Traveller getaways

top ten Traveller getaways

Editorial Business Office EDITOR Amit Dixit CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Indranil Roy CONSULTING EDITOR Lasya Nadimpally CMS EXECUTIVE Benny Joshua Advertisements VICE PRESIDENT Sameer Saxena MANAGER Rakhi Puri First Edition 2019 Research Copyright © Outlook Publishing () Private Limited, New Delhi. ResearchERS Ranee Sahaney, Sharon All Rights Reserved George, Lima Parte Circulation NATIONAL HEAD Anindya Banerjee

Design ART DIRECTOR Deepak Suri Production ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR Kapil Taragi GENERAL MANAGER Shashank Dixit Disclaimer SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER Rajesh KG MANAGER Sudha Sharma No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or DEPUTY MANAGER Ganesh Sah transmitted in any form or means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, ASSISTANT MANAGER Gaurav Shrivas recording or otherwise, without prior written permission of Outlook Publishing Photography (India) Private Limited. Brief text quotations with use of photographs are Senior PHOTO RESEARCHER exempted for book review purposes only Raman Pruthi As every effort is made to provide accurate and up-to-date information in this publication as far as possible, we would appreciate if readers would call our attention to any errors that may occur. Some details, however, such as telephone and fax numbers or email ids, room tariffs and addresses and other travel related information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of information provided in this book. However, we would be happy to receive suggestions Printed and published by and corrections for inclusion in the next edition. Please write to: The Editor, INDRANIL ROY on behalf of Outlook Publishing (India) Private Limited from AB-10, Outlook Traveller Getaways, AB-10, Safdarjung Enclave, New Delhi-110029 Safdarjung Enclave, New Delhi-110029 outlooktraveller.com Printed at GH Prints Pvt. Ltd. A-256, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase-1, For updates, news and new destinations, log on to our website New Delhi-110020 www.outlooktraveller.com

2 3 10

contents Introduction 06 the capital and its twin 72 , , 104 130 Culture And Tradition 16 72 district Museum and Library MayUdia Pass 135 Adventure In Arunachal 28 Crafts Centre Advice For Tourists 34 Jawaharlal Nehru State Museum of myths and mammals 136 Map of Arunachal Buddha Vihar where the hills begin 108 Parasuram Kund 136 pradesh 40 gekar Sinyi 108 139 82 114 Wakro 140 Of High mountains and mela General Ground Camping kamlang Tiger Reserve monasteries 42 polo Park Namsai 118 42 golden Pagoda adventure in the woods 142 abode of the apatanis 84 Other Temples Miao 142 gyangong Ani Gompa Valley other Places of Interest 146 tawang War Memorial hapoli Namdapha National urgelling Gompa apatani Bastis MONASTERIES, RITUALS park 148 54 ziro Viewpoint AND MORE 122 deban dirang Dzong tarin Fish Farm 122 treks New Gompa ziro Festival of Music Basar 125 National Research Centre kardo Hill Temple Hotel Listings 156–69 on Yak A bridge across forever 126 Tourist Offices 170 62 the big cat in misty woods 96 126 Permits 171-172 upper Gompa 96 129 Transport Directory 173–75 middle Gompa Birdwatching Photo Credits 176 lower Gompa Nature Interpretation Centre spectacular vistas, Bomdila Bazaar area Village Visits and Festivals shamanic rituals 130

4 5 t e n t e n

t o p t o p

p r a d e s h p r a d e s h

a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l

sanjiv valsan The Road Less Travelled Lake at bounded by snow-covered mountains introduction across the state, each with are adept at bamboo introduction he roads to, and in, snow, rain and heavy vehic- their own language, culture craft, fishing and organic Arunachal Pradesh are ular movement, but once and practices. Their life and agriculture. Tlong and winding, and you manage to galumph culture revolves around their A visit to this far-flung brimming with a promise of past these little challenges, respective topographies. corner of India will show adventure. Irrespective of you will be gifted with The Monpas and you what life is like in its which road you decide to sights that your eyes simply Sherdukpens reside in the simplest form. Till today, take in the largest state in cannot fathom. western part of Arunachal Arunachal Pradesh contin- India’s Northeast, in all While you’re immersed in Pradesh; the Apatanis and ues to be one of the great- probability, it will be ‘the the quiet majesty of the Nyishis in the central areas; est and last remaining one less travelled by’. Roads Himalayas, you will learn while the Idu Mishmis live repositories of unique can be bumpy at times, and that these mountains are on the eastern side. All are cultures and unexplored definitely thrilling thanks to home to tribes scattered expert weavers and most ecological wealth.

6 7 shutterstock Geography est state in India with t e n t e n

Arunachal Pradesh shares its respect to size, it has one of t o p t o p

borders with Bhutan in the the lowest population den- west, the Tibetan sities in India. Autonomous Region and For administrative pur- p r a d e s h p r a d e s h China to the north, poses, Arunachal Pradesh is

Myanmar and to divided into 25 districts the east and in the depending on cultural dif- south. The state extends ferences, connectivity and a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l over an area of 83,740 sq geography. Several rivers, km and is the largest among such as the Kameng, Siang, the Northeastern states. Subansiri, Lohit and Tirap, Although it is the 15th larg- whose sources are in the Greater Himalayas, meander A yak in western Arunachal through the high mountains and lower valleys of Nuranang Waterfalls makes for a spectacular view Arunachal Pradesh to even- tually join the mighty passes such as Sela and Assam, where it joins the introduction Brahmaputra. Bumla are located here. Brahmaputra. introduction The western and north- There are also various lakes The central zone of the ern boundary areas of the in the area that are consid- state hosts the busy capital state are characterised by ered sacred in Tibetan city of Itanagar. It marks the lofty, snow-capped moun- . Additionally, the beginning of the Eastern tains and sparse vegetation. region is a free grazing Himalayas and the state The challenging terrain ground of the Himalayan border. The region hosts occasionally disrupts con- yak, which can be spotted spectacular river valleys, nectivity of roads and bridg- almost everywhere. The which are home to several es during monsoon and Kameng River originates in indigenous tribes such as winter. Landslides, snow and the and the Apatanis, Adis, Nyishis, heavy rains are the norm flows all the way down to Tagins and many others. It is here. Several high-mountain in also home to the mithun, a shutterstock

8 9 sanjoy ghosh large, semi-domesticated the spectacular Mishmi t e n t e n

bovine. Hills, while both hills and t o p t o p

Dense rainforests cover plains comprise the south- much of the eastern part of eastern belt. the state, which is one of p r a d e s h p r a d e s h the most accessible regions Climate

from outside the state The plains and lower reach- owing to an improved road es of Arunachal Pradesh network. Several rivers flow experience humid, subtropi- a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l through the area to join the cal climate through most of Brahmaputra, one of which the year. The higher moun- is Noa-Dihing that enters tains are snowbound and Arunachal Pradesh from witness alpine climatic con- Myanmar. The northeastern ditions with the barometer side of the state is home to recording sub-zero tempera- tures during winter, which Mountainside covered in mist, Tawang A long footbridge lasts from November to March. Abundant rainfall tribes, which were passed the British and Burmese introduction occurs in the state from down through the genera- empires fighting to gain introduction March to October. The tions, provide clues to control over India’s lower Himalayas receive many questions about their Northeast region. After heavy rainfall and tend to origins. Burma’s defeat, Assam get cold in the winter The earliest sources of became a part of British months. written history on the region India in 1826. Even with this can be found in Sutiya and development many tribes of History Ahom accounts, since both continued The early history of this kingdoms held parts of to govern themselves, with- region is shrouded in mys- the state from the 12th to out interference from the tery since no written records 19th centuries. British till Independence. from that time exist. The In 1824, the First Anglo- Moreover, the Inner Line rich oral traditions of the Burmese War broke out with Regulation Act of 1873 cut shutterstock

10 11 off the tribes from any out- NEFA was declared t e n side influence. a union territory of India in t o p

In 1914, the British sepa- 1972 and was later named rated areas with a high den- Arunachal Pradesh. It was sity of tribal population from made a state with Itanagar p r a d e s h the rest of the Assam as its capital in 1987.

Province. These areas formed the North-East Sino-Indian War (1962) Frontier Tract (NEFT), which Conflict over who controlled

a r u n a c h a l became a part of the state the Aksai Chin and NEFA of Assam in 1947. In 1954, (present-day Arunachal it was renamed North-East Pradesh) regions were the Frontier Agency (NEFA). main triggers for the war between India and China in Tawang War Memorial 1962. However, several other factors also escalated tensions between the two countries that eventually led introduction to all-out war. One such reason was Namdapha India granting asylum to the Dalai Lama during the National Tibetan Uprising in 1959—a step that was not looked upon favourably by the Park Chinese government. arunachal pradesh Another reason was the road Four big cats in one park! Who would have thought? Chase the China constructed between tiger, leopard, snow leopard and all on your 1956–57 that linked treks through the dense woods of Namdapha. with Xinjiang, a part of Department of Tourism China. The road ran through Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India sanjoy ghosh Phone: +91-360-2214745 | E-mail: [email protected] 12 follow us on Arunachal Tourism @ArunachalTsm sanjoy ghosh t e n t o p p r a d e s h a r u n a c h a l

Joginder Singh Memorial, Bumla

the Aksai Chin region as West Kameng districts in well. However, the Indian Arunachal Pradesh are dot- government considered ted with several war memo- Aksai Chin to be a part of rials and the military’s pres- introduction Kashmir. Thus, the road ence is very evident. became a bone of conten- tion that led to frequent bor- Travel Essentials der altercations between the Due to Arunachal’s proximi- two countries. ty with international bor- AromaS The Chinese army ders, Indian citizens will attacked India through the require inner-line permits to of arunachal pradesh western part of Arunachal visit various parts of the From the lip-smacking Momos and Thukpa in the west to the Pika Pila pickle Pradesh and took control state. Foreign citizens need and Apong in the central, eat your way through Arunchal Pradesh and reach a true gourmand’s paradise. over the entire region. After a Protected Areas Permit a ceasefire the region was (PAP) to travel in Arunachal Department of Tourism Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India handed back to India. Pradesh. n Phone: +91-360-2214745 | E-mail: [email protected] Today, the Tawang and by Lasya Nadimpally follow us on Arunachal Tourism @ArunachalTsm

14 of these elements are fast of the tribal festivals such as t e n t e n

Culture And Tradition disappearing. Today, some Myoko and Nyokum present t o p t o p

of the tribes in Arunachal, if a great opportunity to wit- not all, are slowly catching ness the cultural traditions up with modern times. of the tribes even today. p r a d e s h p r a d e s h Earlier, these tribes had The communities of

their own judicial systems in Arunachal maintain a har- place. Today, many tribes monious relationship with still have a village council. nature even in the face of a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l These councils solve issues changing times. pertaining to kinship, group The Monpas who inhabit activities, and set moral the West Kameng and standards and necessary Tawang districts, are essen- regulations for the people; the role of these councils A traditional bamboo house t r a d i t i o n t r a d i t i o n

today are less official and a n d more socio-cultural. There a n d

are about 26 scheduled

Madhu Kapparath tribes in Arunachal Pradesh, People of Sarthi village each with its own sub- c u l t u r e c u l t u r e groups. Further, each com- munity has its own unique Tribes Natural calamities in the culture, customs, practices, The origins of the tribes that area might have forced language and folklore. are currently living in tribes to take up different Although a large section of Arunachal Pradesh remain habitats and adapt to the tribes are now warming up shrouded in mystery. nature of their surroundings. to modernisation—going to Whatever little is known has In order to maintain a dis- other towns and states to been passed down from tinct identity, some tribes study or work, not wearing generation to generation via used tattoos, headgears, tattoos or traditional head- oral traditions. nose plugs, etc. But many gear on a daily basis—some Madhu Kapparath

16 17 dinodia photo library t e n t e n

t o p t o p

p r a d e s h p r a d e s h

a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l t r a d i t i o n t r a d i t i o n

Women from the Monpa tribe at an agricultural field, Jang village a n d a n d

tially Buddhists who follow Monpas and Sherdukpens the Mahayana . The These people follow the c u l t u r e c u l t u r e Nyishis and Apatanis in the Mahayana sect of East Kameng, Papum Pare Buddhism, which they and Lower Subansiri districts adopted in the 17th century are traditionally animists. CE from Merak Lama. The Tai Khamptis and Hence, the Tawang Singphos, found in eastern Monastery plays a central Arunachal, follow Theravada role in the everyday life of Buddhism. In many parts of the people of this tribe. the state, some communi- Some of the Monpas are ties have started practising yak herders. In the times Christianity. gone by, they used to large-

18 19 dinodia photo library ly depend on yaks, cows, Nyishis t e n t e n

goats and horses for suste- The word ‘Nyishi’ literally t o p t o p

nance and had no perma- translates to ‘human being’. nent settlements. While They are the most populous many have adopted more tribe of Arunachal and p r a d e s h p r a d e s h modern lifestyles, some yak inhabit some of the eastern

herders still maintain some and central districts of the of their original traditions. state. They are mainly The Sherdukpens reside involved in shifting cultiva- a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l in western Arunachal tion. Pradesh and practice Mahayana Buddhism. Apatanis UNESCO has proposed that A Sherdukpen practices shooting the Apatani Cultural Landscape in the Ziro Valley t r a d i t i o n t r a d i t i o n

be listed as a World a n d Heritage Site for its a n d

‘extremely high productivity’ and ‘unique’ way of preserv- ing ecology. The tribe prac- An Adi-Galo tribal woman dressed in traditional attire c u l t u r e c u l t u r e tices wetland paddy cultiva- tion, which produces high homestays, offering visitors a form, which reflects their yields even without the use glimpse of their traditional unique culture. of farm animals and agricul- lifestlye. tural machines. Apatanis are Adis a vibrant tribe that celebrate Khamptis The Adis are one of the several festivals. They make The Khamptis are mainly most prominent tribes in the intricately woven shawls and found in Namsai and follow state. They follow animism sarongs. They also make Theravada Buddhism. The and believe in various spirits jewellery. Many Apatani fam- Khampti dance, Ka Poong of the forest and shamanic ilies run their houses as Tai, is a highly expressive art rituals. alamy images / india picture

20 21 lasya nadimpally beliefs—they continued to t e n t e n

practise certain aspects of t o p t o p

Bon. Buddhism also incor- porated a few local deities into its pantheon and made p r a d e s h p r a d e s h them its protectors.

In the 7th century, Tawang was known as Yul Mendrelgang. Certain his- a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l torical texts from that time, such as Kandroe Bumo Drowa Sangmoi Namthar, mentioned the necessity of introducing Buddhism to the region in order to coun- t r a d i t i o n t r a d i t i o n

Early morning prayer gathering at the Tawang Monastery as Bonpos, prayed to gods teract the increasingly ego- a n d and spirits such as Teng a n d

Buddhism about the advent of Lha, an upper god who A Buddhist prayer wheel Buddhism in the state. resides in the sky, Bar Tsan, The Gaden Namgyal Lhatse, a middle god who rules the c u l t u r e c u l t u r e or the Tawang Monastery as Advent of Buddhism earth, and Lu, a being with it is commonly known, is the Much before Guru a snake-like body, which largest monastery in India. It Padmasambhava brought lives underwater. is the fountainhead of spiri- Buddhism to this region, Appeasing the gods in tuality as well as a sociocul- somewhere in the 8th cen- order to avert natural disas- tural institution, which heav- tury CE, the people here ters plays a big role in the ily influences the lives of practised a form of shaman- religion. When Buddh- people here. ism generally referred to as ism was introduced in the To understand why this Bon, which is the indige- region, people began con- monastery holds such rever- nous religion of Tibet. The verting to it but did not ence, it is essential to learn followers of Bon, referred to completely discard their old shutterstock

22 23 Photographs: shutterstock tistical attitudes of people. Jungne (lotus-born guru) or t e n t e n

Sometime between 742– Lopon Rinpoche (the pre- t o p t o p

797 CE, Tibetan king cious guru). During this peri- Trisong Detsen invited Guru od, Padma-sambhava is said Padmasambhava from the to have visited a den in the p r a d e s h p r a d e s h famous Nalanda University Monyul region, located to

in present-day Bihar to per- the east of Tawang, where suade the Bonpas to adopt he sat and meditated for Buddhism. Padmasambhava about nine days. Following a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l managed to convert most of his success, many lamas vis- the people of this region ited the same area to into Buddhism. Eventually, spread Buddhism. the guru’s popularity grew Consequently, the Gelugpa immensely and he came to school of Buddhism was be known as Lopon Pema established in Tibet in the t r a d i t i o n t r a d i t i o n

15th century CE. Many Monks at a monastery a n d belonging to the a n d

Gelugpa (Yellow hat) sect of Mahayana Buddhism were Different shades of Buddhism in Arunachal Pradesh constructed in the area c u l t u r e c u l t u r e around Tawang. Tawang Some sources suggest Branch Gompas Monastery was founded by that Tawang (meaning horse Tawang district itself has Merak Lama in the 17th chosen) was named follow- about 97 gompas, some of century CE, in accordance ing the incident during which belong to individual with the wishes of the fifth which Merak Lama’s horse villages in the area. The Dalai Lama. The main wandered off when he Tawang Monastery has over prayer hall of the monastery was meditating in a cave 10 branch monasteries in was constructed in 1680 CE near the monastery’s site. the area, where it sends and the buildings around it The area over which the monks as caretakers. These came up in the years that horse roamed came to be caretakers also provide serv- followed. known as Tawang. ices in the villages that they Sanjoy Ghosh

24 25 are sent to and, in return, disciple of the third t e n the villagers provide them Karmapa Rangjung Dorje. t o p

with food grains as per con- Situated above Singsur Ani In the Lap vention. In a practice known Gompa, near Tawang, the as tonggo, each monk has Brakar Gompa also comes of Nature p r a d e s h to periodically take up the under Tawang Monastery.

responsibility of feeding the Thongmon Gompa, towards arunachal pradesh residents of the monastery the east of Tawang, Tsangbu in order to ensure that they Gompa, Bagajang Gompa

a r u n a c h a l give back to the institution. and the Urgelling Gompa The Kyimnas Gompa are some of the other located near Jang village in branch gompas. the Tawang district was sup- All these gompas and the posedly established by a monks play crucial roles in keeping the sociocultural t r a d i t i o n Theravada Buddhist monks supremacy of the Tawang

a n d Monastery intact.

Eastern Arunachal Pradesh Some tribes in eastern c u l t u r e Arunachal Pradesh practise Theravada Buddhism, like the Tai Khampti and Singpho. This type of Buddhism tends to be more orthodox in its customs and rituals. The recently con- structed Golden Pagoda in Namsai is one of their most Department of Tourism famous monasteries. n Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India by Lasya Nadimpally Phone: +91-360-2214745 | E-mail: [email protected] madhu kapparath follow us on Arunachal Tourism @ArunachalTsm 26 Photographs by harish kapadia t e n t e n

t o p t o p

p r a d e s h p r a d e s h

a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l

in in

The stony banks of the Subansiri River a d v e n t u r e Adventure In Arunachal a d v e n t u r e for grabs in this state. For flung eastern end of the ature is at its best in usually visits Arunachal trekking and mountaineer- state. However, all these Arunachal Pradesh. Pradesh—those who are ing, you can head to the activities can be experi- NLow and high moun- true adventure aficionados western part of the state enced throughout as well. tains, gushing rivers, nation- at heart. You can find all where these activities are al parks and unexplored ter- sorts of adventure sports in prominent. For rafting, you Trekking rains make the state an this offbeat destination: can visit the river valleys in The western valleys of ideal destination for adven- everything from hiking, the central part and birding, Arunachal Pradesh lie on ture tourism. A completely camping and rafting to wildlife adventures can be the international borders different brand of travellers angling and biking, are up best experienced in the far- with Bhutan (west) and

28 29 China (north). This region sparse population and is t e n t e n

was rather remote and mostly Buddhist. There are t o p t o p

mostly cut-off from the rest several trekking routes to of the country till the mid- take in this part of the state. 20th century. The uncon- In central Arunachal, p r a d e s h p r a d e s h quered peaks and unchart- Takpa Siri (5,735m), a holy

ed territory was a big draw mountain, is the centrepiece for early explorers and of the Subansiri Valley. The mountaineers such as Bill name Takpa Siri is derived a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l Tilman, FM Bailey, HT from the Tibetan words Morshead, Pundit Nain takpa (birch), shi (death) and Singh and Frank Kingdon- ri (mountain), that is, a Ward. The area has a mountain where birch trees Winding roads of the Eastern Himalayas die. It now falls entirely in Trekking in Arunachal Tibet. Due to geopolitical Buddhism—the other two either sides of the river a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l

conflicts, Tibetans now use being that of Kailash (wherever you opt to raft in in

the shorter route for kora Mansarovar and Kundu —Siang and Kameng are called ‘Kingkor’. The longer Potrang (near the Dibang popular options) you will trail, ‘Ringkor’, passes Valley, further east). see dense forests, rural hab- through valleys, which are itation and crystal clear a d v e n t u r e now a part of India and is Rafting waters. If you have rafted in a d v e n t u r e prohibited to pilgrims from Rafting in Arunachal the Ganga anywhere near both sides. Indians are per- Pradesh is experiencing Rishikesh, you will realise mitted to trek on those sec- nature in its rawest form. that rafting in the tions of the route that fall in While rafting on the Ganga requires Indian territory—along the in Uttarakhand has become more skill and experience. Subansiri in the east and quite a commercial activity, The river here is untamea- along the Tsari in the north. the Brahmaputra is for those ble, and it feels as if your The Takpa Siri pilgrimage is who prefer clean, unaltered raft is a stallion ready to one of the three major pil- habitats, with a high dose of knock you right off the grimages of Tibetan adrenaline to boost. On saddle.

