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Battersea Matters

Battersea Matters

Battersea Matters the newsletter of the Society SPRING 2020 Battersea through your eyes Duncan Parish introduces the Battersea Society’s photography competition

hat does How can you enter? Battersea The competition is open now and Wmean to will run until 20 April. Entries can be you? To celebrate the made via the Society’s website at Society’s 55th birthday, batterseasociety.org.uk/mybattersea. that is what we will be Entries should comprise a single asking our members, digital image and be taken in or our friends and those have some connection to Battersea. who live and work here Full terms and conditions are as we launch our first available on the website. ever photo competition, Prizes will be awarded in three on the theme My categories: Age 10 and under Battersea. (£100), 11 to 17 (£150) and 18 and The competition is open to all, over (£250) with a further prize of whether you have honed your eye today; others enjoy Battersea as a £250 for the overall winner. for years setting up those perfect thriving modern borough with new Finalists will receive a framed print Instagram shots, or you just like to and vibrant architecture. For many the of their photo to keep and winners will take photos on your phone. A simple appeal is in our diverse communities also receive a year’s membership of snap could put you in with a chance to and the huge range of cultural events the Battersea Society. win our top prize of £500 and see your on offer; while others love the freedom The Society’s chair, Jenny work feature in our spring exhibition and calm of our open spaces. Sheridan, will be joined on the hosted by the . And not everything in Battersea judging panel by Hermione Wiltshire, is positive, we understand that. artist and senior tutor in photography Why a photo competition? Whatever your Battersea is we would at the Royal College of Art and Alan First, we wanted something that was like to see it. Burles, photographer, long time accessible to all. Fact: more photos They say a picture paints a Battersea resident and winner of are taken every two minutes than over thousand words and we hope that the 2018 Leica Street Photography the whole of the nineteenth century. seeing people’s photos will give International Award. It is estimated that over 1.2 trillion us a sense of what the borough We are also hugely grateful to the photos were taken in 2017. And over really feels like to those who live Royal College of Art who have agreed 1.8 billion photos are uploaded on and work here. By understanding to exhibit the finalists in each category Facebook, Instagram and other sites more about your Battersea we can at their Dyson Gallery on Battersea every single day. better shape the Society’s work as Bridge Road. Today most people both young we head towards our 60th birthday. The overall winner of the and old carry a smartphone around competition will be announced at Third, we hope it will help everyone with them. We hope that means the opening of our ‘My Battersea’ see a bit of Battersea they might as many people as possible exhibition which will be open to the not have looked at before. The will take the chance to enter. public from 21 to 24 May with a American photographer, Elliott private view for Battersea Society Second, we want to explore what Erwitt, said, ‘to me, photography members on the 20th. Battersea means to those who live is an art of observation. It’s about The competition is open to and work here. finding something interesting in an members and the general public alike, Running the Society’s social media ordinary place’. Far be it for us to so do please encourage your friends, pages over the last year I’ve noticed call Battersea an ordinary place, but family and colleagues to take part. We that Battersea means many different we do believe that even those of us would love to give the judges a real things to different people. Some who have lived here all our lives can challenge! Facebook groups revel in our rich find something new in even familiar Duncan Parish is a trustee of the heritage, still visible in our streetscape places if we just look hard enough. Battersea Society

Don’t forget to visit our website: batterseasociety.org.uk for regular updates on Battersea Society news, events and planning matters From the editor former self with, among a few street Amazon, where they were cheaper. food stalls, just one remaining fruit It was no longer possible to run Twenty and vegetable stall. And now one of the business at a loss. The shop years ago, the last independent specialist shops has closed. No more keyboards to Northcote has closed. hire or saxophone reeds to buy, no Road had more quarter-size guitars for budding a small but Expertise musicians or repairs for violinists. No still solid The Northcote Music Shop ended its more in-depth advice on the best remnant of life not, as in previous times, because instrument to suit an enthusiastic its flourishing of a rent increase or high business child. There’s another boarded up street market. rates, but because of the internet. space on the high street. The street was known for its variety of Shoppers would come in, make Amazon pays £1.2 million tax in food and other independent shops. A use of the owner’s expertise (he is a the UK on £2,400 million revenue. professional musician), take photos of decade later, many of the Italian and Jenny Sheridan the instruments they intended to buy, other delis had closed but several [email protected] and then calmly inform the owner independent shops remained. Now 020 7350 2749 the street market is a shadow of its that they were going to buy them on

Man on the Battersea Bus are all named after women from history who lived or worked near Mike Roden looks back to a simpler world, and forward to who ’s construction sites, and knows what… Rachel is working tirelessly under our stretch of the river. If you know who the original Rachel was, please let me ‘Are you sitting comfortably? Then I’ll see my breath visible in the air. As know. begin….’ a kid I often used to walk to school Anyway, it demonstrates that things This well-known phrase first turned pretending to blow out smoke from can get better, and while efforts to up at 1.45pm on 16 January 1950 at one of those sweet cigarettes with the avoid the worst effects of climate the beginning of the first appearance red tipped end you could buy in those change are lacklustre, governments of Listen with Mother on the BBC days. and individuals are starting to wake up Light Programme. It was apparently One of the regular Listen with and take some action. an ad-lib by the presenter and story- Mother songs was Here We Go As a household we try to do reader Julia Lang. Round the Mulberry Bush with the our bit by only travelling on public The sharp-eyed among you last line of each verse – ‘On a cold transport, recycling everything we will have noticed that it’s just over and frosty morning’. As I walked can, and (mindful of the methane seventy years since the programme briskly along I found produced every time a cow aimed at ‘Mothers and children at myself singing it burps) reducing our meat home’ had its first outing. in my head. As consumption. Commerce the earth heats has leapt on that Wireless up how much bandwagon, bringing us The memory conjures up an idealised longer will we have Gregg’s sausage roll, and black and white image of children frosty mornings, I that burger oozing with listening rapt in front of the wireless, wonder? beetroot blood (both of mother busy in the kitchen, and the For much of the which had the excellent man of the house out at work. At 19th and 20th centuries side effect of upsetting Piers its peak, it pulled in over a million there were great advances in Morgan). By themselves they’re listeners, me among them. But my science and engineering. Hopefully no solution of course, but we must daughters never listened to it, and we won’t return to the days of the suppose that every little helps. I’m sure my grandchildren wouldn’t Great Stink with the Thames an open I ought to point out that the earliest abandon their screens for it. By the sewer. Joseph Bazalgette’s massive recorded use of that phrase predates seventies a BBC survey found that sewer improvements held the Tesco’s slogan by around 400 years. I half the audience consisted of long back (so to speak) for a very long don’t know if my mum knew that but distance lorry drivers. Clearly the time, and now the Tideway Tunnel her version was ‘Every little helps, as show’s days were numbered, and it project aims to cope with ’s the little boy said as he…’ To avoid was axed in 1982. increasing output of sewage. Four causing offence, I’ll merely state that So why, you ask yourselves, am I giant tunnel-boring machines have the child was standing by the sea at telling you all this? This year on a few already completed almost 9km of the the time. days the roof of the school opposite projected 25km of tunnels – and are And hopefully having avoided our flat has been white with frost. close to completing the stretch from cheapening the tone, I’ll bid you When I ventured out it was odd to Battersea to . The machines goodbye for now. Mind how you go.

