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25_577662 bindex.qxd 12/28/04 10:50 AM Page 264

Index

See also Accommodations and Restaurant indexes, below.

GENERAL INDEX Airfares, surfing for, 26–27 National Gallery of Airlines, 30–31 , 6, 86–87 bankruptcies, 32 Royal Scottish A ARP, 24–25 , 146 Academy, 87 Abbotsford (Melrose), Air New Zealand, 31 Scottish National 136–137 Airports Gallery of Modern The Abbotsford (), Edinburgh, 38 Art, 87–88 126 Glasgow, 146 Scottish National Above and Beyond Tours, 24 Airport security, 32–33 Portrait Gallery, 88 Access America, 21 Alistir Wood Tait (Edinburgh), , 91 Accessible Journeys, 23 118–119 Glasgow, 6 Accommodations. See also All Bar One (Edinburgh), Centre for Contempo- Accommodations Index 126 rary Art (CCA), 189, Edinburgh and environs, Alloway, 236, 238–241 207, 234 49–61 Alloway Auld Kirk, 238 Gallery of Modern Art best, 7 American Express (GOMA), 189–190 and north of Edinburgh, 46 Glasgow Print Studio, New Town, 60–61 Glasgow, 155 192–193, 203 Melrose, 138 traveler’s checks, 17 of Art, New Town, 49–56 American Foundation for the 7, 190, 193, 207 north of Edinburgh to Blind, 23 Hunterian Art Gallery, Fife, 142–143 Ancestry, tracing your, 119 6, 191 Old Town, 56–59 Andrew Carnegie Birthplace The Lighthouse (Scot- West End and south of Museum (Dunfermline), land’s Centre for Old Town, 59–60 141–142 Architecture, Design, what’s new, 1 Anta (Edinburgh), 117 and the City), 194 Glasgow and environs, 1, Antiques Mackintosh Gallery, 158–168 Edinburgh, 116 190 Alloway, 239 Glasgow, 217, 220 McLellan Galleries, best, 7–8 (Glasgow), 225 190–191, 207 Commercial Center, Architecture, Glasgow, 6–7 St. Mungo Museum of 159–164 Argyll (Glasgow), Religious Life and family-friendly, 166 217 Art, 194 Loch Lomond, Arkangel (Edinburgh), 117 Artstore (Glasgow), 220 245–246 Arnold Clark (Glasgow), 155 Art Treasures of Kelvingrove Merchant City and Arran, Isle of, 241 (Glasgow), 191 East End, 158–159 Art galleries, Glasgow, 220 (Glasgow), 212 Troon, 242–243 Arthur’s Seat (Edinburgh), Assembly Rooms (Edin- Turnberry,COPYRIGHTED 243–244 82, 86 MATERIALburgh), 124 West End, 164–168 Art museums, 5 ATMs (automated teller surfing for, 27 ), 16 Adam, Robert, 6, 53, 54, 88, (Glasgow), 6 Au Gourmand (Edinburgh), 92, 99, 102, 106, 158, 241 Edinburgh, 6 77 Addresses, finding Dean Gallery, 86 Auld Brig (Ayr), 236 Edinburgh, 44 The Fruitmarket Auld Kirk (Ayr), 236 Glasgow, 149 Gallery, 86 Avalanche (Edinburgh), 119 Afternoon tea Museum of Scotland, 6 Avalanche (Glasgow), 223 Edinburgh, 72 Glasgow, 179 25_577662 bindex.qxd 12/28/04 10:50 AM Page 265

GENERAL INDEX 265

Ayr, 236, 238 Book Festival (Edinburgh), Burns Country, 144, 235–241 Ayrshire, 235–241 94 Burns Heritage Trail, 236 Books, recommended, Burns Night (Edinburgh), 35–36 19, 94 B abbity Bowster Bookstores The Burrell Collection (Glasgow), 9, 232 Edinburgh, 116 (Glasgow), 6, 189, 192 Babysitters, Edinburgh, 46 Glasgow, 220 Business hours The Bachelor Pad Boots (Edinburgh), 47 Edinburgh, 46 (Edinburgh), 116 Boots (Glasgow), 157 Glasgow, 155 Bachelor’s Club (Tarbolton), Borders (Glasgow), 220 Bus travel, 35 240–241 Borders region, 136 Edinburgh, 38, 44–45 The Bailie Bar (Edinburgh), Botanic Gardens (Glasgow), Glasgow, 147, 148, 154 9, 126 196, 212 Bute, Isle of, 244–245 Balgove (St. Andrews), 140 Botanic Gardens, Royal (Glasgow), 212 Ballet, Glasgow, 228 (Edinburgh), 82, 92–93 (St. Andrews), Bamboo (Glasgow), 231 Bow Bar (Edinburgh), 9, 127 139 Bannockburn, 247 Braehead Shopping Centre Banqueting Hall (Glasgow), (Glasgow), 217 188 Braid Hills (Edinburgh), 95 C abs Barfly (Glasgow), 230 Brass Rubbing Centre Edinburgh, 45 The Barras (Glasgow), 217 (Edinburgh), 84 Glasgow, 154–155 Barrowland (Glasgow), 230 Brig o’Doon (Alloway), 238 Café Royal Circle Bar Bars and pubs Britannia (royal yacht; (Edinburgh), 9, 126 Edinburgh, 3, 82, 126–128 Edinburgh), 90 Café Source (Glasgow), 229 best, 9 Britexpress Card, 35 Caledonia Books (Glasgow), Literary Pub Tour, 93 British Airways, 30–31 220 Glasgow, 3, 189, 214, senior discounts, 24 Calendar of events, 19–20 231–233 British Midland, 31 Calton (Edinburgh), 43 best, 9 British Rail senior discounts, (Edinburgh), Bar 10 (Glasgow), 231–232 24 91–92, 108 Bass Rock, 133 British Tourist Authority, 10 Cameo (Edinburgh), 129 Bath Street (Glasgow), 206 Brodie’s Close (Edinburgh), Camera Obscura (Edinburgh), Beaches, Troon, 242 83, 98 79, 82 The Beehive Inn (Edinburgh), Broomielaw (Glasgow), Cameron Fountain (Glasgow), 127 150–151 208, 210 Beltane Fire Festival Broughton Street (Edinburgh), Canongate Church, 85, 100 (Edinburgh), 19 107 Bernard Street (Edinburgh), Brunstfield Links (Edinburgh), (Edinburgh), 100 109–110 95 Carling Academy (Glasgow), Berwick Law, 133 (Edinburgh), 43 230 Bicycling Buchanan Galleries Carnegie, Andrew, Birthplace Edinburgh, 46, 95 (Glasgow), 206, 217 Museum (Dunfermline), Glasgow, 155, 198–199 Bus Station 141–142 BiddingForTravel, 27 (Glasgow), 147, 154 Car rentals Bill Baber (Edinburgh), 118 Burns, Robert, 35 Edinburgh, 45 Bird-watching biographical sketch of, 240 surfing for, 27 Gullane Hill, 134 Burns Country, 144, Carrick Knowe (Edinburgh), Scottish Seabird Centre 235–241 95 (North Berwick), 134 Cottage and Museum Car travel, 33 Black Bo’s (Edinburgh), 127 (Alloway), 236, 238 Edinburgh, 38, 45 Blackfriars (Glasgow), House (Dumfries), 236 Glasgow, 147, 155 232–233 House Museum Castle Hill (Edinburgh), 98 Blackwells (Edinburgh), 116 (Tarbolton), 241 Castles and palaces Boat tours and cruises, Monument (Edinburgh), best, 5 Glasgow, 197–198 87, 91 Culzean Castle, 241 Bon Accord (Glasgow), 232 Monument and Gardens Edinburgh and environs Bongo Club (Edinburgh), 125 (Alloway), 238 Dirleton Castle, 133 Bonnie Prince Charlie, 35, Burns and A’ That Dunfermline Abbey 100, 254, 258 (Ayrshire), 19 and Palace, 141 25_577662 bindex.qxd 12/28/04 10:50 AM Page 266

