Himalayan Times

Total Page:16

File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb

Himalayan Times CMYK THE HIMALAYAN TIMES, JULY 27, 2019 www.thehimalayantimes.com PAGE 7 The HimalayaON S A T U R D A Y n KCC facility boasts the world’s highest Walltopia indoor training wall at 3,840 metres Photos: Courtesy Amrit Ale Hope springs from ashes of tragedy A death on a mountain urges this US duo to build a training facility that will ensure safety of climbing Sherpas and high altitude workers Rajan Pokhrel According to Jennifer, losing the Himalayas. Most of the Kathmandu Alex she likened to what it must teachers now are Nepalis.” be like when a member of any The KCC is home to the tech- t was in 2002 and an climbing Sherpa family dies. nical climbing school and gym, American couple trekked In 2003, Jennifer, who later the Jon Johnston Mountaineer- to the village of Phortse married Conrad, launched a ing Library, and the Magic Yeti in Solukhumbu district project to build the ‘Khumbu Children’s Library which are to begin their climbing Climbing Centre’ in Phortse overseen by the ALCF and KCC activities on the world’s through the Alex Lowe Charita- board. The libraries have a col- Ihighest mountain. ble Foundation (ALCF). “The lection of over 1,200 mountain- “We had decided to do some Foundation was set up immedi- eering books donated by Ameri- ice climbing at Phortse before ately after Alex’s death while its can Alpine Club member Bill heading to the Everest Base first project was carried out in Felstiner of California. The med- Camp along with our Sherpa Mongolia,” she added. ical clinic inside the KCC facility guides,” recounted Jennifer According to Conrad, he be- is being overseen by the Himala- Lowe-Anker adding that all the came close to Jennifer after yan Trust. It has also been serv- Sherpa guides were fascinated Alex’s death, who he married ing as a community centre and watching them climb. later. “We saw what happens earthquake refuge for the village Jennifer, an artist and author, when someone responsible for a of Phortse at an altitude of above talked to Conrad Anker, her family loses his life,” said Con- 3,800m. In recent years, there climbing partner, to contribute rad, a renowned climber who were over 500 KCC graduates something to the Khumbu peo- located George Mallory’s body working on Mt Everest in the ple, from which they could learn on Mt Everest, and added, main climbing season. safe climbing techniques. “So, our goal was to make climb- “It is our hope that the KCC “The Sherpa guides’ reaction ing safer.” will thrive under direction of the inspired us to give back to the lo- They both knew that there local KCC and Phortse leader- cals,” she shared. was tremendous loss of life ship,” said Jennifer. Hence, the concept for the amongst the Sherpa community Amrit Ale, Phunuru Sherpa, Khumbu Climbing Centre (KCC) on Mt Everest. “We knew that Ang Dawa Sherpa and Danuru was conceived. “But, frankly one of the main reasons behind Sherpa will be managing and speaking, the idea for KCC the tragic incidents could be at- Courtesy: Karl Swingle Media overseeing the facility as its stemmed from a tragedy,” said tributed to lack of proper train- community-based programme. pal Treks, who provided logistic quake,” Jennifer shared. “While KCC’s earthquake resistant doors were opened on June 12, Jennifer while talking to this dai- ing for high altitude workers.” To materalise the KCC project, support to the KCC facility. the volunteers carried out con- and passive solar building which was also a celebration to ly in Kathmandu. Jennifer’s hus- The Montana-based couple ALCF brought together the In 2007, two families — Lhak- struction work of KCC, we features training walls, library recognise years of planning, band Alex Lowe, who was a launched the KCC project with a who’s who in the climbing world pa Dorje, Nawang and Karma added English language pro- and medical clinic building and rebuilding, learn- world-renowned alpine climber, mission to increase the safety including the world’s foremost Tsering, and Panuru and Pasang gramme because proper com- ing, development, growth and had died in an avalanche on margin for Nepali climbers and high-altitude mountaineer Pe- Diki generously donated land munication in any dangerous gratitude, countless hours spent Sishapangma in Tibet when he high altitude workers by encour- ter Athans, Jon Krakauer, an ac- for the KCC building, while from situations is important.” tude workers during the climb- by volunteers from around was there with Conrad on a ski aging responsible climbing complished mountaineer and 2008-2010, graduate students Jennifer believes that English ing season,” Conrad said, add- the world, local