The Ridgeway 4 THETHE EDN ‘...The Trailblazer Series Stands Head, Shoulders, Waist and Ankles Above the Rest

Home , Aldbourne, Barbury Castle, Ivinghoe Beacon, Letcombe Regis, Liddington Castle, Overton Hill

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TRAILBLAZER The Ridgeway 4 THETHE EDN ‘...the Trailblazer series stands head, shoulders, waist and ankles above the rest. They are particularly strong on mapping...’ RidgewayRidgeway THE SUNDAY TIMES 53 large-scale maps & guides to 24 towns and villages With accommodation, pubs and Manchester PLANNING – PLACES TO STAY – PLACES TO EAT restaurants in detailed guides to Birmingham Ivinghoe 24 towns and villages including THE Beacon AVEBURY TO IVINGHOE BEACON Marlborough and Avebury RIDGEWAY Cardiff Overton London NICK HILL & Exeter Hill o Includes 53 detailed walking maps: the 100km largest-scale maps available – at just 50 miles HENRY STEDMAN under 1:20,000 (8cm or 31/8 inches to 1 mile) these are bigger than even the most detailed ‘Excellent trail guide’ AVEBURY TO IVINGHOE BEACON walking maps currently available in the shops WALK magazine (Ramblers)

o Unique mapping features – walking An 87-mile (139km) National times, directions, tricky junctions, places to Trail, the Ridgeway runs from stay, places to eat, points of interest. These Overton Hill near Avebury in are not general-purpose maps but fully Wiltshire to Ivinghoe Beacon in edited maps drawn by walkers for walkers Buckinghamshire. Part of this route follows Britain’s oldest o Itineraries for all walkers – whether road, dating back millennia. hiking the entire route or sampling high- Taking 5-8 days, this is not a lights on day walks or short breaks difficult walk and the rewards o are many: rolling countryside, Detailed public transport information Iron Age forts, Neolithic burial Buses and trains for all access points mounds, white horses carved o Practical information for all budgets into the chalk downs and pic- What to see; where to eat (cafés, pubs and turesque villages. restaurants); where to stay (B&Bs, hotels, INCLUDES DOWNLOADABLE bunkhouses, hostels and campsites) GPS waypoints www.trailblazer-guides.com

DISTRIBUTED IN UK & IRELAND BY MCA / TRAVEL ALLIANCE % 01225 473068 Price in UK UK£11.99 DISTRIBUTED IN USA BY NBN 4 % 1-800-462-6420 www.nbnbooks.com EDN Price in USA US$19.95 ISBN 978-1-905864-79-9 4th edition

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The Ridgeway First edition: 2006; this fourth edition: 2017 Publisher: Trailblazer Publications The Old Manse, Tower Rd, Hindhead, Surrey GU26 6SU, UK www.trailblazer-guides.com British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ISBN 978-1-905864-79-9 © Trailblazer 2006, 2009, 2012, 2017: Text and maps Editor and layout: Anna Jacomb-Hood Proof-reading: Jane Thomas Cartography: Nick Hill Illustrations: © Nick Hill (pp68-72); Photographs (flora): C1, Row 1, middle & right; C3, Row 1 left: © Tricia Hayne all other flora photographs © Bryn Thomas All other photographs: © Henry Stedman unless otherwise indicated Index: Anna Jacomb-Hood All rights reserved. Other than brief extracts for the purposes of review no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written consent of the publisher and copyright owner. The maps in this guide were prepared from out-of-Crown- copyright Ordnance Survey maps amended and updated by Trailblazer.

Acknowledgements FROM HENRY: Thanks to Zoe for all her help with the research, as well as for organising all the accommodation en route; and to Henry Jr for guaranteeing that the whole trip would be both memorable and fun! Thanks also to all those readers who’ve emailed with comments and suggestions, in particular Nigel Black, Jonathan Billings, Richard Butler, Bob Crockford, Timothy Cook, Tom Hope, Nick Houghton, Nigel Kemp, Trevor & Joan Lipscombe, Alex Matthews, William O’Neill and Keith Rogers. At Trailblazer, many thanks to Anna Jacomb-Hood for editing, to Jane Thomas for proof-reading, and also to Bryn for finally giving me the opportunity to walk and work on this book! A request The author and publisher have tried to ensure that this guide is as accurate as possible. Nevertheless things change even on these well-worn routes. If you notice any changes or omissions please write to Trailblazer (address as above) or email us at : info@trailblazer- guides.com. A free copy of the next edition will be sent to persons making a significant con- tribution. Warning: long-distance walking can be dangerous Please read the notes on when to go (pp14-16) and health and safety (pp57-9). Every effort has been made by the author and publisher to ensure that the information contained herein is as accurate and up to date as possible. However, they are unable to accept responsibility for any inconvenience, loss or injury sustained by anyone as a result of the advice and information given in this guide.

PHOTOS – Front cover and this page: Experienced long-distance walker and cover girl Daisy on the Ridgeway between Wayland’s Smithy and Uffington Castle. Previous page: The view of the Whipsnade White Lion, on the hills two miles to the east of the trail, is a good indication that you’re almost at Ivinghoe Beacon. Overleaf: Views across the fields along Smeathe’s Ridge, between Barbury Castle and Foxhill. Updated information will be available on: : www.trailblazer-guides.com Printed in China; print production by D’Print (% +65-6581 3832), Singapore

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THE Ridgeway 53 large-scale maps & guides to 24 towns and villages PLANNING – PLACES TO STAY – PLACES TO EAT AVEBURY TO IVINGHOE BEACON NICK HILL & HENRY STEDMAN

TRAILBLAZERTRAILBLAZER PUBLICATIONSPUBLICATIONS

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INTRODUCTION The Ridgeway History 10 – How difficult is the Ridgeway? 12 – How long do you need? 13 – When to go 14 PART 1: PLANNING YOUR WALK Practical information for the walker Route finding 17 – GPS 17 – Accommodation 18 – Food and drink 21 – Money 23 – Information for foreign visitors 24 – Other services 26 – Walking companies and luggage transfer 26 – Disabled access 27 – Mountain-biking 28 – Horse riders 28 – Motor vehicles 28 – Taking dogs along the Ridgeway 29 Budgeting 29 Itineraries The best day and two-day walks 31 – Town and village facilities table 32 – Which direction? 34 – Suggested itineraries 35 – Side trips 35 What to take Keep your luggage light 37 – How to carry it 37 – Footwear 38 Clothes 38 – Toiletries 39 – First-aid kit 39 – General items 39 Camping gear 40 – Money 40 – Maps 40 – Recommended reading 42 – Sources of further information 42 Getting to and from the Ridgeway Getting to Britain 44 – National transport 44 – Local transport 47 Public transport map 48 – Local bus services 50 PART 2: MINIMUM IMPACT & OUTDOOR SAFETY Minimum impact walking Economic impact 52 – Environmental impact 52 – Access 55 Outdoor safety Avoidance of hazards 57 – Weather forecasts 58 – Health 58 PART 3: THE ENVIRONMENT & NATURE Conservation of the Ridgeway Natural England 60 – Campaigning and conservation organisations 62 Flora and fauna Flowers 63 – Trees 64 – Butterflies 65 – Mammals 66 – Birds 68 Contents

