VOLUME 9 NO. 3 JUNE 11 – JUNE 24, 2020 SUBMIT STORIES TO: @STRIPES.COM STRIPESKOREA.COM FACEBOOK.COM/STRIPESPACIFIC FREE Share your piece of paradise with us MAISAN MOUNTAIN Hit the trails for fresh air, beautiful views Pages 12-14

Stars and Stripes is asking readers to write about their own piece of paradise. Yes, that means you! Our annual Destination Paradise magazine highlights must-see travel spots across the Pacific — and your bit of paradise could be included in our 2020-21 edition that hits the streets on Pacific bases in September. Submit your story and photos to [email protected] by July 19. We’ll make you famous!

Check out our previous Destination Paradise mags

Enjoy a blast from the past Pages 8-11 2 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC JUNE 11 − JUNE 24, 2020

Mapo Bridge crosses the in . Photo by Alexey Komarov, Wikimedia Commons

Max D. Lederer Jr. Publisher Lt. Col. Richard E. McClintic Commander Joshua M Lashbrook Chief of Staff Chris Verigan Engagement Director Marie Woods Publishing and Media Design Director Chris Carlson Publishing and Media Design Manager USFK worker helps thwart Eric Lee Advertising and Circulation Manager Enrique “Rick” W. Villanueva Jr. Korea Area Manager suicide attempts on bridge Jinsun Song Operations Manager BY KIM GAMEL, “I just rambled, but at least I got by and waved at crews that responded Kentaro Shimura STARS AND STRIPES their attention for a little bit.” the closed-circuit to a call at 5:48 a.m. Production Manager Published: May 27, 2020 Rie Miyoshi The city installed 8.5-foot- TV cameras on the May 21 found two Engagement Manager high, curved barriers along the bridge to try to get South Korean men SEOUL — Andres Torres was Denisse Rauda bridge in 2016 to keep people somebody’s atten- on the bridge barrier, Publishing and Media Design Editor out for an early morning bike from trying to jump as it had tion. then turned them over Publishing and Media Design Writers ride when he spotted two South ChiHon Kim become a popular spot for sui- A rescue dive boat to police. He couldn’t Shoji Kudaka Korean men perched danger- Takahiro Takiguchi cide attempts. But the men had eventually appeared provide more details. ously on the tall barriers lining Layout Designers managed to climb on top. on the Han River be- The episode took Mamoru Inoue the Mapo Bridge in Seoul. Torres, 34, of Mount Pleas- low. about 15 minutes, Tor- Yukiyo Oda Torres, who works for the Yuko Okazaki ant, S.C., said he also showed “Then finally I res said. Kayoko Shimoda Defense Intelligence Agency Torres them a photo of his daughter noticed that the traf- “It happened in a Multimedia Consultants on Yongsan Garrison, couldn’t Max Genao Doug Johnson that he has on his phone as a fic stopped on the bridge com- blink of an eye, but I felt like I Brian Jones Jason Lee remember the local emergency way of showing them “there’s a ing my direction, then the fire was up there forever,” he said. Hans Simpson Chae Pang Yi number (119) and doesn’t speak Gianni Youn Robert Zuckerman lot more to live for.” trucks came out and stopped. “They could have come down of Graphic Designers much Korean but felt he had to One of the men took notice They rushed to him and grabbed their own accord. They might Kenichi Ogasawara Yosuke Tsuji do something to keep and climbed down, him. They got him off the top,” Sales Support not have understood me, but it Kazumi Hasegawa Hiromi Isa them from jumping. EXCLUSIVE NEWS FROM: stumbling and hit- Torres said. felt good to try to help some- Ichiro Katayanagi Yoko Noro “I was just telling ting his head, but Torres said one of the fire- Yusuke Saori Tamanaha one.” Toshie Yoshimizu Un Chong Yu them, ‘This is not a the second man re- fighters thanked him in English. Stars and Stripes reporter good idea. You don’t For feedback and inquiries, mained on the fence, He snapped a photo of the scene Yoo Kyong Chang contributed to contact [email protected] want to do this. It’s a he said. before riding vaway. this report. To place an ad, call DSN 755-2255 beautiful day outside,’” he said, Torres tried to flag down an An officer at the Young- [email protected] stripeskorea.com/contact describing the May 21 incident. emergency vehicle that drove deungpo fire station said rescue Twitter: @kimgamel JUNE 11 − JUNE 24, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES KOREA 3 4 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC JUNE 11 − JUNE 24, 2020 ‘Weather drives what you can accomplish’