workers, tre- expedition in 1999. practices in a supportive and renowned author of Into Thin from the Montana State Univer- is the lingua franca in most of ing that it has not only been sup- mendously talented craftsmen Air and Into the Wild, Steve sity School of Architecture the mountains. “Lila, wife of porting them but also safe- and women. Mock, Steve Swenson, Chris launched and completed a de- Barry Bishop, also trekked to the guarding the indigenous climb- It is a labour of love for a com- Lohss, Sten Anderson and Gor- sign collaboration with Phortse Everest region to open English ing community in Nepal. munity extending far beyond don Wiltsie among others. village under the direction of language class.” Each winter for two weeks, the terraced fields and lives of “Over 16 years, we have seen Prof Mike Everts. According to Jennifer, the technical climbing skills are those instrumental to KCC’s es- more than 1,300 graduates from “Dean Soderberg from the US KCC facility, built with a cost of taught along with English lan- tablishment. It’s also a celebra- KCC as they learned technical oversaw the initial ground- Rs 74 million, was a collabora- guage, mountain safety, rescue, tion of opportunity for a climbing skills including belay breaking and construction tive effort. and wilderness first aid. “In the whole new generation of climb- techniques, knot tying and how work. Completion of the facility “Its training is safeguarding all beginning, our instructors were ers as well as traders — men and to use ice tools, vital to their was in phases with a four year Himalayan climbers who em- qualified western climbers and women, artists, lodge owners, safety,” the couple shared. push since the 2015 earth- ploy Nepali guides and high alti- guides who had experience in farmers, teachers, specialists, Formally opened on June 12, among others. KCC has a new earthquake re- A lot of volunteers worked for sistant and passive solar build- the project over the past years. ing with outdoor training walls, Now the community owns it. walltopia indoor climbing wall, There is no debt, and the build- mountaineering library and a ing is completely paid for. medical clinic. “I also must stress how grate- “The KCC facility boasts the ful we are to the many western highest Walltopia indoor train- volunteer instructors and build- ing wall in the world at 3,840 ers who came to contribute time metres while the wall was de- or oversee the construction,” signed by Noah Bigwood of Mo- said Jennifer. mentun Gyms and Ryan Walters Phillip Henderson who has 20 who constructed it onsite,” Con- years experience at the National rad informed. Outdoor Leadership School Ferrying some of the con- will be onsite this coming Sep- struction materials from Kath- tember to help initiate the busi- mandu was quite challenging, ness plan and operations, recounted Jiban Ghimire, Man- Jennifer, also the ALCF Presi- aging Director at Shangri-La Ne- dent, concluded. Conrad Anker and Performers at the formal Jennifer Lowe-Anker opening of KCC on June 12.
Recommended publications
  • Post-Monsoon in the Nepal Himalaya. in the Post-Monsoon in The
    Post-Monsoon in the Nepal Himalaya. In the post-monsoon in the Nepal Himalaya, the sum­ mer monsoon rains and snowfall continued throughout September and into early October, several weeks beyond the normal end of the rainy season, only to be followed by a few mid- October days of more heavy snowfall resulting from a cyclone nearby in India. Many teams on Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam, Baruntse and other mountains with very limited time at their dis­ posal had to retreat from what they considered unsafe avalanche conditions or simply from snow too deep to manage to get through. There was very little success on Nepal’s eight 8000ers. Even on Cho Oyu, where success rates are often high, 21 expeditions did some climbing but just nine of them sent anyone to the top and all followed the normal route on the northwest side. The other 12 teams—includ­ ing cautiously-led commercial ones—withdrew well below the summit because of dangerous snow conditions. And those who were successful were able to reach the summit only from September 26-October 1 ; before and after those dates, snow conditions were very bad. One Japanese mountaineer, Toshiyuki Kitamura, tried to solo Cho Oyu’s seldom-climbed southwest face but had to abandon his attempt at 7400 meters in soft snow under a hot sun that defeated him. He moved over to the standard route and followed teammates to the top five days after their ascent. No one even attempted Annapurna I. Only one team out of seven (a predominantly American group that included Ginette Harrison; see below) had any summiters on Dhaulagiri I.
