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the herald Compiled and Published by Heritage Group ISSUE No.46 2013/2014 PRICE €8.00 The Corran Herald Annual Publication of Ballymote Heritage Group

Compiled and Published by Ballymote Heritage Group

Editor: Stephen

Design, Typesetting and Printing: Orbicon Print,

Cover Design and Artwork: Brenda Friel

Issue No 46 2013/2014 –––––––––––––––

The Corran Herald wishes to sincerely thank all those who have written articles or contributed photographs or other material for this issue 2 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014

Contents Page Tillie Casey - An Appreciation ( Casey) 4 Brigid O’Hara (Malcolm Billings) 5 Remembering Clare Walsh 7 John Doddy, A ‘Rebel’ Cleric (John Mc Ternan) 8 Members of Ballymote Tennis Club (Provided by Pearse Brady) 9 A strange thing happened on the way to the dance (Michael Farry) 10 The place where I was born (Bernie Gilbride) 14 An Irish Emigrant of the Fifties (Joan Gleeson) 14 Faster, Higher, Stronger: My experience of the Olympics (Conor McDonagh) 15 Synge’s Chair on Irishmaan (Bernie Doyle) 17 Inishmaan (Bernie Doyle) 17 Three stones and a well-dressed man: The story behind the story (Martin A Timoney) 18 Two giants of Irish life (PJ Duffy) 23 Further light on the linen Industry in 18th Century Ballymote (John Coleman) 24 History and Tranquillity at Tobernalt (Bernie Gilbride) 30 Classiebawn and the Assassination of Lord Mountbatten at Mullaghmore: A Retrospective (Joe Mc Gowan) 32 A season in the Carrowmore Meadow (Lynda Hart) 36 The Ballad of Corran Park (Neal Farry) 37 Chapel Hill (Mary Kelly-White) 38 Wedding Bells in 1914 (Submitted by Padraig Doddy) 39 The Ballymote ICA choir in the 1970s 40 in Ulysses (Neal Farry) 41 Ballymote 1915-1921 (Mary Gaffney) 46 A Mother’s Death (Submitted by Alfie Banks) 48 Underground Streams and Canals without water (Bernie Doyle) 49 The Sligo Port Strike of 1913 (Padraig Deignan) 50 Cillin Monastic Site (John Higgins) 57 Down on the Farm in the 20th Century (Kathleen Fairbanks) 58 A manly Sport (Padraig Feehily) 60 Opening night of the Art Deco (Adapted from remarks by John Perry TD) 61 The Village Station (Kathleen Fitzmaurice) 62 World War 1 Casualties from the of Coran (Neal Farry) 63 Inquisition in Ballymote 1593 and 1617 Jim( Higgins) 64 Count Charles O’Gara 1699 - 1777 (Maura O’Gara-O’Riordan) 66 Photograph of the pupils of Emlanaughton National School in the 1940’s 69 ‘Vanished Shop Fronts’ (Photographs collected for the Gathering photography exhibition) 70 Mining in the Connaught Mineral Field (Pat Hughes) 71 The Irish Revolution 1912-23 (Neal Farry) 75 James Daly and the Land League - The Sligo Connection (Neil Mongey) 76 Heritage Weekend 2012 (Paddy Conboy) 77 Mayo Churches, and More (Micheal Murphy) 78 Headed paper of Hannan’s of Market Street from a receipt of July 1903 81 Dedicated to Sligo : Thirty - Four Essays on Sligo’s Past (Martin A. Timoney) 82 Photography of the Corran Park Committee in 1949 84 The Origins of as a seaside resort (John Mc Ternan) 85 Views on the Past (John Coleman) 86 The Ballymote Gathering Photographic exhibition (Submitted by Mary Cawley) 87 Ballymote Boys National School Class group 1959 90 Photo of Co-op staff taken in 1968 90 Knockminna First Holy Communion 2013 91 First Holy Communion class 2013, Scoil Mhuire Gan Smal, Ballymote 91 Ballymote Heritage Group 92 Sponsors 92

3 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 Tillie Casey – An Appreciation David Casey

The death occurred on 25 May 2013 of Matilda (Tillie) Casey nee Walshe at her residence. She will be sadly missed. Tillie was a devoted patron of Ballymote Heritage Group and along with her late husband Stan was a long-serving and loyal committee member of the group. Tillie and Stan were enthusiastic and loyal promoters of all the heritage group activities. Tillie enjoyed attending all these activities and was a wonderful ambassador for the annual Heritage weekend held in August in Ballymote each year for the past 25 years. She had a deep knowledge and appreciation of Irish heritage and embraced the culture and heritage of pharmacy and helped them as they culture in all its manifestations. Ballymote and its environs. performed their duties, and she was She was born in Swinford, Co As well as her friendly and always ready with an encouraging Mayo in 1917 at a momentous time affable nature, Tillie was active in word. Tillie worked in the pharmacy in Irish history. Her parents Dominic her support of many community up to three weeks before her death and Mattie Walshe, from the south activities and events. Her enthusiasm and her presence in the pharmacy of , had moved to Swinford and love of life and her gentle way will be sadly missed especially where her father was a pharmacist with people has been remarked upon by her daughter Mattie and all her and opened one of the first Medical by many. She went out of her way wonderful staff and customers. Halls in the west of Ireland in 1912. to help others without any fuss and Tillie was a woman of strong Tillie was always very proud of her nothing was any trouble to her. Her faith and devoted to her church. She south of Ireland heritage. encouraging words have often been was predeceased by her elder son, Tillie’s father died when she was mentioned and people have spoken Martin, in 1996, and by her husband just sixteen years old. The family about leaving her company feeling Stan in 2004. business was run by a manager and much better. Her lovely welcoming smile and later on Tillie trained and qualified Tillie’s love of and interest in her very positive approach to life as a pharmacist in before pharmacy has also been spoken will be greatly missed by her family, returning to manage the pharmacy of by many. During her 71 years staff, many friends, and all who in Swinford. working as a pharmacist, she always knew her. In 1952 Tillie married Stan Casey welcomed new developments and She is survived by her daughters, who practiced as a dental surgeon technology as they were introduced Mary and Mattie; by her son, David; in Ballymote and Tobercurry. Stan into pharmacy over the years. Tillie and her brother, Matt; her sister in then concentrated on his dental attended IPU meetings both in Sligo law Rose; her sons-in-law, practice in Ballymote. Tragically and Donegal and liked to meet and by her grandchildren and Stan developed eye problems with her colleagues. She was very great-grandchildren, nieces and which prevented him practicing as a encouraging of and loved all her nephews and extended family. dentist. Tillie then opened her own staff. She also loved to see students Ar dheis de go raibh a h-anam pharmacy in Ballymote in 1961, and coming to do work experience in her dilis.

4 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 Brigid O’Hara Malcolm Billings

“What do you want to be called when we are married?” I asked. “Brigid O’Hara of course, what else!” Brigid had no intention of subsuming her Irish heritage in an ordinary English name such as Billings. I would just have to get used to confusion at the school gate, and being known by the milkman as Mr O’Hara. Brigid’s Irishness never waned. It was a strong feature of her personality throughout her life, and, along with her calm integrity, her Irish persona won many hearts. Brigid and I met on her first day at Bush House – the headquarters of the World Service of the BBC – and neither of us forgot that first encounter. She had followed her older sister Jillian who had worked for a few years in the Education Department at Broadcasting Brigid at the bow of the USS Costitution in Boston Harbour House. Both these O’Hara daughters were interested in the arts and music with a family she knew well. In her Henrietta and Sebastian were growing when they were growing up at Munnar early 20s she sailed with them on the up they would be ushered into the in the tea-growing hills of south India. Queen Elizabeth to New York, and on to broadcast box, along with Brigid’s step- Frank O’Hara managed a tea estate and Norfolk Virginia where the family was children Alexia and Warwick, to hear had married the daughter of another tea posted. Whenever the opportunity arose some of the world’s great orchestras and planter. The family, however, returned to Brigid took off by herself to discover soloists. Sligo in the early 1950s after Frank had the United States on Greyhound buses Brigid was generous with her time, inherited Coopershill at . that criss-crossed North America. It very proud of the World Service, and In Sligo, Brigid’s flair for dancing and was invaluable experience for a young welcomed many visitors from Sligo. acting was encouraged by the gifted woman who would later choose the She recalled through a gale of giggles Sligo teacher Sybil Higgins. Sybil BBC World Service for a career. As how Anthony Kitchin, one of many believed Brigid had the makings of a with everything else in life Brigid threw members of Brigid’s family and friends, ballerina and arranged for an audition herself wholeheartedly into the BBC. was shown around the offices and with the formidable Dame Ninette de She joined the Drama Society and took studios at Bush House. Brigid took Valois, head of the Royal Ballet School advantage of the stables in Hyde Park Anthony into the ‘live’ continuity studio in London. Brigid passed the audition when members of the BBC riding club where Anthony confided that he always and was offered a place. She was nine could canter along Rotten Row in riding listened to the World Service in the years old. But in the early 1950s the kit, complete with a reinforced riding middle of the night when he was calving. Royal Ballet had no boarding house bowler hat. Quite useless if one fell off, That caught the announcer’s attention as for young ballerinas and it was not but very stylish. he was a potter in his spare time. “What practicable for her to live in London. Brigid greatly enjoyed her production do you carve?” he asked. “Calves,” The decision was taken to send her as role during the BBC Proms every responded Anthony, wondering if they boarder to Elmhurst Ballet School in summer at the Royal Albert Hall. She were speaking the same language. Just Surrey where she studied theatre and used her knowledge of music to edit the as puzzled, the announcer turned to his dance, until returning to Dublin to Radio 3 live broadcasts to fit a smaller script to announce the next programme. continue her more formal education. slot in the World Service transmission Sligo was important to Brigid Before joining the BBC Brigid spent schedule. The broadcast box in the throughout her life. Twice a year, at two years in the United States as au pair Albert Hall went with the job and as the Christmas and for the summer holidays,

5 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 we piled the children into the car, and the Viking settlement in Dublin. the route of the 1908 Hejaz railway from drove on to the B+I ferry at Liverpool The greatest challenge Brigid and I Damascus to Medina – the railway that and crawled up the N4 to Riverstown had to face was the aftermath of 9/11. Lawrence of Arabia sabotaged during to the cranky little cottage we bought Brigid and I were asked to record a the First World War – and that was near Coopershill. Brigid loved seeing documentary on location as firemen deemed as a hostile place to go. Irishness seeping into her London-born and a team of workmen continued to A light dusting of snow did not augur children and would happily have lived in explore the crater left by the collapse of well for a week’s ‘desert’ training in the Sligo all the year. For several years she the World Trade Centre. grounds of a big country house in Surrey organized an evening’s entertainment The epicentre of the clean-up was where we and other members of BBC in the sheep shed by the river at the 18th century Church of St Paul, on staff would learn how to survive capture Coopershill. ‘The Sheep Shed Players’ the edge of the disaster area. We were and interrogation by an unknown, staged musical evenings among bales hardly prepared for what we saw from unspecified regime. Brigid learned how of straw, and on two occasions featured that church on Wall Street: the railings to crawl out of a land rover in the middle excerpts from A Midsummer’s Night’s of the churchyard were hung with of a minefield and test a safe path ahead Dream and Oscar Wilde’s Importance tributes, flowers and pleas for news using biro pens (which journalists were of Being Ernest. of those who had disappeared. Brigid supposed to have at the ready) and metal Rounding up the reluctant famers had shown how strong she was in the coat hangers (which were not usually to attend rehearsals was a challenge. face of uncertainty and danger in many part of a producer’s kit). Brigid knew Young famers like Mark O’Hara had to parts of the world, but this became her about mines from programmes we had be persuaded to play the part of Thisby greatest test as we both looked up at made in Cambodia and Sri Lanka, but in an old dress and a straw wig, in the the blackened trees in the churchyard. the main exercise, surviving capture and ‘play within the play’. Brian O’Hara Branches of the trees had snared objects interrogation ending with a firing squad, as Pyramus seemed to ad lib his way from the collapsed trade centre when a was new to us. Tough guys in uniform through the plot and it was noted that tsunami of pulverised rubble hit lower stopped our land rover, accused us of Joan O’Hara, in her early 80s, was the Manhattan. spying, and escorted us to a rusting and only member of the cast to have learnt her Caught in the trees were waiter’s abandoned WWII army base. Brigid lines word perfect. Brigid was intensely aprons blown out of the top floor was hooded and shouted at. I had to interested the history of Sligo and the restaurant as the building collapsed. keep reminding myself that it was only role played by her family that spanned Brigid, as usual remained calm and an exercise while Brigid dismissed the many centuries. She had a reader’s with her emotions under control. It interrogator’s accusations: “Of course ticket for the British Library in London was a testing time for both of us as we I’m not a spy. I’m from the BBC.” to do research whenever possible. In followed workmen into buildings on the After much bullying and shouting London, dancing was relegated to a edge of the site, scuffing through inches the main accuser plunged his hand into hobby with weekly dance lessons in a of debris and dust across a carpet of grit Brigid’s Barber pocket and triumphantly studio in Covent Garden, but her love made up of crushed concrete mixed brought out a handful of rifle bullets. of music continued and grew to be an with some pulverised human remains. “Explain that?” he said. “I don’t have important and life-long interest. Brigid Brigid remained focused on the purpose to,” Brigid answered, “You must have joined the Medici Choir in London and of the programme – to work with put them there yourself.” Brigid was sang in two or three concerts a year in museum officials who were trying to offered clemency if she confessed; it London along with performances in collect material evidence of the tragedy was all real enough for some members European capitals including Berlin and for future generations. of the captured staff to agree. Not Rome. Until 9/11 most producers and Brigid. “I’m from the BBC and what In the early 90s Brigid resigned presenters working for the BBC or you say is ridiculous!” She was led from the BBC staff and together we independent production companies out to a face a firing squad where once set up an independent production enjoyed a remarkable degree of editorial again she was asked to confess. “Do company. Brigid became the producer freedom and permission to travel what you like I’m not a spy”. Suddenly of ‘Heritage’, a long running series on as required. Health and Safety was the spell was broken with: “It’s all archaeology and conservation which then invented along with form-filling over. Relax everyone.” The hoods were took us all over the world to record and more careful vetting of projects. removed. One of our colleagues needed archaeologists on location. Always Armchair safety experts defined areas of counselling. Brigid called for a cup of drawn to Irish archaeology, we made danger and demanded special training tea. Intimidation? She did not know the programmes on the excavation of for ‘hostile environments.’ Brigid and I meaning of the word. Carrowmore, the Valley of the Boyne, had devised a programme that followed We both needed a break in Sligo

6 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 before the next recording and flew to What have you been doing?” Again Brigid handed over the bullets and Dublin and on to the airport in the sand Brigid stayed calm but this was not a promised not to do anything like that dunes at Strandhill in Sligo. Refreshed, game, and ‘I’m from the BBC’ was not again, and, very relieved and chastened, we returned on the same flight to enough. Brigid suddenly remembered we caught the flight. Dublin. Going through security to board the interrogation in the snow in Surrey. Brigid died from ovarian cancer the London flight Brigid was called The unlikely story tumbled out. The in June 2012. During her interment over and asked to empty her Barbour bullets had travelled undetected through ceremony at Coopershill on 23 pockets. Bits of binder twine, a dirty four airports, but without our BBC 2013 the young harpist, Aine Martin, a handkerchief, a bandaid, a Fisherman’s identity passes (we are on holiday Brigid distant cousin of the O’Haras, played Friend cough lozenge, and a few explained) the story about training for a one of the pieces of music that Brigid favourite sea shells collected on walks hostile environment sounded a bit thin had always wanted to hear: ‘A tribute along the beach. Then out came the two at Terminal 1 in Dublin. The Guard was to Kean O’Hara.’ (Kean the musician.) bullets that had showed up clearly on the thinking of taking us off the flight and It was by O’Carolan, the 17th century luggage scanner. “How do you explain phoning M15 when I found a stray letter blind harpist whose life and influence these?” The member of the Gardaí was in my brief case addressed to the Head on Irish music Brigid had planned to not smiling. “Where have you been? of Archaeology, Riyadh, Saudi Arabia. record for the BBC.

Remembering Clare Walsh

Heritage Group members were saddened to learn early in 2013 of the death of Clare Walsh, a long- time supporter of the annual Heritage Weekend lectures and regular contributor to The Corran Herald. Clare wrote no less than 15 articles over the years: one in issue number 22, one each year from number 29 to 38 and three in number 44. The subject matter was wide – from Bianconi to the history of knitting. She took great note of local lore and of course wrote of her beloved . Although she had reached her mid 90s, Clare continue to attend lectures up to last year. Clare represented all that is best about the Ballymote Heritage weekends. She was full of enthusiasm and curiosity and took great pride in her native place. We will miss her contributions to discussions after lectures. Above all, we will miss her bright eyes and smiling face. Ar dheis De go raibh a h-anam dilis.

7 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 John Doddy, a ‘Rebel’ Cleric John C McTernan

John Doddy, a 19th century Achonry O’Rorke, ‘and involved his abettors preventing the parading and threats priest, was something of a ‘rebel’ and followers, who were numerous, of Doddy’s supporters. They had a who openly challenged the authority in the guilt of disobedience and number of the paraders summoned of his and as a result was the schism.’ Eventually in 1824 Bishop and others arrested but their efforts subject of much comment and not a McNicholas found it necessary to to restore order were counteracted by little criticism both locally and in the remove Doddy from the administration the underhand agency of a Brunswick wider media of that era. However, of the parish and appointed Bernard family in Ballymote, who had taken according to the late Martin Kelleher O’Kane in his place. However the Doddy under their special protection of Doocastle, a noted local historian, incumbent, strongly supported by a and seemed to tacitly sanction the ‘Doddy was much maligned and majority of his parishioners, refused violence of his followers. numerous untruths were told about to give way. Eventually, one Sunday In July 1830 the Observer reported him.’ morning, Patrick Durcan, the diocesan that those who organised themselves John Doddy was born at Roadstown, administrator, acting on the Bishop’s in favour of Rev Mr Doddy still Bunninadden, in 1789. He was instructions, and accompanied by the persevered in ‘their lawless practices.’ educated at Maynooth, matriculated leading Catholic laymen of the parish It reported that during the previous in September 1809, and and was – namely Joseph ‘Mor’ Mc Donnell week notices were posted on numerous ordained in June 1813. He was of Doo Castle, Daniel O’Connor of houses intimating that unless they subsequently appointed a curate in Roadstown and Tim MacDermot of abandoned their support of Rev Mr Collooney where he ministered for a Kilturra – forcibly removed Fr Doddy O’Kane, their legitimate pastor, and number of years. Tradition has it that off the altar and onto the church frequented the chapel forcibly taken during that period it was brought to his grounds. It is said that most of the possession of by Doddy, their houses attention that a young child who lived congregation followed, leaving only a would be burned over their heads. at Somerton, then part of the Perceval handful to hear mass celebrated by the On learning of these threatened estate, suffered from a malady that newly appointed Bernard O’Kane, PP. outrages Joseph ‘Mor’ McDonnell, a defied all medical efforts to cure. Fr Doddy subsequently departed from resident of the parish, attended Mass Doddy was asked if he could stay the the area and life returned to normal in in Bunninadden and in his capacity hand of nature and was later credited Bunninadden and surrounding areas. as a resident magistrate addressed with saving the child’s life. Tradition However, following his return in the congregation seeking information has it that in return the Percevals gave 1829, after an absence of four years, from those on whom the notices had a site in Bunninadden on which the old hostilities surfaced again. Despite been served as to the identity of the present church was built in 1831-32. the prohibition of Bishop McNicholas miscreants who threatened them. No In 1819 Doddy was appointed he claimed the parish, and with the information was provided on that parish priest of Bunninadden in help of friends and relations took occasion, but promises were made that which capacity he quickly got into forcible possession of the old chapel any illegal threats in the future would difficulties, initially with the civil at Killavil. In June 1829 the Sligo be reported to the said magistrate. authorities by stoutly refusing to take Observer reported that Doddy’s In a parting comment the Observer an oath of supremacy, a necessary supporters ‘frequently parade from expressed the hope that Doddy would requirement for Parish Priests in the one chapel to another marching in cease to be instrumental in continuing pre-Emancipation era, and also for regular array, armed with sticks and a system that had led to such infamous officiating at a prohibited wedding. threatening the other parishioners who conduct. Both these events brought him into solely through the mild persuasions of The ‘rebel’ cleric, then residing at headlong collision with Patrick their legitimate pastor are withheld Roadstown, where it is said he opened McNicholas, the then bishop of from giving battle.’ The Observer a small church for the benefit of his Achonry, with whom Doddy was non report also stated that a number of followers, gained further notoriety co-operative if not openly hostile. neighbouring magistrates, including in 1829 by attempting to prosecute ‘This resistance to his superiors Revd John Garret of Ballymote, Joe to capital conviction his brother, occasioned deplorable tumults in the ‘Mor’ McDonnell and Daniel Jones Thomas, for the theft of a mare. In parish,’ wrote county historian Terence of Benada, interfered with a view to the course of his evidence at the

8 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014

Sligo Assizes he stated that he had were reported in some detail in the Doddy: I may yet, perhaps. I have as been a parish priest from 1817 to Sligo Observer. They included some good a right to be a Bishop as you 1824 before being suspended by his witty exchanges between Fr Doddy have to be a Judge. bishop, and afterwards spent some and Judge Blakeney: time in England but on his return had On the conclusion of the evidence not been reinstated to his parish. He Judge: Have you been reinstated in the case was dismissed. claimed ownership of a farm which your parish? Bishop McNicholas later reinstated his brother, Thomas, had attended to Doddy: No, Sir. Fr Doddy after he had shown signs of in his absence and collected the rents. Judge: Why, your Reverence ? reform. In his latter years he lived in They both lived together at Roadstown Doddy: The oppression of my Bishop the vicinity of Bunninadden where he and on the night of January 5th, 1829, Judge: Unfortunately, Doctor, you died in March 1869, aged 80 years. Thomas stole the mare which Fr are out of your dues since you were According to local tradition he lies at Doddy claimed was his, having been suspended? rest in an unmarked grave in Kilturra purchased out of his ‘oats money’. Doddy: Yes, I am. cemetery. His brother, Thomas, who The mare was subsequently sold to Judge: That’s a great misfortune for had a leasehold of thirty acres in one Andrew Doddy (relationship, if you are, no doubt, very fond of money. East Ballinvalley, or Roadstown, had any, not stated) for £13, and this gave Doddy: Yes, and so are you, I believe. predeceased him in 1859 and was rise to the court proceedings which Judge: You ought to be a Bishop. survived by his wife, Anne.

Members of Ballymote Tennis Club, probably in the late 1920’s . The photograph was taken in the castle where the court was located. If any reader can put names to faces please let the editor or any member of the Heritage Group know and the information can be published next year. Photograph provided by Pearse Brady, Cloonlurg

9 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 A strange thing happened on the way to the dance: An encounter in Sligo between two military men Michael Farry One of the fascinating discoveries I and Ballymote make no mention made while researching the history of the reprisals which they were of the War of Independence period undoubtedly involved in. His and the in Sligo for the recently-published troops’ respect – and sometimes even Sligo: The Irish Revolution 1912- admiration – for the activities of the 1923 ( Press, 2012) IRA breaks through at times. was that of a typewritten account, In response to increased activity by the including some photographs, by IRA in the second half of 1920, the 1st an officer of the Bedfordshire and Battalion had been moved from Belfast Hertfordshire Regiment covering the to Finner Camp near Ballyshannon on activities of the 1st Battalion of that August 20. C Company, comprising regiment while stationed in Ireland. just over 100 men, took over Sligo Picture of Michael J Marren from The account, now in the Bedfordshire military barracks. The 1st Battalion the Sligo Champion, 30 July, 1921 and Luton Archives, Bedford, East Yorkshire Regiment, based at covers the battalion’s activities in , operated in south Sligo until Belfast, , Donegal, Sligo, the end of February 1921, when who were not on the run for specific and Leitrim from 1920 the Bedfordshire Battalion moved operations. Road-trenching, tree to their departure after the Treaty in headquarters from Finner Camp to felling and destruction of bridges early 1922. Boyle and took responsibility for restricted the mobility of the Crown This ‘summary of events’ written Sligo, Leitrim and north Roscommon, forces, and foiled the many large scale by Captain A.L. Dunnill provides a C Company remaining at Sligo. round-ups they conducted. The IRA’s valuable insight into the activities, Jim Hunt was O/C of the Gurteen local knowledge and the availability tactics and attitudes of the British Battalion IRA and Michael Marren of replacements when officers were forces during this period. It is a day- of the Ballymote Battalion at this arrested also helped the IRA columns by-day diary recording the incidents time. In early 1921 each had a small, to survive. which came to the army’s attention, well armed, and The railway line between Ballymote and any action taken. It is an they were able to engage in small and Kilfree Junction and the branch official history rather than a personal scale activities which kept the enemy line from Kilfree to diary, and Dunnill’s accounts of the on their toes. These columns were proved easy targets for the IRA. Crown forces’ response to police flexible and were able to combine Trains were regularly stopped, killings at north Sligo, when necessary and call on Volunteers RIC and soldiers on board were disarmed and Belfast goods taken. In January 1921 an IRA party under Hunt overpowered and disarmed an RIC District Inspector and two constables at Kilfree station, and later the same day opened fire on train carriages occupied by a group of the Bedfordshire Regiment as a train left the same station. On May 6, Marren led a party of between thirty and forty IRA, armed with ten to fifteen rifles and various other firearms, which held up the Dublin to Sligo train. Two soldiers and five Auxiliaries were disarmed and dispatches taken. On 23 May two constables were wounded near Keash when an IRA party under Tom Brehony, O/C Keash, fired on A group of the Bedfordshire and Hertfordshire Regiment with a Lewis three Crossley tenders and a Ford gun at Sligo military barracks c. 1920 (Foley/Kilgannon collection, Sligo car carrying thirteen Auxiliaries County Library) and thirteen RIC. A company of

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Auxiliaries was stationed at Boyle at this time. In mid-May Jim Hunt was captured when he and two other IRA men opened fire on Ballaghaderreen RIC Barracks from a hi-jacked train. Hunt was held in Boyle military barracks. Joe Finnegan replaced him as O/C Gurteen Battalion and the raiding of trains continued, with hold-ups recorded on 19 and 26 May. The 26 May hold-up is particularly fascinating as it brought together two officers, Commandant Michael J Marren O/C Ballymote Battalion A trenched road near Ballymote (Dunnill, Summary) and Major ESC Grune, O/C Sligo st Major ESC Grune is a passenger on excitement of the moment helped me Troops, 1 Battalion, Bedfordshire this train and the details of the hold to make up my mind. and Hertfordshire Regiment. up can best be described in his own I therefore climbed down and noticed We are fortunate that in Dunnill’s words: that the owners of the herein before- document we have Grune’s first-hand ‘All off! Everybody off the train! mentioned rifles were standing up in account of the meeting at the side Everybody off the train, and hurry a trench – probably a drainage trench of the railway track at Rathmullen, up!’ – on the top of the cutting. At the end between Culfadda and Ballymote, Sitting quietly reading in one of the of this trench there was a ‘sportsman’ of two military leaders from vastly carriages of a corridor coach, I with two signalling flags, and another different backgrounds realised that the train was slowing with a pair of glasses. This is as it is recorded in Dunnill’s down, but it was not until I heard On reaching the permanent way I account: these shouts that I became aware of hesitated as to the direction I should the cause of the stop. I then heard take, and was promptly told to put footsteps scrambling along the my hands up, to keep them up, and to permanent way, and more shouts, so walk to the rear of the train. I got up and went to the corridor and There I was handed over to the man looked out of the window. who appeared to me to be the leader I found myself looking at the bank of of the raiding party. I was then a high cutting, over the top of which searched, but as I had emptied my projected a varied assortment of rifle pockets before leaving Sligo nothing barrels. I crossed quickly to the other of any importance was found. The side of the carriage and, looking out only article of military equipment of the window, saw a number of men which I possessed at the time was a standing with their various weapons swordfrog [a leather holder for a at the ‘ready’ position along the full ceremonial sword]. length of the train. The guard of the A small notebook which had been train next came bolting along the taken away from me unluckily corridor, and asked, ‘Are you armed?’ contained an old visiting card of mine. but he was too agitated to wait for a I was asked if the name on the card reply. was mine, and as my name was on the I decided to sit on in the carriage and back of my collar I thought it best to see what happened, as there were agree. I was then asked what I was not enough passengers on the train doing, and I replied that I was just Major ESC Grune (Army Museum, for one to mingle with the crowd and going into Boyle for the afternoon. I England) escape detection by that means. was asked if I was travelling on duty,

th A few minutes later a youth with a and replied in the negative, and that I Thursday, May 26 . Mauser rifle and two revolvers in was going in for a dance that evening. The Sligo to Dublin mailtrain is held a belt came along and ordered me The possession of an ordinary first- up five miles northwest of Ballymote off the train. As I was unarmed it class railway ticket instead of a duty by about fifty armed and masked men seemed as if I must obey him. He had warrant seemed to decide the point who order all male passengers to get one finger hooked around the trigger that I was not on duty. out of the train on to the permanent guard of his Mauser, and uncertainty I was then moved round to the other way. as to what that finger might do in the side of the train where the rest of the

11 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 passengers had been collected. There leave that alone and get on with your raiders proceeded to detrain. Before I found Sergeant Willett and my RASC proper job’. leaving, Marron said ‘good-bye’ and [Royal Army Service Corps ] driver, In less than five minutes he returned asked me to take a message to one of both in uniform. They were asked and started to chat with me. My anxiety his pals who was a prisoner in Boyle whether I was an officer of theirs, who was considerably relieved when he barracks. He then left the train, and I was, what I did, and so on. From said: ‘You know, I ought to take you I noticed a number of young women neither of them was a single word of away.’ I admitted gently that as he on the platform whom I suspected of any sort forthcoming. had made a fair capture I was not in a receiving the arms of the raiders for The leader of the raid now produced position to argue what he should do. I safe custody. a notebook, looked at my visiting card, then spotted that he too was becoming After this the train left Kilfree, and then started to turn over the pages a little ‘windy’. I noticed this because and nothing more of any interest of his notebook to see if he had any as he came up to me he pulled a happened before reaching Boyle, our record of my name therein. As I was at cigar from his pocket and lit it before destination, where we arrived about this time OC Troops at Sligo, I began speaking to me. While he was talking an hour after the scheduled time. to get a recurrence of that peculiar to me the cigar went out, and when feeling in the pit of the stomach that he went to light it again a moment or The incident itself, as well as all of us, heroes excepted, felt during two later, he put the opposite end in Grune’s account, are very interesting. the Great War when there was rather his mouth, and was unconscious of the It is surprising that neither officer was more ‘stuff’ than usual fizzing about. fact that he had done so. aware of the other’s existence. This By this time too, one or two He then said, ‘Well, get up in your may be an indication of the poor state unpleasant-looking individuals had carriage,’ at the same time ordering of intelligence services on both sides. It grouped themselves behind the leader the other passengers on to the train also seems strange, careless even, that of the raiding party, and I did not feel as well as the raiders; remarking that the O/C Sligo would travel unarmed at all sure that one of them would not they had been there too long. He took without a guard on a railway line take a ‘pot shot’ at me just to test the a look round to see if they were all subject to constant IRA interference. sights of his gun or out of sheer light- aboard, and than climbed up himself Grune was honest enough to admit heartedness. and came to my carriage, where there fear while Marren checked his name During this time I was able to take were, besides myself, Sergt Willett, the against those in his notebook. Grune stock of the situation, and also of driver, and our bodyguard. would have been aware of killings my chances of making a bolt for it He then opened the conversation elsewhere in the country, and that in the event of their decision being again by asking me if I knew who on 19 April the IRA had taken two unfavourable to me. he was. Naturally, I replied in the policemen from a train at Ballisodare As far as the latter was concerned, negative, whereupon he volunteered and shot them dead. He does indulge my chances were nil, for there were the information that he was Charles in a little fun at the expense of the about fifty or sixty men employed on Marron. IRA, his fear that a finger might the raid. Both sides of the train had I thought that a few soft words would suddenly slip or an IRA member been picqueted, some were removing do no harm, so I complimented him on might take a pot-shot at him. In fact the mailbags, sentries were posted the technical skill of the hold-up. This his account shows a very organised, on the engine and on the brakevan. seemed to please him very much and efficient military action with the train A number of others were visible on on the strength of it he offered me a being held up, all on board searched, the horizon, with flags, watching the cigar. The train was now on the move weapons taken, military identified, roads, etc, I imagined. again. without any exchange of fire. Grune Their arms seemed to consist largely Marron now asked me why so many may not have been as calm as he of Winchester and Service rifles. English officers wanted to resign claimed. He got Marren’s first name Hardly any shotguns were visible. All in 1914 when it was a question of wrong. And despite the cigar mistake, kinds of revolvers were carried. coercing , but nobody had Marren showed no signs of fear; In a few minutes my captor finished offered to resign now that the South rather he had the confidence to engage scanning the pages of his notebook, was being coerced. I found the the British officer in conversation on and wrote my name in it. He had now question rather a poser to answer on the way to Kilfree. apparently made up his mind on some the spur of the moment, but suggested Jim Hunt told Ernie O’Malley that course of action; what this was I was that resignations had been offered immediately afterwards Grune visited unable to surmise. He said nothing, but not accepted. He then remarked: him in his cell in Boyle, told him about however, but went off and stirred up ‘Well, we are fighting for freedom, the incident and said that Marren had the activities of the ‘mail-carriers’, political freedom, that’s all, and you asked for him. Grune asked if he had knocking over en-passant a man English officers ought to help us any requests, and Hunt requested that who was busily engaged in turning instead of hindering us.’ a pane of glass be taken out of his over the contents of a commercial By this time we were in Kilfree cell window for ventilation purposes. traveller’s handbag, ordering him ‘to Junction Railway Station, where the He also asked to be provided with a

12 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 bucket of whitewash so he could paint age when he met Marren. He served Mount Irwin. The local newspapers the cell. Both requests were granted. with the West African Regiment in reported that as the funeral cortege The incident received little publicity Sierra Leone from 1909 to 1911. left Sligo it was met by a lorry of and doesn’t seem to have been During the Great War he served British military. The officer in charge reported in the local newspapers. in France, Belgium, Macedonia, had his men dismount and stand to The Sligo RIC County Inspector’s Serbia, Bulgaria and Turkey. He was attention with arms reversed along the report for May reported 39 outrages, wounded on two occasions and was road. We have no idea who that officer including 26 robberies of arms, mails mentioned in despatches. After his was. It is very unlikely to have been etc, and two attacks on police and service in Ireland he was employed Grune, but the soldiers were members Auxiliaries. It mentioned in particular by the Palestine Gendarmerie 1922- of the Bedfordshire and Hertfordshire the 6 May train hold-up and the Keash 23. In 1937 he reached retirement age Regiment. ambush on 23 May, but not the 26 with the rank of Lt-Col in the Royal May incident. It was reported in Welsh Fusiliers. During the Second Sources the Daily Railway Situation reports World War he served as a squadron Capt. A. L. Dunnill, ‘A summary of as follows: ‘27/5/21: On 26th inst leader in the administrative and events during the period in which between Ballymote and Kilfree the special duties branch and the Balloon the 1st Battalion Bedfordshire & 13.40 hrs mail train Sligo to Dublin Branch of the RAF Volunteer Reserve. Hertfordshire Regiment was stationed was held up and boarded by armed He was promoted to the rank of Wing in Ireland, 1920, 1921, 1922’, men at 14.05. These men travelled on Commander. He died on 6 July 1960. Bedfordshire and Luton Archives and the train to a point between Kilfree His obituary especially mentioned Records Service, Bedford. and Boyle where they stopped the his leadership qualities, his sense of O’Brien, M.C., Commandant Marren train and detrained.’ humour and cheerful disposition. (Sligo?, n.d. [c. 1930]) The report to IRA headquarters of the According to the 1901 census, William Sheehan, Hearts and mines, Sligo O/C IRA, William Pilkington, Michael James Marren was then living the British 5th Division Ireland, 1920- for May, dated 5 June, did not include with his parents Timothy and Catherine 1922, (Cork, 2009). P.J. Duffy, Four Remarkable Men any mention of the Rathmullen hold- in the of Knocknaskeagh, from South Sligo (The Corran Herald up. It did mention the 6 May raid on Gurteen and was fifteen years of age. 36, 2003-2004) train between Kilfree and Ballymote This would suggest he was born in Farry, Neal, ‘Ballymote during the and the 23 May Keash ambush. 1886 and was 35 at the time of ’, Corran Herald, 4 (May In their joint witness statement to the train hold-up meeting, a year or two 1986) Bureau of Military History Thady older than the British officer. He was University College Dublin, Archives McGowan and Tom Brehony included educated at the local primary school Department: papers. a short paragraph on the hold-up but and became an apprentice at a local Sligo Brigade May activities, 5 June gave the date as 29 June, 1921. Jim carpentry and joinery works. As the 1921 (UCDAD, Mulcahy papers, Hunt also gave that as the date in his independence movement developed P/7A/19). conversation with Ernie O’Malley. he became captain of the Killavil IRA Ernie O’Malley notebooks. Jim Hunt As 1921 progressed there was no company and later Commandant of the (UCDAD, O’Malley notebooks, reduction in IRA activity in south Ballymote Battalion. He was elected P19b/133/48-9 Sligo and train hold-ups were recorded to in June 1920. Irish Military Archives Bureau of on 10, 14, 23 and 29 June, and 6 July. His men regarded him as a fearless Military History witness statements. In response to the continued IRA and fair leader who was not interested Thady McGowan & Tom Brehony activity in the area, a company of in inflicting what he considered as (BMH WS 918) the Bedfordshire Regiment moved unnecessary violence. Neither of the Grune’s obituary in The Wasp and The from Carrick-on-Shannon and were two killings of RIC in Ballymote, Eagle Vol 1, No 4 (Dec 1960) & No 5 stationed in Ballymote towards the that of Sergeant Patrick Fallon in (June 1961). end of June 1921. The truce came into November 1920 or Constable O’Brien National Archives of the United effect on 11 July 1921. At that stage in March 1921, were ordered or Kingdom Colonial Office papers. the Bedfordshire Regiment had three sanctioned by him. He was however Daily Railway Situation. CO/904/157- officers and 97 other ranks stationed a member of the court which 2 at Sligo, two officers and 53 other sentenced the British soldier know as Roscommon Herald ranks at Ballymote and seventeen John Watt to death in Glean Hall in Sligo Champion officers and 237 other ranks at the 1920. Sligo Independent headquarters at Boyle. Marren’s accidental death on the Sligo Nationalist Edmund Sidney Chawner Grune had day following the truce in July 1921 Thanks also to Nigel Lutt of the a long military career and served with was greatly mourned, and over two Bedfordshire Archives, to Steven , historian of the Bedfordshire other units of the as well thousand IRA people were said to Regiment in the Great War and to as the Bedfordshires. He was born in have marched behind the hearse on Chris Cooper of the Surrey in 1887 and so was 34 years of the way to Knockmore cemetery, Museum, Chelsea.

