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UvA-DARE (Digital Academic Repository) Lipstick tales Beauty and precarity in a southern Philippine boomtown Taqueban, E.M. Publication date 2018 Document Version Other version License Other Link to publication Citation for published version (APA): Taqueban, E. M. (2018). Lipstick tales: Beauty and precarity in a southern Philippine boomtown. General rights It is not permitted to download or to forward/distribute the text or part of it without the consent of the author(s) and/or copyright holder(s), other than for strictly personal, individual use, unless the work is under an open content license (like Creative Commons). Disclaimer/Complaints regulations If you believe that digital publication of certain material infringes any of your rights or (privacy) interests, please let the Library know, stating your reasons. In case of a legitimate complaint, the Library will make the material inaccessible and/or remove it from the website. Please Ask the Library: https://uba.uva.nl/en/contact, or a letter to: Library of the University of Amsterdam, Secretariat, Singel 425, 1012 WP Amsterdam, The Netherlands. You will be contacted as soon as possible. UvA-DARE is a service provided by the library of the University of Amsterdam (https://dare.uva.nl) Download date:01 Oct 2021 Notes 1 Jeepneys are said to be made from U.S. military jeeps left in the Philippines after World War II. Inexpensive and re-outfitted for mass transportation, they have become the most popular means of public transportation in the Philippines. 2 Dictator Ferdinand Marcos coined the term “New Society” for his envisioned industrialized Philippines. President Fidel Ramos’ plan to make the country a “tiger economy” had as its slogan “Philippines 2000.” Cagayan de Oro’s development rhetoric envisions the city’s transformation into an expanded metropolis in northern Mindanao. 3 Etcoff (1999) further proposes that advertising then reinforces this desired female body and defines it as beauty—with the promise that these attributes can be manipulated through the use of cosmetics, plastic surgery and fashion. 4 According to Hunter, the Philippines is “a good example of the intersection of internalized colonial values and the cult of the new global beauty” (2007: 247) Like many other former European and American colonies, contemporary culture in the Philippines places American culture and white beauty on a pedestal. Hunter cites the influence of multinational media exporting American culture including images of race that depict the “good life,” “white beauty,” “white affluence” and “white heroes” (2007: 247). People’s desire for the good life translates to privileging the American (Anglo) aesthetic. 5 The title of Datu signifies that one is a ruler. In Philippine historical accounts it would be the equivalent of a chieftain, a prince, or a sovereign. It also denotes royalty. The title continues to be used by various indigenous peoples and Muslim groups in the Visayas and Mindanao islands. In the contemporary Bisayan language, datu translates to “rich.” 6 For example, women were babaylans, priestesses and animists regarded with respect and who wielded great influence in their communities. 7 Thompson (2013) explores depictions of feminine beauty found in illustrated books of the island acquisitions of the United States, namely Cuba, Hawai`i, Philippines and Puerto Rico. One of his primary sources is the then popular 167 NOTES multivolume work, Our Islands and Their People, edited by William S. Bryan, published in 1899 and reprinted in 1902. The volumes featured photographs and descriptions of the Philippines and Filipinos. Thomson writes: “The photographic images and textual descriptions often focused upon the women of the islands. Indeed, the portrayal of women, in particular their relative attractiveness, was a principal metaphor for describing the islands. Women became photographic objects, which stood for the islands and their comparative features. When these metaphorical images were inserted into narratives of the past, present, and future of the islands they served to devise and justify particular strategies of government” (2013: 5). 8 According to historian Ambeth Ocampo (2017), the US colonial government organized the Manila Carnival to attract foreign tourists and to showcase various provinces and their agricultural products and crafts. One election for the carnival queen resulted in a tie, prompting the National Assembly to resolve the vote. They voted for one Limjap, “a graduate of Assumption College High School. She took up painting under Fabian de la Rosa and music under Ventura Galvez, played tennis, and was interested in fencing. Coming from a de buena familia (wealthy family), she had ‘travelled through Europe accompanied only by a French governess’” (2007: para. 8). 