ARIES

ISSUE 001 ARIES MASTHEAD CONTENTS

EDITOR IN CHIEF 7 LETTER FROM THE EDITOR Giovanna Osterman

ART DIRECTION & DESIGN 8 IN CONVERSATION WITH Giovanna Osterman LAURA FAMA Calvin Ogden

PHOTOGRAPHY 12 UNDER THE INFLUENCE Giovanna Osterman

SPECIAL THANKS TO 20 I WENT TO THE SUPREME Robert Osterman S/S20 DROP WITH NO ONE Tiffany Webber BUT MY OVARIES Blake Eskin Anjali Khosla Reggie Casagrande 24 THE END—OR EVOLUTION—OF Jack Erwin THE FEMINIST TEE Calvin Ogden Marissa Matozzo 32 WHAT IS A STREETWEAR Nina Avroneva FEMINIST? Tia Nalls Madi Janz Sarah Mai 34 BORROWED FROM THE BOYS Vienna Vernose Daniella Levanti Gabby Olivieri 44 SHE LOOKS LIKE A RIOT Adam Connie Jr. 46 CREDIT WHERE CREDIT IS DUE

48 CONVERSIONS

4 5 LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

On a sunny November morning I had just finished an interview on the Lower East Side, and with an hour to kill before class, meandered into the streetwear consignment hub Round 2. Within one minute of leaving my iced latte on the front windowsill, one of the BAPE-clad male employees slithered over to me and—in a voice several octaves higher than I had just heard him using with his coworkers—proceeded to lay out every inch of the store as if he were speaking to a child. “So, all of this is consignment...over here is the Supreme, that’s North Face over there, sneakers are all along this wall…” My brain recoiled—was I being mansplained to? About streetwear? I could feel my years of obsession, journal- ism, and credit history melt straight into his grubby 350s.

“Just so you know,” he added as I half-smiled and reached for a pair of Air Maxes, “it’s all in men’s sizing.”

“Thanks,” I replied, “I’ve been here before.” And I had, count- less times. But, I suddenly realized, I had never been there alone. Whether through my sneakerhead uncle, graphic tee-collecting dad, SSENSE-scouring boyfriend, or mall-crawling group of male friends, I have moved through the streetwear space within a cloak of masculinity. Without that cloak, wearing a blazer and hire-me trousers, I was very clearly the Other.

After five minutes of thumbing through the racks—aware of the same employee greeting incoming male customers with nothing but head nods, aware that I was wearing zero streetwear, aware of the surveillance I was moving under—I left.

I have been consuming, shopping, and wearing streetwear since I could first hand my own debit card over the counter of Unde- feated on Melrose. But after reflection, I’ve come to terms with the fact that most of my streetwear exploration has been at the heels of a male figure. I’m not ungrateful for the cloak, I just never confronted its presence until I ventured into an overblown thrift store without it.

So here we are, in Aries. Aries, the first of the Zodiac. Aries, the symbol of leadership, of innovation, of inspiration, of courage. The symbol of fresh starts. A safe space for education, congre- gation, celebration. A platform to recognize the womxn who are propelling streetwear today, and the womxn who have always been there, peeking from the shadows. A place for the creatives, designers, skaters, trendsetters, resellers, shoppers, and lovers of an industry that has long turned its back on them. A space for us, to grow. Together.

6 7 IN CONVERSATION WITH The Dimepiece co-founder talks streetwear, sustainability, and LAURA FAMA (almost) getting sued by In-N-Out

It’s been 13 years since Laura Did your early personal Fama and Ashley Jones launched style involve streetwear? Dimepiece LA from a bedroom. In Growing up, especially in those 13 years a passion project, LA, did you immerse your- fueled by the duo’s confidence self in that? and cultural know-how, catapult- ed to the throne of Los Angeles Yeah, especially sneakers and streetwear—all while waving the vintage clothing, that was such a feminist flag like few had done heavy part of our dynamic. Every before. “Ain’t No Wifey” beanies, generation was our generation, “Control the Guns, Not Women’s we were mixing the ‘70s, the Bodies” tees, and “Pussy Pwr” ‘80s, the ‘90s. It became this fem- crewnecks dominated Instagram inine-masculine streetwear sub- feeds and street style shots alike, culture. I think that’s still happen- gracing the decade’s sartorial ing now. It’s ‘choose what style upper echelon from Missy Elliot you want,’ whether it’s vintage or to Kylie Jenner. As of 2019, the streetwear. I think men or women femme-forward empire is now are kind of choosing both. just a Fairfax memory. Fama, 33, moved from Los Angeles to Ma- Definitely. Especially with vintage, I feel like there’s drid, and launched travel and well- less of a gender binary. ness site Her Why with an array You just go through the of her own empowerment-centric racks, there’s no distinc- designs. Taking a well-deserved tion of ‘This is a women’s break from over a decade in the or a men’s T-shirt.’ streetwear space, Fama is diving head-first into her side passions— Yeah, yeah. Back then it was a guided by the unapologetic Dime- very exciting time because we piece DNA of her past. were just making our own rules, you know? I used to sew my own What’s your first memory clothes—I went to [FIDM], so I with streetwear culture? kind of had that fuel under my ass. My style in particular was always The whole streetwear culture was a mixture of every genre, but I was in Los Angeles when we were really inspired by hip hop culture, very immersed in what was hap- punk culture, and female hip hop pening on Fairfax. We were very artists. Really around music and much immersed in the streetwear art, and being able to speak for on that block. Me and my busi- that generation during that time. ness partner Ashley, we were part of this party crew of friends, just Did you face any doubt getting together around the music when you guys were first and art scene of LA.

