sign in sign up
<<
Home , Gastronomy, Tamas (philosophy)

shutterstock Indian Gastronomy Indian Secrets of EDUCATIONAL INSIGHT sale at the Anjuna Marketsale attheAnjuna inGoa,India Large sacksofherbs, spices andmasalason A Synopsis of the Ayurvedic Fundamentals of and its Preparation m indian gastronomy i indian a ll text exce text ll anjit gill , corpora r pted f y , by ren ro t e ch m t n e h f owned culinary guru, e , T itc-hotel

b “Our food is deeply grounded with fi

home or at acommercial establishment, four essentials of culinarysci- juice of life, tocajole the seedof tomorrow, topropagate life. then grows. the dominance of any of the three determines behavior patterns. three basicgunasthat have permeated allmatter toform their basic to itsthree basicforms, or gunas: , andtamas. It isthese these learnings which, when integrated into our dailyway of liv- Indian gastronomy is anancient treasure trove of knowledge, andour that the creator must beendowed withhygiene, health andfreshness. elements, fi elements, particularly the humors, six savors and nine feelings.” bring clouds of rain. The windscrackle withlighting and forms. Water creates shores on the Earth.Fire evaporates moisture to food. No wonder agreat dealof thought is invested inour scriptures, nature. Human personality, too, isablend of these three gunas; and ing andeating, reward uswithbrilliance of body, mindandsoul. ness andlongevity. My adviceremains tounderstandandpractice offers itsexpanse tosway the air. Andthe earthvibrates togive space hascontinuously evolved, basedon the philosophy of well- ence canbeculled from the scriptures: knowledge of food, preparation each other andwith God.Inthe contemporary context, whether at system of the universe. Earthgives life toVanaspati andother life some andhealthy diet,the emphasis beingon raw andfreshly cooked skills, the creator’s state of mind,andhygiene. Food hasthe unique of absorbing from itssurroundings. It istherefore necessary o A right balanceof the three gunasisthe key ingredient of awhole- o Our k

s he physical, aswell asmetaphysical, aspectsof food food andbecomes food for other creations. Matter draws energy from food tobecome alive, gets nourished and cannot beignored. Manisborn of food, nourished by e c r , s e ve senses, three strands, three t Upanishads s

the juiceof food, converts into o have envisioned acycle of life inthe macro- f

, on how food andlife are interlinked with april/may/june, 2016hinduism today ve ve

rakta,

I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I

N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N

S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S

S E D U

C

I I I I I I I I I I I I I

A

G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G

the

T T T T T T

I I

O O O O H O

fi N N N N

A A re. Space A L L L T L S 37 shutterstock Indian Gastronomy Indian Secrets of EDUCATIONAL INSIGHT sale at the Anjuna Marketsale attheAnjuna inGoa,India Large sacksofherbs, spices andmasalason A Synopsis of the Ayurvedic Fundamentals of Food and its Preparation m indian gastronomy i indian a ll text exce text ll anjit gill , corpora r pted f y , by ren ro t e ch m t n e h f owned culinary guru, e , T itc-hotel

b “Our food is deeply grounded with fi

home or at acommercial establishment, four essentials of culinarysci- juice of life, tocajole the seedof tomorrow, topropagate life. then grows. three basicgunasthat have permeated allmatter toform their basic to itsthree basicforms, or gunas: sattva, rajas andtamas. It isthese the dominance of any of the three determines behavior patterns. Indian gastronomy is anancient treasure trove of knowledge, andour that the creator must beendowed withhygiene, health andfreshness. these learnings which, when integrated into our dailyway of liv- elements, fi elements, particularly the humors, six savors and nine feelings.” bring clouds of rain. The windscrackle withlighting and forms. Water creates shores on the Earth.Fire evaporates moisture to nature. Human personality, too, isablend of these three gunas; and food. No wonder agreat dealof thought is invested inour scriptures, ness andlongevity. My adviceremains tounderstandandpractice ing andeating, reward uswithbrilliance of body, mindandsoul. offers itsexpanse tosway the air. Andthe earthvibrates togive space ence canbeculled from the scriptures: knowledge of food, preparation each other andwith God.Inthe contemporary context, whether at cuisine hascontinuously evolved, basedon the philosophy of well- system of the universe. Earthgives life toVanaspati andother life skills, the creator’s state of mind,andhygiene. Food hasthe unique some andhealthy diet,the emphasis beingon raw andfreshly cooked quality of absorbing from itssurroundings. It istherefore necessary o A right balanceof the three gunasisthe key ingredient of awhole- o Our k