2 The revised Planning Matters: Why do we plan for the Winstanley bother? Estate Monica Tross grinds her teeth

I find it hard not to feel a mix of substantially the despondency and anger at the project will continue to news that ’s planning lack viability.’ You do committee has approved plans for the have to wonder at the Winstanley scheme. This increases business competence the density from around 900 to of companies who 2550 units of which a mere 35% are undertake building ‘affordable’. projects which won’t We have been reviewing and make a profit for their commenting on plans for this shareholders! development for at least the past six years, first sending comments to impact this would have. By the time the Council in 2014, at which time Mixed news here. The bad news is you read this our letter will be on our we had been told that the scheme that the same committee approved website. The planning committee would retain at least the current yet higher density on the South deferred a decision on the application proportion of affordable and full London Mail Centre site (2019/2250) for a tall building in Yelverton Road, social rented accommodation ie 42% and a proposal for an office building 2019/2295 which was proposed for (WBC committee paper No 12-679 the design of which both we and approval. This was not because of November 2012). the Design Review Panel found the exterior design but rather the In February 2018 we wrote of our lacking (2019/2293). You can see interior. The Council’s policies call disappointment that the Council our letters in full on our website. for developments to be designed hadn’t been able to negotiate an I suppose the better news for us to a high quality and to contribute affordable percentage above 35% is that the decisions have been positively to local spatial character especially as there was already talk taken, so at least this year we won’t and it appears that most if not all of an increased height for some have to pore through masses of of what is applied for meets these blocks. Our final letter, in February documentation. On a happier note, criteria, in the view of planning 2019, again fruitless, expressed major we were welcomed to a (muddy) site officers and councillors. reservations about the design, the visit of the R&F development at the size of the development, the amount eastern end of Nine Elms and were THERE IS SOME GOOD NEWS of affordable housing and the fact somewhat more hopeful about the We have consistently objected to that the Council had recently rejected mix of open space and buildings on applications for ‘telephone boxes’ a proposal to increase the amount of this site, which contains the entrance which are really large advertising affordable housing by 290 units. to the Linear Park alongside a large hoardings. In the past these have Strangely this development is one hotel complex on the corner of been exempt from the planning which the developer is going into Wandsworth Road. And in relation process as ‘permitted development’ knowing that the figures show that to daylight, we are told that R&F and applicants have appealed against no profit will be made. Or in other Properties intend to use a very high- a refusal. Council words, it ‘lacks viability’. We have quality glass specification to the has led the way in contending seen this with other developments lower floors of the development to that exemption only applied to although, as in other cases, the maximise the amount of daylight. structures with the sole purpose of developer is keen to assure us that is providing a payphone, so that where they are prepared to take the hit and amending the design of the long the structure was dual purpose supply some affordable housing. Or block to the west of the Frank Gehry there was no exemption. This has as they put it: ‘Notwithstanding the building to separate a section for become accepted by Planning results of the viability modelling, the office use at the southern end. This Inspectors (and will be ratified in Applicant is willing to proceed at seems fine to us and we will not be future government legislation) so the these levels of affordable housing commenting (2019/5606). scourge of unwanted advertisements on the basis that the deficit is taken on the footway in and into account within any future review CHATFIELD AND YELVERTON elsewhere has been fended off. mechanism’. We think this means ROADS Feedback appreciated. ‘given that we won’t be making any Not much to be happy about here We always like to hear from our money out of this don’t come back to either. Plans for a new building in members so do let us have any us in the future to ask for more than Chatfield Road for The Collective comments on this article, or on the minimum number of affordable are in, 2019/5484 and we and many planning in general. housing because unless costs lower neighbours are not happy with the [email protected]

3 Age matters Michael Jubb looks at the 2019 election results in Battersea and its neighbours

The 2019 General Election gave 2040. But the proportion varies in Inset: Marsha de Cordova, the Conservative Party its biggest different parts of the country; and Battersea’s recently re-elected MP majority for over 30 years. But the variations are growing. Much of Battersea and its neighbouring London and of other large cities have Arundel, North Norfolk or Totnes. If constituencies did not reflect the high proportions of young people, we look at proportions of over-65s, national result. In Battersea, Marsha while parts of the south coast, the Battersea comes 558th out of de Cordova doubled the majority east coast and Wales, for the 573 constituencies for Labour, while in Rosena example, have higher with 10.3%; Tooting Allin-Khan retained her seat, and in proportions of over-65s. 549thth with 11.6%; Fleur Anderson registered In 1961, these older and Putney 533rd, Labour’s only gain of the Election. people represented with 13.9%.The This was part of a wider pattern 16% of the voting- range across all across the 73 seats in London, which age population in constituencies now has 49 Labour MPs, a quarter Battersea, not far is remarkable, of its total for the whole UK; while below the average from 7.7% the Conservatives have 21 MPs, and of 19% for the (Poplar and the Lib Dems three. Why did London whole UK. But as we Limehouse) produce such a distinctive result? shall see, Battersea to 41.4% One of the most striking findings and its neighbouring (Christchurch). about the Election was the difference constituencies have One of the in voting behaviour between younger become younger as other most striking things and older people. In the 1970s, more constituencies have grown older. about these rank orders is the than a quarter of 18 – 24 year-olds concentration of Labour MPs in voted Conservative, and just over Voting behaviour younger-age constituencies. Of the 40% of 65 year-olds did so. But in Both age and geographical 100 constituencies with the lowest 2019, only 19% of 18 – 24 year-olds differences are made even sharper proportion of over-65s, the first 64 voted Conservative, while 62% of when it comes to voting behaviour. all have Labour MPs, with the single over-65s did so, with the proportions First, not everyone is on the electoral exception of Pavilion, held almost exactly reversed for those in register. It is estimated that the by Caroline Lucas for the Greens. the two age-groups voting Labour. registers are around 85% complete Altogether, there are 88 Labour MPs, This three-to-one difference in voting across Great Britain (76% in London; 9 Conservatives, and one each for behaviour is unprecedented. and probably 81% in Battersea). But the Greens and the Lib Dems in those registration varies by age: 94% of 100 seats. And the 100 seats with Striking over-65s but only 68% of 20 – 24 the highest proportions of over-65s What are the reasons for this growing year-olds are on the electoral register. show an even more marked pattern. division between younger and older Second, pollsters estimate that while No fewer than 94 of them are held by voters? Is there a generation born under half of 25 – 34 year-olds turn Conservative MPs, with three each for in the decades either side of the out to vote, over three-quarters of Labour and Plaid Cymru. Second World War that is especially over-65s do so. Research by Age I am not suggesting that age is the likely to vote Conservative; or do UK suggests that as a result, in an only lens through which to see the individuals become more likely to increasing number of constituencies, results of the General Election; social vote Conservative as they get older? over-65s represent over half of those class, sex, race and variances in It’s probably a combination of the who actually vote. local social and economic conditions two. But one of the most striking of So how did age affect the results all clearly influence the results. But the pollsters’ findings in 2019 is that of the 2019 Election at constituency divergences in electoral behaviour the age when individuals became level? I used the Office of National by age – and just as significant, the more likely to vote Conservative than Statistics’ estimates to calculate the growing differences in the age profile Labour fell to 39. In the 1970s it was proportion of different age groups in of voters in constituencies across the around 56. the voting-age population for each UK, and the associated variations in This age divide is likely to become of the 573 constituencies in election results – are clearly going to more marked as the proportion and Wales. The first thing to note be an important part of the electoral of over-65s in the UK continues is that Battersea has the highest landscape for many years to come. to grow. It has risen from 19% of proportion (47.8%) of 25 – 39 year- Age does matter, and how we change the voting-age population in 1970 olds in the country, nearly twice the our voting behaviour as we grow to 23% now; and is expected to national average, and more than three older is something political parties rise to 27% by 2030, and 29% by times the proportion in seats such as ignore at their peril.