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PART 4: MARLBOROUGH TO AVEBURY Marlborough Services 73 – Transport 74 – Where to stay 74 – Where to eat and drink 75 – Marlborough to Avebury walk 77 Avebury and around Avebury 84 – Avebury stone circle 86 – West Overton 88 – West Kennett & East Kennett 89 – A walk around Avebury 89 Getting to the start of the Ridgeway 91 PART 5: ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS Using this guide Trail maps 94 The Ridgeway route guide Overton Hill to Foxhill 96 (Ogbourne St George 104 Liddington 108) Foxhill to Court Hill (& Wantage) 109 (Bishopstone 111 Ashbury 114 – Woolstone 116 – Uffington 118 – Sparsholt Firs 119 Sparsholt 121 – Letcombe Regis 124 – Wantage 125) (Wantage &) Court Hill to Goring 127 (East Ilsley 132 Compton 134 – Aldworth 137 – Streatley 138 – Goring 140) Goring to Watlington 141 (South Stoke 142 – North Stoke 146 Wallingford 147 – Crowmarsh Gifford 150 – Nuffield 152 Watlington 158) Watlington to Princes Risborough 160 (Lewknor 160 – Kingston Blount 162 – Chinnor 164 – Princes Risborough 169) Princes Risborough to Wigginton (& Tring) 171 (Wendover 174 Wigginton 179 – Tring 181) (Tring &) Wigginton to Ivinghoe Beacon 185 (Aldbury 187 – Ivinghoe 190) APPENDICES A: Walking the Ridgeway with a dog 191 B: The Greater Ridgeway 193 C: Map keys 195 D: GPS waypoints 196

INDEX 199

OVERVIEW MAPS & PROFILES 209 Contents

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ABOUT THIS BOOK This guidebook contains all the information you need. The hard work has been done for you so you can plan your trip without the usual pile of assorted books, maps and guides. When you’re all packed and ready to go, there’s compre- hensive public transport information to get you to and from the Ridgeway and 53 detailed walking maps (1:20,000) and 21 town plans to help you find your way along it. The guide includes: l Where to stay: from campsites to luxu- rious hotels l Details of walking companies if you’d prefer an organised holiday and bag- gage-carrying services if you just want your luggage carried l Suggested itineraries for all types of walkers l Answers to all your questions: when to go, how challenging it is, what to pack and the approximate cost of the whole walking holiday. l Walking times in both directions; route descriptions are written from west to east l GPS waypoints (downloadable from www.trailblazer-guides.com) l Details of cafés, pubs, teashops, takeaways and restaurants as well as shops and supermarkets for supplies l Rail, bus and taxi information for all places along the path l Street plans of the main towns and villages l Historical, cultural and geographical background information.

❏ MINIMUM IMPACT FOR MAXIMUM INSIGHT Nature’s peace will flow into you as the sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their freshness into you and storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves. John Muir (one of the world’s earliest and most influential environmentalists, born in 1838) It is no surprise that, since the time of John Muir, walkers and adventurers have been concerned about the natural environment; this book seeks to continue that tradition. By developing a deeper ecological awareness through a better understanding of nature and by supporting rural economies, local businesses, sensitive forms of transport and low-impact methods of farming and land-use we can all do our bit for a brighter future. As we work harder and live our lives at an ever faster pace a walking holiday is a chance to escape from the daily grind and the natural pace gives us time to think and relax. This can have a positive impact not only on our own well-being but also on that of the area we pass through. There can be few activities as ‘environmentally friendly’ as walking. About this book

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INTRODUCTION

The Ridgeway stretches for 87 miles (139km) across the very heart of England, a journey that encompasses no fewer than five counties, beginning in Wiltshire, at Avebury, and passing through Oxfordshire, Berkshire and Hertford- The Ridgeway stretches for shire before finally ending 87 miles (139km) across its meandering way at the very heart of England Ivinghoe Beacon in Buck- inghamshire (see back of the book for overview map). Though now one of the 15 National Trails of England and Wales, the path actually started life around 5000 years ago – a thoroughfare for prehistoric man to make his way across the country on higher (and thus drier) ground. It’s no surprise, therefore, you’ll often see it described on promotional literature as the oldest road in the country – and there may well be some truth to that. Perhaps the main joy of the Ridgeway is that so much evidence of its extensive history is still visible. From the moment you arrive in magical Avebury – a UNESCO World Heritage Site thanks to the concentric stone circles that ring the village, including the largest stone circle in the whole of Western Europe – the prehistoric sites

Avebury Stone Circle (see p86) at the very start at the walk. Introduction

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8 Introduction ______come thick and fast. Between the village and the actual start of the trail is West Kennet Avenue, originally lined with about 100 pairs (give or take a few) of giant sarsen stones in parallel lines; only some of which now remain. And no sooner do you set off from the start of the trail proper, at Overton Hill, than your gaze is diverted towards to a set of three INTRODUCTION tumuli to the right of the path – The Thames between Goring and Streatley ancient barrows (burial mounds) where another national trail, the Thames Path, that are almost as old as the road crosses the Ridgeway. itself. Indeed, before your first day on the trail is over you will have encountered the huge Iron Age forts of Barbury Castle and Liddington Castle and the wonderfully preserved Neolithic long barrow at Wayland’s Smithy – at around 5500 years old it’s as old as the trail itself! And just a little further on you come upon the most striking ancient landmark of them all, the magnificent Uffington White Horse: lines of trenches filled with crushed chalk that, togeth- er, form a highly stylised outline of a 100m-long white horse. So striking and enigmatic is it that it is said to have influ- enced not only all the other white horses that adorn many a hillside round these parts, but it has also even been described as a forerunner of much of modern-day’s minimalist art! But the Ridgeway’s charms are not merely confined to remnants of its distant past, as fascinating as these may be. There are the landscapes through which it passes and the panoramas you can enjoy from it too. From the moment you take your first steps on the trail you are immediately taken up onto high ground; thereafter the views of the countryside change endlessly with the light and reach endlessly to the horizon. The first half of the trail is open to the elements but it is exhilarating. On sunny days the air is wonderful, filling you with energy and physical well-being. It is also one of the most enjoyable sections of the Ridgeway; in blissful solitude you can look down at the towns and vil-

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Introduction 9 ______lages far below, with only the occasional friendly dog-walker or fellow Ridgeway trekker to break the isolation every once in a while. Then, at about the halfway point, the Ridgeway changes character. Dropping down to the Thames at the pretty Siamese twin villages of Streatley and Goring, the path leaves the voluptuous Wessex Downs in favour of the Chiltern Hills. From here on woodlands become the dominant theme, with lux- uriant woodland bearding the trail’s many ascents and descents. But scattered amongst the trees are several small, picturesque villages, such as Wigginton and Aldbury, as well as a number of market towns – Princes Risborough, Wendover and Tring – all of which lie either on the trail or within easy walking distance of it. Plus there’s also the rare opportunity to walk through the Chequers Estate, the traditional country home of the prime minister! INTRODUCTION Eventually, of course, trees finally relent and thin out and, climbing above the butterfly Mecca of Albury Nowers, you catch your first glimpse of your ulti- mate destination, Ivinghoe Beacon, up ahead in the distance. It’s a fairly pun- ishing way to end a trek, but you’ll be rewarded by some spectacular, panoramic views of the countryside below; plus, of course, the warm feeling that comes with having completed one of the country’s great walks. Prehistoric sites, gorgeous rolling countryside and exquisite little villages huddled around cosy, half-timbered pubs. And, if that’s not enough, it should

(Below) Looking back to Silbury Hill from West Kennet Long Barrow (see p90), Avebury.

