Cooking classes at TheHub Cook Like ALocal CHITLANG Charmed in THE SILVER SEASON Making thebest of

ISSUE 4 / DECEMBER 2018

CONTENTS

06 Making the best of the SILVER SEASON

13 Itinerants Guide 25 Base Camp with Cook Like A Local Poon Hill trek Cooking classes at The Hub

31 PICTURE PERFECT

59 CHARMED IN 19 CHITLANG

46 A taste of tradition at Sasa:

52 VAJRA TRADITIONALLY BOUTIQUE OUR DEDICATED TEAM

GANGA SAGAR PRAJAPATI PRODUCTION IN-CHARGE

MARIANNE HEREDGE EDITOR

MONICA PURI CONTENT WRITER / REPORTER

SANU RAJA MAHARJAN FOR ADVERTISMENT PHOTOGRAPHY [email protected] SUSHIL SUWAL GROUND REPORTER

Ad list 1. RANIBAN RETREAT 02 2. ONLINE 11 3. BHWE CHHEN RESTAURANT 12 4. HOTEL JAL MAHAL 18 5. CHITWAN ADVENTURE RESORT 24 6. PRABHU HELICOPTER 30 7. ONLINE KATHMANDU 45 8. ONLINE KATHMANDU 51 9. PRIME COLLEGE 58 10. THE AMADABLAM HOTEL 63 11. CAST HOLIDAY 66 12. ONLINE KATHMANDU 67 Making the best of the SILVER SEASON

NEPAL IS UNDENIABLY A TREKKER’S PARADISE. ’S GEOGRAPHICAL SITUATION AND THE ALTITUDINAL VARIATION, FROM THE LOWEST LOWLANDS TO THE HIGHEST PEAK IN THE WORLD, ARE SO UNIQUE THAT IT PROVIDES FOR EVERY IMAGINABLE ADVENTURE. FROM SOME OF THE MOST CHALLENGING ROUTES TO PLACES THAT ARE ACCESSIBLE FOR ALL AND MIGHT BE SUITABLE AS A NEWCOMER TO TREKKING, NEPAL HAS IT ALL. HOWEVER, ONE SHOULD TAKE INTO CONSIDERATION THE SEASON OR THE TIME OF YEAR WHEN DECIDING THE BEST TIME TO COME. WHILE ONE MAY HAVE CERTAIN QUALMS ABOUT FROLICKING IN THE CHILLY HILLS AND SNOW-CLAD MOUNTAIN TRAILS IN WINTER, THE POSSIBILITIES THIS SEASON HOLDS ARE TOO GOOD TO BE OVERLOOKED. THIS IS A GOOD TIME FOR ANYONE WHO WISHES TO ENJOY QUIETER, SHORTER TREKS. THE OPTIONS ARE ENDLESS. THE FAVOURITE SEASON

You should not follow blindly the advice on so-called peak or off season periods. Nepalis often take advantage of travelling during these off seasons, usually hot summers, monsoon or winter months, because these are the times when things are much quieter and less hectic. Experiencing the various seasons in Nepal also has its own allure. In terms of finding accommodation and other facilities, as the trails are relatively less crowded, it can be much easier to take advantage of cheaper prices and avoid the crowds. There are often travel packages tailored to encourage travellers to travel during these times. As the autumn draws into winter, the change in climate isn’t very harsh either. Even during the coldest winter, though the nights may get chilly, the days are warm in the sun. As cities like Kathmandu and don’t get any snow, it has become almost a ritual for many to hit the nearest hills to welcome the first snows of the winter just a couple hour’s drive and a hike away. Needless to say, the Kathmandu Valley itself offers some of the best hiking routes that are perfect to beat the winter chills.

Trekking in winter may be a gamble in some cases (like on some of the very high passes), but the merits far outweigh the disadvantages. The Himalayas seem to put on their best and crispy whites during winters when the snow is fresh and fluffy. Keep your mind open and accept the nature of Mother Nature as it comes. You should not disregard the safety guidelines outlined for some of the high altitude trekking routes as some are impassable due to snow, but there are still a great many number of options to choose from that make winter off season trekking a good idea. TREKS TO NOTE

EVEREST PANORAMA

It’s a trekker’s dream to make it to the Everest region, though winter doesn’t exactly seem like the best of times to head there due to the ex- treme cold temperatures. However, there are shorter and relatively easier treks that allow trekkers to make the most of this region even during the coldest time of year by taking the thrilling flight to Lukla and trekking to Namche.

ANNAPURNA PANORAMA

The Tadapani - Ghorepani - Poon Hill - Ghan- druk circuit is probably one of the most popular trekking routes in Nepal. The trail sees an almost unmanageable number of trekkers during peak seasons. The trek is short and takes you through some of the best parts of Annapurna area, pass- ing through villages and forests. It is almost per- fect during winter when the village teahouses and the trails are freer of too many trekkers, and you don’t have to fight your way through the crowds to enjoy the breathtaking views of the sunrise over the mountain ranges from Poon Hill (3210m).

THE LANGTANG VALLEY

The Langtang region is one of the many acces- sible trekking regions from Kathmandu. Trek- king through Langtang offers options to take the Tamang Heritage Trail or the Ruby Ridge Trail bordering the region’s conservation areas. The treks climb up to as high as 3000m from Shy- abrubesi and don’t get unbearably cold during winter. These routes are also very popular be- cause of the rich and distinct culture of the com- munities living there. SOAKING UP THE SUN IN THE FLATLANDS Most people tend to overlook the beauty of plains and only think of the mountains when Nepal is mentioned. But there’s more to Nepal than just hills and mountains. The winter season is probably the best time when one can pleasantly, and without dying of extreme heat, experience the vibrant and diverse Terai. Except for the cold spells that sometimes hit the plains in winter, we like to almost believe that the flatlands of Nepal never experience winter. While Chitwan might be as far as travellers would go to experience the southern areas that form the Terai, Lumbini, Bardiya, Janakpur, and Koshi to name a few, are famous for their rich culture and are also home to some of the best and diverse nature reserves of the country. And one needn’t even explain why Lumbini is one of the must-visit travel destinations in Nepal. There is an inexplicable charm to the Terai that one should definite- ly not miss out on.