STORY AND PHOTO BY takeoff for pilots. These forecasts Jorgensen, 8th OSS weather STAFF SGT. ANTHONY HETLAGE, are normally briefed in person forecaster. “We also field phone 8TH FIGHTER WING PUBLIC AFFAIRS by a weather flight Airman em- calls from agencies across the bedded in each fighter squadron. base. We are a tool for anyone to nclement weather can rain “We brief over the phone right use if they require weather infor- on anyone’s parade, includ- now due to COVID-19 to limit our mation.” ing flying operations, physi- I footprint but once things return Agencies such as the 8th Force cal training and more. The 8th to normal operations, we’ll em- Support Squadron fitness assess- Operations Support Squadron bed once again,” said Mathews. ment center requires weather weather flight monitors the sky “Having embedded Airmen al- updates to conduct physical to keep the Wolf Pack looking lows pilots to bring any questions training tests while the 8th Civil on the bright side at Kunsan Air or concerns directly to us, face- Engineer Squadron explosive Base. to-face at a moment’s notice.” ordnance disposal flight must un- Senior Airman Houston Jorgensen hard at work. The 8th OSS weather flight Pilots depend on accurate and derstand certain weather param- consists of 11 personnel across detailed weather forecasts to eters to conduct controlled deto- field offers a lot of different op- that it changes from base to base two sections to support rough- complete their flying operations. nations. The 8th OSS air traffic portunities and different direc- and region to region. ly 2,500 Wolf Pack members. “Our mission forecast is control tower is also provided tions we can take.” “Weather can be affected by The weather operations section tailored to the pilots,” said with weather updates constantly Weather flight Airmen go the terrain, so each location has works directly with the 35th and Mathews. “We have to be a lot so they can communicate mo- through one of the longest tech- its own localized effects, experi- 80th Fighter Squadrons, provid- more specific than your regular ment-to-moment updates with nical trainings in the Air Force. ence is key in pattern recogni- ing weather updates for flying news weatherman. Pilots need pilots as they take off and land. The training is conducted over tion and writing forecasts,” said operations. The airfield opera- to know the exact level of turbu- “Weather drives what you 146 duty days at Keesler Air Jorgensen. “My biggest chal- tions section provides weather lence, level of cloud heights for can accomplish,” said Mathews. Force Base, Mississippi. While lenge was learning how weather updates for the rest of the base takeoff and landing, and more.” “Sun Tzu had a famous quote, there, they will learn how to at Kunsan is vastly different and and fields phone calls from vari- write forecasts, the different lay- He added, “Weather can ‘know the enemy, know yourself; doesn’t look anything like the ous base agencies. change the types of tools or mu- your victory will never be endan- ers in the atmosphere and even weather in Texas.” “Our primary mission is to nitions needed to complete a gered. Know the ground, know the sun and solar storms. Even with experience and pat- support the flying mission first mission. If the aircraft are car- the weather; your victory will “During technical training, tern recognition, weather fore- and foremost,” said Tech. Sgt. rying the wrong weapon for the then be total.’ I think that sums they are basically cramming in Phillip Mathews, 8th OSS weath- wrong weather, they are not go- up our career field.” a four-year meteorology degree casting is not an exact science. er operations NCO in charge. “In ing to be as successful.” Their career field also extends minus the advanced math,” said “Weather is not black and the weather operations section, The airfield operations part of to supporting Army personnel. Mathews. “I’ve been doing this white. ‘A’ plus ‘B’ doesn’t always we provide pilots a weather brief the flight provides a more gener- “There are no Army forecast- for 11 years and I’m still learn- equal ‘C’ for us,” said Mathews. before each mission and contin- alized forecast for the rest of the ers,” said Mathews. “We have ing, seeing things I’ve never seen “I like to think we are correct 90 ue to monitor and give updates if Wolf Pack. some Airmen who came from before. You don’t ever master percent of the time, but we are needed.” “We issue any weather watch- Army assignments and others forecasting weather because it’s occasionally going to be wrong In addition, mission forecasts es, warnings or advisories,” who are going on to Army as- so fluid.” no matter what and that’s frus- are prepared hours prior to said Senior Airman Houston signments from here. Our career Weather forecasting is so fluid trating.” JUNE 11 − JUNE 24, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES KOREA 5 Daegu soldier, spouse lauded for volunteering

BY C.J. LOVELACE, dedication, drive and organi- 8TH ARMY zation … the unit would not be as strong and cohesive,” CAMP WALKER – Leaders at U.S. Army Garrison Daegu on said 2nd Lt. Julie Sperry, who May 14 recognized numerous nominated Pantlitz. “She takes volunteers for their countless great pride in volunteering her hours of service over the past time and energy to ensure the year in support of U.S. Forces Soldiers in the unit have some- Korea’s Area IV. thing to look forward to and to Among the honorees, Pfc. increase unit morale.” Bless Pantlitz, a member of Nominated by USAMMC- the 563rd Medical Logistics K Sgt. Maj. Danyell Walters, Company, was named the 2019 Rachael Welde “is involved USAG-Daegu Active Duty Ser- in almost every aspect” of vice Member Volunteer of the the USAG-Daegu community, Year, while Rachael Welde was “selflessly serving our youth, recognized as the overall Area soldiers and family members.” IV and USAG-Daegu Volunteer of the Year. Described as “passionate” Both are assigned to/affiliat- and “completely selfless,” she ed with the U.S. Army Medical serves as president of the Dae- Materiel Center-Korea (US- gu Elementary School Adviso- AMMC-K), a direct reporting ry Committee, leading several unit to Army Medical Logistics educational initiatives, as well Command, headquartered at as other activities that support Fort Detrick, Maryland. soldiers and their families. Welde also received the “When people see Rachael President’s Volunteer Service walk into a room, they’re im- Award, one of many commen- mediately affected by her dations handed out by USAG- Pfc. Bless Pantlitz, center left, and Rachael Welde, center right, are pictured with USAG-Daegu Commander Col. Ed Ballanco positive presence and com- Daegu Commander Col. Ed and Command Sgt. Maj. Alan Cline. Photo courtesy Lt. Col. Marc Welde passion,” Walters said. “They Ballanco and Command Sgt. know when she’s there, she’s Maj. Alan Cline during a cer- civilians in the Daegu commu- president for the Unit Morale Among numerous other vol- emony at Camp Walker’s Ever- nity,” said Lt. Col. Marc Welde, Planning Committee and al- unteer activities, Pantlitz also ready to serve in any capac- green Club. Rachael’s husband and com- ternate unit representative for has played a vital role in en- ity required to improve the “We’re very proud of these mander of USAMMC-K, a ten- Better Opportunity for Single suring a smooth organization services, performance and two ladies who have gone ant command within USAG- Soldiers (BOSS), has organized day for USAMMC-K, accord- readiness of the function. Her above and beyond to serve our Daegu. fundraising and morale events, ing to her nomination. personal influence is felt by so soldiers, family members and Pantlitz, who serves as helping to raise over $3,400. “Without PV2 Pantlitz’s many.” 6 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC JUNE 11 − JUNE 24, 2020