4 It’s not all doom and gloom What has happened in the last ten years? Monica Tross looks back at past Battersea Matters

Back in the Spring of 2010 we raised took their A levels last year and frequency of the 170 have rumbled a concern about the preservation outperformed the national average on over the years. These remain very of Brian Barnes’ splendid mural in in every subject. Perhaps it isn’t too much a concern as the developers of Dagnall Street. The old Haberdashers’ surprising that 100% of Bolingbroke the many new buildings in Lombard Arms in Culvert Road was to be students were awarded an A* to C and York Roads cite the high public redeveloped as flats and there pass in French but they performed transport access available to their was no mention of the mural in the better than the average across the residents in support of their dense application material. We whole range of proposals. alerted Wandsworth Council subjects. Many to the need to preserve it have gone on to Stylish and they set its retention as universities across The 19 has featured too. Who would a condition for their approval the country and have thought that Vogue had once of the application. Ten years I was pleased to designated the 19 bus route ‘one later it can still be seen in hear that degree of the 14 most stylish locations in Dagnall Street just round the choices cover Britain’! In 2009 we reported that corner from Culvert Road on a wide range the Heatherwick update of the old the back wall of the building. from Architecture Routemaster was being tried out on Brian’s mural work is thriving to Veterinary the 19 route – and now we learn that with a recent commission Science by way these buses are going to be front for Carey Gardens, featured of Physics. Check opening only because fare evasion in our Summer 2018 issue out their website is too high. But at least the 19 is still and to be seen at 189 Carey for more news, running Gardens on a bend of Condell Road (arkbolingbrokeacademy.org) You’ll be Not all the news from the past SW8 off Stewarts Road. Here’s a too late for their performance of ‘We is as happy. I could write about reminder of them both (check out the Will Rock You’ but I’m sure there will our continued efforts to encourage website version later on to see them be more shows open to the public. improvements at Junction in glorious colour). Back then we also worried about station and, on the roads, the the wonderful tiles in the hospital, problems at the junction of Battersea Non-selective which showed many well-known Church Road and Bolingbroke Academy is another nursery rhymes. They were made by Road. But enough of that, there is a success story. In Spring 2010 we Simpson & Carter and were installed BID in place (see reported on calls for a new secondary around the new children’s ward when Michael Jubb’s article, Battersea school on the site of the Bolingbroke it opened in 1927. Good news here Matters Summer 2019) and we have Hospital. The new non-selective Ark too, they are safely installed in the set up friendly links with the station Academy school opened in 2012, at library at Bolingbroke Academy – see manager – and convinced him first with just one year group with the illustration. that his station is indeed Clapham another added each year until it Buses, trains – and even boats Junction, not Clapham. reached the final goal in 2018 of of the duck variety – have featured 800 pupils covering all year groups over the years. Was the move to including a Sixth Form. The current combine the merging of the 170 Inset: One of the nursey rhyme tile panels in the library at mix of pupils is narrowly skewed and 239 routes such a good idea? Bolingbroke Academy towards boys at 55% of the total. Views were mixed back in 2009 and Below: Brian Barnes and his That first group of Year 7s concerns about the capacity and colourful murals

5 What’s in a name? Tony Belton investigates the naming of estates, roads and individual buildings in North Battersea

Most of north Battersea was and his redoubtable opponent developed by private speculators Charles James Fox, to Wilberforce’s in the second half of the nineteenth right-hand man Thomas Clarkson century or by local authorities in the and his successor as leader of the late twentieth century and the names abolitionists Thomas Buxton. reflect their history and their interests. And so on to the 1960s where again Tooting-born Cyril Flower, the naming of estate blocks reflects ennobled in 1892 as The Baron both events of the time and significant Battersea of Battersea in the County local figures. So, alongside Gagarin of London and of Overstrand in the Court, named after the first Soviet County of Norfolk, was probably the cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin, stands richest and most important of the Shepherd Court, named after the first private developers. American into space (though it should Flower made much of his money be noted that whilst Yuri went into as a young man in Australia before orbit, John was merely shot into space returning to Britain to marry a for a few hundred miles). Other blocks Rothschild daughter. He was a Battersea Borough Council, became are named after the Tory council leader Liberal MP representing first Brecon a major developer with the start in Thomas Sendall, the powerful Labour and then Luton, but with little record 1903 of the Latchmere Estate. The leader and housing boss Sid(ney) of ever going to either. He bought the spine of the estate was named Burns Sporle and numerous councillors such area south of the newly developed Road after , the dominant as Shaw Court, Carmichael and Clark and developed the councillor and in 1906 the first so- Lawrence Courts. mansion blocks, including Overstrand, called working-class member of the named after his summer retreat in Cabinet. The workerist-dominated Raptors Norfolk. Other blocks were named council (the Labour Party was not Later in the twentieth century the after his own name, Cyril, and a close formally established until 1906 and move to the privatisation of council friend and fellow Liberal MP, Edward Burns like many of his colleagues estates led to a new trend. For Primrose, Lord Rosebery. At the was a member of the Liberal Party) example Jay Court, named after time of the mansion development proceeded to name Matthews Street Douglas Jay, Battersea MP (1946- the Prince of Wales was the main after a close political ally of Burns 83) and one-time President of the focus of the British court. The other and Odger Street after an active Board of Trade, now has the rather mansion block name on Prince of member of the Chartists half a unoriginal and boring moniker of Park Wales Drive was York Mansions, century earlier. Two other appropriate South. A more interesting example of derived perhaps from Battersea’s role but abstract names were Freedom private sector naming can be seen in earlier times as the London home and Reform Streets, but the most in the Falcons Estate, where the of the Archbishop of York. startling street name is undoubtedly new consistent ornithological raptor Joubert Street. Piet Joubert was a names of Hawk, Harrier, Peregrine, Afghan war famous and respected Boer general Osprey, Eagle, Kite and Kestrel At the other end of the scale Edna, during the contemporaneous Boer Houses replace the varied names of Ursula and Octavia Streets, in the War. It was a bit like naming a new the old Livingstone Estate: Sampson, area known as the Three Sisters road in London in the 1940s Rommel Webster, Burne Jones, Bancroft, Conservation Area, are named after Street after the much-respected Irving, Lush and Bridgefield Courts. the developer’s three daughters, German general. The name was a There are so many more stories according to local tradition, although very striking statement of the anti- to tell about naming. Why and who the massively authoritative Survey of imperialist sentiment on the left here. decided to call an estate after a London states rather more prosaically Perhaps an even more evident county – Somerset - and name that they were the names of his two statement both of historical every block in it after a west country (consecutive) wives and his mother. connections and of political inclination village? Many of us know who Meanwhile, only half a mile away, the can be seen in the post-war London was but who or late nineteenth century development County Council built Wilberforce what were Inkster, Lucas, Beattie, of Kandahar, Nepaul, Afghan, Cabul Estate, named after the famous Bonsor and a hundred others. and Khyber Roads clearly reflects Battersea resident and anti-slavery So, what’s in a name? It may be a the battles and events of the Second campaigner . The personal history, childhood memory Anglo-Afghan War of 1878 – 80. The blocks on that estate, in Maysoule or a local event – it can be fascinating modern Zulu Mews, built in 2009 – 10 Road, are all named after major to find out. maintains the tradition. figures in the anti-slavery campaign, Tony Belton is Labour councillor for A few years later the local authority, from Prime Minister William Pitt Latchmere ward.

