DOCSLIB.ORG

Mountaineer to Tell Story of Love, Loss

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
Mountaineer to Tell Story of Love, Loss A Hamilton College Student Publication, Clinton, NY October 22, 2009 Volume L Number 7 THE SPECTATOR Mountaineer to Tell Story of Love, Loss by Katrina Rabeler ’12 ternate between writing about their FEATURES WRITER own adventures on Adirondack Adventure, trips we take in the fall “You can either live your life in to the Adirondacks and the adven- fear or you can live your life.” These tures of others,” Isserman explained. were Jennifer Lowe-Anker’s words Isserman recalled that two years of advice to those trying to under- ago, when Conrad Anker came to stand how she kept her passion for speak about Alex Lowe, the Kirn- life and adventure alive when her er-Johnson auditorium was over- husband, Alex Lowe, was killed in flowing. This year, the class read PHOTO BY CHRIS EATON ’11 a mountaineering accident ten years Lowe-Anker’s book, and is looking Hamilton College Democrats and Republicans hold a debate on political is- ago. forward to her talk on campus. On Oct. 29 at 7 p.m., Jennifer “As the memoir of a climbing sues in the Red Pit of the Kirner-Johnson Building on Wednesday, Oct. 21. Lowe-Anker will be speaking in the widow, her book brings a different Kennedy Auditorium in the Science perspective to mountaineering lit- Center about her marriage to Alex erature, with an emphasis on rela- College Democrats, Republicans Lowe, one of the most well-known tionships, risk and loss, something American mountaineers. Lowe’s that you don’t often find in a run- career was filled with groundbreak- of-the-mill account of a triumphant Debate Health Care, Economy ing successes until his untimely expedition to this or that peak, and by Adam Fix ’13 ’12 downplayed the immediate ef- care of the United Kingdom as an death on Shishapangma in Tibet. I thought [it] would be interesting Lowe-Anker will also discuss for my students to read and discuss,” NEWS WRITER fects of the stimulus bill and instead example. asked how much of that stimulus Democrat Henry Anreder ’12 her life following the tragedy, in- Isserman said. While the politicians of today contributed to long-term economic began the foreign policy debate by cluding her marriage to her current Lowe-Anker’s story has it all: debate in the nation’s capital, the growth. The republicans argued for discussing President Obama’s dip- husband, Conrad Anker, who was mountains, love, tragedy, family politicians of tomorrow met in the the reduction of all corporate taxes lomatic efforts in the Middle East. Alex Lowe’s best friend. Jennifer and adventure. Her memoir recalls decidedly less glamorous Red Pit to five percent, claiming that such The democrats argued in favor Lowe-Anker is herself an accom- detail from her and her husbands’ of the Kirner-Johnson building for measures will create more jobs. In of Obama’s more diplomatic ap- plished mountain climber, and her lives. The title of her first and only two hours on Wednesday night for closing, Cheeseman claimed that proach in Iran while continuing to recent memoir, Forget Me Not, won book so far, Forget Me Not, comes the Hamilton College Democrats “we need to address long-term draw down military forces in Iraq. the 2008 National Outdoor Book from her and Alex Lowe’s favorite and Republicans debate. Moder- economic growth as opposed to They also praised Obama’s strong Award for literature. flower. In one of his letters to her, ated by Professor of Government short term amelioration of current support of the Israel-Palestine two- Lowe-Anker is coming to Alex once begged Jennifer, who Sharon Rivera, the debate focused problems.” state solution. The republicans saw campus on the invitation of James received her bachelor’s degree in on the key issues affecting America On the issue of health care their party’s foreign policy in a L. Ferguson Professor of History art, to paint the flower for him. today. reform, democrat Will Leubsdorf state of transition, claiming that Maurice Isserman. Each year, Pro- “My book is a memoir about Opening the economic de- ’10 said that health care takes up 9/11 prompted President Bush fessor Isserman brings an author of my life,” explained Lowe-Anker, “I bate, the democrats began by dis- 18 percent of the GDP, and 62 into the aggressive, intervention- adventure literature to campus for lived [with him] for 18 years before cussing the budget surplus and percent of personal bankruptcies ist strategy. They argued for the his Adventure Writing 111 class. economic growth of the Clinton are health care related. Leubsdorf importance of an active yet less “The students in the class al- see Lowe-Anker, page 7 administration, claiming that stressed the importance of a pub- visible American presence, specifi- policies such as the Bush tax cuts lic insurance option as well as an