s he physical, aswell asmetaphysical, aspectsof food food andbecomes food for other creations. Matter draws energy from food tobecome alive, gets nourished and cannot beignored. Manisborn of food, nourished by Upanishads e c r Rasa, s e ve senses, three strands, three t Upanishads s

the juiceof food, converts into o have envisioned acycle of life inthe macro- f

, on how food andlife are interlinked with april/may/june, 2016hinduism today ve ve

rakta,

I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I

N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N

S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S

S E D U

C

I I I I I I I I I I I I I

A

G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G G

the

T T T T T T

I I

O O O O H O

fi N N N N

A A re. Space A L L L T L S 37 vigor and stimulates retention of water in The Pillar of Life the body. Excess salt, however, may cause symptoms of dehydration. hough is popularly regarded as a Pungent food is made up of air and fi re. stream of traditional medicine, it is much more than These elements are found in great propor- that. It is the science of life. The word itself signifi es tions in mustard, chilli, pepper, onions, that: ayur means life and veda connotes knowledge. garlic and other hot spices. Bitter food has And the goal of ayurveda is the pursuit of longevity and ether and air as basic elements; it provides complete fulfi llment. coolness and buoyancy. Such balance Ayurveda is one of the branches of the . It is the moist, heavy and hot qualities of sweet, regarded as an Upaveda of the Rig Veda and Atharva salty and sour food items. This is Veda; but, essentially speaking, it is a stream of the found more in green leafy vegetables. Finally, knowledge coming down generations since eternity, par- astringent food comprises air and earth. It allel to the Vedic literature. That is why its emergence has has a cooling and drying effect on the body. been said to be from the creator, himself, prior to Astringency incidentally, is found in unripe “creation.” bananas, pomegranate and berries of differ- Our scriptures mention the passage of this vital knowl- ent kinds. Each taste has a subtle emotional edge from conception to propagation. Brahma, the creator and mental effect. of the universe, imparted this knowledge to , the A well-balanced diet, according to the lord of the human species. Prajapati instructed the Ash- principles, should contain good rice pro- wins, or twin Deities, to bring ayurveda to Lord , cured from the paddy field, green gram, king of the Gods and the upholder of the heavenly order. green vegetables, rock salt, barley, milk Indra awarded this knowledge to the greater rishis and chef gill and ghee, honey and hygienically collected teachers—Atreya, Bharadwaja, and Dhanvantari. lot of stress on the taste of food. Taste, which one can experience, is rainwater. These prescribed food items Then Agnivesha, Rishi Atreya’s meticulous pupil, documented the the common man’s key to uncovering the highly complex science of provide the body with necessary carbohy- science of ayurveda. And fi nally Charaka discovered the lost ends in nutrition. drates, proteins, fats, minerals and vitamins. the 5th century and recompiled the science in the form of Charaka The experience of the palate triggers a chain of chemical reactions Ayurveda also stipulates that no one shall . This book, which is full of Charaka’s medical conjectures, that have an effect on all organs of the body, particularly the diges- eat without washing one’s hands, feet and defi nes food, sleep and self control as the pillars that support life. tive system. Food items of the tejas prakriti (hot nature) enhance the face and cleaning one’s mouth. In a simple, rhythmic , the book talks about complex phenom- digestive functions, while the ingestion of food items on the shita It recommends proper chewing of food ena, like ingestion, digestion, absorption, assimilation and metabo- prakriti (cool nature) slows down enzyme inundation. Tastes also before swallowing. It does not condemn lism of the fi ve basic elements, namely earth (prithivi), water (aap), have a subtle effect on the body and its metabolism. any kind of food, irrespective of the fi re (), air () and ether (akasha). Both and Ayurveda categorizes tastes into six behavioral categories. The style and taste. All subscribe to the Agnivesha clearly state that curable and incurable body disorders are ayurvedic values so far as they are balanced. the result of dietary indiscretions. In this regard, ayurveda includes what is shutterstock Further, food is classifi ed into four categories according to the way Food science: (clockwise from above) Chef Manjit Gill, who probably the oldest and most visionary gas- it is consumed: solid food, which is eaten; liquids to be drunk; semi- compiled The Secrets of Indian Gastronomy cookbook in 2012 for basic elements of sweet food are mainly earth and water. They tend tronomic science in the world. Such a fully developed science now fl uids that are licked; and fi brous foods that are chewed. Pusa Institute Hotel Management Alumni Association with over 50 to be heavy and moist, so they provide heaviness and moisture to requires the right translation with deep understanding and adapta- The omnipresence of the fi ve basic elements in complex propor- recipes from the collections of India’s most celebrated professionals; the body. Sour tasting food has earth and fi re as the basic elements. tion. Some of the greatest doctors and sages have contributed their tions in food actually determines its taste and behavior. nine aspects of ayurveda; a chart of ayurvedic body types; a well- It stimulates the digestive system and provides warmth to the body. finest insights and discoveries to its ancient and profound food Interestingly, unlike what is popularly believed, ayurveda lays a prepared meal of stuffed potato bread and white chickpeas Salty food, primarily consisting of fi re and water, promotes digestive wisdom.