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10 Introduction ______also be pointed out that walking the Ridgeway is not difficult. It can be done in five days but this won’t leave much time for relaxation, or for enjoying the countryside you are walking through. So allow time to explore, to dally, to soak in the sun and smell the flowers. The Ridgeway, after all, is a path to savour, not hurry through; so allow six or, even better, seven days for your hike along this most ancient of trails – you’ll be mightily glad that you did.

History INTRODUCTION The Ridgeway is very ancient. It’s often described as ‘the oldest road in Britain’ and it’s clear that parts of the route were in use 5000 years ago or more. The Ridgeway, as we know it today, is It’s often described as the ‘oldest in fact the middle section of the road in Britain’ ... parts were in use Greater Ridgeway (see pp193-4), 5000 years ago or more an ancient system of tracks that stretches from Lyme Regis on the Dorset coast up to Hunstanton on the Norfolk coast. These tracks evolved over centuries as people chose the driest and most suitable paths across the countryside, for themselves and their animals – which usually meant following the higher ground. During your walk you will still be able to see and touch stone structures dating back to the prehistoric days of the Ridgeway; the burial mound known as Wayland’s Smithy (see box p114) dates back to around 3590BC. Bronze Age (2500BC to 800BC) stone structures still stand, with the Avebury stone circle (see box pp86-7) and West Kennet Avenue (see box p89) being by far the most famous and accessible of these. Additionally, you can see numerous Bronze Age burial mounds dotted along the Ridgeway. From the Iron Age (beginning about 800BC) there are several important hill forts to investigate including Barbury Castle (see p97) and Uffington Castle (see p116) plus earthworks such as Grim’s ditch (see box p152) also dating from this time. During the Dark Ages the Ridgeway was used as a major transport route for invading Danish Viking armies. By the late 9th century they had conquered most of Saxon England and had turned their attention to the kingdom of Wessex. In 871 they marched west along the Ridgeway from their base by the Thames at Wayland’s Smithy (see p114) is a Neolithic Reading only to be defeated by long barrow. Legend tells that the shoes for the Uffington White Horse were forged here. King Alfred at the Battle of

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History 11 ______Ashdown, which some think took place in the area around White Horse Hill (see box p117). Up until the 18th century the Ridgeway still consisted of a col- lection of routes broadly heading in approximately the same direction across the country but then the Enclosures Acts were passed by parliament and these initiated the division of previously com- munal open land into privately INTRODUCTION owned fields. These fields were A lovely row of thatched cottages in Ashbury, then hedged in to protect them north of Wayland’s Smithy. from passing livestock and as a result the Ridgeway was forced to follow a single, defined route. As coaching routes to London developed they avoided the actual course of the Ridgeway so it was left largely neglected – although several towns on the path, such as Marlborough and Wendover, were important rest stops. For several hundred years, therefore, the main users of the path were drovers transporting their sheep from the West Country, and even Wales, to the large sheep fairs at East Ilsley (see p132). The width of the Ridgeway in this area, sometimes up to 20 metres, gives an idea of just how much livestock was transported on this route. At their peak the fairs held auctions for up to 80,000 sheep a day though by the early 20th century these fairs were in decline: the last one was held in 1934. From then on the path was used mainly by farmers for access to their land. This was especially the case during World War II when many of the hill- sides around the Ridgeway saw a change in use from sheep-grazed areas to cul- tivated fields. This was the result of a government-initiated effort to provide sufficient food for the population as imports were threatened owing to the fight- ing. This not only changed the visual landscape of many areas of the Ridgeway but also damaged the indigenous wildlife as power- ful chemical fertilisers were used to improve the poor soil. The first calls for the Ridgeway to be recognised as a long-distance walking trail were made in 1947 by the National Parks Committee and in the 1950s the Ramblers’ Association (now Ramblers; see box p42) The Ridgeway was once used mainly by joined the appeal. However, it drovers taking their sheep to the sheep fairs at East Ilsley. You’ll see far fewer sheep now.

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12 History ______wasn’t until 1973 that it was officially opened as a National Trail, since when, the most common use for the path has been for recreation. Only minor alter- ations have been made to its course since then which enables everyone to make their way along the 87-mile (139km) trail in the footsteps of the first Ridgeway pioneers from thousands of years ago.

How difficult is the Ridgeway?

INTRODUCTION If you are reasonably fit you won’t encounter any problems walking the Ridgeway. There are no sections that are technically difficult and despite having a couple of steep climbs during It’s nothing like as demanding each day’s walking, it’s nothing like as as many other National Trails demanding as many other National Trails. The most important thing to do is plan your walking based on your own abilities. If you try to walk too far in one day, not only will you lose the chance to really enjoy the countryside you are walking through but you will end up exhausted and won’t feel much like walking the next day.

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How difficult is the Ridgeway? 13 ______If anything, the western section of the Ridgeway, up to Streatley, could be considered more difficult than the eastern section owing to its remote and exposed conditions that become very apparent during bad weather. From Streatley onwards the Ridgeway is often in woodland, or passing through fields, and goes through, or near to, numerous towns and villages.

How long do you need?

This depends on your fitness and experience. Do not try to do too much in one INTRODUCTION day if you are new to long-distance walking. Most people find that eight days is enough to complete the walk and Most people find that eight days still have time to look around the vil- is enough to complete the walk lages and enjoy the views along the and have time to look around way. Alternatively, the entire path can the villages ... but it can be be done in five days if you are fit done in five days enough, but you won’t see much of (Below) Ivinghoe Beacon – journey’s end. the surrounding countryside. If you’re camping don’t underes- timate how much a heavy pack laden with camping gear will slow you down. It is also worth bearing in mind that those who take it easy on the Ridgeway see a lot more than those who sweat out long days and tend to only ever see the path in front of them. If you are walking on your own you can dictate the pace, but when walking with someone else you need to take their abilities into account and take time to enjoy their company – this may slow you down. If you don’t take time to do this, you might as well be walking separately and simply meet up at the end of the day. On all sections, but particularly the western section, you’ll also need to consider how far off the path your accommodation is and build that distance into your daily total. Although some B&Bs will collect you from the Ridgeway and drop you back the next morning, not all offer this service so you do need to check when reserving

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34 Itineraries ______WHICH DIRECTION? The generally accepted way to walk the Ridgeway is from west to east though it really doesn’t matter. As the two halves are very different you might base your

SUGGESTED ITINERARIES

CAMPING & BUNKHOUSE/HOSTEL Relaxed pace Medium pace Fast pace Place Approx Place Approx Place Approx Distance Distance Distance Night miles/km miles/km miles/km

0 Overton Hill Overton Hill Overton Hill 1 Ogbourne St G* 9.6/15.5 Ogbourne St G* 9.6/15.5 Ogbourne St G* 9.6/15.5 2 Sparsholt Firs 14.5/23 Sparsholt Firs 14.5/23 Court Hill 19/30.5 3 Court Hill 4.5/7 Court Hill 4.5/7 Streatley§ 14/22.5 4 Streatley§ 14/22.5 Streatley§ 14/22.5 Watlington 15/24 5 Crowmarsh G 7.3/12 Crowmarsh G 7.3/12 Princes Risboro’* 11.2/18 6 Watlington 9.6/15 Watlington 9.6/15 Ivinghoe 17.5/28 7 Princes Risboro’* 11.2/18 Princes Risboro’* 11.2/18 Beacon 8 Wigginton* 12.4/20 Ivinghoe 17.5/28 9 Ivinghoe 5.1/8 Beacon Beacon

§No campsite but hostel accommodation is available *No campsites or hostels but alternative accommodation is available PLANNING YOUR WALK STAYING IN B&B-STYLE ACCOMMODATION Relaxed pace Medium pace Fast pace Place Approx Place Approx Place Approx Distance Distance Distance Night miles/km miles/km miles/km