cally the use of the military to col- and Iraq War reversed that over- emphasis on preventive care to lect information and plan strategy all trend. According to the demo- curb the “skyrocketing” costs of rather than keep peace. crats, at current rates, the national health care. In response, repub- The final topic of debate dealt debt will reach 300 percent of the lican Brandon Moore ’12 quoted with the limits of federal authority gross domestic product (GDP) by Congressman Barney Frank (D): with democrats claiming that re- the year 2050. They asserted that “It is impossible for public and cent years produced an explosion the economic stimulus bill passed private options to coexist.” Moore of governmental power that can- under the Obama administration argued that private insurers could not be truly undone. Republicans is starting to reverse what they never compete with a public health focused on preserving power of described as a “very unstable bud- option, and socialized medicine the states rather than the federal get situation.” Representing the would inevitably lower the quality government, with the ultimate goal republicans, Thomas Cheeseman of care, using the universal health- of “optimizing human happiness.” HamPoll: First-Years’ College Expectations, Experience Differ by Kye Lippold ’10 diverse than their communities play a major role in campus social and Bret Turner ’13 at home. life, 64 percent thought it played HAMPOLL MEMBERS The survey received 126 re- a major role after they arrived at sponses, which equates to a 26 Hamilton. Similarly, 36 percent WWW.BANFFCENTRE.CA A survey of first-year stu- percent response rate. The survey of students expected fraternities Mountaineer and writer Jennifer Lowe-Anker will speak dents conducted last month by sample was self-selected, so re- and sororities to play a moderate in the Science Center Aud. on Thursday, Oct. 29 at 7 p.m. HamPoll observed that first-years sults may differ from the overall or major role on campus before generally found the transition to first-year population. arrival, and, after living on cam- OPINION: Faculty Faceoff: Ambrose vs. Rabinowitz 4 college life easy. However, al- First-years indicated that pus, 66 percent concluded they cohol and Greek life occupied a alcohol and Greek organizations played a moderate or major role. FEATURES: Campus focus on bike accommodations 6 much greater role in the campus dominated the social scene more Marijuana, other illegal drugs A&E: A mindbending campus experience 8 social scene than incoming first- than they expected before they and casual sex were all about 10 SPORTS: Water Polo treds water in inaugural season 15 years expected, and they gener- arrived. While 37 percent of first- INSIDE ally found Hamilton to be more years initially expected alcohol to see Survey, page 2 October 22, 2009 Page 1 NEWS THE SPECTATOR NESCAC NEWS (And Colgate, too) by Amanda Jordan ’10 NEWS WRITER Colgate University Military veterans can now attend Colgate University without paying any tuition fees. Housing, books and supplies will also be provided free of charge. Veterans need to have served for at least three years of active duty since Sept. 10, 2001, or for at least thirty days before discharge for service-related injuries to qualify. As part of the “Yellow Ribbon” program, a component of the GI Bill, Colgate has made an agreement with the U.S. Department of Veterans Affairs. Under the cur- rent program, the government will pay for the most expensive GRAPHIC BY KYE LIPPOLD ’10 tuition at a state public school. However, this is not enough money to cover tuition at many private schools. The college has agreed to contribute half of the difference between the Survey Shows First-Years See state school tuition and theirs, with the Department of Veter- ans Affairs matching the same amount. Hamilton as “More Diverse” Connecticut College from HamPoll, page 1 reporting difficulty. Students liv- This distinction also applied ing in different dorms on campus to respondents’ views of their The Department of Justice gave $643,000 in grants to Con- necticut College and Yale University on Oct. 16 to address dents expected (see the full chart reported generally the same level groups of friends. Students of domestic violence issues and help protect women on campus. above). of ease in making friends relative color and varsity athletes were The money was deemed necessary after the death of Yale stu- When asked about their ex- to their expectations. more likely to view their friends dent Annie Le last month. The Office on Violence Against perience adjusting to college life Respondents from the first- at Hamilton as less diverse than Women and the National Institute of Justice, two divisions of overall, 82 percent of first-year year class reported strong study their groups of friends at home the Department of Justice, awarded the federal funds.