30 31 ahtushi deshpande t e n t e n

t o p t o p

p r a d e s h p r a d e s h

a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l Rafting through pulsating grade IV rapids

Birding, Angling & Others high-altitude spots in Arunachal Pradesh is the Arunachal which are con- holy grail of birders in nected by road such as a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l

India. A massive altitudinal Mechuka, Mayudia Pass in in

range from 200 to 4,500m and Sela Pass, where you throws open a broad range can spot snow birds that of habitats from tropical cannot be found anywhere rainforests at lower eleva- else in the Northeast with- a d v e n t u r e tions to subtropical and out extreme climbs. For a d v e n t u r e temperate forests at mid- those interested in angling, elevations, and rhododen- the Kameng River near dron shrubbery to alpine is a great desti- pastures close to the top. nation, as are several small Provided you can manage villages located by the trib- the climbing required. Due utaries of the mighty to the sheer variety on Brahmaputra. n offer, it makes sense to go by harish kapadia, prepared to Arunachal. Ayesha Khan Raval & Thankfully, there are also siddhartha sharma

32 33 lasya nadimpally permits before you begin mit for the circuits you wish t e n t e n

your trip to the state. to visit, for a maximum peri- t o p t o p

Travelling here is relatively od of 15 days. The Aruna- safe—locals are friendly and chal Tourism counter at the helpful and the Indian Army Airport can also p r a d e s h p r a d e s h has a heavy presence help you obtain a permit.

almost everywhere. Keep your passport or any other government-issued Inner Line Permits identity card (and its photo- a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l The most important thing to copies) and passport size remember while travelling photographs handy when here is to secure inner line applying for permits. permits (ILP). Indian citizens need permits to visit A quaint bridge Arunachal, while foreign t o u r i s t s t o u r i s t s

nationals need a protected f o r Busy Itanagar is the capital of Arunachal Pradesh areas permit (PAP). f o r

Every circuit in Arunachal Pradesh requires a specific a d v i c e Advice For Tourists permit. For example, the a d v i c e eing one of the east- ed in market areas in main permit for Tawang circuit ernmost, not to men- towns; and food is available will only give you access to Btion hard to traverse in small restaurants attached western parts of the state. states in India, Arunachal to the houses of local peo- Trips to Itanagar and Ziro Pradesh doesn’t receive too ple (in a few villages) on will need separate permits. many tourists. The popula- roads that connect one You can log on to tion density of the state is town to another. Since W arunachalilp.com to apply 17 people per sq km, so Arunachal Pradesh shares its for inner line permits. The you won’t really see many borders with China, Bhutan Arunachal Bhavan on people during your travels. and Myanmar, it is manda- Kautilya Marg in New Delhi Most shops are concentrat- tory to acquire inner line can issue a combined per- madhu kapparath

34 35 lasya nadimpally You can also contact t e n t e n

Help Tourism (Kolkata Cell: t o p t o p

09831031980) for assistance with permits and travel in the state. p r a d e s h p r a d e s h

Getting Around Public transport is scarce in Arunachal Pradesh. You can a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l hire a car either from Guwahati or to get around in the state. For some parts, nothing short of an SUV will do to conquer the terrain here. So expect t o u r i s t s t o u r i s t s

to shell out around `5,000– f o r 7,000 per day for an Innova The state’s terrain is best explored in an SUV; (and left) Lohit viewpoint f o r

or a Scorpio, if you want to opt for a private cab. Pradesh. So the days el hazardous once a d v i c e Alternatively, most towns here start very early and the sun sets. Remember a d v i c e have tour agents who oper- end early too. It is advisable to include travel days in ate cabs from one destina- to start your travels (all of your entire itinerary of tion to another. which have to be done dur- the state. Arunachal is quite large ing the day) as early as Also remember to not so it’s best to divide your 6.00am and reach your des- calculate the travel time trip into two parts, eastern tination by 5.00pm, maxi- based on the number of kil- and western Arunachal. mum. After this time, the ometres between one town roads are covered by mist to another. A distance of Time Management and it gets dark; lack of about 200km can take up to The sun rises as early as streetlights and mountain- 10 hours here because of 4.50am in Arunachal ous terrain makes road trav- the terrain. madhu kapparath

36 37 madhu kapparath order). Apart from this, t e n some places serve Maggi, t o p

chowmein and momos. Some restaurants serve thenthuk, thukpa and regu- p r a d e s h lar Indian food.

Travel Tips Monsoons can get really

a r u n a c h a l wet, but this is when some orchids and rhododendrons are in season. Winters can get quite cold; snow can block high mountain roads from December to February. t o u r i s t s View from a Rest House October to March is the dri-

f o r est time of the year, and

Food and Stay ideal for travel. Make sure to It’s advisable to be open to carry medicines and toilet- a d v i c e whatever is available and ries. Carry sturdy shoes, make the best of it. umbrellas and woollens. Restaurants and dhabas are Hindi works as the lingua scarce along the state high- franca in most places, and ways here. Modest eateries many people speak English. can, however, be found in The locals are unfailingly Trekking several villages along the helpful as long as you route. In bigger settlements respect their culture. in arunachal pradaesh like Itanagar there are prop- Travelling in Arunachal is an Spectacular vistas and the beautiful Himalayas; the untouched er restaurants. Lunch usually experience unlike any other; Arunachal Pradesh is a paradise for trekking enthusiasts consists of rice with vegeta- a little planning will ensure Department of Tourism bles or meat on the side (to you have an enjoyable trip. n Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India Phone: +91-360-2214745 | E-mail: [email protected] follow us on Arunachal Tourism @ArunachalTsm 38

is the aura of calmness and Directorate of Tourism, t e n t e n

Government of Arunachal Pradesh, Nirvanchal Bhawan Marg, serenity that the locals D. Ering Colony, Itanagar-791111, Arunachal Pradesh t o p t o p Of High mountains Website: www.arunachaltourism.com

exude? Or maybe it’s the panoramic views of the Fast facts and monasteries Greater Himalayas that you p r a d e s h p r a d e s h get to see everywhere you September to

Tawang | Dirang | Bomdila When to go look? Is it the stories of war March shutterstock that every village has to Tourist Office tell? Or is it the unbelieva- l Department of Tourism, a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l ble vistas that you encoun- Arunachal Pradesh ter on your way to the Doni Colony town? Once you sit back Itanagar and think about it, you’ll Tel: 0360-2247470 (Dep. Dir.) realise that it is not any one Cell: 08794864348 b o m d i l a b o m d i l a - factor that makes Tawang W arunachaltourism.com - what it is; in fact, all these STD code 03794 elements blend seamlessly d i r a n g d i r a n g - together to mould the town Permits - into a Shangri-La of peace l Deputy Resident and spirituality. Commissioner t a w a n g The first thing you will Government of Arunachal t a w a n g Sela Pass, the entry point to Tawang district automatically look for as Pradesh you enter Tawang is the GS Road Rukminigaon mesmerising charm. Even if Gaden Namgyal Lhatse , Guwahati Tawang you try to pinpoint the rea- Monastery, which sits at the Tel: 0361-229506 An ethereal mountain town son for its almost other- highest point in town. The l Resident Commissioner that immediately transports worldly vibe, you will fall imposing yellow-roofed Government of Arunachal you to a plane of pure bliss, short of answers. Is it the structure, in a way, holds the Pradesh Tawang is one of those quiet majesty of the Tawang spirit of Tawang, not just Chanakyapuri, New Delhi places that never quite Monastery that towers over due to its stateliness but Tel: 011-23013915, 23013844 reveals the secret behind its the entire town? Perhaps it also because of the reli-

42 43 t e n t e n

t o p t o p

p r a d e s h p r a d e s h

a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l b o m d i l a b o m d i l a - - d i r a n g d i r a n g - - t a w a n g t a w a n g

44 45 shutterstock

Directorate of Tourism, gious and cultural signifi- t e n t e n

Government of Arunachal Pradesh, Nirvanchal Bhawan Marg, D. Ering Colony, Itanagar-791111, cance it holds in the minds Arunachal Pradesh t o p t o p Website: www.arunachaltourism.com

of the people that live in Getting There the state. The monastery is the largest of its kind in p r a d e s h p r a d e s h Nearest airport: India and the second largest

Air (360km/10hrs), but Guwahati in the world after Potala (532km/15hrs) is better Palace in , Tibet. It fol- connected, with several daily lows the Gelugpa sect of ` a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l flights. Taxis cost 6,000–7,000 Mahayana Buddhism. per day depending on the Tawang is also one of the season. If you keep the taxi for main fronts on which the seven days for a return tour Sino-Indian War of 1962 was from Tawang you can fought. There is a War b o m d i l a b o m d i l a - negotiate that down to `4,000 Memorial dedicated to the - a day. If you spend the night soldiers who lost their lives. in Bomdila it’s about 185km/ Tourists, defence personnel, d i r a n g d i r a n g - 7hrs to Tawang and taxis locals and monks all co-exist A monpa woman at the Tawang monastery - charge `7,000 approx in perfect harmony, making Tip Guwahati taxis may Tawang a mish-mash of Buddhism in the area. played instrumental roles in t a w a n g sometimes not be allowed to of sorts. Buddhism possibly spread spreading the religion. t a w a n g travel up to Tawang; you then to Yul Mandrelang (Tawang’s Meanwhile, the Gelugpa have to hire at the Tezpur taxi HISTORY former name), a part of school of Mahayana stand Mon, in the seventh century Buddhism was established Rail Nearest railhead: The word ‘Tawang’ literally CE, when the region used in Tibet in the 15th century Guwahati. For onward journey, translates to ‘chosen by to be ruled by king Kala CE. In the 17th century CE, see Road below horse’. Historically, a part of Wangpo. Several Buddhist Merak Lama Lorde Gyasto Road From Guwahati it is a various Tibetan kingdoms, preachers and gurus (includ- travelled to Yul Mandrelang 532-km-long drive. the people of Mon used to ing Padmasambhava, who is and laid the foundation to See Route Planner on p44. follow Bon, a shamanistic called Lopon Rinpoche the Gaden Namgyal Lhatse practice, before the advent here) visited the region and gompa (commonly called

46 47 shutterstock Tawang Monastery). In 1681 Nyukmadung were taken by t e n t e n

CE, the main prayer hall of the Chinese troops who t o p t o p

the monastery was con- marched all the way to structed and the fifth Dalai Bhalukpong before the Lama consecrated it the ceasefire was called. p r a d e s h p r a d e s h same year.

In more recent history, ORientation Tawang served as a battle- ground for the Sino-Indian You enter the town from the a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l War of 1962. The war lasted Old Market side, from for 31 days during which where the road leads you to Bumla, Tawang and the Tawang monastery, visi- ble from most places in War Memorial town, located approximately b o m d i l a b o m d i l a - 2km ahead on the same - road. Beyond the Old Market is the route to the d i r a n g d i r a n g - Buddha Park and the The august, yellow-roofed Tawang monastery complex - New Market. Most hotels and restau- the Line of Actual Control. in perfect geometric sym- t a w a n g rants are concentrated near Tour operators generally metry along the incline of t a w a n g these market areas. You take care of the necessary the mountain. No wonder cannot travel in outstation paperwork for you. then that it is aptly named vehicles to Bumla Pass, Gaden Namgyal Lhatse, Sangetsar Lake, etc. THINGS TO SEE AND DO which translates to ‘peak of However, several tour oper- the heavenly abode of joy- ators in the Old Market Tawang Monastery fulness’. The monastery organise day trips to these The monastic complex stands on an almost impreg- places. Special permissions makes for a splendid sight nable ridge and served as a are needed to visit these with its yellow-roofed edific- military post as well. In its sights since they lie close to es that have been laid out current form, the Tawang sanjoy ghosh

48 49 sanjiv valsan Monastery houses a muse- way ridge located behind t e n t e n

um, a dance ground where the Tawang Monastery, 5km t o p t o p

different types of Cham from the township. It is dances are performed, the interesting to note that this Centre for Buddhist Cultural monastery is actually a nun- p r a d e s h p r a d e s h Studies, an extensive library nery, which houses over 50

and a residential area meant nuns. The gompa had been for monks. constructed by Merak Lama who then dedicated it to his a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l Gyangong Ani Gompa sister Mera Lama. Popularly referred to as Ani Gompa, the Gyangong Ani Tawang War Memorial Gompa looks like a solitary Built by the 180 Mountain citadel perched upon a fara- Brigade, the memorial is b o m d i l a b o m d i l a - dedicated to the 2,240 - Urgelling Gompa soldiers who lost their lives in the Sino-Indian War. The The high-altitude Sela Lake is considered holy in d i r a n g d i r a n g - sanctum of the memorial - houses a statue of war hero a simple one with small Sela Pass is the serene and and Param Vir Chakra win- white buildings. sacred Sela Lake. t a w a n g ner (posthumous) Subedar t a w a n g Joginder Singh, who valiant- AROUND TAWANG Jaswant Garh (40km) ly fought the Chinese troops Between the Sela Pass and at the Bumla Pass. Sela Pass (67km) Tawang is Jaswant Garh, a At 13,700ft, Sela Pass is the war memorial dedicated to Urgelling Gompa highest motorable road in Mahavir Chakra (posthu- A small monastery situated Arunachal Pradesh, connect- mous) Jaswant Singh Rawat, 4km from the centre of the ing the West Kameng and who valiantly fought the town, the Urgelling Gompa Tawang districts. You will Chinese troops from this is the birthplace of the 6th have to cross the pass to post during the Sino-Indian Dalai Lama. The complex is reach Tawang. Next to the War of 1962. Photographs by lasya nadimpally

50 51 shutterstock (25km) (28km) t e n t e n Nuranang Waterfalls Sangetsar Lake

At a distance of 2km from Formed as a result of an t o p t o p

the town of Jang, the earthquake that hit the Nuranang Waterfalls, also region in 1950, the known as Jang Falls, look Sangetsar Lake is simply p r a d e s h p r a d e s h dramatic to say the least. gorgeous to look at. The

Legend has it that the falls Hindi film Koyla (1995) was were named after a local shot at this lake, following Monpa girl, Nura, who which the lake came to be a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l helped Jaswant Singh dur- known as Madhuri Lake ing the war. She was later (after the lead actor captured by the Chinese. Madhuri Dixit).

Nuranang Waterfall Bumla Pass (37km) b o m d i l a b o m d i l a - At 15,200ft above sea level, - the pass is located at the border of India and China The Taktsang Monastery is a prominent pilgrim site d i r a n g d i r a n g - and is perennially covered - in snow. The Chinese Dolma Lhakhang (45km) the region, Gorsam entered Tawang through A huge statue of Zetsun Chorten. Built in the 12th t a w a n g this pass during the Sino- Dolma, the goddess of century, the white-coloured t a w a n g Indian War of 1962. compassion, stands at this stupa opens only once in famous site. It is believed 12 years during the Taktsang Monastery (45km) that the goddess rose from Khathing festival. The word Taktsang literally the first tear of compassion As part of the celebra- translates to ‘tiger’s den’. that was shed by tions, 84,000 candles are lit The monastery has been Bodhisattva Avalokiteswara. here to wish for world built on a cliffside and is peace, representing the considered one of the holi- Gorsam Chorten (85km) number of stupas built by est Buddhist shrines in all of The Zemithang Valley is Ashoka during his lifetime. ■ Arunachal Pradesh. home to the largest stupa in by Lasya Nadimpally shutterstock

52 53 Dirang. But this small town, t e n t e n

Dirang situated in a picturesque t o p t o p

Literally and figuratively, all valley nestled amidst forests roads in Arunachal Pradesh of pine, juniper and oak, lead to Tawang; and Dirang deserves more than just a p r a d e s h p r a d e s h lies on this road, some- night’s stay.

where mid-way between Dirang encompasses Tezpur and Tawang. Since everything that western the entire journey from Arunachal Pradesh is made a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l Tezpur to Tawang can take of—it gives you a glimpse about 15 hours, tourists into the region’s history, its tend to halt for the night at people, and the flora and fauna amongst others fac- A bridge near Dirang Dzong ets. The Kameng River flows b o m d i l a b o m d i l a - through the valley, past the - pretty wooden houses of the town, making for picture The monastery inside Dirang Dzong d i r a n g d i r a n g - postcard-like vistas in any - direction you look. There you’re heading to, and Orientation are kiwi, apple and orange sometimes they might even t a w a n g orchards that you can walk offer to drive you to your Since Dirang lies on the t a w a n g through, besides historical destination. Even when you road to Tawang, many monuments and monaster- reach your destination, hotels and homestays have ies both old and new. there are no information sprung up along the main However, there are no boards or guides—Dirang is road. The actual town is sit- signboards that direct you one of those places where uated in the valley. The to any of these sights. The you explore everything on Dirang Dzong is located a inhabitants of this sleepy lit- your own. The best way to little away from the main tle town will be more than learn about the places to market of the town, across a willing to give you direc- see is by striking up conver- bridge—this is the hardest tions to whichever place sations with friendly locals. place to find, so it is best if shutterstock

54 55 you let the locals guide you. rants. There are several tour t e n t e n

The New Gompa and the operators in the market who t o p t o p

Yak Research Institute are can make arrangements for close to the market. Sangti treks and other activities Valley is located at a dis- around town. p r a d e s h p r a d e s h tance of 7km to the east of

the town (not on the road THINGS TO SEE AND DO to Tawang). There is also a hot water Dirang Dzong a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l spring and a war memorial Built upon a small hillock, en route to Tawang. The the Dirang Dzong is a must main market in Dirang has a visit for everyone. Painted in few hotels and small restau- bright blues, reds and yel- lows, it is strikingly different b o m d i l a b o m d i l a - Entry to the Dirang Dzong from the rest of the build- - ings that surround it. One look at the Dzong Entry to the New Gompa in Dirang d i r a n g d i r a n g - and you will start wondering - if you should even step ent colony where people’s activities in times gone by. It inside, for it looks and feels lives are vastly different. was also the official resi- t a w a n g like somebody’s ancestral The Dirang Dzong, or dence of the Tibetan gover- t a w a n g home, which would typically Jong (as the locals call it), is nors, who ruled the area at have one of those hanging an old fortification, which is that time. boards reading ‘trespassers still inhabited by people. The fort once had the will be prosecuted’. But this Constructed in 1831, the capacity to accommodate forbidding air is exactly fort is one of the oldest the entire town when faced what makes it so enticing. Monpa structures and with an attack from an Once you ascend the nar- played an important role in enemy. Today, some of the row staircase and enter the their history. The fort used structures with stone walls complex, you’ll immediately to be the centre for admin- and wooden roofs still be transported to an anci- istrative, judicial and military remain standing within the

56 57 Dzong and several people t e n t e n

Black-necked crane live in them. t o p t o p

The Grus nigricollis, commonly referred to as the New Gompa black-necked crane, breeds in Also known as the p r a d e s h p r a d e s h the Tibetan plateau and parts Thupsung Dhargye Ling

of India and Bhutan. It is a Monastery, construction on medium-sized whitish-grey the gompa began in the crane that can weigh up to year 2008 and was complet- a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l 5.5kg. The crane is revered in ed in 2016. It was conse- Buddhist tradition—it finds crated by the Dalai Lama on representation in several 5 April 2017. An institute for monastic paintings and Buddhist cultural studies is motifs—hence it is culturally set to be established within b o m d i l a b o m d i l a - preserved. The current the monastic complex. - estimated population of the Built upon a hill with an black-necked crane is excellent view of the entire National Research Centre on Yak d i r a n g d i r a n g - somewhere between 8,800 town, this monastery is a - and 11,000 individuals. haven of peace and sereni- the monastery sits. From tionship with the animal. Hence, the bird is legally ty. Take the slope from the this vantage point, you get The yak isn’t just a useful t a w a n g protected in China, India and parking lot which leads to to see fabulous views of the mode of transportation, it t a w a n g Bhutan. It is the state bird of the main prayer hall. The entire Dirang Valley and the also provides food, in the Jammu & Kashmir. prayer hall is a striking struc- Kameng River gushing form of cheese and milk, ture surrounded by well- through it. and clothes made from its manicured gardens and wool are incredibly warm. pathways that are flanked National Research This domesticated wild by multiple rows of prayer Centre on Yak ox can be found grazing in wheels. The walking path The yak is referred to as the meadows near high moun- that begins near the prayer ‘ship of the mountain’ and tains that are on your route hall runs all the way to the the people in this part of to Tawang. The town of edge of the cliff on which the state have a close rela- Dirang is home to the

58 59 National Research Centre markings showing directions t e n t e n

on Yak, which was estab- to the Norphel Retreat t o p t o p

lished in 1989 and is the hotel. At this trisection, you only such centre in the must take a right to reach country. The centre is locat- Sangti Valley, which is home p r a d e s h p r a d e s h ed close to the market. to kiwi, apple and orange

orchards. Birdwatchers AROUND DIRANG should note that the black- necked crane (see box on a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l Sangti Valley (7km) p58) makes its way from To reach the valley, you Siberia to this area every have to drive till you find winter. During this time the trees are laden with fruit Sangti Valley and the valley is at its col- b o m d i l a b o m d i l a - ourful best. -