0 Overton Hill Overton Hill Overton Hill 1 Ogbourne St G 9.6/15.5 Bishopstone 17.7/28.5 Bishopstone 17.7/28.5 2 Bishopstone 8.7/14 Letcombe Rgs 9.9/15.5 East Ilsley 18.7/30 3 Letcombe Rgs 9.9/15.5 Goring 14.8/23.5 Watlington 20.7/33 4 East Ilsley 8.8/14 Watlington 14.7/23.5 Wendover 17.2/26.5 5 Wallingford 11.2/18.5 Princes Risboro’ 11/18 Ivinghoe 11.3/18 6 Watlington 9.5/15.5 Wigginton 12.4/20 Beacon 7 Princes Risboro’ 11/18 Ivinghoe 5.1/8 8 Wigginton 12.4/20 Beacon 9 Ivinghoe 5.1/8.5 Beacon Note: Airbnb options are not included in the above Ridgeway-4 01-03_Prelims Template 17/10/2016 21:11 Page 19

Which direction? 35 ______decision on what type of scenery and terrain you’d like to tackle first. Neither section is particularly demanding but the western section is far more isolated and really isn’t much fun in bad weather. The eastern section, being in woodlands for much of the time, is far more sheltered and relaxing. Availability of public transport heading in either direction along the Ridgeway is similar so this shouldn’t have much bearing on which direction you choose to walk in. Although the maps in Part 4 of this book follow the Ridgeway from west to east, there are timings on all the maps for walking in either direction.

SUGGESTED ITINERARIES The itineraries in the box opposite are based on different accommodation types: one is for those who prefer to camp or stay in hostels/bunkhouses where possible; the other is for those who choose to stay in B&B-style accommodation. Each is divided into three options based on walking speeds. They are only suggestions so feel free to adapt them to your needs. Don’t forget to add your trav- elling time before and after the walk.

SIDE TRIPS There are plenty of good circular and linear walks from the Ridgeway. Information about all these routes can be obtained from local tourist information centres/points (see box p42), the National Trails website, or from the rele- vant county/district councils (see box p62). l Aldbourne Circular Route This is a 12-mile (19.5km) route which for several miles uses the Ridgeway. It takes in Aldbourne village, several Bronze Age

burial mounds, the deserted village of Snap (see p105), Liddington Castle (see PLANNING YOUR WALK p108) and Sugar Hill. The trail is waymarked and it’s also marked on OS Explorer map Nos 157 and 170. l Ashbury Circular Walk This 10-mile (16km) walk from the village of Ashbury (see p114) takes the walker through some beautiful countryside once the initial steep climb has been completed. The path crosses the Ridgeway and heads to Alfred’s Castle, an Iron Age hillfort, before reaching Ashdown House, a 17th-century Dutch-style property owned by the National Trust. From here it returns to the Ridgeway via a different route and takes in Wayland’s Smithy (see box p114), before heading back down the hill to Ashbury. The trail is waymarked and although the paths are marked on OS Explorer map No 170, they aren’t labelled. l Lambourn Valley Way This 20-mile (32km) route starts at Uffington White Horse and leads down into the valley to reach the village of Lambourn. It then broadly follows the River Lambourn along the valley to its end in Newbury. This is a very peaceful walk passing through several small villages with only the crossing of the M4 to spoil the atmosphere. The route is waymarked and is also marked on OS Explorer map Nos 170 and 158. Ridgeway-4 01-03_Prelims Template 17/10/2016 21:11 Page 32

48 Getting to and from the Ridgeway ______

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Local bus services 51 ______

l % Salisbury Reds ( 01202 338420, : www.salisburyreds.co.uk) X5 Swindon to Salisbury via Marlborough & Pewsey, Mon-Sat 1/hr l Stagecoach (: www.stagecoachbus.com) 80 Swindon to Marlborough via Chiseldon & Ogbourne St George, Mon-Sat 6/day 70A/72A Swindon to Marlborough via Ogbourne St George, Mon-Sat 3/day evening only (also operated by Thamesdown) 49 Swindon to Trowbridge (The Trans Wilts Express) via Broad Hinton, Winterbourne Bassett, Avebury, Beckhampton & Devizes, Mon-Sat 1/hr, Swindon to Devizes via Broad Hinton, Winterbourne Bassett, Avebury, Beckhampton, Sun 6/day 31 Oxford to Wantage via Abingdon, daily 1/hr X30 Oxford to Wantage, Mon-Sat 2/hr, Sun 1/hr l % Thamesdown Transport ( 01793 428428, : www.thamesdown-transport.co.uk) Rural 20 Hungerford to Marlborough, Mon-Fri 5/day 42 Calne to Marlborough via Compton Bassett, Cherhill, Beckhampton, Avebury, West Kennett, East Kennett, West Overton, Mon-Fri 7/day, Sat 6/day (note: stops are request only) 46/46A Swindon to Hungerford via Liddington, Foxhill, Aldbourne & Ramsbury, Mon-Sat 3/day but the 46 (1/day) doesn’t stop at Foxhill X47 Wantage to Swindon via Letcombe Regis, Letcombe Bassett, Sparsholt, Kingston Lisle, Uffington, Woolstone, Ashbury, Idstone, Bishopstone, Hinton Parva, Foxhill & Liddington, Sat 3/day 48/48A Swindon to Marlborough via Liddington, Foxhill, Aldbourne & Ramsbury, Mon-Sat 5-6/day 70A Swindon to Marlborough via Chiseldon & Ogbourne St George, Mon-Sat 2/day (also operated by Stagecoach) 72A Swindon to Marlborough via Wroughton, Chiseldon & Ogbourne St George, Mon-Sat 1/day PLANNING YOUR WALK X22 Hungerford to Marlborough, Mon-Fri 2/day, Sat 1/day l % Thames Travel/Go Ahead ( 01865 785400, : www.thames-travel.co.uk) 32A Abingdon to Wantage via Didcot Parkway, Mon-Fri 1/hr, Sat 12/day 136 Cholsey to Benson via Wallingford, Crowmarsh Gifford & Benson, Mon-Fri 1-2/hr, Sun Cholsey to Wallingford 4/day 139 Henley-on-Thames to Wallingford via Nuffield & Crowmarsh Gifford, Mon-Sat approx 1/hr 139B Henley-on-Thames to Wallingford via Benson, Nuffield & Crowmarsh Gifford, Sun 5/day T1 Watlington to Lewknor & Chinnor, Mon-Sat 10/day, Sat 8/day (additional services start in Oxford/Cowley) X2 Oxford to Wallingford via Abingdon & Didcot, Mon-Sat 2/hr, Sun 1/hr X32 Oxford to Wantage, Mon-Fri 1/hr, Sat 11/day X39 Reading to Oxford via Wallingford & Crowmarsh Gifford, Mon-Sat approx 1/hr X40 Reading to Oxford via Woodcote, Wallingford & Crowmarsh Gifford, daily approx1/hr Ridgeway-4 04 & 05a_Layout 1 17/10/2016 20:54 Page 22

5 ROUTE GUIDE & MAPS

Using this guide

This route guide has been divided according to logical start and stop points. However, these are not intended to be strict daily stages since people walk at different speeds and have different interests. The maps can be used to plan how far to walk each day. The route sum- maries describe the trail between significant places and are written as if walking the path from west to east. To enable you to plan your own itinerary practical information is presented clearly on the trail maps. This includes walking times for both directions, all places to stay, camp and eat, as well as shops where you can buy supplies. Further service details are given in the text under the entry for each place. For a condensed overview of this information see Itineraries on pp30-6 and the towns and villages facilities table on pp32-3. For overview maps and profiles see the colour pages at the end of the book.