9 In the heyday of print media in the Philippines, Marquez (1975) found advertisements reflected western rather than local culture. 10 Euromonitor (2013) reports local clothing manufacturer Penshoppe has tapped American, British and Thai celebrities popular among young Filipinos to endorse their clothing lines. Competing local manufacturer Bench tapped “half- Filipino” celebrities Bruno Mars and Jessica Sanchez, the American Maroon 5 vocalist Adam Levine, and South Korean heartthrob Lee Min Ho to come to the Philippines dressed in its clothing line. 11 During fiesta celebrations, each locality will have its own beauty pageant, a competition among young women, gay men and women, transgenders, the elderly, and others. Each locality has its own beauty queen who reigns for one year. The practice has led some to comment on the “Philippines’ unhealthy obsession with beauty” (Dancel 2016). The pageants are increasingly framed as entertaining parodies—a tragicomedy in the “failure” of the contestants to attain authentic beauty. 12 Economic protectionism and import-substitution policies were in place until the 1970s. 13 Temporary workers comprise the largest group among these migrants. The annual total number of migrants grew from 50,000 in 1975 to more than a million in 2005, increasing by an average of 9.8% per year between 1975 and 2007 (Orbeta and Abrigo 2009: 2). 14 Bourdieu differentiates between symbolic and physical violence, and shows how members of the French middle class differentiated themselves from the 168 working class through their lifestyles and material possessions, attributing to them meanings of moral ascendency. Elsewhere, Bourdieu (2001: 39) notes that women’s increasing education and political participation still cannot supplant barriers against women as symbolic violence maintains male domination. 15 I have changed their names in the course of the writing and in some cases details have been altered or removed to protect their identities. 16The Cities and Municipalities Competitiveness Index is an annual ranking of Philippine cities and municipalities developed by the National Competitiveness Council through Regional Competitiveness Committees. The ranking is funded by the United States Agency for International Development. 17 Young people are over-represented in migration. This is due to the “positive net expected return on migration due to their longer remaining life expectancy, or because social norms require that young adults migrate in search of a better life.” Families often send their young members to the city and invest in “a potentially remitting child” as part of their survival strategy (Lall et al. 2006: 4). 18 “Bed space” refers to renting a bed in someone’s house, usually in an informal settlement. Similar to dormitories, this is the living arrangement for most migrant workers in the city. 19 The dropout rate increases as they reach college. Less than one in five youth in the Philippines are enrolled in tertiary education (Puyat 2005: 197). 20 The Social Weather Stations’ definition of unemployment covers persons aged 18 and above who are “without a job at present and looking for a job.” This excludes those not looking for work such as housewives, students and retired or disabled persons. This differs from the Department of Labor and Employment’s definition in the Labor Force Survey, which covers persons 15 years and above who are not working but are looking and available for work. 21 The report was based on the Global Gender Gap Index 2016 by the World Economic Forum. 22 According to the World Economic Forum Global Gender Gap Index, Filipinas rank third in Asia and seventeenth in the world in terms of gender equality, political empowerment, health and survival, economic participation and opportunity. Nevertheless, the Asian Development Bank (2013) report on women’s participation in labor states: “although the Philippines was one of the first countries in Asia to grant suffrage to women, and despite the fact that its constitution legislatively affirms women’s equality with men, the intended positive effects for women have not materialized as planned.” Women’s lower participation in the labor market is attributed to “inadequate employment and decent work opportunities, domestic labor and care constraints, and social norms.” This often leads to women having lower quality or vulnerable employment (2013: 13). 23 Critics argue that the law keeps wages low by granting the Labor Secretary 169 NOTES jurisdiction over labor disputes deemed harmful to the national interest, including strikes over non-compliance with minimum wage requirements. 24 In China, managers in high-end retail stores rely on “gendered meanings to distinguish their workers from the women who work in other,