266 INDEX

Castles and palaces (cont.) St. Andrews Cathedral, restaurants, 175–179 , 5, 139–140 walking tour, 204–208 79, 96 St. Giles Cathedral, Compass Gallery (Glasgow), Linlithgow Palace, 130 5, 98 220 Palace of Holyrood- St. John’s & St. Concert halls and auditoriums house, 100 Cuthbert, 106 Edinburgh, 121, 124 St. Andrews Castle, St. Michael’s Parish Glasgow, 228–229 140 Church (Linlithgow), Tantallon Castle, 134 132 (Edinburgh), 109 Glasgow and environs South Leith Parish Continental Airlines, 31 Doune Castle (near Church, 110 Corn Exchange (Edinburgh), Dunblane), 247 The , 84 124 Stirling Castle, 246, Glasgow and environs Corniche (Edinburgh), 116 247 Alloway Auld Kirk, 238 Cottier Theatre (Glasgow), Cathedral (Townhead; Auld Kirk (Ayr), 236 225 Glasgow), 149 , Council Travel, 26 Catherine Shaw (Glasgow), 5, 148, 149, 190, Court Bar (Glasgow), 233 222 200, 202 Tennis & Sports C. C. Bloom’s (Edinburgh), 128 St. Vincent Street Centre (Edinburgh), 95 Cellphones, 29–30 Church, 5, 191 Credit cards, 17–18 St. Vincent Street Free Crime, 23 (Glasgow), 19, 198 Church, 207–208 Cruise (Edinburgh), 116 Centers for Disease Control Church Hill (Edinburgh), 43 Cruise (Glasgow), 221 and Prevention, 22 Cinema Crystal Central Necropolis (Glasgow), Edinburgh, 129 Edinburgh, 116 190, 200 Glasgow, 234 Glasgow, 223 Central Radio Taxis Circus Café and Food Hall Cube (Glasgow), 233 (Edinburgh), 45 (Edinburgh), 77 Cuisine, 4, 260–261 Central Station (Glasgow), (Glasgow), Culross, 142 146 225 Culzean, 241–242 Centre for (Edinburgh), Culzean Castle, 241 (CCA; Glasgow), 189, 207, 86 Culzean Country Park, 242 234 City Cabs (Edinburgh), 45 Currency and currency Centre for Women’s Health City Chambers (Glasgow), exchange, 15–16 (Glasgow), 156 188, 203 Edinburgh, 46 Charing Cross (Glasgow), City Halls (Glasgow), 228 Glasgow, 155 208 (Edinburgh), Customs House (Edinburgh), (Edinburgh), 91 110 106 City of Love (Glasgow), 19 Customs regulations, 14–15 Childhood, Museum of City Sightseeing Glasgow, Cyril Gerber Fine Art (Edinburgh), 84 197 (Glasgow), 220 Children, families with Classical music Edinburgh Edinburgh, 121, 124 hotels, 55 Glasgow, 228–229 D aily Record (Glasgow), restaurants, 70 Climate, 18 156 Glasgow Clutha Vaults (Glasgow), 230 Dalry (Edinburgh), 43 hotels, 166 Clydebuilt Scottish Maritime Dance clubs restaurants, 176 Museum (Glasgow), 196 Edinburgh, 125 information and resources, Clyde Valley, 248–249 Glasgow, 231 25–26 Coach travel, 35 Daytripper ticket (Glasgow), Churches and cathedrals Edinburgh, 38, 44–45 154 best, 5–6 Glasgow, 147, 148, 154 Deacon Brodie’s Tavern Edinburgh and environs Cockburn Street (Edinburgh), (Edinburgh), 127–128 Canongate Church, 99 Dean Gallery (Edinburgh), 86 85, 100 Comedy clubs (Edinburgh), 92 Edinburgh, 124 Debenhams (Glasgow), 221 (Church), 88–89, Glasgow, 229 Deep Sea World (North 101 Comedy Festival, Glasgow, 19 Queensferry), 142 High Kirk of St. Giles, Commercial Center Delizique (Glasgow), 184 83 (Glasgow), 150 Delta Air Lines, 31 Holy Church (St. accommodations, 159–164 Andrews), 139 bars and pubs, 231–232 25_577662 bindex.qxd 12/28/04 10:50 AM Page 267