Travel responsibly! FOR ADVERTISMENT [email protected]

MARIANNE HEREDGE If you like to publish your travel experience of nepal, EDITOR drop your article with some nice high resolution pic- tures at [email protected] ONLINE KATHMANDU Cook Like A Local Cooking classes at The Hub ‘Cook Like A Local’ and learn to cook Nepal’s favourite dishes – dal bhat, momos, aloo paratha – or anything else for that matter. These fun classes run by Social Tours at The Hub in Thamel have become so popular that they are being run twice a day, every day. To help translate, I had accompanied my French friend who doesn’t speak any English. I needn’t have worried. The rest of the group were from Belarus, many not speaking English either, but it wasn’t a problem.

As we were the first to arrive, we elected to make momos. We had to choose two kinds from the three flavours offered: cheese and spinach, vegetable, and chicken. Aware that there might be vegetarians among the others arriving soon, we selected the veggie and cheese and spinach momos.

Ashmita took us to a local shop a few minutes’ walk away to buy a few ingredients like spinach, momo spices and assorted vegetables. Back at The Hub, everyone washed their hands and put on their aprons to start work making the pastry and the stuffing for the momos. As our two teachers explained what to do, everyone got down to chopping, mixing and kneading the dough. I learned how important it is to get the dough nice and supple. The secret to this is kneading it for about 15 minutes so it forms a nice elastic dough that is rolled and cut into circles, so the momos can be formed into crescents or round shapes that won’t fall apart when they are steamed. Once cooked, the momos were served to the now hungry group who feasted on their finished product.

A big thank you to Ashmita and Sakuntala, our teachers. HOW TO JOIN: You can book your place on a COST: Pay what you think it’s worth. class any time either by calling in at The Hub, calling 9801123401 or sending a message to LOCATION: In the centre of Thamel, you need to [email protected]. Classes normally run at look up as The Hub is on the first floor above the 10.30am and 1.30pm every day (subject to de- Yakety Yak Hostel, on Amrita Marg in Jyatha. mand). Otherwise go to Cook Like A Local for a booking form.

CHARMED IN CHITLANG

AND SO THE WINTER HAS FINALLY COME.

IN KATHMANDU, WINTER DOESN’T NECESSARILY EMULATE THE GRAY AND GLUM. I BELIEVE IT’S RATHER AN ENLIGHTENING TIME OF THE YEAR THAT REMINDS YOU TO BE GRATEFUL TO THE SUN GOD, AND GATHER ENOUGH ENDURANCE TO NOT TURN HATEFUL AGAIN WHEN THE HOT SUMMERS COME. BUT JOKES APART, MORE THAN ANYTHING ELSE, THIS IS THE SEASON WHEN, FOR SOME STRANGE REASON, WE LOVE GOBBLING UP A RATHER LIMITLESS PORTION OF ORANGES AND PEANUTS WHILE SOAKING UP AS MUCH VITAMIN D AS ONE POSSIBLY CAN. WHEN YOU HAVE NOTHING BETTER TO DO, THIS PRETTY MUCH SUMS UP YOUR WINTER MEMORIES IN KATH- MANDU. But we’re not putting an end to a heartwarming sunny winter’s day at that, are we?

The goal here is to find even nicer places to express our gratefulness over more of those endless supply of oranges and peanuts. This time around, Chitlang hits the spot.

The village of Chitlang is one of the many ancient Newari settlements surrounding the southwest re- gions of the great valley, and gracefully sits cradled in between the undulating hills of Makwanpur dis- trict. The village is only some several hours ride away from the city and is exceedingly growing as one of the most sought-out quick getaways among travel junkies who are unable to escape the incessant city clamour. The region is now famed for its scenic hiking routes, exciting cycling trails, camping grounds and modest homestays. GETTING THERE

IF YOU INSIST ON USING LOCAL TRANSPORTATION, GET ON A BUS TO THANKOT FROM RATNA PARK AND ASK THE BUS CONDUCTOR TO DROP YOU OFF AT A PLACE CALLED GODAM. FROM THERE ON, THERE WILL BE OTHER TRANSPORTATION THAT WILL TAKE YOU TO CHITLANG. GETTING TO CHITLANG IS ALMOST MORE THAN A COUPLE HOUR’S DRIVE AWAY, SO MAKE SURE YOU’RE SEATED COMFORTABLY LEST YOU WANT TO END UP CRANKY EVEN BEFORE THE JOURNEY STARTS. THERE ARE ALSO OTHER HIKING ROUTES YOU CAN OPT FOR, SUCH AS VIA MARKHU (REFER TO OUR PREVIOUS ISSUE) OR FROM THANKOT TO CHANDRAGIRI HILLS AND FINALLY TO CHITLANG. TO SAVE TIME AND AVOID CONFUSION, YOU CAN ALSO HIRE A TAXI TO GET YOU TO THE PLACE. OUT AND ABOUT

The unreserved natural and cultural beauty of this quaint village feels very re- freshing. Many ancient monuments and temples dot the village area. To the tired and sore mind, a peaceful walk through the verdant fields and greener pastures is enough to provide with a rejuvenating ex- perience. One of the common sights sin- gular to Chitlang is its rich pear orchards. Even when they’re not in season, just pic- turing all those trees in full bloom, teem- ing with those luscious fruits is enough to tear up my eyes with anticipation.

Chitlang also boasts one of the very first of the goat cheese factories in Nepal. The goat cheese produced here even tops the finest that are available in the market and is thus supplied to some of the finest ho- tels back in the city. The factory is open to all who wish to visit and learn about it. The folks here will gladly show you around and guide your factory tour. ACCOMMODATION

Even though you can conveniently spend your day here and be back in the city by evening the same day, spending a night in Chitlang is worth every penny you own. Homestays or village stays do have a nice ring to it, and you’d definitely want to be a part of it when you’re there. There are also various other decent options to choose from if longing for a home away from home is not your motto. Outdoor camp- ing is also a possibility, and who doesn’t love blazing bonfires, even more so in chilly winter evenings.

EXTENDING YOUR STAY

If you decide to take your time while in Chitlang, you can take this opportunity to trek to the Chandragiri hills, if you already haven’t done so. The Kulekhani reservoir is less than an hour away from Chitlang, so you can even choose to spend another day of tranquility by the Indrasarovar lake there before you finally feel like heading back to Kathmandu.

ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP WITH GHOREPANI POON HILL TREK

FLIGHT OR DRIVE TO POKHARA After breakfast, we will drive you to the Tribhuvan International Airport’s Domestic Terminal DAY to take a 25-minute flight to Pokhara. During the short flight to Pokhara, you will have majes- 1 tic views of the glorious Manaslu peaks and the snow-capped Annapurna mountain range as well as the Langtang Himalayan range. Our Staff will meet you at the Pokhara Airport and take you to your hotel. It is also possible to take a tourist coach to Pokhara via the scenic Prithvi Highway. The duration of the trip by bus is six to seven hours to Pokhara. Your ar- rival will be followed by a boating trip on Phewa Lake, where you can enjoy the spectacular views of Annapurna Himalayan Range reflected in all its glory in the calm green waters of the lake and visit the temple which is only accessible by boat. Stay overnight at the hotel.

POKHARA TREKKING TO TIKHE DHUNGA (1540M) Drive by car to Nayapul via the large village of Lumle, which is about an hour and a half DAY drive. Your walk will start from Nayapul, where you’ll trek through a large and prosperous 2 village Birethanti. The trekking trail follows bamboo forests, passes waterfalls that have in- viting plunge pools. You can have lunch at the small village of Sudame. After lunch, the trail climbs steadily up to Hile, and after a short walk, you will arrive at Tikhe Dhunga, overnight at guest house. TIKHE DHUNGA TREKKING TO GHOREPANI (2775M) DAY From Tikhe Dhunga, the trail ascends 3 to Ulleri village up a stone staircase. Ulleri is a large Magar village situated at 2070m. From Ulleri, the trail gen- tly passes through pasture lands and cultivated fields. As you climb up, you walk through the refreshingly cool oak and rhododendron forests alongside a cascading river. We will have lunch at Nangethanti. The trail ascends this time to Ghorepani, the day’s final des- tination. Ghorepani provides majestic views of Dhaulagiri I (8167m), Tukuche Peak, Nilgiri (6940m), , Annapurna I (8091m), Hiunchu- li (6441m) and Tarke Kang (7193m), among others.

GHOREPANI TREK TO POON HILL (3193M) AND TREK TO TADAPANI

DAY (2540M) 4 An early morning rise will be followed by a one hour trek to Poon Hill. Poon TADAPANI TREKKING TO CHHOM- Hill is one of the best Himalayan view RONG (2210M) points in Nepal. The view point pro- DAY The trail drops down from Tadapani, vides an unobstructed view of sunrise 5 through a dense Rhododendron forest. over the high Himalayas. From Poon Chhomrong (2040m) will reward you Hill, one can enjoy spectacular views with an astounding spectacle of tower- of Dhaulagiri I (8167m), Tukuche Peak ing Annapurna South peaks, Annapur- Nilgiri (6940m), Annapurna South, An- na 4, Fishtail (Machhapuchhre). Stay napurna I (8091m), (6441m) overnight at a guest house. and Tarke Kang (7193m), Gangapurna (7454m), Lamjung Himal (6986m), Mt Fishtail (Macchapuchre 6997m), Tent Peak and many other himalayan rang- es. We will walk down to Ghorepani for CHHOMRONG TREKKING TO DOVAN breakfast and then trek to Tadapani. A (2540M) short early morning climb to the Deu- rali pass accompanied by spectacular DAY We walk through the forest of Kuld- panoramic views of Dhaulagiri and the 6 ighar. The track winds up through deep Annapurna. The trail will then descend bamboo and rhododendron forest to steeply through a dense moss-covered the village of Dovan. Stay overnight at forest rich with bird life to Tadapani, a guest house. which provides you a stunning sun- set view. Spend the night at the guest house. DOVAN TREKKING TO MACHHAPU- CHHRE BASE CAMP (3700M) DAY A trek through the narrow Modi Kho- 7 la valley will bring you almost to the base of the M.B.C. On this day, we climb past the Machhapuchhare Base Camp (which isn’t really a base camp since climbing the mountain is not per- mitted) to the Annapurna Base Camp (4130m). This area is known as the An- napurna Sanctuary as it is completely surrounded by mountains. From here, it is a two-hour trek to Annapurna Base camp. Here you will spend a day gaz- ing away at the snow covered peaks and the beauty of the landscape that surrounds. Stay overnight at Machha- puchhre Base Camp in a guest house. MACHHAPUCHHRE BASE CAMP TREKKING TO ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP (ABC) (4130M) DAY After breakfast, we will continue trekking to ABC alongside great magnificent mountain 8 views. Here in the sanctuary, you’ll be able to get breathtaking 360-degree views of moun- tains. Although the view might at times be clouded, it usually clears up at sunrise to reveal radiant, glowing peaks. Get some rest at the ABC and explore around for fun (if you will feel altitude sickness or any other problems, we will take you down to MBC or Deurali)

ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP TREKKING TO BAMBOO (2340M) From Annapurna Base Camp, the trek gradually descends to Bamboo through Himalayan DAY Hotel and Dovan. Stay overnight at a guest house. 9

BAMBOO TREKKING TO JHINU DANDA (1750M) From Annapurna Base Camp, the trek gradually descends to Bamboo through Himalayan DAY Hotel and Dovan. Stay overnight at a guest house. 10 JHINU HOT SPRING TO POTHANA (1990M) DAY After breakfast, the trek will continue 11 to Landruk, a beautiful Gurung village, which provides you an excellent view of the surrounding mountain ranges. The trail then emerges in the main Modi Khola valley taking us to Tolkha and finally to Pothana, where we’ll be staying the night at a guest house. You will also see excellent views of Mt Fish- tail (6697m) from here.

POTHANA TREKKING TO POKHARA On this day, we will walk on a paved DAY stone trail through lush Rhododendron 12 forests that will take us to Dhampus (1750m). Dhampus is a village inhab- ited by people from varied cultural backgrounds, especially from Gurung, Brahman, and Magar communities. After a brief rest here, we will walk mostly downhill through the fields and forests to Phedi. From Phedi, a 30-min- ute drive will take us back to Pokhara. While in Pokhara, you can enjoy boat- ing on Phewa Lake or explore on your own. Stay overnight at a hotel.

FLIGHT OR DRIVE TO KATHMANDU After breakfast, we will drive you to the DAY pokhara Airport to take a 25-minute 13 flight to kathmandu or 6 hours drive to kathmandu. Rest of the day self time for shopping or rest.

DEPARTURE After breakfast, we will drive you to the DAY Tribhuvan International Airport’s for 14 your flight back home.