PHOTO COURTESY OF LAURA 8 FAMA 9 starting in the industry? needed to be said, then we just Do you think women I agree with you. I think did it. It was definitely our activism are underrepresented in the future lies within wom- At first it was good because we through clothing. streetwear? en being in leadership had absolutely no business back- positions. Whether that’s ground, we were both still in col- Was the Dimepiece demo- I think women are misrepresented in marketing, or creating lines, or taking the helm lege at the time. We definitely had graphic mostly female? in streetwear, it’s always been kind of existing brands, I think doubts, but we were also just so of a guy’s club. I mean, there’s so with fashion—and every many women that have paved the hungry. All these other brands that It fluctuated based on the trends, industry—women don’t get were out, like XLarge and Stussy, but I think into our eighth year it way. I think a majority of the time equality until women are were dope, The Hundreds was became very unisex. But a major- there is a lack of representation put in charge. trying to do a female line. So we ity of the time it was female cus- because...I don’t know, I think it’s were inspired by just being like tomers, between 16 to 35. kind of ballsy to start a line. Yeah. I mean it’s sad, because ‘Oh my God, if these guys can women are completely dissected, do it, we totally can do it. It’s just What lessons did you have How do you see the fe- not like men are. I feel like wom- printed T-shirts.’ to learn the hard way as a male or non-binary pres- en have to just bite the bullet and ence in streetwear evolv- female creative in street- have to keep going. I don’t know, ing? Did you ever feel intimidat- wear? as far as every industry, I think ev- One of my biggest regrets is not ed by those other brands, erything is going to be affected. having the financial education There’s still so many male design- or were you just focused I don’t think it’s just going to be I needed at such a young age. I ers that are designing for women, on your own path? fashion. didn’t have a mentor or business which is crazy. With everything that’s happening with the environ- We were very hyper-focused. Ob- advisor at the time where we were Especially with sustain- viously we would look at trends, making a lot of money, and I wish I ment, how a lot of the markets are ability. I think sustainability but we were starting out as kids had a better success team. A bet- failing and crashing, I’m not sure should be at the forefront just having fun. We really weren’t ter lawyer, a better accountant, all what’s going to happen. of where every industry thinking this would be a 10-year these things that I feel like wom- is going, and that’s going career. We didn’t even make any en need in general for business. I Yeah, a lot of the ma- to carry into ‘How can we profit until after the fifth year, we didn’t have those resources when jor streetwear brands also be more inclusive of were pretty much broke. We were I was 25. We were just having are very not transparent people who are underrep- living with our parents, we were fun, partying, travelling the world, about their policies and resented?’ Everyone is so how sustainable (or not struggling, but we kept going and and making all this money. We did desperate to find answers sustainable)they are, and right now, so hopefully going and going. one collection, kind of mocking In- I feel like that’s going to that will open up the floor. N-Out, it said ‘Eat-Me-Out.’ Kylie catch up to them. Was there any fear of be- Jenner wore it when she was like Yeah. I think that everything has ing pigeonholed as a 17, and we basically had to take I think this whole facade of cul- been ruled around that male en- “girls-only” brand or an the whole collection down. It was ture and fashion is slowly crum- ergy, and it’s tipping over into the activist brand, because a huge drama. you had the blatantly femi- bling. It’s about time, because of feminine energy of caring and nur- all the waste and excessive use. I turing and healing. I think that’s nist tees? Wait, what?! I remember mean, fashion is always going to kind of where human evolution that drop! I feel like that was our niche, that be around, but I think there’s go- will go towards. I’ve been in the ing to be a better way to do it. It’s was something we wanted to talk Yeah, it was this huge collection fashion industry for so long, I think always desirable to have a design- about. It always worked, it always and we had to take it down be- I just want to sit back and admire er bag, a designer product. But I started a dialogue, so we kind of cause In-N-Out was like ‘Okay, it. I definitely do not want to work feel like people are going to be ran with it. We didn’t care what we’re gonna sue you guys.’ So it inside of it anymore. buying, like, one nice thing every the repercussions were. It was was a huge, huge loss in the busi- three years, instead of every other just whatever was on our minds, ness. But it was definitely a lesson day. But I don’t know, what do you whatever was something that learned. think?

10 11 UNDER THE INFLUENCE

eight influencers talk style, sexism, and shattering the box-logoed glass ceiling

12 13 VIOLETTE VAN DE VONDEL, 29 DANI BUCK, 33

Describe your style in one sentence. Describe your style in one sentence. My style would be comfy-minimal-sporty-chic. Generally, I would say that my style is a mix between streetwear/skate brands and high-fashion pieces. Who do you look to for inspiration? I have some people that I look up to on Instagram, but it’s not that I want to dress like them or take the same pictures What’s the gender breakdown of they do. I just look up to the vibe. I also really look up to my parents ‘90s style, I wear so much old your closet? stuff they used to wear. They’re a big inspiration I think it is 80% mens and 20% womens styles, for me. predominantly consisting of pants.

What’s your biggest creative or ca- What’s your biggest creative or reer milestone so far? career milestone so far? I’ve had so many milestones in so many different Objectively I would say my success as a DJ, my ways. I think what makes me happiest is that I have Instagram or my current partnership a job I really love doing, a soon to be husband that with Nike are milestones for me. Personally, I feel (not kidding) is the one for me, and a wonderful successful whenever I have the feeling that family that I love so much. I’ve helped someone with what I do. It feels great if young people write me that I encourage How do you stay creative when them to be themselves. most streetwear isn’t available in womxn’s sizes? I don’t mind buying men’s sizing, it mostly fits bet- What is the most meaningful item in ter for me. The kind of clothes you wear doesn’t your wardrobe? slow your creativity. It’s the way you present them I think my Supreme x piece. It was so that makes it creative! You can wear a garbage bag rare, since it was one of the first item and make it look nice. I think it’s all in the attitude. where streetwear merged with a luxury brand.