    [Show full text]
  • Scaling the World's Most Challenging Summits Is Dangerous to Some. To
    SCALING THE WORLD’S MOST CHALLENGING SUMMITS IS DANGEROUS TO SOME. TO DAVE HAHN, IT’S JUST A MATTER OF WALKING UPHILL A LITTLE LONGER THAN USUAL. KING SHEER FEAR OF THE HILLBY MICHAEL HAEDERLE photo: matthew turley matthew photo: 74 discovery channel magazine.com september 2009 75 WAS A LONG, COLD NIGHT IN After this first and most harrow- ROUTE TO THE TOP MAY 1994. CROUCHED ALONE ing success, Hahn went on to climb Hahn grew up in Kingston, New York, IIN A SNOWTSTORM 8,500 Everest a further ten times, more where his father, a former climber in than any other non-Sherpa, estab- Yosemite National Park, took him METRES UP ON THE NORTHEAST lishing himself as one of the world’s camping in the nearby Catskill and RIDGE OF MOUNT EVEREST leading high-altitude climbers. The Adirondack Mountains. As a teenag- lanky 47-year-old has also conquered er he visited his mother’s hometown – without oXYgen – DAVE the 4,897-metre Vinson Massif, the of Albuquerque, New Mexico, and HAHN HUNG ON FOR FIRST highest peak in Antarctica, a record scaled the craggy 3,255-metre Sandia LIGHT, DESPERATELY WILLING 26 times. Add to that 18 ascents of Crest. He returned to New Mexico af- Mount McKinley (also known as De- ter college to work as a ski instructor, HIMSELF TO STAY AWAKE AFTER nali) in Alaska and more than 250 but had an epiphany in 1985 when he 48 HOURS OF CONTINUOUS scalings of Mount Rainier in the US enrolled in a mountaineering course state of Washington and you have run by the Mount Rainier guide ser- CLIMBING.
    [Show full text]
  • Climbs and Expeditions, 1988
    Climbs and Expeditions, 1988 The Editorial Board expresses its deep gratitude to the many people who have done so much to make this section possible. We cannot list them all here, but we should like to give particular thanks to the following: Kamal K. Guha, Harish Kapadia, Soli S. Mehta, H.C. Sarin, P.C. Katoch, Zafarullah Siddiqui, Josef Nyka, Tsunemichi Ikeda, Trevor Braham, Renato More, Mirella Tenderini. Cesar Morales Arnao, Vojslav Arko, Franci Savenc, Paul Nunn, Do@ Rotovnik, Jose Manuel Anglada, Jordi Pons, Josep Paytubi, Elmar Landes, Robert Renzler, Sadao Tambe, Annie Bertholet, Fridebert Widder, Silvia Metzeltin Buscaini. Luciano Ghigo, Zhou Zheng. Ying Dao Shui, Karchung Wangchuk, Lloyd Freese, Tom Elliot, Robert Seibert, and Colin Monteath. METERS TO FEET Unfortunately the American public seems still to be resisting the change from feet to meters. To assist readers from the more enlightened countries, where meters are universally used, we give the following conversion chart: meters feet meters feet meters feet meters feet 3300 10,827 4700 15,420 6100 20,013 7500 24,607 3400 11,155 4800 15,748 6200 20,342 7600 24,935 3500 11,483 4900 16,076 6300 20,670 7700 25,263 3600 11,811 5000 16,404 6400 20,998 7800 25,591 3700 12,139 5100 16,733 6500 21,326 7900 25,919 3800 12,467 5200 17.061 6600 21,654 8000 26,247 3900 12,795 5300 7,389 6700 21,982 8100 26,575 4000 13,124 5400 17,717 6800 22,3 10 8200 26,903 4100 13,452 5500 8,045 6900 22,638 8300 27,231 4200 13,780 5600 8,373 7000 22,966 8400 27,560 4300 14,108 5700 8,701 7100 23,294 8500 27,888 4400 14,436 5800 19,029 7200 23,622 8600 28,216 4500 14,764 5900 9,357 7300 23,951 8700 28,544 4600 15,092 6000 19,685 7400 24,279 8800 28,872 NOTE: All dates in this section refer to 1988 unless otherwise stated.