Load more

Recommended publications
  • Post-Monsoon in the Nepal Himalaya. in the Post-Monsoon in The
    Post-Monsoon in the Nepal Himalaya. In the post-monsoon in the Nepal Himalaya, the sum­ mer monsoon rains and snowfall continued throughout September and into early October, several weeks beyond the normal end of the rainy season, only to be followed by a few mid- October days of more heavy snowfall resulting from a cyclone nearby in India. Many teams on Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam, Baruntse and other mountains with very limited time at their dis­ posal had to retreat from what they considered unsafe avalanche conditions or simply from snow too deep to manage to get through. There was very little success on Nepal’s eight 8000ers. Even on Cho Oyu, where success rates are often high, 21 expeditions did some climbing but just nine of them sent anyone to the top and all followed the normal route on the northwest side. The other 12 teams—includ­ ing cautiously-led commercial ones—withdrew well below the summit because of dangerous snow conditions. And those who were successful were able to reach the summit only from September 26-October 1 ; before and after those dates, snow conditions were very bad. One Japanese mountaineer, Toshiyuki Kitamura, tried to solo Cho Oyu’s seldom-climbed southwest face but had to abandon his attempt at 7400 meters in soft snow under a hot sun that defeated him. He moved over to the standard route and followed teammates to the top five days after their ascent. No one even attempted Annapurna I. Only one team out of seven (a predominantly American group that included Ginette Harrison; see below) had any summiters on Dhaulagiri I.
    [Show full text]
  • Scaling the World's Most Challenging Summits Is Dangerous to Some. To
    SCALING THE WORLD’S MOST CHALLENGING SUMMITS IS DANGEROUS TO SOME. TO DAVE HAHN, IT’S JUST A MATTER OF WALKING UPHILL A LITTLE LONGER THAN USUAL. KING SHEER FEAR OF THE HILLBY MICHAEL HAEDERLE photo: matthew turley matthew photo: 74 discovery channel magazine.com september 2009 75 WAS A LONG, COLD NIGHT IN After this first and most harrow- ROUTE TO THE TOP MAY 1994. CROUCHED ALONE ing success, Hahn went on to climb Hahn grew up in Kingston, New York, IIN A SNOWTSTORM 8,500 Everest a further ten times, more where his father, a former climber in than any other non-Sherpa, estab- Yosemite National Park, took him METRES UP ON THE NORTHEAST lishing himself as one of the world’s camping in the nearby Catskill and RIDGE OF MOUNT EVEREST leading high-altitude climbers. The Adirondack Mountains. As a teenag- lanky 47-year-old has also conquered er he visited his mother’s hometown – without oXYgen – DAVE the 4,897-metre Vinson Massif, the of Albuquerque, New Mexico, and HAHN HUNG ON FOR FIRST highest peak in Antarctica, a record scaled the craggy 3,255-metre Sandia LIGHT, DESPERATELY WILLING 26 times. Add to that 18 ascents of Crest. He returned to New Mexico af- Mount McKinley (also known as De- ter college to work as a ski instructor, HIMSELF TO STAY AWAKE AFTER nali) in Alaska and more than 250 but had an epiphany in 1985 when he 48 HOURS OF CONTINUOUS scalings of Mount Rainier in the US enrolled in a mountaineering course state of Washington and you have run by the Mount Rainier guide ser- CLIMBING.
