet. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Tashi Lhunpo Monastery, Shigatse. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

The pure colours of Tibet at Tashi Lhunpo Monastery, Shigatse. Picture: Stephen Scourfield