GENERAL INDEX 267

Dentists , 120 Food stores and markets Edinburgh, 46 Edinburgh Royal Infirmary, Edinburgh, 76–77 Glasgow, 156 46 Glasgow, 183–184 Department stores Edinburgh Woollen Mill Football (soccer), Glasgow, Edinburgh, 117 Shop, 118 198, 199 Glasgow, 221 Edinburgh Zoo, 88 Fopp (Edinburgh), 119 Dionika (Edinburgh), 77 Elderhostel, 25 Fopp (Glasgow), 223 Dirleton, 133 ElderTreks, 25 Frommers.com, 28 Dirleton Castle, 133 Elmbank Street (Glasgow), The Disabilities, travelers with, 208 (Edinburgh), 86 23–24 Emancipation Monument Fury Murry’s (Glasgow), 231 Dock Place (Edinburgh), 110 (Edinburgh), 91–92 Doctors Embassies and consulates, Edinburgh, 46 46–47 G allery of Modern Art Glasgow, 156 Emergencies, 47, 156 (GOMA; Glasgow), Doors Open Day (Edinburgh Emerging Horizons, 24 189–190, 204 and Glasgow), 20, 198 Entry requirements, 11, 14 Gallowgate (Glasgow), 149 Dougal Stewart’s Monument Eunice Whyte (Glasgow), 223 The Garage (Glasgow), 231 (Edinburgh), 91 The euro, 16 Gardens and parks, 4 Doune Castle (near Europcar (Glasgow), 155 Edinburgh, 92–93, 100 Dunblane), 247 Eurostar, 34 , 98 Dr. Jives (Glasgow), 221 Euston Station (), 33 Glasgow, 196–197 Dumfries, 236 Evening Times (Glasgow), Garnethill (Glasgow), 151 Dunbar, 134 156 Garnethill Cleaners Dundas Street (Edinburgh), (Glasgow), 156 107 Gay and lesbian travelers Dunfermline, 141–142 F abhatrix (Edinburgh), Edinburgh nightlife, Dunfermline Abbey and 117 128–129 Palace, 141 Families with children Glasgow nightlife, Edinburgh 233–234 hotels, 55 information and resources, E arth Collection, The restaurants, 70 24 (Edinburgh), 117 Glasgow Pride (Edinburgh and East End (Glasgow), 148–149 hotels, 166 Glasgow), 20 accommodations, 158–159 restaurants, 176 Genealogical records, 119 , 133–136 information and resources, General Register Office East Gardens 25–26 (Edinburgh), 119 (Edinburgh), 109 Familyhostel, 26 Geoffrey (Tailor) Kiltmakers EasyEverything (Glasgow), Family Travel Files, 26 (Edinburgh), 117–118 156 Family Travel Network, 26 Geoffrey (Tailor) Kiltmakers Eden Course (St. Andrews), Fashions (clothing). See also and Weavers (Glasgow), 140 Kilts and tartans; Knits 222 Edibles. See Picnic fare and woolens, Edinburgh ’s School Edinburgh and Lothian Edinburgh, 116–117 (Edinburgh), 104 Woman’s Aid, 47 Glasgow, 221 (Edinburgh), Edinburgh Bus Tours, 93 Felix & Oscar (Glasgow), 222 102 Edinburgh Castle, 5, 79, 96 Festival Fringe (Edinburgh), George Square (Glasgow), Edinburgh Crystal, 116 93–94 188, 203–204 Edinburgh Dental Institute, Festivals and special events, George Street (Edinburgh), 46 19–20 42, 106 Edinburgh Festival Theatre, Edinburgh, 93–94 Georgian House (Edinburgh), 121 Filmhouse (Edinburgh), 129 6, 88 Edinburgh Information First City Tour (Glasgow), Geraldine’s of Edinburgh, Centre, 10, 39 197 118 accommodations informa- FirstDay bus ticket Gibson Street (Glasgow), tion, 49 (Glasgow), 148 210–212 Edinburgh International , 144 Gifts Airport, 38 Flying Wheels Travel, 23 Edinburgh, 118 Edinburgh International Folk music Glasgow, 222 Festival, 4, 93–94 Edinburgh, 124 Glasgow, 229–230 25_577662 bindex.qxd 12/28/04 10:50 AM Page 268

268 INDEX

Gilmorehill G12 (Glasgow), (Glasgow), 198 New Town, 49–56 225 The Hanging Out Guides, 26 north of Edinburgh to Giovanni’s Room, 24 Harvey Nichols (Edinburgh), Fife, 142–143 Gladstone’s Land (Edinburgh), 77, 117 Old Town, 56–59 6, 82, 98 Hats, Edinburgh, 117 West End and south of Glasgow Cathedral, 5, 148, Haymarket (Edinburgh), 43 Old Town, 59–60 149, 190, 200, 202 Health concerns, 22 what’s new, 1 Glasgow Comedy Festival, 19 Health insurance, 21, 22 Glasgow and environs, 1, , 202 Heart Buchanan Fine Food 158–168 Glasgow Dental Hospital, 156 and Wine (Glasgow), 184 Alloway, 239 Glasgow Film Theatre, 234 Heart of Scotland Tours best, 7–8 Glasgow Gay and Lesbian (Edinburgh), 135 Commercial Center, Switchboard, 24 The Hearts (Edinburgh), 94 159–164 , 196, 202 Hector Russell (Edinburgh), family-friendly, 166 Glasgow International 118 Loch Lomond, 245–246 Airport, 146 Hector Russell (Glasgow), 222 Merchant City and Glasgow International Jazz Helensburgh, 244 East End, 158–159 Festival, 20 Heraghty’s Free House Troon, 242–243 Glasgow Print Studio, (Glasgow), 233 Turnberry, 243–244 192–193, 203, 220 The Herald (Glasgow), 156 West End, 164–168 Glasgow Royal Concert Hall, The Hibs (Edinburgh), 94 surfing for, 27 228 High Kirk of St. Giles Hot lines , 7, (Edinburgh), 83 Edinburgh, 47 190, 193, 207 Highland Country Buses, 35 Glasgow, 156 Glasgow Underground, 154 Highland Gatherings or Global Refund, 34 Games, 256–257 (Glasgow), 193–194 Golf, 4 Hiking the West Highland House of Fraser’s (Glasgow), Edinburgh and environs, 95 Way, 246 221 Muirfield Golf Course, (Glasgow), 152 Hume, David, 92 134–135 Hill House (Glasgow), 193 Hunterian Art Gallery St. Andrews, 140 Hill House (Helensburgh), 244 (Glasgow), 6, 191 Glasgow and environs, 199 , 250–256 Hunterian Museum Troon, 242 recommended books (Glasgow), 191 Turnberry, 243 about, 36 Gorbals (Glasgow), 152 HMV (Glasgow), 223 Govan (Glasgow), 152 Hogmanay (Edinburgh and I 2roam, 29 Grand Ole Opry (Glasgow), Glasgow), 20, 94 IAMAT (International Associ- 230 Holiday Care, 23 ation for Medical Assis- (Edinburgh), 104 Holidays, 19 tance to Travelers), 22 and Clyde Holmwood House (Glasgow), iCan, 23–24 Valley Tourist Board, 6, 192 IGLTA (International Gay & 10–11, 147, 148 (Edinburgh), Lesbian Travel Associa- Great Western Road 85–86, 100 tion), 24 (Glasgow), 212 Holy Trinity Church (St. IJ Mellis Cheesemonger Grecian Buildings (Glasgow), Andrews), 139 (Glasgow), 184 207 The Honeycomb (Edinburgh), IJ Mellis Cheesemongers Greyfriars Church 125 (Edinburgh), 77 (Edinburgh), 101 Hopetoun House (South Information & Booking Hot Greyfriars Kirk (Edinburgh), Queensferry), 132 Line (Glasgow), 158 88–89 , Edinburgh, 94 Information sources, 10–11 Grosvenor (Glasgow), 234 The Horse Shoe (Glasgow), Ayrshire, 236 GSM (Global System for 9, 232 Edinburgh, 39 Mobiles) system, 29 Hoteldiscounts.com, 27 Glasgow, 147–148 Guildford Arms (Edinburgh), Hotels. See also Accommo- Insurance, 20–22 126 dations Index Intellicast, 30 Gullane Hill, 134 Edinburgh and environs, International Association for 49–61 Medical Assistance to best, 7 Travelers (IAMAT), 22 H abana (Edinburgh), 128 Leith and north of International Gay & Lesbian Hamilton & Inches New Town, 60–61 Travel Association (Edinburgh), 119 Melrose, 138 (IGLTA), 24 25_577662 bindex.qxd 12/28/04 10:50 AM Page 269