    [Show full text]
  • The American Alpine Club Guidebook to Membership Alpinist Magazine
    THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP ALPINIST MAGAZINE ith each print edition of Alpinist, we aim to create a work of art, paying attention to every detail— from our extended photo captions to our carefully Wselected images and well-crafted stories. Inside our pages, we strive to offer our readers an experience like that of exploratory climbing, a realm of words and images where they can wander, discover surprising new viewpoints, and encounter moments of excitement, humor, awe and beauty. By publishing the work of climbers from a wide range of ages, technical abilities, nations and cultures—united by their passion for adventure and wild places—we hope to reflect and enhance the sense of community within the climbing life. Over time, back issues have become collectors’ items, serving as historical references and ongoing inspirations. Like our readers, we believe that great writing and art about climbing demand the same boldness, commitment and vision as the pursuit itself. JOIN US. Exclusive AAC Member Pricing 1 Year - $29.95 | 2 Years - $54.95 Alpinist.com/AAC ALPINIST IS A PROUD PARTNER OF THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB Stay Connected! @AlpinistMag @Alpinist @AlpinistMag ALP_2019_AAC Ad FIN.indd 1 6/26/19 4:14 PM WELCOME, ALL 5 You Belong Here ARTIST SPOTLIGHT 8 Brooklyn Bell on Art for the In-betweens MEMBERSHIP THROUGH THE LENS 10 Inspiration, Delivered Directly NAVAJO RISING 23 An Indigenous Emergence Story WHEN WOMEN LEAD 27 Single Pitch Instructors for the 21st Century GLACIAL VIEWS 29 A Climate Scientist Reflects & Other Research Stories CLIMBERS FOR CLIMATE 32 Taking a Stand on Climate Change, Together 1CLIMB, INFINITE POTENTIAL 34 Kevin Jorgeson Breaks Down Walls by Building Them ON PUSHING 37 24 Hours Into the Black, the AAC Grief Fund AN ODE TO MOBILITY 40 The Range of Motion Project Tackles Cotopaxi YOSEMITE'S CAMP 4 43 The Center of the Climbing Universe REWIND THE CLIMB 47 The Tragedy of the 1932 American K2 Expedition BETA 48 Everything a Club Member Needs to Know PARTING SHOT 72 Jeremiah Watt on Travel & Life a Greg Kerzhner climbing Mr.
    [Show full text]
  • Appalachia Alpina
    Appalachia Volume 71 Number 2 Summer/Fall 2020: Unusual Pioneers Article 16 2020 Alpina Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.dartmouth.edu/appalachia Part of the Nonfiction Commons Recommended Citation (2020) "Alpina," Appalachia: Vol. 71 : No. 2 , Article 16. Available at: https://digitalcommons.dartmouth.edu/appalachia/vol71/iss2/16 This In Every Issue is brought to you for free and open access by Dartmouth Digital Commons. It has been accepted for inclusion in Appalachia by an authorized editor of Dartmouth Digital Commons. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Alpina A semiannual review of mountaineering in the greater ranges The 8,000ers The major news of 2019 was that Nirmal (Nims) Purja, from Nepal, climbed all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks in under seven months. The best previous time was a bit under eight years. Records are made to be broken, but rarely are they smashed like this. Here, from the Kathmandu Post, is the summary: Annapurna, 8,091 meters, Nepal, April 23 Dhaulagiri, 8,167 meters, Nepal, May 12 Kangchenjunga, 8,586 meters, Nepal, May 15 Everest, 8,848 meters, Nepal, May 22 Lhotse, 8,516 meters, Nepal, May 22 Makalu, 8,481 meters, Nepal, May 24 Nanga Parbat, 8,125 meters, Pakistan, July 3 Gasherbrum I, 8,080 meters, Pakistan, July 15 Gasherbrum II, 8,035 meters, Pakistan, July 18 K2, 8,611 meters, Pakistan, July 24 Broad Peak, 8,047 meters, Pakistan, July 26 Cho Oyu 8,201 meters, China/Nepal, September 23 Manaslu, 8,163 meters, Nepal, September 27 Shishapangma, 8,013 meters, China, October 29 He reached the summits of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu in an astounding three days.
