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Wonder at Dresden – Reconstructed and Restored

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Wonder at Dresden – Reconstructed and Restored EYE ON TRAVEL BY MARYALICIA POST While you’re there: The Frauenkirche is open to visitors. Consult Wonder at Dresden – www.frauenkirche-dresden.de for details about concerts and services. The Zwinger opening hours are 10am to 6pm, closed reconstructed and restored Mondays. Telephone: +49 (0)351-491 42000.Website: www.skd-dresden.de. Pillnitz Palace is, in fact, three palaces.The Waterside Palace in the Chinese style is closed Tuesdays; the Hillside Palace is closed Mondays; the New Palace is open daily. In the magnificent park, under a protective housing, stands a 250-year-old camellia, nine metres high. It produces some 35,000 crimson blooms from mid-February to mid-April. Pillnitz is open daily from 1 May to 31 October from 10:00 to 18:00. For details, visit: www.schloesser-dresden.de. The Historic Green Vault in the Residence Castle is open daily, except Tuesdays, from 10am to 7pm.The last admittance is 18:00.Ticket reservations, which are necessary, are available online from www.skd-dresden.de. Ticket reservations are not necessary for the New Green Vault.Those tickets are available at the reception desk. Opening hours are the same as those for the Historic Green Vault. Dresden is a city of wonders – not the cruise on an historic paddleboat is a particularly fine way Getting there: least of which is its being there at all to visit Pillnitz and the palace, renowned for its Chinese- In about 2 1/2 hours by train from Berlin, you arrive in style lacquered furniture in the royal apartments as well Norman Foster’s light-filled reincarnation of Dresden’s Most of the old town (80 per cent destroyed by World as August the Strong’s throne and his silver furniture. Central Station. Don’t despair of Dresden as you make War II firebombing) has been meticulously It takes three days to do Dresden justice, but no your way to the Old Town from here; the area around reconstructed.The high point of the restoration came in matter how long or short the stay, don’t miss the Green the train station is post-war Soviet town planning at its 2005 with the reconsecration of the Frauenkirche, the Vault, one of Europe’s most sumptuous treasure worst. Lutheran church at the city’s heart. chambers.The famous collection of the Dukes of Saxony Erected between 1726 and 1743, its dome collapsed has only recently been reinstalled in its historic home in Staying there: on the morning of 15 February 1945 as temperatures in the Dresden Royal Palace.The collection occupies two Consider the 5-star QF Hotel, a newly restored and the decimated city rose to 1,000 degrees Celsius.The exhibition areas: the New Green Vault, which opened in elegant hotel adjacent to the Frauenkirche on ruins of the Frauenkirche remained neglected by the East 2004 and the Historic Green Vault, which opened in Dresden’s Neumarkt.The hotel offers a weekend German government because it symbolised an anti-war 2006. special of a double room with champagne breakfast at monument. The treasures, having survived the war in mines and @229 per night for a minimum two nights. For After German reunification, however, the church’s castles, were seized by the Red Army Trophy reservations, telephone: +49-351-56 33 09-910, e-mail: restoration became a monument to international Commission after World War II.The treasures, which [email protected], or visit: www.qf-hotel.de. reconciliation. It took 10 years of intense labour, but the were returned in 1958, represent an overwhelming elegant baroque edifice looks again as it did when Bach abundance of baroque splendour in gold, silver, precious gems, enamel, ivory, bronze, and amber.The New Green gave an organ recital here in 1736. Birth of Dresden’s porcelain industry So does most of Dresden’s old town.This elegant city Vault presents more than 1,000 individual works of art, on a bend of the Elbe River reflects the refined taste of including the golden coffee set, the fabulous “Royal conceived in lust for white gold the Saxon princes who made Dresden their royal Household of the Grand Mogul,” and the largest green Some 300 years ago, the Saxon Elector Augustus the residence. diamond in the world. Strong developed what he called his “porcelain disease”. You can wander for hours window shopping and The extensively restored Historic Green Vault was Obsessed, he squandered immense sums on importing browsing for Dresden porcelain, glass, or antiques. where, between 1723 and 1730,August the Strong pieces from China and Japan, at that time the only Alternatively, you can watch the crowds go by from the expressed his wealth and power in a display of riches. countries in the world with the secret of the manufacture vantage point of a café table. From the Canaletto terrace Set off by the baroque architecture, 3,000 artworks of “white gold”. at the Westin stand against a background of intricately embellished In 1701,Augustus learned that a 19-year-old apothecary, Bellevue hotel, walls and on ornamental tables.The circular tour ends in Johann Friedrich Böttger, claimed to be able to turn lead you would have the Jewel Room with its unique historical collection of into gold.Augustus, badly in need of gold to underwrite his a view of the 18th century ceremonial jewellery. extravagant purchases of china, ordered the young man city’s skyline Wonderful, too, is the collection of porcelain in the brought to Dresden to demonstrate. Not surprisingly, just as was Zwinger Gallery. Some 20,000 Chinese, Japanese, and Böttger’s attempt failed.Augustus promptly imprisoned him painted by Meissen pieces are displayed on the walls essentially as in the Virgin’s Bastion – underneath today’s Bruhl Terrace. Canaletto’s August the Strong intended them to be. Most evocative Not content to let Böttger lay idle,Augustus set up a nephew, of the lengths to which the Saxon ruler’s passion for laboratory in the depths of the bastion and instructed Canaletto II. porcelain led him, are the so-called “Dragoon Vases.” Böttger to discover the formula for producing porcelain. If the Augustus exchanged 600 of his dragoons for 151 blue- Six tormented years later, in December 1707, Böttger weather is fine, and-white Chinese porcelain vessels owned by Frederick showed Augustus the results of the first successful firing of take a boat ride William I, King of Prussia. white porcelain. He gradually perfected his technique and on the Elbe The Zwinger in itself ranks as one of the most in 1709, officially presented his invention. River.The valley, grandiose examples of German baroque architecture. The next year,Augustus founded a porcelain factory in with its hillside This enormous edifice, a kind of Saxon Versailles, houses Dresden.To protect the secret of its production from vineyards, was a number of museums, including the Alte Meister, home industrial espionage, the factory and the dwellings of the declared a to Rafael’s Sistine Madonna.The originals of the two employees were eventually established at Albrechtsburg UNESCO cheeky cherubs that have become Dresden’s “signature” Castle in nearby Meissen.The Meissen Porcelain World Heritage are at the base of this serenely Manufactory is still there and makes a good day trip from Site in 2004.A beautiful painting. Dresden. For the full, fascinating story of the invention of European porcelain, read Janet Gleeson’s The Arcanum..
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