What is the most meaningful item in Does being a womxn help you or your wardrobe? hurt you as a streetwear influencer? The knit I was wearing when my boyfriend asked Both I guess. Due to my androgynous approach, I me to get married and the clothes I have from my still belong to a minority when it comes to parents are sacred! streetwear. People have difficulties categorizing me, but this also makes me unique. Who’s currently on your radar? At the moment @sportyandrich, @jacquemus, and @tea_you are some brands that really have my attention. I had many female followers at first, but this is shifting now. I hope people will be more open regarding different concepts. Any advice for womxn trying to make it as an influencer in the streetwear space? Don’t try too hard, just be you, and as I said before: find your own vibe. And, so cliché, but believe in yourself. Most Any advice for womxn trying to make it as an influencer in the streetwear space? importantly: surround yourself with good friends that support you and love you. Find out what you really like, try to avoid getting distracted by hype. It’s about finding your own style eventually.

@VIOLETTEVDVONDEL @WIDEAWAKEARTHQUAKE 14 15 AMANDA DE MIRANDA, 19 MELINA SCHUMITZ, 18

Describe your style in one sentence. Describe your style in one sentence. Streetwear chic & adaptable. My style is minimalistic and unisex.

Who do you look to for inspiration? What’s the gender breakdown of your closet? I don’t necessarily “look” for inspiration, but I follow some pages on Instagram who share amazing fits from others, Most items in my closet are from the men’s section, because I don’t like the fit of some items in the women’s. In such as @compoundcommunity, @phrettypresh, @ addition, it’s difficult to find streetwear for women. moorelooks, @peerlessmagazine and @everything. littt How do you stay creative when What’s the gender breakdown of most streetwear isn’t available in your closet? womxn’s sizes? I would say mostly men’s, a lot of pieces in my clos- It’s really frustrating to go to the men’s section and et are actually from the men’s department. I love to even the smallest size is too big for you. Besides wear some unique pants with a cute girly top or an that, you have to deal with people staring at you oversized printed top. just because you’re a female in the “wrong” sec- What’s your biggest creative or tion. So my tip is to take clothes to the tailoring career milestone so far? shop or do some DIY stuff with it. For now I think that would be being featured by pages such as @hypebae, @hypebaebeauty and What is the most meaningful item in @telfar, and being noticed by Heron Preston. your wardrobe? I think it’s my Yeezy Season 6 sweater. Not be- How do you stay creative when cause it’s a big brand, but because I bought it while most streetwear isn’t available in I visited for the first time with some friends. womxn’s sizes? It’s like a little memory when I wear it. If I really like something and there aren’t any wom- en’s sizes, I don’t mind going for an oversized look. Does being a womxn help you or hurt you as a streetwear influencer? What is the most meaningful item in I recognize that streetwear is dominated by men, to your wardrobe? Anything that I have made myself. Everything is a be honest. Just look at repost pages on Instagram. 1 of 1 and made by hand, which means that only I You see many men with great style, but there are have it, and I think that’s something I could be really women who dress well too and don’t get reposted. proud of. For some reason there is still a difference, which I don’t understand. Does being a womxn help you or hurt you as a streetwear influencer? Any advice for womxn trying to make it as an influencer in the streetwear space? Definitely helped, since I’m growing and growing and haven’t had any negativity or hurt passed towards me. Keep doing the things you love! Don’t let other people decide what you have to wear. Wear that oversized shirt, put Any advice for womxn trying to make it as an influencer in the streetwear space? on a baseball hat, and feel free to flex. Women can do anything! Stay authentic, consistent and don’t compare yourself to others!

@AMNDADM @MELINA.SMZ 16 17 ALANKA KRAJEWSKI, 21 NEIDE KHAN, 29

Describe your style in one sentence. Describe your style in one sentence. A mix of modern minimalistic, neutral coloured, and grungy pieces with a focus on angularity. This is so hard to describe in one sentence, but I would say relaxed-fitted.

What’s the gender breakdown of your closet? What’s the gender breakdown of your closet? It definitely consists mainly of men’s clothes. Even when I’m shopping, the first place I go to is the men’s section. That’s a bit difficult, I would say tomboy but girly at the same time. I find that there’s just more versatility to the piec- How do you stay creative when es, and they’re more gender-neutral than women’s most streetwear isn’t available in clothing. womxn’s sizes? I always try to stay positive when I am shopping. How do you stay creative when most streetwear isn’t available in Most of the time, when I want something, I don’t womxn’s sizes? care if it’s men’s or women’s. I think just making the best out of an oversized piece is the best way to go. I’m pretty small (only What is the most meaningful item in 5’1”), so most menswear is quite large on me, but your wardrobe? I’ve learnt to embrace the oversized look and it’s That’s always a tough one to answer. Probably my now become my go-to style. Yeezy 700 OG. But also my Supreme bag, since I was waiting in line for almost two hours in New What is the most meaningful item in York City—something I will never do again! your wardrobe? I’ve been into the oversized blazer trend for a few Who’s currently on your radar? years now, so I’ve got to say my most meaningful I think @bbygirl.sham is an inspiration, and of piece is probably one of my dads’ favourite blazers course my boyfriend @timmyvanilli. I think Palm that I stole from his closet. It’s so oversized and it allows me to create the wildest outfits. Angels, Yeezy, and Heron Preston are one of my favorite brands at the moment. Does being a womxn help you or hurt you as a streetwear influencer? Does being a womxn help you or I think it’s a source of empowerment for me, be- hurt you as a streetwear influencer? cause it allows womxn to showcase their creativity Neither really, because I don’t see myself as an in- even more—by having limited pieces to work from fluencer. I just love to dress up, and if I can help and create interesting looks from. people that way, that’s great.

Any advice for womxn trying to Any advice for womxn trying to make it as an influencer in the streetwear space? Be creative with clothes that are made for either gender, and embrace androgyny. Don’t be scared to wear clothes make it as an influencer in the streetwear space? that others might not understand, remember always to push boundaries, and just have fun. Just don’t forget to stay yourself.

