Fall 2006 Gems & Gemology
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G EMS & G VOLUME XLII FALL 2006 EMOLOGY F ALL 2006 P AGES 1–174 Proceedings of the 4th International Gemological Symposium & V OLUME GIA Gemological Research Conference 42 August 2006 • San Diego, California N O. 3 THE QUARTERLY JOURNAL OF THE GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA “Thank you, sponsors” On behalf of the participants of the 2006 INTERNATIONAL GEMOLOGICAL SYMPOSIUM and GEMOLOGICAL RESEARCH CONFERENCE, GIA thanks the following sponsors for their financial support of these events: Jewelers Mutual Insurance Co. Premier Sponsor ($250,000) Monday Debate Centers The Steinmetz Group Instore Magazine GIA's 75th Diamond Anniversary Gala The Daily Navigator Platinum Level ($100,000-$150,000) Bronze Level ($5,000-$10,000) Become a jeweler for a new generation. Dimexon Eurostar, Hearts On Fire Israel Diamond Institute Sunset Soirée Monday Luncheon at the Poster Session and Bottled Water Vicenza Fair Fancy Collection Italian Evening: Speaker Ready Room and Monday Morning Break MOODS, SENSATIONS, DIFFERENTIATIONS “Eighternity” The Soul and Future of Italian Jewelry A Division of K.R. Gems & Diamonds Int'l. JCK Magazine Tuesday Casual Luncheon Full-Day Sponsor, Monday, August 28 H2 Events SAFDICO USA INC Cappuccino Kiosk Full-Day Sponsor, Tuesday, August 29 MVI Marketing Ltd. Charles & Colvard, Ltd. Press Room GIA Gemological Research Conference CIBJO Symposium Highlights on Video Gold Level ($35,000-$75,000) Professional Jeweler ABN Amro Bank/ The VNU Jewelry Group Monday Afternoon Interlude Opening Session with former Secretary of State True Knots By My Way Jewelry Co. Inc. Madeleine K. Albright Hotel Key Cards TJF Group (in collaboration with Vicenza Fair on the Italian Evening) GRC Travel Grant Sponsorships American Gem Society Registration Gift co-Sponsor ($1,000) Swarovski Kazanjian Bros. (multiple sponsorships) Poster Session Dr. Alfred A. Levinson Alice S. Keller “After working in the industry for many years, I wanted the prestigious credential and extra technical knowledge Lou Guarino, G.G. Silver Level ($15,000-$30,000) ESTET that only GIA has to offer. What I learned not only boosted my confidence, but also allowed me to make more President, Louis Anthony Jewelers Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania IJB Jewelers Block Insurance Robert E. Kane and Fine Gems International profitable buying and selling decisions. As a result, my margins increased and my sales went up....Ifeel very Tuesday Debate Centers Massoni Gioielli dal 1790 strongly that GIA education plays an integral part in the success of today’s jewelry retailer. So strongly, in fact, that I encourage my own employees to take advantage of it.” Rapaport Group of Companies Sundance Diamonds Cybercafé Robert Kammerling Fund Get the training and the professional credential you need to increase your earning power in today’s jewelry industry. Now, with GIA’s revolutionary new course materials and more ways to learn, earning your Graduate Gemologist diploma has never been faster or more convenient. Find out just how close you are to belonging to a new generation of successful jewelers. Call today for a free course catalog. 800-421-7250 ext. 4001 or visit www.gia.edu The Robert Mouawad Campus | 5345 Armada Drive Carlsbad, CA 92008 | T: 760-603-4000 | F: 760-603-4003 GGFA06 Proceedings of the 4th International Gemological Symposium (August 27–29) and GIA Gemological Research Conference (August 26–27), San Diego, California 1 Editorial Business and Science Converge at the 2006 Symposium and Gemological Research Conference Kathryn Kimmel and Alice Keller International Gemological symposium Keynote Addresses 2 Opportunities and Danger: The World in 2006 Madeleine K. Albright 7 Transitions and Traditions Maurice Tempelsman 13 Symposium Photomontage 21 Abstracts of Speaker Sessions 23 Diamonds: Mapping the Future 28 Colored Stones: Seizing the Opportunities 32 Identification Technology 38 Cultured Pearls 42 Jewelry: The Changing Landscape 46 Reinventing Your Business 49 Luxury Retailing 54 Changing Tides in Distribution Channels 58 Business Perspectives: Charting the Globe 63 Hot Topic: Consumer Confidence—It’s All About Trust 66 Debate Centers Gemological research conference 79 Co-chair Address James E. Shigley and Brendan Laurs 81 GRC Photomontage Abstracts of Oral Presentations 84 Diamond and Corundum Treatments 87 Gem Characterization Techniques 93 General Gemology 106 Geology of Gem Deposits 111 Laboratory Growth of Gem Materials 112 New Gem Localities 119 Poster Session: A Marketplace of New Ideas 120 Gemological Research Conference 157 International Gemological Symposium 171 Index of presenters i ® EDITORIAL Editor-in-Chief Editor Editors, Lab Notes STAFF Alice S. Keller Brendan M. Laurs Thomas M. Moses [email protected] The Robert Mouawad Campus Shane F. McClure 5345 Armada Drive Managing Editor Carlsbad, CA 92008 Editor, Gem News International Thomas W. Overton (760) 603-4503 Brendan M. Laurs [email protected] [email protected] Technical Editor Editors, Book Reviews Associate Editor Sally Magaña Susan B. Johnson Stuart Overlin [email protected] Jana E. Miyahira-Smith [email protected] Stuart Overlin Consulting Editor Circulation Coordinator Carol M. Stockton Debbie Ortiz Editors, Gemological Abstracts Contributing Editor (760) 603-4000, ext. 7142 Brendan M. Laurs James E. Shigley [email protected] Thomas W. Overton PRODUCTION Art Director Production Assistant Website: STAFF Karen Myers Allison DeLong www.gia.edu EDITORIAL Shigeru Akamatsu A. J. A. (Bram) Janse George Rossman REVIEW BOARD Tokyo, Japan Perth, Australia Pasadena, California Alan T. Collins Alan Jobbins Kenneth Scarratt London, United Kingdom Caterham, United Kingdom Bangkok, Thailand G. Robert Crowningshield Mary L. Johnson James E. Shigley New York, New York San Diego, California Carlsbad, California John Emmett Anthony R. Kampf Christopher P. Smith Brush Prairie, Washington Los Angeles, California New York, New York Emmanuel Fritsch Robert E. Kane Christopher M. Welbourn Nantes, France Helena, Montana Reading, United Kingdom Henry A. Hänni Thomas M. Moses Basel, Switzerland New York, New York SUBSCRIPTIONS Subscriptions to addresses in the U.S. are priced as follows: $74.95 for one year (4 issues), $194.95 for three years (12 issues). Subscriptions sent elsewhere are $85.00 for one year, $225.00 for three years. Canadian subscribers should add GST. Special rates are available for GIA alumni and current GIA students. One year: $64.95 to addresses in the U.S., $75.00 else- where; three years: $179.95 to addresses in the U.S., $210.00 elsewhere. Please have your student or Alumni number ready when ordering. Go to www.gia.edu or contact the Circulation Coordinator. Single copies of this issue may be purchased for $24.95 in the U.S., $29.00 elsewhere. Discounts are given for bulk orders of 10 or more of any one issue. A limited number of back issues are also available for purchase. Please address all inquiries regarding subscriptions and single copy or back issue purchases to the Circulation Coordinator (see above) or visit www.gia.edu. To obtain a Japanese translation of Gems & Gemology, contact GIA Japan, Okachimachi Cy Bldg., 5-15-14 Ueno, Taitoku, Tokyo 110, Japan. Our Canadian goods and service registration number is 126142892RT. MANUSCRIPT Gems & Gemology welcomes the submission of articles on all aspects of the field. Please see the Guidelines for Authors on our SUBMISSIONS Website, or contact the Managing Editor. Letters on articles published in Gems & Gemology are also welcome. Abstracting is permitted with credit to the source. Libraries are permitted to photocopy beyond the limits of U.S. copyright law COPYRIGHT for private use of patrons. Instructors are permitted to photocopy isolated articles for noncommercial classroom use without fee. AND REPRINT Copying of the photographs by any means other than traditional photocopying techniques (Xerox, etc.) is prohibited without the express permission of the photographer (where listed) or author of the article in which the photo appears (where no photographer PERMISSIONS is listed). For other copying, reprint, or republication permission, please contact the Managing Editor. Gems & Gemology is published quarterly by the Gemological Institute of America, a nonprofit educational organization for the gem and jewelry industry, The Robert Mouawad Campus, 5345 Armada Drive, Carlsbad, CA 92008. Postmaster: Return undeliverable copies of Gems & Gemology to The Robert Mouawad Campus, 5345 Armada Drive, Carlsbad, CA 92008. Any opinions expressed in signed articles are understood to be the opinions of the authors and not of the publisher. ABOUT The 4th International Gemological Symposium and GIA Gemological Research Conference presented technical and business THE COVER issues affecting the colored stone, diamond, and pearl industries. Shown here are highlights of the collection of Dr. Edward J. Gübelin, unveiled at GIA’s 75th Anniversary Gala held during Symposium, with a photomicrograph of a diamond octahe- dron under long-wave ultraviolet radiation as a backdrop. Like this cover, the breadth of subjects addressed at Symposium and the GRC underscored the important relationship between gemstones and the science that protects their integrity. Left to right, starting with the top row—13.72 ct South Sea pearl from the Philippines, 6.05 ct and 13.51 ct Mexican fire opals; (row 2)—19.45 ct Egyptian peridot, 13.60 ct Namibian scapolite, 4.10 ct diamond (not part of the Gübelin Collection), 11.18 ct tanzanite; (row 3)—13.85 ct Sri Lankan sapphire, 18.41 ct topaz, 10.92 ct Burmese spinel; (row 4)—5.21 ct South African rhodochrosite, 2.59 ct Paraíba tourmaline from Brazil, 8.51 ct Sri Lankan spinel, 13.00 ct Madagascar sphene; (bottom row)— 9.05 ct Sri Lankan “padparadscha” sapphire, 2.12 ct Paraíba tourmaline from Brazil. Photo of stones © GIA and Harold & Erica Van Pelt; photomicrograph by Christopher M. Breeding. Color separations for Gems & Gemology are by Pacific PreMedia, Carlsbad, California. Printing is by Allen Press, Lawrence, Kansas. © 2006 Gemological Institute of America All rights reserved. ISSN 0016-626X ld friends and new partners. Old challenges and new date on pearl farming in the South Seas, Tahiti, and China.