FROM THE ARCHIVES

Revisit the past through the writing and photos of Stars and Stripes reporters over the past 75 years at: 75.stripes.com Celebrating

75 Korean orphan adopted, 1958 Admiring a new addition to their family - six-month-old Susan Marie Young - are Sgt. and Mrs. Young and their five sons. The brothers are (clockwise from top) Henry, Richard, John, Philip, and Donald. Young brought the infant, a Korean orphan whom the family has adopted, to years Tokyo from Seoul Tuesday. Photo by Lee Pearlman

onto the College Acceptance JUNE 11 − JUNE 24, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES KOREA 7 Four places to go in Sacheon for a healing day trip HAPS KOREA MAGAZINE

s travelers are still wary about visiting sites with many people, a A new trend in “no contact healing” tourism has started to pop up around the peninsula. Sacheon, in South Gyeongsang province, has some great destinations for those looking to avoid crowds and seek pleasure for a great day trip while maintaining social distance. Here are four recommended sites to Bito Island see on your next visit.

Bito Island – Cool sea breezes and spectacular views await with endless tidal flats providing the backdrop to the island. The local Bito National Leisure Camp- site has also recently reopened.

Sacheon Coastal Road – The coastal roads into Sacheon offer splendid views of Hallyeohaesang National Park, with small islands dotting the indigo blue sea as a backdrop. In the evening, enjoy Sancheonpo Sacheon Coastal Road/Sacheon City Sacheon City Bridge’s beautiful view, which was re- cently voted one of the top 100 night pensions, as the sounds of fish, nature, a coastal drive where five bridges con- views in . and water surround you relieving your nect Sacheon with Namhae and en- to Sacheon is about a 108-kilo- daily stress. joy the beautiful coastline of forests meter journey by car and is a roughly Haeyang Pension – Spend a night and rock formations around Namildae two-hour bus ride from the Busan Seo- in one of the region’s unique marine Samcheonpo Coastal Trail – Enjoy Beach. bu Intercity Bus Terminal in Sasang. 8 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC JUNE 11 − JUNE 24, 2020

City’s art, food, music a blast from the past STORY AND PHOTOS BY CHIHON KIM, STRIPES KOREA

isitors looking for a bit of history, a bit of culture and a lot of art V will find Daegu has all these lit- erally on the wall. Located in the middle of Korea’s southeastern region, murals of Daegu and its heritage are recalling memories of the past that were long for- gotten. You’ll find these paintings created by local artists in the narrow alleys of the city. Here, you will also find a colonial-era building left untouched by the boom of de- velopment with a unique style of architec- ture and delicious coffee. The traditional market, which is deep-rooted in the city’s history, is still a popular shopping area for residents. Get better acquainted with Daegu’s history and attractions through the ward office’s many day trip tours. Don’t have time for a tour? Check out the list below for must-see places during your visit to Daegu. [email protected]

On the Kim unique souvenir stores scattered Daegu:Kwang-seok road, around the area. Why not try on located next to the some 70s-era Korean school uni- Sincheon River that forms (7,000KRW), recalling the Kimflows across Kwang-seok east- nostalgia of old road Korea, and take ern Daegu, popular a black-and-white photo with folk songs from the your friends? 1980s and 1990s of The alley will transport you Korea are streamed back to the 1980s and 1990s through speakers and there is even a “slow mail- that are fixed along box.” Write a letter to yourself the seemingly-end- or your loved ones and drop it in the box. less wall, creating an Expect to receive your letter in a year as old-timey mood a way to meet the person you were a year for the alley. The ago. A faded public phone from a street is named bygone era still lets you make calls, after the late so give it a try and leave someone Kim Kwang-seok, a lovely message. At the end of the a South Korean folk street sits “KIM KwangSeok Story singer and one of Dae- House,” a cozy venue decorated like gu’s famous sons. the house Kim lived in where Kim’s lyrics and other you can listen to his songs. works commemorating his Although his songs are legacy fill the 350-meter-long in Korean, Kim’s voice walls of the road. is appealing and his On this road you’ll also find contemplative lyrics the Bangcheng Market and on social and political ADDRESS: 2232-25, Dalgubeol-daero, Jung-gu, Daegu you will notice a small con- issues were extremely cert hall where emerging art- popular in the country. n TRAIN ists perform as you walk past Though you may not Jije Station (Pyeongtaek) → - SRT (ex- the murals. This small outdoor understand the lyrics, press train): 1hrs 20m (29,900 won) → Take a taxi (15min / music venue is a great place Kim’s work might still 6000KRW) to catch a break and some manage to draw you in. n SUBWAY good tunes. Also, don’t forget By the way, the street is - LINE2: Kyungdae-hosp station Exit 3 (5min on foot) to take some time to explore a great place for a date Walk down to Bangcheon Market the many hip coffee shops and night or family stroll. - LINE3: Daebonggyo station Exit 4 (7min on foot)