GENERAL INDEX 269

International Story Telling (Glasgow), Mackintosh Centre Festival (Edinburgh), 20 208, 225 (Glasgow), 194 International Student King Tut’s Wah-Wah Hut Mackintosh Shop (Glasgow), Identity Card (ISIC), 26 (Glasgow), 9, 224, 222 International Youth Travel 230–231 McLellan Galleries (Glasgow), Card (IYTC), 26 Knits and woolens, 2, 190–191, 207 Internet access, 28–29 Edinburgh, 118 McNaughtan’s Bookshop Edinburgh, 47 Knox, John, 98, 139, 190, 253 (Edinburgh), 116 Glasgow, 156 House (Edinburgh), 84, 99 Macsween of Edinburgh, 69 InTouch USA, 30 Malls and shopping centers, IPass network, 29 Glasgow, 216–217 Ireland L amb’s House (Edin- (Edinburgh), 43 Embassy (London), 47 burgh), 110 Marks & Spencer (Glasgow), passports, 14 , 248 222 ISIC (International Student Language, 258–260 Mary Queen of Scots, 79, 85, Identity Card), 26 Lastminute.com, 27 100, 109, 130, 138, 139, Italian Centre (Glasgow), 203 Laundry and dry cleaning 141, 246, 253–254 IYTC (International Youth Edinburgh, 47 MasterCard ATM Locator, 30 Travel Card), 26 Glasgow, 156 Meadowbank Sports Centre Leith (Edinburgh), 42, 43–44 (Edinburgh), 95 accommodations, 60–61 The Meadows (Edinburgh), J ames Pringle Weavers pubs and bars, 128 92, 102 (Edinburgh), 118 restaurants, 75–76 MEDEX International, 21 James Pringle Weavers walking tour, 109–112 Medic Alert Identification (Glasgow), 222 Leith Links (Edinburgh), 109 Tag, 22 Jazz Festival, Glasgow (Edinburgh), 43 Medical insurance, 21, 22 International, 20, 198 Lesbian Line (Edinburgh), 47 Medieval Glasgow, 148 (Edinburgh), 117 The Lighthouse (Scotland’s Melrose, 136–138 Jewelry, Edinburgh, 118 Centre for Architecture, Melrose Abbey, 137–138 Jigsaw (Glasgow), 221 Design, and the City; Mercat Glasgow, 197 (Edinburgh), Glasgow), 193, 194 Mercat Tours (Edinburgh), 93 84, 99 Linlithgow, 130, 132–133 Merchant City (Glasgow), John Lewis (Edinburgh), 117 Linlithgow Palace, 130 148, 149 John Lewis (Glasgow), 217, The Liquid Room accommodations, 158–159 221 (Edinburgh), 125 bars and pubs, 232–233 Johnson’s Cleaners Liquid Ship (Glasgow), 233 restaurants, 171–175 (Edinburgh), 47 Lismore Lounge (Glasgow), sights and attractions, Jongleurs Comedy Club 233 188–191 (Edinburgh), 124 The List, 120, 156, 169, 229 walking tour, 200–204 Jongleurs Comedy Club Literary Pub Tour (Edinburgh), Merchant Square (Glasgow), (Glasgow), 229 93 203 Jubilee Course (St. Andrews), Little Sparta (near Dunsyre), Military Tattoo (Edinburgh), 140 138 94 Loch Katerine, 247 (Glasgow), Loch Lomond, 245–246 156 K elvingrove Park Lomond Shores, 245 Mitchell Theatre (Glasgow), (Glasgow), 210 Lost-luggage insurance, 225 International 21–22 Money matters, 15–18 Sports Arena (Glasgow), Lothian Gay & Lesbian Moray Place (Glasgow), 213 199 Switchboard (Edinburgh), Morningside (Edinburgh), 43 Kember & Jones Fine Food 24, 47 Moss Bros (Glasgow), 223 Emporium (Glasgow), 184 Luggage storage/lockers, MossRehab Hospital, 23 Kilt hire, Glasgow, 223 Edinburgh, 47 (Edinburgh), 104 Kilts and tartans, 257–258 Lupe Pintos (Edinburgh), 77 Mount Stuart (Isle of Bute), Edinburgh, 117–118 244 Glasgow, 222 Movies King’s Cross Station M ackintosh, Charles Edinburgh, 129 (London), 33 Rennie, 165, 179, 183, Glasgow, 234 Kings Theatre (Edinburgh), 189–191, 193–196, 206, 120–121 207, 244, 245 House (Glasgow), 211 25_577662 bindex.qxd 12/28/04 10:50 AM Page 270

