Whitewater Walls...... 183 Dry Wall ...... 313 Rainbow Slide ...... 477 Contents Wall #1 ...... 184 Case Wall ...... 314 West Face ...... 479 Read This First...... 3 Wall #2 ...... 184 Crack in the Woods Cliff ...... 315 Lower Wolfjaw Cliff...... 479 Foreword...... 8 Wall #3 ...... 185 Roaring Brook Falls ...... 316 Noonmark Mountain...... 480 Introduction ...... 11 Backwater Wall ...... 185 Upper Wolfjaw Cliff ...... 482 The Area ...... 12 Humble Pie Wall ...... 186 KEENE ...... 319. Rooster Comb ...... 485 Local Climbing Practices ...... 17 Spanky's Area ...... 187 Hurricane Crag ...... 321 Basin Mountain ...... 487 Using This Guidebook...... 19 Poplar Wall ...... 188 Spruce Hill Crag ...... 330 East Face ...... 487 Nestle Wall ...... 189 Typhoon Wall...... 331 Southeast Face...... 488 Adirondack Geology 101: Rocks for Jocks . . vol. 2, 19 Spanky's Wall...... 190 Peregrine Pillar Area ...... 333 South Face Amphitheater ...... 488 Adirondack Climbing Chronology. . . . . vol. 2, 28 The Peasant Crags ...... 195 Peregrine Pillar ...... 333 The Brothers ...... 489 Pushing the Grade...... vol. 2, 33 The Citadel ...... 195 Banzai Wall ...... 335 The Courthouse ...... 491 First Lead Slab...... 196 Ausable #4 ...... 336 Big Slide Mountain...... 494 Bikini Atoll ...... 198 Fun-da-ga-o Cliff...... 336 Mt Marcy ...... 497 LAKE CHAMPLAIN ...... 27. Jewels and Gem...... 198 Little Crow Mountain...... 337 Panther Gorge ...... 498 Poke-O Moonshine ...... 29 King Wall ...... 200 Barkeater Cliff ...... 339 East Face ...... 501 Main Face ...... 31 Emperor Slab ...... 209 Swamp Rock...... 349 Porter Mountain ...... 502 Poke-O Slab ...... 106 Chapel Pond Slab ...... 213 Owls Head Mountain ...... 349 Avalanche Lake ...... 507 Southwest Face ...... 114 The Aquarium ...... 221 Pitchoff Ridge Trail Domes ...... 350 Avalanche Pass ...... 509 Lower Dome ...... 351 West Face of Mt Colden ...... 509 Upper Tiers...... 114 Chapel Pond Gully Cliff ...... 223 Upper Dome ...... 351 East Face of Avalanche Mountain ...... 518 Hospital Rock...... 115 Martini Wall...... 236 Pitchoff Chimney Cliff ...... 352 Wright Peak ...... 525 Summit Cliff...... 115 Creature Wall...... 236 Grand View Cliff ...... 369 Ampersand Mountain ...... 526 Headwall ...... 120 Upper Washbowl ...... 240 Fern Cubby ...... 370 Scarface Mountain...... 527 The Lunar Wall ...... 131 Washbowl Pond ...... 250 The Nursery ...... 371 Dix Mountain ...... 527 The Sun Wall ...... 133 Chapel Pond Viewpoint ...... 251 Between the Lakes ...... 372 Northwest Face...... 527 Second Tier...... 134 Wall of Sorrows ...... 251 Jaws Wall ...... 372 West Face ...... 528 Third Tier ...... 137 Future Wall ...... 252 Cascade Cliff ...... 372 Hoffman Notch ...... 528 Fourth Tier ...... 138 Second Chance Wall...... 252 Solitude Wall ...... 253 UFO Wall ...... 379 Long Wall ...... 529 West Side . 139 Nubble Cliff ...... 253 Ice Age Wall ...... 380 Appendix A: Grade Conversion ...... 530 Carl Mountain Cirque...... 140 Banana Belt...... 253 Unbalanced Rock Cliff...... 380 Appendix B: Cliffs by Category ...... 531 Beaver Wall ...... 141 Asterisk ...... 254 Pitchoff North Face ...... 381 Appendix C: Private Land Crags ...... 535 Palisades...... 141 Washbowl Pond Slab ...... 254 Appendix D: Advertiser Index ...... 535 Barn Rock ...... 145 Giant's Secret...... 255 WILMINGTON NOTCH...... 383. Appendix E: Local Resources...... 536 The Honey Pot ...... 145 Serac Wall ...... 255 Cobble Cliff ...... 385 Halfway Handcrack ...... 147 Outlet Wall ...... 256 Pulpit Rock...... 386 Graded List of Climbs...... vol. 2, 502 King Philip's Spring Wall ...... 147 P .E . Wall ...... 256 Sunrise Mountain Slab...... 387 INDEX...... 538. Highway Blues Slab ...... 149 Spider's Web...... 258 Notch Mountain ...... 388 The Crown ...... 150 Lower Washbowl...... 272 Labor Day Wall...... 392 Acknowledgements ...... 560 Makomis Mountain Cliff ...... 151 Stone Face Rib ...... 273 Moss Cliff ...... 392 About the Authors ...... 560 Another Roadside Distraction ...... 153 Whip It Wall ...... 274 Alcatraz ...... 408 Tsunami Crag ...... 153 False Arrow Face ...... 274 High Falls Crag ...... 410 Mineville Slab ...... 154 Lost Arrow Face ...... 275 Cloudspin Cliff ...... 412 Deadwater ...... 155 The Cleaver...... 279 Olympic Acres ...... 415 Deadwater Way Left ...... 162 The Ticket...... 279 Polar Soldier Wall...... 415 Sharp Bridge Campground ...... 163 The Fan ...... 280 Bear Den ...... 416 Sweet Fern Hill ...... 165 Balcony Cliff ...... 280 Santa Claus Hill ...... 418 Bass Lake Hill Crag ...... 165 Long Buttress...... 281 Beaver Brook ...... 420 Meadow Hill Cliff ...... 166 Concave Wall...... 281 Camel's Hump ...... 166 Eighth Wall ...... 283 HIGH PEAKS ...... 423. North Hudson Dome ...... 167 Jack Straw Wall...... 284 Flowed Lands ...... 427 Baby Dome ...... 168 Swamp Rock ...... 284 Henderson Cliff ...... 428 Little Johnson ...... 169 Beer Walls ...... 285 Wallface ...... 431 Northway Express Wall ...... 172 Entrance Wall...... 288 Owls Head Lookout ...... 463 Dregs Wall ...... 289 Giant Mountain ...... 464 CHAPEL POND PASS...... 177. Near Beer Wall ...... 289 West Face ...... 465 Malfunction Junction Cliff ...... 181 Upper Beer Wall ...... 289 East Face ...... 467 Boquet River Crags ...... 181 Flailing Wall ...... 299 Gothics Mountain ...... 468 Boquet Canyon...... 182 Lower Beer Wall ...... 300 North Face ...... 469 Boxcar ...... 183 Corner Pocket ...... 313 South Face ...... 473 Drawing by Tad Welch.

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