Korean ingredient. For a few more Bangcheon won, try their signature menu, which noodle means your noodles are topped with a rolled egg omelet, seaweed and herbs Bangcheon Noodles, located be- (5,000 KRW). They also serve a deli- tween Kim Kwang Seok road and cious and pretty tri-colored Korean Bangcheon market, is a restaurant pancake (7,000 won) which pairs well specializing in noodles and Korean pancakes. Unlike the hip graffiti out- with , a Korean sparkling side the restaurant, the cooks are all (3500KRW). The Gaon- about tradition and make their noo- milmyon restaurant across the street dles with gardenia seed, a traditional is also a good option for noodles. JUNE 11 − JUNE 24, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES KOREA 9

City’s art, food, music a blast from the past STORY AND PHOTOS BY CHIHON KIM, STRIPES KOREA isitors looking for a bit of history, a bit of culture and a lot of art V will find Daegu has all these lit- erally on the wall. Located in the middle of Korea’s southeastern region, murals of Daegu and its heritage are recalling memories of the past that were long for- gotten. You’ll find these paintings created by local artists in the narrow alleys of the city. Here, you will also find a colonial-era building left untouched by the boom of de- velopment with a unique style of architec- ture and delicious coffee. The traditional market, which is deep-rooted in the city’s history, is still a popular shopping area for residents. Get better acquainted with Daegu’s history and attractions through the ward office’s many day trip tours. Don’t have time for a tour? Check out the list below for must-see places during your visit to Daegu. [email protected]

Behind the Hyundai Department during the Japanese invasion of Korea YeongnamStore in the middle of Daegu,daero you’ll &in 1592, but stayed behind, became a find the Yeongnam-daero, one of nine naturalized Korean and made his liv- Mulberrymajor roads that connect Street Busan and(Du ing plantingSa-chung) mulberry trees. This Seoul. The road, which dates to the Jo- area is rich in history and art, mak- seon Dynasty of 1392-1887, was once ing it a draw for tourists and artists a major artery for transport. Scholars alike. Throughout the years, this has from the Yeongnam region seeking been home to many artists, includ- to become government officials also ing poet Lee Sang-hwa, painter Lee once used this road for their 30-day In-sung and novelist Hyun Jin-gun. commute to Seoul on foot to take the This is also a great place to venture civil service exam. past the mural streets in search of Today, the Yeongnam-daero is only the old Daegu’s hidden gems. a fraction of the “big road” its name suggests. Murals in this valley de- pict the most important moments of a ADDRESS: 50,Gukchaebosang-ro 102 gil, scholar’s trip — the sendoff to Seoul Jung-gu, Daegu(the whole district) and the triumphant return after he passed the exam. Other murals por- n SUBWAY tray locals’ everyday life, and the skill LINE1,2: Banwoldang station Exit 15~18, of the artists give the paintings an walk to the back alley of the HYUNDAI almost 3D-like effect. The road here shopping mall. isn’t very crowded, so feel free to take your time and enjoy the artwork. Af- URL: http://www.jung.daegu.kr/new/eng- ter, history buffs will want to head to- lish/pages/tour/page.html?mc=5032 wards Mulberry Street. Named after the famous trees that Visitors can take a Daegu Alleyway Tour were said to once grace this area, Mul- that shows live modern cultural heritage berry Street now only has the murals with the guidance of a cultural specialist. • illustrating what it once looked like. Every Saturday (5 Courses) 10 a.m.-noon • The area was once home to General Every third Thursday (Foodie Tour) 10 a.m.- Du Sa-Chong of the Ming Dynasty. noon • Every third Friday (Night View Tour) The general was dispatched to Joseon 7-9 p.m SEE DAEGU ON PAGE 10 10 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC JUNE 11 − JUNE 24, 2020 Good eats, good shopping Cafe Samduk Sanghoe / Mix cafe Booksungno / Buksungno Bulgogi street

In the early 1900s, Daegu’s check out the view of their wine fortified wall was destroyed, cellar housed inside the build- opening more real estate so ing’s former basement air-raid Japanese businesses could ex- shelter. The coffee at both cafes pand what was once one of Dae- isn’t great, but their atmosphere DAEGU: gu’s largest makes them commercial worth a visit. districts. While In the late Buksungno 1940s, after may still be indepen- a tool alley CONTINUED FROM PAGE 9 dence, the during the area became day, at night somewhat watch the of a tattered place with area convert merchants into a bulgo- selling tools gi-lover’s and equip- paradise. The Seomun Market, on Daegu’s west side, ment, in- Bulgogi fans is the city’s largest night market, stretching cluding will want to Seomun350 meters and featuring night over 80 kiosks sell- those from stop by as Chinese and Western cuisines tickle people’s ing a variety of food and goods. the U.S. this is a lo- palates at Seomun. No matter how picky you marketFinding the market is easy as its bright military. cal favorite are, you’re sure to find something delicious lights and big crowds are difficult to miss. During this for grabbing here (from 2500~6000 KRW). A hot spot for people-watching and enter- time, most cheap bulgo- Among some of the treats you can get at tainment, the market is known for its many of the movie the market, Tang Ho-lu, or sugar syrup- gi, udon and fabric and textile shops. According to the theaters and department stores coated strawberries, are a popular sweet. a (8500 KRW + 3500 KRW market website, it also serves as a start-up with Japanese architecture Also, while you’re here, try the “Yachae- for soju). Gentrification pushed incubator, helping to create a sort of old- from the bygone era also began ttungttaeng--mari,” a popular the bulgogi wagons out, but the meets-new atmosphere while young entre- to disappear. grilled vegetable and pork belly Korean dish area is still a popular place to preneurs try their hand at business. Today, Booksungno is breed- (2,500KRW) you’re guaranteed to have to drink and eat like a Daegu lo- Visitors to the market can sample a vari- ing new blood as the area’s in- wait in line for. cal. ety of street foods from different countries. expensive rent and interesting As you make your way deeper into the Many of the market regulars know to line up architecture are drawing young market, you’ll find a performance stage early in front of their favorite stalls. Some do artists and new businesses in which often features some type of musician ADDRESS: 70, Bukseong-ro, Jung-gu, it even before the grill is heated! A variety alongside the old tool shops. or musical act. There is also a tent where you Daegu of dishes ranging from Korean, Japanese, Café Samduk Sanghoe and Mix can sit and eat away from the chilly weath- Café are two of these newcom- er. Many of the shops change frequently, so n ers. Café Samduk Sanghoe is SUBWAY there’s always something new to see. If you temporarily closed due to the LINE1 Daegu station Exit 2. Walk are visiting Daegu, Seomun Night Market is virus. down to the NH bank after crossing a place you definitely should not miss. Down the street, don’t let Mix the crosswalk, and then cross to the Café’s dingy exterior discour- opposite side and walk along the