270 INDEX

Muir, John, 134 Newspapers, Edinburgh, 47 Old Fruitmarket (Glasgow), Muirfield Golf Course, Newspapers and magazines, 228 134–135 Glasgow, 156 Old Town (Edinburgh), 4, 37, Stadium New Town (Edinburgh), 37, 39, 42 (Edinburgh), 95, 124 39, 42–43 accommodations, 56–59 Museum of Childhood accommodations, 49–56 south of Old Town, (Edinburgh), 84 north of New Town, 59–60 60–61 pubs and bars, 127–128 (Edinburgh), 85 pubs and bars, 126–127 restaurants, 71–74 Museum of Scotland restaurants, 66–71 Old Town Jail (Stirling), 247 (Edinburgh), 6, 87, 101 walking tour, 104–109 Opal Lounge (Edinburgh), Museum of Transport Newtown Bar (Edinburgh), 127 (Glasgow), 192 128 Open World magazine, 24 Music Nice ‘n’ Sleazy (Glasgow), Opera classical 231 Edinburgh, 121 Edinburgh, 121, 124 Nicolson Square (Edinburgh), Glasgow, 228 Glasgow, 228–229 102 Oran Mor (Glasgow), 229 folk, Edinburgh, 124 Nightlife and entertainment Organized tours rock, pop, and jazz Edinburgh, 120–129 Edinburgh, 93 Edinburgh, 124–125 cinema, 129 Glasgow, 197–198 Glasgow, 230 club and music scene, Orient Express Trains & Music stores 124 Cruises, 33 Edinburgh, 119 gay and lesbian, 128 Our Dynamic Earth Glasgow, 223 performing arts, (Edinburgh), 89–90 Racecourse 120–124 The Outhouse (Edinburgh), (near Edinburgh), 94 pubs and bars, 126–127 126–128 Outlook Tower (Edinburgh), Glasgow, 224–234 79, 82 N ational Express, 35 cinema, 234 National Gallery of Scotland club and music scene, (Edinburgh), 6, 86–87 229–231 P addy’s Market National Library of Scotland gay and lesbian, (Glasgow), 217 (Edinburgh), 89 233–234 Palace of Holyroodhouse National Monument performing arts, (Edinburgh), 5, 85–86, (Edinburgh), 91 224–229 100 National Passport Agency, 11 pubs and bars, Park Church Tower National Passport Informa- 231–233 (Glasgow), 210 tion Center, 11 Nithsdale Road (Glasgow), Park Circus (Glasgow), 210 National Trust for Scotland 213 Parks and gardens, 4 Shop (Glasgow), 222 North Berwick, 133–136 Edinburgh, 92–93, 100 The Necropolis (Glasgow), North Bridge (Edinburgh), Ramsay Garden, 98 190, 200 108 Glasgow, 196–197 Neighborhoods Northern Belle, 33 Parliament Building, Scottish Edinburgh, 42–44 Northern New Town (Edinburgh), 90–91 Glasgow, 149–152 (Edinburgh), 107 Partick (Glasgow), 152 Nelson Mandela Place North Queensferry, 142 Passports, 11, 14 (Glasgow), 206 Northwest Airlines, 31 Patisserie Françoise Nelson Monument Now, Voyager, 24 (Glasgow), 184 (Edinburgh), 91 Pavilion Theatre (Glasgow), Ness Clothing (Edinburgh), 228 118 O cean Terminal Peckham’s (Edinburgh), 77 New Course (St. Andrews), (Edinburgh), 113 Pekhams (Glasgow), 184 140 Odeon at the Quay People’s Palace (Glasgow), Newhaven (Edinburgh), 44 (Glasgow), 234 194 , 248–249 Old College (Edinburgh), The People’s Story New Parliament (Edinburgh), 101–102 (Edinburgh), 85 100 Old Course (St. Andrews), Performing arts 140 Edinburgh, 120–124 Glasgow, 224–229 25_577662 bindex.qxd 12/28/04 10:50 AM Page 271

GENERAL INDEX 271

Pharmacies Queen Street Station Southside, 183 Edinburgh, 47 (Glasgow), 147 Stirling, 247–248 Glasgow, 157 tipping, 169 Picnic fare West End, 180–182 Edinburgh, 76–77 R abbie’s Bar (Ayr), 238 what’s new, 2 Glasgow, 183–184 Ragamuffin (Edinburgh), 118 Restrooms Planet Out (Edinburgh), 129 Rail Europe, 34 Edinburgh, 47 Country Park Rainfall, average, 18 Glasgow, 157 (Glasgow), 197 Ramsay Garden (Edinburgh), Revolver (Glasgow), 234 (Glasgow), 192 98 , 185 Pollokshaws (Glasgow), 152 Ramshorn Theatre (Glasgow), RoadPost, 30 Pollokshaws Road (Glasgow), 203, 228 Robert the Bruce, 138, 141, 215 Rape Crisis Centre 247, 250, 253 Polo Lounge (Glasgow), 234 (Edinburgh), 47 Roger Billcliffe Fine Art Po Na Na (Edinburgh), 125 Rape Crisis Centre (Glasgow), (Glasgow), 220 The Pond Bar (Edinburgh), 156 (Edinburgh), 128 RAW (Real Art Weekend; 104, 106 Porcelain and crystal, Glasgow), 19 Ross Theatre (Edinburgh), 121 Glasgow, 223 The Real Mary King’s Close Royal and Ancient Golf Club Port Edgar Sailing Centre (Edinburgh), 1, 83–84 (St. Andrews), 140 (near Edinburgh), 95 Relish (Edinburgh), 77 Royal Botanic Gardens (Edin- Portobello (Edinburgh), 95 Rent-a-Bike Edinburgh, burgh), 82, 92–93 Post offices 46, 95 Edinburgh, 47 Restaurants. See also (Edinburgh), 95 Glasgow, 157 Restaurant Index Royal Exchange Square The Pot Still (Glasgow), 9, Edinburgh and environs, (Glasgow), 204 232 1, 62–77 Royal Highland Show Prestwick International Air- afternoon tea, 72 (Edinburgh), 19 port (near Glasgow), 146 best, 8 Royal Infirmary (Glasgow), Pride (Edinburgh and by cuisine, 63, 66 156 Glasgow), 20 Dunbar and Gullane, Princes Mall (Edinburgh), 135–136 (Edinburgh), 121 113 family-friendly, 70 (Edinburgh), Princes Square (Glasgow), late-night, 125 39, 42 216 Leith, 75–76 sights and attractions, 79, Princes Street (Edinburgh), Linlithgow and envi- 82–86 42, 106 rons, 132–133 The Royal Oak (Edinburgh), Melrose, 138 9, 124 (Edinburgh), 92 New Town and West Promenade Concerts End, 66–71 (Edinburgh), 87, 104 (Glasgow), 19 Old Town, 71–74 Royal Scottish Academy Provand’s Lordship prices, 62 of Music and Drama (Glasgow), 202 smoking, 62–63 (Glasgow), 229 Pubs and bars Southside, 74–75 Royal Scottish National Edinburgh, 3, 82, 126–128 tipping, 62 Orchestra (Glasgow), 229 best, 9 Glasgow and environs, Royal Troon Golf Club, 242 Literary Pub Tour, 93 169–184 Rugby, Edinburgh, 95 Glasgow, 3, 189, 214, afternoon tea, 179 Rumpleduck Travel, 23 231–233 Alloway, 239 Ryanair, 31 best, 9 best, 8–9 Commercial Center, 175–179 S afety, 23 Q antas, 31 by cuisine, 170–171 Edinburgh, 48 Queen’s Gallery (Edinburgh), family-friendly, 176 Glasgow, 157 85 Lanark, 249 Sailing, Edinburgh, 95 Queen’s Hall (Edinburgh), late-night, 230 St. Andrews, 139–143 121 Merchant City, St. Andrews, University of, Queens Park (Glasgow), 213 171–175 140 Queen Street (Edinburgh), prices, 169 42, 107 smoking, 169 25_577662 bindex.qxd 12/28/04 10:50 AM Page 272