13 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 The place where I was born Bernie Gilbride

On the west coast of Ireland, lies Beaches to swim, surf, sail, and Rock formations, geometrically Sligo town, ski designed, Surrounded by mountains and sea, Horse riding, tennis, golf, for you With mountain peaks aligned. Ancient history here abounds or me. Where God placed me Ogham writings on rocks Garavogue River to explore, intrigues, Its beauty renowned, in Lough Gill’s islands, woodlands, History fascinates, millennia old, verses found, shores, Learning lasts to eternity, Ben Bulben, Knockrea, lnishfree, Fish, its , its streams, Where God placed me. Sluthwood, Slish Wood, Visit Tobernalt, pray, rest, dream. Hazelwood -- Dooney Rock, Magherabuidgh Under Knockrea the ‘Cromlech ‘Sonas’, Circular Road, Sligo graves,’ February 2013 Strandhill, , Ancient cemetery, prehistoric Lisadell, Mullaghmore, ways, An Irish Emigrant of the Fifties Joan Gleeson

Employment then was for the few Railway lines like tangled thread On walking out I see a church So this is what we chose to do: In ordered form before us spread With two heavy suitcases there I Take the boat across the sea The train at great high speed lurch. To earn a crust in a new country. Ate up those tracks with rampant But as I enter, plain to see Right through the foaming main greed. This church is clearly not RC The old boat ploughed Back out! I must not go within The evening bright, the sky without For miles and miles the suburbs To do so then was Mortal Sin. a cloud. grew, Farewell to homeland, a new life And mile for mile this was my view: Red double-decker buses snaked dawned Tall chimney stacks, industrial along A long adventure spawned. estates, And large black taxis followed on The backs of houses, blue Bangor I joined the throngs of Lombard At last dry land was reached slates. Street Long train pulled up, puffed, braked Here and there an old church steeple Invisible speck amongst those I meet. and screeched The Christian symbol for many A challenge beyond my comfort zone Dark night was falling as people. In this new world I’ll make my own. Landscapes new were calling. Those new beginnings were so Helmeted policemen in dark uniform By 6am we reached Euston station exciting Suspiciously eyed us on train The train spilled out like Sunday A host of opportunities inviting platform congregation. One cannot tell what the future holds Tired and weary we took our seats Paperboys ran up and down Just live each day as life unfolds. Promptly settled and dozed asleep. Sensational news from London town Read All about it! Read All about it! Some hours later the time it flew Their never-ending mantra shouted. Train guard called out strange station I thought I heard a Western storm names, Rugby, Crewe Turned out t’was roar of traffic in the All change, except the London bound morn. Who’ll travel on with rumbling sound.

14 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 Faster, Higher, Stronger: My experience of the Olympics Conor McDonagh

There is no show greater or more Over one million fans applied for place. It described the environmental captivating than the Olympic Games. tickets to witness Bolt perform at the impact of the site and how the power It boasts an almost complete cross- Olympics on 5 August 2012. When I was provided. They used low carbon section of the world’s population. Its heard that all those people had applied concrete and reduced steel in the ideal of ‘a healthy mind in a healthy for tickets for London and I got one, I construction. The Olympic Park was body’ is the cornerstone that has thought, ‘Wow, amazing, someone is chosen for an area in east London inspired generation after generation. looking down favourably on me.’ which underwent a transformational My earliest Olympic memory was renaissance. It is an amazing and History of the Olympics that of the Opening Ceremony of Seoul inspirational field of study in itself, Baron Pierre de Coubertin of France 1988, and they were always a major and one that fascinated me. realised his dream of reinventing the part of my life. I fell short of actual There were two rounds of security ancient Olympics in 1896, when the qualification as an athlete by tenths checks, like airport security, run by the first modern Olympic Games were of a second for the Sydney Olympics British army. All the attendants were held in Athens, Greece. The first in 2000. However I made up for it by more than friendly and welcoming, Olympic champion of the modern running at the World Athletics League clearly a decision that had been Olympics was an Irish-American, Series in Melbourne a few years later, taken by the London 2012 organising . He won the gold in a race which featured Asafa Powell. committee. On one occasion I had a medal with a jump of 13.71 metres It hadn’t worked out for me as an bottle of orange juice in my backpack in the men’s triple jump. He followed athlete on the Olympic stage, but I was and the army officer said “You’ve got this achievement with a bronze medal determined to pursue my passion for two choices mate, drink it here or give in the long jump, and four years later a the Olympics. Getting tickets was the it to me!” Inside the stadium was the silver medal in the triple jump in Paris next best thing, especially considering Olympic Flame. I can only describe in 1900. the Olympics were on my door-step in it as bright white flames in a huge The Olympics is held every four London. I felt this was the opportunity golden bowel. It is the symbol for the years in a different city. The reason of a lifetime, one that not many people Olympics and conjugates all sorts of for this is to increase awareness of get. Boarding the plane in Dublin was emotions and images to everyone. the Olympics, and only five nations nothing short of destiny, fulfilling a It’s the reference point for the whole have participated at every Summer life slong dream. I was privileged to spectacle. The torch had one day Olympic Games of the modern era. be finally going to the Olympics. outside the when it They are Greece, France, Great visited Dublin on 6 June 2012. Britain, Switzerland and Australia, Olympic Stadium and Park The evening began with a welcoming though not always as part of official I got what are called ‘final night message from Lord Sebastian Coe, teams. On the other hand, Vatican tickets’ to see the men’s 100 metre the head of London 2012. There City is one sovereign state never to final and also the men’s 400 metre were huge screens at every corner have competed in an Olympics. final. I will never forget the feeling of the stadium which showed spine- as I walked into the Olympic stadium tingling moments from previous Olympic Dreams those nights. I felt like a kid on Olympic Games. Events started at ‘Congratulations! We are delighted to Christmas morning as I approached 5.45pm exactly, with the women’s confirm that you have been allocated Olympic Park. I could see the lights poll vault at one end of the stadium the London 2012 Olympic Games of the stadium from the train as and the women’s shot put at the other. tickets you applied for.’ So read the it approached Olympic park train From then on it was full steam ahead email I received on 17 June 2011. Ever station. The park and stadium were until the main event of the night. The since I was old enough to understand constructed with astonishing attention stadium was packed to the rafters, what the Olympic Games were about I to detail. There is an Energy Centre in with people’s heads everywhere. I had wanted to attend, and now I knew the park which details all the different was sitting beside a lovely elderly my dream was going to come true. stages in the construction of the couple from England on my left and

15 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014

connection between Ireland and Jamaica. Everyone was so friendly and happy. Colour, creed or belief did not matter there, as everyone was part of the Olympic family and exchanged flags and tracksuits in gestures of friendship. The food was excellent in the Olympic park. There were restaurants with mile-long tables of buffets that catered for every taste and need in the world. The colour and array of food were astonishing. It matched all of the different flags and national tracksuits that were to be seen everywhere. The Orbit was a natural draw. This was a steel construction of modern art The author at London 2012 towering over the Olympic stadium. an African couple to my right. The to the audience. It felt as though The idea behind it was an expression pressure on people these days with we were all looking at an Olympic of masses of hands intertwined. It was finance and work is difficult and a athlete sent to us from the Olympic a landmark point. Every one had their situation like this for them to escape Greek gods. The look of wonder and photo taken beneath it. was amazing. joy on everyone’s face to be actually At any one minute you would see there watching this amazing man was or meet an Olympic champion past Usain Bolt astonishing and unforgettable. or present. Famous people were to be Ever since Bolt won three gold Bolt had left his mark indelibly upon seen everywhere, and they all seemed medals at Beijing 2008, the Jamaican the minds of all there, and London approachable and welcoming. sprinter has become as famous for had succeeded in its goal of achieving his electrifying personality as for his the most memorable and successful London 2012 superhuman speed. The energy in Olympics to date, impacting the London became the first city to have the stadium from the audience was social, political and educational hosted the modern Olympic Games on gigantic. When Bolt appeared the fabrics of society. three occasions. The costs of my tickets place went hysterical. Everyone was were £350 for Sunday 5th August and captivated by him and his antics. Life at the Olympics £250 for Monday 6th August. It was I might add they were incredibly The buzz and excitement were evident calculated that an audience of four entertaining. It was hard not to be everywhere. I walked around the billion people watched the Olympic emotional after watching what had Olympic Park and Olympic Village Games of London 2012. The broadcast just happened. This is clearly what on Monday evening August 6 and deal with NBC, the American network everyone wanted to see and everyone also Tuesday August 7. This privilege television station, was worth more was on their feet screaming. The was extended to me on the grounds than one billion dollars for the rights silence before the race was deafening that I had Olympic Tickets. I met the to show the London Games in the and then the noise reached a crescendo 400 metre champion Kirani James at a USA. as he crossed the finish line in a new restaurant in the Village and he kindly I had travelled over to London Olympic record of 9.63 seconds. My signed my Olympic programme the previous December to a friend’s initial thoughts were, ‘How did he and stood for photos. I also met wedding and went to see how the do that?’ The world had stood still to the Jamaican women’s relay team, preparations were going while I was see this one race and I was there in who wondered why I was wearing there. I happened to meet Jonathan the thick of it actually watching him. a Jamaican tracksuit. I informed Edwards, the former triple jump He delivered what was expected in them that I had bought it earlier that Olympic champion, and he was extraordinary fashion under enormous day in the gift shop. They were very extremely welcoming and hospitable. pressure. proud of the fact that a non-Jamaican I had my photo taken at the Olympic The 100 metre final was breath was supporting them and gifted Countdown Clock in Trafalgar taking. Bolt teased the crowd, and held me their Olympic flag in gratitude. Square. One thing I noticed from my up the final by 5 minutes gesturing I’ve always felt there has been a visit in December to the week of the

16 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014

Olympic Games in August 2012 was sprinter from Dublin who is now will never forget the deafening roar the stark difference in the mood and a physiotherapist. Later we met up when it was announced that Katie expression on the faces of the people with Ciaran and Croinne McDonagh. was the Olympic gold medal winner. in the Tube, London’s underground Ciaran was the physical therapist for Ireland had been waiting for twenty train network. People did not make eye the Jamaican sprint team at London years since our last gold medal. She contact with each other in December 2012. He was a world finalist at the was the undisputed star of the Games and I’m told with the pace of life in long jump in Seville 1999. Once in many people’s eyes, and not just London this is quite normal. However people realised we were Irish the only in Ireland. Little wonder that she was during the Olympics it was the direct question on their lips was, did we awarded an additional prize as one opposite with everyone friendly and know Katie Taylor? of the outstanding female athletes of welcoming. Katie Taylor was amazing and will the Olympic Games at the closing For the duration of the Olympic live long in our memory. Everyone ceremony. Games I stayed with friends from will remember where they were when The memories I take away from , Michael and Haley Katie won gold. The English openly London 2012 will last a lifetime. It was Mc Phillips and their two-year-old supported the Irish on that occasion. one of the best weeks of my life and daughter Orla, in their apartment in One could argue that Katie Taylor a wonderful opportunity. Well done Shepherd’s Bush. On Sunday morning was a major factor in introducing to London for an amazing Olympics, I attended the women’s marathon women’s boxing to the Olympics. and I deeply thankful that I was lucky final. I watched it from Westminster She was the darling of the games. enough to have the opportunity to Bridge along the Thames river. There She delivered by winning gold in the attend. I met with Imelda Smith and Ciaran women’s lightweight division. Ireland Fitzpatrick, a former 400 metre rejoiced and the world celebrated. I Synge’s Chair Inishmaan on Inishmaan

Bernie Doyle Bernie Doyle

Trailing upwards on stony paths Took a giant step Craggy lanes whose shoulder-high walls Into the tiny aircraft, Hide the rocks declining to the cliffs. All weighed and set A wide expanse of crags Both baggage and self. Leads onward to the poet’s chair – A circular wall enclosure, Over the broad Atlantic Open to the seaward side, Slabs of flat rock beckon, Two flat bare stone seats. Guarded by Dun Conor Sea-birds dive from crevassed cliffs And 6000 miles of stone Into the spuming green waters, Walls built by islander’s hands While all around sun and wind To protect their tiny fields, Iridescence and shadow create. Wrested from rock, reclaimed by seaweed Pillars of stone, wrought by long-dead hands Torn from the sea on their backs. Stand sentinel on the rugged coast. Now cattle, sheep and donkeys graze. Frail jewel-coloured flowers Bloom in nook and cranny, Light, gas and phone ease Visited by hoards of fragile butterflies The lot of hardy island people, Blue and orange and brown and gold. In outboard-engined currachs they fish. Ancient peace and monastic quiet By plane and boat the guests arrive Distil the essence of the poet. A summer bumper crop, Till winter seals in and Returns the island to its people.

17 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 Three Stones and a Well-Dressed Man: The Story Behind the Story By Martin A Timoney

Good information does not get spent over twenty years trying to track recorded on time and much of what down JM Conlon. Without Conlon’s does get archived deserved to have information the story of this memorial been binned. However, it is often not would have remained lost in early 20th until long after that you realise what century printed pages in The Journal questions you should have asked of the Association for the Preservation and what answers you should have of the Memorials of the Dead, Ireland archived. Research into what has been (JAPMDI) and in a Co Louth local archived, be it manuscript or printed, history for more generations. can be a never-ending pursuit! You We knew from Conlon’s manuscript get out a book in a research library, that he had a married daughter living perhaps NLI or SLLSA, and soon in Dromiskin, Co Louth, but we you need yet another publication did not have any part of her name. that the first draws you to, but there We went to Louth to see the bottom you may have to wait! Some days part of the memorial in February can be exhausting, boring, others 2011. However, if we had gone to enthralling, satisfying, much more so Braganstown more than six years than watching the crime detectives Fig 1 The Eleanor Butler memorial ago they would not have know what of 1624 ‘reconstructed’ from ‘pull’ a modern ‘story’ together. we were talking about as it had not rubbings made in Sligo and at This piece is about what you can come to light by then; it was only Braganstown discover by keeping asking questions. discovered by workers in recent years. Having spent months editing the just- in Quay St in 1989 by Noel Dunne; The correctly reassembled stone – it published Dedicated to Sligo, Thirty- Sligo City Hotel stands on the site. For had been in three when found recently four Essays on Sligo’s Past, we treat a time some people considered this to – is securely built into an inside wall here of background stories about three be part of the magnificent O’Connor of a building at Braganstown. From stones that are dealt with in greater Sligo-Butler monument, even though our record of the two stones made in detail in the book, and also a suit of that monument is intact and entire. Sligo and at Braganstown we have 17th century clothes that got a mention Mention of the discovery circulated ‘reconstructed’ the memorial, at least by way of an unrelated question from in Sligo town for a while and we in photographs in Dedicated to Sligo one of the authors. Copious references included a photo of it in A Celebration and here (Fig 1) from rubbings. The and illustrations may be found in of Sligo in 2002 (140, d) but that drew three framing stones that were found Dedicated to Sligo. not a whisper. with the triangular top part have not Sometime later the Timoney been located. Eleanor’s Triangle household had a phonecall from JM After recording the stone at The book has a trilogy of articles Conlon who gave us great detail about Braganstown and after food and relating to Eleanor Butler, Countess the bottom part of the memorial, and advice from the Thatched Cottage, of Desmond, circa 1545-?1638. It soon afterwards he sent us a twelve- Castlebellingham, Co Louth, several was she who had the O’Connor Sligo- page small copybook manuscript people, shops and the office Butler monument erected above the version of the story as he knew it. were sought out in Dromiskin, high altar in . There was no address on the signed a village centred on an Early The triangular head of a memorial manuscript and he had not given us Monastic foundation, but we drew a was found in a well at the east end a phone number! If only we had got complete blank on finding Conlon’s of the Denny’s Bacon Factory site his contact details we would not have daughter on the day. Some weeks

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[Sir] Donagh Connor, Knight [-Miles], some get buried. Bridget Timoney in Lord of the County of Sligo [= 2007 (The Corran Herald, 40, 25-26) “O’Conor Sligo ?”], who died the year published some more modern ones of our Lord 1609, and of her daughter along the road from the Sligo side Lady Elizabeth [? Fitz] Gerald, who into Ballymote and she had difficulty was buried in the of Sligo finding some of those, though not a with the aforesaid Donagh in the year milestone of another early type in 1623, caused me to be erected in the Hazelwood. year of our Lord 1624. The inscription ‘Sligo 2 Dublin’ Greater detail of the memorial is to is intriguing; surely Dublin is in found at pages 111 to 115 of Dedicated a different direction! Its position to Sligo, but the major credit goes to matches the ‘2 mile’ mark on James M Conlon for telling us that the Thomson’s 1800 map, a map dedicated lower portion was at Braganstown. to Charles O’Hara (Horner 2011, Fig 23a). The stone is two miles from A Mile Stone Sligo on what we now would consider Jim Foran offered to review Fiona to be Manorhamilton, ’s 864-page tome Streets and Belfast road, certainly not that of Sligo, Urban Development over towards Dublin. However, examining Seven Centuries, which she herself another Larkin map, that of Post published in 2008 and then he added Roads of 1805 (Horner 2011, Fig 24), Fig 2 The ‘Sligo 2 Dublin’ milestone, Horner’s Mapping Sligo in the Early it is clear that this was indeed a road Two Mile Hill, Ballyglass, Calry, Co Sligo. Photo: Martin A. Timoney Nineteenth Century: with an Atlas from Sligo to Dublin, going through of William Larkin’s Map of County Manorhamilton, Florence(court), later Peter Mulligan of the post Sligo, 1819, published by Wordwell and . I have failed to office in Dromiskin mentioned to in 2011, and Gallagher and Marie- find ‘1 mile’ and ‘3 mile’ milestones Roisín Langan, daughter of Anthony Louise Legg’s Irish Historic Towns on the Calry road. Arnold Horner and Lena Langan who have Sligo Atlas. No. 24, Sligo, published by the connections, that there was a Sligo Royal Irish Academy in 2012. archaeologist looking in the village The concept of Jim’s article was to for a Sligo-born lady whose maiden three works on mapping Sligo up to name was Conlon. Roisin mentioned the 21st century, informing us of the it to her friend, Orna Owens, whose mapping of Sligo that we have. With mother Elizabeth is the daughter of liberal editorial prompting, the article the JM Conlon we were looking for. was just going over four pages and we She told her father and he rang us with met to cut some words and sentences, great delight. James M Conlon turns but not thoughts. I had noticed that out to be living in Ballydoogan on the Two Mile Hill, Calry, was the address west side of Sligo. He confirmed the of a subscriber to an earlier volume. whole story to us and explained that Jim, who had spent much of his early in 1998 his son-in-law, David Owens, life in the Calry area, explained that loaned him James B Leslie’s History Two Mile Hill was in Ballyglass and of Kilsaran Union of Parishes in the that there was a milestone (Fig 2) County of Louth, 1908, having seen on the roadside, though it has been reference in that book to stones from moved a little to where it is now set Fig 3 Lord Walter FitzGerald’s Sligo being at Braganstown in Kilsarn into a wall on the north side of the drawing of the French coat-of- Parish. road. arms that was at Tobernalt in The inscription in Latin reads in Milestones are an endangered 1912. The spacing confirms E F, for translation: Eleanor Butler Countess species. Road widening means they get Ellen French, would be the correct of Desmond in memory of the Passion moved and road improvements means reading of Christ, and of her [2nd] husband 19 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014

(pers. comm.) thinks the milestone ago. Where is the armorial stone now? 1603, then “of Galway”, married may date to the period 1630 to 1750 A search of the site, local inquiry and Ellen French of that city. and having to do with Grand Jury. a piece in The Sligo Champion added The O’Crians or O’Creans, possibly This local name, Two Mile Hill, has nothing. The stone is lost to research! now Cryan, were major merchants, indirectly revealed a point I had missed What we do know of the stone wine, etc, in Sligo and Diarmuid Ó out on completely when reading of comes from the early 20th century. Catháin tells me that there are O’Crian travel writers record coming and Lord Walter FitzGerald described papers in Spain. These two stones, going by this route, particularly the and illustrated it and he took the then, are from a single monument and route taken by Beranger and Bigarri in initials to be ‘IF’, for I French, but they are very important in that they 1779 coming to Sligo from Dublin, so examination of the spacing confirms reflect the marriage of a Sligo trading eloquently detailed by Peter Harbison that the horizontals of the first letter family to a Galway one where, unlike in Treasure of Antiquities and in are missing. Henry Crawford (1921, in Sligo, armorial and marriage stones Celebration of Sligo, both published 30) suggested it should be ‘EF’. are frequent. in 2002. Mary B Timoney has included detail On their own these two stones do not on these stones in her article. Dr Jim fit with any of the visible sculptured Marriage Stones Higgins of Galway confirmed that stone in the Abbey though some One evening the two Timoneys this was a coat-of-arms for a female would argue that they belong with one were in Sligo Abbey checking some and that her surname was French. He of the O’Crean armorial stones under final details for the book. Mary B and Fiona Gallagher have traced an the said Abbey tower. They would took to looking at some recumbent Ellen French of the Galway Merchant more comfortably be from a house gravestones, as she is wont to do. I Family at the appropriate time, about rather than from the Abbey itself. floated my eyes along the O’Crean 1600. Ellen was married to Andrew A Well-Dressed Man armorial monuments under the tower. (FitzJohn) O’Crean (Gallagher 2008, Albert Siggins, formerly of National Days later Mary B queried me about 129) and the stone under the Abbey Museum of Ireland, long-time a drawing published (Fig 3) in The tower is for him. In a lecture to Sligo stalwart of Co Roscommon Historical Journal of the Association for the Field Club in the early 1950s (extract and Archaeological Society, offered Preservation of the Memorials of the in John McTernan, Olde Sligo, 1995, an article on Patrick Cleary from Dead: Ireland in 1912 of an armorial 34) the Ballymote-born historian J.C. Owneykeevaun. Cleary was not stone that was then at Tobernalt holy McDonagh noted that Andrew Fitz known to me but the rhythmic well; Tobernalt is at the west end of John O’Crian, pardoned 19th April, Owneykeevaun lurked somewhere Lough Gill, about two miles out of Sligo town. Instantly, the similarity with a piece (Fig 4) under the Abbey tower struck me. Cochrane (1936, 13-14) records that this stone was taken to Tobernalt from Sligo Abbey before it had been vested in the Commissioners of Public Works in 1893. Wood-Martin in 1902 in his Traces of the Elder Faiths included a photo of the altar which then had the stone incorporated in its front. The altar has been rebuilt since then. We had recollection from some 20th century sources that there was a piece of sculpture from the Abbey at Tobernalt but I had never seen it, but we should have asked those who frequented it down the century. The Fig 4 The A C, for Andrew (FitzJohn) O’Crean, coat-of-arms at Sligo altar at Tobernalt was rebuilt decades Abbey. Photo: Mary B Timoney

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Service file noted that the location had been supplied by Mary B Timoney in 1989. We could not personally give detail despite having included some paragraphs on it in A Celebration of Sligo (Timoney and Heraughty 2002, 290-291). If the National Monuments Service did not have detailed record, then the National Museum of Ireland (NMI) might be able to help. Mary Cahill came back on the phone with the NMI file in hand. The record from 1969, though fulsome on the clothes and the body, does not contain details of a find spot. All the RMP file had was mention of it being thirty yards from a prehistoric megalithic tomb. There was one ‘final’ source; track down Edward Cleary again. Fig 5 Mícheal Sheridan, Edward Cleary and the author in May 2013 at His instant response: “It was I who the findplace in 1969 of the Tawnmore bog burial; Photo: Martin Wilson found that! Never heard anything of in my mind as being in the northern the Gaeltacht, asked me about the it since! Was it important?” He was foothills of the Ox Mountains, west precise location of the Tawnamore delighted to hear that the clothes had of . When Albert bog body found in May 1969. The been conserved and are on display mentioned connections with Patrick record on the National Monuments in NMI. He was then an 18-year Tohall, a founder member of Sligo Antiquarian Society and Sligo Field Club, and Dr AT Lucas, Director of NMI, I knew this had to be genuine and good. Albert wrote the article but this Editor, as any Editor should do, asked if we could find descendants of Cleary. Mary B Timoney, who taught in Vocational School, for once in that Barony of , had nothing to offer. Next was Martin Wilson, active on many fronts across Tireragh! Wilson soon tracked down Edward Cleary to Tullylinn, Culleens. He is a son of John Cleary and grandson of Patrick Cleary c 1876- 1961, and he provided photos which added a personal element to Siggins’ article. Totally unrelated to this, Paul Walsh, Director of Archaeological Survey of Ireland and minder of the Fig 6 Front view of the late 17th Fig 7 Back view of the late 17th Record of Monuments and Places at century clothes worn by Tawnamore century clothes worn by Tawnamore the Department of Arts, Heritage and man. © National Museum of Ireland man. © National Museum of Ireland

21 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 old cutting turf for Patrick Joseph less likely, of birch. The Museum him! Was he found dead and some Sheridan of nearby Glen. In May record indicates that there was two respectful people buried him? If only 2013 Edward Cleary, born 1950, and feet of bog over him and two feet someone had made proper record of Mícheal Sheridan, son of Patrick J of bog under the twigs. Cleary and what was under Walter we would be Sheridan, born the year of the find, Sheridan say these figures are too much wiser. However, now forty-four showed us the exact location of where large, more like about 18 inches over years later, thanks to Edward Cleary Edward made the discovery in May and 12 inches under. and Mícheal Sheridan, we have a 1969 (Fig 5). The heather has covered Heraughty took all into care and pinpoint on where he lay for almost the bog cuttings but the two men kept them from deteriorating until three centuries. were precise as to the location in this John C O’Sullivan of NMI collected Despite the efforts of many in Sligo, featureless area; bog is to be seen in them. Prof Erskine of TCD examined including Dr Patrick Heraughty’s every direction. We made an accurate the bones and a considerable mass of family, Donal, Sheila, Patricia and record of the location, 38 m east of soft tissue that was recovered. Marie, Dr Des Moran, the current a modern bog road as recent as the ‘Walter’ has always been ascribed to coroner, and several in Sligo County 1960s. The prehistoric wedge tomb, the 17th century. More precise dating Council, the Courts Service and Brian 50m north of the burial position, is comes from research by Mairead and Aideen Ireland at the barely exposed above the bog surface. Dunleavy on the basis that the coat National Archives of Ireland, the The clothes (NMI IA 1969:70a-k) is of a introduced to Court by coroner’s file from 1969 has not been were published as part of the normal Charles II in 1666 and Dunleavy located. NMI acquisitions listing for 1969 in leaned towards the 1680s for it. The JRSAI, 102 (1972), 215-222, where other clothes had been much repaired Rosaline Murphy describes them in and the hat is of an earlier style. The Comment great detail. More recently, Mairead man found in Tawnamore was of the These are just a few of the stories Dunleavy weaved them into her period that Henry McCarrick, whom that dropped out of editing Dedicated classic book Dress in Ireland in 1989. Nollaig Ó Muraíle writes about in To Sligo. They came about by When the bog body was found in Dedicated to Sligo, was living in continually asking questions, casual, May 1969 the Gardaí were alerted, Sligo town. The early 17th century careless, curious questions, while Sgt PJ Duffy of Dromore West Station clothed bog-body [?] found at Killery still pushing an author, determined by was involved, and then the Coroner, Dr in Kilross Parish in 1824 is also NMI. endless digressions to be the winner Walter was found in Tawnamore but Patrick Heraughty; Michael Cahalane of the slow bicycle race over the of Sligo Field Club is mentioned on we do not know where he was from. repeatedly extended deadline. The the NMI file as well. There are many questions, having stories of our past are fragmented and The bog body, christened ‘Walter’, been to this remote location, we now linking the bits can be so rewarding. was found supine with his head to must ask. Was the raft of twigs part These loose ends would have been SSW and at an angle to the face of of a togher as Prof Emeritus Michael resolved much more easily if more the turf bank. Cleary remembers the O’Connell suggested to me? Edward fingernails being very long and that Cleary does not know of any bog questions had been asked in the the hair was long; the Museum record roads in this area. What was he doing past and the information had been gives the hair as being 30 cm long. up in this isolated area, a little over archived, improving the record that Walter, a middle-aged man, 5 ft 7 in 400 ft above sea level? Where was gets lost with the passing of time, but tall, was wearing a hat, coat, jacket, he going? The location is so far south then we would have missed out on the breeches, stockings, gaiters and shoes from the present main Sligo-Ballina thrill of the chase! Many of the thirty- (Figs. 6-7); the shoes are not shown road that it is almost within touching six authors in Dedicated to Sligo are in these photos but are to be seen in distance of both the Lough Easky mentioned throughout this article and J Royal Society of Antiquaries of and Lough Talt gaps through the Ox many are well known to Ballymote Ireland, 102 (1972), 216, fig 17. The Mountains. Was this a burial? If so Heritage Group from having lectured Museum record says the bog body why were the clothes not kept! There to it or written for The Corran Herald. was on twigs but Edward Cleary can is no indication of foul-play nor of All know the good feeling of success not confirm this as he left when work ritual sacrifice. Did he lie down in the on the never-ending pursuit! stopped when the find was made. bog and simply die? Hardly so if there These twigs were either of hazel, or, was an arrangement of twigs under 22 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 Two Giants of Irish Life By PJ Duffy Back in the closing decades of the Arthur Guinness eighteenth century there dwelled in It was during that period of the our country two gentlemen whose eighteenth century when Theophilus talents and achievements gained Moore came to the fore that also for them a secure place among the brought about the arrival of Arthur business folk of the populace, and Guinness, another Irishman whose among every householder in the land name is enshrined deeply in our history. and indeed further afield. To this He was born in 1724 in Cellbridge, day everybody is as familiar with Co. Kildare. According to legend it the names of Theophilus Moore and was while working as a bartender as Authur Guinness as they were when a young man that he discovered what they first came forward with their fine people who were drinking beer at creations over 200 years ago. the time really wanted. There would Theophilus Moore was a teacher of be strong criticism coming from the English, Greek and Latin who ran a Alexis Soyer in 1849 direction of the customer if the liquor classical academy at Milltown, then being consumed wasn’t quite up to Down through the years Patrick a small village on the outskirts of standard, and he heard comments like Tunny from Mayo was a well-known Dublin which has since that time been ‘it’s flat’ or ‘the fizz is gone out of that contributor of poems and verse to old incorporated into the city. He was stuff’ or ‘it tastes like slop’or ‘there Moore’s Almanac. He was also well also a clever mathematician who was is no substance in it’. His experience known as a songwriter. He passed totally dissatisfied with the calendars led him to believe that the regular away during the middle years of the and almanac registers of the day. He drinker was more discerning than was last century. After his passing one vowed that whenever he gave up his previously thought. of his admirers wrote the following work as a teacher he would devote After inheriting a sum of money in lines for the Lady Di section of the a good deal of his time towards 1756 he set up and operated his own almanac, which was set aside for compiling an almanac that was brewery in Leixlip town, and it was bards and composers: detailed and simple to understand. here that he perfected his own special Now Lady Di your pen now don True to his word he got to work and brand of Guinness Extra stout. His And mourn with me a while in 1764 he published his old Moore’s efforts brought him instant success For Patrick Tunney he is gone Almanac which from the beginning and Guinness Extra stout was much in Bright star of Erin’s Isle was a huge success and remains so to demand. In 1759 he moved to Dublin No more he’ll write on famed Mayo this very day. where he signed a 9,000-year lease Or sing the songs of yore Down through the years if you on a disused brewery in James Street I’m afraid it will be hard to fill happened to miss out on buying from Mark Rainsford, and it was there His place on Di’s role your yearly edition of Old Moore’s that the Guinness success story took For he was always to the fore Alamanac, the following year would off. Soon every tavern and guesthouse Brave Tunney who’s no more. not be the same without it and you in the country was busy putting up When Theophilus Moore first would be completely lost for general signs advertising Guinness Extra compiled his Almanac it was known information relating to everyday life. stout. Among the slogans: ‘Guinness as The Irish Merlin. He was born in Those of us who are still around and is good for you’. ‘Have a rest, have in 1730. He is believed can remember well back into the last a Guinness’ and ‘Guinness stout is to have started working on his Almanac century will recall the lovely poems good no doubt.’ Arthur Guinness had during his spare time in the 1760s. He and compositions submitted by people founded something that had made his was reputed to be related to the poet like Patrick Tunney, Joe Fogerty, name famous and it would remain Thomas Moore. He passed away in the Andrew McGill and many more too so for centuries to come. In Dublin first decade of the nineteenth century numerous to mention. Theophilus city his business gave considerable aged 80 years. Ever since his passing Moore was a man of ability whose employment to a large number of his Almanac became known as Old genius and foresight has ensured that workers, and grew to be one of the Moore’s Almanac. Theophilus Moore his name lives on in Irish history. main hubs of life in the city. He died is buried in Drumcondra Churchyard. in January 1803 aged 78.