age you from stepping inside. street. ADDRESS: 45, Keunjang-ro 26-gil, Jung-gu, Daegu This café has two buildings, one URL: http://www.jung.daegu.kr/new/ from the 1950s and the annex english/pages/tour/page. n SUBWAY building built in 1910. Aside html?mc=5032 - LINE3: Seomun market station Exit 2 or 3 (short from offering a spacious, com- walk from exits 2 and 3 of Seomun Market Station) fortable spread, the 50s-style OPERATING HOURS: décor of the main * For the summer season, Every day, building and the Sunday: 7-11:30 p.m., contrasting Japa- Friday, Saturday: 7 p.m.-midnight nese décor of the * For the winter season, Weekday, annex, make it a Sunday: 7-10:30 p.m., great place to hang Friday, Saturday: 7-11:30 p.m. out and explore. URL: http://www.nightseomun.com/html/ While you’re in lang/index_eng.php the main building, JUNE 11 − JUNE 24, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES KOREA 11

Dongseongno Spark a new Daegu hot spot

STORY AND PHOTOS BY CHIHON KIM, there are still many great at- other good ones you should Spark is the new hot spot in choose from. STRIPES KOREA tractions like E-World, a great have on your Daegu list. A Daegu’s busiest neighbor- If shopping is more your amusement park for kids, or new landmark was added to hood. This is beyond a mall style, this complex mall has hen you think of Dae- and theme park, leading over 90 imported and na- gu, what would you 83tower, a towering presence the list earlier this year when over Daegu. Other attractions Dongseongno Spark opened in for locals to refer to it as a tional brand shops on the first W say is its landmark? “complex-mall” since it is a like the beautiful Gatbawi January. three floors. Shop until sun Born and raised in Daegu, destination for fashion, en- stone buddha at Mt. Palgong An 8-story theme park and set and then head to the 8th I wouldn’t describe my city tertainment and gastronomy. floor where the rooftop garden as a tourist destination, but and Seomun Market are two shopping mall, Dongseongno You can find this titanic-sized serves up views of Daegu and 26,000-square-foot entertain- surrounding areas. ment central just 3.7 km from Camp Henry. The next time I have guests The small amusement park visiting or friends asking for on Dongseongno Spark’s 7th recommendations, Dong- floor was recently reopened seongno Spark is definitely after a suspension due to CO- going to be at the top of my VID-19. Daegu must-see list. Rides range from about [email protected] 4000 to 5000 won each (about $3.24) per ride. There is even a disk’o coaster and other rides ADDRESS: 61, Dongseong-ro 6-gil, great for the kids and adults Jung-gu, Daegu in your family. For a more re- Use Waze to drive to 스파크랜드: laxed ride, grab a ticket for https://waze.com/ul/hwy7kn3fdt the 25-story-high Ferris wheel OPERATING HOURS: equipped with cabins featur- Sun – Thu / holiday noon to 8 p.m. ing transparent floors. Fri – Sat noon to 11 p.m. Other fun activities in the entertainment area of the com- OPERATION HOURS (AMUSMENT PARK) plex include a video game ar- Weekday 3 p.m. to 10 p.m. cade, bowling, laser tag battle, Weekend/ holiday 1 p.m. to 10 p.m. VR zone and screen archery PHONE: 053 - 230 - 2010 and shooting. And, when you WEBSITE: http://d-spark.co.kr/ get hungry grab a bite in any open_content/board/notice_view. of the dozens of restaurants to php?nt_no=16#none

Stripes Korea is A Stars and Stripes Community Publication. or the U.S. Pacific Command. As a DOD newspaper, Stripes those products by the Department of Defense or Stars and This newspaper is authorized for publication by the Department Korea may be distributed through official channels and use Stripes. Products or services advertised in this publication of Defense for members of the military services overseas. appropriated funds for distribution to remote and isolated shall be made available for purchase, use, or patronage However, the contents of Stripes Korea are unofficial, and are locations where overseas DOD personnel are located. The without regard to race, color, religion, sex, national origin, not to be considered as the official views of, or endorsed by, appearance of advertising in this publication, including age, marital status, physical handicap, political affiliation, or the U.S. government, including the Department of Defense inserts or supplements, does not constitute endorsement of any other nonmerit factor of the purchaser, user, or patron. 12 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC JUNE 11 − JUNE 24, 2020