Hot Spring (1km) The Nyukmadung War Memorial is located en route to Tawang d i r a n g d i r a n g - Around a kilometre from - Dirang, en route to Tawang, Nyukmadung War Memorial On the opposite side of is a narrow flight of stairs by is dedicated to the army the road, there is a small tea t a w a n g the roadside. Go down the personnel who lost their stall and a Naga artefacts t a w a n g steps and walk for about lives in the battle of shop. You can stop here for 500 metres, to reach a hot Nyukmadung on November a few minutes and enjoy spring, which is considered 18, in the Sino-Indian War stunning views of the holy by the locals as it has of 1962. Eastern Himalayas, which medicinal powers. There is a chorten at the offer a tantalising glimpse of entrance to the memorial, what lies ahead. Nyukmadung War commemorating the bravery Memorial (10km) of the members of the 62 For Fast Facts, Air and Rail Built along a hill side en Infantry Brigade, who val- Information see Tawang. ■ route to Tawang, the iantly fought during the war. by Lasya Nadimpally

60 61 guneet narula planet! And then you come t e n t e n

Bomdila across a place like Bomdila. t o p t o p

In a country with states like A lovely, well-planned town Rajasthan and , where in the middle of this misty commercial tourism reigns valley. What a wonderful lit- p r a d e s h p r a d e s h supreme, Arunachal Pradesh tle surprise for the city

is quite a far-flung, off-the- dwellers among us! The beaten-track kind of place journey to Bomdila might to visit. The sparse popula- be extremely arduous, but a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l tion and the surreal natural it’s completely worth it. beauty almost make you At Bomdila, the head- feel like you are on another quarters of , you will find every- Upper Gompa thing that you so far found b o m d i l a b o m d i l a - lacking during your tryst - with Arunachal Pradesh— Bomdila is inhabited by Monpas and Sherdukpens well-paved roads, decent d i r a n g d i r a n g - hotels, pretty cafés, well- mountains in the state from commonly referred to as the - stocked shops, sports com- here—the and Upper Gompa or the plexes, exhibition grounds Gorichen peaks. Bomdila Gompa. The mon- t a w a n g and concrete houses. Bomdila is home to the astery follows Tibetan t a w a n g However, these urban con- Monpas and Sherdukpens, Buddhism and is a centre veniences still won’t distract two Buddhist tribal commu- for Buddhist cultural studies. you from the fact that you nities who inhabit western It houses a residency build- are visiting a stunningly gor- Arunachal Pradesh. ing for monks, a school, an geous place—the town is administrative block, a spread over rolling hills THINGS TO SEE AND DO prayer hall and a guest- overlooking scenic valleys, house within its premises. which make for spectacular Upper Gompa The gompa is a replica views. You will also be able The Gontse Gaden Rabye of the Tsona Gontse to see the two highest Ling monastery is more Monastery in southern

62 63 dinodia photo library Tibet, which was established prayer hall, which houses a t e n t e n

in the 15th century. It was massive Buddha statue at t o p t o p

constructed in the 1960s the altar. The main attrac- and the main prayer hall of tion is undoubtedly the the monastery was added large prayer wheel, set at a p r a d e s h p r a d e s h later by the 13th Rinpoche. little distance from the

The sancti- prayer hall under a brick- fied this hall in October and-mortar awning. 1977. Several a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l adorn the inner walls of the Middle Gompa Although the route to Middle Gompa; Lower Gompa Middle Gompa involves an arduous climb, it offers stun- ning views of the surround- b o m d i l a b o m d i l a - ing hills. You can drive for - about 2km past the market lane, after which the trek- Lady selling vegetables and utensils at Bomdila Bazaar d i r a n g d i r a n g - king begins. - Believed to be the oldest Lower Gompa the construction of the n a r ula of the three gompas, the Situated at the beginning of monastery. t a w a n g Middle Gompa was recently the main market road, the t a w a n g gu n eet renovated and its architec- Thubchong Gatsel Ling Bomdila Bazaar area ture is influenced by the Monastery (popularly known The best place to buy sou- Tibetan style, complete with as Lower Gompa), is the venirs in western Arunachal motifs and images of easiest to access. The influ- Pradesh is a Crafts Buddha in several avatars, ence of Tibetan architecture Emporium in the govern- on its walls. The Blue is prominent in this gompa, ment complex, which is Medicine Buddha statue in as evinced from the sloping located at the beginning of the main hall of the gompa, roofs, spacious prayer hall the town’s market. You can according to locals, has and the use of natural raw take home items such as healing powers. materials, such as mud, in thangkas, wooden cutlery,

64 65 guneet narula Monpa bags and shawls, motor biking and trekking t e n t e n

wooden masks, etc., which activities, can be found here t o p t o p

are available here at afford- as well. able rates. Close to the market and The market area has sev- the football ground is the p r a d e s h p r a d e s h eral restaurants and hotels.

District Ethnographic There are also shops selling Museum, where you can local produce such as vege- learn a thing or two about tables, pulses, handicrafts, the cultural traditions and a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l shoes and clothing. Several lifestyle of the Monpas, travel agents and adventure Sherdukpens and other trib- sports operators, offering al communities that dwell in the West Kameng district. Local arts and crafts u Museum Timings b o m d i l a b o m d i l a - 10.00am–4.00pm Closed - Saturdays, Sundays and government holidays A bird’s-eye view of the Rupa monastery d i r a n g d i r a n g - Tip Bomdila Bazaar pro- - vides the best range of landscape is dominated by of the hill is the proverbial products at the most afford- army barracks. You can visit icing on the wind-swept t a w a n g able prices. So don’t wait till Rupa either on your way to cake. Originally named t a w a n g you get to Tawang to begin Bomdila from Bhalukpong Tukpan, the town is situated souvenir shopping. or during your journey back in a vividly green valley with from Tawang. Take the road the Tenga River flowing by. AROUND BOMDILA that winds through the town The gompa here is a colour- and then climbs uphill. This ful wooden structure, typical Rupa (32km) road is, oddly enough, of Tibetan Buddhist archi- Twenty kilometres off the some of the best tarmac tecture. It enjoys a spectac- main Bhalukpong-Bomdila you will drive on during ular location, with moun- road lies the peaceful little your whole journey and the tains and valleys as far as town of Rupa. Ironically, its Chillipam Gompa at the top the eyes can see.

66 67 sanjiv valsan perate forests. The sanctu- t e n t e n Eaglenest Wildlife

Sanctuary (65km) ary conjoins with the Pakke t o p t o p

Spread over an area of 218 Tiger Reserve and the Sessa sq km, the Eaglenest Orchid Sanctuary, together Wildlife Sanctuary derives making up the Kameng p r a d e s h p r a d e s h its name from the Red Eagle Protected Area Complex.

Division of the Indian Army, The sanctuary is a major which was stationed in the birding destination in area in the 1950s. The park’s Arunachal Pradesh as it is a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l vegetation consists of tropi- home to around 454 avian cal, sub-tropical and tem- species including the heron, black stork, oriental white Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary ibis, harrier and falcon. The capped langur is an endan- b o m d i l a b o m d i l a - gered species that can be - spotted here. Bengal tiger, Asiatic elephant, gaur and On the way from Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary to Sela Pass d i r a n g d i r a n g - can also be seen - here. The Bugun tribes, who is almost like witnessing a different vibe from the small are indigenous to this land, live lesson in geography— towns you would have seen t a w a n g now run the Bugun Welfare undulating green plains give in Assam on your way here. t a w a n g Society (Tel: +91-3782- way to mist-enveloped low- There is a sudden nip in the 273359) and organise bird- lying hills. The Assam plains air, and the aroma of street ing tours. end just before the scenic lit- food wafting along the u Entry Fee `500 per day tle town of Bhalukpong to breeze is also unlike any for foreign nationals and make way for the Eastern you would have encoun- `100 for Indians. Himalayas. Characterised by tered before. narrow, winding roads Bhalukpong (97 km) flanked by restaurants, For Fast Facts, Air and Rail The journey from Assam to shops and lodges, Information see Tawang. ■ western Arunachal Pradesh Bhalukpong has a distinctly by Lasya Nadimpally shutterstock

68 69 arunachal pradesh Gateway to serenity

Department of Tourism Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India Phone: +91-360-2214745 | E-mail: [email protected] follow us on Arunachal Tourism @ArunachalTsm administrative capital. How- Itanagar on a grand scale— t e n t e n

ever, this city completely the Dree Festival of the t o p t o p the capital and

throws off your expectations Apatanis; , the new of what you will see in gor- year of the Monpas; the its twin geous Arunachal Pradesh. If Mopin festival of the Galos p r a d e s h p r a d e s h you believe that you’re in April are some of them.

Itanagar I Naharlagun Photographs by lasya nadimpally going to reach Itanagar and For the urban dweller, witness nature in all its the city of Itanagar serves as bountiful glory and winding the perfect gateway into the a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l roads with not a soul in mesmerising wonders of sight, you’re in for a sur- Arunachal Pradesh. prise. The roads are chock-

a-block with pedestrians, Directorate of Tourism, Government of Arunachal Pradesh, Nirvanchal Bhawan Marg, scooters and cars, and D. Ering Colony, Itanagar-791111, Arunachal Pradesh traffic police personnel Website: www.arunachaltourism.com trying to manage the cha- Fact facts n a h a r l a g u n n a h a r l a g u n - otic situation; Itanagar is - quite a busy city. However, Permits since it’s located on the Indian citizens need Inner Line i t a n a g a r foothills of the Eastern Permits to enter different i t a n a g a r Himalayas, it’s also wonder- circuits in Arunachal Pradesh. fully picturesque. You can log on to Itanagar is a great place W arunachalilp.com to apply Itanagar is a bustling city with beautiful vistas all around to experience the socio-cul- for the permit online. You can tural heritage of the entire also visit the designated Driving on this road is an state of Arunachal Pradesh. offices to procure permits. ITANAGaR exciting experience as the The pre-harvest festival of Foreigners need a protected The four-lane National High- scenic vistas that surround it the Nyishi tribe, called areas permit (PAP) to visit way 52A begins at the bor- keep you wondering about Nyokum, is celebrated here. Arunachal Pradesh. For more der check post as you enter what lies ahead. This road Many other tribes also cele- details, refer to p171. the state from Assam. leads to Itanagar, the brate their festivals in

72 73 Directorate of Tourism, t e n t e n

Government of Arunachal Pradesh, HISTORY Nirvanchal Bhawan Marg, D. Ering Colony, Itanagar-791111, Arunachal Pradesh t o p t o p Website: www.arunachaltourism.com

There are some theories that ancient Hindu texts Getting There such as the Mahabharata p r a d e s h p r a d e s h and Kalika Purana refer to Nearest airport: Guwahati

Air Arunachal Pradesh as the (420km/ 9hrs). Taxi costs place where the sage `6,000–8,000 per day Parasurama (the sixth avatar (seasonal); a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l of ) washed away his Rail Nearest railhead: sins after beheading his Naharlagun Railway Station mother on the orders of his (8km/ 20min) lies in the father, sage . It is Northeast Frontier Railway also believed that king Zone and falls under the Bhishmaka established his Rangiya Division kingdom here and his Road From Guwahati (420km/ n a h a r l a g u n n a h a r l a g u n - daughter, Rukmini, eventu- 9hrs) to Itanagar follow NH15 - ally married Lord Krishna. to Gohpur. From Gohpur get This is probably why certain on to the 4-lane NH415 to i t a n a g a r places close to Itanagar Holongi (8km) where you will i t a n a g a r (such as Bhismaknagar, show your ILP at the Rukmininagar, Parasuram checkpost. Itanagar is another Kund) are named after these 25km from Holongi Bus State characters. and a few private buses In recorded history, operate daily between Itanagar was ruled by the Guwahati and Itanagar from Ahoms of Assam from at the ISBT. Other options are least the 16th century to the shared taxi and private Sumos year 1858, when the British See Route Planner on the annexed the area. The Ita facing page. Fort was constructed by the

74 75 Ahom rulers. Itanagar restaurants. The Ita Fort can t e n t e n

became the capital of be approached from a by- t o p t o p

Arunachal Pradesh in 1987. lane near Bank Tenali. The Gompa Buddha Vihar Orientation and the Jawaharlal Nehru p r a d e s h p r a d e s h State Museum are located

The city of Itanagar is locat- close to Zero Point. Ganga ed in the central part of the Market is also a popular state. Most hotels, restau- bazaar and there are a cou- a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l rants and ATMs are concen- ple of large hospitals here. trated around the Bank However, as Itanagar is the Tenali and Zero Point areas. state’s capital, it is filled with Bank Tenali is also a busy people and traffic, and com- marketplace where you can plete peace and silence, as The state museum is a great place to learn about Arunachal find mid-range and budget is found in the rest of the accommodation. Zero Point state, is not easily found in Complex and has two brick books on Arunachal Pradesh n a h a r l a g u n n a h a r l a g u n - has luxury hotels and good this city. ramparts, three gateways and the fort. - (southern, eastern and west- u Entry `10 Timings The historic Ita Fort in Itanagar THINGS TO SEE AND DO ern), two natural ridges, and 9.00am–5.00pm i t a n a g a r several central structures, Photography `200 Closed i t a n a g a r Ita Fort which are in ruins. It was an weekends and holidays One of the five historical imperial structure, and is forts located in Arunachal said to have been construct- Jawaharlal Nehru State Pradesh, besides Bhaluk- ed using 80 lakh bricks. Museum pong, Rukmininagar, Now, only the ruins Established in the 1980s, Bhismaknagar and Mud remain, standing amidst the two-storeyed state Fort, the Ita Fort was built sprawling gardens, offering museum is probably the by the Ahom Dynasty. “Ita” splendid views of the city. best place to start if you’re means brick in the Ahom There is a small bookstore planning to travel through language. The fort is in the behind the ticket counter, the whole of Arunachal centre of the Capital where you can buy several Pradesh. Tribes and their

76 77 concentration are represent- Another section of the t e n t e n

ed on a map of the state, museum showcases the t o p t o p

with pictures of each tribe local arts and crafts of the printed on their exact geo- various tribes in the state. graphic location. Local jewellery, face masks p r a d e s h p r a d e s h There are dioramas dem- used for monastic dances in

onstrating each tribe’s pri- western Arunachal Pradesh, mary occupations. It is inter- smoking pipes and hunting esting to note that the dio- weapons such as bows and a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l ramas have been carefully arrows, are also on display. sculpted keeping in mind The museum also houses minute details such as attire, archaeological artefacts, jewellery, tattoos and head- which date back to the The yellow-roofed main prayer hall, Gompa Buddha Vihar gear of different tribes. 11th–12th centuries CE, that were excavated from differ- road that begins at the foot Gekar Sinyi Chorten in the gompa ent parts of the state. There of the hill runs all the way Around 6km from the cen- n a h a r l a g u n n a h a r l a g u n - is also a small library area up to the gompa’s parking tre of the city is the Gekar - on the ground floor, with area. The main prayer hall is Sinyi or the Ganga Lake, many books containing a small structure that has which is a beautiful, natu- i t a n a g a r information on the state, been constructed in the rally formed lake. ‘Gekar i t a n a g a r which can be browsed or middle of a well-manicured Sinyi’ means confined bought. garden. The hall has yellow water in the Nyishi lan- u Entry `100 Timings roofs (representing the guage—the lake is sur- 9.00am–5.00pm Gelugpa sect of Tibetan rounded by hard rock Photography `200 Closed Buddhism) and in front of banks. Beautiful tall trees, weekends and holidays the prayer hall is a tall ferns, and colourful orchids chorten that has been built around the lake make for a Gompa Buddha Vihar upon a raised platform. The stunning landscape. It is a The gompa is located on a gompa boasts excellent popular picnic spot among small hillock next to the views of Itanagar and the locals. Boating facilities are state museum and a snaking adjacent hills. also available here.

78 79 Courtsy eastern frontiertours & travels t e n t e n

t o p t o p

p r a d e s h p r a d e s h

a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l

Ganga Lake is Itanagar’s most popular picnic spot

Other Places of Interest restaurants in Itanagar offer There is a state-owned a variety of cuisines. The crafts centre-cum-emporium Ganga Market area is where n a h a r l a g u n n a h a r l a g u n - in Itanagar, where artefacts most restaurants are locat- - and handicrafts from across ed. Kendy Galo Food res- the state are sold. The taurant on DN Road is a i t a n a g a r Zoological Park at Chimpu must-visit. Try their Chicken i t a n a g a r houses a wide variety of Roast. Makhan Bhog serves fauna and certain avifaunal Assamese and Bengali cui- species that are particular to sines. Hotel Kerala Bhawan Arunachal Pradesh. Located serves good food. Bamboo atop the Naharlagun ridge, Feast serves great food the Polo Park is a small from the West Siang. botanical garden quite pop- ular with the locals. For additional and detailed There is a lot to explore information on ILPs and when it comes to food PAPs see p171. ■ options in Itanagar. Most by Lasya Nadimpally

80 81 sanjiv valsan experiences sub-tropical cli- t e n t e n

Naharlagun matic conditions with long t o p t o p

Situated in the foothills of monsoon months when the the Eastern Himalayas, entire area turns into spec- Naharlagun is a town that tacular shades of green. p r a d e s h p r a d e s h connects Itanagar and other Naharlagun is also home

central parts of the state to to some of the most promi- the rest of the country. The nent educational institutions town has a railway station, in the state. Off the busy a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l and a helipad. The town main roads of Naharlagun, itself lies at an elevation of you can find Nyishi bastis 200m above sea level, and where you can take a swig of the famous fermented Bamboo shoots rice beer, apong.

Things to see and do n a h a r l a g u n n a h a r l a g u n - Fresh local produce being sold at the Naharlagun market - Naharlagun is smaller and less-crowded when com- and oddities like smoked of FIFA world cup, this is i t a n a g a r pared to its neighbour rodent meat, live gandipuks where Nahalragun gathers. i t a n a g a r Itanagar. However, there are (stinkbugs) and silkworms a few interesting places to sold by the mug. Polo Park visit in the town. The Set on a small hill, not too Naharlagun market is a Mela General Ground many people know about must visit! There are lovely If you want to experience the Polo Park. Even though tribal ornaments, textiles the ‘local way of life’ when the name suggests other- and ritualistic items, organic in Naharlagun, it’s best to wise, the park is a botanical fruits and vegetables, aro- head to one of the many garden with varied flora. matic herbs, chillies and events organised at the wild foods from the villages, Mela General Ground. From For Air, Road and Rail infor- fermented bamboo shoot small festivals to screening mation see Itanagar. ■ sanjiv valsan

82 83 Ziro—you will encounter soon realise that they are t e n t e n

splendid river valleys with commonplace in the lives of t o p t o p abode of the

thick vegetation tucked the Apatanis of the Ziro amidst the low-lying moun- Valley. apatanis tains of the Eastern A trip to Ziro Valley is not p r a d e s h p r a d e s h Himalayas. And it is not just just for any ordinary tourist

Ziro Valley Photographs by lasya nadimpally the scenery that changes— —it’s for those who want to the people, their culture gain an understanding of and cuisine are also drasti- the culture and lifestyle of a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l cally different in the Ziro the Apatanis, one of the Valley. One visit to the most interesting and well- Hapoli Market here will give known communities in the you an insight into the dis-

tinct culture of this beautiful Directorate of Tourism, Government of Arunachal Pradesh, Nirvanchal Bhawan Marg, valley. Silkworms, alive or D. Ering Colony, Itanagar-791111, Arunachal Pradesh roasted depending on the Website: www.arunachaltourism.com v a l l e y v a l l e y

consumer’s preference, are Fact facts z i r o sold by the kilogram by z i r o Apatani tribeswomen in the When to go September market; the meat of rats, to April pigs, and other critters you Tourist office probably won’t be able to l Directorate of Tourism Verdant landscape around Ziro Valley recognise can be found Government of Arunachal hanging outside several Pradesh Arunachal Pradesh’s wide the largest state in the shops; sharp tools made of Papum District, Itanagar sprawl has ensured that the Northeast, you are bound to iron, stone and bamboo are Tel: 0360-2214450, 2214745 state does not possess one come across several won- also available for purchase. STD code 03788 uniting cultural or geo- derfully diverse sights that To first-time visitors, the Permits graphic characteristic, but will leave you enthralled. sight of these products may See details at the back of the many different, almost con- And this uniqueness really seem bizarre and over- book on p171. trasting identities. Since it’s hits you when you head to whelming. However, you will

84 85 country today. The pictur- Directorate of Tourism, t e n t e n

Government of Arunachal Pradesh, Nirvanchal Bhawan Marg, esque locations and salubri- D. Ering Colony, Itanagar-791111, Arunachal Pradesh t o p t o p Website: www.arunachaltourism.com

ous climate here are only the cherry on top of this Getting There unique experience. Further p r a d e s h p r a d e s h asserting the need for spe- Nearest airport: Guwahati

Air cial attention towards airport (468km/1hr). A Sumo Apatani culture is the fact taxi will cost you `5,000– that UNESCO has proposed 11,000 per day. The cost is a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l that the valley be included inclusive of the vehicle, fuel in its list of World Heritage and driver expenses. Shared Sites because of the com- Sumos are also available. munity’s high productivity Rail Nearest railhead: and unique way of preserv- Naharlagun Railway Station ing the area’s ecology. (108km/ 4hrs) offers The Apatanis practise connections between Assam v a l l e y v a l l e y

wetland rice cultivation and and New Delhi. z i r o manage to get substantial Road From Guwahati head for z i r o yields without using any Itanagar on NH15 via Gohpur machines or fertilisers. They and Tezpur. From Itanagar, you employ age-old, tried and will have to take NH415 and tested methods of sustaina- then NH13 via and ble farming and prevention Ranganadi Peni and Jath; at of soil erosion, which work the Potin tri-junction loop well in this area. They stick around Yazali and turn right to to their own well-estab- Yachuli. After that, you need lished practices in the face to head straight to the Ziro of modernisation, which is Bus State buses and shared what makes the Ziro Valley taxis ply frequently so unique, remarkable and See Route Planner on p86. beautiful.