23 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 Further Light on the Linen Industry in 18th Century Ballymote By John Coleman In an article in the 2009/10 issue of was told by Thomas Fitzmaurice that, such letter is worth quotation in full The Corran Herald I described the following his father’s death in 1761, as it tells us a great deal not just about significant linen industry developed his widowed mother had engaged Wakefield’s plans, but what was in Ballymote during the eighteenth ‘Wakefield’ ‘the great Irish factor already in place when he was writing century. This ambitious commercial [merchant] in London’ and that he in December 1764. It is clear that enterprise was initiated by John succeeded in increasing the industry Wakefield was only commencing his Fitzmaurice, 1st earl of Shelburne to sixty looms. Young went on to note involvement with Ballymote in 1764, (1706 -1761) in the 1750s, expanded that unfortunately after Wakefield’s four years after the death of the 1st earl by his son Hon Thomas Fitzmaurice, death the business was neglected of Shelburne in 1761 – a long interval a pupil of the moral philosopher and for a year and Lady Shelburne was that was not hinted at by Young. influential economist Adam Smith less well served by his replacement The letter dated 29 December 1764 (1723-90), and drew the particular in managing the enterprise. Letters from Edward Wakefield, London to attention of the writer and agricultural which I have discovered in the Public Thomas Christy is transcribed below economist Arthur Young (1741-1820) Record Office for Northern Ireland [unconventional spellings are retained who visited Ballymote in 1776. in Belfast (PRONI) are a particularly and marked [sic] – capitalization and I have since become aware of important addition to our knowledge shorthands are likewise retained]: additional information on two since they are contemporary I have agreed with Lady Shelburne different aspects of the story: the documents written by participants for 1,000 acres of land for four lives period between the death of the John in the action, rather than second- or & 31 years on one side of a Street in Fitzmaurice and his son Thomas’s third-hand accounts given in later Ballymote, with 8 or 10 good Houses arrival in Ballymote and, secondly on sources. Even Young’s account was with 4 Loombs [sic] in each House Thomas himself and his involvement written more than a decade after which I have for Ever, besides there with Ballymote. events described and does not always are 3 or 4 more Houses one of ’em tally with the documentary evidence I am inform’d is a good large house A tale of two Wakefields! set out below. that will hold 10 or 15 loombs [sic] In my earlier article I noted that when Included are letters written by all these with more I propose building Young visited Ballymote in 1776 he Edward Wakefield, and the earliest I am to put Weavers into. In the first Place I want a sober careful man to have the Direction of 8 or 10 Diaper Weavers who shall have an eight Quarter Loom for himself and employ the rest in ¾ and 6/4. I think an honest sober Man with 8 or 10 boys will get a comfortable good living. Next I want another sober Man that understands manufacturing 7/8 cloth 9 & 10 Hundreds to have the direction in that Article. I shall also make coarse ¾ Cloth to sell both Brown and White which Boys from 14 years upwards can make. There is a Bleach House & Green upon the Estate, I must have a Thatched cottages in Mill Street photographed by Maisie McGovern sober careful foreman for a Bleacher before demolition in 1979/80 for construction of new house by Tom Currid that can Lap Cloth well. All these shall for the Coleman family. have a good House to Live in and every

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proper encouragement provided they of the earliest meetings in the country final stage of the linen manufacturing are sober & Industrious. The Town at Moyallon, from where Thomas process before it was taken to the is pleasantly situated & everything Christy had written. Linen Hall for sale. The linen was very cheap 12 miles from Sligoe [sic]. I have since discovered that hung to dry in a large airy room with I shall be obliged to thee to consult the Greers were among the most windows and was then measured and Tho.s Greer & give me thy answer. important linen drapers in Ulster. [2] folded into lengths. I would have the Weavers go there A further internet search confirmed as soon as possible & the Bleacher the Wakefields as one of the leading We learn more from the extract before the 1st of March there are now Quaker families in London during below from a further letter written by about 20 Looms employ’d who will this period. Reverting to the contents Wakefield from London to Thomas begin for me about ye 1st of February. of Thomas Christy’s letter, it is Greer of Dungannon on 16th February Thy Sincere Friend very doubtful if the Thomas Sinton 1765: Edward Wakefield. mentioned in the correspondence I have rec’d several letters from (a copy) established himself in Ballymote Neddy expressing thy great kindness The document is a contemporary as there was no meeting closer than and tender advice to him. …. He copy enclosed with a letter from the Grange; this was probably the informed me thou has heard of my Thomas Christy at Moyallon, County Thomas Sinton (1732-1812) who concern in Ballymote. I have no doubt Armagh to ‘Cousin Tho.’ [Thomas married Margaret Christy (1737- but I have a very good Bargain of Greer] dated 1/11 1765 [11 January]. 1810) of Moyallon. [3] the Land, but that should not have [1] Returning to Edward Wakefield’s had any great weight with me , if I At this point I will divert for a letter we find that it tells us a great did not promise myself much from ye moment from discussing Edward deal; but it also poses many questions. manufactory…….I propose building Wakefield’s letter to considering While Wakefield had already agreed fifty [houses], each house to contain Thomas Christy’s letter to Thomas terms of his lease he makes it clear four loombs [sic]. [4] Greer as it is also of interest to us that he had not yet visited Ballymote. However, Wakefield did not have in several respects. Christy explores Nevertheless, from the success of long to realize his plans; a letter suggestions of suitable people who his business ventures it would be dated 5th December 1765 from Mr might be employed in the Ballymote reasonable to assume he would only R Redmond of Wakefield, Willet & enterprise. The name of Thos. have acted on information from a Pratt in London to Thomas Greer [Thomas] Sinton is mentioned but it trusted source. We are presented with notes that “Mr Wakefield died this is noted that he would only go ‘if it an image of a street in Ballymote with 8 morning.” The will of one Edward be nigh a meeting’. There is also a or 10 “good houses” – but which street Wakefield, Mercer of Lad Lane in the reference to another connection, one was it? And what were ‘good’ houses city of London, was probated on 19th William Mills Akinson. A further letter ? I am not entirely convinced that the December 1765. [5] This confirms of 1767 refers to the Grange meeting. modest thatched cottages that used to Wakefield’s profession. A ‘Mercer’ I knew that the Grange in County line Mill Street [now Grattan Street] was a term used since medieval times Tyrone is one of the oldest Quaker would qualify. We are told of a further for traders, firstly in fine fabrics, but Meeting houses in Ireland and this three or four houses (On the other later as general traders in fabrics. The together with the reference to “nigh side of the same street? Or on another Mercers’ Company remains today [near] a meeting” seemed to add up. street?). One house was large enough the first in order of precedence of The history of the Grange set out on its to contain ten or fifteen loombs [sic]; the great and wealthy guilds of the website www.grangefriendsmeeting. this must have been remarkably large city of London. They have long since sharepoint.com notes that a Thomas indeed. We are told that there was a ceased to be trade bodies but are now Greer was one of the people with bleach house and a bleach green. He heavily populated with wealthy city whom Lord Charlemont agreed a proposes building ‘good houses’ for gents who dine in the great guildhalls lease of a site for a meeting house in crucial men to attract them to settle of the city and dispense charity. 1751. A bit more web surfing on the in Ballymote. We are told of his need Interestingly in the plantations of theme of Quakers in Ireland brought for a bleacher, for diaper weavers King James 1st in 1609 the company me to the Quakers’ official site www. and plans for ‘lapping cloth’.(1) was granted 21,000 acres west of the quakers-in-ireland.ie where I learned ‘Diaper’ as in ‘diaper weaver’ refers Bann (www.mercers.co.uk). As well that a member of the Akinson family to a repeat woven pattern in linen or as his wife Isabella, the beneficiaries had been responsible for founding one other fabrics. ‘Lapping’ is part of the of his considerable fortune included

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Fitzmaurice’s elder brother the 1st marquess (1737-1805), who continues to live on the Petty estate at Bowood in the west of England. As a result of this connection I was contacted by Nigel Aston of the School of History at the University of Leicester who was researching the 1st marquess and particularly the relationship between Thomas Fitzmaurice and his elder brother. Mr Aston shared with me the results of his research in a draft text which has since been published as a chapter of a book he jointly edited on the 1st marquess. [9] From Mr Aston’s research, and additional information I have gathered from other sources, we come to a greater understanding of Thomas Fitzmaurice and his Perspective View of a Lapping Room (Irish Linen Engraving Series), Stipple involvement with Ballymote. More Etching by William Hincks, 1791, British Museum (No 1877,0113.380) information will undoubtedly emerge in time due to increased availability of his sons Joseph, Edward, Thomas bequests from Thomas Christy of the research material. and John and daughters Catherine very significant sums of ‘upwards of’ According to Aston, Thomas was his and Elizabeth, wife of one Samuel £5,000 to John and £6,000 to Edward mother’s favourite son and was more Robinson. His son Edward must be Wakefield. [8] amenable to his father’s direction the ‘Neddy’ referred to his letter to than his elder brother. Thomas was Thomas Greer. Hon Thomas Fitzmaurice (1742-93) heir to several Fitzmaurice properties It also clears up a bit of a mystery As I had detailed in my earlier article, in Ireland, including some that came as there is a further letter of 15 it appears that Thomas Fitzmaurice to his father through connection September 1770 in the PRONI signed (1742-93) first became involved with the 1st earl of Kerry and some by Edward Wakefield at Moyallon with Ballymote probably before from his mother who was also a and written again to Thomas Greer 1774 when he was in his very early Fitzmaurice, daughter of the 1st earl and with mention of the Ballymote thirties. Before Young’s visit in 1776 of Kerry’s brother Colonel the Hon business. [6] R Redmond’s 1765 he had already heard that the finest William Fitzmaurice of Gallane, Co letter at the time of Wakefield senior’s bleach mill in the country had been Kerry. [10] This included property death had said that “the business will constructed by Thomas in 1774. The in Tipperary and Kerry and indeed I be carried on much as it was before.” Wealth of Nations, arguably the most have noted elsewhere that some of his Thus Edward Wakefield Jnr probably influential ever text on economics, was descendants lived in Tipperary well continued the firm’s involvement published by Thomas’s mentor Adam into the nineteenth century. His elder with Ballymote for some years and Smith in the same year as Young’s brother apparently resented the extent would account for the developments visit; in his text Smith specifically of Thomas’s inheritance. Thomas credited to the Wakefield that could discussed the linen industry as an was at Eton from 1755 to 1758 and hardly have been realized in the short ideal model where employment and went from there to the University of year of his father’s association with wealth could be generated at many Glasgow from which he graduated in the enterprise. This makes sense of levels, from the growing of flax, 1759 (the period living at the house Young’s assertion of a long period through its manufacture into linen to of Adam Smith). His father had taken of Wakefield involvement. The firm its marketing. up the suggestion of Sir Gilbert Elliot of Wakefield, Pratt & Miers was still During the course of my earlier (1722-77), MP, scholar and friend trading with Thomas Greer in 1776. research I had been in contact with of the Scottish political philosopher [7] A letter to Thomas Greer from his the current marquess of Lansdowne, David Hume, of sending Thomas to brother John on 11 May 1780 notes direct descendant of Thomas study Adam Smith. Elliot in a letter to

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Lady Mary O’Brien, later 3rd countess of Orkney (1790) Thomas Fitzmaurice, looking wistful. Portrait by descent from her mother, painted by Sir Joshua completed in 1774 by Sir Joshua Reynolds (Bowood). Reynolds, 1772, Philadelphia Museum of Art. Daughter Both were members of famous conversational of the 5th earl of Inchiquin (from 1801, 1st marquess of gatherings presided over by Dr Samuel Johnson and Thomond), she married Thomas Fitzmaurice on 21st known as ‘Dr Johnson’s Club’. December 1777. Her father’s second wife was Mary Palmer, niece and heir of Reynolds. She is depicted in classical dress and with an equally fashionable melancholy air. Smith described Thomas as: the distinguished professor of law England. He made only two speeches … a very good Scholar, very lively, Sir William Blackstone (1723-80) in the London parliament of 1761-8, and tolerably ungovernable, but noted his remarkable intelligence one supporting the activities of his probably will not give you much and an affable character which was brother in the cabinet. He was called trouble, as you will have total charge to make him an ideal candidate for to the bar in 1768. Having failed to and direction without any controul membership of Dr Samuel Johnson’s be elected as MP for Oxford, in a [sic]. famous London conversation club. He strategy designed to gain two family He took classes in philosophy, was awarded an honorary doctorate in seats, he again sat as MP for Calne in modern and ancient languages, 1773. 1768-1774 though he was an irregular mathematics and moral philosophy Due to his father’s death in 1761, attender at parliament. However, as and stayed in residence during and his brother’s consequent move he sometimes took an independent vacations to further his studies. Smith to the English House of Lords as 2nd line in voting, he could not be entirely was impressed by his application to earl of Shelburne, Thomas replaced relied on by his brother to support his his studies: him as MP for Calne on his brother’s political ambitions. There is not a poor boy in the Bowood estate in 1762. He was also Despite these differences he was college who is supported by charity MP for Kerry in the Dublin Parliament returned for a seat on another of and studies for bread that is more 1763-8. [11] His father had been MP his brother’s estates at Wycombe punctual in his attendance upon every for Kerry also from 1743 until he in 1774 but from then on was more part of College discipline. inherited the Petty family fortune engaged in his personal affairs than In 1761 he went on to Oxford where in 1751 and moved his attentions to politics. This would fit in with the

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beginning of his involvement with much interested in national politics. and was depressed. Financially things developing a serious business venture It is interesting to note how he was should have been looking up as in Ballymote. Thomas was still a expected to support the family’s his wife’s mother had died and she bachelor in 1774 and apparently was English political activities founded on became countess of Orkney in 1791 spending much time in London. He the basis of the Petty family fortune and succeeded to her father’s estate had leased a substantial manorial inherited by his father and brother. at Clivedon near London. But their property, Knighton Gorges in the While he retained the name of marriage had failed and they were parish of Newchurch on the Isle of Fitzmaurice, they had changed theirs living separately. In April of 1793 Wight, but I am not clear what role to Petty – a frequent requirement made his nephew found him ‘dejected’ this played in his life. of those inheriting estates where the and Thomas told him that ‘he rather In the same year that Young visited male line had died out. Nevertheless, wished for death’. He died on October Ballymote, Thomas was expanding Thomas chose to take a close personal 28 in the same year. His will proved his other interests by taking a lease interest in Ballymote which ensured on 26 March 1794 mentioned his of Lwenny Hall Denbighshire which its success and indeed he had assured properties in Ireland in Sligo and he was to develop into part of a linen Young of his intention of continuing Tipperary but does not provide business which he had instigated and expanding the commitment he more interesting information about in Ballymote. [12] Aston notes that had already made. Ballymote. However in my earlier Thomas set himself up as a linen His mother died on 9 December article I quoted some documentary merchant and established a bleaching 1980 leaving a fortune which helped evidence that he did highly value factory at Lwenny for fabrics from the ease his finances but caused a family the enterprise he had established in family estates in Ireland [Ballymote]. rift as his brother (unsuccessfully) the town. In an age when travel and The following year he married Lady challenged the will. Briefly he became communications were difficult, and Mary O’Brien (1755 -1831), daughter involved in local politics in Wales and when one considers his hands-on and heiress of the 5th earl of Inchiquin, in July 1782 became High Sherriff for approach to developing his extensive and wrote with delight to his mother Flintshire, the same year in which his business interests in Ireland, England of how agreeable and lovely his wife brother became Prime Minister. and Wales, it is easy to imagine that was and how happy she made him. From 1784 Thomas concentrated he overstretched himself physically as His only child, a son John, was born on his business interests – including well as financially. in 1778. improvements to his Lwenny Aston suggests that he helped to Aston suggests that Thomas quickly estate and bleach works, business lessen the prejudice whereby the overstretched himself financially with in Liverpool with warehouses in gentry frowned on getting involved maintaining a house in London’s Chester, and occasional business trips in business – Edmund had fashionable Pall Mall – it must have to France. In a letter to his brother of referred to him as ‘the Honorable been a very significant mansion as it 20 November 1788 Thomas showed linen merchant’. [14] At the same was later sold to the Prince of Wales himself very optimistic about the time he was philanthropic in the for £7,000 in 1787 (The Times 30 future of his business interests which way he ran his Ballymote and Welsh November 1787), as well as taking on he saw as coming to fruition: business by not squeezing the last Lwenny Hall in Wales. Relations with I think I can now venture to assure out of his workers or tenants for a his father-in-law, the Earl of Inchiquin, you, that, my linen schemes are profit. An obituary in 1793 noted ‘… soured over the issue of accessing within a mere trifle of being perfectly his love for the poor, for his country, his wife’s inheritance. Aston notes accomplished & put upon a solid for real improvements of every kind, that arrears of rental from the Irish footing, for myself, and others after me his benevolence in general, and his estates of Thomas and his mother …..Considering all the circumstances, uncommon skills in the management amounted to £27,000 but that, due to the undertaking will, one day or other, of the great concerns wherein he was the linen business there, his mother’s be certainly consider’d as singularly engaged, were such as met not often Sligo estate yielded its full rental wonderfull [13] in one person. . .’ [15] [Ballymote]. From 1779 he stopped However, in the winter of 1792/3, attending the House of Commons at a mere four years after his optimistic Some additional information and Westminster and the following year letter to his brother, at the age of 50, corrections to earlier article did not run for parliament admitting Thomas sadly suffered a stroke. Aston I would like to note an apparent his ‘great distress for money’ but suggests that leading up to this he had anomaly in my earlier article, pointed also showing that he was not really taken to drink, suffered from dropsy out by Martin Timoney, in that I

28 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 suggested that Ballinascarrow lake (National Library of Ireland or in the somewhere) had been created by a dam on the river PRONI, Belfast). [7] PRONI D1044/461- Letter of 27 built as part of the enterprise. Martin For further details on the Reynolds February 1776 to Thomas Greer pointed out that when the lake dried portraits of Thomas Fitzmaurice and [8] PRONI D1044/608 out in a drought ‘crannogs’ or lake his wife lady Mary O’Brien, see David [9] Nigel Aston, ‘Lord Shelburne and dwellings were revealed, meaning Mannings, Sir Joshua Reynolds, A his Brother’ p29-50, An Enlightenment that the lake is of much earlier origin. Complete Catalogue of his Paintings, Statesman in Whig Britain, ed Nigel Des Black has since resolved the two vols, Yale University Press, New Aston and Clarissa Campbell Orr, question by pointing out to me that Haven and London, 2000. Woodbridge, Suffolk, England, 2011 the dam did not create a new lake but Footnotes [10] Thomas’s first cousin, the would have resulted in significantly [1] PRONI D1044/52. This letter daughter of his mother’s sister raising the level of an existing one. is wrongly noted by the PRONI as Elizabeth, was the Lady Caldwell with I must concede that there is November (1st of November, rather whom his paternal aunt Lady Arabella no evidence to support Lewis’s than 11th of January) 1765 – but that Denny engaged in correspondence assertion that Lady Arabella Denny would make no sense in the sequence as referred to in my earlier article. I had constructed an obelisk and that of correspondence or events noted recently that Lady Arabella’s the only comparable monument [2] Mention is made of Thomas house, now known as Lios an Uisce, ‘on a hill near the town’ was that in Greer (1724-1803) in ‘The Greer and at Blackrock, appeared Carrownanty on which Jim Kielty Greeves Family’ in Kathleen Rankin, for sale in , Residential tells me a flag was suspended on rent The Linen Houses of the Bann valley: Property Supplement 2 May 2013 days. The Story of their Families [11] E M Johnson Liik, MPs in Eileen Tighe has drawn to my [3] www.sinton-family-tree.com Dublin: Companion to History of the attention to a short but no less [4] PRONI D1044/62: Edward Irish Parliament 1692-1800, p88 interesting article by the late Clare Wakefield, London to Thomas Greer, [12] The spelling of Lwenny I use Walsh published in The Corran Dungannon 16 February 1765 here and throughout is as in Thomas’s Herald which is very informative on [5] PROB 11/914/450 will the production process, local aspects [6] Curiously some years ago my [13] Bowood Papers, S 6 Family and uses of the products. mother was listening to the Australian correspondence, f 74 – quoted by On the subject of the linen industry writer Germaine Greer talking on Aston elsewhere in there was the radio about her search for her [14] Edmund and Jane Burke to discussion at the 2013 Sligo Field Irish roots and my mother wrote to William Burke, 13 September 1792, Club Conference on the subject of a her with information on Greers in Burke Correspondence VII, p191 linen mill on the river in Collooney County Sligo. She received a postcard [15] The Gentleman’s Magazine 63 about which there is information in from the writer thanking her for (1793), 1053, 1147 the O’Hara of Annaghmore papers the information (I am sure I have it

Ballymote (Emlaghfad and Kilmorgan) flax growers in 1796 The ‘Spinning Wheel’ list or the Flax Growers Bounty, published by the The Irish Linen Board in 1796, included nearly 60,000 individuals. Spinning wheels were awarded based on the number of acres planted. People who planted one acre were awarded four spinning wheels and those growing five acres were awarded a loom. A full list for the country is available on web site: http://www.failteromhat.com/flax1796.php. Emlaghfad: Brennan, Laughlin; Roger; M’Gin, James; Preston, Denis; Hugh; Golrick, James; Golrick, John; Bridgeham, James; Carrol, Daniel; Preston, Francis; Preston, Michael; Healy, Roger; Higgins, Francis; Irwin, Conlan, Bartholomew; Conlan, Rogers, Daniel; Shaw, John; Supple, John; Kilfoyle, James; Lang, Michael; Thady; Conlen, Thady; Davey, Peter; Morris Lindsay, John; Manion, John; Milmo, Derrig, Daniel; Doyle, Michael; Bryan; Morrison, Thomas; Mulleeny, Dunleavy, Michael; Fahy, Patrick; Kilmorgan: Barber, James; Bereen, Widow; Orr, Robert; Porter, Richard; Finan, Laurence; Flyn, Bryan; Flyn, Laurence; Bereen, Thady; Carter, Quin, Christopher; Quin, John; Michael; Garret, Rev William; Healy, Widow; Casey, Michael; Clifford, Quinin, Patrick; Quinin, Philip; William; Keiver, Thomas; Kerin, James; Denneady, James; Dowd, Reynolds, Owen; , Owen; John; Kerrene, Andrew; Kilbride, James; Dowd, Matthew; Dowd, Scanlon, Patrick; Tige, Patrick; Tige, Charles; Kilbride, Patrick; Kilhawly, Stephen; Duke, John; Duke, Rev Terrence; Trumble, Harloe Patrick; M’Getrick, John; M’Getrick, William; Flyn, Michael; Golrick,

29 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 History and Tranquillity at Tobernalt Bernie Gilbride much chatting and laughter which shortened the journey. The road would be crowded with whole families on foot like ourselves. Some older people recited the Rosary. Those who had boats came by river and lake, much to our envy, while many came by pony and trap, well wrapped up with colourful rugs over their knees, especially older folk. Sometimes the morning was shrouded in early morning mist, a sign of a good day to come, but to us small folk rather frightening as people loomed up suddenly in front of us. Leaving the town the road winds uphill. On reaching the top of the hill the mist would usually have begun to lift and the surrounding mountaintops appeared bathed in the golden light of the early morning sun. Tobernalt 2010 Gradually Lough Gill spread out Most Saturday evenings my friend far back as l can remember. We before us with its islands and Teresa and I go to the 7.30pm Vigil had no car; very few people did wooded shores. In those long-ago Mass. We find it convenient and in the 1930s. Living in town, we days, I little knew l was following enjoy a quiet Sunday morning with had no pony or trap either. So from an ancient pre-Christian pagan the papers. when we were able to walk we got tradition in celebration of the old Tomorrow being Garland Sunday up at the crack of dawn – exciting god ‘Lugh’ who gave the Irish l suggested we wait and go to the in itself for us – and fasting we name ‘Lughnasa’ to the month of open-air mass at Tobernalt instead. walked the three miles with our August. St Patrick in his wisdom ‘Tobernalt!’ she exclaims, telling father for first mass at 6am. decided to use the same place as a me she had never been to this It was always a very happy Christian place of worship. traditional mass though she had journey. Meeting friends and Tradition tells us that St Patrick lived in Sligo for many years, and neighbours at the corner of our visited Tobernalt on his way back she would very much to attend. street, we proceeded via Cleveragh from pilgrimage to Lough Derg, We agree to go to noon mass the Road, where we passed the last and as one approaches the copse following day. of the town houses. From then of trees at the entrance there is a The fact that it will be her first on it was a country road with large rock where he left the imprint time sets me thinking back to my rough stones and grass verges. To of his hand. To this day one can own past, and l realise l cannot us small children it was a great stretch one’s fingers and thumb to actually remember the very first adventure. We stayed close to my fit the indentations on its smooth occasion I was there. Mass at father, walking with our friends worn surface. On looking towards Tobernalt on Garland Sunday has directly ahead of him. Everyone the altar one is taken by its rugged been the custom in our family as knew everybody else so there was beauty. History tells us that the

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Sisters of Mercy had this particular it is with a lovely feeling of the the hardship pilgrims must have altar built, in thanksgiving for the tranquillity and peace we head suffered during the ‘Penal Days’, saving of the inhabitants of Sligo – for the car and home. Afterwards from 1691 after the defeat of King and of their own community – from Teresa is loud in her praise and was James at the Battle of the Boyne a virulent fever, long before my delighted at having been present. to Catholic Emancipation in 1829, time. Perhaps it replaced an older She loved the gentle murmur of enacted under the persuasion and altar, as we are assured Tobernalt the stream in the background and guidance of Daniel O’Connell. All had been used for sacrificial rites the sun-dappled shade of the trees. during those years the celebration and celebrations in pre-Christian Later she confided she was amazed of mass was prohibited, and every times. at the effect the whole place and priest had a price on his head. Tobernalt is situated at the base ceremony had on her. I tell her Tobernalt was an ideal place of a rocky cliff, with a well at its of long ago when l was young, for flouting that law, and with feet that feeds a gurgling stream before radio or television. Then the lookouts at the top of the hills and as it makes its way over rocks singing would echo all along the along the lakeshores priests were with miniature waterfalls to the shores of the lake, especially if the relatively safe. So it was there the nearby lake, Lough Gill. The well hymns were being sung by people people came from miles around to is surrounded by a sturdy stone on the boats on their way to mass hear Mass, go to confession, have wall, approximately three feet or on their way home, water being children christened and even get high, with an entrance down three a great carrier of sound. Often the married, all in great secrecy and or four cut stone steps, much worn groups on the roads would join in in fear and dread that the military by many feet down the centuries. Then the green adjoining might chance upon them when the In this wall is a niche, specially Tobernalt was covered with priest would surely be arrested and incorporated to hold a ‘porringer’ all sorts of stalls, some selling possibly hung. So it was that down (tin mug) with which to drink religious objects – missals, the years it continued to be a place the water. The water is icy cold colourful First Communion prayer of pilgrimage and celebration. and refreshing, coming as it does books, Rosary beads, scapulars, from the solid rock. It is known holy pictures. Others stalls catered Thinking about those terrible to Sligo people as the ‘Holy Well’ for hungry people with, tea, bread, times, we realise how lucky we are and is reported to have medicinal scones, cake and everything in that to be living today in such freedom qualities. Generations have drunk line, much availed of by people and travelling in such comfort. its water, hoping to be cured of coming long distances and fasting Garland Sunday is indeed a many ailments. It is especially from midnight. Others sold fruit special day for Sligo people, and recommended for eye ailments of and sweets and so on. It was a Tobernalt itself with its Holy Well all sorts. Some people leave bits of lively spot with children running, is a special place. Having retained clothing and even walking sticks shouting and playing, and friends its aura of mystique and sacredness hanging on the trees as proof of greeting each other, not having met since time immemorial, it has their belief and devotion. perhaps from the year before. My become a restful corner in our Garland Sunday – the last Sunday father did not believe in having hectic world. It is a place to stand in July – is the main celebration at breakfast there or even breaking still, to listen to birdsong and to Tobernalt and it is then that people his fast, so we set out for home the gentle gurgle of the stream on gather from miles around to hear where we enjoyed a big fry with all its way to the lake. It is to realise mass in the open air. It is there the trimmings, being very hungry that thousands of men and women Teresa and l make our way, not for by then. This too was part of the – now long gone and forgotten – early morning mass but for the last magic of Garland Sunday for us. have done this before us. We too mass of the celebration at noon. We The festivities at Tobernalt went will go, and like them be forgotten, go by car and on the way l fill her on all day and into the evening, while Tobernalt with its ageless in on what l know of the history of culminating with a ceile in the ball beauty, tranquillity and peace, will the place. alley nearby that night. Perhaps a offer these qualities to anyone who The singing and readings of the throwback to our pagan past. seeks them, in this shady, restful mass are really impressive and As we drive home, our talk is of place, by the shores of Lough Gill.

31 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 Classiebawn and the Assassination of Lord Mountbatten at Mullaghmore, County Sligo: A Retrospective

Joe McGowan

Like ants we were, or worker bees, and just as susceptible to the whims of wind and weather as we shook out the hay on warm summer days, or feverishly made ‘lappings’ if rain was on the way. Most of the time it was. Above us, Classiebawn, that great impressive hulk of Mountcharles sandstone built in the 1860s by twice Prime Minister of England, Lord Palmerston, looked impassively down. Vying for attention with those imposing natural landmarks, Benbulben and Maeve’s , it failed – but only just. Classiebawn Too busy with concerns of crops, as usual. Men who skirmished with the community at Mullaghmore were cattle and survival in the hungry gamekeepers and stole the landlord’s their friends and neighbours. ‘50s, we knew nothing of the castle’s rabbits the night before now had no During the Civil War, soldiers of the history, and cared less. choice but to go to the Brackens for new Freestate were stationed there. permission to cut a load of firewood Many years later, the war a fading Village Life in the Classiebawn woods. A cartload memory, Jules Bracken often stopped Classiebawn’s owners Lord of timber cost five shillings. It was all at our house. Leaning across the Palmerston and later Ashley, were very civilized, a game almost, and no stone ditch my father and he talked absentee. The Bracken family were one thought it odd. It was as if nothing for hours. About the concerns of gamekeeper/managers on the estate at all had happened the night before. small farmers I suppose: cattle prices, in Ashley’s time – bachelor Watty, The Brackens kept a dairy too. When weather, will the turf be saved at all Jules and his wife, and their daughter, our cows ran dry we bought milk, and this year? Don’t mention the poachers Yvonne. Wearing tweed plus fours, sometimes delicious salty home-made — or the war! jackets and hats, their manner of dress butter, from those people who were alone pointed them out as different so different from us, but in a sort of Origins of ownership to everyone else in the area. Their detached way, were yet a part of our Following the dispossession of relationship with the villagers in community. the O’Connor clan in the late 17th Mullaghmore was a Jekyll and Hyde Republicans were billeted in century, about 10,000 acres of Sligo one. On pitch-black winter nights they Classiebawn during the War of land was granted to Edwina [Ashley] patrolled the Classiebawn estates with Independence. Hostages were once Mountbatten’s forbear, Sir John shotguns and flashlights, protecting taken and held there to secure the Temple, during the Cromwellian Lord Ashley’s rabbit warrens. The release of condemned IRA prisoners, confiscations of the 17th century. local poachers with carbide lamps Johnson, O’Shea and MacBride. The His father, also Sir John, was Master and hounds played cat and mouse castle was mined with dynamite: of the Rolls in Ireland, and a man of with them. Sometimes the poachers any attempt at rescue and it would letters too. Following the rebellion won and carried off a haul of rabbits; be blown sky high! If the Brackens of 1641 he wrote a book called sometimes the Brackens succeeded noticed anything unusual in their History of the General Rebellion of and the miscreants were forced to patrols, and they must have, they said Ireland. Considered by some a gross plead their case before a hard-faced nothing. ‘Less said is easiest mended’ exaggeration of the events of the district justice in Grange District was an old country saying. Although Rising of 1641 it was thenceforth Court. they were in the pay of Classiebawn, considered as a true historical record When morning came it was business the people who lived in the small by loyalists — and justification by

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Cromwell for his excesses in his Irish campaigns. According to publisher DeBurca it was “An outstanding success as a piece of propaganda, it had the greatest impact of any book on Irish history. Because of its blatant sectarian nature and having as its objective the incitement of hatred in England against the Irish, it had the unique distinction of being condemned by the Irish Parliament and publicly destroyed by the common hangman in Dublin.” Under William of Orange, Temple was made Attorney General and Classiebawn gatehouse showing mountbatten crest Speaker of the Irish House of and the subsequent events leading to the great grandson of Queen Victoria, Commons. Irish independence in 1922, of nor did we care. The property eventually came into those people of privilege and power Remembering Lord Palmerston’s the possession of Edwina Ashley who waned. No more did they come to excesses in famine times, or perhaps had inherited these estates from her Mullaghmore. At the changeover and Queen Victoria’s apathy during the forbears, and who in 1922 married departure of the ascendancy families Black Hunger, others were not so Lord Louis Mountbatten. some locals were rewarded for their ready to give dispensation to their service, acquiring local businesses heirs. But for the vigilance of a local Mountbatten’s Visits and buildings once owned by the fisherman Mountbatten’s boat, the But that was long ago and Sir John inheritors of Classiebawn. Shadow V, would have been sunk never set foot in Mullaghmore. It At Classiebawn Castle itself many years before the assassination. was to Mullaghmore the ascendancy however, now the property of Lord Someone had drilled holes in her classes came in their droves on Mount Temple (an Ashley and father bottom when she was grounded at summer holidays to Henry John of Mountbatten’s wife), nothing low water expecting the filling tide to Temple’s (Lord Palmerston) Lodges, changed. Lord Ashley’s visits to finish her off. This should have served purpose-built for them beside the Mullaghmore were sporadic. Later on as a warning, but it was dismissed as harbour. Arriving with great pomp when Lord Louis and Lady Edwina an insignificant act of vandalism. and ceremony all the landed gentry of Mountbatten came into possession Sligo and surrounding counties came they commenced annual visits. The threat assessed there: the Le Stranges, the Maudes, Well used to visiting tourists, their Given the scale of the conflict a few the O’Hara’s, Wynnes, Gores, occasional sojourns created no great miles down the road in Northern Richardsons, Percevals, Hosies stir in the village. Very few knew Ireland, it was almost inevitable that and Cookes. Guarding them was much about their comings and goings this grandson of Queen Victoria, uncle an RIC presence in and a except for a few locals who provided to Prince Philip, retired Admiral of the Coastguard Station near Mullaghmore kitchen and dining room staff. For Fleet, one time Commander of Allied village. O’Rourke, in his history of most of us the only indication that they Forces in Southeast Asia, last Viceroy Sligo, written in 1898, criticised were in residence was the house flag of India, First Sea Lord and Earl of Palmerston for having developed flying from the roof. Or we might see Burma would be a prime target for Mullaghmore as a ‘watering hole of the ill-fated boat, Shadow V, leaving some kind of political demonstration. too exclusive a kind’ which catered the harbour, or returning. Sometimes In 1960, Mountbatten’s estate only to the rich ‘who have already too the old man himself could be seen manager, Patrick O’Grady, raised many of the good things of Ireland.’ pottering about with a shrimp net in questions with the Gardai about the While these wealthy landowners the harbour. For the most part they Earl’s safety. “While everything points were in residence local people found minded their business and we minded to the fact that no attack of any kind some small employment as cooks, ours. We had nothing in common with on the Earl, by subversive elements housemaids, jarveys, waiters and them, nor they with us. Most had no was at any time contemplated,” the waitresses. idea of his close relationship to the reply went, “it would in my opinion Following the of 1916 British Royal Family, or that he was be asking too much to say in effect

33 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 that we can guarantee his safety while hay in the field up above. It might be Those in the vicinity looked towards in this country.” Mountbatten himself saved after all if this weather would the sound in time to see the splintered scorned a major security presence. only hold for a day or two. Watching remains of Shadow V fall back into Who were the subversive elements while he worked on the heights the sea in a tumultuous fury of froth in the report? He was not favoured overlooking the bay he noticed the and water. Paul Maxwell’s father, by such bodies as ‘The League of green boat move smoothly towards John, hearing what he recognised as Empire Loyalists’; they felt his views the lobster pot markers outside of an explosion went immediately to the on partition were too liberal and he Oilean Ruadh. Green was Edwina’s pier. Boats rushed from the harbour was, ‘very friendly disposed towards favourite colour. to the site of the explosion to see how the Catholic clergy, particularly the they could help. Jesuits.’ The Jesuit angle may have The explosion heard around the Four died on that day: Mountbatten, arisen because the castle was rented to world his grandson Nicholas, Lady Jesuits, or anyone else with hard cash, Suddenly there was a massive bang. Brabourne and Paul Maxwell. Lady in the 1950s. Among the black-clad A column of water, fragments of boat Patricia, her husband and Timothy throng who spent time there was the and shattered bodies blasted into the were badly injured, but survived. famous photographer, Fr Browne. air. People looked up in surprise as Fortunately, the day was good and Life went on normally in the small windows shook and rattled when boats in the vicinity sped immediately seaside village of Mullaghmore in the shock waves hit miles away to the rescue. If the incident had that fateful August of 1979. Tourists in Cliffoney and Bunduff. They happened at any time in the bad came and went. It rained almost every wondered what could have made weather of the preceding days there day and summer drew to a soggy such a great noise. Like many others would have been no other boats at sea, close. Paul Maxwell and I crewed on I thought the sound came from Finner no survivors. Freddy Conaghan’s fishing boat the Army Camp across the bay. We often Fragmented, shattered wood, pieces Kilkilogue, drift netting for salmon. heard shooting and explosions from no bigger than matchsticks and barely We spent long nights shooting and that direction. recognisable as part of a boat, were hauling nets, chatting as we worked. Martin Dowdican was frozen on picked up by fishermen for days He was a pleasant young man who the spot. It was too much to take in. after the explosion. Gardai collected loved the sea, and Mullaghmore. them and pieced them together in an effort to discover exactly what had Darker forces happened: where exactly in the boat While village life continued as was the bomb hidden, how was it normal, all was not as it seemed. detonated, what kind of explosives. For some passions simmered and the On lobster fishing trips I found many English visitor’s movements were such pieces and handed them over. surely monitored by watchful, secret Tides had carried them all over the eyes. Meetings were held and plans bay. A helicopter hovered over the site hatched; death weaved a deadly snare for weeks. Day after day divers went while the village slept. down to scour the seabed for clues. The fateful Monday morning of 27 On the same day as the explosion August 1979 came in bright and clear. at Mullaghmore the British army Hope springs forever, and it looked suffered the biggest number of like there might at last be some good casualties in a single incident in the weather ahead. Mountbatten and North of Ireland. Eighteen British his family were among the many soldiers were killed in an explosion holidaymakers who took advantage of in Warrenpoint, Co Down. The the good day. They prepared the boat, IRA claimed responsibility for both left Mullaghmore harbour, and eagerly incidents. put to sea. Everyone on board was in a If the ‘shot heard around the world’ good humour as Paul Maxwell steered was fired at Concord, USA in 1775, the Shadow V around Mullaghmore then the explosion heard around the Head to the fishing ground. ShadowV leaving Mullaghmore world was triggered at Mullaghmore in Local man Martin Dowdican, taking Harbour (Mountbatten 4th from 1979. Reporters from the international advantage of the sunshine, worked his left) print and TV media poured into the

34 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014

Oilean Roudh: looking out across Donegal Bay near the location of the assassination village. They filled its hotels and Ladyship, after all it was the poor who Wavelets gently lapped the sandy guesthouses. On anniversaries, they got him elected last time, and there are shore at my feet. A placid sea reflected still do. Things would never be the many more poor now.’ blue skies and stretched away same here. Mullaghmore had entered endlessly to the horizon. Somehow the history books; forever linked with It seemed wrong the earth did not it seemed wrong the earth did not cry a chain of mayhem and carnage in an cry out. out, did not scream in anguish and age-old struggle. The bomb is believed to have been mourn forever in such a place. On the day of the killing, 29 August triggered by a remote control device Similarly, in Mullaghmore today 1979, Hugh Tunney, the present from the cliffs overlooking the bay. the waters ripple peacefully around owner of Classiebawn, claims that Thomas McMahon of and Oilean Ruadh. The mists of time young Knatchbull asked his mother, Francie McGirl of Leitrim were tried have closed in and left no trace of the Lady Pamela Mountbatten: ‘Why for the murder and convicted in a non- bloody event of over three decades did they do this to Grandpapa?’ Her jury court. Mc Mahon has since been ago. Perhaps somewhere in our enigmatic reply was: ‘Oh, they have released. McGirl died in a farming subconscious a dark shadow clings. their reasons son, they have their accident. Mullaghmore today is a But Sliabh League and the Donegal reasons.’ prosperous holiday village comprised shore still delight our eyes as we ‘I have a place in Eire, Classiebawn mostly of holiday homes for the gaze out over the assassination site Castle in County Sligo,’ Mountbatten wealthy. Their yachts throng the from Mullaghmore’s ‘Circular Road’. had told a gathering of the Empire harbour, built by Lord Palmerston in Classiebawn has a new owner now. Club of Canada in 1967, ‘and I and 1820, and spill out into the sea beyond. It still stands proudly atop the Fairy my family could not be treated with Holidaymakers crowd the village in Rock and yet vies for magnificence greater friendship by the Irish. My the summer months; building sites with majestic Benbulben and Maeve’s son-in-law’s grandmother was the have sold for astronomical figures. Knocknarea. Marchioness of Sligo who died not Standing once on Omaha Beach in And still it fails — but only just. long ago at the age of 98. Shortly Normandy, where the D-day landings -- before the second election for which took place, I wondered that things Joe McGowan’s latest book is A Bitter Mr De Valera stood, Lady Sligo asked could be so normal in a place where Wind. He is currently working on a her head gardener: ‘Do you think death rained from sea and sky, where book of short stories Mr De Valera will be re-elected?’ thousands died horribly; mutilated He replied: ‘Of course he will, your bodies on blood-soaked strand.