TRAIL MAPS Scale and walking times 1 The trail maps are to a scale of 1:20,000 (1cm = 200m; 3 /8 inches = one mile). Walking times are given along the side of each map and the arrow shows the direction to which the time refers. Black trian- gles indicate the points between which the times have been taken. See box below about walking times. The time-bars are a tool and are not there to judge your walking ability. There are so many variables that affect walking speed, from the weather conditions to how many beers you drank the previous evening. After the first hour or two of walking you will be able to see how your speed relates to the timings on the maps.

o Important note – walking times Unless otherwise specified, all times in this book refer only to the time spent walking. You will need to add 20-30% to allow for rests, photog- raphy, checking the map, drinking water etc. When planning the day’s hike count on 5-7 hours’ actual walking. Ridgeway-4 04&05a_Layout117/10/201620:54Page23 notes if a bath ( bath a if notes shared season. tion. To avoid clutter, not all features are marked all the time. the all marked are features Totion. all clutter,not avoid naviga- to pertinent are they when only map the on marked are features Other features Other against any potential damage or mess. or damage potential any against stay,deposit per refundable or a chargeday require tional per may others while places accept only a two-night stay, particularly at weekends and in the main the in and weekends at particularly stay, two-night a only accept places lunch of the day.the of campsites. The policy on charging for dogs varies; some places make an addi- an make places some varies; dogs for charging on policy The campsites. at or dogs), for suitable room one only have places (many room one least at in either arrangement, prior to subject again welcome, are pp191-2) and p29 also ness people the rate is likely to be higher during the week). Note that a few a that Note week). the during higher be to likely is rate the people ness of rooms is given after each entry: each after given marked. is rooms is of trail the of reach easy type and text. number accompanying The the in given are within place each of Details is that stay to everywhere almost necessary,been has places of selection some where towns large in from Apart Accommodation gradient. downward indicate heads arrow Reversed B. –– –– –– >> –– –– A–– thus: shown be would it steep and short is two the between trail the and 200m) (at B to 80m) from A(at walking that the arrow points towards the higher part of the trail. If, for example, you are Note steep. is it that show arrows two slope; the indicates trail the across arrow line. An dotted a as shown is trail the bridleway or track a on when than Other down? or Up pay to extra at weekends (whereas expect in the few can places on this route you that particularly,cater to busi- towns, tourist In room. the use permissible) if option is a lower.be may triple/quad a sharing three/four for rate person per the and higher be may double/twin a of differentif person. ed per rate the for from rate The for longer stays. Where a rooma sharing people two that the room can be used as a double or twin. See also pp18-20. also See twin. or double a as used be can room the that means also it but bed, double the share to have would four,people or two three of group a for thus beds); bunk (or beds single one/two and bed double a have room, ______om ete have either Rooms The text also indicates whether the premises have: Unless specified, rates are for bed and breakfast. At some places the only the places some At breakfast. and bed for are rates specified, Unless Rates (Ⓛ) Tr ahom r hwr om otn ut usd te ero. h text The bedroom. the outside just often room, shower or bathroom = Triple room and quoted for B&B-style accommodation are can be prepared, subject to prior arrangement; and if and arrangement; prior to subject prepared, be can room rate; this will be the same whether one or two people (or more  ) is available for those who prefer a relaxed soak at the end the at soak relaxed a prefer who those for available is ) n suite en single room (sgl) Qd for a one-night stay; rates may well be discounted be well may rates stay; one-night a for = Quad. Note that most of the triple/quad rooms bt o soe) aiiis o a or facilities, shower) or (bath S = Single, = is available, the rate for that is quot- T = Twin room, Twin = single occupancy (sgl occ) (sgl occupancy single per person (pp) based on wi-fi Using this guide 95 guide this Using ( WI - FI dogs ); if a D private = Double = (  packed – see – or

ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS Ridgeway-4 05b_Layout117/10/201621:01Page36

ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS rms Too Crumbs drink and eat to Where from £75). occ (sgl £42.50pp are rates huge!); are bathrooms the (and swish and smart both are and 2015 in refurbished were rooms The deposit). £20 346785, ______Risborough Princes 170 a a eiiu slcin f quiches, of selection delicious a has 9am-4pm) Sat 9am-5pm, Mon-Fri 344990; Fieldmouse Cheese Store & Deli snacks. savoury and cakes teas, coffees, of range usual the serving 7.30am-6pm) Sun & Sat 6.30pm, of branch a is There bites. lunchtime and for cakes coffee, stop popular a be to continues and St High the of top the at located is 8am-5pm) c.k 2/T al n suite, en all 2D/1T, .co.uk; & CycleParts Risboro’ Car To Chinnor & Thame t h ohr n o te street the of end other the At Tesco Radhuni

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Princes Risborough 171 ______% your own. There is also Radhuni ( 01844 were not serving food but they were plan- 273741, : www.radhunigroup.com/risbor- ning to. There is also a very busy fish & chip ough; Mon-Sat 6-11pm, Sun to 10pm), on % Church St, just off the High St. shop on the High St called Princes ( 01844 Just down from the library, The Bell 343751; Mon-Thur & Sat 11.30am-2pm & % ( 01844 274702, : www.thebell-risbor 4.30-9.30pm, Fri to 10pm). Finally, for late- ough.co.uk; bar Mon noon-11.30pm, Tue- night fodder there’s a branch of the pizza % : Thur & Sun 11am-11.30pm, Fri & Sat joint Domino’s ( 01844 344244, www 11am-1am), a lively bar with a decent line .dominos.co.uk/princes-risborough; daily in cocktails; at the time of research they 11am-11pm), for take away or delivery.

PRINCES RISBOROUGH TO WIGGINTON (& TRING) [MAPS 39-46] Overview This section is 12½ miles/20km (6½-8hrs), but be aware that there are many steep ups and downs to tire you out before the end is in sight. A great deal of the walking is through mature woodlands on good paths and there is plenty of variety. You’ll pass by Chequers, the Prime Minister’s country house, visit a Boer War monument on top of a hill with stunning views, and pass through the attractive and useful town of Wendover, amongst other things. If you decide you want to walk right through to Ivinghoe Beacon in one day, be prepared for a tough time. On paper the 17½ miles/28km doesn’t sound unreasonable but the steep up and down sections will leave you weary well before you get your first sight of the Beacon. From there it’s a strenuous last few miles to the end. Then there is the matter of walking from the Beacon to accommodation or to transport – a walk into Ivinghoe village is entirely possible but that would add another couple of miles. For this reason, starting the last day from somewhere closer, such as Wendover or Wigginton, can make a lot of sense. It’ll also mean you’ll have some energy left at the end of the day to cel- ebrate finishing the Ridgeway. Route The section from Princes Risborough to Wendover is very popular with both day walkers and dog walkers. The Ridgeway and Icknield Way share the same path until they are out of Princes Risborough, then they separate. The Icknield Way continues on the main track and rejoins the Ridgeway later. At the top of the first steep climb you’ll enter Whiteleaf Hill Nature Reserve (Map 40; : www.buckscc.gov.uk/leisure-and-culture/whiteleaf-hill- nature-reserve); this nature reserve is known for its variety of butterflies and wild flowers. Even if you’re not looking specifically, you’re bound to notice a chalkhill blue butterfly (see opp p65) or two and you’ll probably also see the common blue. Flowers that grow well on this chalky soil have wonderful names, such as squinancy wort and viper’s bugloss. On the west side of the hill, facing Monks Risborough, there is a chalk cross

on a triangular base cut into the hill – the Whiteleaf Cross. The history of this ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS monument is hazy to say the least, but it was recorded as far back as the mid 1750s. It’s probably been enlarged since then and now a concerted effort has been made to restore and maintain it. Ridgeway-4 05b_Layout 1 17/10/2016 21:01 Page 38