Look into my father’s eyes “IN CALM DEVOTION“

Patan Durbar Square, Lalitpur

“HEAVEN LET YOUR LIGHT SHINE DOWN “

Patan Durbar Square, Lalitpur

“BEYOND THE GLORIOUS GATES “

The Golden Temple, Patan, Lalitpur

“HOMAGE TO THE LORD “

The Bhairab Temple, Bhaktapur

“ BASKING IN NATURE’S BOUNTY “

Chobhar, Kathmandu

“ DEFT HANDS “

A potter at work

“ THE MONALISA SMILE“

A lady poses at a cultural event held in Tundikhel grounds, Kathmandu FOR ADVERTISMENT [email protected] A TASTE OF TRADITION AT SASA:

SASA

IN NEWARI, SASA: MEANS ‘SASURALI’ (NEPALI) - AN IN-LAW’S HOUSE OR YOUR WIFE’S PAR- ENTS’ HOUSE. AS IS THE CULTURE IN NEPAL, SONS-IN-LAW VISITING THEIR WIFE’S PARENTS’ HOUSE ARE GIVEN GREAT RESPECT BY THEIR PARENTS-IN-LAW. SO CULTURALLY AND TRADI- TIONALLY, SASA: IS AN EMBODIMENT OF A PLACE WHERE THE HIGHEST DEGREE OF HOSPITAL- ITY IS OFFERED. Owing to the growing popularity of local cuisines, city denizens have invaded every nook and cranny in and around Kathmandu to get their share. And the neighbour- hood of Kirtipur is no exception.

With Newari-specialty eateries taking the local culinary scene by storm, Sasa: in Kir- tipur, a traditional Newari cafe now nearing its ninth anniversary, has secured itself a deserving and distinct spot among the rest, particularly when it comes to serving some of the most authentic and exotic, even rare Newari special dishes.

In Newari, Sasa: means ‘sasurali’ (Nepali) - an in-law’s house or your wife’s parents’ house. As is the culture in Nepal, sons-in-law visiting their wife’s parents’ house are given great respect by their parents-in-law. So culturally and traditionally, Sasa: is an embodiment of a place where the highest degree of hospitality is offered. Keep- ing the spirit of hospitality alive, (but not quite limiting to the in-laws alone), and in harmony with the true essence of what Sasa: stands for, Sasa: pursues to establish itself as an eatery that indulges its customers in the finest Newari hospitality and flavours. SAPU MHICHA

At first sight, offal might not necessarily be an appetising dish for some, while back here many especially from the Newar com- munity go gaga over these Newari delicacies, especially Sapu Mhicha, or bone marrow, (shyan in Newari), that is filled and wrapped tight into a delicate layer of buffalo leaf tripe. The bite- size, ravioli shaped concoction is boiled, then fried to a crisp, and served piping hot to keep the marrow inside fluid, so the thing when popped eaten whole, should simply melt in your mouth. Don’t eat the thread though, which is just used to trap the marrow inside the tripe cover. And if it makes you feel any better, the leaf tripe is thoroughly washed before use.

It is quite tricky to describe what Sapu Mhicha actually tastes like. When asked what is so inviting about this dish, it is very tasty. Nothing foreign, except for a pinch of salt and spices, goes into the dish either. The deep-fried crunchy skin of the Sapu Mhicha betrays its looks once the warm, soft, creamy marrow starts ooz- ing in your mouth. So Sapu Mhicha is one of those dishes that you might love or hate, or maybe love again after helping yourself to a second piece. But don’t eat too much, as these nutritious delicacies might feel a bit heavy in the tummy. JHUKU Jhuku is another rare delicacy perhaps unheard by many and is rare since even Newari-specialty food joints usually will not have included this item on their menu. Sasa: is probably the only one place or one among the few that has the dish on offer. Jhuku is another Newari specialty that is rarely available - a white blood sausage. The white blood of a buffalo (or a bull), called choi in Newari, is kept and sold separately from the red blood. The white blood is cooked with salt and spices, refined flour, some eggs, and the mixture is piped into the washed and cleaned entrails to give it its ubiquitous sausage shape. The stuffed entrails are then steamed until done, but not more than ten minutes, and it is then refrigerated until it is served. Sasa: serves them sautéed and sprinkled lightly with spices. Food items like these are a rarity in eateries probably because of the ingredients used, which are quite limited, unlike meat and other parts.

As Narayan Balami from Sasa: told us, almost every part of the animal, buffalo or bull, is used to create unique dishes, but typical to Newar food tradition. This is what he calls being respectful of the animal that gave its life to provide for us by not wasting any part. Narayan dai is a trained cook by profession, who’s travelled around the world pursuing his profession, and has finally settled in his own hometown promoting and preparing the traditional recipes of the Newar community. He’s been taking care of the food preparation for Sasa: for the past eight years.

Sasa:’s menu is a diner’s delight with a variety of dishes to choose from. Do try some of the regular Newari titbits or go for a filling spread of authentic Newari food combos. What- ever your palate is craving for, we recommend you squeeze in this popular Newari joint the next time you’re in town. In addition, a trip to Kirtipur makes for a pleasing getaway from the busy city. And Sasa: itself is a haven keeping things true to Newari tradition and culture, with even the seating areas following the fashion of traditional Newari cottages.

Once you get off at Kirtipur’s bus park, take the straight road until you see Sasa:’s banner to your left. Or to make things less confusing, ask the locals to show you the way to the place. FOR ADVERTISMENT [email protected] VAJRA TRADITIONALLY BOUTIQUE ATITHI DEVO BHAVA

The emphasis on promoting culture and tradition through the hospitality sector is dom- inating hoteliers’ priorities. Even more so in the case of those located close to the heri- tage and cultural sites. The Vajra Guest House and Restaurant in Bhaktapur champions a similar belief and thus promises to provide its guests with a comfortable and fulfilling stay within Bhaktapur’s Durbar Square. Sajan Laghu, a hospitality professional, has been managing Vajra for over a year now and is geared up to reestablish the Vajra name as a boutique hotel all the while adhering to Newari hospitality values and design aesthetics.

Vajra, like many of its contemporaries, draws its character from Newari art and archi- tecture but keeps things minimal without overcrowding its spaces. A collection of classic photographs adorn the walls, nostalgically displaying images from days of yore. Even the most trivial of details, like woodwork typical to traditional Newari houses, the occa- sional splash of vivid red and black of haku patashi, use of dhaka fabric, clay and wooden masks, and dhalucha (hanging lamps) as decorations show off tradition and culture. STAY

Vajra looks over the ancient Durbar Square and old town of Bhaktapur. And since the hotel is set quite a way away from the crowds, unwanted disturbance does not encroach Vajra’s walls. There are 16 rooms in total (single/double/twin/apartment rooms) and each room is well furnished with the basic necessities and equipped with a TV, free Wi-Fi service, electric kettle for tea or coffee, and an attached bathroom with 24-hours a day hot water. The rooms do not have any air-conditioning, but a fan during summer and a heater during winter are provided on request.

