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I an Investigation of Isan Textiles at the Village Level in North-Eastern

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I an Investigation of Isan Textiles at the Village Level in North-Eastern An Investigation of Isan Textiles at the Village Level in North-Eastern Thailand with Particular Reference to Design and Manufacturing Strategies Anasee Pengsaa Stone Thesis submitted to the Faculty of Art and Design, University of Canberra for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Environmental Design February 2009 i Abstract This research is set in the context of a collaborative agreement between the Industrial Design Department, University of Canberra and the Faculty of Applied Art and Design at Ubon Rajathanee University in the northeast or Isan region of Thailand. In this thesis the textile production of the region was studied with an objective of evaluating the potential for product design process to positively influence production outcomes. Traditional textile production techniques could be lost because these processes are complex and slow, and the current environment, both physical and operational, is changing rapidly. Product design and the design process are relevant to the industrial development of Thailand and village textile production could benefit from structured design and manufacturing strategies that have a consumer focus and improved production outcomes. From a critical review of the relevant literature, it was found that village weavers valued the traditions of their craft and traditional patterns and colours were important in terms of cultural identity and village social organization. Product design process or more specifically, the Generic Design Process (GDP) was reviewed and a model developed that adapted the GDP to the prevailing research environment. The findings led to a program of field research including village interviews where the major issue of the devaluation of traditional natural material dyeing techniques was identified. Field experiments tested alternative dyeing techniques which were evaluated in a survey by village weavers. During the field research care was taken to adapt to the way in which village weavers lived and worked as the two activities were closely interrelated. The degree of skill and knowledge residing in the aging women, who constitute the majority of village weavers, in extensive and profound, and is often described as an example of local wisdom. The theoretical and experimental work has been related, with appropriate results and conclusions, to the potential for maintaining traditional natural dyeing processes albeit with different preservation techniques. The findings from this research suggests that product design processes are appropriate for village production and that the tradition of natural material colour dyes will survive, new colours were created and the potential for new trade in preserved colour dye products. Substantial databases of useful relevant information have been compiled and recommendations are made for future research. ii Acknowledgements First of all, the author would like to thank my supervisor Dr Don Carson for having given so kindly of his time throughout all the stages of her stay in Australia. The author will forever be grateful to his caring, understanding, and limitless patience. The author wishes to thank Emeritus Professor Dr Elivio Bonollo for his astute supervision, valued guidance, and a huge encouragement to the author. The author is thankful to Dr Dianne Firth, Dr Bill Green, and the staff from Faculty of Arts and Design, University of Canberra. The author is grateful to Professor Dr Prakob Wirojanagud, the President of Ubon Rajathanee University and (the late) Associated Professor Dr Wiroj Srisuro, the foundation Dean of Faculty of Applied Arts and Design for giving the author the research opportunity. The author is also grateful to Assistant Professor Dr Janpen Intaraprasert, the Dean of Faculty of Science for her nice friendship and supervision, and for kindly providing Miss Jiranan Kanapan and Miss Wanwisa Songserm from Department of Chemistry to assist with the experimental program. The author also wishes to thank Dr Kanya Jungvimutipan and the staff from the Faculty of Applied Arts and Design. Special thanks are due to Mrs. Tuanjai Kaewvongsa and 30 villagers from Ban Pa-aw Moo 1-5 for assistance during the experiments and field survey of village opinions. Additional thanks to Mr. Pinai Hongtongdang, Ms. Urai Sroi-soon-gnern, and Ms. Marisa Vorakot- soong-nern for the case study in Nakhon Ratchasima. Importantly, this research occurred principally because of the generosity of the following people who gave interviews; Janhorm Tao-yeun, Vichai Jantawong, Lodd Jai-nan, Songyot Waree-sri, Noi Lapapan, Kanittha Sa-san, Lika Buttrarin, Janmorn Sai-hong, Duangjan Nantralohit, Onnta Sueb- phrom, Prapassorn Pluem-jit, Ammorn