86 87 urban conglomeration in the t e n t e n

ORIENTATION valley, where most of the t o p t o p

At an elevation of 1,500m restaurants and shops are above sea level, you will located. Beyond Hapoli is find terraced hills of paddy the quaint Siiro village p r a d e s h p r a d e s h cultivation that are encircled where you will find all the

by bamboo and pine groves resorts and homestays. in the Ziro Valley. Old Ziro also has a few Ziro is the headquarters dhabas and shops, but a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l of the Lower Subansiri dis- there is nothing much to trict. Hapoli is the main see here except the Ziro Viewpoint. At the end of Artisans of Ziro Valley Old Ziro are the famous Apatani bastis (totally seven of them), where you will wit- ness the unique Apatani v a l l e y v a l l e y

way of life. Hapoli is the main settlement in the Ziro Valley z i r o z i r o THINGS TO SEE AND DO to the Apatanis—their jew- buy daily supplies, utensils ellery, handlooms, clothes, and other utilitarian items. Hapoli kitchenware, etc. are on dis- This town is the administra- play here. The Crafts Apatani Hamlets tive centre of the district. Emporium in Ziro is divided There are seven Apatani You can visit the Crafts into two sections—the shop bastis in Ziro Valley—Hong, Emporium and the District and the workshop. At the Hari, Bulla, Hija, Dutta, Museum, which are located workshop, you will witness Mudung Tage and Bamin opposite each other. This is, how the Apatanis make car- Michi. You can drive undoubtedly, the best way pets, bell metal items, through these bastis to gain to begin your trip to Ziro. shawls, etc. a keen insight into the The District Museum You can also visit the Apatani culture and lifestyle. houses artefacts that belong Hapoli Market where locals The Apatanis are used to

88 89 shiv ahuja tourists and, if you request At Hari basti, there are sev- t e n t e n

politely, they will let you see eral trees which the t o p t o p

their distinctive houses from Apatanis believe were plant- the inside. Most Apatani ed by their ancestors when houses will have a fireplace they first moved to the val- p r a d e s h p r a d e s h at the centre of the main liv- ley. Paddy fields and fish

ing room, an open kitchen ponds separate the bastis and several storage roofs in where you will see people the living room. practising wetland cultiva- a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l Hong is the largest tion and pisciculture. Apatani basti in the valley. Ziro Viewpoint Shivalinga, Kardo Hill Located atop a small hillock adjacent to the circuit house is the Ziro Viewpoint. The Snapshots from the Ziro Festival of Music viewpoint boasts panoramic v a l l e y v a l l e y

views of the verdant valley Ziro Festival of Music z i r o spread out below, dotted z i r o with paddy fields and bam- Slowly garnering a reputation of Hano, an Itanagar-based event boo groves. being India’s Glastonbury, the manager. Having started in 2012, Ziro Festival of Music is an year after year, the festival has Tarin Fish Farm annual musical extravaganza been responsible for bringing Pisciculture is one of the pri- (organised in September) that is electronic, Indie and pop sounds mary occupations of the held in the mesmerising Ziro to the quaint, picturesque valley people in this valley. The Valley. The festival ground is and with it, hordes of youngsters Arunachal Pradesh Fisheries approximately 10km from the from the rest of India. Department set up the Tarin centre of the town and can be In a way, the festival has been Fish Farm, which houses 74 reached via a well-maintained instrumental in making Ziro an fish ponds, as a research road. The festival is the important destination on the centre on high-altitude fish brainchild of Anup Kutty, of the itinerary of the modern Indian farming techniques. band Menwhopause and Bobby backpacker. alamy images / india picture

90 91 This is also the best that resembles a Shivalinga. t e n t e n

place to witness paddy- Now, a road has been con- t o p t o p

cum-fish cultivation since structed from Hapoli, which two different types of rice gets you to the hill in about (Emoh and Mipya) and a 15 minutes. p r a d e s h p r a d e s h species of fish called Ngihi The Shivalinga here is

are raised together. 25ft in height and has a cir- cumference of about 22ft. Kardo Hill Temple There is a smaller rock adja- a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l Earlier, one had to trek for cent to it, which is consid- two hours to reach Kardo ered to be a form of Hill, which has a large rock Goddess Parvati. There is a priest who performs regular Apatani woman prayers to the rocks of and Parvati here. v a l l e y v a l l e y

True Apatani Experience Siiro Resort is one of the good accommodation options in Ziro z i r o While hotels are a great z i r o option, living in a homestay is the best way to under- have turned their homes Tam Yamyang Homestay stand the unique culture of into homestays—Ngunu (Cell: 09402464841, v el s the local communities of the Ziro Homestay (Tel: 225808, 08014012680) in Hong Ziro Valley and this is Cell: 09436047891, Village, Old Ziro. undoubtedly an experience 09856209494) at Siiro- Unless you want to sam- in itself. Ngunu Ziro, a local Hapoli Short Cut Road and ple mithun meat or wish to NGO, runs homestays in the Tajang Village; Pura Yanya join in with an Apatani fami-

fr o n tie r tou rs & t r a area. It is also involved in Homestay (Cell: 081199 ly for their traditional meal many community activities 15038) in Nenchalyang, Old of bamboo shoots and

ea s te rn such as environmental con- Ziro; Suchusi Homestay dried roasted pork, repose servation and sanitation. (Cell: 09436224834, 08575- your trust in the cooks of

Courtesy Presently, a few families 052646) in Siiro Village; and the accommodation you

92 93 shutterstock choose. Striking up a con- t e n t e n

AROUND ZIRO VALLEY versation over dinner with t o p t o p

the Apatani families that Talley Valley Wildlife you’re living with will pro- Sanctuary (35km) vide you with immense A global hotspot for p r a d e s h p r a d e s h information about the valley. biodiversity, the Talley Valley

Also, you wouldn’t want to Wildlife Sanctuary makes for miss out on a few swigs of an excellent trekking the famous apong, the local destination. The park is one a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l rice beer that will definitely of the best places in put a smile on your face; it Arunachal Pradesh to spot is served in bamboo mugs! Bhutan Glory, a butterfly species. The first record of Hanging bridge, Tamen the purple cochoa bird in Arunachal was made here. Nugnu (Cell: 9856209494; v a l l e y v a l l e y

Email: punyochade@gmail. Ward’s trogon at the Talley Valley Wildlife Sanctuary z i r o com) organises hiking and z i r o trekking tours in the Sangram (81km) Koloriang (170km) sanctuary. Paging, a tributary of the The route to Koloriang Kurung River, flows through offers enchanting views of Palin and Nyapin (75km) the picturesque little town of the Himalayas. There are The picturesque hill stations Sangram. Home to the several hanging bridges that of Palin and Nyapin are Nyishis, it is an ideal place to you will come across on located at a distance of experience the local culture. your route to the town. 25km from each other. Palin Most Nyishi festivals are cel- Koloriang is located on the and Nyapin fall under the ebrated on a grand scale in right bank of the Kurung of Sangram. When here, you River and is an ideal desti- Arunachal Pradesh and are may get to see a perform- nation for adventure sports home to the Nyishis, the ance or two of the Rikam and nature trails. ■ largest tribe in the state. Pada, a traditional dance. by Lasya Nadimpally alamy images / india picture

94 95 commendable initiatives of home to over 2,000 species t e n t e n

the forest department and of plants, 300 species of t o p t o p the big cat in

the efforts of local commu- birds, and over 30 species nities, the situation has now each of mammals, reptiles misty woods improved a lot. and amphibians. The vege- p r a d e s h p r a d e s h In September 2006, the

Pakke Tiger Reserve I Seppa and Around heads of 16 villages within Directorate of Tourism, Government of Arunachal Pradesh, Nirvanchal Bhawan Marg, the reserve area passed a D. Ering Colony, Itanagar-791111, Arunachal Pradesh resolution that listed penal- Website: www.arunachaltourism.com a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l ties for wildlife violations—a Fact facts decision that was followed up with villagers helping the When to go The best time to forest department in keep- visit Pakke is between ing strict vigil in the reserve. November and March. This innovative strategy, one However, if you are a butterfly d o i m u k h of the first of its kind in enthusiast, monsoon is the d o i m u k h - - t r India, is a marked departure ideal time, during the months t r

from conventional top-down of May and October conservation practices. The Wildlife/ Forest offices p a k k e p a k k e emphasis here is on the l Divisional Forest Office

Saniya Chaplod local village chiefs, the gaon Pakke Wildlife Sanctuary & The Pakke River flows through the tiger reserve burahs, of the Nyishi tribe, Tiger Reserve Seijosa who play an influential role Pakke Division, and was declared a in the protection of the jun- Tel: 03778-200016, 200014 game sanctuary in 1977. gle and its inhabitants as l Chairperson Tiger Reserve The sanctuary was later well as in persuading peo- Ghora Aabhe Society & Pakke Located on the border with declared a tiger reserve in ple to conserve forest Tour and Travel Management Assam and covering an area 2002. For a number of resources. Committee of 862 sq km, Pakke Tiger years, this relatively new Pakke falls within the Cell: 08974671878 Reserve was formerly part of tiger reserve witnessed ram- Eastern Himalaya Bio- STD code 03778 the Khellong Forest pant poaching, but with the diversity Hotspot, and is

96 97 tation here comprises low- the south has narrow plains t e n t e n

land semi-evergreen, ever- and sloping hill valleys. t o p t o p

green forests and Eastern Pakke can be accessed Himalayan broadleaf forests. via the small village of The most important mam- Seijosa in the east, p r a d e s h p r a d e s h mal in Pakke is, of course, Bhalukpong in the west and

the tiger, but the reserve Pakke Kessang in the north. also supports a thriving Most tourists head for the population of leopards, Seijosa entrance, either to a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l leopard cats, Asiatic black stay at the Forest Rest bears, fishing cats, barking House in Khari, or to stay at deer, elephants and sambar. the community-run Pakke Jungle Camp. Seijosa is well ORIENTATION connected with Guwahati and Tezpur through the d o i m u k h Nestled in the foothills of Soibari-Pakke Kessang d o i m u k h - - t r the Eastern Himalayas, Road. Note that there aren’t t r

Pakke Tiger Reserve is bounded to the north and Binturong or bearcat p a k k e p a k k e west by the Kameng River and to the east by the Pakke River. The reserve shares its boundary with Nameri National Park, in Assam, to the south and southeast. The reserve’s ele- vation ranges from 100m to 2,000m above sea level. The northern part of the reserve features a rugged, moun­tainous terrain, while Saniya Chaplod

98 99 Saniya Chaplod Photographs: Navendu Page

Directorate of Tourism, any signboards along the t e n t e n

Government of Arunachal Pradesh, Nirvanchal Bhawan Marg, D. Ering Colony, Itanagar-791111, route to indicate if you’re Arunachal Pradesh t o p t o p Website: www.arunachaltourism.com

heading the right way, and Getting There following the wrong route will take you towards p r a d e s h p r a d e s h Nearest airport: Tezpur Assam, so make sure to ask

Air (50km/1.5hrs) but Guwahati often for directions.­ The (280km/7–8hrs) is better Bhalukpong entrance is con- connected to Seijosa or nected through the Tezpur- a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l Bhalukpong. Taxis charge a Bomdila Road, and there is day rate as the per km system proper signage along the does not work here route. The entry point at Rail Nearest railheads: Soibari Pakke Kesang can be (36km), Rangapara (60km). But reached via the Itanagar or the Tezpur station (65km/2hrs) Seppa route. d o i m u k h is better connected u `50 per day d o i m u k h - Entry Vehicle - t r From Tezpur, take the Entry `500 per day t r

Road Camera road to Seijosa via the Still `100 Video `500 Itakhola-Seijosa Road or the p a k k e p a k k e Soibari-Pakke-Kessang Road. THINGS TO SEE AND DO Birds and orchids are popular attractions of Pakke Tiger Reserve A jeep or 4WD is imperative to drive within the forest, as Birdwatching bino­culars and a birding to be taken for a walk to the the park authorities may not The abundance of bird spe- guidebook. trees by the river, where always have one available for cies in Pakke means that Khari Base Camp offers dozens of hornbills can be tourists who wish to explore birdwatchers will never be wonderful views, with a plat- seen at dusk. If you are visit- the park. Bus Arunachal left wanting. A 10km-long form overlooking the river. ing in the winter months, Pradesh State Transport trek from Khari leads to In the afternoons, the trees you are likely to see the (APST) as well as private bus Khari Lake, where rare around the camp are flush spectacular ibisbill swoop services ply from Tezpur. white-winged wood ducks with birds. down and then up again by See Route Planner on p98. can often be spotted. Be If you decide to stay at the waters. As part of its sure to carry a set of good Pakke Jungle Camp, do ask conservation efforts to save

100 101 Aparajita Datta the hornbill from extinction, gate, with the support of t e n t e n

the Nyishi community pro- the Wildlife Trust of India’s t o p t o p

tects hornbill nests, and (WTI) Wild Aid division, to imposes hefty fines against spread awareness about the hunting and cutting down of bio-diversity of Pakke Tiger p r a d e s h p r a d e s h trees where hornbills nest. Reserve.

This informative centre Nature Interpretation displays infographics, post- Centre ers and interactive quizzes, a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l In December 2014, a Nature all of which make for an Interpretation Centre was enriching experience. set up near the Seijosa entry Village Visits and Festivals A trail in Seijosa It is a good idea to plan a trip to the reserve in such a d o i m u k h way that it coincides with d o i m u k h - - t r some local festivities in the Snapshots of celebrations from the Pakke Paga Festival t r

village, and one is able to gain a holistic experience of the people of the state, is Tourism (Kolkata Tel: 033- p a k k e p a k k e the local customs and tradi- sacrificed. 24550917, 24549719, Cell: tions of the tribes living It is a great idea to stay 09733000442/43; here. Towards the end of at one of the jungle camps W helptourism.net). February, the Nyishis cele- to immersively experience There is also an brate a three-day-long har- Pakke Tiger Reserve and its Inspection Bungalow adja- vest festival known as cultural offerings. cent to the West Bank Nyokum Yullo. Pakke Jungle Camp is a Forest Rest House. During the festival, the community-based tourism Bookings can be made mithun (a semi-domesticat- initiative implemented by through the DFO (Tel: ed bovine), which is of great the local tribal self-help con- 03778-200016, Cell: economic and cultural sig- servation group, Ghora 09436042859). ■ nificance to the tribe and Aabhe, along with Help by Shobhna Iyer guneet narula

102 103 Courtesy help tourism t e n t e n

Seppa, doimukh t o p t o p and sagalee

Located on the banks of the Kameng River, Seppa was p r a d e s h p r a d e s h earlier known as Sapla, which

means ‘marshy’ in the local language. Sure enough, the area is shrouded in mist, a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l receives heavy rainfall and is

Directorate of Tourism, Government of Arunachal Pradesh, Nirvanchal Bhawan Marg, D. Ering Colony, Itanagar-791111, Arunachal Pradesh Website: www.arunachaltourism.com

Fact facts d o i m u k h d o i m u k h - - t r September to t r

When to go March Tourist Office humid most of the year. Residents of Seppa by the banks of the Kameng River p a k k e p a k k e Department of Tourism, Seppa is the headquarters of Arunachal Pradesh the East Kameng district. To ditions and skiing. You can East Kameng district. The Doni Colony its west lies the West start your journey of this cir- District Museum and Library Itanagar Kameng district while the cuit from Doimukh, located offers great insight into Tel: 0360-2247470 (Dep Dir) Papum Pare and Kurung 25km from Itanagar, as well. the culture and lifestyle of Cell: 08794864348 Kumey districts lie on its this tribe. W arunachaltourism.com eastern side. The area is part THINGS TO SEE AND DO There are costumes, STD code 03787 of the Himalayan Biodiversity headgear, bamboo and Permits Hotspot and is home to sev- District Museum cane crafts, weapons, jewel- See details at the back of the eral hill stations and reserve and Library lery, handlooms, etc. book on p171. forests. Seppa is a popular The Nyishi tribe, the largest belonging to the Nyishi and destination for trekking expe- in the state, dominates the Aka tribes on display here.

104 105 dinodia photo library

Directorate of Tourism, Crafts Centre t e n t e n

Government of Arunachal Pradesh, Nirvanchal Bhawan Marg, D. Ering Colony, Itanagar-791111, The most distinctive feature Arunachal Pradesh t o p t o p Website: www.arunachaltourism.com

of the Nyishis is their elabo- Getting There rate headgear. At the Crafts Centre, you can see several p r a d e s h p r a d e s h Convenient airport: different types of headgear

Air Guwahati (400km/9–10hrs) is and costumes worn by well connected with several these people. daily flights a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l Rail Convenient railhead: AROUND SEPPA Guwahati. For onward journey, see ‘Road’ below Sagalee (130km) Road From Guwahati it is a The Itanagar Wildlife 400km/ 8–9hrs picturesque Sanctuary is located close to drive along NH15 to Baihata Sagalee, a pristine valley d o i m u k h Charali to Bhalukpong via with great views. The sanc- d o i m u k h - - t r Balipara, Mangaldai and tuary is spread over an area t r

Tezpur. From Bhalukpong to of 140 sq km. A traditional Nyishi house near Sagalee Seppa (150km) get on to The Himalayan black p a k k e p a k k e NH13 and the diversion after deer, musk deer, red panda their various places of wor- small town is located on Nichoba. The army keeps the and porcupines are among ship, houses, etc. the left bank of the Pare road open through the year, the most commonly found u Wildlife Sanctuary Timings River. The Rono Hill in but don’t be surprised if you animals in the park. The 9.00am–6.00pm Doimukh is home to the get stuck for a few hours. A Pam River languidly flows Rajiv Gandhi University, one vehicle with a high-ground through the wildlife sanctu- Doimukh (196km) of the biggest there is in clearance is recommended. ary. Other than the sanctu- You can begin your journey the state of Arunachal Getting a taxi from Seppa can ary, Sagalee is an ideal along this circuit in the Pradesh. The hill also pro- also be a hassle so do some place to experience the small town of Doimukh as vides for spectacular views forward planning Nyishi lifestyle. The people well. Doimukh is only 25km of the river and the moun- See Route Planner on p98. in the area still practise their from Itanagar and is easily tains beyond it. ■ traditions and you can see accessible by road. This by lasya nadimpally

106 107 before draining into the Bay structed it in 1911 to serve t e n t e n

of Bengal in Bangladesh. as a gateway to the Abor t o p t o p where the

The tenth largest river in the Hills. Today, it is home to world by discharge, its the Adi and Mising commu- hills begin banks are never too far nities. You can also see sev- p r a d e s h p r a d e s h away in this part of the eral colonial-era structures if

Pasighat | Roing | Namsai shutterstock state; and people’s everyday you walk around in the lives here are intricately town. With views of snow- linked with the river’s ebb capped mountains, the a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l and flow. town is blessed with amaz- As the people here know ing natural beauty. all too well, the river wears The town also serves as two faces: on good days, an ideal gateway to visit the nurturing river turns the destinations like Tuting, the n a m s a i n a m s a i - landscape into spectacular Daying Ering Wildlife - shades of green; but come Sanctuary, Jengging and the r o i n g r o i n g - monsoon, it overflows, pos- . - ing a great threat to life and

property in the region. Directorate of Tourism, Government of Arunachal Pradesh, Even though the river’s Nirvanchal Bhawan Marg, p a s i g h a t D. Ering Colony, Itanagar-791111, p a s i g h a t Arunachal Pradesh waters wreak havoc on peo- Website: www.arunachaltourism.com ple’s lives every year, they Fact facts The beautiful Siang River flowing through Pasighat hold it in high reverence. Located in the East Siang When to go October to originates in the high moun- district, Pasighat stretches February; avoid the monsoon Pasighat tains of Tibet. It then flows along the banks of the months (June to August) Before you visit the town of through Arunachal Pradesh Siang. The river enters Tourist offices/ Permits Pasighat, you need to where it’s called the Siang. Assam just after Pasighat. See permit details at the back acquaint yourself with a This river eventually enters Pasighat was the first town of the book. story, the tale of a mighty the plains of Assam and to be built in Arunachal STD code 0368 river. The Yarlung Tsangpo becomes the Brahmaputra, Pradesh—the British con-

108 109 THINGS TO SEE AND DO caves have also been dis- t e n t e n

covered in the villages that t o p t o p

Pasighat is a laid-back surround Pasighat. Among town where you can spend them is a porung, a bat a day or two soaking in cave, located near the vil- p r a d e s h p r a d e s h some hilly charm. The lage of Pongging where the

