Horn I. k POLICE MURALAG 12 Cape York

Prince of Wales I. Legend Golden Shouldered Parrot Seisia Lockerbie Scrub rainforest 13 Newcastle Bay Umagico New Mapoon Roads Tenure This specialist is endangered minor National Park and found nowhere else. Once wide- 7 Ak POLICE major Mining Lease spread across the southern Peninsula, the JACKY JACKY CK sealed Golden-shouldered Parrot is now only Fuel available found in two small areas. They nest in Photo: Scott Templeton YADHAIGANA Camping with facilities. termite mounds in the savanna country. Old Telegraph Track (Many bush camping areas also exist.) JARDINE Lotus Bird Lodge takes birdwatchers k Hospital or medical A Airport Bamaga Rd to see them on places such as Artemis 9 Number of business. station near Musgrave. (Corresponds with text and contact details on the back of this map.) National Park RS Ranger station. (Named except where name corresponds with National Park.) Cuscus Eliot/Twin Falls TRIBAL OR LANGUAGE OR CLAN GROUP (Ampuyu*) YADHAIGANA ANGGAMUDI Fruit Bat Falls (e.g. ) Bam Old Telegraph Track Tribal or language or nation groups, as reported by Horton (2000) This strange and beautiful nocturnal aga R with some additional local knowlege. The Horton (2000) map covered d Captain Billy’s Landing possum is a rainforest specialist, found all of and was the result of six years research by the Australian Heathlands Resource Institute of Aboriginal and Torres Islander Studies. The map is general only in and Cape York

Reserve and only depicts larger groups, within which clans and local dialects Peninsula. You might see one on the Photo: Lochman Transparancies may exist or have existed. in Kaanju lands or in Special Places Heathlands RS Iron Range. Special places on DULHUNTY RIVER. Shelburne Bay Map data: Geoscience Australia, Department of Natural Resources and Water, Shelburne Bay dunefi eld Mapoon Austrlian Institute of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Studies, Google Earth and research by The Wilderness Society. Bramwell Junction 9 The Wilderness Society would like to thank Russell Boswell, Anna TJUNGUNDJ TEPATHIGGI (Owinhay**) MPALITJANH Demant, Pamela Harmon-Price, Yvonne Kirk, Brad McCarthy, Peter O’Reilly and Birte Zurhold for their assistance in the preperation YUPANGATHI of this map. The giant saltwater croc, a great draw Fuel and camping symbols © Parks and Wildlife Service for international visitors, can be found

Wenlock River gallery rainforest Temple Bay in all of the larger and estuaries on the Cape, as well as on the coasts. ANGUTHIMRI WENLOCK RIVER Moreton Photo: Kerry Trapnell

MISSION RIVER YINWUM 11 KUUKU-YA’U Portland Roads Albatross Bay Chilli Beach POLICE LUTHIGH Iron Range Napranum Ak AWNGTHIM National Park Palm Cockatoo Mount Tozer 543 A Iron Range rainforest Lockhart River 2 k POLICE (Kila*) Cape Direction This magnifi cent bird is the largest KANTHANUMPU MBEIWUM of Australia’s cockatoos. It feeds in LOCKHART RIVER NORTHERN KAANJU rainforests, but nests in the hollows Peninsula Development Rd Mount Carter 665 of eucalypts in the nearby savanna. Photo: Clifford and Dawn Frith You have a good chance of seeing WINDA WINDA Chuulangun WATSON RIVER 1 them on Kaanju lands, the Iron Range or near the tip. Wenlock River gallery rainforest

Aurukun A POLICE Cape Sidmouth 5 Archer River Northern Quoll Mungkan Kaanju National Park (Ching’ka*) Once found across the Peninsula these carnivorous marsupials are now sadly SOUTHERN KAANJU rare, as large numbers have been Rokeby RS poisoned by cane toads. Photo: Lochman Transparan cies WIK A Mount Croll 486

Cape Keer- Weer Aurukun KUUKU-YANI Coen POLICE McLwraith Range rainforest 14 * These are the names for these animals from Kaanju country. Port Stewart ** These are the names for these animals in Uw Oykangand Cape Melville and Uw Olkola language. STEWART RIVER and WIK Cape Melville They will have different names on other parts of Cape York.