AUTUMN: Maibong File photo

WINTER: Munpilbon Photo courtey of Jinan Office

SPRING: Dotdaebong File photo

SUMMER: Yonggakbong Photo courtey of Jinan Office MAISAN MOUNTAIN Ever-changing seasonal views and great hiking

STORY AND PHOTOS BY CHIHON KIM, STRIPES KOREA

hen it comes to mountains, height isn’t always everything. WAt a mere 685 meters, Maisan Mountain, located in Jianan-gun, Jeolla- buk-do, may not be very tall, but it offers a great view of neighboring peaks and unique topography. From its peak, the view of Tapsa Temple, with its mysteri- ous 80-stone pagodas, is worth the lei- surely climb alone. A 2-hour drive from Camp Hum- phreys and Osan Air Base, Maisan is a great escape from the hustle and bustle of the city that offers some great hiking. Many visitors to the mountain visit multiple times a year as its scenery changes with the season and, to match, so does its name. Maisan means “horse ear mountain,” since its peaks resembles a horse’s ear. In the spring, it is called “Dotdaebong” meaning “mast peaks,” because it seems like the mast of a boat floating on the ocean as the spring mist rises. Its sum- mer name is “Yonggakbong,” meaning “dragon horn peaks,” because the peaks standing out against the sky and the green wood around it are very much like a dragon and its horn. In fall,

The first view of the entire Tapsa Temple JUNE 11 − JUNE 24, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES KOREA 13

Tab-yeongje lake in maisan mountain

it’s called “Maibong,” or “horse ear,” because in the glow of the autumn leaves, the peaks look like horse ears. Finally, “Munpil- bong,” its winter name, means “ink brush peaks,” since the peaks pok- ing through the snow are shaped like brushes dipped in black ink. There are many hiking trails on the Check it out mountain, but for a trail with mod- erate difficulty, try a 3-hour detour around the Tapsa Temple (2000KRW, or $1.73, for admission to the temple and the hiking trail) with easy access to the temple. Things to know Most tourists visit this area for the ADDRESS: 30, Maisan-ro, Jinan-eup, temple, so starting from the trail head Jinan-gun, Jeollabuk-do near the south parking lot (2000KRW, HOURS: 9 a.m. – 6 p.m. (Mar - Oct), or $1.73 for parking), is an easy walk 9 a.m.- 5 p.m. (Nov - Feb) and gives direct access. Expecting a ADMISSION FEES: 1000 to 3000 KRW more difficult trail, I brought trekking PARKING FEES: 2000 to 3000 KRW poles, which I didn’t need at all. Before you get to the ticket office for Tapsa Temple, stop for a look at Geumdangsa Temple, which has no admission charge. At this temple, visi- tors can take a peek at a 300-year-old portrait of Buddha. Once past the ticket gate, the path is lined for about two kilometers with Cheonjitap cherry blossom trees offering nice shade and, in the spring, a great place for viewing the pale pink flowers. pagodas still manage to give the tem- and many believers and tourists bow The landscape of Tapsa is so dif- ple an aura of mystery. at these because they are believed to ferent from anything I’ve ever seen According to local history, the tow- hold supernatural power. at other temples in Korea. When ers were erected in the early 1900s If the initial hike to the temple you reach the main temple area, it by layman Lee Gap Yong, who lived doesn’t tire you out, make your way will feel like you entered a different from 1860 to 1957. Lee spent several up the trail with access to the top of world. There are numerous pagodas decades there developing his mind the Ammaibong Peak. There you will and praying for the redemption of the to catch your eye along with Ammai- see a third temple, Eunsusa, at the From the parking lot, non-believers as he built the stone pa- bong Peak, which provides a beautiful foot of the mountain. The hike up to it’s a 30-minute walk to godas. the stone pagoda area. background. Although it is said that the top is a little steep, but there are Although the story that he alone there were over 120 hand-built stone steel guardrails to assist hikers. This built the structures is still told to this pagodas of all shapes and sizes at one day, adding to the mysterious atmo- stone peak has a distinct surface due time, today, only 80 remain. These 80 The top of the Ammaibong Peak sphere of this temple, current belief to the “taponi,” a topographic phe- is that he had a helper. These pagodas nomenon that makes the stone look built from native rocks look fragile to almost like a honeycomb. the eye, but they’ve lasted over 100 Visit Maisain Mountain multiple years and have even survived numer- times to take in the changing land- ous typhoons over the years. scape. This is a great spot for a relax- The highest twin pagodas, called ing stroll into Korean history. “Cheonjitap,” are behind the temple [email protected]

Eunsusa temple Sutmaibong peak

The top of the Ammaibong Peak WILD VEGETABLE BIBIMBAP & DEEP-FRIEDON PAGE GINSENG 14 14 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC JUNE 11 − JUNE 24, 2020