British built several walk-

ing paths along the banks Directorate of Tourism, Government of Arunachal Pradesh, Nirvanchal Bhawan Marg, of the Siang River here. D. Ering Colony, Itanagar-791111, Arunachal Pradesh Website: www.arunachaltourism.com a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l Unfortunately, they were destroyed when an earth- Getting There quake struck the region in 1950. However, you can Air Nearest airport: still take long walks along Mohanbari, Dibrugarh; You n a m s a i n a m s a i - the embankment of the can take the newly - river. Sunrise is an espe- inaugurated Bogibeel bridge r o i n g r o i n g - cially popular time to visit that runs across the - the banks of this beautiful Brahmaputra to the north river. You can also go raft- bank and carry on to Pasighat ing on the Siang River. via Kemi (80km approx/2hrs p a s i g h a t p a s i g h a t The town’s market has drive). Ferry services have now many colonial structures. been discontinued You can buy artefacts made Rail Nearest railhead: by the local tribes here. Dibrugarh Railway Station The town is surrounded by Road The Bogibeel bridge has several orange orchards cut down travel time in this too, so don’t forget to visit region to a large extent; you them, take long walks can hire a Sumo/Tavera from around them and, of Dibrugarh course, buy the oranges. See Route Planner on p110. Numerous interesting

110 111 Omar Khan Yamne River joins the has four rooms. t e n t e n Normi

Siang. In the past, a family Homestay in Runne Village t o p t o p

was considered wealthy if a offers one room as a home- porung was found within stay. Home-cooked meals the morang (hunting and are offered. p r a d e s h p r a d e s h fishing territory) of a clan. The best place to savour

As is the case with most the local food is in the main of Arunachal Pradesh, the market area. There are sev- best places to soak in the eral standard eateries and a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l local culture is in home- sweet shops along the main stays. The Takar Homestay market road. But it is best to have your regu- Fishing in Pasighat lar meals at your hotels or homestays as they tend n a m s a i n a m s a i - to be more wholesome - and filling. r o i n g r o i n g - Sun sets upon the Daying Ering Wildlife Sanctuary - AROUND PASIGHAT Jengging (197km) Mouling National Park Pasighat-Jengging- (195km) p a s i g h a t Daying Ering Wildlife p a s i g h a t Sanctuary (55km) Yingkiong is a good circuit, Spread over an area of 483 There is a cluster of river- the towns serving as bases sq km, the park is home to ine islets in the Daying for good trekking routes. some rare species of fauna Ering Wildlife Sanctuary Kekar Monying is a black such as the serow, goral, that are home to wintering rock where Adi warriors takin, clouded leopard, waterfowl. The tiger, hog made their last stand against black bear and red panda. deer, wild buffalo, hispid the British in the 1912 Birding enthusiasts will be in hare and elephant can all British-Abor War. There is for a treat as the park plays be found in these enchant- also the memorial cairn to host to a large number of ing forests of central Noel Williamson, a political migratory birds. ■ Arunachal. officer of the British. by Lasya Nadimpally shutterstock

112 113 Courtesy arunachal pradesh tourism mountains that are closer to t e n t e n

ROING the border with China. A t o p t o p

The Lower Dibang Valley trip through this area is district is bordered by the bound to captivate you. in the p r a d e s h p r a d e s h north, the in

THINGS TO SEE AND DO the east, China in the north- east and Assam in the The Dibang River flows near south. The area boasts of the town of Roing, making it a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l wonderfully contrasting a picture-perfect destina- landscapes—low-lying hills tion. The Nehru Van Udyan that rise from the Assam is a well-maintained garden plains, thick rainforests that with an orchidarium. You will cover most of the land, sce- also see orange orchards n a m s a i n a m s a i - nic valleys by the Dibang set in the backdrop of undu- - River and the snow-capped lating green plains and low- r o i n g r o i n g - lying hills. - Hanging bamboo bridge The Baily Bridge, con- The Dibang River gushes over boulders structed over the Deopani River, affords some spectac- adise for campers. You can location. Help Tourism’s p a s i g h a t p a s i g h a t ular sights. When in Roing, spend several days here liv- Dibang Valley Jungle Camp you can also visit the sur- ing the camp life and mak- (Tel: 0353-2433683, rounding Idu Mishmi and ing the most out of the best 2534896, Cell: Adi villages. things nature has to offer to 09733000442, 098628- you. There are several 29416) is a great place to Camping campsites which provide stay. Meals are simple, yet With very little population, accommodation, meals and sumptuous. The camp is a beautiful, unexplored vistas, organise local sightseeing haven for birdwatchers! rolling hills, hanging bam- and activities. Jibi Pulu’s Mishmi Hill boo bridges and a gushing Alternatively, you can Camp (Cell: 09862856981), river around, Roing is a par- also pitch a tent at a good located by the Deopani Courtesy arunachal pradesh tourism

114 115 River, is a picturesque local- t e n t e n AROUND ROING

style homestay; Jibi can t o p t o p

help you with your itinerary Sally Lake (3km) and plan your outdoor A part of the Mehao activities. He is also an Wildlife Sanctuary, the Sally p r a d e s h p r a d e s h excellent cook and rustles Lake is a naturally formed

up delicious local dishes for waterbody that is surround- his guests. ed by thick vegetation. There are good local res- The Sally Lake offers a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l taurants to eat out in Roing, some great views. There is a or you might want to stick tourist lodge for accommo- to the meals being provided dation near the lake, but it at your campsite; unless, of is currently not functional. course, you fancy cooking n a m s a i n a m s a i - for yourself. - (17km) r o i n g r o i n g - Pork is a local delicacy Spread over an area of 281 - sq km, the Mehao Wildlife Sanctuary is home to some rare species of fauna such Asian Barred Owlet, Mehao Wildlife Sanctuary p a s i g h a t p a s i g h a t as the takin, hoolock gibbon, tiger, leopard Bhismaknagar (30km) Bhishmaka’s kingdom. The and red panda. The oldest archaeological site semi-circular fortress stretch- The park was declared a in the area, Bhismaknagar es for an area of 10 sq km. It sanctuary in 1980 and houses the ruins of a hill fort was excavated in the period includes four types of for- dating back to the 12th cen- between 1960 and 1973. ests, namely, tropical ever- tury CE. The fort is named green forest, sub-tropical after king Bhishmaka, a char- For Fast Facts, Air, Road and temperate forest, tem- acter in the Mahabharata. and Rail information, see perate broadleaf forest and Some believe that the fort Pasighat. ■ temperate coniferous forest. was once a part of by Lasya Nadimpally sanjiv valsan

116 117 sanjiv valsan Arunachal Pradesh are also t e n t e n

Namsai home to the Tai Khampti, t o p t o p

An almost continuous Singpho, Mishmi and Meyor stretch of emerald green tea tribes. The Khamptis follow gardens flank both sides of Theravada Buddhism and p r a d e s h p r a d e s h the scenic road that stretch- have several temples in the

es from Dibrugarh to area. The region finds men- Namsai. The aromatic fra- tion in Hindu scriptures as it grance of Assam tea is is closely connected to the a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l impossible to ignore in this legend of Parasuram, one of part of the state. Lord Vishnu’s dasavataras. As you cross and The Noa-Dihing and Lohit enter Arunachal Pradesh at rivers flow through Dirak, the Assam plains con- this region. Rising from the n a m s a i n a m s a i - tinue till Chowkham. The plains beyond Chowkham, - Deori live here. the last few peaks of the r o i n g r o i n g - Namsai and the sur- Eastern Himalayas stand - rounding areas in eastern tall, in stark relief to the deep blue sky. The Golden Pagoda is a stunning sight to behold p a s i g h a t Directorate of Tourism, p a s i g h a t Government of Arunachal Pradesh, Nirvanchal Bhawan Marg, D. Ering Colony, Itanagar-791111, THINGS TO SEE AND DO Arunachal Pradesh Website: www.arunachaltourism.com Golden Pagoda well-manicured garden, Fact facts The tribes in Namsai and Located in Tengapani, a lit- which has several statues of the surrounding areas have tle ahead of the main Buddha and other mytho- When to go October to vibrant cultural traditions. town, the Golden Pagoda logical figures. As the name February; avoid the monsoon When here, you can witness is one of the largest suggests, the gompa has months (June to August) their traditional dances, Buddhist monasteries in been painted golden and, Tourist Offices/Permits games and regional festivals the region. hence, its façade makes for See details at the back of the such as Tamladu, a Mishmi Constructed only in the one of the most stunning book p170 festival, and Sanken (the past decade, the gompa is sights that you can witness Buddhist new year). situated in the middle of a in the state.

118 119 lasya nadimpally

Directorate of Tourism, Other Temples t e n t e n

Government of Arunachal Pradesh, Nirvanchal Bhawan Marg, D. Ering Colony, Itanagar-791111, Unlike in western Arunachal Arunachal Pradesh t o p t o p Website: www.arunachaltourism.com

Pradesh, which follows Getting There the Mahayana sect of Buddhism, most monasteries p r a d e s h p r a d e s h Nearest airport : Dibrugarh on this side of the state fol-

Air Airport (118km/3.5hrs) is low the Hinayana order. The served by flights from Kolkata Khamptis, in particular, fol- and Delhi. You can hire a taxi low the Theravada school of a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l for Namsai or check for a the Hinayana sect, which hotel pick-up. Taxis will charge follows the older, more tra- around `4,500 (min) ditional beliefs and practic- Rail Tinsukia Junction (42km/ es of the religion. There are 1.5 hrs) from Dibrugarh is several Hinayana Buddhist n a m s a i n a m s a i - served by several trains such viharas in the Khampti set- - as the Dibrugarh-New Delhi tlement areas that are tradi- r o i n g r o i n g - Rajdhani, Dibrugarh-Amritsar, tionally called ‘chong’. The A traditional Khampti tribe house near Namsai - Dibrugarh-Chandigarh Namsai Chong and the Express, Dibrugarh-Kolkata Momong Chong are famous Namsai Reserve Forest, a Pradesh end and the wind- Express and Dibrugarh- in the region. part of the Piyong Reserve ing journey into the moun- p a s i g h a t p a s i g h a t Bangalore Express amongst Forest. There is also a tradi- tains begins. others. Namsai is located at a Other Places of Interest tional mat-making unit at When you visit the region distance of about 72.5km (2hr The Noa-Dihing River, which Namsai, where you can near Chowkham, you can drive) from Tinsukia originates in Tibet and joins learn more about the arts experience the culture of Road From Dibrugarh take the Brahmaputra in Assam, and crafts of the region. local tribes and participate NH15 to Namsai (118km/ flows through Namsai. in their festivities. It is also a 3.5hrs) via Chaubua Panitola, There is a bridge that has AROUND NAMSAI place of great biodiversity Tinsukia, Doom Dooma, Dirak been constructed across the as it is the nodal point of and Chowkham river, just outside Namsai. It Chowkham (26km) the Manabhum and See Route Planner on p110. offers splendid views of the This is the region where the Tengapani reserve forests. ■ waterbody. You can visit the plains of eastern Arunachal by Lasya Nadimpally

120 121 The , locally angling, biking, paragliding t e n t e n Siom River

called Yargyap Chu, flows and river rafting, all in the t o p t o p MONASTERIES,

through the valley and lap of nature with friendly offers river rafting and locals playing host to you. ■ RITUALS AND MORE angling opportunities. But by Shobhna Iyer & p r a d e s h p r a d e s h Mechuka is more about its LASYA NADIMPALLY

Mechuka | Basar people than its spell-bind- shutterstock

ing natural beauty. Directorate of Tourism, Government of Arunachal Pradesh, Nirvanchal Bhawan Marg, The village is inhabited D. Ering Colony, Itanagar-791111, Arunachal Pradesh Website: www.arunachaltourism.com a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l by the lesser-known but friendly Buddhist Membas, getting there and the animist Adis. The 400-year-old Samten Air Convenient Airports: Yongcha Monastery, locat- You can fly to Guwahati or ed on a hillock on the west- Dibrugarh and then head to b a s a r b a s a r - ern edge of the village, is Pasighat and make your - the most prominent tourist journey upwards to attraction here. The Samten Mechuka. Earlier, one m e c h u k a Yongcha belongs to the had to take a ferry from m e c h u k a Mahayana sect of Buddhism Dibrugarh across the and was built around the Brahmaputra, but now there The Siom River flows through Mechuka same time as the Tawang is the Bogibeel bridge which Monastery in western cuts the journey short by 2-3 views of the snow-capped Arunachal Pradesh. hours. Mechuka Eastern Himalayas. You can time your visit to Rail Nearest Railhead: The hamlet of Mechuka lies coincide with Adventure @ Naharlagun near Itanagar at an altitude of 1,828m in a things to see and do Mechuka, the 3-day-long Road From Itanagar take the forested valley, in the Shi annual adventure festival Road to Along through Yomi district. It is close to The high-altitude Mechuka organised in the month of Pasighat via the Indo-China border and Lake is one of the biggest November. You can partici- See Route Planner on p124. thereby offers spectacular attractions in the village. pate in activities such as

122 123 sanjiv valsan t e n t e n

t o p t o p

p r a d e s h p r a d e s h

a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l Basar offers spectacular views of the Eastern Himalayas

Basar THINGS TO SEE AND DO A town located in the Although Basar is breath- b a s a r b a s a r - Lepa-Rada district of takingly beautiful, not many - Arunachal Pradesh, Basar people know of this hidden is home to the Galo peo- paradise. You can visit the m e c h u k a ple. Basar sits at an eleva- many orange and pineapple m e c h u k a tion of 578m above sea orchards or walk alongside level, and enjoys pleasant the lush green paddy fields. climatic conditions Basar is also a great desti- throughout the year. The nation for those interested in town and its surrounding hiking and trekking. If you’re areas are famous for its interested in other adventure wet rice cultivation. activities such as caving, you The religious customs of can trek to reach the Tapan this region are much like Penru series of caves located that of the Apatani valley. 20km from Basar. ■ The Galo people follow by Shobhna Iyer & animism. LASYA NADIMPALLY

124 125 Tuting, remember that The China border is visible t e n t e n

you’re almost heading to from Tuting. t o p t o p A bridge across

India’s international border with China. If visiting such THINGS TO SEE AND DO forever far-flung destinations is p r a d e s h p r a d e s h on your bucket list, this little

Although Tuting is pretty Tuting | Yingkiong town is a great place to con- disconnected from the rest sider. The area is mainly of the world, there are a few inhabited by the Adi and the interesting tourist destina- a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l Khamba tribes who follow tions here. Donyi-Polo (a prominent reli- You can visit the newly gion of the tribes of constructed Tuting gompa, central Arunachal Pradesh) which is set in a picturesque and Tibetan Buddhism, location, or take a day respectively. trip to the scenic Shibi While here, you can catch waterfall to engage in out- y i n g k i o n g y i n g k i o n g - the Solung harvest festival, door activities. - which is celebrated on a It is also a great idea to grand scale by the Adi tribe visit Tuting in either t u t i n g t u t i n g and Losar, which is the September or February to Tibetan new year. catch the Solung or Losar Make sure to book your festivals, respectively. stay at the PWD Inspection Owing to its remote loca- Tuting Monastery and its picturesque backdrop Bungalow well in advance tion, there aren’t many as there are very few options for you to stay and Tuting Located in the Upper Siang accommodation options in eat in Tuting. district, Tuting is 270km from the area. The little village of Tuting is Yinkiong and the road that When here, you’ll be For Fast Facts, Air, Road so far and off the beaten leads to it is in fair-weather completely cut off from the and Rail information, see path that reaching here feels conditions even during the rest of the world; there is Pasighat. ■ like an adventure in itself. dry months. While visiting hardly any mobile network. by Lasya Nadimpally

126 127 ahtushi Deshpande t e n t e n

t o p t o p

p r a d e s h p r a d e s h

a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l

Cane bridges are commonplace in this part of the state y i n g k i o n g y i n g k i o n g - Yingkiong ence adventure activities in - The Siang flows through this their rawest forms, you tiny hamlet. The population should head right to t u t i n g t u t i n g consists mainly of Adis. Do Yingkiong. Besides, the try attending a local festival dense forests that surround or two while you’re here. the area make it a great Nature is at its bountiful destination to witness some best in Yingkiong. There are of the diverse flora and mountains, valleys and riv- fauna that Arunachal ers here. This aspect also Pradesh has on offer. makes the little town an ideal place for adventure For Fast Facts, Air, Road activities such as trekking, and Rail information see hiking, angling and camp- Pasighat. ■ ing. If you prefer to experi- by Lasya Nadimpally

128 129 Directorate of Tourism, t e n t e n Government of Arunachal Pradesh,

ANINI Nirvanchal Bhawan Marg, D. Ering Colony, Itanagar-791111, Arunachal Pradesh Website: www.arunachaltourism.com t o p t o p spectacular vistas,

The least populated district in the country, even though The information shamanic rituals it is the largest in the state p r a d e s h p r a d e s h (9,129 sq km), the Dibang October to

ANINI | MAYUDIA PASS When to go Photographs by sanjiv valsan Valley is perfect for seekers February; avoid the monsoon of solitude. The population months (June to August) density is only 0.8 inhabit- Tourist Offices/ Permits

See details at the back of a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l ants per square kilometre! The Dibang River, which the book. originates in China, flows STD code 03801 through this particular dis- trict and is the lifeline of the Getting There residents here—members of Air Nearest airport: the Idu Mishmi tribe. Mohanbari, Dibrugarh (300km m a y u d i a m a y u d i a - Dibang Valley boasts approx/ 7–8 hrs); Hire a taxi - enchanting sights—snow- Rail Nearest railhead: a n i n i covered peaks, river valleys, Dibrugarh Railway Station a n i n i deep gorges and rainfor- Road From Dibrugarh take ests. Anini is the headquar- NH15 and NH115 to get to ters of this far-flung district. the Dhaulaghat-Sadiya Bridge The town is situated close via Tinsukia, Doom Dooma to Mipi, the northernmost and Rupai Siding. point of Northeast India. After crossing the Located on a high pla- Brahmaputra, carry on along teau overlooking the Dri NH 115 and NH 313 for Anini and Mathun river valleys, via Roing, and Akobe, Anini was once a remote from Sadiya outpost that could only be See Route Planner on p132. Spectacular river valleys near Talin reached after an arduous

130 131 t e n t e n

t o p t o p

p r a d e s h p r a d e s h

a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l

A scene from the Reh Shamanic rituals m a y u d i a m a y u d i a - - 14-day-long trek. A road has snow-capped mountains. If a n i n i been constructed here now you’re visiting the region in a n i n i to make the journey easier. February, remember that it’s time for the Reh Festival. THINGS TO SEE AND DO ‘Reh’ means ‘to call’. During this festival, individual clan The real attraction of Anini members who reside in far is the exciting journey to corners of the region come the countryside. You get to together to celebrate see splendid river valleys Goddess Nanyi-Intaya, the and rainforests enroute. creator of the universe. The There is nothing much to do festival involves dancing in Anini but marvel at the (performed by the shaman), views of the surrounding feasting and drinking. The

132 133 tribe has an interesting tra- boasts of spectacular views t e n t e n

dition where they present of the Eastern Himalayas. t o p t o p

their relatives with a long The town is the sub-divi- string with knots called sional headquarters of the ‘tayih’. The receivers of the Lower Dibang Valley district. p r a d e s h p r a d e s h tayih are supposed to tie it A two-hour trek from Hunli

at a prominent place in their will take you to the Kupuli homes and cut off one knot Cave Temple, which is an every single day until the important religious site. a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l day of the festival. There is a Circuit House (Cell: 09402476002, 09436- Around Anini 222202) perched upon a ridge here, which offers a Hunli (139km) splendid view of the valley. A biker at the snow-covered Mayudia Pass Situated at an altitude of Close by is an Inspection 1,240m above sea level, the Bungalow. Both the places m a y u d i a m a y u d i a - quaint little town of Hunli is offer four rooms each. ■ MayUdia Pass region is also a great desti- - set in a scenic valley and by Lasya Nadimpally Located at an altitude of nation for trekking. a n i n i 2,655m above sea level, The winding road that a n i n i Restaurant located en route to Anini the Mayudia Pass affords leads to Mayudia from breathtaking views of the Roing is a picturesque drive. lofty Himalayas. If you visit The Mayudia town close by the pass during the winter offers accommodation in months, from December to the form of a Forest Rest March, you will be gifted House. There is also a with the sight of snow-cov- Coffee House here. ered mountains all around you. However, the pass, and For information on Fast its surrounding areas, offer Facts, Air, Road and Rail see spectacular views at any Pasighat. ■ time of the year. Further, the by Lasya Nadimpally

134 135 Directorate of Tourism, t e n t e n Government of Arunachal Pradesh,

Nirvanchal Bhawan Marg, Parasuram D. Ering Colony, Itanagar-791111, Arunachal Pradesh Website: www.arunachaltourism.com t o p t o p of myths and

Kund Situated within the Kamlang The information mammals Reserve Forest area, the p r a d e s h p r a d e s h picturesque Parasuram September to