@ALANKA_K @BAE0NKICKS 18 19 Since the Soho store hired its first 1:11PM Spent 30 minutes at I WENT TO THE security guards in 2002, the Su- work Googling “How to shop a Su- preme drop remains the most deli- preme drop.” I’ve made a list: one ciously elusive spectacle known to cow print velvet jacket, two T-shirts, a SUPREME S/S20 hypebeast. Akin to baking sourdough cap and T-shirt for my boyfriend. How or winning the lottery, nabbing a early am I supposed to get there?? spot in the coveted Thursday line is DROP WITH NO ONE BUT shrouded in rumors, and more ques- tions than answers. Paying your dues 1:46PM One 6-train-Macrobar on the sidewalk of Lafayette for a box later, I have arrived! The line snakes MY OVARIES logo tee is heralded as a ritual, rite around the corner, from Bowery to of passage, and gathering place for Elizabeth. I show the nearest guard the most die-hard of streetwear fans. my text, and he points me around the And, from what I’ve gathered in my corner to the end of the line. Everyone year-plus covering the community, it’s is male. Everyone. Everyone I see in a total sausage fest. line, everyone ogling at the line, and everyone departing with bags. I set out to attend a Supreme drop, alone, with zero knowledge of how 1:50PM A comically stoic guard to make it happen. Even my most checks my text, ID, and credit card, street-savvy of friends had no idea consults his clipboard, then scrawls how to plant oneself in the pilgrim- “184” on my hand with a Sharpie. At age—and they definitely had no idea this point I realize that my text in no how, one sketchy email list and an way meant that I was number 184 to embarrassing amount of how-tos lat- get inside the store, and I probably er, I was christened customer num- should have eaten more than an al- ber 184 for Supreme’s very first drop mond butter Macrobar. of the Spring/Summer 2020 season.

PM One of the guards strolls Twenty-four hours after receiving the 1:57 along the line, repeating to no one cryptic confirmation text, I found my- “everyone in this line needs to have self at a Supreme drop. Alone. No a number.” When he gets to me he Airpods, no friends, no crutch of mas- stops, points directly at me, and asks culinity. Just me, my Notes app, and “do you have a number?” Guess my debilitating introversion scream- what, knockoff The Rock? I do! ing from every cell in my body. What follows is the time-stamped conver- sation I had with my journal around 2:12PM The line is moving for the sights, smells, and sounds of a the first time, and a female(!) guard Supreme drop, from—spoiler alert— just told me to move up. the only woman present.

2:23PM It’s dead silent. All the 7:55PM Up without hitting fist-bumping, story-swapping cama- snooze. I spent considerable time raderie that I always assumed blos- (and texts) crafting the perfect I’m- somed in a drop line seems to be not-trying-too-hard-I-swear look last happening across the street, where night, but the ensemble goes through people who have already shopped three iterations before I finally get out wait for their friends. Some of them the door. I settle on an Oak + Fort complain of dead phone batteries. coat, Palace hoodie, vintage trou- Two men holding Supreme x Numark sers, Nike Air Max 96’s, and a Noah turntables compare parking garage bucket hat.

20 21 receipts, then swap Instagrams. guard lifts the rope, and I’m shuffled through the doors and directly into a long line leading to the cash register. 2:37PM We’re herded around Mary J. Blige is blasting, but at this the corner onto Spring, into the sec- point in the journey nothing could sur- ond half of the line. A guard separates prise me. An employee approaches a mother from her teenage son, who me and asks what I want. I tell him. couldn’t be older than fifteen, be- There’s no browsing, no trying on. cause her hand isn’t stamped. A boy He returns less than five minutes lat- leaning against the cement wall cat- er with everything but a black Tupac calls me, then sneaks into the moving T-shirt—one of the most hotly antici- line where his friends are waiting for pated, therefore hotly resold, items— him with a Sharpie. instead presenting me with every col- or they have left. 2:54PM Another clipboard sweep. Catcaller was kicked out PM I have all my stuff. I’ve when he showed his haphazard 4:34 lowered my screen brightness and Sharpie work but failed to produce checked my Wells Fargo app for a text. The boy who was separated the tenth and final time. Some peo- from his mom also got booted, be- ple behind me have IKEA-sized bags cause the credit card he registered overflowing with accessories and with had his mom’s name and not his. garments. Some are handing paper Minutes later, he had to let his mom lists to employees. The man in front take his place in line with nothing but of me, one of the two bragging about screenshots of his shopping list. precautionary bank transfers, is rung up for 1,627 dollars. 3:23PM Almost two hours in and I’m...miserable? If I wasn’t wear- PM 397 dollars and almost ing two layers of Heattech I would’ve 4:47 exactly three hours later, I’m done. bailed by now. The group in front of My legs and feet are numb from the me is growing more douchey with cold and the standing. My lifelong every shuffle. One of them refresh- perception of the drop is shattered, es Grailed while the other handles while the words “cop,” “plug,” and StockX, declaring the skyrocketing “retail” echo in my head instead. resale prices with a high five. Two of Aside from the security guard who them brag about how much money barked at me to move, I have not they’ve transferred to their checking encountered a single woman in the accounts in preparation. past three hours. My only verbal ac- knowledgement from anyone in line 3:41PM A guard just announced was a catcall. As I numbly walk down that a customer was robbed earlier, the stairs onto Bowery, the bouncer and warned us to hide our bags upon scoffs at me and said “Have a nice leaving. Peeking over the six-foot sea night, I hope you get very rich.” of Carhartt beanies, I think they’re letting in...three people at a time?! “It’s all for me,” I reply, “but thanks.”