6 Murders in the Mansions Janice Morphet reveals where the bodies are buried

Two queens of the golden age of General Hospital. This was opened in Leopold Mansions. It was a big crime fiction, Dorothy L Sayers and 1903 at 33 Prince of Wales Drive by block of mansion flats looking out Agatha Christie both set novels in the anti-vivisectionists, a stand that later over Battersea Park. Number 45 mansion blocks on Prince of Wales made it difficult to attract funding. was on the second floor’. Here the Drive. Christie had lived there for a It dropped its objections to animal body is found in a metal chest in a short while with her first husband testing in 1935, finally closing in 1972 lumber room. It had been there for a Archie when they returned from their and being demolished in 1974. month with the face battered to an round the world tour to promote the unrecognizable shape. Unlike Whose British Empire Exhibition in 1922. Coal holes Body?, this is not the first murder but However, Dorothy L Sayers located The location of the bathroom in the it provides an essential clue to the part of the plot of her first flat is clearly set out and proves solution, as the women is wearing a Peter Wimsey novel, central to the plot, ‘the flat was buckled shoe. Whose Body? there first. the top one of the building and Unlike Sayers, this was Christie’s Sayers did not live situated about the middle twenty-third Poirot novel, with in Battersea but after of the block. The bathroom the first The Mysterious Affair at she came down from window looked out upon the Styles being published in 1920. It Oxford she had a backyards of the flats which was memorable for being the last range of jobs and were occupied by various appearance of Inspector Japp. was not clear about small outbuildings, coal-holes, Christie used the nursery what she wanted to do. garages and the like. Beyond rhyme chapter device in One of these posts was these were the back gardens other books including teaching at Clapham High of a parallel line of houses. Hickory Dickory School in Nightingale Lane. On the right rose the extensive Dock (1955) and When she first moved to London edifice of St Luke’s Hospital And Then There in 1920 she lived at 36 St George’s Battersea…’ that was led by Were None (1939), Square, , and was doing Sir Julian Freke, a distinguished both for the Collins translating work. While in Pimlico, neurologist, famous for his Crime Club series. influenced by the work of Sexton daily dissections of cadavers. One Two… was a Blake, she started to write about As the plot plays out, the action book which dealt with Peter Wimsey. Whose Body? was moves away from Queen Caroline’s overtly political issues published in 1923, by which time she Mansions but returns for the solution including fascism and the was copywriting, living in a small flat of the crime, in which the body in the left. It has always been regarded as with a baby and was short of money. bath is an important element of the one of her darkest works. The creation of Lord Peter Wimsey, wider net of family intrigue. she said, gave her the opportunity to Agatha Christie’s One Two Buckle Mystery spend money and live in a grander My Shoe, a Hercule Poirot novel, Both Sayers and Christie went on to style in her imagination. was published in 1940 as part of write many more books in which Lord the Collins Crime Club series. Each Peter Wimsey and Poirot featured. Pince-nez chapter takes a line from the rhyme Both of these novels have recently The plot starts with a dead body as its heading and it is not until become available in a serialized form wearing nothing but a pince-nez ‘Seven, Eight, Lay Them Straight’ that on BBC Radio 4 Extra while Poirot being found in the bath of an the body of woman is discovered at episodes are available on ITV 3. Why architect, Throgmorton, who is 45 King Leopold Mansions, Battersea did Sayers and Christie both dispose working on Wimsey’s mother’s Park. Inspector Japp of Scotland of their bodies in the mansions church. Throgmorton lives in Yard summons Poirot to view the on Prince of Wales Drive? That is 59 Queen Caroline Mansions in body, ‘a quarter of an hour later a another mystery…. Battersea opposite the Battersea taxi deposited Poirot outside King

Inset left: Agatha Christie Inset right: Dorothy L Sayers

7 Great Bus Journeys of the World No 26 Mike Roden takes the number 13 from Victoria to North

Early January, waiting at a crowded Arch of course. In 1827 John Nash’s was part of the vast area of land bus stop on Grosvenor Gardens near intention was that this would be the appropriated by Henry VIII. John Victoria Station. The Scots have a state entrance to . Nash – friend of the Prince Regent – word for the kind of weather that’s It’s never seemed completely at ease was largely responsible for the layout hanging over London. It’s dreich: here since it arrived in 1851. and design of the park, pretty much oppressively damp, cold, dreary and Passing Station the as we know it today. The great British misty. Thankfully the number 13 bus bus stops on outside public wasn’t allowed access until rolls up straight away, and I install Primark. When the store arrived here 1835, and then only for two days a myself on the upper deck. Soon we’re in April 2007, shoppers fought to be week. heading past Jagger’s magnificent the first inside after false rumours of a Artillery Memorial and round Hyde sale. It is much quieter today. The bus Park Corner. turns left up Orchard Street alongside We pass the London Business The statue of Achilles watches Selfridge’s Food Hall and we’re School, founded in 1964. us as the bus turns up . soon on . The Wallace Further along Park Road is the Unveiled on the seventh anniversary Collection isn’t far from here, just turn London Central with its of the Battle of Waterloo, this was right along Robert Adam Street to prominent golden dome. It was commissioned by ‘the Ladies of find it. completed in 1977. The main hall England’, in honour of the Duke of I wonder how many Prêt a Manger can accommodate over 5,000 Wellington. The fig leaf arrived soon customers notice the blue plaque on worshippers. afterwards to calm public outrage at the wall above the shop reminding And now begins the long journey the naked statue. them that William Pitt the Younger along Finchley Road. We’re at the lived in the building from 1803 – 4. posh end here in St John’s Wood. Luxury Just after we’ve crossed the busy In the thirteenth century the area Park Lane – once a simple country Road, there’s another was farmland belonging to St John’s road – eventually became one of the plaque outside the door of Chiltern Priory in . During the most fashionable roads in London. Court telling the world that Eric Reformation the land was sold off to Notable early residents included the Coates lived there for nine years from wealthy noblemen. 1st Duke of Westminster, the Dukes 1930. He was of course the man Lord’s Cricket Ground is named of Somerset and Disraeli. Many of who gave us the stirring Dambusters after its founder, Thomas Lord. their houses are now the site of luxury March and the soporific By the Originally situated just north of hotels, like the Earl of Dorchester’s Sleepy Lagoon which has introduced Marylebone Road the ground moved place we’re passing now. The Desert Island Discs since 1942. here in its permanent home in 1814. Dorchester is one of the world’s most Among a great many claims to fame it prestigious and expensive hotels. It 221B is also the home of the world’s oldest opened on 18 April 1931, and it still The highlight of many a tourist’s visit sporting museum. retains its 1930 Art Deco style despite to Baker Street appears on our left Now we see St John’s Wood extensive modernisation. It’s currently as we near Regents Park. Since 1990 Station which opened in 1939. A owned by the Sultan of Brunei. this once unassuming Georgian town plaque on a nearby wall proclaims Over to our right is the Animals house has been the privately-run (a little unspecifically) that the poet in War Memorial designed by David Sherlock Holmes Museum. In homage Thomas Hood (1799 – 1845) ‘lived Backhouse which was unveiled by to the stories and by permission and died here’. One of his best Princess Anne in November 2004, on of Westminster council it bears the known poems ‘The Song of the Shirt’ the 90th anniversary of the start of number 221B although it lies between appeared in Punch in 1843, and World War 1. numbers 237 and 241. It’ll cost you depicts the downtrodden drudgery of We’re near where £15 to take a look inside. the life of a seamstress. the Tyburn gallows hosted public The bus forges onward onto Park may take its name executions for four hundred years Road alongside Regents Park. Like from an inn which in 1804 was until 1793. You can’t miss Marble most of the other royal parks this built on the site of a former tollgate

