Gare do , or Orient Station, is a major in the city. Opposite: The Avenida Infante Santo tile installation is the work of Portuguese artist Eduardo Nery.

68 ANTHOLOGYMAG.COM From its rich and thriving tile history to heritage buildings undergoing modern transformations, Lisbon’s past-meets-present mystique has never been more alluring

PASSPORT TO

Text by CHADNER NAVARRO Photographs by MIGUEL MANSO 69 Top row (l-r): Cortiço & Netos is a family-run tile business that dates back to 1976. A façade features vibrant tiles and balconies. Fashion boutique Espaço B offers apparel and accessories. Bottom row (l-r): One of Eduardo Nery’s colorful tile panels. Bites at casual eatery Mini Bar. Azulejos-clad buildings and surfaces are ubiquitous in Lisbon.

“OBSESSING ABOUT Lisbon-based il- That we’re having this conversation at Mini Bar THE PAST IS PART OF lustrator and graphic is appropriate. Its dining room is an homage to THE PORTUGUESE DNA,” designer Cristiana the heritage building that houses it: a 19th-century Couceiro (who has theatre. The menu is divided into “acts,” and some worked with Nike and The New Yorker, among many) of the light fixtures are the same as what you would tells me over dinner at Mini Bar, one of the city’s find in an actor’s dressing room. But the menu restaurants du jour. “Any walk down Lisbon’s is playful and forward thinking. There’s a clever streets can tell you that. The past is everywhere, take on a Ferrero Rocher bonbon, which is spiked side by side with the present and the future,” she with a creamy foie gras center. And the Algarve adds. The same can be applied to her work. Her prawn ceviche served atop half a lime and flavored creativity is often inspired by tchotchkes she finds with chopped chili and peanuts is an explosion of in flea markets; among her favorites are old photo- flavor, and by my estimation, one of the most deli- graphs, with which she creates collages. cious dishes on offer in Lisbon right now.

70 ANTHOLOGYMAG.COM Top row (l-r): Trams have operated in Lisbon since the early 1900s. Memmo Hotel’s rooftop terrace. Blue and yellow has been a popular tile color combination in Portugal for centuries. Bottom row (l-r): Chef José Avillez at Belcanto; he also runs Mini Bar. The National Pantheon of Santa Engrácia. Mercado da Ribeira includes shops and restaurants.

But while old-meets-new is a marketing ploy for old towers, some of which are in terrifying dis- some, it’s a way of life in the Portuguese capital, repair. This is one of the things I find incredibly which is in the middle of a transformation as it charming about Lisbon: There doesn’t seem to be tries to crawl out of a debilitating financial crisis. any great hurry to clean things up, to make things The downtown area, called Baixa, forms Lisbon’s more contemporary. Walking around or cultural and historic nucleus. During this trip, I nearby , the city looks, smells, and feels stayed in an adjacent district, Alfama, at the two- old. But you only have to walk through one of its year-old Memmo Alfama hotel. The renovated doors to realize that innovative operations (even if 1800s building (where some sitting rooms were they are informed by the past) are all around you. previously brick ovens) is perched above the city, A picturesque, if crowded, ride on tram 15 so its rooftop lounges offer great vistas of red-tiled gets you to LxFactory, a group of abandoned roofs and the Tagus River. You can see that there 19th-century textile warehouses under a bridge are no modern skyscrapers here; only centuries- in Alcântara. In 2008, it was transformed into a

71 Above, left to right: Sofia Landeau of Landeau, which is known for its chocolate cake. Ler Devagar—which translates to “read slowly”—is a hybrid bookstore, art gallery, and café.

mixed-purpose venue that now makes up Lisbon’s and meat stews and grilled seafood like tuna and creative core. Artists, designers, musicians, and octopus. Satisfy your sweet tooth with Sofia Lan- gourmands converge to create a bustling, contem- deau’s just-rich-enough chocolate cakes, and then porary mini city. Spend a whole day here, mean- end the evening at Casa de Morna for Cape Ver- dering from one industrial-chic space to another. dean cuisine and fabulous fado, that melancholic Visit one of the most beautiful bookstores in the music that’s all about looking back at the past. world at Ler Devagar, which has floor-to-double- Azulejos, the stunning tiles brought to Portugal by the Moors in the 15th century that continue to adorn countless build- Artists, designers, musicians, and ings all over the country, are a great gourmands converge to create a bustling, way to see Portuguese art for free. (Imagine if Caravaggio paintings contemporary mini city. were publicly displayed in every town in Italy.) The 19th-century building height-ceiling shelves of books and a flying bike as at Campo de by the National Pantheon a centerpiece. Grab lunch at Cantina, which used is one of the most stunning examples. A baroque- to serve traditional Portuguese grub to factory inspired façade decorated in tiles of bright blues workers in the 1800s. Today, the wood-fire oven and yellows with the occasional illustration of a is the restaurant’s main attraction alongside an noble bust have made this private residence one of international menu of fortifying dishes like bean Lisbon’s most photographed.