Parasuram Kund | Tezu | Wakro When to go March shutterstock Kund is a site of great reli- gious importance. Tourist Office According to a legend l Department of Tourism, a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l recorded in the sacred Arunachal Pradesh Hindu text Kalika Purana, Tel: 0360-2247470 (Dep. Dir.) the sage Parasuram (one of Email: [email protected] Lord Vishnu’s dasavtaras), W arunachaltourism.com w a k r o washed away his sin of mat- w a k r o - - ricide in the waters of the Getting There at the Brahma- Air Nearest airport is k u n d k u n d

kund here. Dibrugarh, 173 km from The site is popular Kamlang Wildlife Sanctuary among Hindu pilgrims in (KWS), It has regular flights India and , who travel from Guwahati and Kolkata p a r a s u r a m here to take a dip in the and connecting flights from p a r a s u r a m waters of the Lohit River Delhi. Prepaid Taxi available to during the harvest festival of reach the sanctuary Rail in the Nearest railhead: Tinsukia month of January. Railway Station. Buses and taxi The area plays host to a available to the sanctuary. fair during this time when Road From Dibrugarh via tribes living in the surround- Tinsukia NH15. Regular Buses ing mountains travel here to run here trade in livestock, rugs and See Route Planner on p138. The mighty Lohit River surrounded by rolling hills trinkets. ■

136 137 shutterstock t e n t e n

t o p t o p

p r a d e s h p r a d e s h

a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l

A road leading to Tezu, headquarters of the Lohit district w a k r o w a k r o - -

Within Tezu, you can pay k u n d Tezu k u n d

a visit to the District The headquarters of the Museum and Crafts Centre, Lohit district, Tezu is located which has a repository of on the banks of the Lohit information on the district, p a r a s u r a m River. Tourists can start their its tribes, culture and histo- p a r a s u r a m journey to the surrounding ry. You could also check out areas from this town. the Tezu Botanical Garden. However, Tezu itself is a If time permits, go to beautiful place to spend Dong, which is the eastern- some time to soak in the most village in India. It is spectacular views of the riv- located at the confluence of erine vistas. Tezu has decent the Sati and Lohit rivers and road connectivity, a Circuit at the tri-junction of India, House, a market and several China and Myanmar. ■ accommodation options. by Lasya Nadimpally

138 139 Abhinav Kumar home to the hoolock gib- t e n t e n

Wakro bon, tiger and takin, among t o p t o p

Nestled in the Mishmi hills, other species. The Glow the picturesque hill station Lake in Wakro is a scenic of Wakro is home to the high-altitude lake, which p r a d e s h p r a d e s h Kamlang Reserve Forest offers spectacular views of

and Kamlang Tiger Reserve. the surrounding mountains. Wakro’s biodiversity is char- Wakro is also famous for acterised by thick vegeta- adventure sports. a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l tion and a wide variety of It is an ideal destination fauna; it is an organic hub to start your treks in this for oranges and green tea. region of the state. The wildlife sanctuary is Whitewater rafting on the w a k r o Lohit River is also a popular w a k r o - - Kamlang Tiger Reserve activity here. k u n d k u n d

Kamlang Tiger Reserve Named after the Kamlang River that flows across the The river which flows through the Kamlang Tiger Reserve reserve, the park is spread p a r a s u r a m over an area of around 783 reserve, it has become a lies mostly unexplored. p a r a s u r a m sq km and is home to some part of the All-India Tiger Mammals that have been of the important endemic Estimation exercise, the spotted in the park include species found in the Mishmi quadrennial census con- sun bear, clouded leopard hills. Kamlang is one of the ducted all over India to doc- and the Assamese lesser-known wildlife areas ument tigers in the wild. macaque. Patrolling teams of Arunachal Pradesh, and This has led to experts from have regularly spotted was given the status of a the census team coming to Mishmi takins and Tiger Reserve as recently as the place and studies on Himalayan serows. ■ March 2017. With the decla- flora and important faunal by Lasya Nadimpally & ration of it as a tiger species, but the reserve still ABHINAV KUMAR Photograps: Abhinav Kumar

140 141 be one of the most expen- woollen carpets with rich t e n t e n

sive roads in the world. and exotic designs. t o p t o p adventure in

Miao also has its helipad, from where a helicopter Around Miao the woods operates up and down to p r a d e s h p r a d e s h the border town of

(140km) Miao | Jairampur | Vijoynagar. The town’s main Situated on the easternmost guneet narula street is dotted with the tip of India is the beautiful ubiquitous tea-shops, PCOs, hill town of Khonsa, which a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l a post office and stalls serves as the headquarters selling vegetables and dif-

ferent varieties of fish. Directorate of Tourism, Government of Arunachal Pradesh, Nirvanchal Bhawan Marg, Further into the town lies D. Ering Colony, Itanagar-791111, n p Arunachal Pradesh n p

the mini zoo. Website: www.arunachaltourism.com The zoo is home to var- The Information ied species of fauna com- mon to this part of the state When to go November to n a m d a p h a n a m d a p h a - such as hoolock gibbons, March - Assamese macaques, Wildlife/ Forest Dept office m i a o leopard, porcupines and ● Field Director, Project Tiger m i a o The stony banks of the Noa-Dihing River slow loris. Namdapha Tiger Reserve, It also boasts a variety of Miao District. Tel: via the historic 430 km-long flora, includ­ing rare orchids 03807-222249 Miao Stilwell Road, which used to as well as a wealth of timber ● District Informatics Officer A charming little town set connect Margherita in species. Located 4km from DC Office, on the banks of the Noa- Assam to Kunming in China. Miao, the Choephelling Tel: 03808-222621/ 222840 Dihing River, Miao serves as Built by Chinese troops in Tibetan Refugee Settlement ● District Commissioner Office a gateway to the natural 1942 under the supervision Camp is worth a short visit. Changlang District. Tel: 03808- jewel of Arunachal Pradesh, of US Army General Joseph The settlement is known 222221 Namdapha National Park. Warren Stilwell during for its carpet-weaving centre STD code 03807 The town can be reached World War II, and is said to that produces high-quality

142 143 alamy images / india picture t e n t e n

t o p t o p

p r a d e s h p r a d e s h

a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l n p n p

A bird’s-eye view of Khonsa village n a m d a p h a n a m d a p h a - - of . A three- you can spy on the white m i a o hour drive southwest from gibbon or track the red m i a o Miao, Khonsa borders panda. When in town, Assam in the south and head to the Khonsa Myanmar in the east. Museum that houses tradi- The charm of Khonsa lies tional artefacts. The District in its pristine setting, sur- Museum has exhibits that rounded by moun­tains and showcase the culture and dense forests. The area traditions of the locals. around Khonsa offers exhil- You can also visit Kheti arating treks through for- and Lajo villages, inhabited ests. In April, the forests by the Nocte tribes. ■ are flush with orchids and by Shobhna Iyer

144 145 ing through some serpen- t e n t e n

Jairampur tine roads, could seem diffi- t o p t o p

Located in the Changlang cult at first; but the tough district of Arunachal Pradesh journey will soon be forgot- at an elevation of 200m ten as the town is an oasis p r a d e s h p r a d e s h above sea level, Jairampur of peace.

is a small town that is home to the Tangsas and Things to See and Do Singphos. Reaching this lit- a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l tle town, near the Indo- There are several places of Myanmar border, after pass- interest in and around

The historic Stilwell Road constructed during World War II n p n p

Jairampur Cemetery, burial grounds for World War II martyrs n a m d a p h a n a m d a p h a - - Jairampur. First, there is the treacherous terrain. For this m i a o Jairampur Cemetery. It is reason, the pass earned m i a o the burial grounds for sol- the nickname of ‘Hell Pass’ diers who died in WWII. over the years. The lake, The town of is on the other hand, was a must-visit for everyone. used as an emergency soft From here, you can reach landing strip during World the Pangsau Pass and the War II for the fighter planes Lake of No Return, which that were attacked by the you can see from the pass enemies. Hence, it (the lake is in Myanmar). acquired the name, Lake of Both the areas are hard to No Return. ■ reach and are marked by by Lasya Nadimpally swapan nayak

146 147 narendra bisht t e n t e n

t o p t o p

p r a d e s h p r a d e s h

a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l n p n p

n a m d a p h a n a m d a p h a - - m i a o m i a o

es along the international The Noa-Dihing River winds its way through Namdapha Namdapha border between India and National Park Myanmar. height of 5,000m) and the km and a buffer zone of 177 A few kilometres from the Spanning over varying snow-fed rivers that criss- sq km. The vegetation here town of Miao, the elevations, the park har- cross through the area have changes from tropical moist Namdapha National Park is bours many natural habitats, kept it well protected and forests at the lower altitude the largest protected area in making it one of the richest largely unexplored. to montane forests and the Eastern Himalaya Bio- and most biodiverse parts Established as part of alpine meadows at the diversity Hotspot. Among of the subcontinent. Project Tiger in 1983, higher elevations. the biggest national parks Namdapha’s remote loca- Namdapha National Park A number of rare orchid of India, Namdapha stretch- tion, the Dapha Range (at a has a core area of 1808 sq species can be found in the

148 149 guneet narula park, including the lady’s t e n t e n

slipper, blue vandal, foxtail t o p t o p

and dendrobium. The lower reaches have a dense undergrowth, with abundant p r a d e s h p r a d e s h bamboo and canebrakes.

With trees reaching as high as 150m, the jungle has a thick canopy. Needless to Elephants at Namdapha; (facing page) Indian giant squirrel a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l say, the forest at Namdapha

is near unnavigable and Directorate of Tourism, Government of Arunachal Pradesh, Nirvanchal Bhawan Marg, impene­trable, and hence D. Ering Colony, Itanagar-791111, Arunachal Pradesh proves quite challenging Website: www.arunachaltourism.com n p n p

for wildlife-watchers to spot Fact facts animal or bird species. While this means that there When to go November to will be no jeep safaris, nor March n a m d a p h a n a m d a p h a - lounging in a hammock Wildlife/ Forest Dept offices - while deer graze nearby, it l Field Director, Project Tiger m i a o certainly ensures an unpara- Namdapha Tiger Reserve m i a o leled nature experience. Miao, Changlang District Namdapha is home to Tel: 03807-222249 many species of mammals, l District Informatics Officer such as tiger, leopard (both DC Office clouded and snow), Changlang District elephant, red panda, deer Tel: 03808-222621/ 222840 and even the endangered l District Commissioner Office hoolock gibbon. Changlang District The park is also home to Tel: 222221 several avian species, STD code 03807 including white-bellied

150 151 guneet narula

Directorate of Tourism, t e n t e n Government of Arunachal Pradesh,

Nirvanchal Bhawan Marg, D. Ering Colony, Itanagar-791111, Arunachal Pradesh Website: www.arunachaltourism.com t o p t o p

Getting There p r a d e s h p r a d e s h Nearest airport: Dibrugarh

Air (197km/7hrs to Deban via Miao/20km/1hr). Connected to all the metros via Guwahati. ` a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l Taxi 7,500 (to Deban), and `6,000 to Miao, but book in advance. In case of flight delays you may be charged n p n p

for two days (`9,000–10,000) Rail Nearest railhead: Tinsukia (150km/ 6hrs) is served by connections from Delhi, n a m d a p h a n a m d a p h a - Guwahati and New Jalpaiguri. - Road From Dibrugarh NH37 heron, snowy-throated bab- Accommodation options in Namdapha m i a o to Makum via Tinsukia; NH38 bler, and five species m i a o to Lekhapani via Ledo; SH to of hornbills. Namdapha River, Deban is an excel- the red-tailed minla and Miao; link road to Deban Bus boasts a variety of butterfly lent base for exploring collared treepie. services only up to Miao from species, such as the koh-i- Namdapha. The site is a Tinsukia noor, red caliph, cruiser, wiz- haven for naturalists, offer- Treks Ferry To save time, from ard and fluffy tit. ing plenty of birding Trekking is the only way to Tinsukia get to Wakro opportunities. Visitors will explore Namdapha and (100km). Catch the ferry Things to See and Do be able to spot little and experience nature at its for the 5hr journey to Deban slaty-backed forktails, scar- wildest. The first part of the on the Deban River Deban let minivets, lesser and trek involves crossing the See Route Planner on p144. Located on the northern greater yellownape wood- Noa-Dihing River. When the banks of the Noa-Dihing peckers and perhaps even flow is less, you can simply

152 153 narendra bisht walk on the stones and While it is possible to trek t e n t e n

cross over shaky yet reliable 14km to Bulbulia—the third t o p t o p

wooden bamboo bridges, base camp—and return to but when the water levels the starting point the same are high, you will need a day, it can be extremely tir- p r a d e s h p r a d e s h ferry (arranged by the ing and is only recommend-

Forest Department) to take ed if you are pressed for you across the rapids. time. The trail from the river There are two ways to will take you up an incline a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l trek in Namdapha, depend- for about 300m, before you ing on time and availability. walk a short distance along

Trekkers en route to Moti Jheel n p n p

View of the Noa-Dihing River from the forest rest house in Deban n a m d a p h a n a m d a p h a - a ridge to the picturesque in Namdapha National Park. - Haldibari campsite. Set up Even today, the Forest m i a o an overnight camp and lis- Department finds it an m i a o ten to the sounds of the uphill task to set up moni- jungle—the birds calling out toring and image-capturing to each other, the hoolock devices in order to deter- gibbons sounding off their mine how many tigers there warning calls and the rustle are. So, while you may not of leaves in the wind. run into a tiger during your The next campsite, time there, remember that Hornbill Glade, is only 5km you are on foot, so take due away, but the path that caution in these areas ■ leads to it is enchanting. by Shobhna Iyer Tigers aren’t easy to spot Inputs by Shreya Sarkar narendra bisht

154 155 Legend Hotel Dilli Phu Tariff `1,800-4,500; TE Facilities t e n t e n

NH National Highway Location Hill Top Tel 223947 Cell Restaurant, Internet, room service, TV Accommodation type? Special Hotel needs? 06909448824 W hoteldilliphu.com t o p t o p National Park

NP Spot these flags Spot these flags Rooms 7 Tariff `1,750-2,000 Facili- Lungta Residency Opp Opposite ties Restaurant, Internet, TV Location Centre Point Tel 222555 PO Post heritage spa treks Cell 094026566363 Rooms 16 Tariff `1,430-3,575; TE Restaurant, p r a d e s h p r a d e s h TE Taxes extra Hotel Elysium Facilities

Location Nr DC Office, NH 229, Main room service, TV ANINI STD 03801 09402024536 (DFO) Rooms 4 Tariff Road Tel 223156 Rooms 15 Tariff Belly Lodge `1,000 Facilities Kitchen, caretaker, `1,900-3,900 Facilities Restaurant, Samurai Lodge Location Main Town, Adjacent to food on request, attached bath room service, power backup, TV Location Main Market Cell 094360 Circuit House Cell 09612744941 Tariff 96227 Rooms 6 Tariff `600 Facilities a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l `1,000 Facilities Kitchen, cook and Inspection Bungalow Hotel Hill Plaza Lodging only, attached bath, TV caretaker, food on request Location 100 mtr from Circuit House Location Main Market Cell 097744 Cell 09402024536 Rooms 3 Tariff 30499, 09436221328 Rooms 6 Tariff DIRANG STD 03780 IN ALINEY `250 for Govt officials, `2,000 `1,500 Facilities Restaurant, TV Gonpalok Homestay Aliney Tourist Lodge Facilities Caretaker, food on request, Location Rungkhung Cell 087310 Location Aliney LG Cell 094366 attached bath Hotel Nambrog 39556, 09774531176 Rooms 6 Tariff 53181, 09402659633 Rooms 3 wooden Location Near PWD Garage, NH 229, `1,500-2,500 Facilities Meals on prior l i s t i n g s cottages (12 bedded) `1,200 BOMDILA STD 03782 Near Petrol Pump 07640911988 request, attached bath, TV l i s t i n g s

Tariff Cell Facilities Kitchen, cook and caretaker, Anu Homestay Rooms 15 Tariff `1,500-2,700 food on request, attached bath Location Sera Road, Near BSNL Facilities Restaurant, room service Hotel Dirang Resort h o t e l Office Cell 08729895222 Rooms 5 Location Near Medical Ground Cell h o t e l Ranli Lodge Tariff `1,100-1,300 Facilities Meals Hotel Siphiyang Phong 07630806446, 09436238290 Rooms 4 Location Arzoo Circle, Ranli Cell on prior request, attached bath, geyser Location Main Road Tel 222286 Tariff `1,200 Facilities Kitchen, TV 09436875102, 09366709589, 089742 W hotelsiphiyangphong.com Rooms 99357 Rooms 3 Tariff `500 per person Atisha Guest House 24 Tariff `1,300-5,000; TE Facilities Hotel Pemaling Facilities Kitchen, attached bath Location Main Market Tel 222254 Restaurant, parking, room service Location Near petrol pump, Narang- Cell 09402454991 Rooms 12 Tariff chilo, PO Dirang, West Kameng Dist IN HUNLI STD 03803 `1,800-2,500 Facilities Meals on prior Hotel Tashi Den Cell 08258919962 W hotelpemaling. Circuit House request, TV Location Near SBI Tel 223856 Cell com Rooms 26 Tariff `2,000-5,000 Location Hunli Town, 90 km from Roing Note: No room service, guests have 09402474304 Rooms 10 Tariff `1,000- Facilities Restaurant, room service Cell 09402024536 Rooms 6 Tariff to come to the dining hall. 1,200 Facilities Room service, TV `250 for Govt officials, `2,000, others Hotel Snow Lion Facilities Caretaker, food on request Dhe Dhen Gakhyil homestay Hotel Tsepal Yangjom Location Main Market Cell Location Near GRL Monastery Tel Location Near Himalayan Holidays, 08414995556 Rooms 27 Tariff Eze Breeze Tower frh 222757 Rooms 7 Tariff `1,900-3,500 Main Bazaar Line Tel 223473, 223674 `1,500-1,800 Facilities Basic accom- Location Hunli Town Cell Facilities Restaurant, room service, TV W hoteltsepalyangjom.in Rooms 24 modation, meals on prior request

156 157 h o t e l l i s t i n g s a r u n a c h a l p r a d e s h t o p t e n 78112 16 Kameng District Kameng com 46566, 07629841995 46566, 800 158 2211289 Location Hotel Anne 2277253 0360-2277321, Location (RGU) House Guest University Gandhi Rajiv Rooms Location TouristTourismArunachal Lodge Location Retreat Norphel Location Lodge Birding Facilities Location Homestay Lanjom in lities attached bath attached Restaurant, room service room Restaurant, 01174 09999030436, 09911336281 09999030436, meals 08729906143 Rooms Tariff Facilities Rooms Restaurant, travel help, parking help, travel Restaurant, Delhi Reservations Cell Reservations Delhi Rooms Rooms 4

Cell `800-2,000 IT Sector C, Bank Tinali Bank C, Sector Rono pump petrol Near Rungkhung West Dirang, from km 22 Sangti Village Meals on prior request, prior on Meals 34 Tariff ANAGAR 4 09366706847 Tariff Mess, room service, TV service, room Mess, W 2 21, suites 4 suites 21, DOIMUKH Tariff

ills, Doimukh Hills, arunachaltourism.com `1,200 W Tariff eaglenestbirding.

`2,500-7,000 0360 STD

Facilities 5,500; TE, with TE, `5,500; W Cell

`1,500 norphelretreat. Facilities Cell Cell 087310 Tariff birding Rooms Cell 082589 094026 Tel

Tel

`500-

Faci-

09856042962 23 Main Ganga Market Ganga Main C Ganga Internet, laundry,TV Internet, service, room Restaurant, Internet, room service, TV service, room Internet, Restaurant, 2212042, 2214204, 2211377 2214204, 2212042, 08732075315 Rooms Location Pine Blue Hotel Rooms 2212806 2212677, Location Hotel Subansiri Arun Note: Tel Location Kosing Hotel Location Ashok Polo Donyi Hotel Location Dawn-Land Hotel Note: group.com Restaurant, room service, geyser,service, room TV Restaurant, 7,500; TE 7,500; bath 2,500 ties ties 800, room with attached bath attached with room `800, Tel Tariff 2213074 Restaurant, Internet, geyser, Internet, TV Restaurant, laundry,Restaurant, service room 2212626-27/ 31 2212626-27/ Facilities A few A 4 Tel 32 26

` rooms C Sector, Pump C Petrol Near Near APST Bus Station, Bus APST Near Tinali Point, Zero Near All India Radio, Sector Radio, India All Near Market, Deep Akash Near 1,200-2,500; TE 1,200-2,500; Facilities 2291756, 2291707 2291707 2291756, Tariff Tariff Rooms Cell rooms Rooms W Restaurant, bar Restaurant, with common bath common with hotelbluepine.in 07005110512

`600-2,500 `1,900-2,700 19 Cell Restaurant, bar,Restaurant, Tel have a common a have 7 W Tariff 09485227372 2211118, Tariff theashok Facilities Tel

Cell `4,650- Facili-

`2,100- Cell Rooms Facili-

09436075875 52A) (NH Tinali Vihar Vivek C, Sector College, Secretariat 98862 (ADC) 98862 28574 com com Facilities Location House Circuit Tel Location Hotel WaiiInternational Facilities Location TodoHotel Facilities Location TsangpoHotel Facilities Location Continental SC Hotel Facilities Cell Location Pybss Hotel 15,000 national.com 09774674323 com 2291471-73, 2008002 2291471-73, 07085873975 Rooms Rooms Rooms Tel Rooms Facilities JAIRAMPUR Kitchen, cook food on request request on food cook Kitchen, Jairampur TownJairampur Near State Museum/ Gompa Museum/ State Near Sector,Gate B Mithin Near Bank Road, VIP Marg, T T Polytechnic Old Near Sector,D Civil Near Restaurant, bar,TV Restaurant, Internet, TV service, room Restaurant, bar,TV Restaurant, Internet, Internet gym, Restaurant, 2290724-25 Tel Tel 20 23 45 Rooms Rooms 2291875 2290347 2291875 W W 32 2292114, 2292178 2292114, hoteltodoitanagar. hotelsccontinental. Tariff Tariff Tariff pwd Restaurant, Internet Restaurant, Tariff W 8 03800 STD 61 pybsshotel.