Ten Food Rules for Health Three Bodily Humors

ccording to rishi charaka, ayurveda clearly states By Pandit Vamadeva Shastri (David Frawley) that curable and noncurable body disorders are the results oshas relate to physical and psychological energies, mind-body of dietary disorders. types, temperaments and characteristics. Dosha means “that which Here are ten ayurvedic guidelines on diet. causes things to decay,” referring to the disease potential inherent in 1. Eat foods that are freshly cooked. these biological humors. Doshas are three: vata, pitta and kapha. 2. Food should be tasty and easy to digest. Pitta, which relates to bile at a physiological level, or the “fi re” humor, helps us in 3. Food needs to be eaten in proper quantities, neither too much nor too little. digestion on all levels, physical and mental—from proper digestion of food to the 4. Food and its courses need to work together, not contradict one another. ability to perceive reality. It refl ects the qualities of fi re and the oily aspect of water. It is linked to warmth, courage, valor and assertion. 5. Food should be eaten on an empty stomach, after Vata, meaning air or wind, as a biological force, or the “air” humor, propels all the previous meal has been digested. bodily functions and movements, from the digestive system to the mind, connected 6. Food should be eaten in a congenial atmosphere and to the background power of prana. It refl ects the qualities of air and space. It mani- with appropriate equipment and implements. fests as energy, enthusiasm, desire for change and instability. 7. Food should not be eaten hurriedly. Kapha, relating to mucus at a physiological level, or the “water” humor, is respon- 8. Food should not be eaten slowly, lest its fl avor be lost. sible for cohesion, form and nutrition in body and mind. It refl ects the qualities of shutterstock 9. Food should be eaten with concentrated attention. shutterstock water and earth, the dominant qualities found in most foods. It is linked with feeling, 10. Foods should be eaten that suit one’s constitution and temperament. endurance, receptivity and inertia. april/may/june, 2016 today 39 Three Strands of Nature