4:21PM I’m at the front of the line, and I’m realizing how much the crowd’s body heat shielded me from how freezing it actually is. A voice from in the store yells “three,” the

22 23 Walking through the front doors of speaks for itself.” Wildfang’s SoHo store puts you di- rectly in eye contact with a shrine Backlash and blurred trademark lines of “Wild Feminist” garments, from aside, Forever 21 was simply pan- fleece hoodies to fanny packs. Float- dering to fashion’s new infatuation: ing above it all is the original: a black feminism. According to the Business cotton T-shirt with “Wild Feminist” of Fashion, appearance of the word sprawled across the chest in white. “feminist” increased more than 600 The T-shirt is one of the calling cards percent across fashion retailer home- of Wildfang, a queer-owned indepen- pages and newsletters from 2016 dent brand founded in 2013. It has to 2018. Slathering empowerment been photographed on celebrities across sweatshirts and deodorant from Ellen Page to Kate Mara, and campaigns alike grew so frequent, ten percent of the $40 price tag goes it earned a name: femvertising. The to a rotating monthly charity. And in term first sprouted in 2015 from dig- August 2017, it was ripped off. ital media firm SHE Media, who de- THE END fined it as “advertising that employs On August 18, 2017, Wildfang CEO pro-female talent, messages, and im- and designer Emma Mcilroy received agery to empower women and girls.” a screenshot of a Forever 21 “Wild According to SHE Media, femver- Feminist” tee. Color difference aside, tising works—52 percent of female the T-shirt was identical in appear- consumers reported purchasing a ance. However, with a $10.90 price, product because they liked how the 95 percent rayon makeup, and zero brand portrayed women. OR EVOLUTION­­ proceeds going to charity, the two garments could not be more differ- However, femvertising can easily ent. Wildfang filed for a trademark on shift from uplifting to exploitative in “Wild Feminist” less than a year ear- the wrong hands. lier, according to Justia. The trade- mark was still pending when its fast Two months after Forever 21 pulled fashion lookalike went live. the “Wild Feminist” T-shirt from their OF THE FEMINIST TEE website, Wildfang’s trademark on Those who bought the $10.90 dupe the phrase was approved. Over two may have never heard of Wildfang. years later, it continues to embody They may not know that in 2016, the brand’s inclusive DNA. Accord- the Los Angeles Times reported that ing to Wildfang’s website, the brand California women producing Forever has donated over $75,000 to women In the face of femvertising, what does authentic feminism in fashion look like? 21’s feminist T-shirts earn less than and human rights-based charities in four dollars an hour. They may not 2017, including Planned Parenthood know that the fast fashion giant has and the ACLU. been sued multiple times for copying designs from independent brands. “There’s definitely another level of appreciation when it’s coming from Forever 21, on the other hand, a brand like Wildfang that I know is knows. “When I worked [at Forev- actually backing it up, it’s not just a er 21] in high school, there were so T-shirt,” said Hannah Cassin, who many things that had to be sent back has worked at Wildfang as an intern, to HQ because they were being sued then sales associate, since 2017. “I for ripping off another style,” said don’t have any bad feelings towards Hector Delion, sales associate at Forever 21. If someone sees that, and Wildfang since October 2019. “For- that’s their price point, and they want ever 21 is bankrupt now, I think that to wear it, it’s cool that that’s an op-

24 25 tion for them.” While low prices and ing on these kinds of social trends, mass accessibility make fast fashion and not really making a commitment some consumers’ only option, direct to them, but using them as part of dupes redirect profits away from the their marketing.” smaller originators. “It’s frustrating, “ because obviously Forever 21 has The industry may have commitment such a broad reach and Wildfang is issues, but their consumers don’t. [Fashion] is an industry that’s very prone to comparatively niche,” Cassin added. According to Business of Fashion, jumping on these kinds of social trends, and nine in ten Gen-Z consumers believe not really making a commitment to them. The whiplash of femvertising could companies have a responsibility to be subtle, like Dior’s internet-break- address environmental and social is- ing “We Should All Be Feminists” sues. Together, Gen-Z and millennial “ T-shirt. Dior is designed by Maria consumers represent $350 billion of Grazia Chiuri, but owned by LVMH, spending power in the . a conglomerate with only two women Brands scramble into the bandwag- on it’s ten-member executive board. ons of social movements, manifesting Framed by a haute couture collec- them in rainbow flags, “You Go Girl” tion, where gowns ring in at six fig- ads, or “sustainable” collections, just ures, the $710 cotton T-shirt was a to stay afloat in the internet genera- statement for only the one percent. tion. Knowing if these promises ring Femvertising marched in the Chanel true is up to the consumers—who, Spring/Summer 2015 show, in which for the most part, are paying atten- Karl Lagerfeld staged a feminist pro- tion. test finale, but six years earlier said “I was never a feminist because I was “My generation was super strong in never ugly enough for that.” Femver- feminism, we were demonstrating in tising is American Apparel’s 2013 the ‘70s and we were complaining “Period Power” T-shirt that celebrat- and bitching. Something happened ed female anatomy, while CEO Dov with your generation, where you guys Charney was swinging his own to- began to put your money where your wards unconsenting female employ- mouths are,” said Marcie Cooper- ees—leading to his removal less than man, professor of Fashion Marketing a year later. at Parsons School of Design. “You did something we didn’t do. We nev- But why is feminism now being ex- er told companies, ‘We’re not going ploited to this degree within fashion, to buy from you if you don’t pay atten- an industry that women have funded tion to us.’” since the first hoopskirt? The answer lies within a timeline, somewhere be- At 65 years old, Cooperman is a tween President Trump saying “Grab Baby Boomer. While each generation them by the pussy” and millions of has carried its own set of consumer- women saying “Me too.” The human- ist concerns, from anti-sweatshop ization of an entire gender has long to pro-sustainability, the mid-aughts been something up for debate, but smartphone boom handed Gen-Z as the endangered spoke up, fashion an entirely new method of sticking “ eavesdropped. to their beliefs. According to McK- Something happened with your insey&Company, the search for truth generation, where you guys began to “The fashion industry is very trend is at the root of all Gen-Z’s behav- put your money where your mouths are. driven, just as part of its business ior—and shopping is no exception. model,” said Elizabeth Segran, fash- ion journalist at Fast Company. “It’s “Older consumers were not used to an industry that’s very prone to jump- comparing products and comparing “