Pluem-jit, Punn Tree-jit, Vilai Tong-luan, Cheamjit Suppasorn, Udom Sa-ra-chat, Somporn Nantasan, Kampaew Meerawong, Jantra Chompoojak, Kamsorn Paj-ja, Yon Maliwong, Koom-pa Pan-sri, Pranom Khao- ngam, Ajan Viratum Trakool-ngoen-tai, Bot Tong-sook, Banyat Kleep-muang, Samreun Mee-kaew, Ra-nong Pra-win, Lamyai Dee-yak-dai, Boonmee Panya-ake, Amporn Tong- thisan. Finally, very special thanks are due to the author’s parents Professor Dr Prasit and Professor Dr Krisana Pengsaa, and the author’s husband Mr Gavin Stone and our precious little boy Anakin Tiger, for their enduring support, encouragement, and unconditioned love. iv Table of Contents Title Page i Abstract ii Certificate for Authorship of Thesis iii Acknowledgements iv Contents v List of Appendices x List of Figures xi Glossary of Thai Terms xii Chapter 1: Introduction 1.1 Background 1 1.2 Context and Scope of Research 3 1.3 Aims and Research Questions 5 1.4 Layout of the Thesis 6 Chapter 2: Literature Survey and Information Search Preamble 8 2.1 The Sufficiency Economy in Thailand 9 2.1.1 Background and context to the study 9 2.1.2 Sufficiency Economy 10 2.1.3 History of Royal and Government support for Textile Production 13 2.1.4 One Tambon One Product (OTOP) 14 2.1.5 OTOP: Structure and Management 15 2.1.6 OTOP Today 16 2.1.7 Findings 17 2.2 A Brief History of Textiles in Thailand Preamble 19 2.2.1 Archaeological aspects of Textiles 19 2.2.2 Thai Regional Costumes 21 2.2.3 Thai Textiles Today 27 2.3 Traditional Village Textile Technology Preamble 29 v 2.3.1 Textile production from silk and cotton 29 2.3.2 Weaving Equipment 31 2.3.3 Weaving Techniques and Patterns 33 2.3.4 Patterns 34 2.3.5 Current trends of Isan textile production 35 2.3.6 Findings 36 2.4 Relating colour to design Preamble 37 2.4.1 Colour as a basic variable in textile design 37 2.4.2 Colour and Tradition 39 2.4.3 Colour in Isan Textiles 41 2.4.4 Colours and the natural materials they are derived from 42 2.4.5 Findings from the survey of colour in Isan textiles 44 Chapter 3: Theoretical Development and Constructs 3.1 Preamble 45 3.2 Revue of research proposals in light of literature search findings 46 3.3 Developing a Research Strategy 48 3.3.1 Research Method – Pragmatic verses theoretical 48 3.3 2 Design theory, process and research 50 3.3.3 Models of the design process 52 3.3.4 Product Design and the Generic Design Process (GDP) 54 3.4 The Generic Design Process (GDP) and Design Research Methodology- A theoretical model for investigating the research questions 55 3.5 Summary of theoretical development and constructs 61 Chapter 4: Experimental Program: Research Methodology Surveys and Field Work Preamble 62 4.1 Introduction: Survey and Experimental Program – Scope and Context 62 4.2 Research Methodology Field Surveys and Experiments 65 4.2.1 Research Methodology Survey 1: Understanding textile production in Isan villages 67 vi (Ten Village Interviews) 4.2.2. Interview Theory and Ethical considerations 68 4.2.3 Survey 1: Interview Procedure 70 4.2.4 Survey 1: Details of Subjects 72 4.2.5 Survey 1: Interview Questions 72 4.2.6 Survey 1: Issues with Interview Process 73 4.2.7 Survey 1: Analysis of Data 75 4.3 Research Methodology Preamble - Experimental Program 77 4.3.1 Research Methodology: Survey 2 Part 1 Development of experiment Comparison of Natural Dye Preparations Techniques 79 4.3.1.2 Survey 2 Part 1: Background and benefits of the experiment 80 4.3.1.3 Survey 2 Part 1: Aims and Objectives 81 4.3.1.4 Survey 2 Part 1: Scope of the experiment 81 4.3.1.6 Survey 2 Part 1: Experiment Preparation and additional details 83 4.3.1.7 Analysis of Survey 2 Part 1: Comparison of Natural Dye Preparations Techniques 84 4.4 Analysis of Survey 2 Part 2: Analysis of Natural Dye Preparation Techniques Field Survey of Weavers Opinions 85 4.4.1 Introduction and objectives 85 4.4.2 Survey 2 Part 2: Methods and Analysis 85 4.4.3 Survey 2 Part 2: Details of Subject Samples 87 4.4.4 Survey 2 Part 2: Questions and Explanation for the Questions 87 Chapter 5: Analysis of Experimental Program Preamble 90 5.1 Introduction: Methodology supporting the evaluation of the experiments 90 5.2 Survey 1: Analysis of Understanding textile production in Isan villages Ten Village Interviews 91 5.2.1 Impact of an Aging Textile Worker Population 93 5.2.2 The Importance of Textile Production and Tradition in Isan 93 5.2.3 Village Textile Production: the people and how they work 94 5.2.4 Knowledge and Skill Acquisition 96 vii 5.2.5 Textile Workers and Village Organization 96 5.2.6 Textile Production 97 5.2.7 Survey1: Conclusions and Research directions 103 5.3 Introduction to Survey 2: Experimental Program Survey 2 Part 1: Comparison of Natural Dye Preparations Techniques 106 5.3.1.1 Organisation 108 5.3.1.2 Selection of Natural Material 108 5.3.1.3 Experimental Equipment and Procedure 109 5.3.1.4 Trial 110 5.3.2 Conclusions
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