Things to know Do you like ADDRESS: 60-1, Dongchon-ri, n mountain Speakin’ Maryeong-myeon, Jinan-gun, hiking? Jeollabuk-do Korean CONTACT: 063-432-2469 Deung-san HOURS: 900 a.m. to 2100 p.m. joahaeyo? Where is the n trail? Deung-san-loneun eodie innayo? Bug repellent n Sal-chung-je n Let’s go camping next weekend! Chogajeongdam Da-eum ju-mare kaemping-gayo! n Where can I buy camping Re-energize with region’s wild equipment? Kaemping jangbi-neun eodiseo sal su vegetable bibimbap, deep-fried ginseng isseoyo? There is a sporting goods store I like STORY AND PHOTOS BY CHIHON KIM, ingredients in a separate dish. Another difference was n in Seoul. STRIPES KOREA the lack of colorful ingredients. Instead, eight differ- Seoul-e naega joh-a-ha-neun yong- ent ingredients - groundsel, mul- fter the hike to Tapsa Tem- pum-jeom-i isseoyo. berry leaves, acanthopanax, thistle, ple, I strolled the restaurant bracken, bean sprouts, shiitake alley on the way down to the Which supplies do I need? You A mushrooms and black mushrooms - n parking lot to appease my hunger will need a tent, a sleeping bag, a and a variety of textures provided a for the local specialty. Many tradi- backpack, hiking boots, a flashlight, and combination of savory and delicate tional Korean restaurants special- a warm jacket. flavors, making it the best delicacy izing in vegetable and wild herb Eotteon junbimuri piryohalkkayo? in the mountains. dishes were lined up along the Tenteu, chimnang, baenang, Each bite provided a mouthful of path leading to the temple en- deungsanhwa, sonjeondeung, bursting flavors and the seasoning trance. I thought I should try Wild Vegetable Bibimbam ttatteutan jakesi piryohal geoeyo. ( Chogajeongdam restaurant ) was perfect. It was not salty at all, my luck by just walking into the nor was it too spicy. Even the Kim- first restaurant that caught my eye. How long is it to climb to the top? chi that comes with the bibimbap n As I made my way into Choga- Jeongsangkkaji ol-la-ga-neun-de eol- was not too salty, making it easy to jeongdam, I noticed the impressive ma-na geol-lyeo-yo? enjoy the flavors. ink-and-wash paintings of Mt. Mai- san hanging on the walls. The din- n The scenery is so beautiful! ing room was clean and spacious, Root of the matter Punggyeongi neomu yeppeoyo! but I chose a spot on the terrace to Ginseng, a root of plants in the Will we have a picnic? Yes, let’s buy cool off in the mountain breeze. genus Panax, is a specialty of n lunch and snacks at the grocery store Chogajeongdam serves mainly this area. Try the deep-fried wild vegetable bibimbap and vari- Ginseng, a root of plants in the genus ginseng (2500KRW, or $2.16 to eat on the trail. Panax, is a specialty of this area. ous Korean traditional dishes. I each) at a small eatery near Uri so-pung ganeun chose the basic wild herb bibim- the Chogajeongdam. Although the geoyeyo? Ne, super- Where is bap accompanied by a refreshing soybean paste soup eatery has no name, you can easily find it, just keep e-seo deung-san- sprinkled with dried an eye out for the signboard with a ginseng root il- gaseo meogeul the trail? shrimp. lustration. The lovely golden colored fried-roots are jeomsim-irang Unlike standard displayed outside of the restaurant as well. gansik jom bibimbap, white rice Basically, ginseng has a bitter taste, but the fried gachi sayo. Deung-san- topped with veg- ginseng I bit into had a different flavor than I ever had etables and gochu- before! The restaurant owner said when the ginseng loneun eodie jang (chili pepper is fried with vegetables like onions and carrots, it be- innayo? paste, soy sauce), comes a delicacy. It was really a good way to recover Duck eggs baked in red clay. (1500 Won) the bibimbap here my strength after a hike. came with all the [email protected] JUNE 11 − JUNE 24, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES KOREA 15

SAY MY NAME! The NFL record for the most rushing yards in a single game was held by late, great Walter Payton for 23 years before Corey Dillon broke it with 278 yards in 2000. Since then, Dillon’s record has been topped 3 times, with the current record sitting at 296, set back in 2007. What running back holds the that record?

Stripes Sports TriviaPeterson Adrian

Answer Biweekly Crossword - Week of 6/8/20

Crossword by Margie E. Burke ACROSS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 Garden party? 1 14 15 16 5 Unfair treatment, with "the" 17 18 19 10 Lily plant 20 21 22 14 Soft drink choice 15 Cold-weather 23 24 drink 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 16 Contend with DID YOU 17 Skipper's spot 32 33 34 35 36 18 2006 animated KNOW? film with a bear 37 38 39 40 named Boog 41 42 43 44 20 Recluse 22 Like a job with 45 46 47

no future 48 49 50 51 n South Korea, coin karaoke 23 Wander (about) is very popular among 24 Dissect, in a 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 way young people. It works like 59 60 61 Ia vending machine, where you 25 Kind of heel 62 63 64 can sing one or two-song by 29 Thompson of "Sense and 65 66 67 inserting 500 won (or $0.04) or Sensibility" paper money. 32 Historic time Copyright 2020 by The Puzzle Syndicate 33 Perth natives, e.g. 2 Take-charge 30 "Coyote Ugly" 50 Close call 37 Ladder step type actress 52 Wipes out, mob- 39 Conductor's 3 Loyalty 31 Uneasy state style wand 4 Bear or hare, 34 Learning style 53 Staircase part 40 Mythological ship e.g. 35 Auth. unknown 54 Copter's 41 Gas pedal 5 Sean Connery, 36 Vague amount forerunner 44 Suffix with for one 38 French police- 55 Swamp thing "ideal" 6 Be optimistic man 56 Catch a glimpse of 45 Bingo's cousin 7 Big club 42 Off one's rocker 57 Tori who sang 배신 46 Produce 8 "Mister Roberts" 43 Monthly "A Sorta the week 48 Use a divining star expense, for Fairytale" basin (betrayal) rod 9 Shocking some 58 Motown Four 51 Apprehend weapon 47 Least cooked 60 Grazing locale 52 Like some 10 The scholarly 49 Broom Hilda, e.g. vegetables world Language Lesson 55 Quiet place 11 Jack's love in Answers to Previous Crossword: 59 Grimm specialty "Titanic" T H I S C A M P S H A Z E 61 One of the 12 In the know H O N K O L I V E A R I D Muppets about A N T I P O D C A S T I N G No problem. T E R N O U R F O R A G E 62 Mattress option 13 Patch up A D J U D I C A T E 63 Despicable sort 19 Painter's prop U N S E A T F A R D A T E 64 Unappetizing 21 Noodle N O T E D A F T E R P I X Biweekly Sudoku - Week of 6/8/20 food concoction? D I A P E R S T R A M P L E 65 flavor 24 Thick stew E S T D E C A Y V I L E R 66 Intoxicating 25 "Will be", in a R E E D D O N D E S E R T Munje eopseoyo. A B A T E M E N T S 67 Get rid of Doris Day song S P I R A L M E N R A F T 26 Highway hauler L A S T R E S O R T E U R O DOWN 27 IV part O G L E R A N G E A C E R 1 Stomach woe 28 Peter, e.g. T E E D T W E E D T E E N