26 27 brands. Instinctively, I think younger Cozette Gonzales. Syeda Sonda, a Without a physical store, Pussyweed Bulletin emerged from yet another consumers are able to do that kind of Bangladeshi immigrant, was hired as has constructed a digital haven with chrysalis in September, when they research,” said Segran. “They’re just second production head, and now over 37,000 Instagram followers. addressed an ever-growing waitlist inherently more prone to ask ques- spearheads her own team of women Their account, controlled by Przed- of brands by announcing a digital tions in a way that older generations in Queens. Each of the now-forty bag borski, is peppered with product wholesale marketplace. Brands ap- aren’t.” makers works from home and sets shots, cannabis news, and event ply on the company’s website, but her own hours, according to Gon- announcements. As the Pussyweed instead of crossing their fingers for a Cozette Gonzales, a marketing stu- zales. As Susan Alexandra grows in community continues to grow, the few inches of shelf space, they are dent at Pace University and studio the industry, from Vogue write-ups to brand is evolving as rapidly as fem- introduced to retailers across the manager of accessories brand Susan Gigi Hadid Instagram cameos, keep- inism itself. “As we educated our- country who can buy their products Alexandra, combines her marketing ing a women-only team has shifted selves more, and realized we wanted wholesale. Retailers on the market- education with Gen-Z tendencies to from coincidental to integral. to be as inclusive as possible, we place can filter brands with tags like be a consciously feminist consumer. now actively watch out to not use “Female-Founded,” “Charitable,” “There’s always a sense of me being “Every woman is so talented no mat- the word ‘female,’” said Przedborski. and “Minority-Owned.” The platform skeptical, because of the very nature ter where you go, no matter where “We are dealing with the fact that our widened Bulletin’s scope, from a re- that people do abuse feminism, peo- we source, we can always find a logo is a pussy—but, like, what does tail hub to a full-blown tech company. ple do abuse women,” she said. “I’m woman-owned team,” said Gonza- a pussy mean?” always like ‘Okay, we need to look up les. “We just need dedicated people, “ “Through this platform, these fe- who [this brand] is owned by.’” and if they’re women, they’re wom- We’re a With a backup Instagram account male-founded, female-centric brands en. And I really think they will be. It’s female-founded and calendar of workshops at the are now being connected to retailers The new generations of shoppers our core.” ready, the construction of a safe that were previously out of reach for are putting their $350 billion where company, and space is never done. “If you’re titling them. It’s always been about creating their mouths are, with brands’ clos- By Constructing a Safe we’re coming yourself feminist, you’re actively em- that financial agency for our brands,” eted skeletons just a few iPhone taps Space of age during a barking in an activist space,” said Hodes said. “Feminism is helping away. But as corporate heavyweights Przedborski. each other, feminism is lifting each arm themselves with savvy market- In 2016, then-Barnard student Nata- time where other up, and giving each other op- ers, pulling back the femvertised cur- sha Przedborski received a text from the President By Lifting Other Brands Up portunities to rise and grow and pros- tain isn’t quite as simple. a friend, asking where she could buy of the United per.” marijuana as she was scared of her For retail-wholesale hub Bulletin, In the face of corporate giants and male dealer. Przedborski, with her States is feminism means giving female en- While shifting towards wholesale callout culture, how can a fashion roommate Ava Kingsley and friend literally physically trepreneurs a platform. Founded by has shrunk Bulletin’s physical pres- brand be authentically feminist? Hannah Campbell, realized the lack of Ali Kriegsman and Alana Branston in ence to one Nolita store, it serves as female safe spaces in the male-dom- assaulting 2015, the first Bulletin retail model a petri dish for blossoming brands By Keeping Women Be- inated cannabis world. They set to women and rented its shelf space to independent to test the retail waters. Shoppers hind the Scenes build one, and Pussyweed was born. getting away female-founded brands. Through can touch anything from a Queer many rebirths, Bulletin remains root- Eye votive candle to a bullet vibra- Feminism grows from the ground up, The conversation grew into a col- with it ed in the promise of opening doors tor, in the glow of pink neon and an according to City-based lective, as Pussyweed’s circle of for female creators. Ariana Grande-heavy soundtrack. Susan Alexandra. The saccharine smokers grew in diversity and num- Ten percent of in-store proceeds are beaded bags that catapulted to Ins- bers. Their eye-grabbing logo made “We’re a female-founded compa- donated to Planned Parenthood in ta-fame were inspired by an age-old its way onto products through tri- “ ny, and we’re coming of age during —totalling $43,000 as Chinese hobby, which Susan Korn al and error, from T-shirts and tote a time where the President of the of 2017, according to the New York stumbled upon one day in a China- bags to grinders, and soon brought United States is literally physically Times. town storefront. Instead of taking the the brand to pop-ups—in which the assaulting women and getting away shop owner’s craft and running, Korn three co-founders were often the only with it,” said Rachel Hodes, commu- By Eliminating Gender Al- hired her—Lisa Deng is now head of women. nity manager. “We were like, ‘Instead together production. of being really down in the dumps and “[Pussyweed] began as just a space depressed, why don’t we channel New York City-based brand The Se- As orders skyrocketed, the Susan for women. Now it’s, how do you this energy into something that can ries garnered a cult following by for- Alexandra team expanded. Some make in this space of women, a help other women, and make them going sartorial gender completely. bags take up to 24 hours to bead by new generation of advocates?” said feel strong and empowered, despite After recovering from an eating disor- hand, according to studio manager Przedborski. these terrible circumstances?’” der and catching her past symptoms