ven the food each person prefers is of three kinds, according to the three modes of material nature. The same is true of sacrifi ces, austerities and charity. Here are the distinctions between them. You eat what you are and you are what you eat. 27. 7–10 This verse points to the interrelationship between food, self, cli- mate and the ultimate reality by true cultural formulation. First you eat what you are; and second you are what you eat. The fi rst is well grounded in the Bhagavad Gita, where foods are classifi ed accord- ing to the strands (gunas). The second formulation bases itself on the Upanishadic instruction: pure nourishment leads to pure mind. A healthy body is considered to be a by-product of discriminating and shutterstock all images: controlled nourishments. Eating wisely: (clockwise from above) Note to self: The Earth vibrates to provide ether (space) to its three strands, or diet is important; a basket of ripe mangos (sattvic food); gunas. They are defi ned as the quality of energy. As per Indian gas- vegetarian samosas (rajasic); North Indian style beef tronomy, the balance of the trigunas—sattva, rajas and —is the korma (tamasic) with rice and salad; the fi ve elements so key ingredient of a wholesome diet for health. Moderation is the key. central to ayurveda: space, air, water, fi re and earth SATTVIC: Sattva means pure. Sattva is a benevolent, unobstruc- tive guna. It is associated with happiness and knowledge and forms the soul of man. A person, who has a command over his own think- quantities till he satiates his hunger half way. Examples of such foods Sattva Rajas Tamas ing abilities, is sattvik in nature. In food, the sattvik enhances are milk and its products, jaggery, honey, fruits, etc. longevity, mental power, health and the feeling of contentment. Con- RAJASIC: Rajas, as the name suggests, is an expression of royalty. suming food in this category gives alertness, quick-thinking and is in Its features are passion, valor, pride and possession. It is known to be such food loses capacity to distinguish the minimum stimuli and comprehension. Tamasics prefer eating food as the only priority and with nature. It is savory and nutritive. Therefore, a person the manas (mind) of the human cycle. A rajasic person is involved in as time goes on requires stronger ones to reach a good level of deep hence fi ll their appetite completely with food. All heavy, fried and who has dominant sattvic traits will be a thinker on a higher plane, physically oriented work. A person who is rajasic is basically a doer, understanding. A rajasik needs high-energy food, hence would con- stale food would be included in this category, because it is basically will have more curiosity, strive hard for real knowledge, will be is desirous and domineering and will use almost any means to suc- sume till his hunger is three quarters fulfi lled. These are foods that prepared long before being eaten. The food is tasteless, putrid, foul and patient in nature and will try to win a competitive situation by adop- ceed. The rajasic tattva in food triggers activity and the wish to con- are bitter, sour, salty and pungent. impure in characteristics. On the other hand, it might be too bitter, too tion of fair means. The person is conducive to serenity and spiritual- quer. As the food is spicy, rich in fats and salts, pungent and warm, it TAMASIC: Tamas inspires indolence, violence and a state of rest. salty, too sour, too pungent or too hot. While consumption of this kind ity. He has strong refl exes, quick to grasp even at the slightest stimuli. also gives rise to many ailments. Highly spiced food, food produced It relates to decomposition and death. A person who is tamasic in of food can be hazardous to health, a small portion induces rest and Sattvik food is easily digestible, fresh and ripe and can be cooked by by suppressive means, or the meat of slaughtered animals and fi sh nature will lack the desire to learn or put any effort in any activity. He sleep. A tamasic palate will fi ll the stomach with solids alone, leaving a simple and quick process. A sattvic person will eat in moderate (for non-vegetarians) is rajas dominant. The person who consumes lacks the intellectual capacity to act on the situation using common no place for liquids or air. Beef is tamasic as are preserved meats.