172 Princes Risborough to Wigginton (& Tring) ______After descending this hill, you come to Cadsden, and more importantly a % pub, The Plough ( 01844 343302, : theplough.pub; 4D or T/1Tr, all en suite; ; WI-FI). It’s a popular place and they charge £60-65pp (sgl occ from £75, three sharing from £150) for B&B. The menu (food Mon-Sat noon-2pm & 6.30-9.30pm, Sun noon-2.30pm & 6.30-8.30pm) features standard pub fare and main courses are served in small and large (£11.95/15.95) portions. For dogs 41) AP (M

41 HEQUERS 41) C AP (M MINS FROM HEQUERS C 45–65 MINS TO 60–90 ADSDEN ADSDEN C C 39) AP (M 39) AP (M MINS TO TURN OFF ROAD 60–90 MINS FROM TURN OFF ROAD ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS 50–70

39 Ridgeway-4 05b_Layout117/10/201621:01Page39 ______

CHEQUERS 40–60 MINS MONUMENT 40 Map 41, Chequers 173 Chequers 41, Map 42

CHEQUERS 30–50 MINS MONUMENT

ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS Ridgeway-4 05b_Layout117/10/201621:01Page52

ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS ______Beacon Ivinghoe (TringWigginton&) to 186

TRING STATION 45–65 MINS KISSING GATE 46 48

TRING STATION 30–50 MINS KISSING GATE Ridgeway-4 05b_Layout 1 17/10/2016 21:01 Page 53

Aldbury 187 ______ALDBURY Aldbury is a picture-perfect English vil- evening menu may include pan-fried fillets lage, complete with duck pond, church and of sea bass on braised fennel, kale, yellow pub. It would be a good alternative to peppers and roti potato with a spicy tomato Wigginton if the accommodation there is coulis (£14.95). full. This idyllic village has been captured Another good option for food is The % : on film many times: The Avengers, The Valiant Trooper ( 01442 851203, Dirty Dozen, Inspector Morse, Midsomer www.valianttrooper.co.uk; food Mon noon- Murders (inevitably) and, more recently, 3pm, Tue-Fri noon-3pm & 6-9pm, Sat Bridget Jones’s Diary: The Edge of noon-9pm, Sun noon-4pm; they also serve Reason. breakfast Sat & Sun 10am-noon). This pub You’ll be surprised when you look is less than five minutes’ walk from the % inside the village shop ( 01442 851233; centre of the village. The menu changes Mon, Tue, Thur, Fri 6am-5.30pm, Wed & weekly but includes daily specials as well Sat 6am-7.30pm, Sun 7.30am-4pm; in the as smart twists on standard pub fare such as winter months they close for an hour 1- smoked haddock fishcakes served with 2pm). Not only is it very well stocked and wilted spinach and sorrel sauce (£5.25) and much larger than it looks from the outside, free range pork sausages with bubble & but there is a post office (Mon, Tue, Thur, squeak and homemade baked beans Fri 9am-1pm & 2-5.30pm, Wed & Sat 9am- (£10.95). 1pm) in here as well as an ATM (the charge per withdrawal is £1.50). Red Rose Travel’s No 387 bus service operates to Tring; see pp47-51 for further Aldbury The details. Greyhound Inn

Where to stay and eat cks o Duck t Near the duck pond is The Greyhound Inn 0 20m SStocks Rd % : pond Bus ( 01442 851228, greyhoundaldbury.co stops .uk; 5D/2D or T/1Qd, all en suite, ; WI- To the Ridgeway, 1km, Ⓛ To FI Tring Railway ; ), a much filmed and photographed £ Berkhamsted Station d place. B&B costs £40pp, £70 if you’re on & Tring R Village shop, tion ta PO & ATM your own, £100/120 for three/four in a S room. The food (food Mon-Fri noon- d

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o Sun noon-7.30pm) is of a high standard and rrooper Rd there is a varied menu: you could try a T To The Valiant Trooper, 300m warm bacon, brie and red onion marmalade & Wigginton sandwich (£5.75) for lunch while the

The path rises through woodland, sometimes level, but more often than not climbing. By now there are only a few miles left and you might think it will all be over soon. Then you’ll get your first glimpse of Ivinghoe Beacon, up ahead in the far distance. The word ‘far’ is appropriate but at least the end is now always in sight. You can admire the increasingly stunning views from up here and plod on. You can also see, down to your left a large, old chalk pit, now filled with ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS water; this is a popular place for relaxing and swimming during the summer. The Ridgeway-4 05b_Layout 1 17/10/2016 21:01 Page 54

188 (Tring &) Wigginton to Ivinghoe Beacon ______

o The butterflies of Aldbury Nowers Probably tired and, with the end almost in sight, 99.99% of trekkers on the Ridgeway undoubtedly march through the woods after Tring with little thought as to what they’re actually walking through. It’s forgivable, of course, but it’s also a bit of a shame, for this scrumptious little corner of Hertfordshire countryside is actually one of the main butterfly habitats in the UK. Nobody is quite sure why Aldbury Nowers Nature Reserve (: www.herts wildlifetrust.org.uk/reserves/aldbury-nowers; open all day all year but best Apr-Aug) is so popular with our colourfully winged friends but the truth is that the reserve plays host to over 30 species – out of the 59 species commonly accepted to live in the UK. Some of the Albury Nowers’ residents, such as the meadow brown and the peacock, are commonplace enough. But several rarities also call the reserve home, including Essex skippers, marbled whites, green hairstreak, brown argus, and the scarce griz- zled and dingy skippers. Of course, you can’t just turn up and expect to see all 30-plus species in one go; some butterflies (such as the orange tip) appear early in the season and are rarely seen after June, while others appear late in the summer. But if you have the time and incli- nation, there are few more enjoyable ways to spend a warm afternoon than to take a decent butterfly guide, a little magnifying glass or similar (to spot the sometimes sub- tle differences between the species) and to sit on the slopes of Albury Nowers, tick- ing off the different species.

water takes on a turquoise colour, adding something almost tropical to the atmosphere of the place. If you are plodding your way up to the Beacon on a hot day, just the sight of it can make you want to run down there and dive right in. When you reach the road and car park (Map 48) the Icknield Way puts in an appearance once more and stays with you all the way to the end of the Ridgeway. Gradually the Beacon gets closer until you are left with just one last climb to the end. This will just about finish you off if you started the day at Princes Risborough. There is a Ridgeway information board and trig point at the end of the walk to go with the panoramic views. There are often other people up on Ivinghoe Beacon but not many who have been on the Ridgeway for the last 87 miles, for sure. Take plenty of time to relax, enjoy the views and reflect on the previous stages. When you are ready to leave the Beacon you have several choices. If you are lucky, someone might be waiting to pick you up from the car park you passed on your way up here. If not, you’ll need to walk down to Ivinghoe village. The best way to do this is to follow one of the many paths down the hillside to the main road. Be careful as it’s very steep and there are plenty of hidden holes in the ground. Most paths finish near to the B489 from where it’s a boring walk into Ivinghoe (see p190). This road is not particularly wide yet people drive very