28 29 in fast fashion advertisements, Ella alarming and borderline dystopian, Wiznia began shopping exclusively but almost understandable. A man second-hand, learning textile manip- who earns a full wage and has likely ulation by tailoring vintage garments never clenched his keys between his on herself. By 2016, The Series had knuckles, scrolling past ad upon ad grown past Wiznia’s own wardrobe starring female empowerment, has into a full-blown brand, through vin- little reason to think that women still tage hauls and countless rounds of earn 79 cents for his dollar. her friends trying on prototypes. Ev- ery garment in the line is seasonless, Male ignorance aside, the issue with genderless, and made entirely from femvertized garments may be in their recycled materials. language. Garments with cis-norma- tive language reject the intersection- “I’m not saying that my clothing is go- al reality of feminism, using phrases ing to fit everyone, or that it’s going to that assume the pronouns or gender fit a woman the same way it fits a bi- identity of those purchasing them. ological male,” said Wiznia. “I’m not “If [a shirt] said something like ‘Girl designing this for a man or a woman, Boss,’ or whatever one of the fem- there’s no gender in mind when I’m inist-ish statement shirts are, then it creating a piece.” feels like: ‘I’m looking for a very spe- cific group of people to connect with, The genderless pieces include flo- and I have this preconceived notion ral frocks, crochet tops, and patch- of who’s going to get this, and who work puffer jackets made of sleeping I’m trying to talk with,’” said Wiznia, bags. “Androgynous brands always “Because I do think that clothing is a seem to tend towards masculine,” language.” said Wiznia. “It’ll be collared shirts and button downs and straight leg However, while intersectional fem- pants and everything, but all I want to inism progresses thanks to Gen-Z do is get a guy in a dress.” wallets, brands keeping an exploit- ative grip on femvertising may one As for whether or not The Series is a day be a minority. “At some point feminist brand, Wiznia doesn’t have soon, it’s not going to be notable a clear answer—but she isn’t really for a brand to claim to be feminist. looking for one. “When I think ‘femi- I think those are just going to be ta- nist,’ I think the definition feels almost ble stakes,” said Segran. “If a brand limiting,” she said. “There is no gen- is obviously not feminist, or there’s der, every gender is equal, nothing is some sort of reporting about how it’s better than, it’s all great.” not treating women well, that will be a scandal.” While independent, feminist-identi- fying brands continue to construct an authentic path, fashion giants le- veraging hollow feminism continue to chip away at the movement itself. Smoke-and-mirrors feminism not only cheapens the fight for equality to the price of a polyblend T-shirt, it eras- es the fight altogether. A 2017 Ipsos study found that nearly 60 percent of men believe that gender equality PHOTOS COURTESY OF SARAH MAI has been achieved. This number is ILLUSTRATIONS BY GIOVANNA OSTERMAN

30 31 this title mean to you? they can make their own rules. WHAT IS A STREETWEAR FEMINIST? I’m passionate about women’s The 2019 Hypebeast 100 Just ask Reggie Casagrande, the NYC-bred marketing exec with equality in all facets, but particu- featured only 29 women— enough street cred for two lifetimes larly in streetwear because wom- just three more than 2018. Is the lack of representa- Reggie Casagrande is the chief Did your early style involve en were systematically pushed tion in streetwear culture streetwear? out. Investment came to the male marketing officer at MC2000, a a reflection of the lack designers and founders because Los Angeles consulting firm that of women in executive they were commercially viable. connects brands with influencers. Yes, it did. Streetwear is informed roles? She has a byline in Business of by American workwear and vin- That turned them into juggernauts like Bape, Undefeated, Stussy, Fashion, as well as seven years at tage, sport style and hip hop. So Yes, to a certain extent. It also has etc. I’m very deliberate in hiring the marketing helm of both Con- those early days, I wore Dickies to do with which MAN is curating and mentoring women when I verse and Adidas. But, above all, and Carhartt. I shopped at Patri- the list, which MAN runs the me- can, because someone has to she is a streetwear feminist. It’s cia Field on 8th street for my club dia platform and which MAN owns create the opportunity to build the not a title to be taken lightly, with- looks. Gucci hats, gold chains, the brand. You get the picture. in an industry that has historical- wife beaters. I wore Puma Clydes “ next generation. I was always the ly prioritized the male executive, when they came out, and baby T’s They see them- only woman at the table—it never As a woman in the street- wunderkind, and shoe size alike. by XGIRL. XLarge was my first selves as skate felt weird because I could speak wear industry, both as an paying client, so I wore a lot of the language, but it was unfortu- But with nearly three decades brands, and executive and a consum- of experience navigating the cul- their stuff. It was a high-low mix, nate that women weren’t equally er, how often do you find ture, speaking the language, and which is what I still wear today. they don’t want represented in the business of yourself in male-dominat- pulling up a chair with the indus- to make streetwear. Luckily, streetwear is ed spaces? try’s biggest players, it’s one that How did you pivot your ca- women’s prod- slowly changing as brands realize Casagrande has rightfully earned. reer towards streetwear? the commercial potential of the fe- I don’t think of spaces or expe- ucts. If women male consumer. riences as male or female. If it’s What is your first memory I started in streetwear long before buy it, they are cool and innovative, it will reso- with streetwear? I even had a career. I was taking fine with that, Women are increasingly nate with everyone. pictures and casting influenc- but they don’t taking up space in street- My favorite memory was proba- ers for fashion magazines in the want to wear, yet some of the How do you see the fe- most influential brands male/non-binary pres- bly my days as a club promoter in 90’s. The fact that I came from communicate New York City in the ‘90s, when the “culture” only enhanced my like Supreme and Palace ence in streetwear evolv- still lack female sizing in street culture was transitioning knowledge as a creative director to women. ing over the next few their garments. Do you years? into what is now called street- and brand expert when I decided think this resistance is in- wear. There was so much energy to pivot and move into working “ tentional? There will be more fluidity and ac- on the street, and clubs were such for global companies like Adidas, ceptance, because that is where a fun diverse mix. People came Stussy and Nike. Streetwear is Yes, I know it is intentional. I have we are going as a society and a together to celebrate art, culture a culture of people wary of “pe- spoken to both James [Jebbia] generation. Zoomers don’t put and music, and it was electric. It destrians”. So you kind of have and Gareth [Skewis] about this. themselves into boxes the way was really a mishmash of culture, to get jumped in or vouched for, They see themselves as skate previous generations did. There and everyone was creative. This like the mafia. I was already in, so brands, and they don’t want to will be an evolution, and more was way before social media, so that made my transition into what make women’s products. If wom- acceptance. Maybe not so much people connected via community I do now seamless, I still had to en buy it, they are fine with that, with the right wing political base, and their friends, you had to be in develop my business skill set, but but they don’t want to communi- but in streetwear, it isn’t just about the know. There were subcultures from a cultural POV it was just the cate to women. Personally I think macho anymore. everywhere...it really spoke to the continuation of a journey. that’s narrow minded and bad ethos of ‘it ain’t where you’re from business, but they are privately but where you’re at,’ which is still You call yourself a “street- held, founder-led companies so a big part of streetwear culture. wear feminist,” what does