35 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 A season in the Carrowmore Meadow Lynda Hart

of warm sun starts the process and Wheaters are a summer visitor to be by mid-April the first of the meadow seen in the lower meadow, while small grasses begin to push their way towards flocks of linnets visit the area. June the sky. sees the meadow in all its glory, Herb I have identified eleven different types Robert grows upon the reconstructed of grasses growing at Carrowmore, Cairn of Listowel. Around the edges and there are still one or two which I of the meadows Eyebright, Common am not sure of. The first is the year- Centaury with its delicate pink flowers, round Meadow Grass. This is followed and the bold violet flowers of Selfheal by Lesser Catstail, Cocksfoot, Red reach for the sun. And hidden amongst Fescue, Yorkshire Fog and False Oat the grasses are the elegant pink Grass. Pyramidal Orchids. These delicate By June my favourite has appeared. flowers are very fickle. Some years you In just one small part of the lower may only find two or three, other years meadow, Quaking Grass. dozens can be found. Yellow-Rattle The first plants and flowers to show From now on in the season each themselves in early April are the bane day brings a kind of dread for me, as I Nestled within seventy acres of of the gardener. The Daisy, Sorrell, know that on one of the finer days the meadow at Carrowmore, Co Sligo, are Dandelion, Ribwort Plantain and the local farmer who has the contract for 29 Neolithic monuments that make up Buttercup. In the meadow however, the hay will come through the doors the Carrowmore Megalithic Complex. they provide the first and much-needed of the centre and inform us that he is For five and a half thousand years they palette of colour. In mid to late April going to clean-up the meadow. Within have barely changed. The landscape we have Bluebells, Primroses and wild a few hours all of the beautiful flowers however, is an ever-changing part of garlic, the leaves of which provide a and grasses lay cut upon the land. The nature. tasty addition to a guide’s lunch! Also smell is amazing. The fragrance of the For most of the 20,000 or more we have the gorse, and on a warm flowers mingling with the heady scent annual visitors to the complex the day the coconut scent from the bright of the cut grass can make you dizzy. monuments themselves are the main yellow flowers can be overpowering. The hedgerows and the margins attraction, but some people see beyond By late April/early June they are joined survive. The Dog Rose and the them and take in the landscape as a by both Red and White Clover, Herb Blackberries are in full bloom, and the whole. The surrounding mountains, Robert, Lady’s Smock, also known occasional Ragwort. So attractive to from the imposing Knocknarea with as the Cuckoo flower, Black Medick bees, bugs, flies and children and so the magical cairn of Queen Maeve which has a small yellow flower and poisonous to all! It spreads so quickly to the Bricklieve mountains with the by the prolific (at Carrowmore) Yellow that we are lucky we don’t get more. stunning Carrowkeel Complex, back Rattle, an upright spike of a plant with A few years ago when the meadow to the Ballygawley mountains and the yellow flowers from top to bottom, had been cut there was a warm damp Caillech Bhearra’s House. A passage about six inches in height. spell and we were blessed with the most tomb where the Caillech was said to Now the hedgerows are covered in a delicious field mushrooms. Another live and from where she flew across the variety of vetches and the Elderberry perk for the guide’s lunchtime. Alas it peninsula dropping stones as she went, and Hawthorn tree are in full leaf was only the one season! which fell and became the Carrowmore and flower. Many birds use both the If the weather stays fine there will monuments. meadow and the hedgerows to nest and be another cut of grass in the early The seasons and the weather change forage for food. autumn, but the main growth is grass. the colours and the flora of the area. At Pipits and skylarks fly out from under Around the peripherals of the meadow Carrowmore the season starts at Easter. your feet as you walk the paths. A pair Willowherb begins to appear along At this time the large meadows are still of buzzards nested nearby last year and with Common Knapweed. Soon the dormant – cut short in the previous could often be seen riding the thermals sloes appear and the blackberries turn autumn for a second cut of grass, they and mewing to each other. Kestrels and from red to black and another small have yet to start growing. A few days sparrowhawks can also be seen. feast awaits the nimble of finger.

36 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014

After the second cut of grass the meadow. Charms of Goldfinches flit close for the winter months. The site starts to wind down. The trees among the thistles and the now skeletal monuments, a solid reminder of a long start to turn and lose their leaves. The Willowherb. Robins, the Tits and the forgotten past, still stand proudly in the crows are ever present on the ground Blackbirds have raised their families. ever-changing landscape. searching for a tasty morsel on the cut So now it is October, the site will The Ballad of Corran Park Submitted by Neal Farry

He has been an inspiration to both young and old To rally round the banner of the emerald, white and gold.

We’ll have the champions, Louth, they are by name, To meet the stalwarts, Mayo, of noted fame. Now Louth have conquered Cavan, who hold All-Ireland’s crown But the wearers of the red and green won’t let their names go down.

Thrills we’ll have in plenty and football at its best Very Rev Canon PJ Roughneen PP VF introducing His Lordship Most ‘Twixt the boys from o’er the Shannon Rev Dr Fergus, , at the official opening of Corran Park and the champions of the west. on 1 May 1949. Also in the picture is Right Rev Mons Blaine PPVG. The Louthmen may be favourites but this you all may know Come all you loyal football fans in the The playing pitch and Earlsfield, and That their mettle will be tested by the county of Sligo, the Mercy Convent too. heroes of Mayo. In Leitrim and Roscommon and Both one and all, these scenes recall, likewise, too, Mayo. the days long, long ago With a dance we’ll finish up in the The news that I have here to tell is When McDonagh held the castle well-known Loftus Hall, glorious and grand: against the Saxon foe. And we’ll extend a hearty welcome to We’ve now a park in Ballymote, a our patrons one and all. credit to our land. The people of this grand old town are ‘Twill be a fitting closing to a most known both far and wide successful day, Now in the Gaelic sporting world we For their kindly words of welcome, So rally in your thousands upon the boldly take our place, are heard on every side. first of May. Maintaining by our efforts the Hospitality is the watchword which -- tradition of our race, guides them on their way, This ballad was composed by Michael And by our great achievements we Sure they’ll make their patrons happy Francis Regan, Secretary of Keash stand out upon our own upon the opening day. GAA Club and a lifelong member And to the Gaels of Connacht an of the Corran Park Committee in example we have shown. It’s at the opening ceremony our Ballymote. It has been reproduced Pastor will be there, here from the programme of the The site it is adjacent to the old Our beloved Canon Roughneen, to official opening of the park that was historic town bless the spot so fair. enacted on 1 May 1949. Mr Regan And stately in the background Keash When he’ll raise his hand to heaven I was a candidate in the 1980 fun Hill looks smiling down. trust the Almighty God election for the titles of 13th Baron of The scene is fair and picturesque and Will pour down his choicest blessings Ballymote & Viscount of Corran that lovely to behold upon this dear old sod. succeeded in taking Corran Park out With the abbey and the castle, far- of debt for the first time in its history. famed in days of old. God bless our noble soggorth, Father Michael F featured in the March 1980 Denis is his name, BBC Nationwide programme ‘The When travelling down the Sligo Road, He is our gallant leader who loves the Baron of Ballymote’. This programme oh, what a lovely view! good old game. can be accessed on YouTube.

37 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 Chapel Hill Mary Kelly-White I was born and raised and went to in the school, but sometimes parents Second Class in the big school which school in Sligo in the 1940s, 50s and objected to their children sitting beside was built in 1888, and called Scoil 60s, from age 5 to 18. I spent much orphans. Naomh Phadraig. It was a girls-only of that time on Chapel Hill, attending My family got parcels from our school also. school from Infants right through to cousins in America who were older The same pertained for the little Leaving Certificate in 1956. than we were and my parents took the boys from Schoil Fatima, after First It was towards the end of the cholera clothes apart, made short pants and Confession and First Holy Communion epidemic. The Mercy Nuns were well jerkins for my four brothers, as well they moved on to the Christian established on Chapel Hill, having as cutting down the coats for my two Brother’s National School on Quay laboured through the cholera years. St sisters and me. My father repaired / Street, now situated in Temple Street, Laurence’s Orphanage and St Anne’s soled our shoes and they lasted forever. Sligo. Laundry were grim reminders of the He was so good at making ‘ponnies’ The Nuns were powerful women. awful decades of sickness and poverty (tin mugs) and milk cans from tin cans, They had 35 to 50 students in each which had only just passed. I was never that his brother said that ‘there was a class, sometimes two classes in one inside the orphanage. It was behind good tinker lost in him’. Plastic hadn’t big room, and only one Nun in charge a high wall with a small entrance, yet arrived on the scene, and delph was of each class. They taught discipline, as was the Laundry. I remember the scarce and expensive. reading, writing, maths, proper trundling noise from the Laundry, the Built in 1849, St Patrick’s Mercy pronunciation, religion, Irish, how to soapy steamy smell, and the sight of Convent was – and still is – an listen and repeat what was delivered the big king-size sheets sticking to impressive building, standing on 4.13 including the sermon in the cathedral the massive wringers; the precision of acres of land. On the ground floor were at the 10.30am children’s mass every the women retrieving the sheets one two parlours, a reception room, dining Sunday, which we had to write on by one, holding four corners, hands room, kitchen, laundry, two pantries, Mondays. We were taught respect for meeting, sheets folded perfectly and two stores, a self-contained flat, and ourselves and others. stacked properly. If St Anne’s Laundry more. ‘If it was taught at the school it had was similar to the infamous Magdalene On the first floor: 12 bedrooms, two to be learned,’ was the motto of most of Laundries, we did not know. As far bathrooms and a kitchenette. the parents then. Neither religion nor as we were aware it was an industry On the second floor: TV room, 19 Irish was rammed down our necks. The which gave employment. St Anne’s bedrooms and three bathrooms. Nuns just taught and we just learned. Laundry put a horse-drawn van on In 1877 the lovely Romanesque Gone are the days! And we learned the road to collect and return laundry, chapel, standing on 5,000 sq ft was courage and how to have confidence and the story circulated that the driver built and still stands in perfect repair, in ourselves. One day during class went to the Ursuline Convent which but is no longer used as a chapel. In in the early 50s when our classroom was (and still is) on Finisklin Road in 1895 the Noviciate Wing was built overlooked the green field between the Sligo, and asked the Reverend Mother comprising: two schools, Sr Damien RIP, excused ‘If she had any dirty habits?’ I have no Ground floor: conference room, two herself from the room and showed up idea when either the Orphanage or the reception rooms, shower and toilets. two minutes later confronting ESB Laundry ceased to operate. First floor: 12 bedrooms, bathroom, workmen who were setting about All the buildings and the land on toilets. sinking a pole in the middle of the both sides of Chapel Hill belonged First floor, second floor: 13 bedrooms, field. On gut instinct, and against the to the Mercy Order of Nuns. Where bathroom, shower and toilets. general rules, she protested against the Chapel Hill met Chapel Street, which Still on the ‘Hill but opening on to ESB cutting diagonally through the runs between the Hill and the Garda Pearce Road, Scoil Fatima opened field, stressing that the Convent might Barracks, there was a big green iron for little boys in 1883. A large field be in position some day to build on that gate which was closed at night, and a divided Scoil Fatima from the girls- field. We watched in awe as Sr Damien smaller gate left open. All the children only Primary Infants school. Babies rent her garments demonstrating how used that entrance. I remember orphans for children four and a half to five the poles should be sunk behind the looking cold and hungry and weepy, years old, High Infants, Senior First Pearce Road boundary wall to prevent wearing cotton dresses in winter time. and First classes were held in this the cost of re-locating them at a later Everyone was sorry for them, but one-storey building. Not every child date. most of the children at the school then passed through all four classes but it I don’t remember how long it took were the same; there were no chain was a great grading system. Little girls but she succeeded. When she returned stores, the only difference was that the received the Sacraments of Penance to the classroom she was flushed and orphans always seemed to be crying. and Holy Eucharist (First Confession excited. She told us never to be afraid Orphans, and that is what they were and First Holy Communion), from to speak up. We might be wrong and called, attended the regular classes First Class before moving on to we might be overruled but have the

38 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 courage of our convictions. The Mercy was expanding; in 1964 all of whom were my teachers. By There was a Cookery and Sewing Scoil Caitriona was established for 1993 only 6 to 10 Nuns remained in School with Sr Virgilia. In 1946 the the Girls Primary. Lay teachers were Sligo and they moved to an old stone Nuns were were considering secondary arriving year on year. In 1993 Scoil building called Bethany Hill, which education, and a commercial school Fatima, Scoil Niamh Phadraig and was originally an old National School, was introduced for girls who did not Schoil Caitriona were amalgamated on St Patrick’s Avenue, only yards want to continue education but wanted and became a mixed / co-educational away from Chapel Hill. to get jobs in the Civil Service and called Our Lady of Mercy Primary, By September 2005 there were 516 in offices with short-hand and typing with a majority of lay teachers. In pupils, 39 teachers and 16 special skills. There were only nine girls in 1976 a massive new secondary school needs teachers in Mercy College. the First Year of Secondary Top in was built on the land that was formerly By 2010 there were 380 pupils, 35 1949/50, which is what it had to be convent lawns and gardens. This teachers and 11 special needs teachers. called because of the small number. college was extended in 1989, 1992 In 2004 the Convent became They decided on a uniform, navy and 2001 to include basketball and Globe House accommodating 220 gymslip, white long-sleeved blouse, other pitches. - 250 Asylum seekers from many navy blazer with blue trim, navy hats In 1991 the Mercy Convent went nationalities across the world. and barrettes with OLM (Our Lady of under the hammer, with auctioneer Sandwiched between Globe House Mercy) crest, which Summerhill and Dermot Mc Dermott. Many of the and Mercy College Sligo at the top the Ursuline Colleges translated as Old powerful women were gone to their of the Hill, and St Anne’s Youth Club Lousy Maids. reward in God, or were no longer needed: at the bottom, all the buildings on the In 1956 with eleven other girls we sat Sisters Dorothy, Agnes, Veronica, ‘Hill are in private commercial use and the Leaving Certificate Examination Philippa, Magdalene, Brendan, Leo, in impeccable repair. Chapel Hill road and my time on Chapel Hill was over. Eucaria, Aquinas, Virgilia, Emmanuel, feeds off a busy Roundabout – Chapel Although I never left Sligo for any Dominic, Berkmans, Damien, Loyola, Street, Abbey Street, and Crannmore. length of time I had no business back Missericordia, Incarnata, Gabriel, on the Hill. Augustine, Eymard, and Annuncia, Wedding Bells in 1914 Submitted by Padraig Doddy This report originally appeared in the The party were afterwards entertained Waithamstowe, London, pearl and Sligo Champion of 13 June 1914. to ‘déjeuner’ in the Royal Mail Hotel, amethyst pendant and brooch Kingstown, after which the happy Rev Mother and community, Banada On 2 June [1914] at St Michael’s Church, couple left by the 1:40pm boat from Convent, silver cake basket Kingstown, a very pretty wedding was Kingstown en route for London and Sister Imelda, Banada Convent, solemnised, the contracting parties Paris, where the honeymoon will be embroidered tea cloth being Dr MJ Ahern, son of the late spent. Sister MJ Angela, Doo, Belleek doctor and Mrs Ahern, Brosna, Co afternoon tea set Kerry, and Nora, daughter of Mr John Presents Rev Mother Mercy Convent Swinford, O’ Dowd, MP and Mrs O’Dowd, Dathi The following is a list of the presents: embroidered tea cloth House, Bunninadden, Co Sligo. Bridegroom to bride, gold watch, Sister Mary Rose, mother of pearl beads There was a large attendance of the bracelet and silver-mounted dressing and prayer book friends of both parties. The bride, who case Mother Edan, Mercy Convent, was given away by her father, was Bridegroom to bridesmaid, diamond Ballymote, cushion charmingly attired in a gown of saxe pendant Sister Margret Mary, Mercy Convent, blue Irish poplin, and wore a beautiful Bride to bridegroom, gold cuff links and Collooney, prayer book cream leghorn hat to match, and was diamond scarf pin: Mr and Mrs Mc Nulty, Ballina, silver attended, as bridesmaid, by her sister, Mr O’Dowd, cheque Mrs O’Dowd, tea and coffee service and tray Miss Nan O’Dowd, who looked pretty house linen Ms L Mc Elroy, Knockalass, brass kettle in a dress of white silk, with hat to Rev J O’Dowd, CC, Irish lace blouse and stand match. and scarf Mother , Loretto Convent, The marriage ceremony was performed Rev DJ O’Grady, PP, dinner service Dublin, Tennyson’s works by the Rev J O’Dowd, CC, brother Very Rev Canon O’Connor, PI, morning Miss L Shaw, Ballyfahey, cut-glass of the bride, assisted by the Rev DJ and evening tea service cruet O’Grady, PP, Bunninadden; Rev M Rev R O’Donnell, CC, set of carvers in Miss Freyne, Dublin, cut glass pin tray Canon O’Connor, Gurteen; and Rev M case and scent bottle O’Flaherty, CC, Brosna. Mrs MJ Davey Fairmount, Mr John Shaw, Ballyfahey, silver cake 39 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 basket silver spoons in case Damask tablecloth, Mr P Wynne, Wexford, case of dinner Mr Jim Lavag, Knockalass, silver Miss S Corrigan, case of silver tea knives and forks mounted dish spoons Mrs Morrison, Woodhill House, Mr MJ McManus, Tobercurry, cheque Miss M Duffy, Bunninadden, silver embroidered pillow shams Mr F Morrison, Goldfield, travelling kettle and stand Miss Dorry Morrison, Doo, crumb rug Miss B Hunt, Sligo, counterpane brush and tray Mr John Scanlon, Bunninadden, cut- Miss M Keirns, Bunninadden, fruit dish Miss C Hunt, Tobercurry, silver cake glass cruet Miss M Wynne, Everlawn, Damask basket Mrs Breslin, Doocastle, pendant tablecloth Miss M Burke, Doo, Embroidered Mrs Gallagher, Doo, gold brooch Miss J Hunt, Bunninadden, jam dish sideboard cloth Mrs Gilmartin, Sligo, case of fish knives Miss KA Morrison, Cloonaghan, Miss Sarah and Mr JP O’Dowd, and forks Damask tablecloth Goldfield, silver mounted pickle ernet Mr JH Mc Dermott, Bunninadden, Miss K Mc Cann, Cloonameehan, jelly Miss Katie O’Dowd, Belix, Omagh, Beleek tea service and tray dishes silver mounted butter dish Mr John Graham, Quarryfield House, Miss A Pilkington, Ballyfahey, silver Mr and Mrs Killoran, Bunninadden, set of candles in case spoons cosey and cushion Miss K Mc Gettrick, , box of Miss O Connell, Bunninadden, China Mr R Hall, Templehouse, travelling rug embroidered handkerchiefs and Irish tea Set Mrs Lipsett, Ballymote, Irish crochet lace collar Lizzie Mc Gettrick, Tobercurry, cushion collar and cuffs Mrs and miss D Crowley, Kinlough, set Ms O’Dowd and Mr MH O’Dowd, Mrs Heally, Lecarrow, Damask of carvers in case drawing room suite tablecloth Mr John Morisson, Wood Hill, hall set Mr and Mrs R Morrison, Abbeyville, Mrs K Gallagher, Cloonameehan,

The Ballymote ICA choir in the 1970s. Back row: Ann Harrison, Paddy Rogers, Concie Rogers, Eileen Cawley, Mollie Cawley, Una Connelly. Keenan Johnson Middle row: Bernadette Martin, Kay Tansey, Rosaleen McElvaney, Patricia Tansey, Mary Banks Centre front: Clare Martin, Mary Banks

40 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 Sligo in Ulysses Neal Farry When Leopold Bloom and Stephen Dedalus traversed the city of Dublin on the 16th June 1904 with separate but eventually converging fictional peregrinations, it seemed that every possible observation, memory, perception, intuition, association of ideas and conversation were expressed, experienced and conveyed through multiple literary techniques. Bloom’s perambulations from his home at No 7 Eccles Street through much of Dublin and back to his north city home in one day was a simulation of the wanderings of the Greek hero Odysseus (known as Ulysses in Latin) from Troy to his home in Ithaca, an island off the Greek coast after the Trojan Siege, a journey that continued for ten years. During the voyage, Ulysses’ ship landed on the island of Cyclops which was inhabited by one-eyed giants. In the Cyclops episode in the 1904 Dublin story the advertising agent Bloom and some drinking companions are conversing in Kiernan’s pub in Little Britain Street. Bloom is not drinking and Michael Cusack is clearly portrayed in an unflattering manner as ‘The Citizen’. Joyce clearly implies that these hostile, tunnel- vision, nationalistic Dubliners are a mirror image of the one-eyed giants of Cyclops. Here is a portion of the dialogue: The Book of Ballymote So everyone had a laugh at Bloom out his handkerchief to swab himself “But do you know what a nation and says he, trying to muck out of it: dry. “Here you are, citizen,” says Joe. means?” says John Wyse. “or also living in different places.” “Take that in your right hand and “Yes”, says Bloom. “That covers my case,” says Joe. repeat after me the following words: “What is it?” says John Wyse. “What is your nation, may I ask?” ‘The much-treasured and intricately “A nation?” says Bloom. “A nation says the citizen. “Ireland”, says embroidered ancient Irish facecloth is the same people living in the same Bloom. “I was born here. Ireland.” attributed to Solomon of Droma and place.” The citizen said nothing only Manus Tomoltagh og MacDonogh, “By God, then,” says Ned, laughing, cleared the spit out of his gullet and authors of the Book of Ballymote was “if that’s so I’m a nation for I’m living gob, he spat a Red Bank oyster out then carefully produced and called in the same place for the past five of him right in the corner. “After you forth prolonged admiration. No need years.” with the push, Joe”, says he, taking to dwell on the legendary beauty of

41 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 the corner-pieces, the acme of art, Jews, that is hated and persecuted at nationalism was an imitation of wherein one can distinctly discern that very moment and instant. (Page the original English model, rather each of the four evangelists in turn 430 to 432, Penguin 20th-Century than a radical renovation of the presenting to each of the four masters classics, 1992 edition). consciousness of the Irish race. his evangelical symbol a bog-oak Professor Declan Kiberd of UCD, in One of Joyce’s biographers, Peter sceptre, a North American puma (a far his introduction to the Penguin edition Costello, has noted that when John nobler beast than the British article, of Ulysses, outlines a rationale for the Joyce, the author’s father, completed be it said in passing), a Kerry calf and catalogue of mocking and burlesque the official 1901 Census form in his a golden eagle from Carrantuohill. contempt of Irish places and of the own hand, he recorded that his sons The scenes depicted on the emunctory Book of Ballymote as displayed by James and Stanislaus both spoke and field, showing our ancient duns and Joyce in the Kiernan Pub episode. wrote Irish. They had not learned raths and cromlechs and grianauns Dr Kiberd explains that while Joyce the native language at school but and seats of learning and maledictive was writing Ulysses he was reacting in the Gaelic League. In May 1901 stones, are as wonderfully beautiful against the cult of Cuchulainn which James Joyce attended a meeting and the pigments as delicate as when was purveyed in the ‘Celtic Twilight’ of committed Gaelic language the Sligo illuminators gave full rein literature of Pearse, Yeats and Lady enthusiasts on the topic ‘School to their artistic fantasy long, long Gregory. Yeats believed in ancient and the Nation’, which dealt largely ago in the time of the Barmecides, heroism and wished to make it live with the role of the Glendalough, the lovely lakes of again in Ireland. Joyce was more in modern education. The audience Killarney, the ruins of Clonmacnoise, modern. He contended that the list was recorded in ‘An Claidheamh Cong Abbey, Glen Inagh and the ordinary was the proper domain of Soluis’, the Gaelic League paper Twelve Pins, Ireland’s Eye, the Green the artist, arguing that sensationalism edited by , with whom Hills of Tallaght, Croagh Patrick, the and heroics could safely be left to Joyce was acquainted. Kiberd also brewery of Messrs Arthur Guinness, journalists. In Mr Kiberd’s view noted that Joyce had learned Irish at Son and Company (Limited), Lough Joyce objected to the Cuchulainn cult Pearse’s Gaelic League classes but had Neagh’s banks, the vale of Avoca, because it helped to perpetuate the libel abandoned these on discovering that Isolde’s tower, the Mapas obelisk, of the pugnacious Irish overseas, while Pearse could not praise Irish without Sir Patrick Dun’s hospital, Cape denigrating the English language. Clear, the glen of Aherlow, Lynch’s Pearse later corrected the fault. castle, the Scotch house, Rathdown This bone of contention with the Union Workhouse at Loughlinstown, Gaelic Revival on the part of Joyce Tullamore jail, Castleconnell rapids, goes a long way to account for the Kilballymacshonakill, the cross portrayal of Michael Cusack (The at Monasterboice, Jury’s Hotel, S. Citizen), the founder of the Gaelic Patrick’s Purgatory, the Salmon Leap, Athletic Association, as a boorish, Maynooth college refectory, Curley’s xenophobic, racist, anti-Semitic, hole, the three birthplaces of bigot. Professor Kiberd first duke of Wellington, the rock of emphasises that the nationalism that Cashel, the bog of Allen, the Henry is asserted in Kiernan’s Pub can be Street Warehouse, Fingal’s Cave – all interpreted as a neurotic reaction to these moving scenes are still there An illustration of Prince Cormac Englishness. By the device of national for us today rendered more beautiful Mac Airt being suckled by a she- parallelism, , still by the waters of sorrow which wolf by Stephen Reid (1910) and Irish-administered athletics have passed over them and by the rich can be presented as an antidote to incrustations of time.’” gratifying the vanity of a minority of soccer, rugby, hockey and athletics In response to the above lengthy, self-heroicising nationalists at home. administered on the English model. deranged and outlandish description To Joyce, Cuchulainn’s aggression This view of Cusack as illustrated of a fanciful illustration from the and pain seemed to be an ill-disguised by Joyce in the Cyclops episode Book of Ballymote (circa 1391AD), version of the ‘muscular Christianity’ fails to take into account the fact that Leopold Bloom informs his fellow preached in British public schools. the games codified in Great Britain drinkers that he, as well as being an Joyce heaped ridicule on the ‘Irish and imported into Ireland during Irishman, also belongs to a race, ie the Cultural Revival’ because its the last decades of the 19th century

42 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 were exclusively the preserve of the Garvin, a native of Keash, has alluded exclaims: “I’m suffering the agony of Irish middle classes. These games to the fact that Joyce wrote to a friend, the damned. By the hoky fiddle, I’m were not played on Sundays, and Carlo Linati, in September 1920, thankful those funny little chaps are the manual workers and farmers sending him a schema of Ulysses. not unanimous. If they were they’d who laboured until sunset six days a In his letter Joyce asserted that his walk me off the face of the bloody week could not participate. It must book was a sort of encyclopaedia. globe.” (P639 Penguin, 1992) also be acknowledged that Joyce At the same time he told Robert John Garvin illustrates the himself was a member of a middle- McAlmon: “I have now written in a background to the aforesaid agonising class family that had declined into great lot of balderdash all over the complaint by Stephen Dedalus, and poverty. Nevertheless Joyce had the damn book.” Garvin believes that as usually happens with any reviewer benefit of a privileged education in some of this balderdash is included in reflecting on any detail of Ulysses, he Clongowes Wood Jesuit College at the embroidered corner-pieces on the proceeds to make what seems like a primary school level and he enjoyed citizen’s handkerchief and the scenes short story, long. Mr Garvin explains a secondary school scholarship to depicted on the emunctory field. that ‘the Monks of the Screw’ was a the Jesuit Belvedere College. He The illustrations depicted on social club founded by John Philpot graduated with a BA degree from Solomon of Droma’s and Tomaltagh Curran (1750 to 1817) whose family University College Dublin. og MacDonogh’s imaginary facecloth home outside , Co Joyce’s private middle-class contain the four evangelists who in Dublin, was known as ‘The Priory’. primary and second level colleges reality adorn the 9th century Book of Here Curran frequently entertained have never been distinguished for their Kells and are making presentations his convivial companions, naming enthusiasm to promote Gaelic games. to each of the Four Masters, the them in a song ‘The Monks of the One wonders did his educational and chroniclers of the 17th century Annals. Screw’. social background create an irrational According to Garvin this type of John Garvin also notes that Curran hostility to the GAA, a body that had absurd, anarchic composition is was a member of the Irish Parliament, provided sporting outlets for the vast simply set piece, parody and juvenile a popular barrister and a prominent majority of , the manual- mockery. defence counsel in the trials of the working male and female population, After all of Ulysses’ sailors, with United Irishmen. He defended Wolfe when that Association spread like the exception of those in his own Tone. His daughter, Sarah Curran, a prairie fire in the 1880s. One feels ship, had died violently in the land was the sweetheart of Robert Emmet. that his portrayal of Cusack is unfair, of the Laestrygonian cannibals, the Curran often visited Sligo and he biased and a product of his own class remaining ship reached the island of was always entertained there by Bob experience. Aeaea that was ruled by the goddess Lyons, a rich attorney who lived in Professor Joseph Kelly (Charleston Circe. After an invitation to a feast in Mullaghmore. College, South Carolina) contributes her palace Circe changed some of the When addressing a jury, the a further insight to Joyce’s view of sailors into pigs. Ulysses, with the aid Rathfarnham barrister made it his Ireland before he compiled Ulysses. of a magic herb, freed them from their practice to concentrate on whatever Mr Kelly has recorded some relevant enchantment. juror seemed to him to look most facts as follows: The Circe experience is an hostile to his case. Once he had ‘In an article written in 1907 on the appropriate metaphor for the next brought the recalcitrant one to show death of the John O’Leary, episode in 1904 Dublin. Stephen signs of sympathy with his pleading, Joyce identified the Irish character Dedalus and his friends are carousing Curran felt convinced that he had as dominated by a tendency toward in Bella Cohen’s brothel in Nighttown, the whole jury behind him. This betrayal. In the ‘Home Rule Comet’ Montgomery St (Monto). Stephen is procedure he called ‘making the jury written in 1910, Joyce also personified mimicking his absent father, Simon unanimous’. Ireland as a betrayer with these Dedalus. Stephen dresses up as a mock One winter Curran’s carriage got sentiments: ‘She abandoned her own cardinal. He refers to his friends and stuck in a snowdrift near Riverstown, language. She betrayed her heroes, himself as ‘monks of the screw’ i.e. Co Sligo, and the Dubliner was always in the hour of need and always the corkscrew. After singing a verse obliged to lodge overnight in the local without gaining recompense. She has of ‘Nell Flaherty’s Drake’ Stephen shebeen. Next morning the landlady hounded her spiritual creators into feels a multitude of midges swarming expressed the hope that Curran had exile only to boast about them.’ over his robe. He scratches himself had a good night’s sleep. The Irish Joycean scholar, John with crossed arms, grimacing and “How could I rest,” demanded

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Curran, “with all the fleas in this man is an angry man. Working tooth a student at UCD, which was then damned village eating me alive, one and jaw. Don’t! O! A bone! That last located in Newman House in St regiment pulling me from another.” pagan king of Ireland Cormac in the Stephen’s Green, Joyce was a frequent “I never knew there to be a flea in school poem choked himself at Sletty visitor to the National Library this house. Pulling you round, you southward of the Boyne. Wonder what and presumably to the Royal Irish say,” protested the landlady. was he eating. Something galoptious. Academy in Dawson Street. Perhaps “Yes pulling! By heavens, woman! Couldn’t swallow it however.” (P.215 his familiarity with the Book of And if they were unanimous and all - Penguin 20th Century Classics, Ballymote and its contents resulted in pulled the one way, they’d have pulled 1992.) it receiving two references in Ulysses. me out of the bed entirely.” To add vigour to his claim that SL Goldberg, while evaluating and John Garvin says it is clear that Cormac was a native of Keash, analysing the structure of Ulysses, Joyce had a truncated version of this Mr Garvin quotes from Ogygia, a emphasises that its flaws are both tale and that he transformed the fleas book written in Latin by Roderick deep and serious: ‘The busy ant-like from Curran’s story into the midges O’Flaherty (1630-1718), translated industry with which he piles in detail, that tormented Stephen Dedalus in the into English by Rev James Healy his inability always to select the Circe section of Ulysses. Mr Garvin and published in Dublin in 1793. necessary from the available, the itch also recalled a few lines of an old He cites O’Flaherty in the following to get everything in, produce some ballad commemorating Curran’s curse terms: ‘Cormac, the son of Artur the maddening exhibitions of misdirected in Co Sligo, which ends: ‘Bad luck to Melancholy, after the Battle of Crinna elaboration. He seems to worry his the night I met Riverstown fleas.’ ascends the throne in 254 AD. He material almost obsessively at times’. We have only Curran’s word for was called Cormac O Cuinn, as being Joyce’s penchant for encyclopaedic the alleged infestation. And if the grandson of Conn of the Hundred showboating is also evident in his offending fleas ever existed, modern Battles, and Cormac Chorainn, as second reference to the Book of husbandry and chemical warfare being born in Corann, at Athcormaic, Ballymote in Ulysses. In the Ithaca have well and truly eliminated near the mountain Ceis (in Co Sligo).’ episode Leopold Bloom and Stephen their descendants in that currently The second reference to Cormac Mac Dedalus are sitting in Bloom’s kitchen reputable, industrious, neat, and Airt can be found near the end of the in No 7 Eccles Street in the early hours house-proud village. novel in the Ithaca episode. of June 17. In the modern Ulysses story Bloom Virtually all literary critics have In the Greek epic Ithaca is the home rescues Stephen Dedalus after the observed the encyclopaedic mind of of the hero Ulysses and in Joyce’s younger man goes berserk with drink Joyce as demonstrated in Ulysses. 1904 story the hero Bloom, the Irish- and breaks a chandelier in the brothel. Ballymote historian JC McDonagh born Jew, has likewise reached his The two men stay together until the quotes Dr Athkinson’s description home. Stephen Dedalus is the modern end of the novel. of the Book of Ballymote: ‘It embodiment of Telemachus, the son John Garvin, a proud Keashman, forms a miscellaneous collection, of the Greek Ulysses. is anxious that two references to a bibliotheca, in which the scribe Bloom and Dedalus discussed another native son of his own ancient endeavours to preserve, as faithfully many topics, one of them being the community, ie King Cormac Mac as he could, the valuable documents similarities between the Irish and Airt, who features in the modern that antiquity had handed down the Jewish cultural and political Ulysses, are not overlooked in any without concerning himself with experiences. Fragments of verse commentary on the celebrated novel. observance of any particular order from the ancient Hebrew and Irish As I have already intimated, most of in their arrangement’. In other languages were cited. The pair the classical Ulysses’ sailors perished words the Book of Ballymote is an compared the phonic symbols of both in the land of the Laestrygonian encyclopaedia without alphabetical languages. cannibals. Our more mundane modern order. The last chapter in the Book In the manner of a catechism the hero Leopold Bloom decided to have of Ballymote is a translation in Irish following question is posed: “What lunch in the Burton restaurant in Duke from the Greek of the destruction of points of contact existed between Street. Here he was disgusted by the Troy and the wanderings of Odysseus, these languages and the peoples repulsive eating habits of the diners who is known in Latin literature as who spoke them?” Joyce’s character who resembled the Greek cannibals. Ulysses. Joyce was well acquainted Bloom responds mentally with a “Am I like this?” he asks himself. with Charles Lamb’s English version stream of consciousness and here I “See ourselves as others see us. Hungry of Ulysses from his youth. While paraphrase his meditation:

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‘The presence of guttural sounds, diacritic aspirations, epenthetic and servile letters in both languages: their antiquity, both having been taught on the plain of Shinar, 242 years after the deluge in the seminary instituted by Fenius Farsaigh, descendant of Noah, progenitor of Israel, and ascendant of Heber and Heremon, progenitors of Ireland: their archaeological, genealogical, hagiographical, exegetical, homilectic, toponomastic, historical and religious literatures comprising the works of rabbis and culdees, Torah, Talmud (Mischna and Ghemara) Massor, Pentateuch, Book of the Dun Cow, Book of Ballymote, Garland of , Book A view over Riverstown village of Kells: their dispersal, persecution, narrative: “Bloom assented covertly which none of us can escape. Professor survival and revival: the isolation of to Stephen’s rectification of the Kiberd contends that what seemed like their synagogical and ecclesiastical anachronism involved in assigning random incidents are revealed in the rites in ghetto (S. Mary’s Abbey) the date of the conversion of the Irish end to be part of some fore-ordained and masshouse (Adam’s and Eve’s nation to Christianity from druidism plan: “There is a providence in the fall tavern): the proscription of their by Patrick, son of Poitius, sent by of a sparrow, the hairs on our heads national costumes in and Celestine in the year 432 in are numbered, and the man of genius Jewish dress acts : the restoration the reign of Leary, to the year 260 or makes no mistakes. His errors are the of Chanan David of Zion and the thereabouts in the reign of Cormac portals of discovery.” possibility of Irish political autonomy Mac Airt, suffocated by imperfect A Walton Litz, a New York or devolution.’ (P806 – 807, Penguin, deglutition of aliment at Sletty and academic, says that Joyce laboured to 1992) interred at Rosnaree.” a pattern already laid out and fixed in In this extract the tone of lampooning John Garvin points out that both his mind. Each fragment of material derision is considerably lessened. The characters are in error about the date he gathered was marked for a specific Irish-Jewish hero of the novel, Leopold of Patrick’s mission to Ireland. There place in the novel’s general design. Bloom, is presented with empathy is ample documentary evidence to The entire novel, with all its complex by the author and the combined affirm the 432AD date for the saint’s internal allusions, seems to have cultural formative experiences of landfall in Co Down. (P777, Penguin, been constantly present for him as an Bloom himself and of his protégé, 1992). ‘image’. Stephen Dedalus, are embraced, There are two significant vignettes Emboldened by these generous acknowledged and celebrated by the of in the Book of commendations of Ulysses by the characters with a degree of scholarly Ballymote. The first is a glowing three aforementioned eminent detachment. Declan Kiberd elucidates description of Cormac on the Festival professors, we may rest assured for us that Joyce’s portrayal of his of . The second entry that the references and allusions to protagonist, Bloom, depicted the Irish pertaining to King Cormac in our 14th our native county in Ulysses were as quiescent, long-suffering but astute century manuscript is a legal essay on specifically inserted by Joyce to bring people, very similar in mentality to statecraft in which the King addresses totality to his grand creative scheme. the Jews. It should be noted that the his son. Both these extracts may be Similarly, the Book of Ballymote Book of Ballymote contains a history accessed in English translations in JC was the outcome of a fore-ordained of the Jewish peoples. It seems likely McDonagh’s history Ballymote and plan by its patron, Tomaltagh Mac that Joyce was well aware of the the Parish of Emlaghfad on pages 15, Donagh, Taoiseach Chorainn. This contents of that 14th century tome 17 and 18. far-sighted design was to preserve from Co Sligo. TS Eliot said that Ulysses is a book the literature, genealogy, history, In the Ithaca section we read in a to which we are all indebted and from geography and laws of his nation.