Cell `3,500-4,950 `3,600-9,500 `3,800-7,000 Tariff

`1,344-2,688 Tariff Cell W 087877 spa

waiiinter ` 070859 070859 500 500

Cell `5,500- Cell

98862 (ADC) 98862 Rooms Location Homestay Heritage Almost Facilities Rooms Location TouristLodge Facilities Rooms Location Gyaboo’sTraditional Lodge Location House Coffee Mayudiya Rooms Location (IB) Bungalow Inspection Tariff Location House Guest Facilities Location Bungalow Inspection Forest 09774748828 cook, food on request, TV request, on food cook, Meals on prior request, 3 request, prior on Meals Lodging, food on request on food Lodging, ties common bath common herit Meals provided on prior request prior on provided Meals

age `500-1,500 8 6 20 6 MECHUKA Kitchen, cook, food on request request on food cook, Kitchen, MA Mechuka Mechuka Mechuka Roing from km 52 Mayudia TownJairampur TownJairampur Lodging, food on request on food Lodging, Dining area, attached bath attached area, Dining Tariff Tariff Tariff Tariff YUDIA Rooms Rooms

`

`800-1,200 `1,500 1,500-3,600, with meals meals with 1,500-3,600,

`1,000-3,000 Facilities Tel 03801 STD 03783 STD Cell Cell Cell 2 8 09774748828 Tariff Facilities 09402889576 09436600764 09436074877 Tariff rooms Rooms Cell Kitchen, Facilities Cell

`1,500

`1,500 070859 Facili- have

8

159

h o t e l l i s t i n g s a r u n a c h a l p r a d e s h t o p t e n h o t e l l i s t i n g s a r u n a c h a l p r a d e s h t o p t e n 87287, 07641019177 (Circle Officer)(Circle 07641019177 87287, Behind TomoridaBehind Miao (ADC) com Kitchen, cook, food on request on food cook, Kitchen, 800-1,000; TE `800-1,000; -1,500 (foreigners) per bed per (foreigners) -1,500 160 2351022 Location Residency Barapani Hotel Rooms Location Ama Achi Hotel Rooms Cell Location Raj Hotel Rooms Location House Circuit 03786 STD KHONSA In Location TouristEco House Guest Forest Location House Circuit Kitchen, food on request, caretakerrequest, on food Kitchen, TE ties service room help, travel Restaurant, 41614, 08257994436 41614, Facilities Restaurant, room service, TV service, room Restaurant, 08732806289, 08730074708 08732806289, Rooms Cell Rooms NAHARLAGUN 10 16 4 VVIP 8, Miao TownMiao W Near Spun Pipe Factory Pipe Spun Near Sector,Road, B Nagar Prem Cinema TownKhonsa Upper Colony Engineering 09436228763, 089741 09436228763, Tariff MIAO hotelbarapaniresidency. Tariff 15 Basic accommodation, TV accommodation, Basic 4 Facilities Tariff

Tariff

` 03807 STD Hospital `1,000-1,500 Tariff 500-1,000 all Road, Tirap Road, Hall Cell Rooms

0360 STD `2,000-2,450; `600

Cell 1,000 (Indian) `1,000 09436229607 09436229607 Restaurant Tel Facilities 070869 Facilities Facilities 4 2350988 Facili- Tariff Tel

500 for Govt Officials, Govt for `500 Near TeenNear Stadium Bridge `990-1,680 09856027234 2,000 TE travel help, room service, TV service, room help, travel travel help, room service, TV service, room help, travel Restaurant, travel help, room service, TV service, room help, travel Restaurant, Rooms Location Rajhans Hotel Tel Location Street Court Hotel Location Chandini Hotel Location TosumHotel Rooms Location House Guest State Location Inn View River Hotel Tel Location Rajdhani Hotel Caretaker can prepare food on request on preparefood can Caretaker `1,680-4,500 Tip Facilities 2350570 2350577 Mainly for Govt Officials. Officials. Govt for Mainly Facilities Tel 22 4 Tel Barapani Bazaar,Barapani D, Sect Sector,D Near Sector,Gandhi E Rajiv Opp Sector A Sector Sector D Barapani Near 52A, NH Sector,Mandir E Kali Near Tariff athi Chowk Hathi Tariff 2351080, 2350064 2351080, Facilities 2350776 Restaurant, room service room Restaurant, Rooms Rooms Facilities Rooms

Basic accommodation, Basic

`1,000 ` 900-1,800 Tel Cell 9 13 Restaurant, 19 Rooms Restaurant, TV Restaurant, 2247228 Tariff 1,000 others `1,000 spa Facilities 09402690313 Tel Tariff igh Court High Tariff 2244400 2244400 Facilities

35 `2,500;

Cell `1,000-

Tariff Tariff

food on request request on food Church peak season, so book 2 weeks ahead weeks 2 book so season, peak the are Spring and Autumn monsoons. 08729838030 trekking, bird watching, tribal visit tribal watching, birdtrekking, guides, request, on food area, 08257994436 262228 Facilities Location House Circuit Cell Location Camp Jungle Namdapha Rooms Location House Rest Forest DEBAN IN Tariff Location Hotel YT Facilities Rooms taurant, Internet, travel help, TV help, travel Internet, taurant, 5, suites 2 suites 5, 1,800; TE 1,800; Reserve room (plus surcharge)(plus room treks Tip 09436228763, 08974141614, 09436228763, Not approachable during approachable Not NAMDAPHA

`1,700-4,130

4, dorms 1 dorms 4, 17 Tel Cell Email birding Kitchen, cook, attached bath attached cook, Kitchen, Namsai TownNamsai Tiger Namdapha Deban, 7 km from NP entry gate entry NP from km 7 Sector,E Town Near Baptist Restaurant, TV Restaurant, NAMSAI Facilities Tariff Tariff 2351477, 2351424 2351477, 09958933945 (DC) 09958933945 [email protected] [email protected] Rooms 03807 STD W

` ythotel.in

1,500, suites 1,500, `1,344-2,352 NA 03806 STD Tariff Kitchen, dining Kitchen, Facilities P TIONAL Facilities 6 Tel ` Tariff 300/- per per 300/- Rooms 03806- frh Res- ` ARK

Kitchen, Kitchen, `1,500- 2,400 2,400 Cell Rooms

47

09436093632 (Range Officer) (Range 09436093632 West Bank forest Rest forest Bank West Rest Forest Bank West to kessang 2, dorms 1 (6 bedded) (6 1 dorms 2, 2 (8 bedded) (8 `300 on request, caretakerrequest, on Location Bungalow Inspection Facilities Location House Rest Forest Khari Cell Location Resort Eco Pagoda Golden Cell Location House Rest Forest Location Camp Jungle Pakke Namsai food on request, caretaker caretakerrequest, on food 09436093632 (Range Officer) (Range 09436093632 dorm per bed per dorm 09436042859 tions dorms 5 (4 bedded each) bedded (4 5 dorms 88362 Reservations suites 03282 Tariff 09436042859 09436635664 Facilities ` DFO Rooms Rooms 3,000, dorm per bed per dorm 3,000,

Cell `400 P Cell Noi Chenam, Tengapani,Chenam, Noi TIGER AKKE Restaurant, attached bath attached Restaurant, Inside the forest, 12 km from km 12 forest, the Inside adjacent Forest, the Inside Colony Forest Mabusa 1, Seijusa, Pakke Seijusa, 1, Mabusa Tariff Tel 08730081650, 094027 094027 08730081650, 09436200628, 070861 09436200628, Facilities 8 cottages, suites 4, 4, suites cottages, 8 4 cottages 4 `100 DFO Kitchen, cook Kitchen, 03778-200016

600, dorms per bed per dorms `600, Rooms Facilities Tel For Reserva- For RESERVE House Tariff Kitchen, food Kitchen, 03778-200016 Tel Tariff House Tariff 5, dorms 1 dorms 5, For `

262223 600 600 `400, Cell Rooms Rooms Kitchen,

Cell `

2,500, 2,500, Cell

161

h o t e l l i s t i n g s a r u n a c h a l p r a d e s h t o p t e n h o t e l l i s t i n g s a r u n a c h a l p r a d e s h t o p t e n 76281, 08413833453 76281, NH52 Gate the 2 400, cottages `400, dining hall, attached bath in VIP in bath attached hall, dining attached bath attached caretaker,request, on service, room `1,000-2,500 162 Contact Tariff Location House Circuit Location TouristKund Parsuram Bhavan Reservations For Location House Rest ForestWest Bank Tel Location House Rest Dekoroi Upper meals with TE `4,000; 09612249408 tours village walks, nature guided drives, game safaris/ guided taurant, 09612249408, 09612561722 09612249408, 09436093632 (Range Officer) (Range 09436093632 200016 Officer) cook, food on request on food cook, Kitchen, food on request, caretakerrequest, on food Kitchen, 2,000 for Private for `2,000 Tariff 03778-200016

500-1,000 for Govt officials, Govt for `500-1,000 Cell `400 Rooms Cell

Cell arnam Singh, Harnam Bridge, Kund Parsuram to Close Forest the Inside Forest the Inside P P igh Region Area Region High 08974878398, 094026 08974878398, ASIGHA ARSHURAM 09436042859 Facilities Facilities 09436093632 (Range 09436093632 For Reservations For `600 4, cottages 2 cottages 4, Facilities T Cell DFO 0368 STD Facilities Rooms Facilities Bookings Kitchen, food Kitchen, KUND 09436042859 Kitchen, cook, Kitchen, Cell Tel Cell Kitchen, Cell 03778- Rooms

10 Rooms Tariff

rooms

Res-

Tariff DFO

8

09862911689, 09402474991 09862911689, 52, 5 km from Pasighat from km 5 52, 07005645929 cook, food on request on food cook, food on request on food arnam Singh, Harnam Restaurant, Internet, room service, TV service, room Internet, Restaurant, 09436621222 (Range Officer) (Range 09436621222 Location Aane Hotel Tariff Location House Rest Forest Facilities Rooms Cell Location Resort Hango Donyi Location Homestay Narmi Tariff Location Bungalow Inspection Location Siang Hotel Tariff Tel 09436639648 1,700 Centre, TownCentre, Area 09612249408, 09612561722 09612249408, [email protected] for Private for 2222777 09436043393, 07005586217 09436043393,

` Facilities 360 for Govt officials, Govt for `360 TE `1,400-2,300; 400-1,200 7 tents 7 Near Asha Diagnostic Diagnostic Asha Near Banskota, Pasighat Bazaar Pasighat Banskota, NH TeboSiang, East Village, Runne Village Village Runne Market Main Kitchen, dining room dining Kitchen, igh Region Area Region High Facilities Cell Rooms Rooms Cell Tariff Kitchen with cook with Kitchen Bookings Contact Bookings Facilities 09863348385, Tel 09612249408 Kitchen, cook, Kitchen,

28 2 suites 17, `2,200-3,000 2222210 Cell Tel Facilities tens Cell Tariff Kitchen, Kitchen, 222324

Rooms Cell Rooms

Email Rooms `1,200 Cell

`600-

4 1

4 Caretaker can prepare food on request on preparefood can Caretaker Restaurant, attached bath, hot water hot bath, attached Restaurant, Location WestHotel Facilities Rooms Location ToshiHotel Palace Tel Location Aagam Hotel Rooms Location House Circuit 03783 STD ALONG IN 2222382 Location Abode Serene The Tariff Location House Guest Siang Facilities Tariff suites 3 suites 12 sereneabodehotel.com Singh, 09612249408, 09612561722 09612249408, cook 2,000 for Private for `2,000 900-1,500 (Foreigners) 900-1,500 Tariff 223640 Tel Bookings Contact Bookings

500-1,000 for Govt officials, Govt for `500-1,000 meals 2 with person per `1,500 Cell 13 13 Tariff

222838 Cell `800-1,200 Medical Road Medical TransportState Opp Office, Aalo Paktu, Chowk, Nehru office DC Near Siang East Banskota, Restaurant area dining Kitchen, igh Region Area Region High 09612249408 Tariff Tariff Cell 07005087986

`2,950-5,310 09436696028

Cell `700-1,800 (Indians) 1,000 `600- Facilities Facilities 09436056379 Facilities Rooms Tel

Tel arnam Harnam Kitchen, 222411 Cell W Rooms 222221 the

Rooms 16, Tel

7

taker can prepare food on prior request prior on preparefood can taker Restaurant, Internet, room service room Internet, Restaurant, `1,300-2,000 [email protected] room service, attached bath, TV bath, attached service, room Location Hotel MIMU Facilities Cell Location Winds Siwundi Hotel 03803-222678 Location Resort & Hotel DS Rooms Location House Circuit Rooms Location IB PWD Cell 1, traditional 1, dorms 1 (10 bedded) (10 1 dorms 2,500, dorm bed dorm 2,500, 1,500 Riverside request, attached bath attached request, caretaker,and on cook food Kitchen, 11959, 09774048395 11959, suites tourism.com 900-1,500 (Foreigners) 900-1,500 09862857330 07627965913 ` Facilities 2,240, traditional 2,240, 9 11 Lower Dibang ValleyDibang Lower Cell Ezengo Village, Dev Pani Pani Dev Village, Ezengo Restaurant, laundry,Restaurant, TV Lower Market Lower Town office DC Near Tariff ROING Tariff rooms Rooms 08258889023, 087328 087328 08258889023, Facilities Cell

Restaurant, Internet, Internet, Restaurant, Cell `1,000 `

600- 1,000 (Indians) 1,000 `600- 500 03803 STD 09436048161 Rooms W 4 09612744941 40 Tariff Rooms arunachal Facilities Tariff Facilities Restaurant Facilities rooms Tariff Tel Rooms Tel

` 28

1,600- ` 222698 9, suites suites 9, 1,344, 1,344, 222221 e Tel

`500- Tariff

` 9, 9, 2,744 2,744 Care- Email

163

h o t e l l i s t i n g s a r u n a c h a l p r a d e s h t o p t e n h o t e l l i s t i n g s a r u n a c h a l p r a d e s h t o p t e n River Kameng ties 164 Cell Location Homestay YulChhen Pema Rooms Location YeshiHomestay Facilities Location YangdolHomestay Rooms Cell Location Homestay Khaje Room Cell Location Homestay Dirkhipa Rooms Cell Location Homestay Bham BHALUKPONG service, geyser,service, heater, bath attached parking, geyser,parking, heater, bath attached service, room hall, dining Kitchen, parking, geyser,parking, heater, bath common service, room hall, dining Kitchen, dining hall, geyser,hall, bath dining attached 09402928011 Kitchen, dining hall, room service room hall, dining Kitchen, 08729930222, 09436635835 09436635835 08729930222, 08729930222, 09436635835 08729930222, 09436635835 08729930222, 09436635835 08729930222, Cell 2 3 3 2 Cell Tariff Thembang Village, Dirang Dirang Village, Thembang Thembang Village, Dirang Village, Thembang Kameng Near Village, Tipi West Rupa, Village, Jigaon Dirang Village, Thembang Dirang Village, Thembang Kitchen, dining hall, room hall, dining Kitchen, 08415850764, 08731978022 08415850764, Tariff Tariff Tariff 09402071593, Homest Rooms

`

700 `1,000 `700 `1,300-1,600 Facilities a 2 Facilities ys Facilities Tariff Kitchen, Kitchen,

Facili- `1,000

Namsai Siang Namsai cuisine, vehicles for sightseeing for vehicles cuisine, common bath common dining hall, parking, geyser,parking, hall, heater dining Location Homestay Hewli Tariff Location Homestay Greenview NAMSAI Rooms Tariff Location Homestay Gumin K Location Homestay Gumin Ane P Facilities Location Homestay Sangtini Kitchen, dining hall, common bath common hall, dining Kitchen, drop, common bath common drop, 09436053509, 08729989123 09436053509, person, with two meals two with person, Kitchen, vehicle for sightseeing for vehicle Kitchen, meals 04048 49977 91784 Namsai meals asighat791102 STD

Cell 3,000 with all meals all with `3,000 1,600 per person, with two with person, per `1,600 Facilities Facilities Rooms Rooms Rooms 2 Cell Cell Cell Behind Buddhist Monastery,Buddhist Behind behind Village Mebo, Romdum Mebo, Village East Pasighat, Mirbu, Tigra Monastery,Buddhist Behind Kitchen, parking, pic and and pic parking, Kitchen, `1,000 07005059493, 087319 07005059493, 08794089075, 093666 08794089075, 094360 09862708997, 09436637187 3 2 2 Kitchen, traditional Kitchen, Kitchen, dining hall, dining Kitchen, Tariff Tariff Tariff Facilities igher Secondary,Higher

2,500 with two with `2,500 1,600 per `1,600 `2,500-3,000 Facilities Kitchen, Rooms Facilities Rooms

Cell 2 2

33767, 084248 02002 084248 33767, Siang 52 1,600 per person, with two meals two with person, per `1,600 meals two with person, per `1,800 1,500 per person, with all meals all with person, per `1,500 07005586217 Location Camp ValleyJungle Dibang 03803 STD ROING Facilities Location Stay Home Ori 03783 STD ALONG Cell Location TuniyangHomestay Location Homestay Pineapple Location TakarHomestay Facilities Cell Location Homestay Narmi Facilities Cell Location Homestay Nana hall, room service, attached bath attached service, room hall, bath common service, 3,000 Tel 09436057717 09862911689 07085858003 Cell Facilities 222324 12 km to Miuliati, Lower Miuliati, to km 12 Village Ori Takilalung, Village Pasighat East Pasighat, Napit, Village NH TeboSiang, East Village, Siang East Village, Runne Takilalung, Village Pasighat Kitchen, local guide, dining guide, local Kitchen, room hall, dining Kitchen, bath common Kitchen, 09862571827 Rooms Cell Kitchen, dining room dining Kitchen, Rooms Rooms 09436043393, Cell 4 Rooms Tariff 076389 2 2 Tariff Tariff 8

`2,800- Tariff

main Ziro Town)Ziro main Roing from 17km `1,500-2,000 Dibang ValleyDibang attached bath attached geyser,hall, dining request, on heaters, bath attached hall, dining request, on room service, attached bath, TV bath, attached service, room 09402054057 09856209494 Facilities Cell Location Stay Home Lemberdung `2,500-3,500 meals tents meals, all with Location Ziro Ngunu 03788 STD ZIRO Tariff Location Home Villa Jambey TAWANG03794 STD Location Camp Artist – Notko Zaktum Rooms 09733000442 heater,bath attached geyser,hall, dining request, on food geyser,heater, bath attached 2,000 per person, with two meals two with person, per 2,000 08414987117, 09436045988 08414987117, Tip 09436051009 Also called Dambuk called Also

`1,800-3,000 Facilities 4, tents 6 tents 4, Siro Village, Ziro (3 kms from kms (3 Ziro Village, Siro Tawangfrom km 8 Market kms) (4 Urgelling Valley,Dibang Lower Bomjir, Kitchen, dining hall, parking. hall, dining Kitchen, Facilities Facilities Rooms Rooms Tel W Restaurant, laundry,Restaurant, helptourism.net Cell 0353-2433683 Cell Tariff Rooms Facilities 3,500; TE with all with TE `3,500; 09436047891, 6 cottages 6 2 08258829810, Kitchen, food Kitchen, food Kitchen,

Tariff 5,000; TE `5,000; Homestay 3 Cell Rooms Tariff Kitchen,

`1,200-

Tariff Cell

165 6

h o t e l l i s t i n g s a r u n a c h a l p r a d e s h t o p t e n h o t e l l i s t i n g s a r u n a c h a l p r a d e s h t o p t e n 09774949532, 09436669097 09774949532, 09436637208 Market Ground Parade service, TV service, 166 Contact Facilities 222041 Location House Rest Forest Tariff Location House Circuit Note: Location Inn Bumla Rooms Location Bungalow Inspection KHEEL IN Tariff Location Bungalow Inspection Facilities Location Circuit taker can prepare meals on request on preparemeals can taker 08794494422 Caretaker,bath attached 2,500 (Foreigners)

` Facilities `1,000-2,000 300 (Govt), 300 ouse (PWD) House 2 Tel 5 Rooms Caretaker rooms SAGALEE T Near Circuit Near Agency,Gas Near Old General Near Market, Old Kheel Sagalee Cona, Sagalee Cona, Caretaker can preparemeals can Caretaker Caretaker, bath attached Tariff AWANG 224580, 222221 224580, Facilities Rooms Rooms Cell 600 Restaurant, room Restaurant, have common bath common have 4 Cell ` Tariff 600 (Indian), 600 03794 STD 03809 STD Cell Facilities 08729902020, Facilities 09774143587 Kitchen, caretaker caretaker Kitchen, 8 4 House 08258000565 Tariff Tariff

pwd pwd `700-1,000 Cell Cell Rooms Rooms Care-

Tel

`1,500- `900 ` 900 900 12 4 1,500-3,900; TE `1,500-3,900; Road dolmahotels.com bar,help travel discotheque, `1,000-1,500 09436252319, 09436051011 09436252319, Location House Guest Khangsar Dolma Cell Location Buddha Hotel Contact Facilities 222041 Location Jang Lodge Eco Forest Location Paradise Mon Hotel Facilities Rooms Location Gorichen Hotel Location Zhang Khang Gakyi Hotel Location Chhinkar Dolma Hotel `1,750-3,250 `1,750-2,450 attached bath attached 48 222039 W dolmahotels.com W 09436872954 gkztawang.com Tel 13 Rooms Cell Caretaker Near Monastery,Near Gompa Lane Bazaar Old WaterfallJang Near Nehru Market Nehru Market Old Office DC Near Market Old Basic accommodation, Basic Caretaker can preparemeals can Caretaker 223271 Tariff 09436825931 Facilities Facilities Facilities 4