32 33 BORROWED FROM

THE BOYS

when stay-at-home orders call for minimum movement and maximum comfort, the #OOTD takes a new—and far less gendered—meaning

34 35 @TIAMADALYNN

@MADILONGLEGS24

36 37 @_GIIIB

@VIENNAVERNOSE

38 39 @TIAMADALYNN

@DANIELLA_LEVANTI

40 41 @_GIIIB

@NINANEENA

42 43 Meet the Berlin-based Riot SHE LOOKS Pant Project, two students screen-printing a silent war on LIKE A RIOT manspreading

You know him well. Maybe he’s next cretive as the wearer wants it to be— “There are people that deny to you on the 6 train, with a kneespan depending, cheekily, on the angle of manspreading, or claim that there is twice that of the average commuter. their thighs. The NSFW placement a biological reason for men to sit like Maybe he’s sipping an Americano of Riot Pant’s demands is no coin- that—which has been refuted by sci- across from you at the communal cidence, nor is the space for inter- ence several times,” said Bonakdar table, stretching his leather-bound pretation. “The slogans build a pro- and Buscaino. “Comments like ‘Be- notebook and Common Projects tective barrier between the outside cause of you, feminism can’t be tak- loafers far beyond the unspoken buf- and intimate parts, and also serve to en seriously anymore’ imply that our fer. Maybe his elbow is making itself desexualize the formally sexualized feelings are not legitimate and they comfortable on what is most definite- posture,” Bonakdar and Buscaino deny personal experiences, which to ly your theater armrest. said in an email. us is very anti-feminist, insulting, and dangerous.” He is the manspreader, and the Ber- Despite manspreading being a ste- lin-based Riot Pant Project is chip- reotypically male misdemeanor, Riot Snarky spreaders aside, Riot Pant ping away at his patriarchal throne— Pant Project identifies as gender- Project’s pastel-peppered, film- with little more than a screen-printing less. Bonakdar and Buscaino stress gained Instagram feed projects a setup and some spreading of their the importance of empowering any- world in which victims of manspread- own. one who has shrunk in the face (er, ing gleefully do the unthinkable: take legs) of manspreading. “We hope up space. While the foundation of After two decades of bus-seat shuf- that with our project, and through the Riot Pant Project was fueled by pa- fles and nonconsensual knee-brush- people spreading our message, we triarchal frustration, said the found- es, Universitat der Kunste Berlin can shed light on previously uncon- ers, the brand’s growing success is students Mina Bonakdar and Elena scious structures of sexism and gen- fueled by both reclamation and pure Buscaino retaliated sartorially. They der roles,” said the founders, noting creative joy. screen-printed “Stop Spreading,” their goal of building an alliance with “Toxic Masculinity,” and “Give Us cisgender men. Manspreading not “Reaching as many people as pos- Space” across the crotches of their only deflates womxn, they said, but sible with our project is our biggest own pants, then posted an apartment inflates the archaic, macho arche- wish for the future,” said Bonakdar photo shoot to a young @riotpant- type of leg-splaying masculinity: “We and Buscaino. “The more it spreads, project Instagram account. An an- want to advocate for a much more the less they spread. Hopefully.” ti-spread revolution was born. diverse approach to masculinity, which isn’t limited to having a penis Just a few months since their first In- or acting in a stereotypical mascu- stagram post, Riot Pant Project has line way.” garnered a following of nearly 3,000 manspreading victims hungry for ar- Of course, where unapologetic fem- mor. Customers have two options inism goes, the bruised male ego when acquiring a pair of Riot Pants: follows. Incel-esque comments crop ship a pair from your own wardrobe up in response to almost every Riot to be customized and returned, or Pant post, unironically layering mans- purchase a custom-printed pair from plaining on top of manspreading for Bonakdar and Buscaino’s inventory a laughable sundae of prickled mi- of vintage pants. sogyny. Rather than block most of the mansplainers, Riot Pant replies The sans-serif cry emblazoned on a and encourages conversation—but Riot Pant is as confrontational or se- some still garner getting blocked. PHOTO COURTESY OF RIOT PANT

44 45 CREDIT WHERE CREDIT IS DUE Every issue, we ask one of fashion’s brightest: Who’s the most underrated womxn of color in streetwear history?

“I think Misa Hylton is still kind of underrated, and is only now starting to receive “her flowers” in gratitude for all she has accomplished. She was amongst the pioneering stylists in the 1990s who brokered luxury fashion looks for the sets of hip-hop music videos. Back then, designers and PR reps for fashion brands didn’t trust lending their garments or accessories to Black music artists. Well, look up the music video “Crush on You” by Junior Mafia and you’ll see the genius”

- Kimberly Jenkins Educator, founder of the Fashion and Race Database 46 47 CONVERSIONS

48 49 ARIES