    [Show full text]
  • Climbs and Expeditions, 1988
    Climbs and Expeditions, 1988 The Editorial Board expresses its deep gratitude to the many people who have done so much to make this section possible. We cannot list them all here, but we should like to give particular thanks to the following: Kamal K. Guha, Harish Kapadia, Soli S. Mehta, H.C. Sarin, P.C. Katoch, Zafarullah Siddiqui, Josef Nyka, Tsunemichi Ikeda, Trevor Braham, Renato More, Mirella Tenderini. Cesar Morales Arnao, Vojslav Arko, Franci Savenc, Paul Nunn, Do@ Rotovnik, Jose Manuel Anglada, Jordi Pons, Josep Paytubi, Elmar Landes, Robert Renzler, Sadao Tambe, Annie Bertholet, Fridebert Widder, Silvia Metzeltin Buscaini. Luciano Ghigo, Zhou Zheng. Ying Dao Shui, Karchung Wangchuk, Lloyd Freese, Tom Elliot, Robert Seibert, and Colin Monteath. METERS TO FEET Unfortunately the American public seems still to be resisting the change from feet to meters. To assist readers from the more enlightened countries, where meters are universally used, we give the following conversion chart: meters feet meters feet meters feet meters feet 3300 10,827 4700 15,420 6100 20,013 7500 24,607 3400 11,155 4800 15,748 6200 20,342 7600 24,935 3500 11,483 4900 16,076 6300 20,670 7700 25,263 3600 11,811 5000 16,404 6400 20,998 7800 25,591 3700 12,139 5100 16,733 6500 21,326 7900 25,919 3800 12,467 5200 17.061 6600 21,654 8000 26,247 3900 12,795 5300 7,389 6700 21,982 8100 26,575 4000 13,124 5400 17,717 6800 22,3 10 8200 26,903 4100 13,452 5500 8,045 6900 22,638 8300 27,231 4200 13,780 5600 8,373 7000 22,966 8400 27,560 4300 14,108 5700 8,701 7100 23,294 8500 27,888 4400 14,436 5800 19,029 7200 23,622 8600 28,216 4500 14,764 5900 9,357 7300 23,951 8700 28,544 4600 15,092 6000 19,685 7400 24,279 8800 28,872 NOTE: All dates in this section refer to 1988 unless otherwise stated.
    [Show full text]
  • The American Alpine Club Guidebook to Membership Alpinist Magazine
    THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP ALPINIST MAGAZINE ith each print edition of Alpinist, we aim to create a work of art, paying attention to every detail— from our extended photo captions to our carefully Wselected images and well-crafted stories. Inside our pages, we strive to offer our readers an experience like that of exploratory climbing, a realm of words and images where they can wander, discover surprising new viewpoints, and encounter moments of excitement, humor, awe and beauty. By publishing the work of climbers from a wide range of ages, technical abilities, nations and cultures—united by their passion for adventure and wild places—we hope to reflect and enhance the sense of community within the climbing life. Over time, back issues have become collectors’ items, serving as historical references and ongoing inspirations. Like our readers, we believe that great writing and art about climbing demand the same boldness, commitment and vision as the pursuit itself. JOIN US. Exclusive AAC Member Pricing 1 Year - $29.95 | 2 Years - $54.95 Alpinist.com/AAC ALPINIST IS A PROUD PARTNER OF THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB Stay Connected! @AlpinistMag @Alpinist @AlpinistMag ALP_2019_AAC Ad FIN.indd 1 6/26/19 4:14 PM WELCOME, ALL 5 You Belong Here ARTIST SPOTLIGHT 8 Brooklyn Bell on Art for the In-betweens MEMBERSHIP THROUGH THE LENS 10 Inspiration, Delivered Directly NAVAJO RISING 23 An Indigenous Emergence Story WHEN WOMEN LEAD 27 Single Pitch Instructors for the 21st Century GLACIAL VIEWS 29 A Climate Scientist Reflects & Other Research Stories CLIMBERS FOR CLIMATE 32 Taking a Stand on Climate Change, Together 1CLIMB, INFINITE POTENTIAL 34 Kevin Jorgeson Breaks Down Walls by Building Them ON PUSHING 37 24 Hours Into the Black, the AAC Grief Fund AN ODE TO MOBILITY 40 The Range of Motion Project Tackles Cotopaxi YOSEMITE'S CAMP 4 43 The Center of the Climbing Universe REWIND THE CLIMB 47 The Tragedy of the 1932 American K2 Expedition BETA 48 Everything a Club Member Needs to Know PARTING SHOT 72 Jeremiah Watt on Travel & Life a Greg Kerzhner climbing Mr.