UMBINDHAMU

Pen insula Developmen Cape Melville National Park MUTUMUI

t Rd LAMALAMA

BAKANH

THAAYORRE Lakefi eld Lagoons and savanna 3

NORMANBY RIVER Musgrave MOREHEAD RIVER

Pompuraaw Jack River Kalpowar National Park Cape Flattery POLICE Starcke National Park 10 COLEMAN RIVER JACK RIVER Golden-shouldered Parrot savanna

NORTH KENNEDY RIVER GUUGU-YIMIDHIRR Melsonby Lakefi eld YIR YORONT Hann River National Park National Park Cape Bedford Hope Vale KOKOWARRA POLICE

LAURA RIVER Mitchell and Alice Rivers A Kowanyama Cooktown National Park POLICE POLICE KOKO-BERA A 6 Laura KUNJEN Endeavour River 4 POLICE Quinkan rock art National Park MITCHELL RIVER KUKU- YALANJI 8 KOKOMINI Lakeland coasts of the western Peninsula. www.capeyorkturtlerescue.com help protect threatened marineturtles onthe magnificent remote A world renowned adventure andconservation project where visitors 9. MapoonTurtle Rescue Camp isreopening in2007. www.jowalbinna.com.au This isanincredible place withthereal spiritof Cape York. The Safari galleries. Camping, cabins, guidedtours, swimming. 35 kmfrom Laura. The most accessible rock in Cape art York, of part theQuinkan 8. Jowalbinna Rock Safari Art Camp www.capeyorkadventures.com.au fishingorpureSports adventure trips to sites suchas turtle rookeries. 7. JohnCharlton Cape York Adventures eastern corner of thePeninsula. www.guurrbitours.com tours, willgive you amemorable andinsightful experience inthesouth Nugal-warra ElderWillie Gordon, wholeads rock andbushmedicine art 6. GuurrbiTours www.aurukunfishingcharters.com www.aurukunwetlandcharters.com culture. ancient their and people Wik the from insight and a uniqueexperience of anuntouched natural world, withinterpretation owners of thearea. OntheWetland Charters, jointhetour guides for enormous advantage of theskillsandknowledge of thetraditional On theFishingCharters, fishwiththe andbenefitexperts from the 5. Aurukun FishingCharters andAurukun Charters www.quinkancc.com.au saw University award himanHonorary Doctorate. George, whose contributions to linguistic andcultural research There are tours to thegalleries withKuku Thaypan elderDrTommy indigenous people, pastoralists andtheEuropean andChinese miners. Theon earth. interpretive centre inLaura describes thehistory of the sites intheworld. UNESCO listed themasoneof thetop 10rock sites art The Quinkan galleries are amongtheoldest andmost spectacular rock art 4. Quinkan Regional Cultural Centre magpie geese, egrets andother waterbirds. www.lotusbird.com.au cabins, nestled amongthepaperbarks, overlook alagoonteeming with Well known amongAustralian andinternational birdwatchers, these 3. Lotus Bird Lodge them shippedhome. www.artgang.com.au can buypaintings direct from thegalleryinLockhart River andhave Gang.TheirLockhart Art work issold ingalleries Australia wide. You Lockhart River ishometo arenowned collective known asthe Gang 2. Lockhart Art www.kaanjungaachi.com.au Cuscus andPalm Cockatoos can befound here by theWenlock River. first IndigenousProtected Area would protect 470 000hectares. his country as“ancient butnew”. The Kaanju proposal for Cape York’s Kaanju traditional owner David Claudiedescribes hisway of caring for 1. Chuulanguncampgrounds the following experiences. Cape York Peninsula. Onyour visit, make sure you lookfor that reveal thepriceless anddiverse nature andculture of There are anumberof businesses andcommunity enterprises Economy A Conservation

Savanna Guides Master Operator. www.wilderness-challenge.com.au overland, drive/fly and drive/cruise. Advanced Ecocertification and 4WD camping andaccommodated safaris from 7-14 days includingall Wilderness Challenge www.tkrp.com.au indigenous water knowledge isrecommended viewing before you visit. from Cape York. Documentaries suchas“Water We Know” about The TKRPoffice is based in , buttheir work andknowledge is Traditional Knowledge Revival Pathways ending atthetipof Australia. www.coralprincess.com.au of Cape York Peninsula through theturquoise waters of theCoral Sea This smallcruise shiptakes anincredible journey upthewildeast coast Coral Princess Cruises www.coencapeyork.com and craft for sale andphotographic displays onthelocal history. Named for themountain thatstands over thetown, thiscentre hasart 14. Wunthulpu Cultural Centre, Coen www.capeyorkcustomsportfishing.com.au welcome, we catch-take fullysupport aphoto-and release fishing.” Lesley’s motto is“fish for thefuture” andwhileafish fordinner is Fishing intheestuaries andcoasts of thefar “Tim, Garyand north. 13. Wrights Wilderness Safaris Thursday Island.www.punsand.com.au over theArafura Sea intheIndianOcean. There isaferry from here to You can watch thesunrise over theCoral Sea inthePacific and set Punsand Bay Camping Resort is5kmwest of thetipof Cape York. 12. Punsand Bay Lodge for thefuture.” www.portlandhouse.com.au The intention isto foster appreciation andconservation of thearea “Cape York isoneof thelast great wilderness areas ontheplanet. nature’s magnificence.” sit ontheverandah overlooking theCoral Sea andmarvel at Holiday homeaccommodation near theIron Range NP. “You can 11. Portland House www.pormpuraaw.qld.gov.au culturalsupporting obligationsof thelocal people. the crocodile orbrolga. Artwork isfor sale, proceeds of whichgoto Many artworks here are of totems of particular local families, suchas 10. Pormpuraaw andCulture Arts Centre Licuala Palms, Hunter Creek -Kerry Trapnell