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The historian Dr Petrie and the poet (Chatto & Windus, 1963) distinguished career in the Irish Civil Matthew Arnold were of one voice Joyce – The Years of Growth 1882- Service with a life-long study of in stating that tomes like the Book of 1915 – A Biography, Peter Costello Joyce. He has written and lectured Ballymote could not have been written (Kyle Cathie 1992) widely in Ireland, the UK and the US by fools or for any foolish purpose. Disunited Kingdom & the Irish on Anglo-. He delivered Consequently, it is with a modicum Dimension, John Garvin, 1976. the memorial James Joyce memorial of justified self-esteem we can regard John Garvin – a Memoir, Tom Garvin, lecture in the University of Zurich in the fact that Joyce’s Ulysses has made UCD (in Keash & Culfadda – A local 1966 when the body of Joyce’s wife, manifest Ballymote’s most illustrious History) Nora, was interred beside his remains. publication to a worldwide readership Popular : The Garvin has won an international for almost a century. Codification Process 1750 – 1885, reputation and has written under the Colm Farry (MA in Humanities – pseudonym ‘Andrew Cass’. In 1969 Sources History, DCU – 2001). Dublin Corporation was dissolved by Ulysses, Penguin 20th Century Ballymote & The Parish of Emlaghfad, ministerial order for refusing to strike Classics, 1992 (Introduction by JC McDonagh (Sligo Champion a rate. Dr Garvin, who had retired Declan Kiberd) 1936). from the civil service, was appointed Ulysses and Us – The Art of Everyday Our Joyce - From Outcast to Icon, Dublin City Commissioner or head of Living, Declan Kiberd (Faber & Faber Joseph Kelly (University of Texas the city administration. He held this 2009) Press, 1998) post until 1973. The Classical Temper – A Study of Dr John Garvin, a native of James Joyce’s Ulysses, SL Goldberg Carrowcrory, Keash, combined a

Ballymote 1915-1921 Mary Gaffney As far back as 1915 the youth of involved in the raid in February 1918 man, Mr Keaney caught him by the Ballymote were in revolt. They on Rockingham, the home of Sir collar of his coat but in the struggle saw Home Rule as a new form of Thomas Stafford, the first raid for arms the top of one of Mr Keaney’s fingers restriction, recruiting was going on after the 1916 Rising, where it was was bitten off at the joint, which still all over the country and suddenly the known there were guns for the use of bears the scar. entire situation seemed intolerable. guests for the shooting. Alex McCabe, Alex McCabe tied the joint tightly So it was in 1915, just after the start later a Sinn Fein TD for Sligo, was in with a handkerchief but despite this of World War I, that the young men charge of the operation. Others taking blood gushed from the wound. Inside of Ballymote made their own protests. part were Patrick Delahunty, James they found the gun case locked so Mr They were Alex McCabe, Bernie P Dodd, James Turbitt, James Haran, Kearney pushed his bandaged hand Brady, Matt Leonard, Tom Cawley, Stephen Brennan, John Shreerin, though it, and retrieved three Mauser Tom McManus, Albert and Papie Martin Killalea, Patrick Shreerin, (sniper) rifles, two Lee Enfield rifles, Farry and Batt Keaney, whose protests Patrick Spelman James E Feely, five ladies’ shotguns, 20 other guns, took the form of throwing stones and Michael McGuire, who drove the car, 2,000 rounds of shotgun ammunition, eggs at recruiting meetings. and Batt Keaney, who was chosen to some revolvers and a camera. One At the end of 1915, Tom Cawley knock on the door. Mr Keaney, who of the rifles had a note pushed up the and Tom McManus were arrested for did not carry a gun, had orders to breech of the barrel in front of the tearing down recruiting posters. The grasp whoever answered the door and bolt and it was learned this was the authorities sent them to and hold on to him until assistance came. rifle carried by Stafford King Harmon then to the Curragh, but, not knowing He was 18 years of age. when he died on the battlefield of what to do with them, returned them to As Mr Keaney stood behind the Flanders. Ballymote where they were charged, colonnades which fronted the house, On leaving Rockingham the men tried and let out on bail. the door was opened by the butler, went to Townagh Graveyard, near Batt Keaney was one of 13 men . Although he was a large Riverstown, where they handed the

46 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 arms to Jimmy Walsh who stored was in progress and he immediately victory followed by more victories them on the Ballymote-Castlebaldwin joined. After a fortnight he was in Longford, Clare, South Armagh, road. When the hue and cry died down released and returned to Ballymote. and Kilkenny. Immediately after they were distributed. He later joined the Free State Army the snow election, IRB instructions A week later, on February 16 John and before his retirement reached the were received to secure possession McDermott, Michael Roddy, James rank of Lieut Colonel. He was one of of any known arms, ammunition and Pallas, Alex McCabe, Batt Keaney, the youngest volunteers in the west of explosives in the area. Apart from B Brady, E Killeen, T Cawley, P Ireland. Later he joined the Army and the raid on Rockingham, County Farry, P Rogers, and T Langan were served for 25.5 years. Council magazines and quarries arrested and sent to Sligo for trial, Comdt Keaney was born in May were raided for explosives while charged with unlawfully and by force 1899, the eldest son in a family of attacks and interference with British carrying away a gun and 80 rounds ten, in Treanmacmertagh, Keash. recruiting were a regular occurrence. of ammunition that was the property At the age of three he was sent On the evening of a Quarter Session of Graham Shaw, Riversdale, near to Drumcormack NS to boost the in Ballymote Judge Wakeley and his Riverstown. numbers. His parents were strong resident RIC guard were held under They were the first group who nationalists and his grandfather, an fire in Hannons Hotel, within 50 yards refused to recognise the English old Fenian and Land Leaguer, lived of the RIC barracks, for half an hour. Court, wearing caps and smoking. until he was almost 100 years old. Ceilings were knocked down and Half way through the proceedings Even before he could read, Comdt every window smashed. Next morning Alex McCabe said, ‘We will have a Keaney listened to his grandfather when ball bearings and bicycle chain song now, boys.’ They were given a talk about the Irish Party and politics links were found embedded in the week in Cranmore Jail for contempt in general. After the formation of the walls, a Constable Scott told Comdt of court and it took the police a half Volunteer Army in 1913 he joined the Keaney that one day he would dangle an hour to get them into the military Ballyrush section where training and on the end of a rope. van. Traffic through the street was manoeuvres were carried out with After the birth of the first Dail on 21 blocked by British soldiers keeping wooden guns. January 1919, the Volunteers ordered sightseers away, and on the way to the At the age of 15, Comdt Keaney ‘Land for the people, bullocks for jail the men made things as difficult as was apprenticed to woodwork with an the road’ and grazing ranches were possible. Although eight of them were uncle in Ballymote who was president seized at Keenaghan, Ardsallagh, handcuffed together, Batt Kearney of the local AOH. During his two Cloonlurg, Ardcumber, Rusheen, managed to kick one policeman to years in Ballymote he attended night Ballygawley and Lugacaha. In all the the ground and in the scrimmage classes given by Co Sligo’s most seizures the Volunteers stood guard the bandage fell off his finger which famous teacher, Michael Doyle. In while large tracts were ploughed began bleeding again. 1917 Comdt Keaney opened a bicycle up by local men. Afterwards the On their release from Cranmore and accessories shop in Teeling ploughed land was let on a con-acre they were recharged and sentenced to Street, renting it from Jimmeen Andy, to neighbouring men for cropping. six months imprisonment in Belfast a friend of the RIC and a member of Arrests and imprisonments followed Jail where a riot broke out a few days the AOH. All the younger generation and during the trials the prisoners later. Bedding was smashed and the in Ballymote were members of the shouted slogans, sang national songs, prisoners went out on the jail roof for Volunteers and soon the bicycle shop smoked and threw things at the bench. ten days. Among the prisoners were in Teeling Street became their meeting The result was imprisonment in Sligo, Tom Ashe and P Biasley. When they place. Belfast and Mountjoy prisons. During came down from the roof they were In the early months of 1917 Comdt this time there were four important sentenced to solitary confinement Keaney was sworn into the IRB, events for County Sligo Volunteers: in underground cells. They went on appointed a Lieutenant of Ballymote on 23 August 1917, Freedom of the hunger strike and after eight days Volunteer Company and nominated to Borough of Sligo was conferred on Batt Keaney was moved to the Mater attend lectures and demonstrations in Countess Markievicz; Ballmote’s St Hospital. guerrilla warfare and tactics given by Patrick’s Day Parade in 1918 in which He was released after five days and the late Colonel Ginger O Connell in 21 bands took part; June 1918 when on his way to Ballymote was arrested Sligo. the Freedom of the Borough of Sligo by the RIC and sent to Mountjoy The next three years were eventful. was conferred on Father Michael Prison under the ‘Cat and Mouse’ act. There was the snow election in North O Flanagan; and finally when the There he discovered a hunger strike Roscommon resulting in a Sinn Fein Irish Party, Sinn Fein and Volunteer

47 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 representatives spoke from a common On being given five minutes to Kearney was captured in July 1921 platform in Ballaghaderreen pledging get out of Belfast, Comdt Kearney with three others and tried as Irish to fight at home rather than yield to moved to Wallsend where he found terrorists. They were sentenced to six conscription. employment on a new government years penal servitude in Dartmoor of In October 1919 Comdt Keaney’s ship launched at Swan and Hunter which it is said ‘Abandon hope all ye landlord obtained a court order for Shipyards on the Tyne. His hatred of who enter here.’ eviction and in the autumn he left everything English intensified, and he Ballymote to work in the Belfast and some associates set fire to the ship Mary Gaffney died on 2 January Shipyards of Harland and Wolff while which was reduced to a metal shell 2008. She was a distinguished regional continuing his association with the and sunk beneath the waters of the correspondent for all the Dublin- Volunteers. A few months later the Tyne. based national daily newspapers for pogroms broke out. Comdt Kearney Shortly afterwards he moved many years and also worked for The saw men thrown from ships into the to Liverpool where he joined the . Mary also wrote a docks. When they managed to reach Liverpool Company of the IRA number of plays and sketches for both shore they were beaten unconscious and took part in the burning of radio and theatre. She particularly with iron bars and thrown back into warehouses, farmhouses, the homes wished to have this article published the docks to drown. He saw men of Black and Tans and Auxiliaries, in The Corran Herald. disembowelled and left to die in and the destructions of telegraph and agony. telephone communications. Comdt

A Mother’s Death Submitted By Alfie Banks Lines in memory of Mrs Maria Next morning came the telegram She lived a good and holy life Regan, Carnacreeva, Keash, who Which brought the sad news to me She was resigned to die died 2 May 1939, by Michael Francis That mother had departed To meet our blessed Lord Regan. And gone to eternity Upon his throne so high When I received that awful news I hope He will have mercy The summer sun was shining, I read it over and over On her immortal soul ’Twas in the month of May ’Twas hard for me to realise And bring her eternal bliss The birds were singing merrily That mother was no more That truly-wished goal When mother passed away She left her friends and neighbours ’Twas sad but true, what could I do She loved Our Blessed Lady And the paths she often trod But bear a heavy loss In life and death she came And went for evermore ’Twas on a feast day, the third of May And with her dying lips Unto almighty God The finding of the cross Did often repeat that name It was the greatest trial May Mary always plead for her ’Twas on a Tuesday evening On earth I could endure As in her month she died I’ll never forget that day But death can never be escaped And ask her loving son When I last gazed on her sweet face To meet it we are sure The gates of Heaven to open wide That’s now in cold, cold clay I watched beside her dying bed In Kilmorgan’s lonely churchyard Not knowing death was near I know her body lies I left and took a last farewell I hope her soul is happy Of one I held so dear In the land before the skies Beside my father’s grave She sleeps in sacred clay Waiting for the trumpet call Upon judgement day

48 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 Underground Streams and Canals Without Water Bernie Doyle The waters of Loughs Cara, Mask and while they were out on their regular ever devised by man, and perhaps Corrib in are joined walks. some clever fellow had been keeping together by a maze of underground West of the main Ballinrobe to Cong an eye on things and fancied the trout channels running through a plateau road is the Poll Mór, the Big Hole. for his supper at the most propitious of carboniferous limestone. In fact, This is really a vertical hole in the moment. Lough Mask is so named (Loch Measc) rock giving access to an underground In the early nineteenth century no because it mixes the waters of Corrib river. It was in constant use as a well engineer worth his salt could resist and Cara. A few of these channels can until the 1940s, the river seldom being joining two large expanses of water by be seen through some caves or holes low enough for anyone to do anything canal. Sir Robert Kane had a vision of around Cong. The best-known of these more than to put their head inside. a direct navigation from Ballinrobe via is called the Pigeon Hole, which is not There are two stories told about Poll the river Robe, Lough Mask, through far from Ashford Castle in Cong. Mór. First is the unfortunate tale of a canal and through Lough Corrib A signpost from Ashford Castle a goose belonging to the Foy family, to Galway city – some fifty miles of leads us along a tree-lined path, with which strayed into the hole and was waterway. What a glorious prospect! the Cong river on the right. Across lost for three weeks until it emerged Construction on the canal started as the river we can see the ancient little from a crevice some yards away. It Famine Relief work sometime in the house of stone jutting out onto the was then ravenous, but it was so badly 1840s, and for five years Mr Nimmo of water. This was the Monk’s Fishing affected by the light that it could eat the Board of Works and his colleagues House, associated with Cong Abbey only the first mouthful and then ran supervised an army of labourers and founded by Turlough O’Connor in the into the darkest corner of the shed and stonecutters. They bored thousands twelfth century, and is one of the most refused to come out. There it remained of holes, sixteen foot deep, using only peaceful places in the world. Turlough for three days until it died. hand-operated rock drills to blast a O’Connor, last High King of Ireland, The second story was about the late twenty-square-feet-wide passages spent twelve of his declining years in Canon Neary, who was parish priest through carboniferous limestone. Mr the Abbey. of the parish of Cong, Cross and the Nimmo built many jetties and quays The path turns abruptly to the left Neale. He once found a trout in the around the country but he never seems beside a tall limestone wall, and leads Big Hole that must have lost its way in to have lived at the Cong river, which us to a tunnel under the Cornamona the underground streams. From lack of has a fine flood of water at Ashford road. Here the signpost points to the food the poor trout had such a shrunken bridge but disappears underground just largest of the caves, the Pigeon Hole. body that its head appeared out of all beyond the bridge in Cong village. No We descend sixty-one steps to a cavern proportion to it, so that it resembled a wonder that the arches of this bridge through which runs a river fourteen giant tadpole. The kindly priest rooted sheltered a thriving hedge school for feet wide and ranging from three to around and found some worms to ease many years. twenty feet in depth. We need to take its hunger. And every day for some The locks and sides of the canal a powerful torch (and an alert ear) months Canon Neary would go down are beautifully constructed of cut to follow the windings of the stream there, at about the same hour, with limestone – the first lock about fifty around huge boulders as far as safety worms and other tasty morsels. In a yards north of the bridge at Ashford. permits. short time the trout became so tame A path leads us under the Cong village There are two caves on what is now that it would swim across to the side of bridge to the second lock, which was the golf course at Ashford. The larger the well to take the food from Canon never finished. At different seasons one is called the Horse Discovery. As Neary’s hand without any fear. there is a little residual water in many the name suggests, it was discovered This work of mercy went on until the parts of the canal, but water has never when a man, his plough and his horse trout regained its graceful curves and flowed between this lock and the third fell through the middle of a seemingly normal poise. Then it seems it swam lock at Cornabanny, where you can see solid field into the stream below. The away through those lost underground the line of dry canal from Drumshiel second cave is known as the Lady’s streams to join its fellows in the normal Bridge. Buttery. I haven’t found a reason for rivers. But as every country person The stretch of canal from here to this name, unless some ladies in a knows, the country grapevine is the Lough Mask is dry or wet according previous age used it for a quick snifter most efficient form of communication to the season, or to whether some of 49 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 the underground streams are running a hidden cranny a few hundred yards handball alley. And in Ballinrobe is high or low. At Inishard on Lough away. a well-constructed cut-stone quay, Mask stands the fourth lock, known It would be interesting to know what complete with warehouses that never as the Sluices. Here in summer is a the canal cost but it is a well-kept held any goods, and stone bollards deep, well-cut cabal without a drop of secret. A brief report of 1848 states: to which the picturesque pookawns water in it. Rising above it is a massive ‘The Cong canal was one of the follies sailing from Galway city were never contraption of metal and wood, rack of the Board of Works, abandoned tied. The Mask and Corrib canal, this and pinion, fit to control the seven seas because of carboniferous rock, and strange museum piece, is surely a but with not a cupful of water to operate sold to Lord Ardilaun.’ monument to the folly of man and to on. In winter a few feet of water will be The first lock became an improvised the lack of foresight and planning in flowing up the canal past the useless boathouse. The bed of the canal high places. sluice-gates only to disappear through near the third lock was turned into a The Sligo Port Strike of 1913 Padraig Deignan

The strike of 1913 was the longest and & Co over unloading the SS Sligo most vicious labour dispute in Sligo’s quickly ensued. Arthur Jackson (1853- history. It started on 8 March 1913 and 1938), the key opponent of organised stretched on until resolved on May 6. A labour on the employer side in Sligo, man was killed and there were violent was a prominent businessman who confrontations in the streets and at the had come to Sligo from Belfast. He quays during the two-month strike. had married Alice Polloxfen and The principal organising force behind became managing director of the the strike was the Irish Transport and Harp Tavern Docks. Sligo Steam Navigation Company, General Workers’ Union (ITGWU). At Hall Sligo, 27, 28, 29 May 1901. Director of Sligo Gas Company, the beginning of January 1909 James Back row: P McGowan, P Harte, and head of Arthur Jackson and Son Larkin (1874-1947) had founded the John Dykes, Amalgamated Society of manufacturing fertilizers. ITGWU in Dublin to campaign for Carpenters and Joiners, J O’Connor, The Sligo Independent backed the better pay and working conditions W Neary, J Clancy. Builders Labourers employers while the Sligo Champion for dockers, carters and labourers. In Benevolent Union. supported the workers. The Sligo September 1911 a branch of the Union Front row: James Kivlehan, F dockers soon afterwards merged their was founded in Sligo. Sligo became Gallagher, (Hon Sec) Patrick J Farrell, organisation with the National Union one of the first branches established (President Sligo Trades an Labour of Dock Labourers (NUDL). The outside Dublin, along with branches Council.) Operative Bakers Society. H employers tried to recruit men from in Belfast, Cork, Wexford and Reilly, (Hon Treasurer) Amalgamated Rosses Point to unload the ships while Waterford.1 Society of House and Ship Painters. the NUDL tried to get them to join William Costello, the union. The carters and employers Amalgamated of the merchants at the docks joined Society of Carpenters the union and brought membership to and Joiners. over 400. In April 1890 the union had its first victory and the Sligo Steam A Labour Tradition Navigation Company awarded the Sligo had a long dockers an increase of half a penny an tradition of industrial hour, concessions to those working at action, and in night and the abolishment of the role of March 1890 Sligo stevedore at Sligo docks. The position dockers formed a of the strikers was undermined by The Eight Annual Irish Trades Mutual Protection the availability of blackleg labour Union Congress Association demanding an increase from Rosses Point, and in the end all of 6d an hour, ‘the docker’s tanner’. the workers accepted the Bishop of The Eight Annual Irish Trades Conflict with Arthur Jackson and Elphin, Dr Gillooly’s plea from them Union Congress held in the Town Major Campbell of Harper Campbell to return to work.2

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On 28 January 1891, at the height achieved a complete victory. died there in 1936. His eldest son, of the crises over Parnell’s affair The ITGWU in Sligo Robert M (‘Bertie’) Smylie, moved to with Kitty O’Shea becoming public, The Sligo ITGWU branch was Dublin and became editor of the Irish local concerns took precedence over founded in September 1911 after the Times. national ones when the dock labourers Sligo Trades Council, an organisation The ITGWU in Sligo quickly and artisans of Sligo met in the council which protected skilled, unskilled and became closely allied to the Ancient chambers of the town hall. They were craftsmen and had been in existence Order of Hibernians (AOH) and the there ‘for the purpose of taking into since 1890,4 invited Walter Carpenter, (UIL) through consideration the treatment which a national ITGWU organiser, to speak Henry Reilly, who was the president certain employers of labour had meted and launch a branch.5 The Sligo Trades of the Trades Council, a prominent out to their men for taking part in the Council or the Sligo Council of Trade Hibernian member and Vice-President labour demonstration on St. Stephen’s Unions (SCTU) was a successor of an of the North Sligo Executive of the Day.’ Patrick Farrell, of the Baker’s earlier ‘union’ started in 1883 from UIL. As Michael Wheatley has noted Union and President of the Trades among the ‘Artisans Society’, and in Nationalism and the Irish Party, Council, condemned the employers records of the Sligo branch of the until his death in 1909, PA McHugh for bringing in men from country Amalgamated Society of Carpenters had been ‘a noted campaigner of areas to do work. The demonstrators and Joiners date back to 1871. workers’ rights’ and in 1910 the Sligo in December 1890 had demanded The immediate circumstances Trade Council led the fundraising for better pay and working conditions for surrounding the launching of the a proposed memorial to PA McHugh. the labouring classes in Sligo. ITGWU in Sligo related to a number In February 1891 union labourers of minor labour disputes in the town in Another important UIL and in Sligo went on strike and the Sligo the summer of 1911, which included Hibernian ally of the ITGWU in Champion editorial of 14 February a strike by workers at the Sligo Gas Sligo was Daniel O’Donnell (1853- 1891 supported them, arguing that Company, labourers at Pollexfen’s 1914). O’Donnell was the proprietor ‘the men are determined, [but] the mills, and the participation of Sligo of the Imperial Hotel, Alderman employers unbending and confident’.3 rail workers in a national strike. and Mayor of Sligo in 1913, and he The store men and mill men all turned There was some vocal opposition was Connaught Provincial Director out to support the Sligo dockers. The to the establishment of the ITGWU and National Trustee of the AOH. Sligo Champion were sympathetic in Sligo, and the , Dr O’Donnell was an active supporter to the strikers, maintaining on 14 Clancy, who was anti-socialist, was of the Trades Council and promoted February 1891 that ‘trade unionism is strongly opposed to the organisation better housing for workers. When a force in our social system which has and was reported to have said that O’Donnell died in February 1914 got to be reasoned with’ and ‘yesterday he would drive the ITGWU out of alderman John Lynch, the leader of week the union labourers of Sligo the town ‘at the sacrifice of my life if Sligo ITGWU and vice-president of struck work causing considerable necessary’.6 Clancy found an ally in excitement throughout the town and his opposition to the ITGWU in the neighbourhood. The employers of form of the unionist and conservative Sligo are not inferior in qualities of newspaper, the Sligo Times, which head and heart to employers in any was owned and run by Robert Smylie, part of the world, but they seem to be who was also opposed to what behind their time in their appreciation seemed a revolutionary organisation of the rights of labour.’ supporting worker rights. Smylie’s The strike revolved around the editorial in the Sligo Times scorned employment of non-union dock Carpenter, and ridiculed him as a ‘paid labourers. After two weeks the workers English agitator with his cockney were broken and began to drift back accent’.7 to work. The union was, according Robert Smylie was a Presbyterian to the Sligo Independent, ‘Shattered, who was born in Scotland and forsaken.’ The Sligo Champion made had been on the staff of the Sligo no comment. Union funds had run out Independent for almost twenty years and gains from the previous strike, before he founded the Sligo Times in where at least the union had achieved December 1908. Smylie lived on Mail a negotiated settlement for the Coach Road in Sligo town and was dockers, were negated. The NUDL elected as a representative of the East was destroyed and the Trade’s Council Ward to Sligo Corporation in January also disappeared. The employers had 1912. He later moved to Belfast and John Lynch

51 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 the Trades Council, saluted O’Donnell business interests in Sligo but they July 1912 Larkin visited Sligo and by calling him ‘the greatest friend the were not dominating the business attended a meeting supporting the workers of Sligo ever had’.8 life of Sligo. The Catholic business strikers, which was held in the town John Lynch was born to a fishing community was very significant hall, with Trades Council and ITGWU family in Magherow, Co Sligo, and and politically well-established, and members present including John worked as a deck hand on the harbour Catholic businessmen had much in Lynch and William Gibbons. Patrick tug boat and on lighters between common with Protestant businessmen N White also attended the meeting. Rosses Point and Sligo. He then went and were not completely united with This was Larkin’s second visit to Sligo to sea and was later employed by Sligo their fellow nationalist workers or and on 24 March 1912 he had spoken Harbour Board. He may have joined fellow nationalist politicians. When at a meeting outside the town hall. the Irish Republican Brotherhood in late May and early June 1912 a Dr Clancy, although a supporter of in 1903 in Glasgow and was good dispute over pay occurred between friends with both Sean MacDiarmada the dockworkers of the ITGWU and James Connolly.9 and the Sligo Steam Navigation Company, the Catholic businessmen, John Jinks (1873-1934), who was Thomas Flanagan, provision and coal unanimously voted in as mayor merchant, James P. Higgins, owner of in O’Donnell’s place, supported several bakeries, groceries, general O’Donnell’s encouragement for the stores and pubs, and Edward Foley ITGWU. John Jinks was originally owner of the Riverside Brewery, from in North Sligo and Sligo town’s only brewery at the time, had moved to Sligo town and entered all joined the Employers’ Federation the grocery trade. He set up his own set up by Protestant businessmen James Larkin business in Stephen St as a publican, Middleton, Pollexfen, Harper- auctioneer and undertaker. He was Campbell and others.13 Higgins workers rights, but in keeping with his first elected to Sligo Corporation in later became vice-president of the anti-socialism, had opposed the visit, 1898 and was a strong supporter of Employers’ Federation. calling him ‘an imported mischief the Irish Parliamentary Party and its maker’. However, there was a large leader . He was also Michael Wheatley has maintained turnout for the meeting. The Trades a member of the Hibernians.10Fellow that in Sligo ‘it was the residual Council leaders and O’Donnell had Hibernian member and corporation economic and political strength of not attended that time and although the councillor Patrick N White, who was the town’s Protestant commercial Sligo Champion criticised Larkin’s a chemist, bottler of ‘Holy Cross’ elite which gave common cause to ‘wild’ character and questioned his mineral water and a mill owner, was the Irish party and Labour’14 and concern for the ‘men of Sligo’, the also a supporter of the ITGWU. All the ‘key leitmotif particular to Sligo paper was keen to state that it opposed three men had been strong supporters town, of conflict between the town’s Larkin personally and not the labour of PA McHugh. Protestant minority and Catholic movement.16 Michael Wheatley argues that the majority, confirming the unity of alliance between nationalism and the latter, was played throughout’.15 The 1912 Strike labour was ‘unsurprising, given that However, it appears that Catholic The strike which broke out on 7 June for many years the common enemy of businessmen were eager to exploit 1912 was caused by the demand for Labour and nationalists had not been the Protestant/Catholic animosity an increase of half a penny in wages Catholic merchants and employers in 1912 and 1913 to their advantage for unloading coal boats. Patrick … but the Protestant, unionist, and convince their workers that it Thomas Daly (1870-1946), a printer commercial establishment which was Protestant businesses that were from Dublin and Larkin’s lieutenant, dominated Sligo’s docks (the Harbour keeping the workers down and not was sent to Sligo to organise the Commissioners), shipping (the Sligo Catholic businessmen such as them. strike. He was a member of the IRB, Steam Navigation Company), and They were also using this animosity and in 1906 had been elected for mills (Pollexfen’s).’11He contends to further their own political careers. Sinn Féin to Dublin Corporation. He that ‘Protestants in Sligo were The mayor, Daniel O’Donnell, criticised the merchants but mainly self-confident, socially active, and as well as John Jinks and Patrick N for allowing the stevedore leaders politically assertive’ and therefore White, appeared determined in their and Roycrfot-Verdon-Scanlon ‘in Sligo town as a result, Protestant/ support of the workers. The Sligo to monopolise work at the quays. Catholic antagonism was always Champion also supported the strikers, They were supported in this by Arthur politically, close to the surface’.12 praising their conduct and supporting Jackson. Undoubtedly Protestants had strong their demands for more wages. In

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Larkin with ship and crowd Thomas Scanlon Daly organised a meeting at Rosses Bernard McTernan and Edward Harte, Sligo town AOH brass and reed band. Point where some blackleg labour had who had replaced Reilly as president Peter Heraghty, a trader, Thomas been hired by the merchants. Michael of the club, William Gibbons and Hughes, a monumental contractor and McKeown took over from Daly when John Lynch made a presentation to William Gibbons, a plasterer, were the he was called away and he managed O’Donnell rewarding him for his three other successful candidates. The to recruit the Sligo Corporation support for the workers. O’Donnell three men were all ITGWU members. workers and the carters to the strike. thanked them saying that he supported O’Donnell was unanimously elected A settlement was agreed two weeks the workers’ ‘right to a decent life and mayor for a third term. into the strike.17 The system gave a fair wage’.18 Thomas Scanlon, MP, The 1913 Strike – ‘a long pull and a the ITGWU the right to appoint who was present, tried to ingratiate straight pull’ all stevedores at the port. Larkin himself with the working class, In the first half of 1913 the boasted later that one of the union’s claiming that as a member of the increasing strength of the labour achievements was the fact that ‘we legal profession he was also a trade movement in Sligo, and the UIL and undertake the transport work of Sligo unionist. AOH support for this, allowed labour Port’. The increase in membership In December 1912 O’Donnell spoke concerns to become more important meant they were able to rent new at a meeting of the ITGWU in Sligo. in Sligo than national issues. From premises and they called the building The annual corporation elections March to May 1913 the second Liberty Hall. were coming up in January 1913 round of the dispute occurred at and so O’Donnell called for a ‘one Sligo docks. The first round had been solid phalanx’ at the forthcoming corporation elections. In January 1913 O’Donnell and John Lynch spoke together at a meeting to support Labour/ ITGWU-AOH candidates. O’Donnell and Lynch were clearly using each other’s influence to secure election. Lynch was associating himself with O’Donnell and the UIL while O’Donnell allied himself with Lynch to secure worker support. The Labour/ ITGWU and the AOH candidates won all six seats. John Lynch was elected, as were two close associates of O’Donnell and both Arthur Jackson members of the AOH, Henry Monson, a furniture retailer, and vice-president Sligo branch ITGWU banner In September 1912 at a meeting of the Sligo town AOH, and Henry courtesy of Sligo County Library of Sligo Trades Club, Henry Reilly, Depew, a carpenter and director of the

53 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 unresolved and this time the ITGWU Workers drafted in from Ulster and increased their demands, insisting on Liverpool were escorted by the police a unionised workforce and better pay from the Railway Station to the docks. and conditions for the workers. The Strikers returned to the union offices at strikers consisted of dockers, carters, Lynn’s Place, and from there an angry seamen and mill workers. Nationalist mob marched through Sligo attacking support for strikers came especially businesses that supported blackleg from Jinks and White. Jinks called on labour, and demonstrated outside the ‘fellow workers’ to stand up and win homes of non-union workers, one of their fight, urging ‘a long pull and a which was the Garvey house. Many straight pull’. Jinks maintained that Sligo harbour incidents of vandalism were put as a UIL man he would pressurise down to reckless youths, who were the employers to give in. John Lynch Meanwhile, a non-union local not directly involved with the strike. and Marty Mulligan, secretary of crew completed the unloading, The police and ordinary citizens were the ITGWU in Sligo, led the strike and the ship sailed for Liverpool targeted and the well-known local and they were supported by union carrying livestock, but the main cargo historian Colonel Wood-Martin was organiser Patrick T Daly.19 The remained behind. The vessel later assaulted on Knox Street. While the strikers were also assisted by the returned to Sligo and the company Sligo Times denounced all the strikers grocer/publican Thomas Connolly of tried to have non-union men unload for these acts, the Sligo Champion Holborn St/Victoria Line who gave the ship but this was resisted by the reported that many incidents the dockers food on credit, and by union members aboard who went on of vandalism were put down to Sir Josslyn Gore-Booth, a prominent strike, and were supported by carters. ‘irresponsible rowdies who are using Protestant landowner and owner of the Jackson and Pollexfen, emboldened the opportunity for the gratification of Connacht Manufacturing Company, a by their victory in 1891, decided to their own low instincts’.20 clothing company, who supplied bags take on the workers and deployed all of potatoes for the strikers. their clerical staff as motorists in order What precipitated the dispute which to circumvent the carters’ sympathy began on 8 March occurred when strike. Sligo Steam Navigation workers, The Sligo Times criticised James unloading the SS Sligo, lodged Larkin’s visit to Sligo during the strike, unsuccessful claims for extra help but the Sligo Champion reported that and more wages in connection with the principal leaders of the strike were looking after livestock on cattle boats. John Lynch of Lower Quay Street and Five men who stopped work without Marty Mulligan from Riverside, who giving the required twenty-four hours was the secretary. notice were prosecuted under the When the strike entered its second week, a large force of police were on labour laws; four were sentenced to Police on Horseback seven days imprisonment with hard duty at the quays to protect non-union labour. men unloading various ships. Arthur Striking dockers also forced their Jackson had put together a group way into the ‘Liverpool’ shed where a composed of the Garveys and Verdons number of non-union men, including from the unemployed stevedores. On members of the Garvey family, Saturday 29 March, the dispute had had gone for safety. Following this considerably worsened and sixty incident, Patrick Dunbar, Riverside, extra police were drafted into Sligo. a married labourer and member of A number of dock labourers, sent the Transport Union, was found by the Shipping Federation, arrived lying unconscious. He was brought by train from Liverpool, and under to hospital, but unfortunately died heavy police escort, boarded the SS the following morning. He had been Liverpool and began unloading the employed casually in Pollexfen’s ship. An angry crowd, which included Mills and had joined the strike. women and children, armed with An inquest on Patrick Dunbar was sticks and other weapons, barged held later, and a witness gave evidence their way on board and attacked the that he and Dunbar had been standing non-union men, resulting in several at a shed gate when the police baton- Josslyn Gore Booth serious injuries. charged. Both men went into the