272 INDEX

St. Andrews Castle, 140 Scottish Exhibition & Con- Society for Accessible Travel St. Andrews Cathedral, ference Centre (Glasgow), and Hospitality, 23 139–140 231 Soletrader (Glasgow), 223 St. Andrews in the Square Scottish National Gallery of Souter Johnnie’s Cottage (Glasgow), 229–230 Modern Art (Edinburgh), (Alloway), 239 St. Andrew Square 87–88 South Leith (Edinburgh), 108 Scottish National Portrait (Edinburgh), 110, 112 St. Andrew’s Square Gallery (Edinburgh), 88 Southside (Edinburgh), 42 (Glasgow), 202 Scottish Opera (Glasgow), restaurants, 74–75 St. Cuthbert Church 228 Southside (Glasgow), 148, (Edinburgh), 106 Scottish Parliament Building 152 St. Enoch Shopping Centre (Edinburgh), 90–91 pub, 233 (Glasgow), 217 Scottish Seabird Centre restaurants, 183 St. Giles (Edinburgh), 5 (North Berwick), 134 sights and attractions, 192 St. Giles Cathedral Scottish Tours (Edinburgh), walking tour, 212–215 (Edinburgh), 83, 98 135 Special events and festivals, St. James Centre Seasons, 18–19 19–20 (Edinburgh), 113 Senior travel, 24–25 Edinburgh, 93–94 St. John’s Church Shawlands Cross (Glasgow), Spectator sports (Edinburgh), 106 215 Edinburgh, 94–95 St. Michael’s Parish Church Shoes Glasgow, 198 (Linlithgow), 132 Edinburgh, 119 Sports complexes, gyms, and St. Mungo Museum of Glasgow, 223 pools Religious Life and Art Shopping, 4 Edinburgh, 95 (Glasgow), 194 Edinburgh, 82, 113–119 Glasgow, 199 St. Vincent Street (Glasgow), best buys, 113 The Stand (Edinburgh), 124 204, 206 malls and shopping The Stand (Glasgow), 229 St. Vincent Street Church centers, 113, 116 Starry Starry Night (Glasgow), 5, 191 Glasgow, 216–223 (Glasgow), 221 St. Vincent Street Free best buys, 216 STA Travel, 26 Church (Glasgow), 207 malls and shopping Stevenson, Robert Louis, Sala (Edinburgh), 129 centers, 216–217 35–37 Saltmarket (Glasgow), The Shore (Edinburgh), 110, biographical sketch of, 89 149–150 128 Stewart, Dougal, Monument Sandy Bell’s (Edinburgh), The Shore Bar & Restaurant (Edinburgh), 91 9, 124, 126 (Edinburgh), 9, 76, 110 Stirling, 246–248 Sights and attractions Stirling Castle, 247 (Glasgow), 206 Edinburgh and environs, 1, Stockbridge (Edinburgh), Schuh (Edinburgh), 119 78–94 43, 107 Schuh (Glasgow), 223 Frommer’s favorite Stockwell Bazaar (Glasgow), Science Centre (Glasgow), experiences, 82 223 194–196 organized tours, 93, Stone of Scone (Stone of Scotch Whisky Heritage 135 Destiny), 255 Centre (Edinburgh), 90 suggested intineraries, Story Telling Festival, Inter- The Scotia Bar (Glasgow), 230 78–79 national (Edinburgh), 20 Scotland Street School Glasgow and environs, 2, Strathclyde Gay and Lesbian (Glasgow), 193 4, 185–198 Switchboard (Glasgow), Scotland Street School Frommer’s favorite 156 Museum (Glasgow), 196 experiences, 189 Strathclyde Passenger Trans- ScotRail shuttle service, 147 organized tours, port (SPT; Glasgow), 154 Scotstoun Leisure Centre 197–198 Strathtyrum Course (St. (Glasgow), 199 suggested itineraries, Andrews), 140 Scott, Sir Walter, 36 188 Streetlevel gallery (Glasgow), Abbotsford (Melrose), Golf Course 192 136–137 (Edinburgh), 95 Student travel, 26 biographical sketch of, 137 Sir Jules Thorn Exhibition of The (Glasgow), 231 Monument (Edinburgh), the History of Surgery Swimming 87, 108–109 (Edinburgh), 91 Edinburgh, 95 statue of (Glasgow), 188 Smarter Living, 27 Glasgow, 199 Scottish Ballet (Glasgow), 228 Soccer (football), Glasgow, Scottish Cycle Safaris 198, 199 (Edinburgh), 46, 95 25_577662 bindex.qxd 12/28/04 10:50 AM Page 273