ROUTEfast GUIDE AND along MAPS it so be careful. If you get on with it the 1¼-mile/2km walk from the top of Ivinghoe Beacon to Ivinghoe village shouldn’t take more than about 20-30 minutes. Ridgeway-4 05b_Layout117/10/201621:01Page55 ______

15–25 MINS FROM KISSING GATE (MAP 47) CAR PARK 35–55 MINS END OF RIDGEWAY 47 Map 48, End of Ridgeway 189 Ridgeway of End 48, Map

10–15 MINS TO CAR PARK 20–40 MINS END OF RIDGEWAY KISSING GATE (MAP 47)

ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS Ridgeway-4 Colour maps-Q8__Prelims Template 18/10/16 6:11 PM Page 2

Great A34 Little Stanford in WestWest Sutton Dorchester Warborough Coxwell Long Coxwell A417 the VValeale Hanney Courtenay Appleford B4508 East Wittenham B4016 A407 A420 Hanney 4 Denchworth Steventon Benson Fernham A417A4 Brightwell- A4130 WatchfieldWatchfield 17 Milton A41 cum-Sotwell Longcot Baulking A338 30 Milton Hill Heights DIDCOT Grove North Crowmarsh Uffington East Rowstock Harwell Moreton Gifford A417 Wallingford Shrivenham WWestest Challow East Kingston West South B4000 Challow Hagbourne East A4185 WWoolstoneoolstone Lisle WANTAGEWANTAGE Hendred Moreton Hendred West Sparsholt Letcombe Hagbourne Aston A407 Knighton B4507B4507 A417 Upthorpe 4 Bourton Regis WWest East Ginge Upton Cholsey MAP 12 UfUffingtonfington GGinge North Letcombe Aston Ashbury Castle Blewbury Stoke MAP 13 Bassett Chilton Tirrold Idstone MAP 14 Court Hill Hinton WWayland’sayland’s Parva Bishopstone Turns for Moulsford Smithy B4001 MAP 15 Bury Down East Ilsley MAP 16 A338 MAP 17 car park South Stoke 012345km MAP 10 B4494 MAP 11 0 1 2 3 miles West Fawley Ilsley Foxhill Upper East Lambourn B4494 Streatley Goring South Ilsley B4000 M4 Fawley Compton Lambourn Brightwalton Aldworth Upper Baydon Upham Chaddleworth Beedon B4109 Eastbury Peasemore Ashampstead East 338 Hampstead Garston A338A Great Upper Aldbourne B4000B40 34 Norreys 00 Shefford A Basildon 4009 B UfUffingtonfington 300m Turn for Castle 300m Turns for East Ilsley: Bishopstone B4001 Court Hill 1st & 2nd; 3rd; 4th 250 Court Hill TurnT for 200 TTurnurn for Wayland’sWayland’s urn for B4494 150 Foxhill Letcombe 150 Bury Down A34 Ashbury Smithy Letcombe 100 Regis 100 car park Streatley 50 50 Goring 0 miles 2233354 556667778889991100 11 0 miles 23 4 5678910 11 12 13 14

Ivinghoe Beacon

Maps 10-16 Court Hill Foxhill to Court Hill Foxhill 11½ miles/18.5km – 3¾-5½hrs Overton Hill NOTE: Add 20-30% to these times to allow for stops

1st Proof Title: Ridgeway Job No: W1016-52/GekInk Ridgeway-4 Colour maps-Q8__Prelims Template 18/10/16 6:11 PM Page 3

Great A34A Stanford in 3 WarboroughWarborough West 4 DorchesterDorchester Coxwell Little 8 SuttonSutton 0 A LLongong 45 the Vale Hanney ApplefordAppleford Coxwell B 41 CourtenayCourtenay 0 7 East WittenhamWittenham A4074A 2 B4016B4 40 A4 Hanney 016 74 Denchworth SteventonSteventon BBensonenson Fernham A Brightwell-Brightwell- 4 8 A4130A 1 3 4 Watchfield 7 ccum-Sotwellum-Sotwell 3 MiltonMilton A4130A4 13 Longcot Baulking A 130 0 MMiltonilton HHillill HeightsHeights DIDCOTDIDCOT Grove NorthNorth CCrowmarshrowmarsh Uffington East RowstockRowstock HHarwellarwell MoretonMoreton GiffordGifford A417A417 WWallingfordallingford Shrivenham West Challow EEastast Kingston WestWest SSouthouth B Challow HHagbourneagbourne 4 EEastast A4185A MAP 28 0 Lisle WANTAGE HendredHendred 4 MMoretonoreton 0 Woolstone 1

8 WWestest 0 HHendredendred A4074A 5 Sparsholt 4 Knighton Letcombe HHagbourneagbourne AAstonston 0 B4507 7 Regis A417A UpthorpeUpthorpe 4 Bourton WestWest 4 UptonUpton EastEast GingeGinge 1 CholseyCholsey 7 Uffington GingeGinge NorthNorth Letcombe MAP 19 AstonAston Ashbury Castle BBlewburylewbury StokeStoke Bassett ChiltonChilton TirroldTirrold Idstone Court Hill Hinton 1 Wayland’s 0 MAP 27 0 TurnsTurns fforor MMoulsfordoulsford Parva Bishopstone 4 MAP 18 Smithy B BuryBury DownDown EastEast IIlsleylsley A SouthSouth SStoketoke 3 carcar parkpark 3 MAP 22 B4494B 8 4 4 MAP 23 9 4 WestWest MAP 20 IlsleyIlsley Fawley MAP 26 Foxhill Upper EEastast B4494B Lambourn 4 MAP 21 SStreatleytreatley GGoringoring 4 IlsleyIlsley 4000 South 9 B 4 MAP 25 M Fawley MAP 24 4 ComptonCompton Lambourn BBrightwaltonrightwalton AldworthAldworth Upper Baydon Upham B Chaddleworth BBeedoneedon 41 Eastbury 09 PPeasemoreeasemore AshampsteadAshampstead 8 East 3 3 HampsteadHampstead A UUpperpper Garston Great 4

Aldbourne B 3 NorreysNorreys 4 9 00 A34A 0 BBasildonasildon 0 Shefford 0 4 B4009B Uffington 300m Turn for Castle 300m300m TurnsTurns fforor EEastast IIlsley:lsley: Bishopstone B4001 CourtCourt HillHill 1st1st & 22nd;nd; 33rd;rd; 44thth 250 Court Hill 200200 Turn for Wayland’s Turn for B4494B4494 150 Foxhill 150150 BuryBury DownDown AA3434 Ashbury Smithy Letcombe 100 Regis 110000 carcar parkpark StreatleyStreatley 50 5050 GGoringoring 0 miles 234 5678910 11 0 milesmiles 223335 4 55666777888999101100 1111 1212 1313 1414

Ivinghoe Beacon

Maps 16-25 Court Hill Court Hill to Goring Goring 14 miles/22.5km – 4¼-6hrs Overton Hill NOTE: Add 20-30% to these times to allow for stops