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the Union organiser, PT Daly, who workers brought in to unload cargo appealed for calm during the next at the docks.22 The RIC Co Sligo twelve hours, as negotiations were inspector reported at the start of April under way. Daly declared that ‘if the that ‘the local press of all shades of strike is not settled, I won’t stand politics is against the strike’.23 This between you and what you consider to was not entirely true. While the Sligo be your rights.’ Times criticised the strikers claiming Later, eighty extra police arrived by that ‘women with hatchets’ roamed train from Dublin, which brought the the streets, and Smylie deplored their total force in Sligo to 160, and barriers language as the ‘filthy of the filthy’24 were posted to prevent strikers gaining and the Sligo Independent condemned access to the quays. A large crowd the violence,25 the Sligo Champion armed with sticks paraded through supported the strikers’ demand that the streets heading towards the docks employers not employ non-union where police blocked their way. When men26, though it also denounced the they came under attack, the police violence. retaliated with a baton charge during The did not Col. Wood-Martin which ‘a fearful melee’ took place, become directly involved in the strike, and many dockers were ‘severely although Dr Coyne, the Bishop of shed for shelter. The witness reported handled’. A crowd was baton-charged Elphin who had replaced Dr Clancy that ‘I saw a number of men hiding at Knox Street and cheering strikers in early 1913, stood at the pulpit behind bags in the shed and I said occupied the Harmony Hill-Knox during mass and warned of the serious to Dunbar: “We’re in a trap”’. The Street junction late into the night, but repercussions for Sligo if the Trade witness mentioned that ‘there was a there were no incidents. Unions took control of the workers, rush made by a number of these men.’ In late March, a conference was held saying: ‘The grass will grown green During cross-examination, he said in the Steam Navigation Company’s on the Docks, if the union is in control Dunbar got ‘a clout’ on the head with offices between representatives of the in Sligo.’ Younger priests may have the stave of a paraffin oil barrel, and strikers and of the firms involved in sympathised more closely with the two revolver shots were fired inside the dispute, but negotiations broke strikers, and Fr Michael O’Flanagan, the shed, striking the gate over his down. The Mayor, Ald O’Donnell, the North Sligo rebel priest, supported head. John Garvey, son of a stevedore, invited the merchants and traders to a the dockers and encouraged them to was later charged with the murder but conference in the town hall. The Sligo fight for their rights. Later the Sligo he was acquitted on the grounds that Times reported that the authorities Administrator, Rev Doorly, was he acted in self-defence.21 were very confident of a settlement. involved in trying to bring both sides After being thwarted in their However, the talks came to a last- together for settlement talks. attempt to board the SS Liverpool, minute halt; Daly refused to sign an On the 9th April, the SS Liverpool the crowd had made an effort to stop agreement containing a free-labour arrived with a cargo and 150 labourers non-union men from unloading the clause giving employers the right to supplied by the Shipping Federation. SS Amelands. A strong force of police hire anybody without asking if he was Three crews began unloading the cargo headed them off and formed a cordon a union member. Negotiations broke of the SS Ameland and two started at the deepwater. The strikers used down, with both sides stating that work aboard the SS Sligo. There sticks, stones and other weapons to they were determined to ‘fight to the were no incidents, but a large police break through the cordon but didn’t finish!’ force was present. The employers attack the men on board who were By the 5th April over 350 policemen banded together and set up as the armed ‘with all sorts of weapons’. had been drafted into Sligo to control ‘Importers Association’ and created The strikers returned to the union the strikers and protect non-union a banner with the words ‘free labour’ offices at Lynn’s Place and marched on it. Around Sligo the strikers placed through the town. They tried pickets on shops providing supplies unsuccessfully to get into the Steam to the non-union workforce, and the Navigation Company’s office in supplies were brought under heavy Wine Street. They smashed windows police protection to the quays. A large at Pollexfen’s office before the crowd of women and children paraded crowd marched to High Street and through the town in support of the demonstrated outside the house of a strikers. Also, in a sympathy strike the non-union worker. They later returned Connacht Manufacturing Company in to the quays and were addressed by Mounted police the Market Yard, owned by Josslyn

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Gore-Booth and employing eighty Sources 1914. women, closed in protest at being Sligo Times 9. Ibid., 16 Dec. 1939. dragged into the dispute in which it Sligo Independent 10. John C. McTernan, Worthies of was not involved. Sligo Champion Sligo (Sligo, 1994), p. 383. The strike dragged on until early Roscommon Herald 11. Michael Wheatley, Nationalism May when talks chaired by TA Michael Wheatley, Nationalism and and the Irish Party (Oxford, 2006), p. Cooper, Sir Josslyn Gore-Booth’s the Irish Party (Oxford, 2006) 139. Sligo Champion Sesquicentenary 12. Ibid., p. 140. Supplement 1836-1986 (Sligo, 1986) 13. S.I., 15 June 1912. John , Labour in the west 14. Michael Wheatley, Nationalism of Ireland (Belfast, 1995) and the Irish Party (Oxford, 2006), p. Padraig Deignan, The Protestant 153. community in Sligo, 1914-49 (Dublin, 15. Ibid., p. 154. 2010) 16. Sligo Champion [S.C.], 30 Mar. John C McTernan, Worthies of Sligo 1912. (Sligo, 1994) 17. Ibid., 22 July 1922. Image of Sligo Harbour from the John C McTernan, A Sligo miscellany 18. S.I., 14 . 1912. Victoria Line (Dublin, 2000) 19. Sligo Champion sesquicentenary supplement, 1836-1986 (Sligo, 1986), agent, who along with John Jinks 1. List of I.T.G.W.U. branches, 1909- p. 41. had been seeking a solution to the 1922 (N.L.I., I.T.G.W.U. Papers, MS 20. S.C., 29 March 1913. strike after the close of the Connacht 7782-7287). 21. Ibid., 12 July 1913. Manufacturing Company, were 2. S.I., 12 April 1890. 22. Sligo County Inspector R.I.C. successful in bringing the strike to 3. S.C., 14 Feb. 1891. Monthly Report [S.C.I. R.I.C. a conclusion.27 Another important 4. John Cunningham, Labour in the M.R.], 1 Apr. 1913 (T.N.A., CO/904: reason for bringing the employers to west of Ireland (Belfast, 1995), p. 67. microfilm, N.L.I., POS 8535). the negotiating table was the mounting 5. Sligo Times [S.T.], 30 Sept. 1911. 23. Ibid. cost on the ratepayers of maintaining 6. Roscommon Herald [R.H.], 28 Oct. 24. S.T., 29 Mar. 1913. a large police force on the streets of 1911. 25. S.I., 29 Mar. 1913. the town. The terms of the settlement 7. S.T., 30 Sept. 1911. 26. S.C., 29 Mar. 1913; 12 Apr. 1913. stated that the non-union men were 8. Sligo Independent [S.I.], 21 Feb. 27. Ibid., 10 May 1913 to be allowed to work without interruption for three months after Table 1: Members of Sligo Corporation January 1913 which an arbitration conference would Title Name Occupation Political affiliation be held consisting of three shipping Mayor and Daniel O’Donnell Hotel owner UIL/AOH Alderman employers and three Transport Union Alderman John Connolly Merchant UIL men, with an independent chairman, Alderman Thomas Flanagan Merchant UIL to further consider the case of the Alderman Edward Foley Merchant UIL/AOH union workers. Alderman J.P. Higgins Merchant UIL Alderman John Jinks Auctioneer UIL/AOH The union representatives conceded Councillor John Lynch Stevedore Labour/ ITGWU the right of free labour in the mills Councillor Thomas Scanlon Tailor cutter UIL and stores, and the various shops and Councillor Dudley M. Hanley Merchant UIL warehouses of the town. The workers Councillor Edward Kelly Merchant UIL received a pay increase and blacklegs Councillor John P. Foley Merchant UIL Councillor Patrick N. White Chemist UIL/AOH were forced to join the union and were Councillor Robert Smylie Journalist Unionist/Conservative forced to pay a fine. The ITGWU Councillor William Gibbons Plasterer Labour/I.T.G.W.U position had been strengthened. On Councillor Michael McDonagh Shopkeeper Labour/ ITGWU 6 May, 56 days into the strike, at the Councillor John Hughes Merchant UIL Councillor Thomas Hughes Monumental Labour/ ITGWU town hall the dock workers heard contractor of their victory and celebrated into Councillor Edward Harte Carpenter Labour/ ITGWU the night. Normal work resumed Councillor Peter Keely Clerk Labour/I.T.G.W.U the next day but many were to face Councillor Peter Heraghty Trader Labour/ ITGWU prosecutions, hefty fines, and jail Councillor James Gray Dealer UIL Councillor Henry Monson Furniture retailer Labour/ ITGWU/AOH sentences for their efforts on behalf of Councillor Henry Depew Carpenter Labour/ ITGWU/AOH labour rights. Councillor Thomas Kivlehin Journalist UIL Source: Sligo Champion, 25 Jan. 1913.

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1 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 Cillin Monastic Site John Higgins

This is a very historical parish, being fence for protection, and the church Abbey Lands would be seized by the birthplace of Ireland’s first Árd itself was built of stone. The monks the supporters of the disappointed Rí, Cormac Mác Art, and the setting who lived there had their own cells candidate. Therefore the wealthy for the epic tales of the Fianna around the church. They were largely had left the country related in legend and story. As we self-sufficient, living by the labour without even the bones of a clerical know from archaeological research of their own hands. Sheep pigs and organisation based on a secular people have lived here for thousands cattle provided foodstuffs, clothing, priesthood. of years, in the forts and raths that footwear, tallow for candles, and Tadgh McDonagh was steward of are so numerous all over the area. vellum for writing. Wheat, flax, oats, these Abbey Lands here and he and They worshipped old gods and built barley, vegetables and herbs were his son built a residence, a church dolmens and cairns to mark the burial grown. Bee-keeping provided honey and guardhouse that became known places of their dead. Carrowkeel is and oxen and horses were used on the as Tampall a Mhanaigh Templevanny only over the hill from Cillin, where farm. (Church of the Monks). They were cremations and inhumations took These monks looked after the not welcome here and the local people place. The advent of Christianity spiritual needs of the local people. The resented the heavier dues and task with the coming of St Patrick had a was the head of the monastery, work which Tadgh and Boyle Abbey profound influence on society. He and the almoner dispensed alms to demanded. Because of his flowing did not change the old pagan ways of the poor. The daily life of the monks red hair the locals called him Manach worship but gave them a new Christian centred around the ‘Book of Hours’ Rua, and he became supreme arbiter in meaning. Soon monasteries spread all which was the main prayer book. It all matters lay and spiritual. His word over the country; these were centres was divided into eight sections, or was law, and for the slightest offence of religion and education and catered ‘hours’, that were meant to be read at one could be imprisoned in his prison for the spiritual needs of the people. specific times of the day. Each section house at Templevanny or hanged There were two main monastic sites in contained hymns, psalms and other at Cnocan na Cruaiche (Hill of the this parish at the time: Drumrath and readings to help the monks secure Gallows) Knocknacroy in Keash. He Toomour. Greenan was a later offshoot salvation. Each day was divided into is buried in Templevanny Churchyard of some type, perhaps associated with eight sections or sacred offices during under the long stone. Toomour. which time the recitation of the Divine In 1586 these lands were granted Templevanny and Cillin are of Office took place. The monks fasted to Patrick Cusack and lay a much later date, being granges daily until evening, and their day was ceased to be appointed. The worldly or outlying farms belonging to the spent almost in complete silence with minded were weeded out of the ranks Cistercian monks in Boyle Abbey, a great deal of solitude. They saw their of the priesthood, the monasteries and which was founded in 1161. Cillin is life as a journey to God and they fixed their lands were confiscated during situated in the old parish of Toomour, their eyes on the destination rather than the reign of the Tudors, and Cillin and a bullan stone and some metal the passing pleasures of this world. like other monastic sites passed into slag found here helps to find a date However, many of the monks failed oblivion. These venerable ruins are for its foundation. The name Cillin to live up to this austere discipline relics and memorials of our past and suggests that there was a graveyard and opted out. The rule of life for the out of this hallowed place of prayer, here where children who died without was very strict and the hymns and the celebration of the baptism were buried. On the 1838 main reason they had been invited Eucharist was heard and celebrated Ordnance Survey map a mill with a here was to reform the Church, which hundreds of years ago. kiln and fishery is marked to the west both morally and organizationally of the church. The church and cells had fallen out of line with the rest of This article is from a talk given by for the monks were established here Europe. There was spiritual and moral John Higgins, retired Principal of to enable the monks who worked the laxity, the sacraments were neglected Culfadda National School, at Cillin lands - then known as Abbey Lands - and corruption was rife, so it was in June 2012 as Mass was celebrated to celebrate the divine service. obvious that reform was necessary as in preparation for the Eucharist The Cistercians were granted 50,000 the era of Ireland’s Golden age had Congress. acres of land west of the Shannon long ended. At the in and there is a reference to ‘Cluain 1152 the present Diocesan boundaries Sources Cath’ [Battlefield] as being part of were agreed on. The lay lords of High Hollow , John Garvin this grant of land. These lands were the time made most of the clerical History of Sligo, O’ Rourke granted to the Cistercians to repay appointments. They administered the Book of Ballymote, Mc Donagh them for ministering to the spiritual Abbey Lands mainly for their own The Heart of Ireland, Fr Sharkey needs of the people. This site was benefit and often without regard to the History of Achonry, Fr Liam Swords probably circular in shape. It would interests of religion. If an unpopular have been surrounded by a large Abbot was chosen by the Pope, the 57 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 Down on the Farm in the 20th Century Kathleen Fairbanks

All is safely gathered in. The Higgins children, Carraroe

Milking time, Kathleen Harte

In the hayfield, the Fairbanks Children.

Feeding time, Ms O’Higgins,

Cornfield, the Lillie Farm Corrick,

58 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014

In the cornfield, the family and George Ingram, a visitor

Feeding the Skim milk to calves. Kathleen Fairbanks.

Flock of turkeys at the Lillie Homestead, Ballinafad

Cornfield, the Lillie Farm Corrick, Ballinafad Quack quack! The little ducklings 59 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 A Manly Sport! Padraic Feehily

In the latter days of the nineteenth in several areas of the colonies. It century, any young man about the was part of the curriculum at the town of Sligo could find amusement Reverend James Maury’s Academy in the sporting events taking place in Fredericksburg, Virginia. This was weekly at the various venues. the academy that helped prepare the Athletics, rowing and handball were first constitutional President of the very popular, with soccer and Gaelic United States for his life in the public football the emerging games. The eye. George Washington at the age of games were regulated to ensure fair- eighteen years held a collar-and-elbow play and to channel the energies of the championship that was at least county young athletes in a regulated way. wide if not possible colony wide. In earlier days young people would To mark the opening of the Hogan gather at places like Tonaphubble as well. Footwear was banned from Stand on Sunday 7 June 1959, the (Field of the Congregation) near being worn in competition early GAA published an interesting little Cairns Hill which may have got its on, due to the kicking and tripping booklet. It gives a short account of the name from the previous custom of techniques employed. The wrestlers history and rules and early regulations, people gathering in the area after who practiced this style referred of the Association. Teams originally attending mass on Sundays to amuse to themselves as ‘scufflers’. An consisted of twenty-one players and themselves in ‘manly’ pursuits like impromptu scuffling match was individual wrestling was permitted throwing the stone and wrestling. known as a ‘scuffling bee’. during games. This is a throwback to The beginning stance is the foundation an era when a test of strength was what Irish Styles of the style as well as the origin of the marked a man out from his fellows. The origins of Irish collar-and-elbow name. The wrestlers face each other, Padraic Feehily’s book Around the wrestling are not known. According to grabbing the elbow with the right hand Borough, stories and photographs of historian Dr Edward MacLysaght, it and the collar area with the left hand. Old Sligo is available at book stores was an organised sport as early as the This very stance forced the scufflers now or direct from the author at 1600s in which the more prominent of to use technique rather than a bull rush Rathlee, County Sligo. the wrestlers were able to earn a living. on their opponent. The beginning of Dr Douglas Hyde tells of a wrestling the match was often a test of strategy bout that took place in Connacht in and balance. The scufflers would try his Amhrain Cuige Connacht (Gaelic to circle each other clockwise while History of the province of Connacht). a series of unbalanced manoeuvres, A young wrestler, Thomas Costello, including kicking and tripping, would known as Laidir (The Strong), took up be played out by both combatants. the challenge issued by the champion This stage of the match could last of the town of Sligo. This man had a very long time; indeed, there are been living at the expense of the town, accounts where the standing position as was the custom of the day, and had of the match had lasted over an hour. killed several men in earlier bouts. Inevitably a take-down would occur. He was greatly feared and not overly A ‘flying mace’ or a ‘snap mace’ was loved by the people of Sligo. Odds a common takedown. A ‘mare’ was a were ten to one that the challenger throw in which the feet of the thrown would fail. opponent actually were higher than The two men met on the public green his head. Ground wrestling began John McMahon is acknowledged in front of the mass of townspeople. after one or both of the scufflers hit as one of the greatest exponents of Laidir latched onto his opponent and the ground. ‘Half-nelsons’ and various collar-and-elbow style wrestling this hurled him to the ground, breaking ‘grapevines’ and other ground control world has ever seen. This archaic form his neck. The astonished crowd, silent techniques were then employed. A of wrestling was brought to North with awe for a moment, cheered their match was considered won when all America by Irish immigrants and for a new champion. Of course, the new four points of the body were pinned to time was the popular style used by the champion had nothing to fear from the the ground for the count of five: both early professional wrestlers. law as this was a legal contest with an shoulders and both points of the hips; Collar-and-elbow is a standing style unfortunate ending. apparently not easily accomplished of wrestling that involves grasping It was the smaller man who usually against a well-versed opponent. the other person’s collar-and-elbow excelled in this style, where speed and In the later nineteenth century the and through various hip locks, cross technique were valued over strength requirement to win was lessened to a buttocks, grapevines and trips, and size. It was often practiced three-point touch. attempting to toss one another to the shirtless, so the term ‘collar’ only ground. A fall was called when one refers to the areas grabbed in the Although collar-and-elbow was seen man touched the ground with either contest. Sometimes tight jackets with as a common man’s sport in Ireland, it two hips and one shoulder or both double sewn seams were worn was considered a gentlemen’s pastime shoulders and one hip. 60 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 Opening night of the Art Deco Adapted from remarks by John Perry TD

Tonight’s opening is very much a case of back to the future – from February 26, 1948, to tonight, 64 years later; from a glorious past to a very bright future. This magnificent facility will once again echo the sounds of the biggest and brightest talents, from cinema, theatre and music. The magnificence of this building which has taken shape over the last year and a half or so, is indeed evident for all to see here tonight, and has been completed fully in keeping with its original and unique Art Deco styling – a feature to which the re-naming The opening night of the Art Deco pays tribute. We have had the original seating refurbished and have kept the elegance, glamour, functionality and 500 and 550 people.’ unique charm of this beautiful building modernity. Architectural examples Indeed, if in 1948, the Abbey was fully intact. survive in many different locations the most state of the art facility of its Art deco is an artistic and design style worldwide, and in New York City, the kind, then the same can certainly be that began in Paris in the 1920s and Empire State Building, the Chrysler said today of the Art Deco. Our cinema flourished internationally throughout Building, and Rockefeller Center are facility here will feature the latest 3D the 1930s and into the World War II era. among the largest and best-known Digital Projection Technology, as well Art Deco was an ornamental style, and examples of the style. as the most up to date digital sound its lavishness is attributed to reaction to The old Abbey theatre on this site equipment. It will have the capability the forced austerity imposed by World was originally opened in 1948, to to stream in live shows from Broadway War I. much excitement and fanfare, as New York and the West End, London. It is therefore a fitting backdrop documented by the feature in the Sligo The official opening of the Abbey that tonight in Ballymote we have our Champion of the time. It said: ‘Work Cinema took place on Thursday the 26th own ‘reaction’ in times of austerity, is rapidly nearing completion on the of February 1948, and was performed by by bringing back the Art Deco style! Abbey, Ballymote’s new bijou cinema. the Ballymote Parish Priest of the day, This is a very positive message of Constructed on ambitions lines, the the Very Reverend Canon Roughneen. confidence, that things can be achieved cinema can boast many features found A look at the advertisement placed with determination even in challenging in the bigger and better-known city in the Sligo Champion dated the 21st times. picture houses. The Cinema will have February 1948 shows that the opening At its best, art deco represented seating accommodation for between film screened in the cinema was The Homestretch, starring the renowned Irish actress Maureen O’Hara. On the nights to follow the cinema screened The Wizard of Oz starring Judy Garland, The Stranger starring Orson Welles and Moss Rose starring Ethel Barrymore. The admission prices were advertised at One and Nine pence, One and Four pence, and Ten Pence. As well as screening some of the biggest stars of the movies of the day, the Abbey also played host to some of the best-known luminaries to have treaded the boards. Greats who played at the Abbey included the Irish Players A vintage car at the opening night

61 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 in 1951, who presented the repertoire of Abbey Theatre and West End Plays, like The Rising of the Moon and Peg O’ My Heart by playwright T Hartley Manon, Shadow and Substance by Paul Vincent Carroll, and Night Must Fall by Emlyn Williams. Some other stars of from the world of entertainment who performed at The Abbey were the great comedians Maureen Potter, Hal Roach, the wonderful Jimmy O’Dea and renowned Hypnotist, Paul Golden. Enormous credit must go to the The cinema before reconstruction began original founders and directors of the Abbey, and those who in the mid 1940s in the most fitting way possible, and Tonight is the culmination of years had the vision, determination, and the tonight, with the official opening of the of hard work, vision, and foresight. It ambition to embark on a project like Art Deco, I believe we have indeed paid is a prime illustration of the potential this and establish the Ballymote Cinema homage to these visionaries. We are very and benefits of Social Enterprise within Company Ltd. People like Linda Quinn fortunate that the original projector of the community and of what can be Begley and Patrick F Begley who the Abbey Cinema, which was donated achieved by communities working for were among the original founders and to Riverstown Folk Park by Bartley themselves. The Art Deco is a cinema, directors of the Abbey Cinema. Also, Cryan, is being returned to the Art Deco theatre and music venue of national people like Bartley Cryan his wife here by John Taylor, Riverstown, where and international standard. It is a venue Kathleen and their family, as well as it will go on permanent exhibition. and facility of which Ballymote and the Denis and Jack Conroy. It will feature a plaque which will surrounding region can justifiably be These outstanding individuals dedicate the display to the memory of proud. deserve to have their legacy preserved Bartley Cryan. The Village Station Kathleen Fitzmaurice For those who have never experienced Where the population is sparse two candles in brass candleholders. attending a ‘village station’, let me townlands are combined to make it a There was one job for a young gasún explain. It refers to having mass more viable event. in the family. He tackled the ass and cart celebrated in a family home in the local Stations are held twice a year, in and off he went to collect the ‘Priest’s townland or village, attended by the spring and autumn. In former years box.’ This box contained vestments and people who live in that particular area. the spring stations began on the day sacred vessels which were reserved It was a widespread event up to recent after Ash Wednesday and followed for use at stations and were stored in times, but sadly the custom is dying out the same yearly routine until every a sturdy wooden box. When the first in many places. townland had its station. The same family hosted the station they collected Perhaps this custom may trace its pattern was followed in autumn. People the box from the presbytery and then origin back to penal times when mass felt privileged to host the mass and it did the rounds from one house was celebrated in remote sheltered great preparations were made, starting to another. It was safely stored and locations far away from prying eyes long beforehand. It was an incentive to eventually found its way back. of the ‘authorities’ or their henchmen, get any renovations done to the house. In the days when there were two when there was a reward for anyone Perhaps the roof needed new thatch, priests in a parish both attended the who betrayed a priest. In more liberal so the thatcher arrived. The place was station. One took his place in the times mass was offered in the homes whitewashed inside and out, windows parlour and heard confessions and the of ordinary people, especially in the cleaned and painted. The flagged floor other was the celebrant of the mass. country. in the kitchen was scrubbed till it shone. At the station, holy water is blessed Every Parish is divided into The most important job was arranging and sprinkled on the congregation and townlands, and in these townlands a an altar on the kitchen table, complete around the house. A contribution from home is selected as host for the station. with starched cloth, crucifix and blessed each household is collected at the end

62 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 of the mass. This money was known wonderful to have such a worthwhile There is still great preparation – a as ‘Oats Money’, reminiscent of the event take place twice a year. Not every house looks its best at station time and time when the priest did his rounds on family is happy to be the host and it is there is always a hearty meal. There is horseback or in a horse-drawn vehicle. largely up to oneself to be part of the a wonderful sense of awe at a station Mass was early in the morning and a custom. The response is quite good, mass, a miracle happening in your own meal followed. The priests and the older thank God, and is deeply appreciated home! It is a time when family and people ate in the parlour and the meal by those who attend and by your parish neighbours meet in a homely, relaxed wasn’t over-elaborate – boiled eggs and priest. atmosphere, when worries and tensions toast often featured on the menu. The pattern does not follow a strict are forgotten and our minds are focused Having the station was a landmark routine – the P.P. is happy to facilitate on the mass and blessings it brings for the family. I am happy to say we still families by having evening or weekend with it. Long may this lovely custom have stations in my own parish and it is stations at a time that suits the family. continue!

World War I casualties from the Barony of Corran Extracted from Sligo Men in the Great War – 1914-1918 with the kind permission of the author, James McGuinn, by Neal Farry James McGuinn’s excellent book Sligo who died in Egypt; Pte Richard Cawley, Men in the Great War 1914-1918 deals in Bunninadden, Connaught Rangers great detail with the heroic contribution who died in Mesopotamia; Pte James of hundreds of Sligo soldiers to the war Coleman, Bunninadden, Royal Lancs. effort and the eventual victory of the Regiment, who died in Mesopotamia Allies. The author has listed the names and Pte Joseph O’Dowd, Bunninadden, of 34 soldiers with Ballymote addresses Connaught Rangers, who died in who lost their lives in the conflict. France/Flanders are also recorded as He also lists four casualties with casualties. Keash addresses and four casualties The author provides a list of 420 with Bunninadden addresses. Their James McGuinn images (courtesy dead from every part of Co Sligo and regiments and the theatres of war where of him) suggests that this is not a complete list. they were killed are also recorded. Pte John Welsh, Pte John Downey and He believes that approximately 500 The names of the fallen Ballymote Pte Martin Meehan, all of the Royal Sligo soldiers lost their lives in the soldiers are as follows: Pte John Dublin Fusiliers who died in France/ conflict. Chambers, Pte Michael McGuinn, Pte Flanders; Pte Mark Cawley of the A brief biography is also given of Terence McGuire, Sgt John Muldoon, Argyll Highlanders, Pte Michael Joseph Fr Michael (Doc) Henry, a brother of L Cpl Thomas Mulligan, Pte Michael Cawley of the Machine Gun Corps, Batt Henry NT Emlaghnaughton, who Quigley, Pte Michael Regan, Pte James Pte Peter Flanagan of the RASC: Pte served as a chaplain in the war, and Reynolds and Pte Michael Reynolds, Michael Keene of the Inniskilling of Captain William Knox, Ballymote all members of the Connaught Rangers Fusiliers and Cpl John McNicholas of and the Connaught Rangers. Cpt Knox who died in France/Flanders, except the Royal Engineers, who all died in was awarded the Military Cross for Michael Reynolds, who fell in battle France/Flanders; Pte Patrick Connolly conspicuous gallantry in action. Both in Mesopotamia; Pte John Duffy (RIF) of the Royal Fusiliers, who died of men survived the war. The letters from died in France/Flanders; Rifleman wounds in Sligo Infirmary; Pte Charles soldiers in the trenches that Mr McGuinn John Ferguson, Pte Patrick Mulligan, Kilpatrick of the Seaforth Highlanders, presents in this book are poignant Pte Thomas Flanagan, Cpl Michael who died in the Persian Gulf; Pte accounts of courage, endurance and Gilmartin and Pte Arthur V Gorman, all Michael J Judge of the Norfolk humanity. members of the Royal Irish Regiment Regiment, who died in Egypt and Pte J James McGuinn is a native of Cashel, and they died in the French/Flanders Feeney who died in Flanders. Tubbercurry, and was principal of St battles; Pte Michael Clarke of the Pte James Brehony, Keash, Royal Mogue’s College, Bawnboy, Co Cavan Royal Irish Regiment died at Gallipoli Scottish Fusiliers who died in France/ until his retirement. Some copies of Mr in Turkey; Pte Timothy Forbes, Pte Flanders; Peter Casey, Keash, who died McGuinn’s fascinating book, which was Thomas Gallagher, Pte Michael in France/Flanders; William Phibbs published in 1994 by the Naughan Press, Healy, Pte Michael J Healy, Pte James Griffith, Knockbrack; Pte John Kelly, Belturbet, Co Cavan, are available in McLoughlin and Pte Edward Sharkey, Keash, Royal Irish Regiment who died libraries throughout the county. all members of the Irish Guards who in Mesopotamia; Pte John Boland, died in the French/Flanders battles; Bunninadden, First Leinster Regiment

63 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 Inquisition in Ballymote 1593 and 1617 Jim Higgins

The mere mention of the word There were no texts or ‘aide memoires’ ‘inquisition’ is likely to summon in those days! They shut themselves bloodcurdling thoughts of endless up in a darkened space for hours on interrogation, extreme humiliation end to avoid distractions while they and physical punishment, perhaps struggled to attain the perfection they leading ultimately to burning at sought. When reasonably satisfied the stake for the poor unfortunate with their efforts an assembly of their concerned. Although the reason for peers would gather to hear the latest convening the Ballymote inquisitions Tadhg Dall Ó h-Uiginn masterpiece and amendments or is equally horrific, the actual process is corrections would be made. completely unrelated to the generally blind or had lost the sight of one eye, The rí or chieftain was obliged accepted connotations of that word. the mere suggestion is nevertheless to reward the file by providing him Chancery Inquisitions were chilling. Even at a distance of over 400 with all his earthly needs, including established in medieval times to record years this brutal and gruesome event land, horses, cattle and servants. the death of wealthy landowners and must send a shiver down the spine of Consequently they became very to determine the amounts of taxes the reader. We recoil in abhorrence at wealthy and so influential that by the and levies payable to the king. The the unspeakable, premeditated cruelty 6th century, the chieftains wanted to inquisition was composed of a jury perpetrated on a defenceless blind curb their powers. At the Convention appointed from amongst other land or file together with his wife and one of of Drum Ceat (near Limavady in property owners in the area. The jury his children. To come to any rational Derry) in 575AD Colmcille was might decide to administer the estate interpretation as to what caused recalled from exile in Iona, to decide of the deceased on behalf of surviving such an atrocity, one must attempt their fate. The Saint ruled in favour of heirs who had not reached the age to understand the role of the ‘filí’ in the filí, and they flourished for another of 21, and to reconvene to decide ancient Irish culture. thousand years. ownership at a later date. Before the arrival of Christianity Handwritten books and manuscripts Tadhg Dall Ó h-Uiginn was a ‘file’ in the 5th century the filí were our were introduced following the coming (or poet) who owned substantial primary source for recording stories of Christianity, and gradually the oral tracts of land near Banada Abbey, of significant happenings and ‘battles tradition of the filí was recorded for , in South Sligo. In the long ago’, if not indeed the only posterity. Sadly however many of year 1591 at the age of 41, he was source. They did this not by the these handwritten accounts were lost murdered in his home, by having his written word but by an oral tradition of or destroyed, but we are fortunate that tongue cut out. Two years later in 1593 composing dánta (poems), songs and many of Tadhg Dall’s compositions at Ballymote Inquisition his death storytelling. They were the accepted survive. It is generally accepted by was recorded, and again in 1617, five authority on all matters cultural, scholars of the period that his work members of the O’Hara clan were historical, economic and judicial, may have been equalled by some of ‘attainted’ with the murder of Tadhg among many others. They were an his contemporaries such as Ó Dálaigh Dall together with his wife and one of elite and privileged group, whose and Mac Grádha, but he has never his children. The murder was carried position in the society of the day been surpassed. out in revenge for an aoir (or satire) ranked second only to that of the rí, or Tadhg Dall’s poetic ancestry may which Tadhg had penned, and which king. The position of file was passed be traced back to the 13th century, was less than flattering to the O’Hara from father to son and it required 14 although some scholars have suggested clan who had previously been one years concentrated study to qualify for that his lineage may have begun with of his many patrons. Tadhg Óg, who the title. Strict rules of composition Neil Naoi nGiallach or ‘Niall of The was 9 years old when his father was applied, requiring the counting of Nine Hostages’ who is credited with murdered, inherited his estate. syllables, alliteration and rhyming. bringing Saint Patrick to Ireland as a Whether the description of the The reason for this discipline was of sixteen year old slave. There are other manner of his killing is allegorical course to ensure ease of memorisation suggestions that the surname ‘Uiginn’ or not, whether he was completely as well as making for easy listening. comes from the Viking invasions of 64 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014

795 onwards. Whatever his origins, the patronage of O’Connor of Sligo miserable fellow, whose marrow had there is no denying his outstanding and O’Hara of the Barony of Leyney. gone from him.’ The ‘fifth rogue had a achievements as a file par excellence, Whenever a dispute arose between short smock not worth a groat’ [a four and he remained a topical reference these powerful families Tadhg Dall penny coin in use in the 16th Century] for over one hundred years after his had to walk a very fine line in order to and ‘his mantle was no better.’ While death. avoid causing offence either expressed we must readily agree that these lines The 16th Century was a very or implied. O’Donnell claimed over- are most uncomplimentary, it remains turbulent period in our history, and lordship of Sligo, and on one occasion stubbornly difficult to understand the traditional culture of the day was when Tadhg Dall extolled his virtues, how murder would be seen as an under severe threat. For over 200 years O’Connor felt grievously rebuffed. appropriate punishment. Perhaps there all efforts to prevent the integration of The file was forced to leave his home is more to this story than has yet been the Norman invaders and the native and lie low for a year or so, until revealed. Irish had failed. Henry VIII was tempers cooled and egos healed. Some The fall from grace of a once most determined to succeed where others of his patrons were tempted to accept prosperous Clann Uí Eaghra must had not. ‘Divide and conquer’ was ‘surrender and re-grant’, while others have been a bitter pill to swallow his first priority. The Geraldines who violently opposed it. Uncertainty and and perhaps the publicising of their were the most powerful Norman Irish suspicion abounded. Meanwhile the difficulties damaged their chances chieftains of the day were ruthlessly authorities of the crown looked upon either to avail of the option of crushed. He declared himself head of all filí as troublemakers and rabble- surrender and re-grant or to convince the church in 1534 and King of Ireland rousers. A precarious situation indeed the rebellious Earls of Ulster to accept in 1541. He closed the monasteries for someone whose duty it was to them as allies. Further scrutiny is and confiscated their land. Many interpret the spirit of the age! called for and one may only hope that Irish chieftains were frightened into Such was the prevailing attitudes some future Sligo scholar may take up ‘surrendering’ their lands held under when five members of the O’Hara the challenge. the ancient Brehon law, while the King family visited Tadhg Dall, sometime returned it to them or ‘re-granted’ their to 1591. It seems that the brothers Tadhg Dall Ó h-Uiginn was the land under English law. From now overstayed their welcome and the file last of the great Gaelic Filí and with on property no longer belonged to wrote the fatal aoir which was to lead the defeat of Ó Neill and Ó Donnell the clan but to the monarch. Queen to his awful slaughter. It consists of at the Battle of Kinsale in 1601, and Mary continued her father’s policy, twelve verses with four lines in each the in 1607, the but where ‘surrender and re-grant’ verse making a total of 48 lines. In the 1,500-year-old Bardic tradition finally failed, she decided on Plantation. poem itself the author says that he had came to an end. The great poet’s work In 1556 lands of Irish chieftains in six uninvited and un-named guests and will ensure he is never forgotten and it Laois and Offaly were confiscated and he satirised each one in turn. Why only is fitting and appropriate that in recent English farmers were invited to settle five were accused of his subsequent years a beautifully inscribed plaque there. Mary’s sister, Queen Elizabeth murder is not clear. A full appreciation has been unveiled in his memory in 1, concentrated on spreading the of the artistry of the author is only the cemetery at Banada Abbey. Reformation and stamping out Popery. available to those who are fluent in the Throughout history, sages tell us She also attempted the Plantation of Gaeilge of that era, but a flavour of his that birth and death are essential Munster in 1585. intentions may be gleaned from the components in the renewal of the earth Opposition to these drastic following attempts at translation. The and the recreation of this wonderful changes were strongest in Ulster and opening lines go something like this: which we are privileged to particularly from the Earls of Donegal ‘A troop of six that came to my inhabit, however briefly. Perhaps a and Tyrone. Tadhg Dall Ó h-Uiginn house, I shall give a description new golden age of Gaelic literature is had spent some of his earliest years of them; scarce of milk was I next about to dawn. living in Donegal in fosterage with morning, from the thirst of the six the O’Donnell clan, who continued vagabonds.’ We get an image of 16th References as one of his most generous patrons century ‘austerity’ when he reminds Corpus of Electronic Texts funded by throughout his life. He was also file to us of his predicament: ‘I in want, and University College Cork, Department of Fermanagh among others. they in necessity – I am in a strait of History. Translations of Tadhg Living between Tubbercurry and between the two.’ Dall’s work by Eleanor Knott in 1922. , his lands were held under The second visitor is described as ‘a

65 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 Count Charles O’Gara 1699-1777 Maura O’Gara-O’Riordan