8 Left to right: The Dorchester Hotel, Park Lane; William Note: All of the Great Bus We’re soon crossing the busy North Pitt the Younger; the London Central Mosque, Park Journeys have been cleverly Circular, and passing over the Dollis Road; Sigmund Freud;, , Finchley extracted from Battersea Matters and can be Valley Greenwalk, a 10 mile long downloaded from footpath which mainly follows Dollis www.batterseabus.co.uk Brook and is designed to act as a link between the Capital Ring and the London Loop. At Allandale Road the bus stops near College Farm. Originally called Sheephouse Farm this was purchased by Express Dairies and run as a model dairy farm. Since then it has had a rather chequered career. Things started to go downhill keeper’s cottage in the style of a Yadikar and her husband Ablikim in January 1898 when the head Swiss chalet. The bus stops just Rahman who have lived for many cowman was shot dead. Despite the beyond the underground station years in this country and already have arrival of Chief Inspector Harry Moore of the same name. We’re on the a restaurant in . The from , his investigation edge of South , with the menu covers a range of traditional here was no more successful than Central College of Speech and Drama Uyghur dishes, notably ‘big plate his attempts to track down Jack the very close by. This was founded by chicken’ — prepared with fresh Ripper, and Thomas Webb’s murder Elsie Fogerty in 1906. Nearby is the hand-pulled noodles, chicken pieces, remains unsolved. Over the years , known for its vegetables and a rich, aromatic gravy. much of the land was sold off and commissioning of new work. If that’s made your mouth water, you the farm became a visitor centre. This Finchley Road underground station know how to get there. had to close in 2001 because of the is only a few minutes walk from the After another ten minutes or so foot and mouth outbreak and has house where Sigmund Freud and his of looking out at nothing but small never re-opened. daughter came when they escaped shops, houses and flats I spot a solid Onwards we go along the never- from the Nazi annexation of Austria looking war memorial with a four- ending Finchley Road, into Church in 1938. He spent the last year of his faced clock tower on top. This was End and past Finchley Central life here. Anna remained there until dedicated in 1923 and tells me we’re Station. Victoria Park is a popular her death in 1982. She bequeathed now in . I last came local amenity with ornamental the house to become a memorial to this way on the 328 bus from Worlds gardens, playgrounds and a café. her father and it opened as a museum End in Chelsea, when Golders Green Opened in 1902 it was created on the in 1986. The Freuds were permitted underground station was journey’s site of Colby’s Farm where Charles to bring all their belongs when they end for me. This time I carry on along Dickens was staying when he wrote left Austria and at the heart of the the seemingly endless Finchley Road. part of Martin Chuzzlewit. museum is Freud’s study and his Like most of the towns on the After another ten minutes passing famous couch. fringes of north London this is through a mainly residential area, The home of Camden Arts Centre essentially a late Victorian suburban shops begin to appear and the bus which we pass soon afterwards development. The large Jewish arrives at Bus station was originally Hampstead Central community took root here after Hitler’s and journey’s end. A short walk takes Library which opened in 1897 but rise to power, and by the 1950s the me to the artsdepot (the name looks was replaced by a modern building Jewish population had more than odd but that’s the way they like to elsewhere in Swiss Cottage. The Arts doubled. Hoop Lane to the right leads write it!). This opened in 2004 and Centre took over in 1965 and became down to Golders Green Crematorium among other things incorporates two a community art college and gallery. – the long list of famous cremations theatres and drama, dance and art includes Kingsley Amis, Joyce studios, along with a café and bar. Uyghurs Grenfell, Irene Handl, Doris Lessing, The place is full of enthusiastic and We’re heading up towards and Eric Coates whose rather noisy dance students, but the Golders Green. I’d been reading blue plaque we saw earlier. excellent coffee and a muffin restore very recently about the detention by A few minutes later we’re in the me to life, and I stroll briskly downhill the Chinese government of a million area known as . The to West Finchley station and thence Muslims in the north west of the name probably derives from the via the to Euston, and country. Most of these are from the Knights Templar who owned land in onwards to Victoria and home on the Turkic speaking community of Uyghur the area. The arrival of Finchley Road 170. And just in case you’re wondering people in Xiang province. There are resulted in the usual 19th century the weather was still as dreich as ever. only around 200 Uyghurs living in development of the area. Since the Britain so it’s something of a surprise early twentieth century this has been london.eater.com/ to see Etles Uyghur restaurant here used as a shopping area by those 2018/2/22/17039556/etles-london- in South Finchley. The owners of this living in the nearby Hampstead first-authentic-uyghur-restaurant recently opened venue are Mukaddes Garden suburb.

9 Value added volunteering enjoy reading. There’s good evidence that if they do then they will do better Do you want to help a child to read? Jenny Sheridan finds out how in other subjects too. You have to work out how do this. One of the kids I’m working with likes doing voices Why do people work for free? What Beanstalk and Bookmark. so we’re reading a play, each taking do they get out of doing something Beanstalk started in 1973, joining different parts. Another can read for nothing? In other words, why the Coram group of charities in 2019. aloud well but has difficulties with volunteer? Over the next few issue It trains volunteer reader helpers comprehension, so that’s what I’m of Battersea Matters, we’ll look at to work with children aged 3-13 working on. these issues and at some of the areas to improve their reading skills and ‘I don’t always see progress but where volunteers get involved. confidence and help them to enjoy sometimes it’s very clear, especially People may decide to do some books. The volunteer engages with when the kid has English as a second work on a voluntary basis when they pupils on a one-to-one basis over a language. And there is a real value for are students, in paid work or after whole school year, usually the same a child in having one-to-one time with they retire. There are benefits at every two or three children each week. an adult whose whole attention is just stage. For students, it’s a good way With early years children (nursery on them.’ of developing new skills, it looks age 3 – 4) each session is 20 minutes Beanstalk is also launching a good on a CV and is a positive factor long, with primary school pupils series of workshops for parents, in job interviews. they are 30 minutes, in both cases grandparents or others who would For working people it’s a chance to twice a week. This is a large time like to learn how to help children read. do something different from the day commitment but Beanstalk feels that The next Creating Readers workshop job, and may prove less stressful. It the consistency is important for the in London is on 6 March. could point the way to a change of child to build up trust and confidence. career as well as a way to connect Training consists of a day based Training with one’s local community. around children’s potential difficulties Bookmark is a new charity, set up in After retirement, with more time to with reading and how best to help early 2018 and currently working in pick and choose one’s occupations, in a way that is fun as well as 11 schools in Wandsworth including involvement with a charity, hospital purposeful. Chesterton and Allfarthing. The or school can enable someone either Battersea Society trustee Carol charity offers schools a six-week to pick up new skills or to develop Rahn is in her fifth year of volunteering programme of two half-hour sessions those used in employment. It offers with Beanstalk. At Christchurch per week. The programme is aimed at new challenges and can also revive Primary School she has worked with pupils in years 1 – 3. the experience of working in a team children in years 2, 3 and 4 (ages six Following a three-hour training and a sense of identity which retired to eight) often working with the same session (which can be completed people sometimes say they miss. children throughout the year. ‘It’s a online) the volunteer arranges their At any stage of life, finding the major commitment, taking a chunk of sessions with the school using an right volunteer role should result in time out of two afternoons a week, but app on their mobile phone. He or she feeling valued and the sense that one I enjoy spending time with children,’ works with the child for half an hour is making a difference, whether to she says. ‘And the school is friendly twice a week. The programme can one individual, an organisation or to and sociable. The teacher I work be extended from six weeks to 12 society more broadly. And it can be with is very supportive and available, or more if the teacher feels the child very enjoyable. Many people become though teachers are incredibly busy. needs more support. serial volunteers. In this article I will ‘Our objective is to help children to Many Bookmark volunteers take look at some opportunities for work on the role while they are working, as the six hour programme fits with the with children, especially around A Beanstalk volunteer at Clerkenwell reading, such a vital life skill. Primary School Employer Supported Volunteering programme. One third are Low literacy students while others may Twenty five percent of work from home or be children leave primary retired. Bookmark prides school unable to read itself on the flexibility of their adequately. Later in scheme for volunteers. life, low levels of literacy Helping children with characterise pupils reading doesn’t only excluded from school and happen in schools. The people in young offenders Kathleen Low Settlement units and prison. There runs four homework clubs are a number of charities each week for children from working with schools to refugee families, mostly improve children’s reading, from Eritrea, Somalia and among them locally Coram Afghanistan. Two of the