    [Show full text]
  • Genre Bending Narrative, VALHALLA Tells the Tale of One Man’S Search for Satisfaction, Understanding, and Love in Some of the Deepest Snows on Earth
    62 Years The last time Ken Brower traveled down the Yampa River in Northwest Colorado was with his father, David Brower, in 1952. This was the year his father became the first executive director of the Sierra Club and joined the fight against a pair of proposed dams on the Green River in Northwest Colorado. The dams would have flooded the canyons of the Green and its tributary, Yampa, inundating the heart of Dinosaur National Monument. With a conservation campaign that included a book, magazine articles, a film, a traveling slideshow, grassroots organizing, river trips and lobbying, David Brower and the Sierra Club ultimately won the fight ushering in a period many consider the dawn of modern environmentalism. 62 years later, Ken revisited the Yampa & Green Rivers to reflect on his father's work, their 1952 river trip, and how we will confront the looming water crisis in the American West. 9 Minutes. Filmmaker: Logan Bockrath 2010 Brower Youth Awards Six beautiful films highlight the activism of The Earth Island Institute’s 2011 Brower Youth Award winners, today’s most visionary and strategic young environmentalists. Meet Girl Scouts Rhiannon Tomtishen and Madison Vorva, 15 and 16, who are winning their fight to green Girl Scout cookies; Victor Davila, 17, who is teaching environmental education through skateboarding; Alex Epstein and Tania Pulido, 20 and 21, who bring urban communities together through gardening; Junior Walk, 21 who is challenging the coal industry in his own community, and Kyle Thiermann, 21, whose surf videos have created millions of dollars in environmentally responsible investments.
    [Show full text]
  • Pakistan 1999
    LINDSAY GRIFFIN & DAVID HAMILTON Pakistan 1999 Thanks are due to the Pakistan Ministry of Tourism, Xavier Eguskitza, andAsem Mustafa Awanfor their help in providing information. uring the summer of 1999 weather conditions in the Karakoram were Dunexceptional. Fine weather predominated from June to early July when the mid-summer deterioration set in a little earlier than usual. Unsettled conditions continued throughout late July, August and September when spells of stable weather alternated with violent storms and heavy precipitation. Ministry of Tourism statistics show that 64 expeditions received 69 permits to climb peaks over 6000m. A total of 37 permits were issued for the five 8000m peaks, resulting in 24 teams making successful ascents. The remaining 32 permits were issued to expeditions attempting 20 different peaks in the 6000m - 8000m range. Only 12 of these resulted in success. There were seven mountaineering fatalities; two on 8000m peaks and five on 7000m peaks. There was a noticeable increase in the number of expeditions visiting Pakistan despite fears that heightened tension along the Line of Control with India would cause some groups to cancel. The 8000m peaks again attracted the largest number of climbers. However there was a significant increase in the number of expeditions attempting technically challenging routes on 7000m peaks, particularly in the Hispar and Batura areas. Unfortunately few of these teams were successful. Almost 20 groups attempted high-standard big wall climbs, mostly in the Trango and Hushe areas, with a considerable amount of success. Japanese climbers were at the forefront of innovative developments on the high peaks of the Karakoram, while climbers from the USA, Germany, Spain, Italy, Norway and the Czech Republic led the way with big wall projects.
