PANEL TASTING Chilean Sauvignon Blanc Despite tough recent vintages, development and refinements continue apace, and the long-term signs are good for quality Sauvignon in , says Peter Richards MW

LOVE IT OR hate it, there’s no denying Sauvignon Blanc’s global popularity and repute. It’s a firm fixture on the La Serena scene too, by a significant margin the 2 country’s most widely planted white variety. It pops up N Ovalle in all corners of Chile’s increasingly stretched wine map, 3 1 CHILE from the Atacama desert down to the deep south, by COQUIMBO ATACAMA way of coastal extremes and Andean reaches. ANDES CHILE It wasn’t always this way. While Sauvignon Blanc has ANDES COQUIMBO long been a key part of Chile’s wine offering, at one time Pacific Mendoza ARGENTINA Ocean ACONCAGUA it was largely confined to the Central Valley heartlands Santiago VALPARAISO Paredones of Curicó and Maule. Often it wasn’t even real Sauvignon San CENTRAL VALLEY 4 Felipe Blanc – instead frequently made from Sauvignonasse Valparaíso SOUTHERN REGIONS (now known to be the same as Italy’s Friulano, an 5 Santiago Pacific entirely different and relatively neutral variety). 6 MAIPO Ocean Osorno VALLEY Perhaps fittingly – given how well a good Sauvignon ANDES washes down the delicious seafood sustained by the Rancagua ARGENTINA RAPEL chilly Pacific – it was the ocean’s cooling influence that VALLEY 8 0 50 100 150 7 San gave pioneering producers the idea to plant whites Fernando kilometres nearer its shores from the 1980s on. First Casablanca, 9 Curicó Chilean Sauvignon Blanc then San Antonio, and since then a host of promising 1 Atacama 6 San Antonio Valley Talca terroirs where the Pacific’s influence brings a longer 2 Elqui Valley 7 Colchagua Valley 10 3 Limarí Valley 8 Cachapoal Valley season, hence more complex, intense flavours – from MAULE ANDES 4 Aconcagua Costa 9 Curicó Valley Aconcagua Costa to coastal Colchagua (Paredones), 5 Casablanca Valley 10 Maule Valley

Atacama (Huasco), Limarí, Elqui and beyond. Map:Maggie Nelson Explore the styles Chilean More recently, other more inland plantings have added Chilean Sauvignon Blanc: Sauvignon to Sauvignon’s diversity in Chile. Some of these are in know your vintages Andean territories, with unique soils and microclimates Blanc: the facts – Laberinto (Ribera del Lago) in Maule and Calyptra in 2018 A coolish, late harvested before the National vineyard area Cachapoal are two examples. Others look to the cooler, season resulted in fresh, torrential rains 137,375ha rainier south, surely an area with a bright future (see p18) upfront styles: could Sauvignon Blanc – Casa Silva’s Lago Ranco project is a case in point. be good 2015 Another warm plantings (2016) 14,999ha Styles are increasingly varied as a result. Traditionally, vintage gave generous As % of Chilean vineyard Chilean Sauvignon sits somewhere between what might 2017 Brutally hot, styles, variable for (2006/2016) 7%/11% be termed the ‘classic’ extrovert New Zealand style and wildfire-plagued Sauvignon 10-year change in plantings the more restrained Old World iterations. These days, vintage: generally (2006-2016) +72% you can find everything from invigorating yet subtle calamitous for Sauvignon 2014 Frosts hit Five-year change in styles (often from northern territories like Limarí or production hard but plantings (2011-2016) +8% Huasco) to tangy, pungent versions (Elqui), or the broad, 2016 Some decent, some good results, Key regions (planted spicy intensity of San Antonio. Casablanca does if variable Sauvignon albeit patchy area) Curicó, Maule, everything from easygoing styles (valley floor and east) Casablanca, Colchagua to more aromatic, citric, complex examples from its Key regions (quality) San more coastal westerly hillsides. Getting to know for example) are sadly still in evidence, while the obvious Antonio, Limarí, Aconcagua producers and sub-zones is increasingly important in partner Semillon is rarely used. Costa, Elqui, Casablanca Chilean Sauvignon. Although prices have been creeping up of late, it’s Production (2017) Oaked Sauvignon is still a niche trend but one that still early days. Much still remains to discover, explore, 123m litres should be explored more. The growing use of foudres improve and refine. A series of challenging vintages As % of total Chilean fine rather than new barrels means more subtle aromatic hasn’t made life easy. But Sauvignon Blanc is clearly a wine production 15% impact while enhancing texture. Other alternative variety that will go on to be a strong point for Chile. Rank in Chilean fine wine vessels – concrete eggs, stainless steel barrels – are also production 2nd (behind being used to good effect. Questionable trends like Peter Richards MW is an awarded wine writer and ) Sources: SAG production report blending with other aromatic varieties (Gewürztraminer, consultant, and the DWWA Regional Chair for Chile 2017; SAG vineyard register 2016 ➢