10 clubs are for GCSE students and two relationships they make with the welcome more local volunteers. are for younger children. Volunteers children’ Colette Morris, headteacher of have one-to-one time with children Volunteers attend one club each Christchurch School, says, ‘Having and listen to them read, help with week for three hours, choosing the local people who love learning their English and play games. Nadine day that suits them. They are asked coming into school tells pupils Ballantyne, the club manager, says to attend for at least a school term. all learning is important. It is a that the children crave adult attention: The homework clubs take place great benefit to the pupils.’ ’90 percent of them don’t have an at the Settlement in Battersea High www.beanstalkcharity.org.uk adult who can read or listen to them Street. There is also a mentoring www.bookmarkreading.org or spend much focused attention scheme in which a volunteer will work www.klsettlement.org.uk on them. It makes a lot of difference. with a child in their home for an hour And it’s good for the kids to meet each week to support their school people from different backgrounds. work. The volunteers enjoy the strong All of these charities would

Neighbourly raffle tickets (more are available on closure slot and encouraged a local the day).This helped us to obtain community Bake-off. To minimise summer fun on your the correct insurance cover, and to waste, we encouraged residents doorstep provide the right number of chairs, to bring their own mugs and plates tables, teas, coffees, games etc. The with their freshly baked goodies and Vicky Shepherd offer some tips committee is central to our success, choice of drink. These supplemented for organising a successful street organising everything beforehand, donated food and drink, and were and set-up/clear-up on the day. enjoyed at the church’s tables, party That includes transporting most of adorned with bright flower pot raffle the tables etc by hand, though a prizes donated by the Battersea Little India has started celebrating neighbour helped with his van Flower Station. Leftover food, our local community, businesses and for the bulkier items. drink and sunscreen residents with an annual street party. Local businesses and were donated to the We would like to share some tips for shops were crucial churches and to organising your own Street Party to our success. We Haven Lodge, We start thinking and planning for dropped into local a sheltered the event about twelve weeks before cafes and shops retirement home. the date. We found the guidelines on asking if and how The Wandsworth Council’s website very they would like committee helpful. You need to apply at least six to be involved. organized weeks before you’d like to close your John D Wood & entertainment road. [email protected]. Co estate agents. for children uk should then be in touch to confirm kindly covered many and adults. whether you can go ahead, with a of our costs, including Emergencies checklist to help ensure that all runs the council road closure permitting, Battersea smoothly up to the big day. We chose fee and signs, invitations and fire station provides the shortest street in Little India to events insurance. Other shops and informative, educational fun for all hold the party in and contacted all restaurants provided a generous ages. We highly recommend letting the eight streets; we distributed about selection of raffle prizes and/or them know as soon as your date is 300 invitations. donations to support our drink, set. Alongside local entertainers and It’s important to cake, face-painting and sunscreen face-painters, a good sound system have a small, stands. and DJ maintain the atmosphere. committed bunch Community organisations of representative such as the Battersea Society Charity residents to form and Big Local SW11 set up All of the generous support that we a committee. games and stalls to raise received enabled us to donate just We went round awareness of their work. over £1,000 to the Fire Fighters knocking on Local churches loaned us Charity and Battersea Summer doors to gauge their chairs, tables, hot water Scheme. This was mainly achieved interest and raise urn, bunting and children’s through the £2 raffle tickets, a awareness. We are games. Connect4 and Giant donations jar on the cake table and keen that everyone Jenga were popular though many a few fun games like guessing the feels welcome, encouraging a children just enjoyed running around number of sweets in a jar..A bonus for nominal £2 per person charity in a safe, traffic-free street. a fun afternoon enjoying neighbourly donation in return for advance invites/ We chose a mid-afternoon street company on our doorsteps!

11 All the fun of the Circus Sarah Banham gives an update on progress at the Power Station

Battersea Power Station is at the heart of one of ’s largest new developments. The vast 42-acre site will be transformed into a community of homes, shops, cafés, restaurants, offices, fitness and wellness facilities and over 19 acres of public space. It will be a sixth town centre for the borough of Wandsworth. Circus West Village is already a thriving new neighbourhood, with over 1,000 residents who enjoy its stunning views across the river and its backdrop of one of London’s most iconic landmarks.

Ice skating Crowds enjoy the street scene at Circus West Village Last summer we celebrated a milestone in the Power Station’s include the home of Apple’s new 17,000 long term jobs. There is a restoration. The historic Grade II* London campus. The installation huge opportunity to inspire local listed 133-metre-long Coaling Jetty of the facades is transforming both children and young people and was opened to the public for the the Gehry and Foster + Partners encourage them to work hard and to first time in history. During August buildings. aspire to great things. a summer garden offered a line-up Battersea Power Station has a full Statistics show that five of live music, morning Pilates and time communities team engaging with interactions with an employer through yoga sessions, family activities and local people and organisations. They a student’s school life can make a food and drink pop-ups. Since then, know the area well as they are all local big impact on what a young person the Jetty has hosted several events residents themselves. The team delivers decides to do post-education. So including the Winter Village over projects such as the community choir our education programme starts with Christmas with free ice skating for our working in partnership with local Wandsworth pupils as young as 7 local schools. community groups. years old and runs throughout their We also launched a weekly market Additionally, there are lots of primary and secondary school life. in 2019, offering fresh produce, street opportunities for local residents and Free school visits are offered food, arts and crafts and live music community groups to meet with to all Wandsworth schools. The every weekend. The River Walk the Power Station team and ask workshops have a STEM (Science, Market will re-open in early March. questions about the development, Technology, Engineering & Maths) Last year several restaurants via the quarterly Community Forum focus. Students are invited to explore and entertainment venues opened, and the bi-monthly Build Battersea the past, present and future of including Birdies, an immersive crazy Neighbourhood Group meeting, both Battersea Power Station and learn golf experience and cocktail bar, of which have been ongoing for over how Battersea Power Station used to boutique cinema Archlight and the seven years. produce electricity for London. new . Since 2017 the team has taken to The team also attends career The restoration of the Power the road, setting up our stall at job fairs organised by schools and Station itself continues at great pace, fairs, festivals and libraries across colleges and offers work experience with roofing now complete on both Wandsworth to tell people about job placements for older students. So Switch Houses East and West as opportunities, the new town centre far 313 students from Wandsworth well as the Boiler House. Opening in and the benefits it will bring across and have taken part in work late 2021, Battersea Power Station the borough. experience placements on the project. will house over 250 new homes, 100 www.batterseapowerstation.co.uk or Children shops, restaurants and cafés, a email: info@batterseapowerstation. Today’s children are of course 2,000-person capacity events venue co.uk and a lift in one of the chimneys the future visitors, residents and offering 360 degree panoramic views workforce of the new town centre. Sarah Banham is head of of London’s skyline from a height There are 3,000 new jobs associated communities & sustainability for of over 100m. New office space will with the construction, and over the Battersea Power Station Development next ten years the project will create Company