Charles O’Gara was among the first II, spent some time there, in the Bar- Berwick and grandson of King James children to be born in St Germain, le-Duc district of Lorraine when II,6 an act of parliament was passed in Paris, in the decade after the defeated forced to leave St Germain under the England in 1726 which gave her the King James II went into exile. During terms of the Peace of Utrecht. When right to return to Ireland and sue for the Jacobite wars, Colonel Oliver he arrived in the duchy in 1713, he her entitlement to rental income from O’Gara, his father, had been colonel was greeted by Leopold, duke of her jointure lands. of a regiment of infantry at the battle Lorraine and by Owen O’Rourke of Mary O’Gara, by now a widow, of Aughrim in 1691. With his wife, Connacht, who was later appointed returned to Ireland after an absence Mary Fleming, the daughter of Lord Jacobite diplomatic representative in of thirty-five years to start legal Slane, his was one of the regiments Vienna.4 proceedings against her brother-in- that went to France. Charles was born The first record connecting Charles law from her first marriage, Michael in 1699. The sponsor at his baptism in O’Gara with the duchy of Lorraine Fleming of Stahalmock, Co Meath. l’Eglise Royale was ‘the very noble is dated 1731. In that year, he With the expectation of winning her and powerful Prince, James II, King’, accompanied Francis Stephen, duke case, and recovering the rents due who signed himself, ‘Jacques Roi’.1 of Lorraine, to London. Charles was to her, she signed a deed in 1728 in Several other members of the Stuart at that time engaged in the roles of Dublin, which stipulated that her royal family were to act as sponsors at ‘Gentleman of the Chamber and son, Charles, who had supported her the numerous O’Gara baptisms. Senior Groom to the duke’.5 No financially during the legal process, In contrast to the military careers information on the day-to-day life of was to get the principal share of the followed by his father and three Charles in the household of the duke of arrears: brothers, Charles was employed in the Lorraine has come to light, in contrast … pay unto her beloved son Charles household of the dukes of Lorraine to the historical facts available for his O’Gara out of ye sd Arrears ye sum for all of his working life. While still three military brothers, John, Oliver of one thousand six hundred pounds a small child, Count Francis Taaffe and Joseph, who enrolled as officers in Discharge & Satisfaction for the is said to have recommended him in the Irish brigades in France. The money by him Advanced for sd Mary for future service to Leopold Joseph, regiments of Irlanda and Hibernia in obtaining sd Act of Parliamt.7 The duke of Lorraine. Taaffe was a cousin in which they served were later deed was between the Honble Mary of the O’Garas and had himself served transferred to Spain, and all three O’Gara of ye City of Dublin widw. of in the regiment of the duke and of his remained with the regiments in Spain, the one part & Sr. George Barnewall father.2 where records exist for the O’Gara of the City of Dublin Bart. & John The War of the Spanish Succession officers from 1715 to 1768. Brown of ye sd City Esqr. (1701-14), followed by the Peace However, some information Charles continued to support his of Utrecht, saw the cessation of on Charles can be gleaned from mother’s attempts to claim what was hostilities between France, Great other O’Gara family sources. By due to her, but a final agreement was Britain and other European countries. 1720, living conditions for military not reached until 1736 when Michael However, peace brought hardship for personnel had greatly deteriorated in Fleming was ordered to sell or rent the Irish Jacobite soldiers and their Saint-Germain. Although over thirty land within five years between 1 May families at Saint-Germain. Given the years had passed since the death of 1736 and 1 May 1741 to pay the debts difficult financial circumstances, it is her first husband, Richard Fleming, he owed to Mary or her assignees. In possible that Colonel Oliver O’Gara Mary O’Gara decided to petition December 1728 it had been calculated made arrangements at this time for his for arrears of rental income that had that Charles was owed the sum of son Charles to travel the 200 miles to been due to her as his widow. Richard one thousand six hundred pounds the palace of the Duke at Lunéville to Fleming had died at the siege of Derry but by 1736 his expenses had risen take up employment in the Lorraine in 1689. Following the Jacobite war, substantially: household.3 both Mary and her second husband, Charles O’Gara, Esquire, her Son, The small duchy of Lorraine in Oliver O’Gara, had been outlawed. who hath been at the Expence of north-east France shares its border with After several appeals in the 1720s, maintaining the said Mary procuring present-day Belgium, Luxembourg including a petition from the office of the said recited Act, and prosecuting and Germany. James III, son of James the duke of Liria, son of the duke of the said several Suites, in the Sum of

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Four thousand Pounds.8 status of his brother, Charles: empress, Marie Theresa. As a token Mary O’Gara spent her final years Don Carlos O Gara who is currently of esteem, Count d’Argenteau, one in Ireland and died in Dublin in the Count of the Holy Empire, a member of his executors, was left a diamond winter of 1741/2. of the Council of His Imperial Majesty embedded in gold ‘given to me by the Charles remained in mainland and senior major-domo of the house Empress on my last trip to Vienna’, Europe and continued his association of the Most Serene Lady Princess while the Countess d’Argenteau with the dukes of Lorraine. He had first Carlota of Lorena, sister of the received ‘the most beautiful’ of his served under Duke Leopold Joseph, Emperor.9 rings. Another beneficiary received who died in 1729. The duke’s son, Although he was born in France a lacquer chest containing boxes of Francis Stephen, inherited the title and spent all his life in Europe, tea. The Count of Nery was given his and in 1736 married Maria Theresa, Count Charles O’Gara maintained green and gold telescope.12 heiress to Charles VI, the Holy connections with his Irish relatives, Servants were rewarded depending Roman Emperor. Shortly after his and in time they would benefit on their length of service. His two marriage, Francis Stephen exchanged from his substantial will. One of valets were to share his used clothes.13 the duchy of Lorraine for the grand these was the antiquarian, Charles Although Charles had a number duchy of Tuscany, Italy. Charles O’Conor of Belanagare, his second of sisters – one of whom, Marie O’Gara continued in the service of the cousin – Charles O’Gara’s paternal Magdelaine O’Gara, had Queen Mary duke, who was elected Holy Roman grandmother was an O’Conor.10 of Modena as her baptismal sponsor Emperor in 1745. Francis Stephen and That he was well regarded for his in 170114 – none are mentioned in Marie Theresa had sixteen children, generosity to his relatives and friends his will, which suggests that they the youngest daughter of whom was is suggested in correspondence predeceased him. However, he did the ill-fated Marie Antoinette, queen dated 1772. Charles O’Conor refers have a half-sister, Bridget, whose of France, who was executed in 1793. to a request for information he had grandchildren, Randal and Rose, Later in his career, Charles held the received from a Father O’Kelly, a were the main beneficiaries. Bridget position of senior major-domo in the friend of the count. The priest had had married Randal Plunket, baron of household of Princess Charlotte of asked that a response be sent to him Dunsany, in 1711. The current Lord Lorraine, a sister of the duke, Francis through ‘the young Mons. de Plunkett Dunsany is their direct descendant. Stephen, who had settled in Mons, of Dunsany, who will … send it to Randal Plunket and his sister, Rose then part of the Austrian Netherlands. his Excellency, Count O’Gara, his were named as the main beneficiaries It is difficult to ascertain where illustrious uncle your relative and of Count O’Gara, but there were Charles’s principal place of residence my protector’. The ‘young Mons. de conditions attached. In his will of was, or in which year he changed his Plunkett of Dunsany’ was Randal, a 1773, both were to receive 80,000 employment. While in the service grandson of Bridget Fleming, and a French pounds [livres] from his funds of Princess Charlotte, he remained a grandnephew of the count. Fr O’Kelly in Vienna, and both were to share member of the council of the Emperor was described as a companion to equally in his assets deposited in in Vienna. Although his will was Count O’Gara in the count’s will. Paris. The section of the will relating signed in Mons, no properties were Charles O’Gara’s employers both to Randal reads: listed as part of his estate so it is predeceased him. The emperor, I bequeath half of my Royal assets probable that he had quarters in the Francis Stephen, died in 1765, and that I own from the Town Hall in Paris residence of Princess Charlotte. his sister, Princess Charlotte, in to my grandnephew [Randal Plunket], By 1761 Charles had been awarded 1773. Throughout his life, Charles only son of the present Lord Dunsany, the Austrian Order of the Golden had accumulated wealth, status and on condition that this young man Fleece by the Holy Roman Emperor, connections. He had his own staff, embrace the Apostolic and Roman Francis Stephen. His status at this with personal valets and footmen. His Catholic religion.15 time is confirmed from a Spanish will of 1773 and a codicil added in However, if he failed to convert to source. Charles’s youngest and only 1776 revealed that he had substantial Catholicism, his share would go to surviving brother, Joseph, lieutenant bank accounts in Vienna and Paris.11 Rose, but on condition that she marry colonel in the regiment of Irlanda After his death on 15 May 1777, ‘a man of good birth and of the Roman in Spain, was awarded the habit of royal associates, household staff, Catholic religion’. In a codicil to the knight of the Order of Alcantara by friends and family in Europe and will dated 1776, he further stipulated the king of Spain in 1761. Several in Ireland were provided for in his that if Randal and Rose wished to of those who recommended Joseph will. His chain of the Order of the benefit, they would have to live in O’Gara for knighthood referred to the Golden Fleece was returned to the the ‘States of her Royal and Imperial

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Majesty’ in the Austrian Netherlands. conversion of Charles’s legacy of Feargal O’Gara, who was described In the event of neither complying 10,000 French pounds into £5405. by Mícheál Ó Cléirigh in the Annals with the conditions, his executors 13s. 2d. and notified the authorities of the Four Masters as lord of were to apply the count’s assets for in Brussels.22 The legacy arrived at Moygara and . Coolavin the establishment of: a very opportune time for Charles was possessed by the O’Garas until … a boarding school at the Military O’Conor. Around this time his younger the Cromwellian confiscations of the Academy in Venice in favour of the brother, Hugh, had conformed to the 1650s.26 poor children of Irish officers, who by established church in order to claim In his 1773 will made in Mons, their services have been well deserving the O’Conor property at Belanagare. Austrian Netherlands, Charles of the noble House of Austria and, In a letter written in the summer of remembered those who were living failing this, in favour of young men 1777, Charles explained his difficult in poverty through the penal times on and children of Irish origins.16 position: the faraway O’Gara ancestral lands Randal and Rose did comply with the My unhappy brother Hugh has by requesting that any new items of conditions of the will. Both ‘provided run out his whole fortune through clothing in his wardrobe be sold for certification of their Catholicity’ and [corrupt] ness and want of industry. their benefit: Rose married the Baron of Carondelet, He conformed to the religion … whatever is new be sold and the a Catholic. Within a year of the count’s established here and filed a Bill of money be given to the poor in the death, both had settled abroad and had discovery (as a Protestant) against Bishopric [district] of Coolavin in become entitled to their legacies.17 me to wrest from me the poor plank Ireland, where this donation will be Receiving a legacy of 10,000 that brought my father to shore after placed in the hands of the Bishop of the French pounds was a priest named the great wreck of the family fortune Diocese [Achonry] to be distributed MacDermot, who lived in Antwerp.18 in 1688. This affair is not yet come to amongst the poor.27 Fr McDermot had been a friend of trial before our Lord Chancellor and the late Count O’Gara, but they were I must abide by the event. I have no 1. C. E. Lart, Jacobite Extracts, also related. In an attempt to establish crime to answer for but professing the Registers of Saint Germain-en-laye, 2 any entitlement to the O’Gara estate religion of my ancestors…23 vols (London, 1910-12); vol. i, p. 74. that his elderly father might have, Fr Writing to his son, Denis, in June 2. J.C. O’Callaghan, History of McDermot wrote to his cousin, Myles 1778 he spoke of his relief at receiving the Irish Brigades in the Service MacDermot, in Shruffe, Coolavin, the O’Gara legacy: of France, (Dublin, 1869), p. 88; chief of the name, in early July 1777. … As the affair is now so near its Memoire de M. Mac Donagh (1792), Fr MacDermot was seeking crisis, I shall not rest a minute from Halliday Pamphlets, number 619, written proof in order to ‘get more giving it all the attention in my power, Royal Irish Academy Library, for his poor father provided he can and be assured that money shall not be Dublin, fn 1, p. 35. get his relation to O’Gara properly spared to give my cause the strongest 3. A document of 1718 relating attested’.19 Myles contacted Charles sinews it can bear. I thank God that to pensions for Col. Oliver and Mary O’Conor of Balanagare, an authority I am enabled to bear this experience O’Gara indicates that Charles was on genealogy, with a request for through the succor I lately received no longer living with his parents information on the MacDermot from the Netherlands…24 in Saint-Germain by that date; The pedigree. Charles O’Conor confirmed In a letter to another relative in National Archives, Kew, S.P. 63/379, that the genealogical detail that linked 1781, Charles O’Conor described how scan 0066.tif. the MacDermots, the O’Garas and the intolerable the financial strain of the 4. Edward Corp, The Stuarts in Italy O’Conors was authentic.20 legal proceedings would have been (Cambridge, 2011), p. 285; Betty Also receiving a legacy of 10,000 but for ‘the legacy of my cousin Count Mac Dermot, O Ruairc of Breifne, French pounds was Charles O’Conor O’Gara [that] came opportunely to my (Manorhamilton, 1990), p. 170. of Belanagare.21 When he received relief and eased me of a great part of 5. Archivo Historico notice of the O’Gara bequest, he my burden’.25 Nacional,Madrid,exp. exchanged letters with the executor The property and lands at Belanagare 1085, Alcántara, folio 50v. of the will in Brussels, Jean-Francois are still in the ownership of a member 6. The National Archives, Deuzan, and with Randal Plunket of the O’Conor Don family today. Kew, England, S.P. 63/379 scan 0066.tif. of Dunsany, grandnephew of the Charles’s parents, Col Oliver and 7. O’Gara to Barnewall et al., count and one of the two principal Mary O’Gara, had left Ireland for Registry of Deeds, Dublin, no. beneficiaries of the will. The firm of exile in France in the winter of 1691- 39572, book 57, p. 527. La Touche in Dublin dealt with the 2. The count’s great-grandfather was 8. Act, Fleming/O’Gara widow, NLI,

68 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014

LO 2391, (Dublin 1736), pp 12–13. 13. Will of Count Charles O’Gara, 22. Letters of Charles O’Conor of 9. Archivo Historico Nacional, 1773, article 13. Belanagare, Brussels, 19 May 1778, Madrid, exp. 1085, Alcántara, folios 14. Lart, Jacobite Extracts, Registers Ms B i 2. 50v, 50r. of Saint Germain-en-laye, 2 vols 23. Ward & Ward, The Letters of 10. Count Charles O’Gara’s (London, 1910–12), vol. I, p. 74. Charles O’Conor of Belanagare, paternal grandmother was Mary 15. Will of Count Charles O’Gara, 1980, vol ii, letter 288, p. 103. O’Conor of Belanagare, grandaunt 1773, article 17. 24. Ward & Ward, The Letters of to Charles O’Conor, who explains 16. Will of Count Charles O’Gara, Charles O’Conor of Belanagare, his relationship with Colonel Oliver codicil 1776, article 18. 1980, vol ii, letter 307, p. 125. O’Gara’s family in a letter to an 17. Will of Count Charles O’Gara, 25. R.E. Ward, J.F. Wrynn S.J. & O’Conor cousin c.1769. See Ward execution of will, 27 May 1778. Catherine Coogan Ward, The Letters & Ward, The Letters of Charles 18. Will of Count Charles O’Gara, of Charles O’Conor of Belanagare, O’Conor of Belanagare, typescript 1773, article 25. 1988 (Washington, 1988), vol. ii, 1980, vol. I, letter 202, pp 271–2. 19. I am grateful to the late Madame letter 353, pp 413–14. 11. Notary of Brabant, Will of Count Felicity MacDermot at Coolavin 26. Books of Survey and Charles O’Gara (1773, 1776, 1778). House, , Co. Sligo, Distribution: Sligo, pp 130–2. (Copies in possession of Maura for this information; Dermot Mac 27. Will of Count Charles O’Gara, O’Gara-O’Riordan.) Dermot, MacDermot of Moylurg, 1773, article 4. 12. Will of Count Charles O’Gara, (Nure, Manorhamilton, 1996), pp 1773, articles 7 and 30; Will of Count 337–8. Charles O’Gara, codicil 1776, article 20. Ward & Ward, The Letters of I am grateful to Dr Máire Ní 5; Will of Count Charles O’Gara, Charles O’Conor of Belanagare, Chearbhaill for her assistance with 1773, article 10; Will of Count 1980, vol. ii, letter 294, pp 108–9. the writing and editing of this article. Charles O’Gara, codicil 1776, article 21. Will of Count Charles O’Gara, 6. 1773, article 24. Emlanaughton National School in the 1940’s

Back row: 1 Michael Carr 2 James Flanagan 3 Jimmy Cawley 4 Andrew Kerins 5 Tommy Cawley 6 JP Muldoon 7 Charlie Kerins 8 P J.McGuinn Middle row: 1 Pauline Cawley 2 Kathleen Carr 3 Geraldine Breheny 4 Aggie McGuinn 5 Maureen McGuinn 6 Eileen Muldoon 7 Josephine McGuinn 8 Rita Davey 9 Michael McGuinn Front row: 1 Seamus Hogge 2 Seamus Fahey 3 Liam Fahey 4 Tommy Mc Carrick 5 Seamus Doddy 6 Alfie Davey 7 Paddy 69 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 Vanished Shop Fronts Photographs collected for the Gathering photography exhibition

70 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 Mining in the Connaught Mineral Field Pat Hughes The main mining activity was steel manufacture and marketing. He by reason of the great number of centered in the Arigna valley, and quickly surveyed the area and set up workmen and labourers of several there were five distinct phases in the iron-works at Arigna, Drumshanbo, sorts, a list of whose names and mining history of Arigna. and Creevela. offices here followeth: From earlier times to 1600AD In his Natural , - Woodcutters who fell the timber. there was small-scale iron mining, Boate, a contemporary of Coote - Sawyers to saw the timber. the ‘sort of iron mines dug out of the describes this process: - Carpenters smiths masons and mountains.’ (Boates, Ireland’s Natural ‘At the end of a great barn standeth bellows makers to erect the iron History). From 1600-1770 wrought a huge furnace being at the height of works with all the appurtenances iron or steel was produced on a a pike and a half or more [presumably thereof. continuous commercial basis. Timber the pike was then in every day use] - Watercourse keepers to steer the was then in abundant supply and was and four-square in figure but after watercourses and to look to them used to produce charcoal to smelt the the manner of a malt kiln – narrow constantly. iron at very high temperatures. below and by degrees growing wider - Basket makers to make baskets to From 1770 to the 1860s the timber towards the top so that the compass of carry the ore and other materials. stocks were exhausted, and iron the mouth or top is of many fathoms. - Boatmen and boat-wrights to mining continued with coal mined The mouth is not covered but open make the boats and to go into them. mainly to replace charcol for smelting. all over so that the flame when the - Diggers, who work in the mine From the 1870s to the 1950s, there furnace is kindled rising through the and dig the same. was coal mining only, for domestic same without any hindrance, may be - Carriers who carry the ore from and industrial use. Finally, between seen a great way off during the night. the mine. the 1950s and 1990, operations ‘The ovens are not kindled with - Colliers to make the charcoal. continued with government support wood but with charcoal whereof - Corders who bring the charcoal to through the ESB generating station. they consume a huge quantity, for the works. the furnace when kindled is allowed - Fillers whose work it is from time Period: Earlier Times - 1600 never to go out but kept continually to time to put ore and charcoal into Intermittent mining on a small scale. burning from one end of the year to the furnace. Used to produce tools, weapons and the other, and the proportion of the - Keepers of the furnace, who look utensils. Probably smelted using coals to the ore is very great, and to the main works, rake out the ashes timber as fuel. It would have been that the fire may be more quick or and cinders and let out the molten very low-grade iron, which would violent. It is continually blown by metal at convenient times. bend and break easily. two vast pair of bellows, which are - Finers who look to the works kept perpetually in action by means where the iron is hammered. Period: 1600 – 1770 of a great wheel which is driven by - Hammerers whose work is to see The first commercial, continuous- a little brook, maketh them rise and the iron is hammered out. process iron smelting was set up fall by turns so that while the one pair Besides several other labourers who by Sir Charles Coote in the early doth swell and fill itself with wind, help to put their hand to everything. 1600s. Coote, a commander in the other doth blow the same into the ‘All of such sorts of men Sir Charles Mountjoy’s army, acquired estates furnace.’ Coote the elder did continually keep in Roscommon, Cavan and Laois Regarding the costs involved in at work, some 2,500-2,600 at his – hence the placenames , the erection and maintenance of an iron works, and for all this the owner and – after the iron works he continues: ‘Essentials thereof did greatly gain thereby no battle of Kinsale. Cootehall would are, enough wood on one’s land less than 40 in the 100 per annum have encompassed a large proportion together with the conveniences of [40% net]. of the Arigna mineral field. He water courses not far from the mine. ‘Two ores are used, rock mine obviously had first-hand knowledge of Nevertheless the costs are great and white mine, and mixed in the 71 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 proportion of one part of rock mine to and never ceasing from knocking day Period: 1770 - 1860 two parts of white mine. The furnace or night are being kept at work by Shortly after this, three brothers is not filled to the top but some space means of wheels turned by the water named O’Reilly recommenced is left empty, and to put new stuff into courses in the same manner as the working at Furnace Hill, using coal it they do not wait until the former wheels of the bellows.’ from Seltenaskeagh for smelting, and is quite consumed but only until it is While it is said the Arigna iron was iron ore from Slieve-an-Ieren. This somewhat descended, and then they of better quality and less expensive to was the first time coal was used in cast into it some baskets of coals, and mine, its remoteness was a problem. Ireland for smelting. The O’Reilly’s at the top of them the same quantity The Mountrath (Co Laois) product, were said to have ceased operations of ore, and thus they do from time on the other hand, was sent by boat when a boat loaded with iron ore to time so as the furnace is in a down the Nore to Waterford and from foundered off Cormorgan townland. manner always in one and the same there trans-shipped to London. Coal was first discovered on state. Where it is to be observed that During the 1641/49 rebellion, Altagowlan in 1765 at a place called in most furnaces they add into the Coote’s works were attacked; they Mounterkenny, two miles west of ore and coals some quantity of iron were manned exclusively by English . The landowner, Mr cinders and in others of limestone and Dutch workers recruited from his Jones, worked the coal for some time. whereby the melting of the iron is former army. Coote himself was slain Quoting from Chas O’Connor on The greatly furthered. in the first year of the rebellion. Parish of Kilronan: ‘There are also ‘Within the barn at the bottom of Boate refers to ‘That zealous and about 250 horses fed here which are the furnace stand constantly two men, famous warrior in this present war employed in the carriage of coals and one on each side. They with long against the Irish rebels wherein having culm from Mr Jones’ colliery, all over iron hooks through holes left for the done many memorable exploits he the adjacent country. Their method of purpose do every quarter of an hour lost his life in the first year thereof.’ conveyance is by back loads, in small draw out the unburnt coals ash and Soon afterwards Coote’s son, Sir baskets, half a barrel in each; their cinders. The iron itself descendeth to Charles Coote the younger, got a price about 12s per ton, for every ten the lowest part of the furnace called commission to raise an army to uphold miles.’ the ‘hearth’, which being filled to parliament. It probably included most Presumably the lack of roads made below the level of the aforesaid holes, of the workers in the iron-works the use of carts impossible. The they unstop the hearth and open the and as a result the entire complex colliery was considered so important mouth thereof. closed down. Shortly after the battle that a parliamentary grant was voted ‘The floor of the barn hath a mould of the Boyne in 1690 iron works to aid the making of roads to it but no of sand upon it wherein before they were re-established at Drumshanbo, funds materialized and the mine was open the door a furrow is made of Ballinamore and Creevelea. abandoned. sufficient breadth and depth through The works of Patrick Reynolds at On the far side of the valley at the whole length of the barn from the Drumshanbo at this time are said to Aughabehy there was plenty of coal, bottom of the furnace to the barns have produced the iron used in the and before 1800 it was worked by Col door, into which furrow when the first ship built in Limerick by the East Thomas Tenison, the royalty owner. furnace door is opened the molten iron India Company. Presumably the steel Further down the same valley runneth very suddenly and forcibly. It was used to produce spars, trusses, the Rover colliery on the lands of doth presently lose its liquidness and rivets and so on. the archbishop of started redness turning into a hard stiff mass, The site of the Drumshanbo works production. which masses are called ‘sows’ by the was near the canal crossing of Cavan Up until 1930 these were the oldest workmen. and Leitrim railway. The place is still regularly-worked mines in the whole ‘The sows are with teams of oxen known as Furnace Hill. valley. drawn to the hammer works where Fuel used for smelting was charcoal, After abandoning Furnace Hill, being put into the fire again they melt then easily obtained. However after the three O’Reilly brothers erected them into finery. Then they carrieth continuous use the supply of timber the Arigna Iron Works, held under them under the hammer where it ran out and Drumshanbo works demise from the Tenison family, in is hammered out into such narrow closed in 1765 followed by Creevelea 1788. These were on a large scale flat and thin bars as are to be seen in 1768. compared with previous works. everywhere. Quoting Dalton in Barony of Boyle: ‘The hammers being huge big ones ‘Bar and pig-iron of the best quality

72 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 and castings of every description is purpose of draining the mine and in employed in both the iron works and produced.’ A report in the Dublin the process using the waterway thus Aughabehy colliery. Chronicle on 30 November 1790 created as a canal on which to take Meanwhile in London legal stated: ‘We hear that the Arigna out the coal by boat. When abandoned proceedings were started against works on the border of Lough Allen by the brothers it reached 300 yards ‘Those involved in the fraudulent are at this hour in a most prosperous into the mountain. It is said that the formation of the company.’ state, and that within three years the system worked. At this time two new companies entire provinces of Connaught and Latouche continued to be interested began mining in the valley at Munster will be hence fully supplied and at the Chancery sale he bought Tullynahaw, the Hibernian Mining with iron of every denomination and the works for £25,000. But despite Company and The Irish Mining that when the Royal Canal shall have investing further capital and making Company. The former hit a faulty reached the Shannon the rest of the several changes of management he seam and gave up early. The Irish kingdom will in all probability be eventually had to call it a day in 1808. Mining Co continued for a long supplied with that useful metal.’ Years later, while showing a friend time, erecting a steam engine to haul However the brothers soon found around his garden in Dublin, he the coal from the shaft and a small themselves short of capital and pointed to a little gate and said, ‘That dock and quay at Lough Allen. The approached the Irish parliament gate cost me £80,000 for it is all I Lough Allen canal was completed for a grant of £10,000. Despite ever got out of my investment in the and opened in 1817 and it was now two favourable reports from an Arigna Iron Works.’ possible to ship coal throughout the investigating committee, no grant Part of the development of the country. was given. iron-works was the provision of the In 1825 the iron works commenced The O’Reilly’s next approached first iron railway line in Ireland on production and up to May 1826, the famous Dublin banking firm of an inclined plane, 250 to 300 yards 230.5 tons of product was exported Latouche. An advance was received, long and probably connecting the to England. Unfortunately a serious but too little. A second advance upper and lower works. A reservoir accident resulted in the plant closing was received but was too late to be or ‘Furnace Pool’ was also provided down shortly afterwards when molten effective, and the brothers became where the ‘Bay Field’ is today. metal was allowed to solidify in the bankrupt in 1792. After being abandoned by Latouche smelter, leaving it damaged beyond Peter Latouche (who now had an a considerable part of the works was repair. No more iron was smelted interest through his loans) and Col ‘removed’, and after some time a during the next ten years. Tenison petitioned parliament for caretaker was appointed. Following this setback a new assistance to keep the works from In 1824 a Mr Flattery, an architect board was appointed. The members being abandoned. They asked for a or builder, came on the scene. He were concerned about the feasibility bounty on home-produced iron, but obviously saw opportunities in the of the whole project and employed while parliament seemed favourable area and he leased the property. a consultant, Mr JA Twigg of nothing was done. He returned to London and met Sir Chesterfield, to study and report on The main problem at the plant was William Congreve, an inventor and the business. a heavy stationery steam engine used explosives expert. Together with The Twigg report was published for blowing the furnace when the river Congreve and the Clark brothers, Mr. in London in 1827 and had three was low. Despite a further injection Flattery set up a joint stock company, main recommendations. First, to of funds by Latouche, the works had ‘The Arigna Iron and Coal Co’, to complete the shaft at the Aughabehy to close down in 1798, less than ten develop the Arigna valley. It appears mine begun by the O’Reilly’s and years after starting, and afterwards that the formation of the company did to enlarge it to allow horse transport were sold by the Court of Chancery. not fully conform with company law through it. Second, to build coke The works were in two parts – as it then was, and there were also yards at the mouth of the shaft, and Upper and Lower – with smelting some doubts concerning the motives third to construct a railway from the carried out in the former and rolling of the promoters. A committee of coke yards to the works, and thus in the latter. the House of Commons was set up replace the packhorse and manual In developing the Aughabehy mine, to investigate the matter. However labour then being used to transport the O’Reilly’s drove a shaft 5ft high work in the old iron works did start the fuel. by 4ft 9ins wide into the mountain in Arigna in 1824. As with Coote, The directors began immediately below the level of the coal for the English or foreign workers were to implement the recommendations

73 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 but as with the previous regime they of the original Tay Bridge bore the used cheaper imported Welsh coal for regularly changed managers so there words, ‘Manufactured at Creevelea.’ all its lines. The second reason was a was little continuity. The last manager, Also the Metal Bridge in Dublin was long-drawn-out legal action between Mr Thomas Cox, an Englishman, was cast here, and it is claimed that at the Arigna Mining Co and the Layden murdered when his home was raided least one of the cannon used in the family over ‘territorial rights’ started by thieves. Crimean war came from here. in 1924 and finished in the Supreme However by 1831 the railway Court in 1929. Judgment was given line, measuring 5,500 yards, was Period: 1870 - 1950 against the Arigna Mining Co, which completed at a cost of approximately Back at Arigna. the opening of the then went into voluntary liquidation £4,000. The line, which was designed Ballinamore-Ballyconnel (Shannon- and turned over all its mining royalties for horse operation, was completed Erne) canal (which had a life-span to Laydens in lieu of costs. The to a very high standard. The shaft of eight years), enabled one cargo of Layden Co moved into Aughabehy at Aughabehy was deepened and coal to be sent to Enniskillen. and in a short time removed all its widened to measure 6ft by 7ft so that In the late 1880s one or two extra coal. Thus in 1931 after 150 years in horse transport would be possible pits were opened. In 1888, the modern use, work ceased at Aughabehy. through it. age of coal mining in the valley Apart from water power, the steam Legal proceedings against the began. From that year, mining has engine was the main motive force in company continued, but in January gone on almost without interruption industry during this period. Coal was 1836 Flattery gained control. He then until 1990, and in this period most of required by the GSR cement works, operated the works for a further two the rail and tramway developments ESB, creameries, sugar companies, years, employing 600 men, but in took place. food and preserves processors, 1838 due to competition from cheap In 1888 the Arigna Mining hospitals and institutions. imported iron and a further threat of Company was formed by some of the During the ‘Emergency’, because legal action, the Arigna iron-works directors of the newly opened Cavan, of lack of imports, coal was sold was finally closed down. Leitrim and Roscommon Light under permit and the Arigna mines The industrial revolution was then Railway, for the purpose of supplying were working at full capacity. in full swing, demanding more and the railway with cheap coal. The Period: 1950-1990 more low-cost iron which could only chairman of both companies was the Diesel and electricity replaced be met by the very large and efficient Earl of Kingston who owned the coal steam in industry while Polish mills then being developed in royalties on both sides of the river. coal, which was exported solely to England and Wales. The small Arigna At about the same time the Layden acquire foreign currency, undersold plants with poor infrastructure were family began mining in the valley and the Arigna product in the domestic no longer viable. The railway line while they did well from the start, the market. Unable to compete, the was taken up and removed some time Arigna Mining Co encountered some smaller mines closed down. However later. difficulties. State intervention in the form of a Meanwhile near Drumkeerin Attempts were made by the Mining coal-fired ESB generator, established at the site of the old Coote works Co to get the railway extended up at Lough Allen, kept the bigger mines at Creevelea a few unsuccessful the valley. On the outbreak of World operating for some time. Eventually attempts were made to develop an War1, the Board of Works drew economics forced the ESB to close iron-works. up plans for this extension. Work down this facility in 1990 and mining In 1852 a Scottish company moved began in 1918 and was completed in in Arigna was no more. in and erected buildings and equipment 1920 at a cost of £60,000. The main on a large scale. The enterprise failed beneficiary was the Arigna Mining Sources: two years later in 1854. One reason Co. through its mine at Aughabehy. Roscommon Co Library. for the failure was that while the iron Two factors hastened the end of Drumshanbo Co Library ore was available locally, the coal had the Mining Co. First, the GSR (Great The Arigna Valley, PJ Flanagan. to be brought from Altagowlan almost Southern Railway) was formed in The Natural History of Ireland, Boate The Barony of Boyle, John Dalton. ten miles away, using horse transport. 1925, which absorbed most Irish Statistical Account of the Parish Nevertheless, so well constructed was railways including the Cavan-Leitrim of Kilronan, in Ireland, and the the blast furnace that it still remains line, and it ended the agreement for neighboring district, Charles O as a monument to bygone days. the supply of coal by The Arigna Connor It is said that some of the sheets Mining Co. The GSR from then on Mining Heritage Society of Ireland

74 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 The Irish Revolution 1912-23 Neal Farry

To write an appreciation of Dr material locations are provided Michael Farry’s absorbing history of on a chapter by chapter basis. The the revolutionary experience of Co primary and secondary sources and Sligo from 1912 to 1923 is indeed their locations are listed in an orderly a presumptuous and superfluous manner so any reader who wishes activity, because in the forewords to to further investigate any incident his book, Mary Ann Lyons, Dept of will have no difficulty following the History, NUI Maynooth, Daithi O author’s signposting. Corrain, Dept of History, St. Patrick’s, As is obvious from the number of Drumcondra, and David Fitzpatrick, annotated incidents it would be quite Trinity College, Dublin, express more impossible for me to draw attention to than adequately their admiration everything of importance in the text. and academic evaluations of Dr Nevertheless a number of themes had Farry’s most recent work, which was a particular attraction for me, perhaps published in 2012 by the Four Courts because I was acquainted with many Press. of the participants in the struggle and However, it seems appropriate with the manner that they reacted to that some words of appreciation of their experiences under the stress Dr Farry’s achievement should be of agitation, politics in a state of recorded in the current issue of the Michael Farry mercurial flux, social confrontation Corran Herald in view of the fact history from below and such ‘local and guerrilla warfare. I found the that the celebrated Coolaney and studies have helped to restore the following topics to be essential Trim historian is a regular votary of force of rationality and adaptability in strands that coloured society, altering the activities of Ballymote Heritage Irish revolutionary history, and thus events within the period: Group. Since his book appeared to call into question the primacy of - The reduction of the number on the bookshelves last year I have the romantic idealism often attributed of RIC barracks during the war of become aware of a lot of interest in to the 1916 rebellion or republican independence, the destruction of its content at local level, especially resistance in the civil war.’ many barracks and the abandonment among families who had past relatives Indeed Dr Farry interprets his of extensive areas of the county to who were protagonists in the events sources, data and the people he IRA control that shaped our nation as we know it encounters from the period with - The campaign to have ranches today. meticulous objectivity, and he presents and large estate farms divided among Dr Farry’s 1912-23 history is Sligo’s a countywide multitude displaying small farmers, a central policy of all contribution to a series of county every conceivable shade of political, Irish Nationalist parties that reached histories that have been researched social, commercial, educational and a violent climax in the Ballymote/ and published in recent decades. The religious opinion with admirable Bunninadden area with the Hannan editors Mary Ann Lyons and Daithi O empathy and sensibility. He tells us purchase of the Oldrock ranch and the Corrain are at pains to inform us that that ‘this book is the culmination of double shotgun attack on Hannan’s ‘the series brings together for the first thirty years’ interest and study of Hotel in Ballymote with a view to time the various strands of the exciting the revolutionary period in County intimidate Judge Wakely who was to and fresh scholarship within a single Sligo.’ The present work is contained judge relevant agrarian outrages coherent, overarching interpretative in 115 pages of text but the same - Ambushes by the IRA at Ratra, framework, making available concise, material can be accessed in much twice at Chaffpool, Ballyrush and accessible, scholarly studies of the greater detail in Dr Farry’s earlier Culleens where casualties occurred Irish Revolution experience at a local histories: Sligo, 1914-21: A Chronicle - The assassination of Sergeant level to a wide audience.’ David of Conflict (1994) and The Aftermath Fallon RIC in Ballymote and the Fitzpatrick says that by investigating of Revolution: Sligo 1921-23 (2000). resultant reprisals by British forces historical events at parish, town or Throughout the text every incident - Reprisals in Tubbercurry after county level we attempt to write is annotated and 848 detailed source the death of DI Brady in the second

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Chaffpool ambush - The arrest of Jim for the occupation of Sligo Town and - The superbly organised escape of - The drowning of Michael Marren Collooney Frank Carty from Sligo Jail one day after the truce - The casualties suffered by the - The demise of the Nationalist Irish - The dominant and domineering National Army at Rockwood and by Parliamentary Party after the 1918 demeanour of IRA men in the period the anti-treaty forces ‘Noble Six’ at General Election between the Truce and the civil war Ben Bulben - The introduction of Proportional - The bizarre confrontation between - The execution of two suspected Representation for the first time in the IRA and the Ladies’ Sodality spies by republicans after the arrest of a UK election for Sligo Borough concerning the occupation of the some of their men near Tubbercurry Council front seats at Sunday Mass in Gurteen - A number of sectarian attacks - The effective guerrilla activity Church particularly the burning of Doobeg of South Sligo IRA and their almost - The dispute between the IRA House, Bunninadden, home of total control of railway traffic between and the parish priest of Collooney Charles Phillips Ballymote and Boyle regarding the organisation of mixed - The arrest of Patrick Coleman in - The number of times that the Irish language classes for national Ballymote South Sligo IRA under Michael teachers - The dumping of arms by anti-treaty Marren disarmed British and RIC - The domination of Sligo County forces in May 1923 on the orders of personnel and freed them when such Council by the IRA gunmen after the without surrendering or opportunities in other counties led to truce- negotiating a settlement to end the heavy casualties on the British side, a - The 1922 General Election civil war. degree of humane behaviour that does - The predominance of republican The 28 excellent contemporary not seem to have been appreciated at anti-treaty IRA in North Sligo and the photographs speak for themselves. national IRA level ascendancy of the pro-treaty National A number of Dr Michael Farry’s - The attack on Templehouse in Army in South Sligo during the civil praiseworthy, accurate and search of arms war informative books can be still found - Cumann na mBan activity which - The respective careers of Billy on bookshelves throughout the featured the Bohan sisters and Susan Pilkington and Alex McCabe county. At €16.99 a copy it is indeed Hannon, Ballymote - The struggles for the Ballinalee a bargain. - The shootout in Ballymote where armoured car Constable O’Brien lost his life - The attacks by the National Army James Daly and the Land League - The Sligo Connection by Neil Mongey James Daly, and John Most of the speeches were delivered When the three prisioners were Boyce Killeen attended the second in Irish to thwart British Government being brought from the jail to the meeting of the Land League held on agents. court they were preceded by the the 2nd November 1879 in Gurteen. Killeen was defended by John Ancient Order of Hiberians Band They announced that it was time to Rea, a brilliant but eccentric Belfast and followed by large numbers of rid Ireland of landlordism and track- Presbyterian solicitor. Through his supporters. renting. Daly had cycled to Gurteen tactics he drew world attention to In 2006 on the Centenary of from Castlebar. Subsequently all the trials and gained publicity for the Davitt’s death, his grandson Fr three were arrested and imprisoned in Land League. Thomas Davitt and Neil Mongey, Sligo’s Cranmore Jail. held a great-grandson of James Daly, stood All were charged with making meeting at the gates of the Assize in the dock in Sligo Courthouse seditious speeches at a court on Court and scoffed at the arrests. where their forefathers appeared. November 24. Daly was reported to Parnell denounced the jury packing have said, ‘Don’t pay the landlord which resulted in the prosecution until you have a guarantee from him being withdrawn in contempt and that your children will not starve.’ ridicule. 76 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 Heritage Weekend 2012 All photos by Paddy Conboy.