GENERAL INDEX 273

Town Kirk (St. Andrews), 139 passports, 11 T albot Rice Gallery Train travel, 38 visitor information in, 10 (Edinburgh), 91 from continental Europe, Universal Currency The Tall Ship at Glasgow 34 Converter, 30 Harbour, 196 from England, 33–34 University of St. Andrews, Tam o’Shanter Experience Glasgow, 146–147 140–141 (Alloway), 238–239 (Glasgow), 213, 228 Urban Outfitters (Glasgow), Tam o’Shanter Inn (Ayr), 236 Transcentre (Glasgow), 154 221 Tantallon Castle, 134 Transport, Museum of (Edinburgh), 121, Tartan Gift Shops (Glasgow), 192 124 (Edinburgh), 118 Transportation USIT, 26 Tartans and kilts, 257–258 Edinburgh, 44–46 USIT Campus, 26 Edinburgh, 117–118 Glasgow, 152–155 Glasgow, 222 Traquair House (Innerleithen), Taxis 138 V alvonna & Crolla Edinburgh, 45 Travel Assistance Interna- (Edinburgh), 77 Glasgow, 154–155 tional, 21 VAT (value-added tax) Tea. See Afternoon tea TravelAxe, 27 refund, 34, 117 Telephone, calling Travelbritain.org, 11 The (Glasgow), 229 Scotland, 15 Travel CUTS, 26 The Vaults (Edinburgh), 110 Temperatures, average, 18 Traveler’s checks, 16–17 Venue (Edinburgh), 125 House (Glasgow), Travelex Insurance Services, Victoria (club; Glasgow), 191 21 230 Tennis, Edinburgh, 95 Travel Guard International, Victoria Coach Station Teviot Place (Edinburgh), 102 21 (London), 35 Theater Traveling Internationally Victorian Village (Glasgow), Edinburgh, 120–121 with Your Kids, 26 220 Glasgow, 224–225, 228 Travel insurance, 20–22 Virgin Atlantic Airways, 31 St. Andrews, 139 Travel Insured International, Virgin Megastore Theatre Royal (Glasgow), 21 (Edinburgh), 119 228 Travelocity, 26, 27 Visa, traveler’s checks, 17 Theatre Workshop (Edinburgh), Visa ATM Locator, 30 (Edinburgh), 121 121 VisitBritain, 10 Thistle Books (Glasgow), 220 Trinity College (now Trinity Visitor information, 10–11 Thomas Pink (Glasgow), 221 House; Glasgow), 210 Ayrshire, 236 Thomson, Alexander Trinity House (Edinburgh), Edinburgh, 39 “Greek,” 5, 6, 189, 191, 110 Glasgow, 147–148 192, 195, 206, 213 Trip-cancellation insurance, VisitScotland, 10, 11 Thorn, Sir Jules, Exhibition of 21 Voltaire & Rousseau the History of Surgery Tripscope, 23 (Glasgow), 220 (Edinburgh), 91 Tron tower (Glasgow), Vroni’s Wine Bar (Glasgow), Thrifty car rentals, 202 232 Edinburgh, 45 The Tron Kirk (Edinburgh), 84 Vue Edinburgh, 129 Timberbush Tours (Glasgow), 202, (Edinburgh), 135 228 Tim Wright Antiques Troon, 242–243 W alker Slater (Edinburgh), (Glasgow), 217 The Trossachs, 247 116–117 Toilets Turnberry, 243–244 Walking tours Edinburgh, 47 Turnberry Hotel Golf Edinburgh, 96–112 Glasgow, 157 Courses, 243 Leith, 109–112 Tollcross (Edinburgh), 43 New Town, 104–109 Tollcross Park Leisure Centre Old Town and The (Glasgow), 199 U GC (Edinburgh), 129 Royal Mile, 96–100 Top of Leith Walk UGC Renfrew Street south of the Royal (Edinburgh), 108 (Glasgow), 234 Mile, 101–104 Tourist information, 10–11 Underground (Glasgow), 154 Glasgow, 200–215 Ayrshire, 236 United Airlines, 31 Commercial Center, Edinburgh, 39 passports, 204–208 Glasgow, 147–148 14 Merchant City, Tours, organized United States 200–204 Edinburgh, 93 consulate (Edinburgh), 46 Southside, 212–215 Glasgow, 197–198 customs regulations, 14 West End, 208–212 25_577662 bindex.qxd 12/28/04 10:50 AM Page 274