A stay in Bhaktapur is not justified without an enchanting display of culture. Being situated at the heart of history and culture, Vajra promotes tradition and Newari culture by occasionally organising cultural masked dance performances, such as Nava Durga Naach, Mahakali Naach, and more. But such shows are arranged on request and require the guests to pay additional charges. The events are usually inclu- sive of a meal for the attendees.

The hotel also provides a travel information help desk and arranges for guided tours, vehicles and bike rentals when requested. PERSONALISED SERVICE What Vajra may lack in terms of luxurious ame- nities, it makes up for it with its meticulous deliv- ery of customer services. Creating an environ- ment for guests where they can freely ask for assistance from the hotel staff if they ever face any difficulty in the hotel is an important aspect of Vajra service. And Laghu tends to keep it this way. For Vajra, catering to the needs of its guests tops the chart. Everything else comes after. Staff at Vajra are humble, well-spoken and never for- get to greet a guest with an honest smile. Their success mantra - a personalised service coupled with providing quality facilities, has certainly ap- pealed to the many guests who have nothing but kind things to say about Vajra.

Recently, during the festival of Tihar, Vajra hosted a joint celebration of Mha Puja for all its guests and members. FOOD AND RESTAURANT The courtyard of the Vajra serves as a garden and a fine dining area for the hotel’s restaurant and bar. The restaurant is open for 24 hours for in-house guests and closes orders for other guests at 9:30 pm. The restaurant area embraces the concept of falcha, which means a communal resting place common in Newar communities where people came together to interact with each other. The open coffee bar sits right beside the main entrance and offers an outdoor seating arrangement of woven sukul mats.

Laghu believes that to truly enrich one’s travel experience, experiencing and appreciating the local fare is crucial. Vajra offers an elaborate menu of choices, encouraging guests to try the local dishes, such as choila, bara, samay baji, Newari or Nepali Thali. And looking at the many positive reviews it has received, the guests have not been disappointed. For breakfast, Vajra recommends its custom fusion breakfast, which consists of jeri, sel, a bowl of potato gravy, seasonal fruits, tea or coffee, juice and toast.

And of course, how can anyone proudly say they’ve been to Bhaktapur unless they’ve had the sweet Juju Dhau or the king’s curd. FACILITIES • Parking space • Laundry service • Storage and safe deposit vaults

TARIFF Please contact the hotel for the latest information on room rates and availability.

CONTACT DETAILS Balakhu - 10, Bhaktapur, Nepal Tel : +977-1-6610782 / 6616636

THE CYCLING CULTURE IN NEPAL IS GROW- ING. MORE AND MORE CITY DWELLERS ARE OPTING FOR THIS EXHILARATING SPORT AS A HEALTHY HOBBY. CYCLING ENTHUSIASTS HAVE EVEN CREATED GROUPS AND TOURS FOR BE- GINNERS AND AMATEURS, GUIDING THEM AND FUELLING THEIR ENTHUSIASM FOR CYCLING. IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR A WAY TO BREAK AWAY FROM THE MONOTONY OF YOUR ROUTINE, TAKING TO THE CYCLING TRAILS AROUND THE CITY MIGHT BE A REFRESHING WAY TO REJU- VENATE YOURSELF AND EXPLORE YOUR SUR- ROUNDINGS.

THERE ARE A NUMBER OF PLACES AROUND THE CITY FROM WHERE YOU CAN RENT ALL KINDS OF BIKES TO SUIT YOUR NEEDS (RENT- ALS MIGHT COST AROUND USD 10 PER DAY). JOINING AN ORGANISED CYCLING TOUR IS ALSO A GOOD WAY TO JOIN OTHERS WITH THE SAME INTEREST AND EXPLORE THE CITY WITHOUT THE FEAR OF GETTING LOST.

PHOTO COURTESY: PANC BIKE THAMEL - MUDKHU - TINPIPLE - TOKHA - THAMEL This trail takes you to the northern part of Kathmandu, along the Trishuli Highway and the Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park. From Thamel, take the road that leads to Balaju Chowk (roundabout) and from there, head left towards Machha Pokhari and then join the Tr- ishuli Highway from Balaju Bypass. Mudkhu is some six kilometres away from Bypass. You ride past the Nagarjun Forest Reserve, which is a part of the Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park, on your way to Mudkhu. You will also come across several security checkpoints along the way. Mudkhu is a destination fre- quented by hikers and mountain bikers and offers beautiful views of the natural surround- ings. Recharge yourself over a nice cup of tea and snacks in Mudkhu. Stick to the road that goes to Kakani from Mudkhu to reach Tinpiple. The trail goes slightly downhill here but noth- ing challenging. But because the condition of roads is ever changing here, it might be off- road or unpaved. Tinpiple is almost five kilo- metres away from Mudkhu. After crossing a checkpoint, you will get to a peepal tree where you can also find a signpost for Tinpiple. It’s a good idea to catch your breath here and get something to drink if you wish. You can always strike up a conversation with the locals to tell you more about the place and the route you’ll be taking.

Follow the narrow road from Tinpiple to Tokha. The trail to Tokha is mostly off-road and will take you through the fields. There will be slight changes in elevation from time to time but then again nothing that you won’t be able to conquer. After almost an hour of cycling, you will get to Tokha, which is known to be the hottest part of the Kathmandu Valley. Tokha is also famous for making Chaku, a Nepali treat similar to molasses. You can grab a bite and even do some sight- seeing when you’re at it.

From Tokha, take the road to get back to Ring Road, and then back to Thamel.

PHOTO COURTESY: PANC BIKE THAMEL - KIRTIPUR - CHOBAR - BUNGAMATI - KHOKANA – THAMEL This trail almost covers 30 to 40 kilometres and takes you from Kath- mandu to the surrounding villages and valleys.