Dr Edward McParland who performed the official opening and delivered the Friday Betty Conlon, secretary, with Fr Hannon, evening lecture on the theme of ‘what is enjoying some serious discussion classical architecture’

Des Black, chairman (left) with Stephen Cameron, who gave the Sunday evening lecture on the An eager audience awaiting the commencement of a lecture Titanic

Kevin Myers delivering his Monday evening Eileen Tighe, president, and Pam Benson, joint lecture on the Ballymote, Sligo and the Great treasurer War 77 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 Mayo Churches, Stained Glass and more Micheál Murphy

When Betty Conlon asked me to plan Loughrea. The cooperative flourished a trip for the Ballymote Heritage under the management of AE Child Society in August last year, I don’t who also taught the technique think she had stained glass in mind, but and design of stained glass in the somehow it came to play a big part in Metropolitan School of Art and in An our tour. Prior to my involvement in the Túr Gloine until his death in 1939. church windows’ restoration project in my own parish of Killasser for the Newport millennium year 2000, I had scarcely After our visit to Holy Trinity Church given a second glance to the art or and a pit-stop at the TF Royal Hotel, the symbolism of stained glass. But our bus took us past the Mayo Peace researching the history and meaning Park and Garden of Remembrance of the windows awakened an interest where the names of Mayo-born in these under-appreciated treasures of soldiers who died in service all over our churches. the world are recorded. Then it was westward to the town of Newport Castlebar on the shores of Clew Bay, with its Before embarking on our stained glass Christ with Philip and St James landmark Midland Great Western trail we took our first stop in Castlebar by in Christ Church, Railway Viaduct. Constructed of local where Noel O’Neill, who has few Castlebar red sandstone, it accommodated a equals as a local historian, pointed out train-link between Westport and Achill some of its landmarks. The Mall, the On the opposite side of the Mall stands from 1894 until 1937. The same red centrepiece of the town, was originally Holy Trinity Church where Noel took sandstone and craftsmanship is evident the cricket green of the local landlord us to meet the sacristan, Trevor Ardill, in the imposing Romanesque Catholic family, the Binghams, who held who had kindly opened the building Church built in 1914 and dedicated to the title of ‘Lord Lucan’. (Richard for us to view the beautiful three-light St Patrick. It was here that we spent an Bingham, the infamous seventh Earl window by Sarah Purser, the only one hour or so, in appreciation and wonder of Lucan, mysteriously disappeared in of hers in Mayo. The window shows at the magnificence of its stained glass England in 1974 following the death Christ with Philip and St James and is windows. Its pièce de resistance is of his children’s nanny). Overlooking one of the earliest windows produced The Last Judgement, a three-light the Mall is Daly’s Hotel where James in An Túr Gloine, a co-operative window over the main altar. Designed Daly and Michael Davitt founded the studio which Sarah Purser founded in by the renowned (1889- Land League in 1879. Nearby stood Dublin in 1903. Before that time there 1931), it was his last and possibly his the ‘Hanging Tree’ where Fr Andrew were some individual stained glass finest work. Harry Clarke was born in Conroy of Bofeenaun was hanged by artists working throughout Ireland Dublin, the son of Joshua Clarke who the British for his part in assisting the but most of the windows inserted in had set up his own stained glass studios French Forces in 1798. Noel showed our churches came from England or in Dublin in 1886. Harry worked in us a cross which had been carved Germany, notably from the Mayer his father’s studios but also trained from the wood of the tree after it Studios in Munich. The Gaelic Revival under the aforementioned AE Child in fell in the 1930s. George Fitzgerald, movement was gaining strength at the the School of Art. His work is noted alias Fighting Fitzgerald of Turlough turn of the 20th century and one of for its vivid imagination, its vibrant House, was hanged in the Bridewell its greatest supporters was Edward colours, notably blues and purples, Jail nearby for his part in the murder Martyn, the Galway based landowner. and its intricate detail. On the death of of a neighbouring landlord, George He not only encouraged Sarah Purser his father in 1921, Harry took over the McDonnell, in 1786. The Methodist to establish An Túr Gloine but through running of the stained glass studios, Church, now the Castlebar Christian his influence and benevolence he but he was plagued by ill-health and Fellowship, has links with John assured its survival by sponsoring died of tuberculosis at the age of 42. Wesley who laid the foundation stone many commissions for the newly Commissioned in 1926 by Canon here in 1785. constructed St Brendan’s Cathedral in McDonald PP, this sanctuary window

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Richard King under Swinford Church below). This Resurrection window portrays the risen Lord with uplifted arms displaying his sacred wounds. The opening to the right is dominated by the angel seated above the empty tomb, in conversation with the Holy Women.

The O’Donel Window in the south wall of the church This window was commissioned from the Mayer Studios in Munich by Sir George and Lady O’Donel for the convent in Newport in 1887. The O’Donels were a branch of the Earls of Railway Viaduct, Newport who had lived in Newport was not completed until 1931 because opening, Christ is shown kneeling in House for 200 years. When Captain the artist became seriously ill. Before prayer. Soldiers with lighted torches George O’Donel was killed at Ypres his death in January 1931 he had stand in the background. In the left in 1915 his widow sold the property. completed the drawings for the window panel, an angel with outstretched arms The O’Donel window was relocated to and they were installed posthumously comforts Christ in his agony while the the church after the Convent of Mercy that year. Canon McDonald had sold three apostles are sleeping. closed in the town in 1977. The right his life insurance policy for £800 to panel shows St Joseph with the Child pay for the window. Our Lady’s Chapel: The Adoration Jesus in his arms and the left panel The centre opening is dominated by of the Magi portrays the Virgin Mary. the figure of Christ, with outstretched In the left opening, Our lady is seated hands, acting as Judge on the Last holding the child Jesus on her knees. Burrishoole Dominican Friary day. Surrounding Christ’s head are The ‘Irish Magi’ (Colmcille, Brigid, Continuing on our religious theme, our six saintly figures and four adoring Patrick and Brendan) pay Him homage bus took us west again to Burrishoole cherubs about his feet. Under them in the adjoining panel. St Colmcille is Friary which was founded by Richard another angel, blowing a trumpet, calls standing with the Abbot’s cross in one Burke of Turlough, the Mac William the dead to judgement while an angel hand and the book of psalms and a Oughter, for the Dominicans in 1470. sitting with a scroll and a quill on either quill in the other. Standing beside him It flourished for about 200 years until side of the trumpet records the verdict. with arms crossed is St Brigid. In front the suppression of the Penal Laws Beneath the trumpet, an illuminated and to her left is the kneeling figure resulted in the deterioration of the cross guides the throng of shrouded of St Patrick holding a miniature Irish building. The roof collapsed in 1793. figures from earth to hear their fate. Church. St Brendan is distinguishable However the friars continued to live The left opening shows Our Lady by the oar under his left arm. At the in the vicinity of the abbey until about seated in Paradise with six apostles base is a glimpse of Clew Bay with 1800. The ruins, Gothic in style, are around her head. Happy angels Croagh Patrick to the west. quite substantial with the church and with the joyful figures of the Just (The windows in the side chapels portion of the cloister still standing. are represented underneath. Six described above were commissioned Among those buried within its walls other apostles are grouped around St from the Clarke Studios in 1971 by is Peregrine O’Clery (Cúchoigriche Patrick’s head in the right opening. At the members of the fourth Western Ó’Cléirigh 1624-1664), one of the St Patrick’s feet are five cherubs and Division of the Old IRA in memory of Four Masters who helped compile the awful spectacle of the damned in General .) the Annals of Ireland and who also hell where Harry Clarke has included supplied Dubhaltach Mac Firbisigh his own self-portrait. The Resurrection Window in the with family history for his great book Sacred Heart Chapel of genealogy, Leabhar na nGinéalach. Sacred Heart Chapel: The Agony in This window was commissioned from We must express our sincere thanks the Garden Richard King by Archbishop Walsh to fellow traveller, Frank Tivnan, This is a two-light window. In the right in memory of his family (see note on expert on monastic buildings, who

79 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 pointed out features of the abbey to us They are executed using the technique and placed them in context with other of oils on masonite and are similar to Dominican abbeys of that period. the stations which King did in 1951 for We must also pay tribute to our driver St Joseph’s Church, Carrickmacross. who got us out of many tight corners Swinford Church holds two windows that day and turned the 52-seater bus by Hubert McGoldrick who was also on the proverbial sixpence with bus a member of An Túr Gloine. They and passengers emerging unscathed. are single light windows, installed in 1940, portraying Our Lady of Lourdes Our Lady Help of Christians and Christ the King. Church, Swinford Another feature of the church is the A very welcome and relaxed lunch in pulpit, now lowered and relocated for Nevins of Tiernaur refreshed us for use as the ambo in the sanctuary. It is the journey home but it also whetted the work of James Pearse, father of the the appetite for more stained glass. In patriot, Padraig Pearse. referring to the work of Harry Clarke in Newport, I mentioned that Richard St Patrick’s Church, Newport Reflecting on our Journey King was one of his students and The Old and New Testament window Our tour took in just three churches in that his work was well represented in the left hand nave towards the rear Mayo where there are fine examples in Swinford Church. This brought of the church is a later example of of the art of stained glass. As early as th requests for a visit there on our return King’s work. The figures here are more the 12 century, plain glass had been journey. Ballymote native, Fr Dermot simplified, showing greater clarity than included in our monasteries and abbeys. Meehan, now parish priest of Swinford his earlier work but with less variety in Gradually, dyes were incorporated kindly came to welcome us at very his use of colour. The Old Testament into the glass-making process and short notice and to explain the work of light shows the expulsion of Adam and floral or geometric designs were built Richard King in the church. Eve from the Garden of Eden, Abraham up, held together by lead interlace. Richard King was born in Castlebar about to sacrifice his son Isaac, Moses In time, images were incorporated, in 1907 where his father was an with the Ten Commandments and King showing biblical scenes or pictures RIC constable. The family moved David playing his harp before the Ark of the saints. When first introduced to Carracastle for a time and then to of the Covenant. The New Testament to churches, stained glass probably Westport before finally settling in light shows the Baptism of Jesus in the served as a teaching tool to impart Dublin. Richard studied at the Dublin Jordan, his Resurrection from the dead the scripture stories to an illiterate Metropolitan School of Art and later and the coming of the Holy Spirit. The people. It helped to eliminate external under Harry Clarke at his studios. lower right panel shows Pope Paul distractions and to create a subdued When Harry Clarke died in 1931, VI in a boat, representing the barque atmosphere for prayer and meditation. Richard became the chief artistic of Peter, with a number of , The images portrayed in stained glass designer at the Clarke Studios and was portraying the idea of shared ministry were sometimes intended to act as appointed manager in 1935. He opened between Pope and Bishops, one of the sacramentals, to inspire devotion to his own studios in Dalkey in 1940. central themes of Vatican Council II God and the saints. It was also a way The magnificent sanctuary window which was continuing in Rome at the of embellishing God’s house, to pay in Swinford Church is a splendid time of the installation of the window homage to His glory. As techniques example of King’s work. It depicts in 1964. developed, artists became not only Mary’s Assumption into Heaven, ‘a The clerestory windows high up on more adept in the process but also in woman clothed in the sun, standing the nave of the church are also from the symbolism expressed, thereby on the moon’ (Rev. 12:1-2). She is the Richard King studios. displaying a depth of spirituality and lifted up by a host of cherubs and is The Stations of the Cross in a knowledge of Christian theology flanked by St John the Evangelist and Swinford Church are a further example appropriate to a church setting. This St Patrick who holds a replica of the of Richard King’s talent. They were is especially true of the work of Harry church in his hand. Above this is a erected in 1953 and display an Clarke in Newport and Richard King rose window showing the Holy Trinity innovative approach to the depiction of in Swinford. waiting to welcome Mary as she Christ’s passion by showing only head My hope is that all my companions arrives in heaven. This window was and shoulder images, allowing us to that day enjoyed their sojourn in Mayo erected in 1952. focus on the anguish in Christ’s face. whether from an historical, a spiritual

80 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 or an aesthetic viewpoint, and that Newport, Co Mayo in Cathair na Windows of St Patrick’s Roman sometime in the future Noel and I will Mart, 2009, No. 27, p30-45 Catholic Church, in Back the Road, be able to share more of Mayo’s lesser- Vol. 1, No. 2 (Recollections of known treasures with them. Stained Glass Windows of Mayo by Burrishoole and Newport), Newport Sources Harry Clarke and the Clarke Studios, Historical Society, 1998 Ruth Sheehy, The Art of Richard 2009, Mayo County Council King (1907-1974) in Swinford and Sister M. Consilio, The Stained Glass

Headed paper of Hannan’s of Market Street from a receipt of July 1903. Note the range of its merchandise and services provided. The sign on the upper floor announces its operation as the Commercial Hotel! This facade has not altered; the premises operated for many years as Hayden’s pub and that name has been retained though it is now operated by Michael Perry. The receipt is made out to Captain Gethin, agent for the Gore Booth estate who lived at Earlsfield.

81 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 Dedicated to Sligo: Thirty-four Essays on Sligo’s Past by Martin A Timoney

Extracts from the editor’s speech at William Henry, Rev Martin the launch Sherlock, William Higgins, the Meldrum Family, My book Dedicated to Sligo, Thirty- the Yeats Family. The four Essays on Sligo’s Past was Battle of the Book at Cúl launched on 14th of June by Dr Patrick Dreimne. Sligo Town on F Wallace, former director of the Luttrell’s 1689 map. Sligo National Museum of Ireland, in the in 1739. God-in-the-Bottle. presence of over 100 enthusiastic Shopfronts. Fishing Boats. devotees of Sligo’s past. Folklife in practice in the The book has 34 articles, 36 authors, 1950s. Placenames of 300 illustrations and 500 numbered the Taaffe Landholdings, footnotes, all packed into 304 pages. Toomour and Sligeach. A wide range of authors describe, Recording Sligo in the past. analyse, interpret and re-interpret parts Mapping Sligo reviewed. of the complex, understudied, and at The cover design is by times misunderstood, archive of eight Bridget and Catherine thousand years of Co Sligo’s past. Timoney, using copyright Drawing new and exciting knowledge image courtesy of the about what Sligo looked like at times National Museum of in the remote past, the events which Ireland of ‘The O’Hara changed lifestyles and the products Lunula’, and a drawing of humble and status craftsmen, they by Albert Siggins of a Dedicated to Sligo give us a greater understanding of rushlight holder from our county and its place in Ireland’s Owenykeevan, Dromore a famine in which a quarter to a third past and present and they inform us of West, Co. Sligo. Many places and of the population died, a much greater some inspired intellectual and artistic landscapes get included by way of proportion than in the so-called Great giants of more recent centuries. The images. Famine. Perhaps that famine was why illustrations draw us out into the Sligo The culture of Sligo is not hanging William Henry went chasing souls and landscape, so richly endowed with on the walls of an art gallery, it is all never completed his Topographical the natural beauty, archaeology and around us, we live in its midst all the Description of Sligo. history that surround us all the days of time. Sligo is like an extraordinary Carrowmore is not more than 6,000 our lives. Some of the stories behind antique shop where you can enjoy years old; just about 5,500 years. these stories are published elsewhere monuments of all the events that It makes quite a difference in that in this issue of The Corran Herald. happened in the county over the last the Mesolithic line of argument by There is a great variety of themes: eight millennia. Frank Tivnan once Burenhult is untenable as Dr Robert Numbers of monuments in Co Sligo. commented ‘The damdest things are Hensey, with agreement from Stefan Paleobotany. C14 dates. Glimpses to be found here.’ A museum of Sligo Bergh, explains. of Bronze Age Life at and would be worthwhile, and is necessary, Eleanor Butler’s life in Sligo Dromahaire. The Caves of Keash, for us now and for the future, and we has still to be written up. Compare Coastal Shell Middens, Cormack need it now! It is not a case of wanting, the photos of the O’Connor Sligo McArt’s Well, Sligo Castle, Sligo it is a case of needing! monument in Sligo Abbey, which has Abbey and Hazelwood House. There are many revelations to been outdoor for some centuries, with Crafted Objects, antler pins, Bronze be found in the book. Rev William those of Donadea, Co. Kildare, which Age and Iron Age gold ornaments, a Henry was not from Fermanagh, nor has never been outdoors and you see Bronze Age necklace and Drumcliff Donegal, nor Gloucestershire, but what weathering does to stonework. High Cross and its date. Eleanor from Sligo, most likely John St. The Surely the so-called transept of the Butler, Henry McCarrick, Rev Sligo weather of 1739 and 1740 gave Abbey is the family chapel that

82 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014

Eleanor Butler endowed. Jim Conlon told me of where the second part of the O’Connor Sligo memorial is in Co Louth. The O’Crian monument in Sligo Abbey of 1506 was rebuilt at some stage. Rev Martin Sherlock appears to have had input into the Diamond Skreen School of Monumental Sculpture which may have been greater than recognised until now. Sligo Stone Fort, on the site of the castle in Quay St, is not all gone; there is a reflection of it in upstairs of Lyons, Garry’s Stafford’s restaurant; look at the angles of the part nearest to the Town Hall. We do not have a museum, so why do we call it a city? God-in-the-Bottle is not a solution Martin’s book launch night. Back row, Left to right: Michael Rodgers, to self-inflicted agony from the night Peter Diamond, Martin Timoney, John Coleman, Front row: Carmel before, and there may be hundreds of Rogers, Nuala Rogers, Eileen Tighe. them; since release we have recently seen a God-out-of-the Bottle here in Pollexfen Quarter at the Western The milestone on Two Mile Hill in Sligo. Wholesale building. Ballyglass says ‘Sligo 2 Dublin’ as We thought we had the products The past landscape is recorded in the Jim Foran points out, but see this issue of the Costello timber workshop all lake muds, studied by a collaboration for more on why. Wendy Lyons details wrapped up; again, since release, we between NUIG and Kiel in Germany, a the architecture of Hazelwood which have been told of the existence of the collaboration that came from a chance is crying out for a lover, perhaps one actual Costello drawings for these meeting of paleobotanists over twenty with some money, but time is not on shopfronts and perhaps they will come years ago at a conference. O’Connell’s its side. in the next publishing of Sligo’s Past. mini-dictionary of paleobotanical The editor, Martin A Timoney, Slim and all as the evidence was, we terms should make reading all is a graduate in Archaeology and do not doubt Eoin Halpin’s proof of paleobotanical articles much easier. Geography of UCG in the late the defences of the town as seen on Traditionally archaeologists have 1960s, and has been involved in Luttrell’s 1689 map, but oh, where is looked to pollen analysis to fill in a the archaeology of Co Sligo since that original map! And where is the few background details for the arrival then, having lived in Knocknarea, French marriage stone that was at the of monument type, but should we not Cliffoney and Keash, and has made Holy Well in the 1910s! be doing the research in a different major voluntary contribution through Most likely it was Collooney man sequence and compose the full picture Sligo Field Club of which he has been William Higgins, not John Dalton, from the continuous record and see a member since 1969. that devised what we know as the where the changes are and then match Publishing Sligo’s Past, Patrick Periodic Table in Chemistry. I like the arrival of monument types? Hurley, Margaret McBrien, Maura John O’Dea’s quote from John People ate their oysters in O’Gara-O’Riordan, Patrick Tuffy, Dalberg-Acton: ‘There is no error so restaurants along Ballisodare, Sligo Derry O’Connell, Dr Nollaig Ó monstrous that it fails to find defenders and Drumcliff Bays in prehistoric Muráile, Mary B Timoney and among the ablest men.’ Joyce Raftery times, only to change to a take-away Martin A Timoney, acknowledges Enright also has a memorable quote style from the early medieval period. the assistance of the Sligo Leader from Yeats’ Autobiographies: “When Nollaig Ó Muraíle proves that our Partnership towards the cost of I was eight or nine an aunt said to Sligo, town and county, got its name printing the book. At Sligo Leader me, ‘You are going to London. Here from those shells, the shelly place was Partnership Ltd Deirdre Kennedy was you are somebody. There you are not from the fossils in the Garvoge, it of great help. nobody.’” But that article should set was from the dumps of shells that we Kiel University and Ballymote many Yeatsian students on the right find under the footpaths in the town Heritage Group and some individuals road. The Yeats Axis runs from the and along the coast that the name were sponsors and there were over Ulster Bank statue to the Middleton- derives. one hundred subscribers. The book printed by Brendan Salmon’s KPS, 83 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014

Knock, Co Mayo, where Mick sixty-eight essays on which to build use this book to promote Sligo as Gallagher was the most efficient further research on this county of is done by Sligo Field Club, under person, comes in hardback at €40 and ours. I thank all these for all their whose aegis this book was begun, softback at €25. It is available from help, dedication, knowledge and and Ballymote Heritage Group. The local shops, Tighe’s, Ward’s, Liber, patience. Hopefully those who have book is a permanent monument to Record Room and Yeats Society, and gone before would have approved of parts of the legacy of Sligo and this is from the Editor. our endeavors! what Publishing Sligo’s Past has done Long may the dedication of authors I do hope that Sligo Leader and will hopefully do again. Your continue! Now we have a stack of Partnership and all Sligo people will dedication will boost our dedication!

Corran Park Committee in 1949

The committee members are listed as follows, but this list is not in the same order as the people appear in the photo. Some members of the committee are not in the picture. The committee was: Very Rev Canon Roughneen PP (President), Rev Denis O’Hara CC, (Vice President), Jack Hoey (Chairman), Bertie Farry (Vice Chairman), Eddie McGettrick and John Barnes (Joint Hon Secretaries), Paddy Cawley (Ld Edward St), Mary K Begley, Pake Begley, Mick Brehony, Owen Brehony, Batty Cawley, Delia Coleman, James Duffy, Paddy Dwyer, Roddy Egan, Tom McGettrick, John Gardiner, Alex Gillmor, Hannon & Co , Michael J Henry, Des Johnson, Thomas Keenan, Michael J Mattimoe, Dick Molloy, Mary E McDonagh, J McGettrick (Ld Edward St), JMcManus, Tom Quigley, Gerry Regan, Martin McGettrick, Paddy Rogers, Tom Scully, Denis Tighe, P J Rogers ( Emlaghfad), P J Rogers TD, P Wims, George Woodland, Michael F Regan.

The exhortations of the balladeer, MF Regan bore fruit on 1 May 1949 when over 6,000 people attended the official opening of Corran Park to see Louth defeat Mayo. On June 5 of the same year over 16,000 spectators were in Corran Park for the Connacht Senior Football Championship match between Roscommon and Mayo, surely the highest attendance at any sporting event in the history of Ballymote. Photograph courtesy Mary Cawley and Neal Farry.

84 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 The Origins of Strandhill as a Seaside Resort

John C McTernan

The recent demise in Sligo of Robin John Tarrant, to open negotiations on Murrow recalls his family’s major role its acquisition and whatever land was in the development of Strandhill as a necessary. popular seaside resort. Over a century Over the following three years there ago the area between the upper road were little or no developments apart and the seashore was partially covered from the fact that Murrow made it by blowing sand, and uninhabited. known that he was willing to assign In 1895 Benjamin Murrow, Robin’s his interest in the road on being grandfather, a native of Belfast and a reasonably compensated. In 1927 the lawyer’s clerk in the firm of Messrs local ratepayers submitted a memorial Fenton & Lyons, purchased what was to Sligo Co Council stating that the then the Allen estate for £1,760. public use of Buenos Ayres Drive was After coming into possession essential for the welfare of the people Murrow proceeded to develop of Strandhill as a whole, and for those his newly-acquired property by Benjamin Murrow residing on the sea road in particular, constructing a thoroughfare joining and the compulsory acquisition of the upper road to the seashore. The factor in that development occurred the road was strongly advocated. new road, which is reputed to have in 1920 with the siting there of St Eventually, a year later in 1928, a cost £1,000 to make, he named Patrick’s church on a plot donated by deputation from the Council met with Buenos Ayres Drive. In 1920 he Murrow. Benjamin Murrow and made an offer built himself an imposing two-storey At that stage it became obvious of £150 on the condition that the public marine residence close to the upper that it would only be a matter of were entitled to unrestricted right-of- entrance to the road and named it time before the new road would pass way over Buenos Ayres Drive and Buenos Ayres. from private into public ownership. also the adjoining foreshore. Further With the roadway in place Murrow Benjamin Murrow favoured such negotiations followed and eventually offered plots for sale to potential a move provided that he was Murrow agreed to accept the offer of developers on either side of the adequately compensated. The local £150. In May 1928 Tarrant was in a thoroughfare, subject to an annual residents, especially those who had position to inform the Council that the rent. In an effort to encourage purchased plots along the road, were conveyance of Buenos Ayres Drive developments on or close to the shore also in favour and availed of every had been completed. he offered sites at a cheaper rate. In all opportunity in pushing their case. At On Benjamin Murrow’s death cases he retained a three-foot strip of a meeting of Sligo Co Council in May in 1936 there still remained an land between the individual plots and 1922 the following memorial from the unresolved matter relating to a plot the roadway. Strandhill ratepayers was read: of land between the end of the road In 1912, in an effort to attract ‘We, the undersignerd, being and the seashore. He was succeeded more visitors to Strandhill, he built Ratepayers in the District of by his son, John Stuart Murrow, who a bathhouse on the seafront on a site Knocknarea, respectfully request Sligo approved of the transfer of the strip forty paces to the left of the ‘Big Gun’ Co Council to take over the new road concerned to the Co Council, thus which he had previously purchased leading to the sea at Carrowbunnaun. bringing to a successful conclusion and placed in situ. This new facility The road is now being used by the the long-drawn-out saga of Buenos provided patrons with hot and cold public for attending the new Chapel Ayres Drive. seawater baths in addition to seaweed and also for the accommodation of baths at one shilling per head. Over people getting to the shore. It is also a The subsequent development of the succeeding decades, until it was great convenience for carting wrack.’ Strandhill as a popular seaside resort closed in 1966 and subsequently A month later the county engineer, can be attributed in no small way to demolished, this amenity attracted RJ Kirwan, reported that the road in the foresight and progressive outlook numerous family groups to the question had become a thoroughfare of Benjamin Murrow, who deserves to resort annually. Gradually, the new of considerable importance and was be remembered as the modern founder Strandhill took shape as homes and suitable for taking over by the Council of the ‘pretty watering-place’ at the guesthouses were built on both sides for maintenance. A year later the foot of Knocknarea. of Buenos Ayres Drive. A significant Council instructed their legal adviser, 85 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 Views on the past Submitted by John Coleman

Market Street with RIC Officers outside the RIC barracks, which was later burned down during the ‘Troubles’.

An outing at the gun in Strandhill, early 1930s - the laughing girls with the long coats are Kathleen Benson (later Coleman) on the right and Sheelagh Johnson, who died this year. This picture was taken by Maisie McGovern (nee Benson), who had been given a gift of a box Brownie camera by her parents when she was a boarder in the Ursuline in the early 1930s. 86 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 The Ballymote Gathering photographic exhibition Submitted by Mary Cawley

In March 2013 an exhibition was presented as part of the Ballymote Gathering Festival in the Art Deco Theatre, Ballymote. The exhibition focused on the last century. It featured old photographs of the town covering shop fronts, streetscapes, buildings, people and events. It highlighted the way buildings and the landscape have evolved over the century. Many buildings have changed radically, some have a completely different Back row: Attracta Shiels, Teresa Keaney, Mary Keaney, Helen Duffy function, and some have disappeared. Second from back: Nell Chambers, Imelda Hannon Vera Golden Rosie The photographs of people and Cassidy, May McGettrick, Teasie Shannon, Teresa Cunnane Joan Hannon, ? events recorded and preserved Leydon moments in time. Many of these Third from back: ? Healy, James Duffy, Billy Brown, John James Brehony, photographs were not available to the Stepho Benton, Michael Scully, Sean Healy, Fintan Molloy, Michael Keany public before, and they evoked many Front row: Paddy Cunningham, Willie Reynolds, Des Rogers, ?, Phil Rogers, shared memories of different people ?, Jimmy Finn from the town and its surrounds. The exhibition brought together a rich store of historic Ballymote Fair day in Ballymote photographs. We are indebted to many people who provided photographs. Batty Cawley was an important prolific photographer of people and places in the Ballymote area. We record our thanks to his family for allowing us access to his archives. We are indebted also to the following people: Alfie Banks, Mattie Casey, Gerry and Esther Cassidy, Molly Cawley, Paul Coen, John Coleman, Achonry Co Op, 1968 Corran College, Derek Davey, Evelyn Davey Paraic Doddy, Catherine English,Neil Farry, Joan Finn, Joseph Flanagan, Francis Flannery, Mary Gilhawley, Gladys Hannon, Shirley Hannon, Neil Henry, John Hannon, Keenan Johnson, Doreen Lavin, Tommy Lavin, Martin McGettrick, Monica McGrath, Richard Molloy, Colm Mullarkey, Carmel Mullen, Scoil Mhuire gan Smal, St Mary’s Secondary School, Eileen Tighe.

87 Teresa Kielty and Mick Gildea

Boys’ National School, 1960 Back row: Derek Davy, Paddy Hannon, Michael Rafferty, Jim Hannon, Michael Hever, Michael Healy, Raymond McAndrew Middle row: Paddy McNulty, Donald , Joseph McGettrick, Pat O’Harte, Austin Prior, Tom McNulty, James Flanagan, George Brennan, Damien Tansey Raymond Galvin, John McArdle Front row: Michael McGettrick, Joseph Donegan, Vincent Finn, Tommy Duffy Kieran McNulty, Michael Duffy, Billy Brady, Jimmy Coen

Kitty Cawley, winner of the County ICA Federation Fish Cookery Competition organised by Bord Iascaigh Mhara, 1970

Keany, Brendan Benton, Padraig Brehony, Michael Finan, Michael Hannon Second row from back: Ann McGettrick, ? Jim Sreenan, Thomas Healy, John McAndrew, Bernard Tansey, Michael Confirmation 1949 Murtagh, Bernie Murtagh, Martin McDonagh, Mary Connell. Back row: Margaret Dwyer, Rosie Healy, Mary Hoey, Mary Third row from back: Cyril Hogge, Leonard Scully, Mary McFadden Nuala Shannon, Kitty Healy, Maura Browne. Scully, Ann McDermot, ? Leydon, Sadie Cunnane, Richard Middle row: Betty Tighe, Dympna Mc Govern, Eileen Molloy. Shreenan, Cait Nolan, Florrie Cassidy Teresa Gormley, Rosie Front row: Paul Galvin, Mattie Brady, Michael Rogers, John Hoey, Mary Duffy Rosie Rogers, Patricia Begley Margaret Rogers. Molloy, Gertrude Scully, Mary Finan, Eileen Healy, Peggy Hannon Front row: ? Brady, Kitty Brady, Helen Tighe, Rita Brehony, Rosaleen Leyden, Dora Tighe, Nancy Cassidy, Florrie Hannon, Mary Shiels, Patsy Browne

88 Healy School Of Dancing, 1968

Round Tower at Carrownanty, Ballymote, which crumbled in 1947 Ballymote Primary School at Liturgical Festival Ballaghadereen 1950s

Richard McBrien, Tony Henry, Eamon Scanlon, Dennis McBrien, Tom Henry

Dance in Loftus Hall New Year’s Day 1958

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Ballymote Boys National School class group 1959 . Submitted by Derek Davy Back row: Ivan Pettipiece, Sean Donegan, Tommie Duffy, Joseph Donegan, Michael Duffy, Brian Meehan, Vincent Finn. Second row from back: L-R Chris Reid, N.T., Sean Hunt, Vincent Brehony, John Mc Donagh, Sean Duffy, Patrick Chambers, Damian Tansey, Raymond McAndrew, Jim Hannon. Third row from back: Derek Davey, Austin Prior, David Corr (Hidden), Jim Donaghue, Paddy Hannon, Peter Golden. Front row: Francis Donaghue, Michael Healy, Derek Droughton

Photo of Achonry Co-Op staff taken in 1968 on the occasion of the Charlie Finan having worked there for 50 years. Charlie was assistant manager. Seated, front row: Mr and Mrs Charlie Finan, Tim O’Mahony (manager) Second row: Carmel Davey, Margaret Brennan, John Gannon, Paddy Boland, Harry McGovern, Jim Brett, Peter Brennan, Hughlie Brennan. Third row: Jim O’Mahony, Doreen Brett, Walter Kivlehan, Dominic Roddy, Peter Murtagh, Charlie Wimms, Ted Ross, Peter Brennan, Johnny Brennan, Jimmy Durkin, Paddy Coleman(hidden), Paddy Redican, Ollie Brett, John Dunleavy(behind), Johnny Brennan. Fourth row: Annie-May Brennan, Paud O’Donnell, Kathleen Kivlehan, Sean Hunt, Dennis McDonagh, Seamus Henry, Nathy Wimms and Roger Wynne sitting on window. Photo submitted by Carmel Rogers. 90 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014 First Holy Communion Classes 2013

Knockminna First Holy Communion, 2013. Back row: Mr Henry (class teacher), Fr James Mc Donagh, Mrs King (Principal) Front row: Brendan Hailstones (altar server), Darragh Brehony, Sarah Cassidy, John Kerins, Evan Cunnane, Malachi Drew, Katelyn Beirne, Oisin Brennan, Aaron Brennan (altar server).

First Holy Communion Class 2013, Scoil Mhuire gan SmaI, Ballymote Back row: Michael Lavin, Laura McGee, Mark Scanlon, Chloe Fahey, Felim Finn, Julia Rychta, Shane Rafferty 3rd row: Emmet Finan, Jakub Kasperek, Aine O’Connor, Darragh Phillips, Rebecca Healy, Dylan Anderson, Maxine Ward. 2nd row: Klaudia Klaman, Scott Lumsden, Kacey Glavin, Mark Tighe, Ashlee McLoughlin, Michael Ward, Danielle Martin, Diarmuid Keenan. Front row: Emily Loughlin, Owen Egan, Caoimhe Moffatt, Cian Cunnane Cantwell, Chloe Hever. Also included in photograph: Fr James McDonagh, Fr Gregory Hannan, Ms Dolores Taheny and Mrs McGetrick

91 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2013/2014

Ballymote Heritage Group Patrons: Eamon Barnes Most Rev. Dr. T. Flynn, Retired Bishop of Achonry

Officers President Eileen Tighe Chairperson & PRO John Coleman M. Litt., FRSA Vice-Chairperson Carmel Rogers Secretary Pam Benson Joint Treasurers Pam Benson and Mary Martin Editor of The Corran Herald Stephen Flanagan

Members: Desmond Black, Mary Black, Olive Byrne, David Casey, Gerry Cassidy, Paddy Conboy, Betty Conlon, John Conlon, Derek Davey, Owen Duffy, Anne Flanagan, Brenda Friel, Noreen Friel, Ursula Gilhawley, Paddy Horan, Anne Henry, Neil Henry, Gerry Keaney, Tom Lavin, Jack Martin, John Perry T.D., Marie Perry, Nuala Rogers, Michael Rogers.

Special thanks to John Coleman and Anne Henry for their assistance with this issue of the Corran Herald. Sponsors

Casey’s Pharmacy

Currid’s Pharmacy

Elizabeth Gilhawley

Jack Martin

Michael & Carmel Rogers

Tighe’s Newsagents

Tente Ltd.

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