Facilities `1,000-1,500 Cell Rooms Tariff Rooms Cell Rooms Rooms 09436252319 Tel Tel Restaurant Restaurant Restaurant

08258000565 `700-1,000 Tel 12 224151 223271 Tel 8 Restaurant, Tel 14 222443, W Tariff Tariff 27 224647- Tel

222954 Tariff Tariff Cell

Market 09436875279, 08258852232 09436875279, Meals provided on request on provided Meals Restaurant, heater/ geysers, TV geysers, heater/ Restaurant, accommodation, room service room accommodation,

13 Location Star ZAX Hotel Tariff 222030 Location TawangHotel Holiday Facilities Rooms Location Siddhartha Hotel Location Samdrup-Ling Hotel Cell Location Nefa Hotel Tel Location View Mount Hotel Tariff rant, Internet, heaters, geysers, TV geysers, heaters, Internet, rant, 8 hoteltawangholidays.com 3,500 09862220859, 07085221885 09862220859, weebly.com W Tariff hotelmonparadise.com Tariff 224304 09436417492

Facilities `1,550-2,550 TE `2,300-3,850;

Tel 7 Cell 1,550-2,000; TE `1,550-2,000;

`1,200-1,500 Craft Centre Colony Centre Craft Market Old SBI, Opp Nehru Office, NHPC Opp Market Old Market Nehru Market Nehru Road, Main Restaurant Tariff 222515 Cell Rooms 08794554003

Restaurant, TV Restaurant, 07642829448 `1,500-1,800 W Cell Facilities 15 hotelnefa. Cell Facilities Facilities 09436635998 Tariff Tel Facilities Rooms Rooms

W 222419 Rooms Rooms

Restau- `800- Cell Rooms Tel Basic

13 19

09402066004, 08415075199 09402066004, Old Bazaar Old Restaurant, parking, hot water,hot parking, TV Restaurant, monyullodgetawang.in Restaurant, geyser,TV Restaurant, service, room Fast Facts page 168 page Facts Fast 11 07085387522, 08415058747 07085387522, 09862367006 tourism.com Location House Guest Forest Tariff Location Lodge Duda Location House Circuit Reservations Metro Location TouristLodge Location TawangInn Tariff Tel Location Lodge Monyul 29 Restaurant, parking, power backup power parking, Restaurant, `600-2,000 `200 bedded) Tariff Tariff 222196

Facilities

` `1,000-3,000 700-1,100

Tariff Near Circuit Near 1,000-2,500; TE `1,000-2,500; `2,000-4,000 Inside Botanical Garden, Botanical Inside Lohit Near TelephoneNear Exchange, Market Nehru TaxiNear Market, Stand Old TEZU Tel Facilities Cell Rooms Rooms

Kitchen, caretaker Kitchen, 2,000, dorm per bed per dorm `2,000, 222359 09402910061 Facilities 03804 STD Facilities 30 ouse, Lohit House, Restaurant House 8, dorms 1 (10 1 dorms 8, See Itanagar See Facilities Rooms W Tariff Cell arunachal Caretaker Facilities Rooms Cell

Rooms

14 W

Cell

10 10 167

h o t e l l i s t i n g s a r u n a c h a l p r a d e s h t o p t e n h o t e l l i s t i n g s a r u n a c h a l p r a d e s h t o p t e n 08974655222, 08974755777 08974655222, 08256974014 Lohit Restaurant, gym, room service room gym, Restaurant, laundry, travel help, room service, TV service, laundry,room help, travel bath attached service, room 23, suites 2, dorms 3 (15 bedded) (15 3 dorms 2, suites 23, 18 168 224610 Location Hotels Shivam Facilities Tariff Location TabokaHotel 222776 03804 Location Oshin Hotel Location Highway Hotel Location Highway Hotel & India East Hotel Rooms Cell Kitchen, caretaker,TV request,Kitchen, on food travel help, room service, TV service, room help, travel 09435035802, 07085203007 09435035802, 1,500 700 1,999 08415090334 08837408667 07085203007, 09435035802, Tariff 08131891484, 09436289478 08131891484, Facilities

Tel Facilities Facilities 600-2,500, dorm bed dorm `600-2,500, 3 Cell

`600-1,000 222258, 222256, 223795 222256, 222258, Gandhi Market, TezuMarket, Gandhi Road Medical TezuRoad, Bazaar Main TezuRoad Main tower Airtel Near Restaurant, Internet, laundry, Internet, Restaurant, Tariff 08259812324, Restaurant, TV Restaurant, Rooms Rooms Rooms Cell

Restaurant, Internet, Internet, Restaurant, geyser,Restaurant, `500-1,200 09612540933, Facilities 15 17 15 Cell Tariff Tariff Tariff Cell Cell Facilities

Rooms Rooms `200

Tel `600- `450- `999-

Tel

09436058103 Station ground `600-1,000 09402475260 attached bath attached on request, attached bath attached request, on 09402617428 Location YingkiongHouse Circuit Rooms Cell Location House Circuit Tariff Location Bungalow Inspection Cell Location Palzor Hotel Location Libang Hotel Tariff Location Baap Hotel Kitchen, cook, attached bath attached cook, Kitchen, 1,500 (Foreigners) (Indians), bed per not all not cook, Kitchen, Facility (Foreigners) bed 09436256133, 09774251346 09436256133, 09402820009

Facilities 300 per bed (Indians), bed per `300 `800-1,200 rooms Tel 5 Cell YINGKIONG Upper market Opp Police Opp market Upper Tutingof area town Main Forest Colony Forest Airfield near Market Lower SBI Opp Market, Upper general near Market Upper Tariff TUING 03777-222228 Facilities 09402715071 Facilities attached with bath with attached Rooms Rooms Rooms

Restaurant, TV Restaurant, `1,000 Facilities 1,500 per bed per `1,500 03799 STD Rooms 03777 STD Lodging, food Lodging, 6 4, suites 1 suites 4, 10 Kitchen, cook, Kitchen, Facilities Tariff Cell Tariff Cell 7 Rooms Restaurant

Tariff 600 per `600

`1,000

`600-

Cell 7

08415895451 08732019469, 08415016332, 2,500-3,000 dorm per bed per dorm `2,500-3,000 Subansiri, which 10 are let out to the DC the to out let are 10 which Note: TariffNote: Location House Circuit Facilities Rooms Location House Guest Arunachal Facilities Rooms Location WakroEco-Resort ` meals on request on meals Note: They have 17 have They Note: Govt Officials, and Officials, Govt W Facilities ➔ arunachalipr.gov.in 7 bedded) (5 1 dorms 4, R Lower Subansiri Lower Lower Office, DC Behind Lohit Chongkham, Restaurant, attached bath attached Restaurant, bath attached Kitchen, Hapoli oute Planner Legend Planner oute Tariff Caretaker can preparecan Caretaker Other Places Other Places Main Destination TrainRoute InternationalBoundary Boundary State Road Number NH Highway National ZIRO

1,000 for Arunachali for `1,000 W WAKRO

wakroecoresort.in 800-1,500; TE `800-1,500; 03788 STD Cell 1,500 for others for `1,500 rooms 08794668775 Rooms Tel , out of out , `600 Cell 6 224255 Tariff Tariff

lities Meals on request, attached bath attached request, on Meals alcoholic bar,alcoholic library 09615239954 2251123 Location Resort Siiro Tariff Location Pine Blue Hotel Rooms Location Inn Palace Ziro Location Homestay Dogindo resort.com 3,500 Hapoli 09774306367 per person, with two meals two with person, per 59529 Music Festival Ground, Biirii Village Village Biirii Ground, Festival Music Restaurant, room service room Restaurant,

` Facilities W Tel 1,320-4,000 10 hotelbluepine.in Lower Subansiri Dist, Opp Ziro Ziro Opp Dist, Subansiri Lower Cell Near Pai Gate, Quarry Line, Line, Quarry Gate, Pai Near Siiro Village, PO Village, Siiro

ari Village, Old Ziro Old Village, Hari 224812, 225223 224812, Tariff Rooms 08014050952 W Rooms National Park/WLSNational Park/WLSNational Sanctuary Bird Temple Camp Fort Airport Station Railway Ferry ziro palaceinn.com palaceinn.com ziro Restaurant, non- Restaurant,

` 2,499-7,000 10 Facilities 5 Tariff Tariff Rooms Cell Hapoli Facilities Restaurant

W `1,200- Faci-

siiro `1,200, 080140 080140 Cell 30 30 Cell Tel

169

h o t e l l i s t i n g s a r u n a c h a l p r a d e s h t o p t e n TOURIST OFFICES t e n t e n

PERMITS In f o r m a t i o n In f o r m a t i o n & Bo o k i n g t o p t o p

Travel Permits for IndianTravellers Apply for ILPs online here: Arunachal Tourism METRO/ CITY OFFICES NEW DELHI Though an Inner Line Permit (ILP) is www.arunachalilp.com W arunachaltourism.com GUWAHATI Department of mandatory for Indian citizens to enter p r a d e s h p r a d e s h Arunachal Pradesh, getting it is a simpler

Department of Tourism Travel Permits for Foreign Travellers ITANAGAR Tourism Arunachal Bhawan, process than it is for foreigners, and with Foreign tourists in groups of 2 or Department of GS Road, Rukmani Kautilya Marg, fewer restricted areas. Every district in more (single for travel to Tawang Tourism Village, Opp Mansa Chanakyapuri, New Arunachal Pradesh has a similar admini- and Ziro) need to apply for a Protected Govt. of Arunachal Mandir, Dispur, Assam Delhi strative structure. Above the village and , which costs US$30 a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l Areas Permit (PAP) Pradesh, Itanagar Tel 0361-2229506 Tel 011-23013915, local authorities are Circle Officers, Addi- (valid for 30 days). You’d need to apply Cell 08787619774 Cell 7086026788 23013956 tional Divisional Commissioners (ADC) in for these through local tour operators. the bigger villages and towns, and PAP is issued from the following offices Tour OPERATORS above that the Divisional Commissioner to foreign travellers: (DC). It helps to decide on the districts 1. Ministry of Home Affairs, o p e r a t o r s

BOMDILA STD 03782 09436044905 W PASIGHAT STD 0368 you are likely to visit while planning your Government of India, New Delhi Himalayan Holidays arunachaltours.com DONYI HANGO TOURS trip itself, because the ILP is generally 2. Office of Resident Commissioner, t o u r

/ Location ABC Bldg. Services Car rental, – Rafting / Trekking issued only a few districts at a time, and Arunachal Bhawan, New Delhi

Main Market, Bomdila tours, hotels Desti- Location Tebo Village, often not valid if you cross over to 3. Office of Deputy Resident p e r m i t s Tel 03782-222017 Cell nations All North-East NH 52, Tel 222324 Cell another district which isn’t on your ILP, Commissioner, Arunachal Bhawan, o f f i c e s 08794891760 W 09436043393 W making spontaneous travel complicated Kolkata and Guwahati. himalayan-holidays.net NAHARLAGUN arunachaldonyihango. for first-timers. To renew, extend your ILP 4. Department of Home, Government Services Car rental, tours, Ravi Travel & Tour Inc com Services Tours or add a different district on your pass, if of Arunachal Pradesh, Itanagar. t o u r i s t hotels, permits Desti- Location A Sector, you don’t choose the online route for 5. Department of Tourism, Govern- nations All North-East Naharlagun (Near Old ROING STD 03803 whatever reason (such as temporarily not ment of Arunachal Pradesh, Itanagar. Cinema Hall), Dist The Mishmi Hills having internet or electricity), you’d ITANAGAR STD 0360 Papumpare Cell Trekking Co. need to submit a written application to PAPs aren’t issued to tourists in certain Duyu Tours & Travels 08257894003- 04 Location 2 kms from the local DC or ADC. These offices are sensitive border areas such as some Location Vivek Vihar, Services Hotel/Air/ Rail Roing Cell 09436875102 of course, closed on public holidays. parts of Changlang, Tirap, Longding College Road, Itanagar bookings Destinations Services Adventure Tours Keep passport-sized photographs and districts. Check if where you want to Tel 0360-216450 Cell All Arunachal Pradesh Destinations Arunachal photocopies of your ID handy travel in Arunachal is a no-go zone for

170 171 tourists. Researchers, scientists, etc 4. t e n

might be able to travel to these parts, The Deputy Resident Commissioner, t o p

however in special cases, provided they Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, have received a local invitation and , Shilllong. Tel 0364- have proper projects in these places. 2224247, 2224476 p r a d e s h

5. Tezpur Hardcopy ILP applications are also The Deputy Resident Commissioner, received and issued by the Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Parvati following offices Nagar, Tezpur,Assam Tel 03712- 260173, 260141 09435521735 a r u n a c h a l 1. Delhi Cell The Resident Commissioner, Govt. of 6. Dibrugarh Arunachal Pradesh,Kautilya Marg, The Deputy Resident Commissioner, Chanakyapuri, New Delhi. Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, Tel: 011-23013915 Mohanbari, Dibrugarh, Assam 2. Kolkata Tel 0373- 2382560/2382738. The Deputy Resident Commissioner, 7. From the office of all the Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, CE-109, Deputy Commissioners of 25 Districts p e r m i t s Sector-1, Salt Lake City, Kolkata. of the state. Tel 033-23341243, 23589865 Cell 09830822512 PERMITS ON ARRIVAL 3. Guwahati The Deputy Resident Commissioner, Tourist ILP facilitation centres are Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, GS Road at the following places: Rukminigaon opposite Manasa Mandir, Naharlagun Railway Station, Gumto Dispur, Guwahati railway station, Guwahati Asom Paryatan Tel 0361-2412859, 2416720 Bhawan near Nepali Mandir and Cell 7086026788 Guwahati LGBI Airport.

Contacts for ILPs The office of all the Deputy Commissioners of the 25 Districts of the state, issue hard copy permits W arunachalpradesh.gov.in/districts-officials; arunachaltourism.com/inner.php Timings: Mon-Fri: 10.00am- 4.00pm

172 TRANSPORT DIRECTORY t e n

t o p AIR W airindia.in/alliance-air Airport Director Tel IN ARUNACHAL 0373-2382755 AIRLINE OFFICES GO AIR W aai.aero

Customer Care: 022- p r a d e s h

Alliance Air Toll Free 18602331407 62732111 AIRLINE OFFICES W airindia.in Toll Free: 18602100999 AIR INDIA Origin Guwahati W goair.in Toll Free 18602331407 Origin Bagdogra, Delhi, W airindia.in a r u n a c h a l TEZU AIRPORT has Kolkata been inaugurated, but INDIGO at the time of going to INDIGO Tel: 0124-6173838 press is not up and Tel: 0124-6173838 Cell 09910383838 running as yet. Cell 09910383838 W goindigo.in

W goindigo.in d i r e c t o r y

IN ASSAM Origin , SPICEJET LOKPRIYA GOPINATH Amritsar, Bagdogra, Cell 09871803333 BORDOLOI/ Guwahati Bengaluru, W spicejet.com

International Airport Bhubaneswar, Chennai, t r a n s p o r t Airport Director Tel Delhi, Hyderabad, LILABARI AIRPORT 0361-2841909 , Kochi, Kolkata, North Lakhimpur, Assam W aai.aero Mumbai, Varanasi W aai.aero

AIRLINE OFFICES VISTARA AIRLINE OFFICES AIR INDIA Cell 09289228888 ALLIANCE AIR Toll Free 18602331407 W airvistara.com Toll Free 18602331407 W airindia.in W airindia.in/alliance-air DIBRUGARH ALLIANCE AIR AIRPORT SPICEJET Toll Free 18602331407 Mohanbari, Assam Cell 09871803333,

173 09654003333 are Anand Vihar Arunachal Pradesh by the Arunachal Pradesh by t e n t e n RAIL IN ASSAM

W spicejet.com Enquiry 139 DIBRUGARH RAILWAY -Agartala Rajdhani Naharlagun – Tinsukia Guwahati-Naharlagun t o p t o p

Origin Kolkata W indianrail.gov.in STATION Express, Bikaner- Intercity Express. Shatabdi Express, irctc.co.in Dibrugarh Railway Guwahati Express, Guwahati-Naharlagun TEZPUR AIRPORT Station is well connected Kolkata-Silghat Town RANGIYA JUNCTION Donyi-Polo Express, p r a d e s h p r a d e s h Haleswar Dist-Sonitpur, to Delhi, Amritsar, Kaziranga Express, Rangiya Junction is a Arunachal AC SF

IN ARUNACHAL Tezpur, Assam BHALUKPONG Chandigarh, Bengaluru, Mumbai LLT-Guwahati major railway station Express. RAILWAY STATION Kolkata, Uttar Pradesh Express, etc. It is connecting Assam to Airport Director Tel Bhalukpong Railway etc. Major trains serving connected to Arunachal major cities in India and TINSUKIA JUNCTION 03712-258441 Station is connected to this station are Avadh Pradesh by the Arunachal Pradesh. Tinsukia Junction is a r u n a c h a l a r u n a c h a l W aai.aero Assam by the Assam Express, Naharlagun-Guwahati Trains serving this connected to Dibrugarh, Bhalukpong-Dekargaon Dibrugarh-Amritsar Shatabdi Express, station are Kanchen- Guwahati by Ledo- AIRLINE OFFICES Passenger. Weekly Express, Tinsukia Intercity junga Express, Avadh Guwahati Intercity ALLIANCE AIR Dibrugarh-Chandigarh Express and Arunachal Assam Express etc. It is Express, Tinsukia-Jorhat Toll Free 18602331407 NAHARLAGUN Weekly Express, AC SF Express. connected to Arunachal Town Passenger, etc. It d i r e c t o r y W airindia.in/alliance-air Dibrugarh-Kolkata Pradesh by Naharlagun- is connected to d i r e c t o r y

RAILWAY STATION Naharlagun Railway Weekly SF Express and HARMUTI JUNCTION Guwahati Donyi Polo Arunachal Pradesh by HELICOPTER SERVICE Station connects Assam Dibrugarh-New Delhi Harmuti Junction is Express, Arunachal AC Naharlagun-Tinsukia W arunachalipr.gov.in and New Delhi. Trains Rajdhani Express. It is connected to served SF Express. Intercity Express. t r a n s p o r t Guwahati Ticket serving this station connected to Arunachal major metros and t r a n s p o r t Counter Cell include the Naharlagun- Pradesh by the cities by Arunachal TEZPUR RAILWAY Road 09085738939 Guwahati Donyi Polo Naharlagun- Tinsukia Express. STATION BUS Naharlagun Ticket Express, Naharlagun- Intercity Express. Other trains connecting Tezpur Railway Station Bomdila (SS) Cell Counter Cell Guwahati Shatabdi Arunachal Pradesh are falls under the Rangiya 09402476020 09436291907 Express, Tinsukia GUWAHATI JUNCTION Naharlagun-Guwahati Division. Trains serving Pasighat (SS) SECTORS: Intercity Express, and Guwahati Junction is a Shatabdi Express, this station are Cell 09612453200 Guwahati -Naharlagun Arunachal AC SF Express major railway station Alipurduar Jn-Silghat Itanagar (SS/AS) Guwahati-Tawang (bi-weekly) which con- connecting Assam to NORTH LAKHIMPUR Town Rajya Rani Cell 09774034571, Naharlagun-Pasighat nects Delhi, UP, Bihar, other parts of the RAILWAY STATION Express, Kolkata-Silghat 09774990779 Pasighat-Along West Bengal and Assam country. Major trains North Lakhimpur Railway Town Kaziranga Express Tawang (SS) Cell Naharlagun-Mechuka to Arunachal Pradesh. serving this station Station is connected to etc. It is connected to 09436836087

174 175 Photo Credits

Front Cover arunachal pradesh tourism Third row, Right: A jeep crossing the bridge near Dite Dime village, East Siang

getty images Fourth row, Middle: Traditional dances performed by monks dressed in ritualistic attire during the Torgya festival at the Tawang Monastery

Sanjoy ghosh Fourth row, Left: Tawang War Memorial Fourth row, Right: View of Tawang Monastery

Shutterstock Top: The mesmerizing View of the Mountains near Jaswantgarh Second row, Left: Suspension bridge in Arunachal Pradesh Second row, Right: Hornbills perched on a tree branch

Inside the Book ahtushi deshpande Page 32, Rottung camp

dinodia photo library Page 18, An old man from the Aptani tribe binding a basket

getty images Page 5, Right: Traditional dances performed by monks dressed in ritualistic attire during the Torgya festival at the Tawang Monastery

guneet narula Page 150, Indian giant squirrel

Sanjiv valsan Page 4, Right: A biker at the snow-covered Mayudia Pass Page 80, Interiors of Itanagr Gompa

Sanjoy ghosh Page 5, Left: Tawang War Memorial

Shutterstock Page 4, Left: Taktsang Monastery

176