72 ANTHOLOGYMAG.COM “Tiles have always been relevant in Portugal’s material culture, especially as an architectural decorative element,” says João Cortiço, one of four brothers who inherited their grandfather’s tile business, Cortiço & Netos. The family’s shop in the historic Mouraria district is packed with hundreds of tile patterns—some are unusual geometric designs while others are typical florals or baroque iconogra- phy—that date as far back as the turn of the century. These were sourced from Portuguese factories that have since closed as tiles started to develop a kitschy and undesirable reputation among locals. But a recent renaissance for all things made-in-Portugal has made tiles all the rage again. “Interior designers, architects [and artists] now use tiles as a way to communicate [Portuguese] authenticity and heritage,” João remarks. He and his brothers are perfectly positioned as both a destina- tion and a resource. In addition to the inventory at their shop, there are upwards of 2,000 other pat- terns in storage. Lisbon-based creative studio Pedrita used tile scraps from Cortiço & Netos to create a large-scale duck installation in Belém, entitled Pato Mundo. It’s just one of many ways that tiles are being interpreted Above, top to bottom: The Museu do Design e da Moda, within the capital’s contemporary arts community. or MUDE, focuses on design and fashion. A Vida More unusual still is artist Diogo Machado’s azulejos Portuguesa specializes in domestic products, some by old Portuguese brands. street art. Using trompe l’oeil techniques, his sten- ciled tiles look so three dimensional that you can easily mistake them for real tiles. They’re scattered all over the country with a few in Lisbon’s design. And for a glimpse at the most modern- area; but with street art, you never really know how ist district in Lisbon, head to Alvalade, which long they’ll be there. was built from scratch in the middle of the last Downtown, Lisbon’s visual narrative largely century. Everything from Art Deco to a cement orbits around the historic, but peripheral neigh- monolith with fish sculptures attached to it can borhoods present more contemporary sights. If you be found. arrive by rail and are lucky enough to land in the These days, public art is becoming more Oriente in the north, you can gawk at prevalent in Lisbon. In fact, the city coun- one of the city’s architectural icons: the lightweight- cil has an official arm that deals specifically looking Gothic-inspired canopy that Santiago with street art called the Gallery of Urban Art Calatrava designed in 1998. A mile away is the (GAU), which allows it to focus on targeted Oceanário; in 2013, it was treated to an expansion initiatives with an international cadre of art- by local outfit Campos Costa Arquitectos, which ists. Underdogs Gallery, an arts institution used ceramic tiles reminiscent of fish scales in the founded by renowned Portuguese street artist

73 Clockwise from top left: Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara is a public garden that boasts views across the city to Castelo de São Jorge. A collaboration by street artists Vhils and Pixel Pancho. Lisbon’s Oceanário attracts over one million visitors annually.

74 ANTHOLOGYMAG.COM Lx Factory Rua Rodrigues de Faria 103; lxfactory .com. These centuries-old, under-the- bridge factories have been given new lives thanks to a spate of designers, artists, and restaurateurs who recently transformed the area into Lisbon’s crea- tive core.

Mude Rua Augusta 24; mude.pt. Starting this summer, this (free) art and design museum will put together an exhaustive exhibit about the national airline TAP in celebration of its 70th birthday. Expect flight attendant uniforms, advertising posters, and cutlery.

Underdogs Gallery Rua Fernando Palha 56; under-dogs.net. Founded by famed Portuguese artist Vhils, this gallery often hosts interna- tional street artists for commissioned public projects all over the city.

SHOP

Alexandra Moura Vhils (known for carving his Rua Dom Pedro V 77; alexandramoura work into public surfaces) and CITY GUIDE .com. Alexandra Moura is easily one of his partner Pauline Foessel, is Portugal’s most promising contempo- one of GAU’s major collabora- SEE & DO rary designers. This storefront stocks tors. Underdogs has commis- her collection of asymmetrical coats, Bairro de Alvalade sioned more than 10 large-scale breezy dresses, and perforated unisex Those seeking a break from downtown pieces all over the city (some baggy shorts. Lisbon’s tiled architecture can head to occupying entire walls of multi- the neighborhood of Alvalade, which A Vida Portuguesa story buildings), working with was built almost from scratch in the ear- Various locations; avidaportuguesa.com. respected global creatives like ly 20th century. Wide avenues, relaxing There might not be a better place to Sainer and Pixel Pancho. green spaces, and architecture that’s grab a souvenir: A Vida Portuguesa’s “Lisbon is a city of diversity,” symmetrical and almost monolithic in two Lisbon shops are packed with says Pauline. “If you look at its nature dominate its cityscape. tinned sardines, cork accessories, craft beer, local skincare items, and more. past, its architecture, you’ll find Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation an amazing complexity that re- Avenida Berna 45; gulbenkian.pt. The Lis- Burel sults in a very poetic city. I think bon arm of this international organiza- Rua Serpa Pinto 15B; burelfactory.com. public art can help illuminate tion is a multi-purpose arts hub that has A Portuguese hospitality group revived its façades, create new stories for a museum, an art library, an orchestra, this textile operation by using the mate- people to see in the city.” and a leafy park. rial (burel is a thick, wool fabric that re-