12 (now BAC) Battersea Library and the Baptist church, Northcote Road

Battersea’s competitions. Significant also was a the invited competition for the Wrenaissance marked increase in building activity construction of Battersea Polytechnic locally following the establishment on a large site facing Battersea Keith Garner explores Edward of the Battersea Vestry in 1888, as Park Road. It was the first London polytechnic to be purpose built. Mountford’s buildings a more dynamic successor to the Wandsworth District Board of Works. Its design and construction ran Among the architectural splendours In 1888 Mountford won the approximately in parallel with of late-Victorian Battersea are four competition to design Battersea Battersea Town Hall and it is similarly buildings designed by the architect Central Library and it was completed eclectic in style and also built of brick Edward Mountford: the Baptist in 1890. He amended his competition and Bath stone. There are windows Church in Northcote Road, Battersea entry to include the octagonal reminiscent of Wren on the first and District Library and Battersea Town turret, presumably to increase its second floors, and Flemish and Hall on Lavender Hill, and the former prominence looking up Lavender Hill. Jacobean gables above. Sculpture Battersea Polytechnic in Battersea It is described by Pevsner & Cherry in the gables by Paul Montford Park Road. as: ‘still entirely in the domestic Pont- represent the disciplines taught there. The describes Street-Dutch tradition’, a reference to It was opened in 1894. Mountford as ‘the architect of the Queen Ann Revival of the 1870s. The single storey library adjoining Battersea’s earliest manifestations of on the west side was added in civic pride’. I knew very little about Grand Hall 1909-10, designed by Mountford’s him, and how he came to build four Mountford also won the invited principal assistant F Dare Clapham. significant buildings in the same competition for the new town hall According to the Survey of London, ‘it area of London within of a 1891. The municipal offices and shifts Mountford’s idiom into a purer few years. However from a gleaning council chamber were at the front Wrenaissance style’. F Dare Clapham of various references, listed at the facing Lavender Hill. The idea of a inherited Mountford’s practice end, I can summarise his career and separate entrance for the Grand Hall following his death in 1908. involvement in Battersea as follows. at the side apparently went down Mountford designed two Anglican well with the competition assessors. churches in Wandsworth: St Andrew, Competition The octagonal entrance lobby to the in 1889 – 90, and St Mountford was born in Shipston- Grand Hall cleverly links the front Michael, Granville Road, on-Stour in 1855 and educated in and back parts, with the Lower Hall in 1896 – 97. He and his wife built a the west country. He established a tucked underneath. house at Munstead, near Godalming practice in Worcestershire in 1881. Stylistically, ‘eclectic’ is probably in 1901 where their neighbour His early works were modest and the word. Seen from Lavender Hill it Gertrude Jekyll advised them on the a lack of employment in the 1880s has the feeling of a Germanic town design of their garden. apparently left him free to enter hall. However the attached pairs of All four of Mountford’s Battersea architectural competitions, with a columns and curved pediments on buildings remain: the Baptist church major success in winning the Sheffield the Lavender Hill front are indicative and Central Library in their original Town Hall competition in 1890. of Mountford’s more full-on baroque, uses, the town hall transformed into His first building in Battersea was to be seen for example in his Central . Battersea Northcote Road’s Baptist church of Criminal Courts () of 1900 – Polytechnic became University, 1887-9, built in red brick in a round 06. It is red brick and Bath stone. moving out in 1968, with Westminster arched style, with a corner tower. The Mountford collaborated with College moving in. It was eventually tower had a pyramidal roof, which the young sculptor Paul Montford, converted into residences as was removed in 1974 when a falling who carved the reliefs in the three the Kingsway Square housing slate hurt a passer-by. It remains a pediments and in the spandrel development in 2006 – 08. distinctive local landmark punctuating panels of the central window on the References the streetscape of Northcote Road Lavender Hill facade. These celebrate Survey of London: Battersea’s public, midway along its length. Battersea’s progressive government, commercial and cultural buildings Mountford’s subsequent burst of for example the east pediment with Pevsner & Cherry: The Buildings of activity in Battersea in the following the young borough supported by England, London 2: South years seems to have arisen through a labour and progress. It was opened Patrick Loobey: Battersea Past, combination of his recent experience by Lord Rosebery November 1893. Alastair Service: of working in the area and his skill Meanwhile in lowland Battersea, Oxford Dictionary of National in entering and winning architectural Mountford entered and won Biography

13 Masson, Scott & Co paper mill, in ‘New Wandsworth’

gets more than one mention – and in the 1970s, following the introduction of Edward Heath’s Industrial Relations Act. Older readers may remember the Pentonville Five, when five dockers’ shop stewards were jailed for refusing to obey a court order to cease picketing a container depot in Newham in 1972. The TUC called a general strike and within a week the men were released. The Battersea connection? There is a photo of three of the Five leaving court and standing alongside them is another docker, one Ted Hodges of Nine Elms. I have been unable Upriver! A little bit It was dated 1893 and the location to trace him, but it was interesting was given as ‘New Wandsworth’ to see a Battersea docker standing of Battersea but the waterfront looked distinctly shoulder to shoulder with the in the heart of Battersea-esque, prompting some Docklands-based leaders of the follow-up research. I discovered that dispute, emphasising how the Docklands the firm had been established in 1877 river served to connect its various in Summerstown but by 1888 was communities. Sue Demont explores our being described as ‘Paper makers The final item to catch my eye riverside history and Engineers of Battersea’ with was a railway and tube map of the address York Place. Apparently 1946, produced under plans for How many readers have visited the ‘New Wandsworth’ moniker was post-war reconstruction begun the Museum of Docklands? I went briefly given to the area between three years earlier. The intriguingly specifically to see the recent ‘Secret the short-lived station of that name named Ministry of War Transport Rivers’ exhibition but ended up (next to Chivalry Road) and the river, had drawn up detailed plans to exploring the fascinating permanent and the Masson works would have improve connectivity between north collection, which more than merits been situated west of York Place, west to south east London. The its own visit, with the added bonus of just inside the historic borough central section of one such route some Battersea-related items. of Wandsworth – which explains would have linked Battersea by The ‘Secret Rivers’ exhibition why the firm doesn’t feature in the tube to the then fully operational proved to be quite slight but not industrial histories of Battersea. Surrey Docks via Victoria, Blackfriars without interest. Of local note was and . This of course never the 1849 Cholera Map showing Candles materialised and by the time the the locations of those areas of I next spotted an advert for Creek Northern Line extension finally opens London most afflicted by this deadly Rice Mills of Battersea, producing it will have taken more than 75 years waterborne disease. These included rice flour, rice cones (google them!) to connect Battersea to the London the eastern bank of Battersea’s and rice meal. These mills dated Underground. Heathwall river – at this stage more of from the late 18th century and were Aside from these Battersea an open sewer – below Wandsworth situated next to Battersea Creek, vignettes there is a wealth of Road, Albert Terrace being shown where they managed to resist the worthwhile material in this museum, as the epicentre of the problem. encroachment of Price’s Candle not least the section on the Second There were also some stylised Factory (founded in the 1830s) for World War including some dramatic but informative maps showing more than half a century before newsreel footage. Also worth the expansion of industry along finally succumbing to the larger firm’s perusing is the story of the decline Battersea’s waterfront, and charting requirement for new candle moulding and demise of London’s docks from the courses of the Falcon Brook and packing rooms. It’s interesting the 1960s onwards and the still and the River Effra (there was an to speculate as to why this particular unfolding story of their redevelopment intriguing video of the local campaign advert features, but its citation and reinvention, told from the point of to uncover the latter). reminds the visitor of the commercial view of both developers and the local importance of ‘upriver’ as well as communities. Paper-making Docklands. The Museum of Docklands is a The Museum has a vast collection On a different but related note, ten-minute walk from of artefacts and reconstructions and there is a major display on the tube (Jubilee Line), it’s free, and it explains them well. One item that dockworkers themselves, charting has a decent café. It’s well worth the caught my eye was an illustration their struggles for fairer pay and journey. of the paper-making machinery mill conditions both in the early 20th Sue Demont is chair of the Battersea of Messrs Masson, Scott & Co. Ltd. century – Battersea’s John Burns Society’s Heritage Committee