    [Show full text]
  • North America 2000
    KELLY CORDES / AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL North America 2000 ALASKA erhaps the epicentre of North American alpine climbing, Alaska Pcontinued to receive world-class ascents on big, difficult routes as well as repeats in blazing alpine style. On Denali, the 9000ft Czech Direct (initially climbed as a siege effort in 1986) received its second and third ascents, and quantum leaps in the definition of 'alpine style'. In May, Ben Gilmore and Kevin Mahoney repeated the massive route in alpine style in seven days, a fine feat of its own. Less than a month later, Steve House, Scott Backes and Mark Twight blitzed the route in 60 hours of climbing, sans bivvy gear. House claims 'It was my first world-class route' - a powerful statement from one of North America's top alpinists. They simul-climbed and soloed considerable amounts of the S.9 WI6 route, belaying thirty-one 60-metre pitches in their remarkable ascent. Also on Denali, Reality Ridge received its first solo from Robert Shonerd. Bart Paull and Fred Wilkinson, each a mere 20-years old, blazed the Cassin in S6 hours - a route requiring up to a week for many seasoned alpinists. An adventurous Canadian couple, Sacha Friedlin and Marie-Diane Cyr, hiked into the Alaska Range, climbed Foraker and Hunter, and Friedlin soloed Denali, before the pair hiked back out after approximately two hearty months. The profound Infinite Spur on Mt Foraker received its third and fourth ascents at more or less the same time over about one week in late May. The first team was veteran Alaska hardman Carl Tobin and the timeless alpine superhero Barry Blanchard, with 'the lads' close on their heels: Gren Hinton and Glen Deal, both in their early 20s.
    [Show full text]
  • Josh's Reading List
    Josh’s reading list I started my sabbatical with the hope of finishing 12 books during my 12 weeks of rest and rejuvenation. Apparently, I went a little overboard with 37 books! In alphabetical order, here is everything I read with short commentary and links to Amazon for more information. Alone on the Wall (Expanded edition) by Alex Honnold Alex Honnold recently climbed the 3,000 foot El Capitan wall in Yosemite without any rope or safety devices. This book describes his life and famous climbs. If you haven’t seen the movie “Free Solo,” in theaters now, skip the book and head straight for the theater. Authentic Happiness: Using the New Positive Psychology to Realize Your Potential for Lasting Fulfillment by Martin E. P. Seligman I’ve been a big fan of Dr. Seligman’s work since studying him in my Political Psychology course in college. This work details how to find your “significant strengths” in life and use them to live a meaningful life. Bokotola by Millard Fuller Millard Fuller, the founder of Habitat for Humanity International alongside his wife Linda, details their work in Africa building housing before Habitat even began. A very interesting read about the roots of our beloved organization. Born A Crime: Stories from a South African Childhood by Trevor Noah This book pleasantly surprised me. I expected to be reading a tell-all of how Trevor Noah became the star and host of the Daily Show on Comedy Central, but instead it’s a moving portrait of growing up in South Africa during Apartheid with an abusive father.
    [Show full text]
  • Denali National Park & Preserve 1995
    DENALI NATIONAL PARK & PRESERVE 1995 MOUNTAINEERING SUMMARY In 1995, 1,220 mountaineers registered to climb Mount McKinley. This is the second highest number ever to attempt Mount McKinley. (The record year was in 1994 with 1,277 climbers.) A total of 523 climbers reached the summit of Mt. McKinley this season, representing a 43% success rate. Weather during the 1995 climbing season was stormy with high winds and few summit days. The marginal weather conditions prevented many expeditions from reaching the summit and was a large factor in several accidents. The season concluded with a total of six fatalities and involved 12 separate major mountaineering rescues in the Alaska Range. Costs incurred by the National Park Service for Mount McKinley and Mount Foraker search and rescue (SAR) missions totaled $126,246. The military costs associated with these SAR missions was $292,416. This totals $418,662 for SAR costs. Despite a reduction in the number of rescues, these costs were higher than the previous years due to lengthy rescues at high altitudes. The military was needed to assist on several high altitude rescues. There was a decrease in the number of international climbers this year. In 1994 they represented 45% of the total number of climbers attempting Mt. McKinley. In 1995, their numbers dropped to 38% of the total. Increased investigation and enforcement of illegal guiding regulations were more than likely the contributing factors to this decline. NEW REGULATIONS The National Park Service implemented a program designed to both enhance the educational outreach for Denali mountaineers and to defray the costs associated with managing mountaineering activities on Mt.