    [Show full text]
  • Genre Bending Narrative, VALHALLA Tells the Tale of One Man’S Search for Satisfaction, Understanding, and Love in Some of the Deepest Snows on Earth
    62 Years The last time Ken Brower traveled down the Yampa River in Northwest Colorado was with his father, David Brower, in 1952. This was the year his father became the first executive director of the Sierra Club and joined the fight against a pair of proposed dams on the Green River in Northwest Colorado. The dams would have flooded the canyons of the Green and its tributary, Yampa, inundating the heart of Dinosaur National Monument. With a conservation campaign that included a book, magazine articles, a film, a traveling slideshow, grassroots organizing, river trips and lobbying, David Brower and the Sierra Club ultimately won the fight ushering in a period many consider the dawn of modern environmentalism. 62 years later, Ken revisited the Yampa & Green Rivers to reflect on his father's work, their 1952 river trip, and how we will confront the looming water crisis in the American West. 9 Minutes. Filmmaker: Logan Bockrath 2010 Brower Youth Awards Six beautiful films highlight the activism of The Earth Island Institute’s 2011 Brower Youth Award winners, today’s most visionary and strategic young environmentalists. Meet Girl Scouts Rhiannon Tomtishen and Madison Vorva, 15 and 16, who are winning their fight to green Girl Scout cookies; Victor Davila, 17, who is teaching environmental education through skateboarding; Alex Epstein and Tania Pulido, 20 and 21, who bring urban communities together through gardening; Junior Walk, 21 who is challenging the coal industry in his own community, and Kyle Thiermann, 21, whose surf videos have created millions of dollars in environmentally responsible investments.
    [Show full text]
  • Michigan Ice Fest Presented By: 2020
    MICHIGAN ICE FEST PRESENTED BY: 2020 February 12th - 16th Munising, MI 2 Welcome to Ice Fest Twenty Twenty 5 SOCIAL & ENVIRONMENTAL INITIATIVES 6 Get the most out of Ice Fest Contents 8 PEACE & solitude 10 Park service rules and ettiquette 12 ice fest: a brief history 15 coffee talks 17 life’s a pitch 17 legendary gear raffle 18 classes & courses 19 patagonia provisions demo 20 Tech talk: backing up a rappel 22 artist on ice 25 American Alpine Club 26 Map of Munising 28 Headquarters & Shuttles 30 Schedule 32 Ice Climbing - a quick intro 35 athlete profile: conrad anker 36 athlete profile: graham zimmerman 37 athlete profile: sam elias 38 Athlete Profile: steve house 39 athlete profile: paul mcsorley 40 Additional Guides and Athletes 42 heartland grant 42 Mountain books program 45 Michigan Ice Youtube 46 #Michiganicefest2020 photo contest 48 Climb all day, party all night! 49 film: Himalayan ice 51 film: gone tomorrow 52 Guided climbs & tours 54 off ice fun 56 Yeti Signing with Conrad Anker 57 Gear Demo 58 our volunteers 59 Volunteer profile: John HighlEn 60 When it’s all said and done 63 sponsors 64 thank you 66 sisu shot Cover: Tim Emmett exploring the wild ice on the Lake Superior Shore Mike Wilkinson Contents: Hanging out with frinds and meeting new ones is what Ice Fest is about. Jacob Raab WELCOME TO MICHIGAN ICE FEST TWENTY TWENTY They say hindsight is 20/20 and as we head into our 29th festival it’s hard not to reminisce. Twenty nine years ago ice climbing was barely a thing.