14 BATTERSEA SOCIETY EVENTS Sir Walter St John: 17th to in Battersea – understandably in view 21st century legacy of the founders’ love for the area. • THURSDAY 12 MARCH SWSJ offers grants of up Vanishing Act: the underground Following on from Sally Sellars’ to £1,500 to local community rivers of Battersea and article on Walter and Johanna St organisations for educational Nine Elms. Talk by archivist John (BM Summer 2019), readers purposes. It also awards and author Jon Newman at may be interested to know that their grants to individual students Dimson Lodge 6.30 for 7pm, legacy lives on. for registration fees, travel and £5 donation on the door The Sir Walter St John’s books in some circumstances. Educational Charity (SWSJ) is based • Thursday 19 March in Battersea and, while its grants For information, see Battersea Society AGM, followed are available to individuals and www.swsjcharity.org.uk by a talk by Michelle Walker, organisations across Wandsworth and or email Susan Perry Strategic Lead for Culture, Nine Lambeth, it has a preference for those [email protected] Elms, and Danielle Rose, Arts & Events Manager, Nine Elms, on the area’s current and future arts and culture programme St Mary’s Church 6.30 for 7pm • Tuesday 24 March Visit and tour of Dr Johnson’s House near 11.30am, £10 in advance • Thursday 2 April Visit and tour of the Petrie Museum of Egyptian Archaeology at UCL in 2pm, £5 in advance • Sunday 19 April The Heathwall: Battersea’s Buried River. Walk with Jon Newman following its course 2.30pm, £5 on arrival • Sunday 26 April Spring lunch at Gazette, Plantation Wharf 12.30, Three courses, £25 in advance • Sunday 10 May Battersea’s waterfront industries. Walk with Jeanne Rathbone along the riverside. 2.30pm, £5 on arrival • Wednesday 13 May Roman House With water make rivers, with rice make and Baths. Private tour. armies: Cambodian proverb 10.30am, £15 in advance • Wednesday 20 May Did you know that the population show illustrates statistics in curious, My Battersea Photography of Wandsworth is approximately startling and sometimes witty ways. Award Exhibition. Members’ four times the size of Londinium The two piles of rice showing the private view. in AD120? Or that almost as many size of the staff and volunteers of Dyson Gallery, Royal College people in the borough cycle to work Battersea Dogs and Cats’ Home are of Art, 10am – 1pm, free as drive (but more go by bus)? These accompanied by a rather larger one and a pile of other intriguing statistics of the population of Barking (and yes, • Tuesday 26 May were unveiled in Of All the People in they could have used ). The Lavender Hill Houses; four All the World, a pop-up installation in Next to the mound representing 18th Century houses and their the former Royal Mail depot in Nine the children rescued from Nazi notable Victorian occupants. Elms in January. Germany by the Kindertransport is a Talk by Jeanne Rathbone. Using 6.7 tons of rice, each grain solitary grain: Alf Dubs. Battersea Library representing an individual person, the 6.30 – 8pm, free

15 Opening the window on Nine Elms Betsy Blatchley on how an Advent Calendar helped bring communities together

I’ve always loved opening a door St George’s Church, and Betsy each day on a traditional Advent Blatchley meets The Cat in a Hat Calendar so, inspired by similar community projects in Brighton and , I decided that we in Nine Elms could do something similar. And so the Nine Elms Arts Ministry launched the first ever Nine Elms Advent Calendar. It opened with a theatrical flourish on Sunday 1 December at the Turbine Theatre under the arches at Battersea Power Station. Around 100 people were entertained by The Cat in the Hat, and the cast of the musical High Fidelity led the mulled wine supping crowd in Christmas songs. different parts of the area sharing in community and many were designed Then a beautiful ‘Bleak Midwinter’ some Christmas cheer and getting by local artists, some of whom scene was revealed across the to know each other. The 25 windows are part of Nine Elms Arts Ministry. whole front of the theatre, with falling were illuminated each evening until 5 The Ministry’s focus is around arts, ‘snow’, a reading of the original January so that people could walk the spirituality and social justice, so we poem by Christina Rossetti and whole trail, enjoying a wide range of wanted to ensure that, whilst being a quiz with prizes. From then on themes, from classic carols like Hark a fun, thoughtful and community pubs, restaurants, cafes, schools, the Herald Angels Sing to modern building project, the calendar also marketing suites, community centres, Christmas songs such as Fairy-tale had a social justice element. So the gyms, estate agents, cinemas and of New York and Driving Home for Calendar also provided opportunities churches across Nine Elms presented Christmas. As well as providing a fun to support two great charities a new Christmas Carol themed way to walk off Christmas dinner, the who work to end food poverty – ‘Window’ each night. Each had a free Calendar aimed to encourage people Wandsworth Foodbank and Action festive opening event, concluding to explore parts of Nine Elms that against Hunger. on Christmas Eve at St George’s they hadn’t visited before. In all over 50 organisations were Church on the Patmore Estate, with involved in some way with the a beautiful rainbow-coloured window, Inspiring Advent Calendar, many as window created entirely with paper and light, The creativity involved in the hosts, some as sponsors or financial inviting the crowd, in the words of windows was inspiring. Approaches supporters and others by offering another popular carol, to Come and ranged from windows designed by practical support. Garton Jones Behold Him. schools to a 3D one in a black cab Real Estate was our main sponsor, Well over 2,000 people attended and others created by nationally while other key supporters included the opening events and it was really acclaimed artists. Some projects Battersea Power Station, New Covent encouraging to see residents from all brought together different parts of the Garden Market, St Modwen, Galliard Homes, Nine Elms on the South Bank, Mounds of rice Wandsworth Council and Battersea illustrate vital Fields Parish. statistics with grain There already seems a strong represents a human desire for the Nine Elms Advent being. The pop-up exhibition Of All the Calendar to become an annual People in All the event, so watch out for more news World in Nine Elms and get in touch to find out about was the work of the getting involved. Watch a short film theatre group Stan’s about the Advent Calendar made by Café. See page 15 Battersea-based Chocolate Films (www.nineelmsartsministry.org). Follow us on Instagram and Facebook @nineelmsartsministry. Rev Betsy Blatchley is Pioneer Minister for the Arts in Nine Elms. The project is funded by Diocese.

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