From Thamel, the route to Kirtipur is shortest via the Kalimati-Balkhu route. Start early because mornings are fresh and better for cycling in these otherwise busy roads. Mornings also get pretty interesting along this route as Kalimati is one of the main vegetable centres in the city and is quite busy early in the morning. If you’re on your own and are in doubt, always stop and ask for directions. Upon reaching the Ring Road, take a left from Balkhu Chowk and as long as you stay on this road, there should no problems finding the way to Kirtipur. After a while, you’ll eventually see the entrance of Tribhuvan University on your right, which is also the gateway to Kirtipur. There are no confus- ing roads at this point, so getting to Kirtipur is easy. It is also one of the oldest Newari settlements in Kathmandu and is highly regarded as a place of great cultural importance. Take your time to explore the town area. One of the oldest temples of Baag Bhairav, a revered de- ity of Kirtipur, is also situated here. Whenever you’re ready, take the way out from Panga to get to Chobar, which is almost a 30-minute ride. The trail to Chobar from Kirtipur is through the fields almost all the way. Chobar village is famous for the gorge which was believed to be the outlet cut open by Maha Manjushree to drain the lake that Kathmandu once was.

As you get to the bridge on the way, cross it and take the first right from there. The trail gets more exciting from here onwards. It’s a sin- gle track, so be careful or if you do not feel confident enough, you can simply walk your bicycle until you reach a comfortable part of the trail. Walking or cycling through the green fields is peaceful, which is why this trail is popular among many cycling enthusiasts. You might even come across pretty ladies clad in haku patasi, traditional Newari attire for women, walking from surrounding villages on their way to the fields or back home. This single track leads you to Sikali chour, one of the famous temples of Khokana. This Khokana trail is famous among bikers as the Marijuana Loop simply because of the wild grow- ing marijuana weeds along the track. The Sikali ground is a good place to take a breather while taking in the generous views of the valley alongside the quietly flowing Bagmati River. You can wander around in Khokana if you wish and then steadily make your way to the village of Bungamati, less than 15 minutes away from here. Bungamati is another ancient village of Newars and is famous for its handicrafts and woodworks. It is also home to the Kumari of Bungamati, one of the living goddesses of Nepal.

From Bungamati, you can take the main road to get to Ring Road and then back to Thamel. PHOTO COURTESY: PANC BIKE

THAMEL - CHAPAGAUN - SANTANESHWOR - HARISIDDHI - GODAWARI – THAMEL From Thamel, take any road that you’re comfortable with to get on the road towards Patan Durbar Square, Magal bazar, in Lalitpur. Ride past this ancient town through Mangal Bazar and join the Ring Road to Sat- dobato, and take the road to Sunakothi. If you have any difficulty finding the way, ask anyone for the way to Bajra Barahi temple, one of the four famous Barahi temples in Nepal. It will easily take an hour or so to get to the temple. Take a break and if you’re hungry, get something to eat here. The ride only grows more thrilling from here onwards.

From the temple’s entrance gate, take the back road to get to some stairs that might make for a mini down- hill experience. Before you decide to try the actual thing, tighten your helmet straps and prepare to zoom down the stairs! There will be onlookers cheering you on. The stairs lead to a single track trail through the fields. If it gets too difficult, it’s okay to take your time and walk your bicycle through the fields while taking in the view before you. If the weather is on your side, you might even be able to see the mountains from there.

Ask anyone for directions to Santaneshwor Mahadev. The temple is situated on top of a hill. It is believed that women who worship Lord Shiva in this temple will never be infertile. The hill itself offers an uninterrupted panoramic view of the Kathmandu Valley and beautiful snow-capped mountain ranges on any clear day.

Continue your trip towards Harisiddhi, which is famous for its authentic Newari eateries and local alcoholic beverages, raksi and chhyang. If you have the time, do take a moment to look around or start cycling to- wards Godawari, home to the national botanical garden of Nepal. The garden is situated at the foot of the Phulchowki hill. Ride to the nearest temple here. Along the way, there are two huge ponds with five stone spouts which were believed to have been formed when a drop of Amrita, the elixir of immortal life, fell on these grounds, during the churning of the ocean of milk as mentioned in Hindu mythology. If you feel like beating the fatigue the natural way, you are even allowed to take a dip in these holy waters.

From Godawari, it’s a two hours’ ride back to Thamel.

OCT 16 - NOV 15 2018

NOV 19 HARIBODANI EKADASHI Lord Vishnu went to sleep for four months on the bed of Shesh Nag, in a period that is called Chaturmas which begins on the Shayani Ekadashi and ends on Haribodani Ekadashi. (Ekadashi means the 11th day of lunar fortnight and the period falls during the month of Mangsir or November-De- cember).

NOV 20 TULSHI VIVAHA NOVEMBER Tulshi Vivah is a symbolical ceremonial marriage between the holy stone Shali- gram and the Tulshi plant (holy basil). It symbolises the reconciliation between SUN MON TUE WED THUR FRI SAT Lord Vishnu and his great devotee Vrinda, personified by the Shaligram and the Tul- shi plant as mentioned in the Hindu texts. 16 17

18 19 20 21 22 23 24 NOV 27 GURU NANAK JAYANTI 25 26 27 28 29 30 Sikh communities around the world cel- ebrate the birthday of Guru Nanak, the DECEMBER founder of the Sikh religion. Devotees lis- ten to hymns reciting spiritual teachings of 1 Sikh gurus, praising the existence and con- tribution of these teachers in their life. The Gurudwara (shrine) is crowded with Sikh 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 devotees to pay homage to Guru Nanak along with nine other important Sikh gurus 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 who succeeded Guru Nanak. DEC 6 BALA CHATURDRASHI The festival begins at dusk with the light- ing of oil lamps. Devotees recite chants or mantras to keep themselves awake all the night to ensure the lamps stay lit. As dawn breaks, devotees take a holy bath in the Bagmati River by the Pashupati Temple and offer a libation to Shiva for the eternal peace of departed souls. They then walk into Sleshmantak Forest scattering seven different grains, returning to the temple before the sun rises. These prayers help direct restless souls to the path of salva- tion. Different hymns are sung and dances are performed to songs hailing the great- ness of the festival and the god.