Travel Map capeHow to experience Cape York’s specialplaces. yorkpeninsula

Palm Cockatoo - Clifford and Dawn Frith Cape York’s special places Spectacular Dunefields and Pristine Beaches – Cape York is fringed rivers and grows along their banks in narrow corridors that stretch well by 1800 kilometres of wilderness coastline. The most pristine section of into the drier savanna. the lies off the Cape’s east coast, with seagrass beds Cape York was connected to New Guinea as recently as 10 000 years that support one of the world’s largest populations. Captain ago, so the two places share many rainforest animals, such as the Billy’s Landing and Chili Beach are both special places on this coast. cuscus, Palm Cockatoo and two species of birds-of-paradise. Several At Shelburne Bay there are over 100 square kilometres of sparkling species migrate across Torres Strait between the two countries. The white sand dunes. This magnificent dunefield was saved from sand largest rainforest areas are the remote McIlwraith Range, the Iron mining by a long campaign by the Wuthathi people, The Wilderness Range and the Lockerbie Scrub, and you will see gallery rainforests Society and other green groups. lining some of the major rivers. – Recent research by the Australian National University Wild Rivers and Wetlands – Cape York is home to 21 wild rivers; no found that northern Australia has the largest area of intact tropical weirs, dams, or irrigation diversions. In a monsoonal land with a long to Cape York Peninsula, one of the savanna left in the world. Savannas once stretched across Africa, Asia, dry, these wild rivers and the lagoons they feed are the lifeblood for last great wild places on earth. India and South America, but large areas have been destroyed. This many of Cape York’s plants and animals. Welcome iconic country, dry, open and dotted with termite mounds, covers three You will cross the upper reaches of several great wild rivers on quarters of Cape York Peninsula, and you will see many savanna types your trek up Cape York Peninsula. The mighty Wenlock is lined by along Peninsula Road. There are many savanna specialist animals, gallery rainforest with cuscus and Palm Cockatoos and you may see including the Golden-shouldered Parrot and native finches. The rainbowfish in the clear water. A worldwide study by Conservation International identified Cape York, along with places such as the Amazon and Savanas of Cape York were threatened by landclearing until protected by the in 2004. Birdwatchers visit lagoons at Lotus Bird Lodge and in the nearby the Serengeti, as one of the wildest tropical environments left on the planet. Lakefield NP to see the great diversity of waterbirds. On the west Rainforests – Cape York is home to Australia’s largest area of old- coast, several wild rivers feed the largest wilderness wetlands in Cape York is 14 million hectares of savanna country and rainforest, with wild rivers that feed vast wetlands and growth tropical rainforest. Most of the rainforest is in the east, but Australia – seven times the size of Kakadu’s. They teem with fish, . The climate is monsoonal, with torrential rains and cyclones from December to March, followed by a a special type (called “gallery rainforest”) is nourished by the larger freshwater turtles, and hundreds of thousands of water birds. long dry. Travelling the Cape is a true adventure - the bitumen ends before you reach Laura, and beyond the Weipa turnoff you are in true 4wd country. This map introduces you to the special places to visit, the wildlife to see and the people who can show them to you,

Photography by Kerry Trapnell Kerry by Photography as well as useful tips for travelling the Cape and contact information.