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‘For producers, lessons need to be ‘for connoisseurs’. On balance, San Antonio (including Leyda) outperformed Casablanca, the latter tending in The scores 62 wines tasted The summary learned. Respect the vintage and Tapia’s view to be ‘more generic in quality and A run of poor vintages has contributed to a disappointing tasting, with few high your consumers – and adapt character’, while the former delivered slightly more Exceptional intensity and complexity. ‘If I were to pick a Sauvignon 0 points. Tread carefully, advises Peter Richards MW, especially with the 2017 vintage pricing accordingly’ Blanc from Chile, I’d go for San Antonio,’ was his advice. Outstanding Stylistically, the few examples using oak worked well, 0 WAS THIS THE most underwhelming Decanter panel perhaps reflective of the lack of confidence or shortage was one of the key reasons for the poor performance in adding depth and roundness without falling into excess. Entry criteria: producers Highly Recommended tasting ever? Quite possibly. Certainly, in the judges’ of stock. Of these, more than half (33) scored 85 points and UK agents were invited this tasting,’ commented Patricio Tapia. Less than one ‘Oak was quite intelligently used when it did crop up, view, this was one of, if not the worst Chilean panel or less. Only 10 wines (16% of those entered) broached to submit their latest- third of the 2017 wines made it over 86 points. adding textural elegance,’ said Vianna. 10 release Sauvignon Blancs Recommended tasting in recent memory. As one commented: ‘Rather the 90-point threshold – there were only two scores of available in the UK for ‘These wines do a disservice to Chile,’ was the So what lessons can be learned? For us drinkers, than giving a drinking window, for many of these wines 92 and the highest a solitary 93. Tumbleweed ran £8.99 or more. Two wines reaction of Dirceu Vianna Junior MW. Dilution, lack of beware the 2017 vintage. There are exceptions, from 19 I was tempted to write: “Never!”’ through the Outstanding and Exceptional categories. per producer were allowed personality, poor value for money and frequent issues Chile’s more northerly reaches in particular, but too Commended Sauvignon Blanc is usually a strong point for Chile. So what did go wrong? Well, the timing for one. with reduction (sulphide characteristics) were cited as many duds for comfort – 2016 and, when it comes, 2018 15 As one of the country’s most widely planted varieties, Two-thirds of the wines in this tasting (42) were from the reasons for this verdict and ascribed to overly high probably make safer bets. Also, don’t be afraid of oaked Fair it is produced in a range of styles across price brackets, 2017 harvest, the fourth testing year in a row for Chile yields, imprecise winemaking, ambitious pricing and Chilean Sauvignon. And choose your producer with care. 8 with some world-class examples at the top end. This (see p121). It was clear that many producers had been cutting corners in production. For the producers, lessons need to be learned. Poor tasting sought samples from all over the country in the forced either to harvest early and underripe, making for Few regions emerged unscathed from the carnage. Respect the vintage and your consumers – and adapt £8-£30 price bracket. What could possibly go wrong? lean, simple styles, or had waited too long. Many wines The Central Valley proved dire, as usual. Tapia identified pricing accordingly. Don’t cut corners in winemaking, 8 Lots, clearly. First, the numbers: 62 wines were tasted simply lacked personality or length. ‘It [2017] was one of ‘the north’, particularly Elqui and Limarí, as positives – lower the yields, focus on character and quality. Above Faulty – itself not a huge sample size for a tasting like this, the worst vintages for Chilean Sauvignon Blanc, and this albeit based on relatively few examples, and as wines all, get Chilean Sauvignon back on track. 2