75 sembles felt) in much more stylish ways, Clube de Jornalistas Pimenta Rosa like in multi-pocket backpacks, brightly Rua das Trinas 129; restauranteclube Travessa Corpo de Santo 15; pimenta printed scarves, and colorful, oversized dejornalistas.com. The back courtyard of rosa.pt. This brand-new shop sells only blankets, all of which are available at this charming restaurant is the perfect the finest of Portuguese products, the Lisbon boutique. summertime hangout while tucking whether it’s fragrant bath goods from Cortiço e Netos into creative dishes such as sea bass Ach Brito, china from Bordallo Pinheiro, ceviche with spicy popcorn and beef or any one of the 600 labels of wine Calçada de Santo André 66; corticoe carpaccio topped with crushed almonds hidden in the cellar. netos.com. Four brothers inherited the and truffle vinaigrette. family tile business from their grand- Restaurante Pharmacia father and opened a new shop, where Copenhagen Coffee Lab Rua Marechal Saldanha 1; facebook.com/ only a portion of thousands of vintage, Rua Nova da Piedade 10; cphcoffeelab.pt. restaurantepharmacia. Local illustrator discontinued tiles are on display. This sleek café from Denmark is usually Cristiana Couceiro designed the whimsi- Espaço B packed with laptop-toting locals, who cal pharmacy-inspired wallpaper that come for the third-wave coffee styles lines the restaurant’s interiors. It also Rua Dom Pedro V 120; espaco-b.com. (pour-over, Aeropress) that hip baristas provides a charming backdrop to Chef A chic multi-brand boutique that carries are churning out. Susana Felicidade’s menu of simple but rare-to-Lisbon brands like Harris Wharf flavorful Portuguese cooking. and Ter et Bantine, plus made-in-Portu- Eleven gal standouts such as beach-ready garb Rua Marquês da Fronteira; restaurant WHERE TO STAY from Mais351. eleven.com. This elegant hilltop restau- Feira da Ladra rant’s two major draws are its Michelin- Memmo Alfama starred menu and awesome views of Campo de Santa Clara. This massive Travessa das Merceeiras 27; memmo downtown Lisbon. flea market in Alfama has everything, hotels.com. Tucked away on a quiet from old cassette tapes, Escudo coins Espaço Espelho d'Água street in Alfama, this design hotel (the Portuguese currency before the features sleek, comfortable (if small) Avenida Brasília; espacoespelhodeagua Euro took over in 1999), kitschy religious rooms rendered in contemporary color .com. This minimal restaurant-cum- paraphernalia, and much more. schemes and lots of natural materials. lounge in Belém references art, design, The public rooms are equally stylish, and recipes from destinations the Vista Alegre and the outdoor pool/lounge area Portuguese explored during the Age of Largo do Chiado 20-23; myvistaalegre comes with unmatched views of the Discovery. .com. A traditional ceramics company neighborhood. from central Portugal, Vista Alegre has Mercado da Ribeira Valverde Hotel recently received a jolt of modernity Avenida 24 de Julho 49; pt-br.facebook thanks to collaborations with more 164; valverdehotel .com/timeoutmercadodaribeira. Time Out design-oriented brands such as Chris- .com. This incredibly chic new property (the publishing company) took over this tian Lacroix. is a fashion-set favorite for its location market and turned it into a modern food on the city’s version of Rodeo Drive. hall that calls some of the city’s best EAT & DRINK food purveyors its tenants. GETTING AROUND Cinco Lounge Mini Bar Serviced by trams, buses, and subways, Rua Ruben A. Leitão 17A; cincolounge Rua António Maria Cardoso 58; minibar Lisbon is quite easy to navigate—even .com. At one of the city’s premier .pt. José Avillez is one of a couple of from Lisbon Portela Airport (LIS). If cocktail bars, order its signature drink; Portugal’s homegrown Michelin-starred you don’t mind the steep hills, walking the Alfie is a refreshing beverage that toques. He has a handful of eateries in around is the best way to get a feel for cleverly (and effectively) combines the the capital; Mini Bar, a place for innova- the city’s unique atmosphere. Other- flavors of the negroni and a gin fizz. tive small plates, is his latest hit. wise, there are taxis everywhere.

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