History Welcome to Cape country - Indigenous people have lived on Cape York for many thousands of years. The Quinkan country in the southern cape has rock art that has the traditional owners of Cape York been dated at 30 000 years old. Cape York is the traditional land of a number of groups. Indigenous culture and management is strong and several Australian languages are The first Europeans arrived in 1606, when the Dutch vessel Duyfken still widely spoken, such as Wik Mungkan, Kuku Thaypan, Umpila, Kuku reached the west coast at Cape Keer-Weer. Keer-Weer is Dutch for , Kuku Ya’u and Kaanju. “turn around”. Stories of an altercation between the Dutch and the Wik are still told by local people. Initiatives such as the Kaanju Homelands and Traditional Knowledge Revival Pathways point to an emergence of indigenous ecological The first European land explorer was in the 1840s, knowledge being recorded and practised. and the cattlemen came soon after. Quinkan Rock Art - Photography by Wilderness Challenge David Claudie (left) and Anthony Esposito at Before you go to Cape York Peninsula, read the brochure by the Chuulangun campgrounds - Photography by TWS The gold rushes in the 1870s and 1880s saw an influx of European and Aboriginal Tourism Association called “Welcome to Country”. Chinese miners. Cattlemen and miners engaged in bitter land wars with www.ataust.org.au/pdf/WTC%20Brochure.pdf Useful information indigenous people, with major losses on both sides. However the cattle Police Services Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service industry was ultimately developed by both black and white people, with Protocols for visiting Kaanju country can be found at Aurukun (07) 4060 6120 EPA Customer Service 3227 8185 the indigenous people living and working on many of the stations. www.kaanjungaachi.com.au/ManagementProtocols.htm Archer River Roadhouse 4060 3266 Bamaga 4069 3156 QPWS Cairns Information 4046 6600 The Second World War saw thousands of American and Australian Bamaga BP 4069 3275 Coen 4060 1150 Smart Service (camping 13 13 04 servicemen based on airstrips here for battles with Japanese planes Bramwell Junction bookings and info) over the and New Guinea. Horn Island in Torres Strait was About The Wilderness Society Cooktown 4069 5320 Roadhouse 4060 3230 Coen Ranger Station 4060 1137 attacked eight times. The Wilderness Society is a not for profit conservation group with Hope Vale 4060 9266 members, supporters and volunteers throughout Australia. The Coen: Half Way Cooktown 4069 5777 A big change came for the west coast when bauxite was found in the Kowanyama 4060 5120 Wilderness Society is seeking the long term protection of Cape Service Station 4060 1144 Iron Range NP 4060 7170 1950s. Weipa was established by the Comalco mining company to Laura 4060 3244 York’s wild places through the protection of wild rivers and World service the workers and is the largest settlement north of Cooktown. Coen: Armbrust Store 4060 1134 Jardine River NP 4060 3241 Heritage values. www.wilderness.org.au Lockhart River 4060 7120 Lakefield NP 4060 3271 Cape York Peninsula has been the scene of many debates on Aboriginal Pormpuraaw 4060 4120 Endeavour Falls 4069 5431 land rights and native title as traditional owners have sought the Thursday Island 4069 1520 Tourist Park Alcohol restrictions return to ancestral homelands. The most notable was the Wik decision Weipa 4069 9119 Hann River Roadhouse 4060 3242 It is important to note that laws on the in 1996, which recognised the native title rights of Wik people over Jardine River Roadhouse 4069 1369 type and quantity of alcohol that can be parts of western Cape York under cattle lease. Medical brought into various remote indigenous Lakeland Roadhouse 4060 2166 communities are in place. This is an Today the main land use of Cape York Peninsula is cattle grazing with Bamaga Hospital 4069 3166 early intervention strategy to address large areas set aside for bauxite mining on the west coast. Tourism has Laura Roadhouse 4060 3419 Cooktown Medical Centre 4069 5211 alcohol-related crime and violence in grown steadily. Lockhart River Aboriginal Lockhart River 4060 7192 indigenous communities. There has been a gradual process of state government purchase of Community Hospital 4060 7155 Retail Store www.mcmc.qld.gov.au/community/search/ land for return to traditional owners or conservation since the 1990s. restricted.php Thursday Island Hospital 4069 1109 Mapoon Aboriginal Store 4090 9146 Currently the main land uses are pastoral leases (51%), aboriginal land (23%) and National Parks and Protected Areas (13%). Weipa Hospital 4090 6222 Moreton Telegraph Station 4060 3360 Be Crocwise Royal Flying Doctor Service 4053 1952 Musgrave Roadhouse 4060 3229 Saltwater Crocodiles are dangerous, (RFDS) closest base in Cairns powerful creatures, and it’s wise to take Roadhouse 4060 2020 Coen and many other communities precautions. See the EPA’s have clinics. Seisia BP Service Station 4069 3897 www.epa.qld.gov.au/publications?id=1101