    [Show full text]
  • PR EOFT London Sell
    Heason Events - Speakers, films and events for adventurous spirits & minds Press release - 16 October 2012 European Outdoor Film Tour 2012/13 tickets selling like hot cakes The 2012/13 European Outdoor Film Tour has launched in style with 8 of its first European dates selling out in the first week and just a handful of tickets left for the last UK tour night at the Royal Geographical Society (28 November). But don’t worry, there are three other UK tour dates in Manchester (25 Nov), Glasgow (26th) and Bristol (27th). The programme is a special two-hour edit of nine of the world’s best adventure sports short films and documentaries. It includes a last minute addition after French singer ZAZ climbed Mont Blanc to give a mini-concert with her guitarist and bassist singing ‘Je Veux‘ at 4,810m. This year’s line-up also features ‘A New Perspective’ with incredible footage of David Lama, Peter Ortner and Corey Rich summiting the 6,251m Nameless Tower in Pakistan, also known as Trango Tower, part of the Karakoram mountain range. (Check it out here: http://youtu.be/Y-jfU3wCvgQ) The programme is packed with elite, adventure sports athletes like mountaineers Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk attempting the climb of their life in ‘The Shark’s Fin’, scaling the 9,000m granite wall of Meru in central India just six months after Renan seriously injured himself in a skiiing accident. Other highlights include: • Red Bull’s eagerly awaited freeride mountain-bike epic ‘Where the Trail Ends’ with Darren Berrecloth and co pushing themselves to their limits.
    [Show full text]
  • Pakistan 1999
    LINDSAY GRIFFIN & DAVID HAMILTON Pakistan 1999 Thanks are due to the Pakistan Ministry of Tourism, Xavier Eguskitza, andAsem Mustafa Awanfor their help in providing information. uring the summer of 1999 weather conditions in the Karakoram were Dunexceptional. Fine weather predominated from June to early July when the mid-summer deterioration set in a little earlier than usual. Unsettled conditions continued throughout late July, August and September when spells of stable weather alternated with violent storms and heavy precipitation. Ministry of Tourism statistics show that 64 expeditions received 69 permits to climb peaks over 6000m. A total of 37 permits were issued for the five 8000m peaks, resulting in 24 teams making successful ascents. The remaining 32 permits were issued to expeditions attempting 20 different peaks in the 6000m - 8000m range. Only 12 of these resulted in success. There were seven mountaineering fatalities; two on 8000m peaks and five on 7000m peaks. There was a noticeable increase in the number of expeditions visiting Pakistan despite fears that heightened tension along the Line of Control with India would cause some groups to cancel. The 8000m peaks again attracted the largest number of climbers. However there was a significant increase in the number of expeditions attempting technically challenging routes on 7000m peaks, particularly in the Hispar and Batura areas. Unfortunately few of these teams were successful. Almost 20 groups attempted high-standard big wall climbs, mostly in the Trango and Hushe areas, with a considerable amount of success. Japanese climbers were at the forefront of innovative developments on the high peaks of the Karakoram, while climbers from the USA, Germany, Spain, Italy, Norway and the Czech Republic led the way with big wall projects.
    [Show full text]
  • The Wildest Dream: Conquest of Everest Educational Resources
    THE WILDEST DREAM: CONQUEST OF EVEREST EDUCATIONAL RESOURCES GEORGE MALLORY’S HISTORIC 1924 ATTEMPT TO CLIMB MOUNT EVEREST—and the vast scientific and technological changes since his death—provide themes for compelling classroom activities in grades 4-12. Each activity below features film clips, maps, and photography from The Wildest Dream: Conquest of Everest and National Geographic’s collection of online articles and visuals. Educators can choose from a variety of standards-based activities for grades 4-8 and 9-12, to design a unique and engaging multi-disciplinary unit based on this fascinating mountain and its timeless allure for people around the world. Find activities, handouts, and media links to help students get the most out of The Wildest Dream at http://movies.nationalgeographic.com/movies/the-wildest-dream/educator-resources The Wildest Dream: GRADES 4-5, 6-8 ACTIVITIES Conquest of Everest Activity 1: Name that Destination Students hear clues about one of the Film Summary Grade 4-8 most desolate environments on Earth, then think about what they know and want to know about Mount Everest, the highest mountain on Earth. In 1999, renowned American mountaineer Conrad Anker made a discovery that Activity 2: Measuring Elevation, Students build an inclinometer, then use reverberated around the globe. High in Grade 6-8 Past and Present triangulation to measure the height of a tree. They compare their process to the Mount Everest’s “death zone,” he found the work of British surveyors in the 1800s. body of George Mallory—75 years after the British explorer mysteriously vanished Activity 3: Mapping the Shape Students build a model of a mountain Grade 4-5 of Everest and map its topography, then apply their during his attempt to become the first man learning to a topographic map of Mount to summit the world’s tallest peak.