DEC 6 VIVAHA PANCHAMI The festival begins at dusk with the light- ing of oil lamps. Devotees recite chants or mantras to keep themselves awake all the night to ensure the lamp stay lit. As dawn breaks, devotees take a holy bath in the Bagmati River by Pashupati Temple and offer a libation to the Shiva for the eternal peace of departed souls. They then walk into Sleshmantak Forest scattering seven different grains, returning to the temple before the sun rises. These prayers help direct restless souls to the path of salva- tion. Different hymns are sung and dances are performed to songs hailing the great- ness of the festival and the god itself. AD FOR ADVERTISMENT [email protected] TAAN URGES GOVERNMENT TO MAKE GUIDES MANDATORY FOR TREKKERS campaigns. Similarly, Rs243.9 million has been allotted for tourism heritage publicity and human KATHMANDU: Trekking Agencies Association resources development and Rs76.6 million has of Nepal (TAAN) has urged the Ministry of Cul- been allocated for development of provincial ture, Tourism and Civil Aviation to strictly imple- destination promotional campaigns. ment the provision of taking porter and guide “We have also made a special plan to promote while trekking. the Visit Nepal 2020 campaign too,” Joshi in- TAAN members including officials from the Ne- formed. pal Tourism Board and Department of Tourism met Tourism Secretary Krishna Prasad Devkota CAAN, CHINESE FIRM SIGN TIA’S and requested him to properly implement the Trekkers’ Information Management Systems RUNWAY REHABILITATION PROJ- (TIMS). ECT TAAN President Nava Raj Dahal emphasized on importance of TIMS to ensure safety and secu- KATHMANDU: The Civil Aviation Authority of rity of trekkers and to control illegal trekking op- Nepal (CAAN) has signed a contract with China eration. National Aero Technology International Engi- As TIMS is being implemented in only particular neering Corporation to rehabilitate the runway area of Annapurna Region, he expressed that and taxiway at Tribhuvan International Airport TIMS need to be implemented effectively in ev- (TIA). ery trekking region. “Trekkers will be safer and Of the four international firms that had submit- secure and less accidents can occur while trek- ted their applications for the runway and taxiway king with porter and guide.” rehabilitation project at TIA, the Chinese compa- NTB Board Members Deepak Mahat and Krish- ny was the lowest bidder. The project is worth na Aryal said that distributing TIMS for free in- Rs3.55 billion, said Babu Ram Poudel, chief of dependent trekkers should be ended and porter the TIA Runway and Taxiway Rehabilitation guide must be taken by trekkers mandatorily. Project. In the first phase, the contractor has been giv- en the mandate to complete rehabilitating the NTB APPROVES RS1.71 BILLION 3,050-metre runway by June next year. The civil aviation regulatory body said that the BUDGET actual works regarding the maintenance of the TIA runway will begin from April first week next KATHMANDU: The Nepal Tourism Board (NTB) year. has approved a budget of Rs1.71 billion for the The government moved to upgrade the sole ongoing fiscal year 2018-19. runway at TIA as it started developing frequent The country’s tourism promotional body said cracks and potholes, affecting many incoming that majority of the budget has been earmarked and outbound flights along with other security for tourism promotion, branding and marketing issues. Cracks along the runway in fact have be- purposes. come a routine affair since the last few years. “This year, the budget is mainly focuses on tourism branding in China and India as well as NEPAL PROMOTED ‘EXPERIENCE enhancing the capacity of human resources in- volved in the tourism sector,” said Deepak Raj NEPAL’ AT WTM 2018, LONDON Joshi, chief executive officer of NTB. KATHMANDU: Nepal’s participation at the NTB has allocated Rs373.5 million for tour- World Travel Market (WTM) 2018 at ExCel, ism market management and promotion and London, concluded successfully on November Rs321.5 million for public relations and publicity 7 followed by Destination Showcase. The fair provided an ideal platform for fresh promotions, visibility of Nepal as an exotic holiday getaway, allow Nepali carriers to land in different Chinese and in providing latest information and updates cities. in the UK market. The first national tourism campaign was The fair was led by Nepal Tourism Board (NTB) launched in 1998 when Nepal hosted 463,684 in coordination with 32 private sector tourism visitors, representing a growth of 10 percent. In companies. The delegation was led by Chief Ex- 2011, the government launched another Nepal ecutive Officer of Nepal Tourism Board Deepak Tourism Year campaign with the goal of bringing Raj Joshi. 1 million tourists. Private sector participants renewed their con- Although actual arrivals fell short of the target, tacts and created new contacts during the fair. 736,215 tourists visited the country, or a growth Nepal’s participation was bigger than previous of 22 percent over the previous year. Nepal has years with bigger space centrally located with targeted to bring at least 500,000 Chinese tour- attractive stand. ists in 2020. Tourism professionals, tour operators, private companies, members of the media, photogra- phers, bloggers, and content creators from Brit- AIRBUS A220 MAKES MAIDEN ain and around the world visited the Nepal Stall at the WTM 2018. LANDING IN NEPAL Nepal’s Ambassador to the United Kingdom Durga Bahadur Subedi also visited the Nepal KATHMANDU: The newest addition to the Air- Stall with officials from the Nepal Embassy. bus family of commercial aircraft, the A220, has On November 6, a soft launching of “Visit Nepal made its first visit to Nepal as part of a world 2020” was held at the Nepal pavilion and hon- demonstration tour. ored to receive Hari Buda Magar, the interna- Offering unsurpassed performance and superior tional adventure hero with double amputee as a passenger comfort in the small single-aisle mar- special speaker. ket, the A220-300 in an airBaltic livery went on The biggest highlight was “Lonely Planet pre- display at Tribhuvan International Airport, Kath- senting Nepal the award for Kathmandu “the mandu, on November 11 and 12. best cities to visit in 2019”. The program was The aircraft, which can accommodate 145 pas- attended by British tour operators, media and sengers, is on a demo tour of four countries friends of Nepal in London, and the delegation of including China, Nepal, Turkey and Thailand. It Nepal and Nepali tour operators. offers exceptional performance, comfort and profitability and is well-suited for high altitude airports such as Kathmandu. NEPAL REQUESTS BEIJING TO GRANT LANDING RIGHTS IN DIF- As the only aircraft purpose-built for the 100-150 FERENT CHINESE CITIES seat market, the A220 delivers unbeatable fuel efficiency and true widebody comfort in a single KATHMANDU: Tourism Minister Rabindra aisle aircraft. Adhikari on Tuesday asked China to allow Nepali The aircraft brings together state-of-the-art carriers to fly to different Chinese cities. aerodynamics, advanced materials and Pratt & He said that the government has set a target to Whitney’s latest-generation PW1500G geared significantly increase Chinese arrivals during the turbofan engines to offer at least a 20 percent Visit Nepal campaign in 2020 with the goal of at- lower fuel burn per seat compared to previous tracting 2 million foreign tourists. generation aircraft. Currently, five Chinese carriers -- Air China, Chi- With a range of up to 3,200 nautical miles (5,020 na Southern, China Eastern, Sichuan Airlines km), the A220 offers the performance of larger and Tibet Airlines -- operate flights to Nepal. But single aisle aircraft. no Nepali carrier serves China. With an order book of over 400 aircraft to date, Minister Rabindra Adhikari met his Chinese the A220 has all the credentials to win the lion’s counterpart Luo Shugang and requested him to share of the 100- to 150-seat aircraft market. NEPAL, CAMBODIA SLATED TO SIGN ASA ON NOVEMBER 30 Keeping in mind the government’s announce- KATHMANDU: Nepal and Cambodia are sched- ment of ‘Visit Nepal Year 2020’ to garner glob- uled to sign a bilateral air services agreement al attention towards Nepal in bringing 2 million (ASA) on November 30 to boost connectivity tourists, the event highlighted Nepal’s many between two countries. The Ministry of Culture, tourism attractions: its unique geography with Tourism and Civil Aviation said that the ASA rich diversity in flora and fauna; the country’s would be signed during the Cambodian Prime rich cultural heritage sites; its establishment as Minister Hun Sen visit to Nepal. a renowned Hinduism and Buddhism circuit and Suresh Acharya, joint secretary at the ministry, its popularity as an ultimate adventure destina- said that preparations are underway to sign the tion. ASA. So far, Nepal has signed air services agreements Furthermore, HAN shared how Lonely Planet, with 38 countries. a leading source in global tourism, has ranked The ASA is expected to facilitate movement of Kathmandu number 5 out of 10 in must visit pilgrims from Cambodia, a Buddhist nation, to destinations of 2018 and how the Nepal tourism Lumbini – birthplace of Buddha. community will continue striving to promote Ne- “This agreement will help bring in more tourists pal as a prime tourist destination. from Cambodia, increase our capacity and en- hance healthy competition, and help in meeting HAN also underlined the importance of the pri- our objective of bringing in 2 million tourists by vate sector to capitalize on this opportunity to 2020,” said Acharya. reap the colossal benefits that the industry has With expectations that the Gautam Buddha In- to offer. ternational Airport in Bhairahawa will begin operations by 2019, there are more foreign air- line companies that are willing to fly to Nepal at EXPERIENCE NEPAL IN CITM, CHI- present. NA Recently, Nepal and Thailand had signed a re- vised ASA boosting the number of weekly flights KATHMANDU: The 20th edition of China Inter- frequency from 10 to 28. national Travel Mart (CITM) 2018 was held in Shanghai, China from Nov 16 to 18. HAN, NTB HIGHLIGHTS NEPAL IN Hosted by Civil Aviation Administration of China BENGALURU and the Shanghai Municipal People’s Govern- ment, CITM 2018 attracted 2,245 booths with KATHMANDU: In a bid to promote Nepal, the 1,542 domestic exhibitors and 703 overseas ex- Hotel Association Nepal (HAN) in association hibitors hailing from 107 countries and regions. with Nepal Tourism Board (NTB), held a busi- In addition to cultural promotion and presen- ness to business (B2B) meeting and Nepal Pre- tation by various destinations from across the sentation Programme in Bengaluru, India on No- globe, about 573 overseas buyers from Europe, vember 19. US and Asia met with more than 1000 sellers in the 3 days of the event. The objective was to bring together eminent per- sonalities from tourism communities from both Since its inception in 1998, CITM has in the pro- India and Nepal, especially to enhance business cess of 20 years assisted in the development networks and find business opportunities in the and the growth of China’s tourism industry. field of tourism, the HAN said in a press state- ment. CITM has continuously improved with the time and innovation and has developed into one of the largest and most influential tourism profes- sional trade fairs in the Asia Pacific region. It has built an important stage and created platform and opportunity for developing international and domestic tourism cooperation. Airways topped the list of carriers with the high- est number of passengers. Jet, which operates China is now 2nd largest inbound market for three flights to Delhi and two flights to Mumbai Nepal. Chinese tourists are attracted to Ne- daily, flew 336,665 passengers in the first nine pal for the natural and cultural experience that months of this year, recording a drop of 2.99 Nepal has to offer. Chinese tourists are mostly percent. interested in leisure tours and travel in groups with Kathmandu valley, Pokhara, Chitwan and Nepal Airlines came second with a passenger Lumbini, the birth place of Buddha being their carriage growth of 12.06 percent. It flew 315,861 choice of visit. passengers during the review period.