The judges Highly Recommended 90–94pts Peter Richards MW Patricio Tapia Dirceu Vianna Junior MW Richards is the Tapia is Wine & Spirits Enotria&Coe’s wine Decanter World Wine magazine’s wine critic director in the UK is Awards Regional for Argentina, Chile known to many as just Chair for Chile and has and Spain, and a host Junior. Originally from thus far authored on the El Gourmet Brazil, he moved to Morandé, Gran Reserva, three books including channel in South London in 1989, and in Ventisquero, Grey, Atacama 2017 Ventolera, Leyda 2016 Casablanca 2016 92 PR 92 PT 93 DVJ 90 The Wines of Chile America. Publications 2008 became the first 92 PR 94 PT 93 DVJ 89 Decanter average score: 93/100pts and his own Chile include The Wines of male South American £14.77-£16.95 Cambridge Wine Merchants, £14.75-£16.49 Corking Wines, Exel, Hallgarten, Individual judges’ scores: Peter Richards MW 94 Wine Brief. Married to Colchagua Valley, Master of Wine, also Corking Wines, Davy’s, Soho Wine Supply, TJ Wines Strictly Wine, Wine Poole, Wineman Susie Barrie MW, together they run a wine Todo Vino, and his annual Descorchados guide receiving the Viña Errazuriz Award for Patricio Tapia 93 Dirceu Vianna Junior MW 93 Enticing, smoky, gooseberry nose. Fairly lean Sublimely energetic and focused with delicate school and wine festival in Winchester. to the wines of Argentina, Chile and Uruguay. excellence in the Business of Wine paper. £13.19 Berkmann, The Drink Shop and restrained but with satisfying mid-weight aromas of citrus, elderflower and tropical fruit Fragrant aromas of fresh basil, citrus and hints concentration and crisp, smoky minerality. Long, ceding to a tense, mineral and long-drawn-out of tropical fruit – smells cultured, classy. Lots stylish and elegant. Drink 2018-2020 Alc 12.5% palate; ageing well. Drink 2018-2020 Alc 13.5% My top three My top three My top three of character here, reminiscent of a Pessac- n Morandé, Gran Reserva, Casablanca n Tabalí, Talinay, Limarí Valley 2017 n Morandé, Gran Reserva, Casablanca Léognan in style. At this level, it’s really smart 2016 Ricardo Baettig has long made serious, Going beyond merely fruit, this wine seems to 2016 The talent of winemaker Ricardo Baettig stuff. Drink 2018-2020 Alcohol 12.5% cultured Sauvignon in the top echelons of be made of chalk. Its mineral, austere flavours is evident here. Pure and precise with Morandé’s range – styles that major on texture reflect the calcareous soil of the Talinay succulent fruit, beautiful creamy texture and a as much as aromatics. This is a great-value, vineyard, and the sharp force of the acidity sophisticated finish. 93 Drink 2018-2020 elegantly oaked example. 94 Drink 2018-2020 reflects the nearby presence of the cold Pacific n Miguel Torres, Cordillera, Elqui ocean. 94 Drink 2018-2021 n Ventolera, Leyda 2016 While it seems as Valley 2015 This revolutionary producer if the aromas have been slightly flattened by a n Ventisquero, Grey, Atacama 2017 keeps breaking boundaries, crafting superb touch of botrytis, this wine is all about the On the northern borders of Chilean wine, and wines under the eye of winemaker Fernando Montes, Outer Limits, Zapallar Tabalí, Talinay, Limarí 2017 Viña Undurraga, TH Lo Abarca, palate: intense, layered, balanced, packed with adjacent to the Pacific, this shows a herbal side Almeda. Beautiful smoky minerality and 2017 91 PR 90 PT 91 DVJ 92 91 PR 89 PT 94 DVJ 89 San Antonio 2016 revitalising citrus freshness but also mineral over a layer of intensely mineral flavours. mouthwatering freshness. 92 Drink 2018-2020 91 PR 91 PT 92 DVJ 89 £15-£17.99 Amazon UK, Co-op, Direct Wines, Exel, £16.49 D Byrne & Co, Drinkmonger, North & South weight. 94 Drink 2018-2020 Refreshing and crunchy at the same time. n Montes, Outer Limits, Zapallar 2017 Hailsham Cellars, Kwoff, Liberty Wines, Majestic, Vinum Wines £17.95 Eurowines 93 Drink 2018-2020 n Ventisquero, Grey, Atacama 2017 Great example from the granite and clay soils Seductive, profound and invigorating, with Subtle aromatics of pear and dried herbs. Crisp Anis and citrus pith aromas. A cultured style, Chile’s arid north can make beautiful, poised n Viña Undurraga, TH Lo Abarca, San of the coastal part of Aconcagua, a stone’s aromas of nettles, pear and gooseberry and lean palate of gooseberry, citrus fruit and expansive and profound, with a focus on its Sauvignon in a more subdued, mineral style. Antonio 2016 Located 4km from the Pacific, throw from the Pacific. An overt and ushering in tropical flavours of guava, mango greengage; mineral too, and mouthwatering. ripeness and a layered, creamy roundness. A deft touch of oak lends smoky aromatics and one of the closest spots to the sea here. Offers expressive wine displaying an array of tropical and passion fruit, supplemented by asparagus Drink 2018-2021 Alc 13.5% Drinking well and ageing gracefully. mineral weight to a piercing citrus core. This a clear sense of place with its pungent acidity flavours, gooseberry, asparagus, nettles and and herbal notes. Drink 2018-2020 Alc 13.5% Drink 2018-2019 Alc 13.5% ➢ pioneering Atacama venture keeps getting and citrus/herbal flavours, generous body and herbs. Invigorating and refreshing in all its