    [Show full text]
  • I Doubt If Anyone Would Claim to Enjoy Life at High Altitudes— Enjoy, That Is, in the Ordinary Sense of the Word
    T I doubt if anyone would claim to enjoy life at high altitudes— enjoy, that is, in the ordinary sense of the word. There is a certain grim satisfaction to be derived from struggling upwards, however slowly; but the bulk of one's time is necessarily spent in the ex- treme squalor of a high camp, when even this solace is lacking. Smoking is impossible; eating tends to make one vomit; the neces- sity of reducing weight to a bare minimum forbids the importation of literature beyond that supplied by the labels on tins of food; sardine oil, condensed milk and treacle spill themselves all over the place; except for the briefest moments, during which one is not usually in a mood for aesthetic enjoyment, there is nothing to look at but the bleak confusion inside the tent and the scaly, bearded countenance of one's companion—fortunately the noise of the wind usually drowns out his stuffy breathing; worst of all is the feeling of complete helplessness and inability to deal with any emergency that might arise. I used to try to console myself with the thought that a year ago I would have been thrilled by the very idea of taking part in our present adventure, a prospect that had then seemed like an impossible dream; but altitude has the same effect on the mind as upon the body, one's intellect becomes dull and unresponsive, and my only desire was to finish the wretched job and to get down to a more reasonable clime. Eric Shipton Upon That Mountain ust before dawn on Tuesday, April 16, after resting for two U days at Base Camp, we headed up into the Icefall to begin our second acclimatization excursion.
    [Show full text]
  • AMC Boston Mountaineering Committee
    AMC Boston Mountaineering Committee Ice Climbing Program Handbook Updated 2014 1 Table of Contents First Weekend Curriculum ........................................................................................................................... 3 Waterfall Ice: Fundamentals of Ice Climbing and Anchors ...................................................................... 3 1) Water Ice Techniques ...................................................................................................................... 3 2) Anchors: Ice Screw Placement and Removal, and Other Stuff ....................................................... 4 Alpine & Multi-pitch Techniques ............................................................................................................... 5 1) Self-Belay ......................................................................................................................................... 5 2) Self-Arrest (Reminder: No crampons during this drill) ..................................................................... 5 3) Uphill French Techniques: ............................................................................................................... 5 4) Down-climb Techniques: .................................................................................................................. 5 5) Belay and Roped Travel Techniques ............................................................................................... 5 6) Rappel Anchor Techniques .............................................................................................................
    [Show full text]
  • Copy of ALCF Letterhead
    Dear Favre-Leuba, On behalf of the Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation and the Khumbu Climbing Center, we are thrilled to be partnering with Favre-Leuba and Alpenglow Expeditions to auction the Bivouac 9000 watch that Adrian Ballinger wore to the summit of Everest. Knowing that the entire proceeds from this auction will support the Sherpa and indigenous climbing community directly is a most meaningful outcome. This spring as hundreds of mountaineers look to join the ranks of those who have stood at the highest point on Earth, the indigenous people of Providing direction and financial Nepal are ready for the Everest season. Lodges are stocked in Khumbu as support to sustainable, villagers prepare for trekking and climbing groups that spur and sustain community-based humanitarian their economy. High altitude workers have trained, competed for and programs around the world. secured their jobs to porter, guide and support the climbing teams who endeavor to attain the summits of Everest and her sister peaks. For sixteen years, the Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation has supported BOARD OF DIRECTORS the Khumbu Climbing Center to increase the safety margin of Nepali Jenni Lowe-Anker climbers and high altitude workers through education for technical Conrad Anker Sten Anderson climbing skills, wilderness first aid and state of the art rescue Pete Athans techniques. In spring of 2018, there were over 500 Nepali working on the Jon Krakauer slopes of Everest who had received training from the Khumbu Climbing Chris Lohss Center. Steve Mock Steve Swenson Gordon Wiltsie On June 13th of 2019, we will open the doors to the earthquake resistant Dawa Yangzum KCC building in Phortse, Khumbu that will honor all Sherpa and Nepali climbers, past present and future.
    [Show full text]