This year, the Chinese tourist grew by a whop- The growth rate of Nepal Airlines has increased ping 48 percent till September as compared to after it inducted two Airbus A330 jets into its in- the same period in 2017. According to the statis- ternational fleet. The statistics show that Nepal tics of the Department of Immigration, 109,497 Airlines commands a 10.15 percent share of the tourists have so far visited Nepal (air arrival) till international passenger market. September as compared to 73,607 in 2017. Doha-based Qatar Airways saw the strongest Nepal Tourism Board participated in CITM 2018 passenger growth reaching the third spot in along with five private sector companies from terms of passenger carriage. The airline flew Nepal. 291,459 passengers, up 35.03 percent in the re- view period. TIA CLOCKS DOUBLE-DIGIT IN- TERNATIONAL PASSENGER Low-cost carrier Fly Dubai stood fourth, flying 249,631 passengers, up 14.06 percent. Indi- GROWTH an national flag carrier Indian Airlines posted a strong passenger growth of 55.76 percent in KATHMANDU: Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan Inter- the first nine months of this year. It flew 174,637 national Airport (TIA) recorded a 12.51 percent passengers. international passenger growth in the first nine months of this year. Nepali carrier Himalaya Airlines carried 167,176 passengers in the first nine months of this year, According to TIA, 3.1 million travellers passed recording a healthy growth of 88.29 percent as through the airport during the period Janu- compared to the same period last year. ary-September, up year-on-year. Passenger traffic at Nepal’s sole international Passenger carriage by Air Arabia and Thai Air- aerial gateway has been growing since 2003. ways dropped 26.40 percent to 160,086 passen- There was an 8 percent drop in passenger traffic gers and 1.83 percent to 124,221 passengers, in 2015 when the country was struck by a severe respectively. Similarly, Oman Air saw its pas- earthquake. senger growth drop by 6.67 percent to 122,208 individuals. Aircraft movement also grew 2.79 percent to 24,926 flights in the first nine months of this year. Malaysia-based low cost carrier Malindo Air Currently, 27 foreign airlines and three Nepali recorded a passenger carriage growth of 13.69 carriers connect Kathmandu with international percent. It flew 124,416 passengers in the first destinations. The Nepali skies recorded an aver- nine months of 2018. age 92 international flight movements daily.

A breakdown by airline shows that India’s Jet