NB:tasters’the winestopnecessarilynot are theirtop-scoring, rather thosewhich, learningon wines’the identity, theyfeelmostthearenotable giventheir provenance, priceotherorfactors better. 92 Drink 2018-2020 firm, vibrant textures. 92 Drink 2018-2019 aspects. 92 Drink 2018-2020

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Highly Recommended (continued) 90–94pts Recommended (continued) 86–89pts Wine Score PR PT DVJ Tasting note Alc Drink Price Stockists

Arboleda, Aconcagua Costa 86 84 87 88 Effusive tropical nose augmented by aromas of asparagus and cut grass. 13.5% 2018- £14.50 Corney & Barrow 2017 Pithy, herbal and zesty, with a refined texture and pleasing finish. 2020

Casas del Bosque, Gran 86 87 86 84 Elegant mango and papaya hints on the nose. Soft and sweet, with floral- 14% 2018- £16 ExCellar, Simply Wines Direct, The Grape to Glass Reserva, Casablanca 2017 edged flavours of ripe pear. Pleasant and refreshing, though a little blowsy. 2020 Aresti, Trisquel, Leyda 2017 Echeverria, Gran Reserva, Leyda Miguel Torres, Cordillera, Elqui Garcés Silva, Amayna, Leyda 86 86 87 85 Enticing lime pith aromas. Engaging, rounded, succulent palate, with a touch 14.5% 2018 £18.35 Soho Wine Supply 90 PR 91 PT 91 DVJ 87 2016 90 PR 90 PT 92 DVJ 88 2015 90 PR 90 PT 88 DVJ 92 2014 of sweet spice; interesting, unusual and evolved, and should be enjoyed soon. £13.99 Copestick Murray £9.90-£10.99 Exel, Hallgarten, Hic!, Strictly Wine, £14.99 Fells Luis Felipe Edwards, Ocho 86 85 85 88 Seductive aromas of tropical fruit, citrus zest and rose petal. Rich, smooth 13% 2018- £9.49 Waitrose Forward and fragrant aromas of tropical, Wineman Expressive aromas of honeyed gooseberry, Millas, Leyda 2016 and creamy on the palate with a mellow finish; succulent but not very varietal. 2019 yellow fruit and ripe melon. Juicy, rounded and Aromas of tropical fruit, green pea and herbs mango and a touch of minerality. Exotic, broad elegant with a subtle mineral hint – lovely stuff! usher in a crisp, subtle palate with an and smoky with a satisfying line of mouth- San Pedro, Castillo de Molina 86 85 87 85 A friendly, easy-drinking, tutti-frutti style with crisp and refreshing notes of 13% 2018- £10 Cassidy Wines Drink 2018-2019 Alc 13% appetisingly long, zesty finish. Refreshing, watering acidity. Drink 2018-2020 Alc 13% Reserva, Elqui 2018 pear drops, kids’ sweets and garden herbs. Commercial, juicy and upfront. 2020 linear and food-friendly – one for shellfish. Tarapacá, Gran Reserva, Leyda 86 87 89 83 A tangy, citric, early-harvest style – decent in this context and easy to drink, 14% 2018- £16 Laithwaite's Drink 2018-2019 Alc 13% 2017 but could use more succulence. 2019