274 INDEX

Wallace, William, 236, 247, Babbity Bowster, 158 253 Z oo, Edinburgh, 88 Bewley’s Hotel, 163 Wallace Monument (Stirling), Brunswick Hotel, 7, 158, 162 247 City Inn, 167 Wallace Tower (Ayr), 236 ACCOMMODATIONS The Corus Hotel, 163 Waterloo Bar (Glasgow), 234 EDINBURGH AND De Vere Cameron House Waterstones (Edinburgh), ENVIRONS (near Balloch), 245 116 Devoncove Hotel, 165–166 A-Haven Townhouse, 55, 61 Waterstones (Glasgow), 220 Drover’s Inn (Inverarnan), Ardmor House, 61 Travelshop 246 The Bank Hotel, 58–59 (Edinburgh), 45 Fairfield House, 239 The Bonham, 7, 52 Waverley Excursions Glenapp Castle (Ballantrae), Borough, 60 (Glasgow), 197–198 244 Burt’s Hotel (Melrose), 138 Waverley Station Hotel, Caledonian Hilton (Edinburgh), 38 159, 162 Edinburgh, 52 Weather, 18 Inn on the Green, 159 The Carlton Hotel, 55, 56–57 Weather forecasts Kelvingrove Hotel, 166 Channings, 53 Edinburgh, 48 Kirkland House, 167 Edinburgh Marriott, 49 Glasgow, 157 Kirklee Hotel, 166 The Edinburgh Residence, 1, Websites Langs, 162 52–53 traveler’s toolbox, 30 Lochgreen House Hotel 41 , 55 visitor information, 11 (Troon), 242–243 4 Forres Street, 55 Wee People’s City (Glasgow), Malin Court Hotel (Turnberry), George Inter-Continental, 53 194 243 , 54 West Bow (Edinburgh), 101 Malmaison, 7, 162 Greenside Hotel, 56 West End (Edinburgh), 42, 43 Manor Park Hotel, 168 Holyrood Hotel, 57–58 accommodations, 59–60 Millennium Hotel Glasgow, The Howard, 7, 53 restaurants, 66–71 162–163 Ibis, 58 West End (Glasgow), 148, Novotel Glasgow, 164 Keavil House Hotel 151–152 One Devonshire Gardens, (Crossford), 142 accommodations, 7, 164–166 Malmaison, 7, 60 164–168 Piersland House Hotel Mansfield House, 56 bars and pubs, 233 (Troon), 243 Old Course Hotel (St. restaurants, 180–182 Premier Lodge, 164 Andrews), 143 sights and attractions, 189, Quality Hotel (Ayr), 239 Old Waverley Hotel, 54 191–192 Quality Hotel Glasgow, Ostlers Close (Cupar), 142 West End Cycles (Glasgow), 163–164 Peat Inn (Cupar), 143 155, 199 Rab Ha’s, 159 Point Hotel, 1, 59 (Glasgow), Radisson SAS, 164 Prestonfield, 59–60 20 Theatre Hotel, 1, 164 Radisson SAS Hotel, 58 West Highland Way, 246 Town House, 166–167 Ramada Mount Royal, 54 West Lothian, 130 Travel Inn, 159 Roxburghe Hotel, 54 Whisky, 261 Tulip Inn, 164 , 57 Whuppity Scourie (Lanark), Westin Turnberry Resort, Seven Danube Street, 19 244 55–56 Willow Tea Rooms The Wickets Hotel, 167 Sheraton Grand Hotel, 7, 59 (Glasgow), 206 16 Lynedoch Place, 60 The Witchery Tours Thrums Hotel, 55, 60 (Edinburgh), 93 Travel Inn, 58 RESTAURANTS Woodlands (Glasgow), Walton Hotel, 56 EDINBURGH AND 151–152 The Witchery by the Castle, Woodside Terrace (Glasgow), ENVIRONS 1, 7, 57 210 Atrium, 8, 66 Woolen knits, Glasgow, 223 The Baked Potato Shop, 70 World Pipe Band Champi- Barioja, 73 onships (Glasgow), 20 ACCOMMODATIONS Bell’s Diner, 71 Writers’ Museum (Edin- GLASGOW AND blue bar café, 69 burgh), 82–83 ENVIRONS The Boathouse (), 132 Albion Hotel, 165 Café Cossachok, 2 Ambassador Hotel, 165 Café Royal, 108 Y ahoo! Mail, 28 Argyll Hotel, 165, 166 Café Royal Oyster Bar, 69 The ArtHouse, 7–8, 163 25_577662 bindex.qxd 12/28/04 10:50 AM Page 275

RESTAURANT INDEX 275

Champany Inn (near Linlith- Restaurant Martin Wishart, The Dhabba, 174 gow), 132 8, 75 Drover’s Inn (Inverarnan), Channings Restaurant, 66–67 Rhubarb, 74 246 Chapters Bistro (Melrose), Rogue, 8, 71 Enterkine House, 239 138 Santini, 8, 68 étain, 8, 177 China China, 70 The Seafood Restaurant Fouter’s Bistro, 239 Clarinda’s Tearoom, 72 (St. Andrews), 143 Fratelli Sarti, 178–179 Cosmo, 67 Spoon, 8, 74 Gamba, 8, 176 Creel Restaurant (Dunbar), Spoon Café, 99 Grassroots Café, 182 135 Sweet Melindas, 74 Harry Ramsden’s, 183 David Bann’s Vegetarian The Tower, 73–74 Ho Wong, 177 Restaurant, 73 Valvona & Crolla Caffe Bar, The Inn at Kippen, 248 Dome Grill Room and Bar, 67 70 Insomnia Underground, 230 Duck’s at Le Marché Noir, 67 Vintner’s Room, 75–76 Konaki, 182 Dusit, 70 Windows Restaurant, 2, 178 La Parmigiana, 181 Favorit, 125 The Witchery by the Castle, Loch Fyne Oyster Bar & Fishers Bistro, 1, 76 72–73 Restaurant (near Clachan), Forth Floor Restaurant, 8, Zinc Bar & Grill, 76 246 67–68 MacCallums of Troon Oyster Gordon’s Trattoria, 125 Bar, 243 The Grain Store, 71–72 RESTAURANTS Malmaison, 177–178 Greywalls (Gullane), GLASGOW AND Monachyle Mhor (Balquhid- 135–136 der), 248 Haldanes Restaurant, 68 ENVIRONS Mono, 175 Henderson’s Salad Table, 71 Air Organic, 180 Mother India, 8, 180–181 Howies, 70, 107 Art Lover’s Café, 183 Mother India’s Café, 181 Kebab Mahal, 75, 102 Ashoka West End, 180 Mussel Inn, 178 La Garrigue, 73 Barnton Bar & Bistro 1901, 183 La Potiniere (Gullane), 136 (Stirling), 247–248 No. Sixteen, 181 Lazio, 125 Bella Napoli, 183 OKO, 174 Le Café St Honoré, 69 Bistro du Sud, 176 Papingo, 178 Livingston’s (Linlithgow), Brel, 9, 212, 233 Prego (Lanark), 249 132–133 Brian Maule at Chardon Rogano, 177 Marque Central, 70–71 d’Or, 175 Schottische, 174 Namaste, 73 The Buttery, 175–176 Spice Gardens, 230 Number One, 66 Café Cossachok, 171 Stravaigin 2, 182 Off the Wall, 72 Café Gandolfi, 8, 175, 203 Stravaigin Café Bar, 9, 182 Old Course Hotel (St. Café Mao, 171, 174 Tchai Ovna, 179 Andrews), 143 Canton Express, 230 Two Fat Ladies, 181–182 Oloroso, 8, 68 China Buffet King, 176 Ubiquitous Chip, 180 Original Kushhi’s, 75 City Merchant, 171 University Café, 176 Palm Court at the Balmoral Corinthian, 174 Wee Curry Shop, 9, 179 Hotel, 72 Creagan House (near Where the Monkey Sleeps, Peat Inn (Cupar), 143 Straheyre), 248 179, 207 Plaisir du Chocolat, 72 De Vere Cameron House Willow Tea Rooms, 179 (near Balloch), 245