SUDOKU Edited by Margie E. Burke Difficulty: Medium HOW TO SOLVE: 2 8 Each row must contain the numbers 1 to 9; each column must contain the numbers 1 to 9; and 9 6 each set of 3 by 3 boxes must 7 6 contain the numbers 1 to 9. 5 8 3 Answers to Previous Sudoku: 8 5 3 7 4 2 1 6 9 3 4 7 6 7 2 3 1 9 5 8 4 9 1 4 5 8 6 3 7 2 7 2 1 2 3 8 4 7 1 6 9 5 5 9 7 4 6 9 3 5 8 2 1 1 9 5 6 2 8 4 3 7 2 9 6 1 4 8 9 2 5 3 7 1 6 3 1 2 8 7 3 2 7 1 6 4 9 5 8 Copyright 2020 by The Puzzle Syndicate 5 6 1 8 9 7 2 4 3

16 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC JUNE 11 − JUNE 24, 2020 Korea’s traditional &

KOREA TOURISM ORGANIZATION

or , alcohol is Makgeolli (Takju) a lifelong companion in Of all of Korea’s traditional alcohols, makgeolli has the longest history. It is made by times of sorrow and joy. F mixing steamed glutinous rice or wheat with , a traditional , and Korean people have enjoyed water, then leaving the mixture to ferment. It has a milky, opaque color and a low alcohol each other’s company over a content of 6%-13%. It is relatively low in calories and high in proteins. It also contains high drink of alcohol since the an- levels of yeast and lactobacillus. cient times. Traditional liquors Idong Makgeolli, produced in Pocheon, Gyeonggi-do, has a sweet and tangy taste simi- are made using excellent in- lar to carbonated water. Recently, different flavors of makgeolli have become quite popu- gredients and are often called lar, including yuja (citron), ginseng and omija (five-flavor berry) makgeolli. yakju, literally meaning “me- dicinal alcohol,” as moderate consumption of alcohol was believed to have health benefits and was offered from one per- The method for making cheongju is similar to makgeolli; cheongju is the clear son to another as a way to cher- residue that is left after straining makgeolli. Cheongju has been widely used in a variety ish friendships. of traditional rituals and rites of passage, as it is regarded as a sincere and well-prepared Korea’s representative tra- alcohol. Cheongju is not only clear (“cheong” means clear), but also favorable and easy ditional liquors are makge- to swallow. olli and soju. They can easily Famous types of cheongju include Gyodong Beopju liquor, which is brewed in , be purchased at markets and Gyeongsangbuk-do. Another is Hansan Sogokju, traditional liquor with 1,500 years of his- convenience stores from Seoul tory that is produced in the Hansan region of Seocheon-gun, Chungcheongnam-do. to even the smallest of towns. Their low price also makes them quite popular. For those looking for more quality prod- Soju ucts, special local liquors such Soju is the most popular liquor in Korea. The most common type is diluted soju, which as Gyeongju Gyodong Beopju, is mass-produced by mixing water with spirits, a process different from the traditional Soju, and Munbae- method. While all have the same soju base, locally produced alcohols are generally made ju are highly recommended. using the traditional method of distillation and regarded as high quality products. These locally produced liquors is a type of traditional distilled liquor, aged for a long period of time for a are made using the traditional deeper flavor. The distilling process has been handed down for years in Andong, Gyeong- method, offering a deep fla- sangbuk-do. The original Andong Soju has a relatively high alcohol content of 40-50 per- vor and taste. The liquors are cent. However, the soju is also available at 20-35 percent for those who do not prefer usually packaged in luxurious strong alcohol. boxes, making them perfect Leegangju is one of the finest liquors from Jeonju, Jeollabuk-do, made by mixing in gifts. They can be purchased at pears and ginger. Munbaeju, a traditional liquor of Pyeongan-do, , boasts specialty liquor shops, depart- deep fruity fragrance and is available in South Korea through the production by a Korean ment stores or specialty stores Food Grand Master. in each region.

Fruit Wine

COPYRIGHTS Gwasilju is the generic Korean term for fruit-based liquor. The method of making ©KOREA TOURISM ORGANIZATION. gwasilju can be divided into two categories; one is made from naturally fermented fruits ALL RIGHTS RESERVED and the other by mixing fruits and sugars with alcohol, bringing out more fragrant, fruity www.visitkorea.or.kr flavors. Bokbunjaju (Korean black raspberry wine), maesilju (plum liquor), and meoruju

(Korean grape wine) are the most common gwasilju found in supermarkets and depart- ment stores.