Valdivieso, Single Vineyard, 86 85 88 85 Fleshy and smoky, oak playing a major role and combining with ripe 12.5% 2018- £16.99 Bibendum Leyda 2017 caramelised citrus. Good attempt to make something interesting using oak. 2021 ‘2017 was one of the worst Waitrose, Reserva, Aconcagua 86 81 92 84 Broad and ample with notes of gooseberry and ripe apples, a pleasant 13.5% 2018- £7.49 Waitrose vintages for Chilean Sauvignon Costa 2017 example from a warmer vintage albeit a little short on the finish. 2019 Blanc, and this was one of Tapihue, Bill, Casablanca 2016 Commended 83-85pts Fair 76-82pts 90 PR 87 PT 93 DVJ 90 the key reasons for the poor n De Martino, Legado, Casablanca 2017 85, 13.5%, n Lapostolle, Grand Selection, Rapel 2016 82 Next month’s panel tastings 2018-2020, £12.99 Les Caves de Pyrene n Loma Larga, n Ventisquero, V9 Reserva, Casablanca 2017 81 Barolo 2008 & South Africa’s £15.75 Barwell & Jones performance in this tasting’ Lomas del Valle, Casablanca 2017 85, 13%, 2018, £10 n Leyda, Single Vineyard Garuma, Leyda 2017 80 Stellenbosch Cabernets Serious and profound, combining herbal notes Patricio Tapia Berry Brothers and Rudd n Santa Carolina, Reserva, n Santa Helena, Gran Reserva Selección del with tropical fruit and traces of asparagus. Leyda 2017 85, 12.5%, 2018-2020, £11.99 Ehrmanns, Directorio, Colchagua 2017 80 n Chono, Single Ocado n 85, 13%, 79 n Tense, firmly textured and persistent –this is a Santa Rita, Floresta, Leyda 2015 Vineyard, Leyda 2017 Hugo Casanova, Reserve, 2018-2020, £19.99 All About Wine n Viu Manent, Leyda 2017 79 n Valle Secreto, First Edition, cellarworthy white. Drink 2018-2020 Alc 13% Secret, Casablanca 2017 85, 13.5%, 2018-2020, £11.95 Cachapoal 2016 79 n Terrapura, Curicó 2016 78 Bon Coeur, Louis Latour n Apaltagua, Reserva, San Antonio 2017 84, 13%, 2018-2020, £8.95-£9.95 Davy’s, Poor 70-75pts 86–89pts Stone Vine & Sun n Cono Sur, Bicicleta Reserva, Chile n Veramonte, Ritual, Casablanca 2016 75 Recommended 2017 84, 12%, 2018-2019, £7.50 Asda, Co-op, Morrisons, n Viña Casablanca, Céfiro, Casablanca 2017 74 Wine Score PR PT DVJ Tasting note Alc Drink Price Stockists Tesco n Errazuriz, Aconcagua Costa 2017 84, 13.5%, n Veramonte, Casablanca 2017 73 n Anané, Maule 2018-2019, £13.75 Stone Vine & Sun, Waitrose n Santa 2017 71 n Luis Felipe Edwards, Bin 17, Central Bodega Volcanes de Chile, 89 86 90 91 Inviting aromas of asparagus, grapefruit and elderflower. Beautifully textured 13% 2018- £13.99 Lant Street Wine Co, Murcatto Wines, Sheldon's Wine Cellars, The Wine Bank Macarena, Aconcagua 2017 84, 13.5%, 2018-2020, £10 Valley 2017 71 n Miguel Torres, Las Mulas, Central Reserva, Leyda 2016 palate – refined, harmonious and appealing. 2020 Bespoke Wines n Casas del Toqui, Terroir Selection, Valley 2018 71 n Cousiño-Macul, Central Valley Paredones 2015 83, 13.5%, 2018, £12.85 Frederic Robinson 2016 70 n Sutil, Cucao, Central Valley 2017 70 Carmen, Gran Reserva, Leyda A fairly delicate style, majoring on its citrus and yellow plum fruit amid a faint 13% 2018- £14.99 Ocado 89 87 91 88 n Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite), Los Vascos, 2017 yeasty note. Zesty, lean and refreshing. 2020 Casablanca 2017 83, 13%, 2018-2020, £12.49 Averys Faulty n Emiliana, Novas Gran Reserva, San Antonio 2017 n Casa Silva, Cool Coast, Colchagua 2018 Casa Marin, Cipreses, 89 87 90 90 Combines zesty citrus, tropical and herbaceous notes with a sophisticated 14% 2018- £20.99 East Street Wine Co 83, 13.5%, 2018-2020, £11.49 Talking Wines, Taylor’s of n Casas del Bosque, Reserva, Casablanca 2017 San Antonio 2017 texture and fine minerality. Thoroughly decent, if a tad short. 2020 Tickhill, The Offy Whitstable n Estampa, Del Viento, Paredones 2017 83, 12.5%, 2018, £16.95 Frontier Fine Cono Sur, Reserva Especial, 87 91 90 Easy to drink, cool-climate style brimming with bright herbal-toned citrus 12% 2018- £10 Morrisons, Sainsbury’s 89 Wines, Promotion Wine, Waples Wines n La Leyenda de Casablanca 2016 and tropical fruit, heightened by hints of minerality. 2020 Las Cruces, Leyda 2017 83, 13.5%, 2018-2019, £10 Boutinot n Luis Felipe Edwards, Pago Centro, San Co-op, Truly Irresistible, 88 88 91 86 Unusual yeasty, green apple aromas. More present in the mouth, with notes 13% 2018- £8.99 Co-op Antonio 2017 83, 13%, 2018-2020, £10.99 Laithwaite’s Leyda 2017 of limes and caramelised lemons; juicy and rounded, but not super-varietal. 2020