    [Show full text]
  • U Trustees Announce 2017 Honorary Degree Recipients U Alumni Gail Miller and Conrad Anker to Receive U’S Highest Honor
    UNIVERSITY OF UTAH MEDIA RELEASE Contacts: -- Laura Marks, liaison to the university Board of Trustees – office 801-585-7968, [email protected] -- Annalisa Purser, communications specialist, University of Utah Communications Office – office 801-581-7295, cell 435-232-0312, [email protected] U trustees announce 2017 honorary degree recipients U alumni Gail Miller and Conrad Anker to receive U’s highest honor March 14, 2017 — The University of Utah Board of Trustees today announced that U alumni Gail Miller and Conrad Anker will be presented with honorary doctorate degrees, the highest honor given by the school, during the annual commencement ceremony on Thursday, May 4, 2017, at 6:30 p.m. in the Jon M. Huntsman Center. “As innovators, visionaries and committed public citizens, Gail Miller and Conrad Anker are richly deserving of our most prestigious award,” said Julie Barrett, chair of the Board of Trustees’ honors committee. Conrad Anker is a world-famous rock climber, mountaineer and author. He is best known for his perilous climbs in the Himalayan mountain range and Antarctica. As the team leader of The North Face climbing team, Anker highly values the immersive combination of ecosystems and cultures abroad and in his hometown of Bozeman, Montana. He has traversed the northern reaches of Alaska and Baffin Island down to the southern tip of Patagonia and Antarctica. Anker, with partner Peter Croft, climbed Spansar Peak in Pakistan in a single day, making them the first two people to ascend the 7,000-foot ridge. He has summited Everest multiple times and, in 1999, gained mainstream fame when he discovered the body of George Mallory, who disappeared during an attempt to be the first to reach the top of Mount Everest in 1924.
    [Show full text]
  • North America 2000
    KELLY CORDES / AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL North America 2000 ALASKA erhaps the epicentre of North American alpine climbing, Alaska Pcontinued to receive world-class ascents on big, difficult routes as well as repeats in blazing alpine style. On Denali, the 9000ft Czech Direct (initially climbed as a siege effort in 1986) received its second and third ascents, and quantum leaps in the definition of 'alpine style'. In May, Ben Gilmore and Kevin Mahoney repeated the massive route in alpine style in seven days, a fine feat of its own. Less than a month later, Steve House, Scott Backes and Mark Twight blitzed the route in 60 hours of climbing, sans bivvy gear. House claims 'It was my first world-class route' - a powerful statement from one of North America's top alpinists. They simul-climbed and soloed considerable amounts of the S.9 WI6 route, belaying thirty-one 60-metre pitches in their remarkable ascent. Also on Denali, Reality Ridge received its first solo from Robert Shonerd. Bart Paull and Fred Wilkinson, each a mere 20-years old, blazed the Cassin in S6 hours - a route requiring up to a week for many seasoned alpinists. An adventurous Canadian couple, Sacha Friedlin and Marie-Diane Cyr, hiked into the Alaska Range, climbed Foraker and Hunter, and Friedlin soloed Denali, before the pair hiked back out after approximately two hearty months. The profound Infinite Spur on Mt Foraker received its third and fourth ascents at more or less the same time over about one week in late May. The first team was veteran Alaska hardman Carl Tobin and the timeless alpine superhero Barry Blanchard, with 'the lads' close on their heels: Gren Hinton and Glen Deal, both in their early 20s.
    [Show full text]