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n a h

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o g

s t h a d

s l n

n n e i

i 8

m Aldbury A Aldbury FINISH

e u v Beacon B Beacon

g 4 48 48 Ivinghoe I Ivinghoe

h D Dunstable Dunstable

CChesham 6

WiggintonW e 7

e r o 4 47 47 o

BerkhamstedB 2 h 7 e

3 s 6

e g n 1 n 4 46 46 d

d g

n 4134 o i n 3 n 4 n t i A u

i h 5 v

m 4 44 44 r s

EEnd I Ivinghoe Ivinghoe

o 4 45 45

g 3 t 3

i Tring T i Windsor W Windsor

BourneB 43 4 43

P Pitstone 3 Pitstone

HighH

M M3 y M3

8/9 1 1 1 d

WycombeW

A A4

A4 2

8 e M M4

1 M4 4 42 1 42

4 v 4b

h 41 4 41 A A418 A418 9b 4 o

n y d r

w knell 0 n u

l 40 4 40 4a e b 0 r

s 4

W Wendover 4 Wendover

e M40M

MMaidenhead A A4 A4 Bracknell 3 Bracknell Bra Br 3 39 1 39 A413A4 l

MarlowM h y h 8 gham g gh g A Aylesbury Aylesbury 3 38 38 5

s 0 OVERTON HILL – HILL OVERTON

u 5

4 10 1 e

1 kin n

o A40A IVINGHOE BEACON

c 4 okin

8 A4155A

n t 7 o

1 i Wokingham W

r 3 37 37 4 r

The Ridgeway b

e A A418 A418 s 6 P Princes Princes i d 36 3 36 5 - n R Risborough Risborough r 5 n u o s 3 35 35 o a n e e - 4 S Saunderton Saunderton n y i 3 34 34 m m 6 e h G l a a 3

11 d 3

n Chinnor C Chinnor h h

N 33 3 33 l I 3

T Thames Thames T Thame Thame e A33 A A33 i D f Henley-on- H Henley-on- n

1 4 32 32 3 f 7 3 31 31 A

u 0 4074 E N Nuffield Nuffield A ston o READING R ton Lewknor Lewk Lewknor 0 e 30 3 30 k d 7 12 Kingston Blount Kingston Blount King r e o t g 9 o k marsh f 29 2 29 n f S o i i

t r Watlington Watlington River

Kennet S

G 4 Gifford Gifford N Stoke N Stoke

o 0

4 7 rowmars row A A4 A4 3403 8 2 25 25 A 2 27 27 Goring G S Stoke S Stoke Crowmarsh C Crowmarsh 8 h 28 2 28 d t ce ces ices r r 6 0 y Bicester Bicester o o 2 26 26 f 4 y e 4 l w g e M40 M 4 t 24 2 24 y d n s l a M4M r i l l l 3 e u Aldworth A Aldworth o r 23 2 23 a t b h 9 7474 Streatley S Streatley w Cholsey C Cholsey W Wallingford Wallingford A40 2 2 22 22 e ord n l xfo x o B Blewbury Blewbury t

y 1

Oxford Oxford

t r p A34 A34 A34 A34 o 2 21 21 o t u l m i c b 0

h 9 d

2 20 20

w 3

4 3 34 Compton 34 C Compton A A Chilton A C Chilton

3 e Didcot D Didcot

13 A339A A34 A34 A34 A34 Newbury N Newbury don d 9 t 4 y 19 1 19 3 t s y Map 35 – p162 Beacon Cottage Map 36 – p163 Chalk pits House Map 37 – p166 ‘Stepping Hill’ Tunnel Map 38 – p167 Saunderton Map 39 – p168 Princes Risborough Map 40 – p172 Cadsden Map 41 – p173 Chequers Map 42 – p175 Wendover Map 43 – p178 Hale Wood Map 44 – p179 Hengrove Cottage Map 45 – p180 Hastoe Map 46 – p181 Wigginton Station Tring Map 47 – p186 Map 48 – p189 Ivinghoe Beacon A3A e s l

e e

s s e l s a

0 e e l

West W West Ilsley Ilsley I

l 4 m m a

Abingdon Abin A Abingdon East E

a I Ilsley

h A40 A h

18 1 18

T T 4 3

r r

R R R R R n e e i i v v 3

A A343 4 A343 A338 A338 A338 A338 l a l A44 A i

Wantage W Wantage

7 3

t 3 A A338

A338 d r 17 1 17

0 0 0 0 r u o

o f ombe 10km

A42 A42 A42 A42 r r Court Hill C Court Hill 16 16 e Regis Regis t u l g o 5 miles 14 o Letcombe Letcombe Letc n b 5 h u 1 15 15 s ney m r Hungerford H Hungerford 5 a

7 a Lambourn L Lambourn 4

Witney W 17

p 2.5

1 14 14 THE RIDGEWAY 8

Sparsholt 3

A417 S Sparsholt 3

A A338 e A338 3 13 1 13 n

r 4 2 u 0 0 on o

1 12 12

A4 A A4 o d n b l 1 l gdon o i 11 1 11 d t l ng h Uffington Uffington s y l Aldbourne A Aldbourne x e r h e aringd o o g u g n r r o Faringdon Farin Fa Faringdon b Foxhill F Foxhill u o u 0 Map 21 – p133 East Ilsley turn-offs Map 22 – p135 Concrete bridge Map 23 – p136 Streatley Warren Map 24 – p139 Streatley Map 25 – p141 Goring Map 26 – p143 South Stoke Map 27 – p144 Railway viaducts Map 28 – p145 North Stoke Map 29 – p153 Bachelor’s Hill Map 30 – p154 Nuffield Map 31 – p155 St Botolph’s Map 32 – p156 Ridge Farm Map 33 – p157 Icknield House under M40 Tunnel Map 34 – p161 h o Woolstone W Woolstone 1 10 10 e r o s 7 8 o b G Ashbury A Ashbury n

b g t l

o 6 r t 9 4 Ogbourne O Ogbourne St George St George S 3

a A346A opstone gton g gton de h h n 15 Marlborough M Marlborough i 6 la s N i d h c O Bish B Bish d i n e wort Pewsey D t 5 Liddin L Liddin o L Lechlade t s N r gh I e i e 4 y H Highworth v W W West West r e l 3 2 n u t SWINDON S Overton Overton O 1 s o b t r a A419A n h a o Castle Castle C l t g l 7 Barbury B Barbury 16 r i u e Hill H Hill o y v r r A417 2 START

u 4 O Overton Overton Wroughton W Wroughton 3 b

A342A e t

t l

o 1

e 6 Avebury A Avebury a t

3 Kennet &

s y A A361 A361 Canal Avon o s nce o Monkton o a R Royal Royal

Bassett Bassett B

Winterbourne

Wootton W Wootton

Cirencester 2 Cirencester

02 02 0 4

1 s

3 A4 A A4 A A31 A31 e MAP KEY MAP Map 1 – p98 Overton Hill Map 2 – p99 Fyfield Down NNR Map 3 – p100 Hackpen Hill Map 4 – p101 Barbury Castle Ridge Map 5 – p102 Smeathe’s Map 6 – p103 Ogbourne St George Map 7 – p106 Reservoir Map 8 – p107 Upper Upham turn Map 9 – p108 Liddington Castle Foxhill Map 10 – p110 Ridgeway Farm – p112 Map 11 Smithy Wayland’s Map 12 – p113 Castle Uffington Map 13 – p115 Map 14 – p120 Kingston Hill Punchbowl Map 15 – p122 Devil’s Map 16 – p123 Court Hill Map 17 – p129 Whitehouse Farm Ardington Down Map 18 – p130 Map 19 – p131 Bury Down A34 under Tunnel Map 20 – p132 z

i 4 n

l M4 M M4 e a Devizes D Devizes C Calne Calne

1st Proof Title: Ridgeway Job No: W1016-52/GekInk