Indómita, Nostros, Casablanca 88 86 89 90 Lively and radiant in its white fruit flavours, with minerals and citrus for 12% 2018- £9.50- Cambridge Wine Merchants, Carruthers & Kent, The Wine Cellar 2017 company. Intense in acidity, tense in structure, but well defined. 2021 £10 Kalfu, Sumpai, Huasco Valley 88 88 90 87 Youthful, aromas still a little blurred, lean palate revealing notes of citrus, 12.5% 2018- £18.50 Frontier Fine Wines 3-4 NOVEMBER 2018 2017 pineapple, fresh-cut herbs and a dash of minerality. Elegant and understated. 2020

Garcés Silva, Boya, Leyda 2017 87 87 90 83 Austere and flinty yet notable for its freshness, with pithy acidity playing a 13.5% 2018- £11.99 Majestic major role and propelling its citrus and mineral flavours. 2019 (2016) An unmissable experience for fne wine lovers Concha y Toro, Terrunyo, 87 86 90 85 Lively and youthful with notes of fresh dough, green herbs and citrus; nicely 14% 2018- £20 Concha y Toro UK Casablanca 2017 textured but lacking somewhat in varietal expression. 2020 11am – 5pm, Cono Sur, 20 Barrels, 87 86 88 88 Restrained and delicate with aromas of grapefruit and fresh dough leading to 13% 2018- £12 Morrisons Casablanca 2017 herbal, citrus and pear flavours. Fairly fleshy and crisp but not super-complex. 2020 Grand Tasting tickets only £80 Haras de Pirque, Albaclara, 87 87 87 88 Inviting aromas of fresh-cut grass, asparagus and green pepper, with a 13.5% 2018- £10.99 All About Wine, Berkmann, Partridges Leyda/Maipo 2017 satisfying crunch, complexity and refreshing bite on the palate. 2020 Book today at www.decanter.com/events 124 | October 2018ž>?=;HN?L or call +44 (0)20 3148 4484