puffed rice, puffed lotus seeds. Foods which are prepared with air One can consider and classify all substances with the basic under- incorporation or created with raising agents fall into this category. standing that everything is a mixture of different proportions of the The Five Elements air water Consuming ether elemental food increases lightness and softness in fi ve elements. the body. hen we look at nature, we see that the five ele- Air, Vayu: It is weightless, mobile, cold, dry, porous and subtle. Composition of Our Body ments create the base for the entire physical world. Substances that create dryness and are airy or create gas fall into We are one of the living organisms present on Earth. We are physi- These fi ve elements are space, air, fi re, water and earth. this category, foods like cabbage, caulifl ower, beans and radish. Their cally made up of exactly the same elements that form all other simi- Ayurveda, in Indian gastronomy, talks about the fi ve ele- intake increases coolness, dryness, movement and circulation. Exces- lar creatures. When we die, our body returns to earth, water, fi re, ments within the human body. We nourish our body with foods sive consumption of substances that are vayu in nature can cause air and ether. The combination of these elements sustains our body from earth. Water is nectar for us; it makes up more than 70 percent dryness and gas. through breathing air, consuming food and taking in the elements of our total body mass. Fire provides heat, radiant energy and exists ether Fire, Agni or Tejas: It is hot, sharp, dry, subtle and rough. It has found in the surrounding natural world. within metabolic action. Air fl ows freely in the body and provides the quality of radiation of heat and light. Anything combustible and In our body, akasha, or ether, is present wherever there is a cav- oxygen to every cell. Space, in the background, allows the four ele- pungent is of the nature of agni, foods like clove, cumin, ajwain, cin- ity, like the nostrils, mouth, ears, throat, lungs and stomach; vayu, or ments to interact in a particular fashion. namon and chillies. Intake of such items increases digestion, metabo- air, in movements of the lungs, heart, stomach, intestine and joints. In ayurveda, to explore the elements in the human body, we use lism, glow and color of the skin. Agni, or fi re, can be seen as intelligence, body temperature and meta- the senses of hearing, taste, touch, sight and smell. Water, Jal or Aap: It is oily, moist, cool, soft and sticky. Its attri- bolic activities, such as digestion. Jal, or water, is present as plasma, The human life cycle is governed by the three doshas: 1) child- butes are cohesion and lubrication. It facilitates fl uidity and helps blood, mucus and saliva. Prithivi, earth, is any solid structure, like hood, where physical growth takes place (water and earth); 2) adult- in identifying tastes through saliva. Foods like gourd in its different fat, muscles, skin, nails, hair, bones and teeth. The basic element is hood, where activity and change occur (fi re and water); and 3) old age, earth fi re varieties, cucumber, melon, watermelon and zucchini are a few exam- earth, and its compatibility with man clarifi es why substances found where the body begins to weaken (space and air). ples. They increase smoothness, coolness, softness and fl uids. in the natural world, like vegetables, fruits, herbs and spices, are The elements, mahabhutas, have certain qualities, attributes and Earth, Prithivi: It is heavy, rough, solid, stable and slow. It facili- harmonious with human systems. They can be easily absorbed and impacts on the body, mind and soul. All objects and substances are element group. Characteristics of the fi ve elements are as follows: tates fragrance, fl avors, odors and shapes. Foods which are solid and cause no adverse reaction or side effects. Consumption in appropri- a mixture of the fi ve elements, but each has one dominating element Space, Akasha: It is soft, light and subtle. Anything that is pro- heavy, like cheese, banana, mango and chikoo, fall in this category. Its ate quantity is the key. They are fundamentally the same in char- by which it is identifi ed and classifi ed. Food is used to illustrate the fuse and ethereal; foods which are hollow and light, such as popcorn, intake increases stability, obesity and solidity in the body. acter and composition. This is why foods are able to heal our body.

40 hinduism today april/may/june, 2016 april/may/june, 2016 hinduism today 41 The Six Tastes

s per indian gastronomy, nutrition is on the tip of the tongue. The sense of taste is a natural guide to proper nutrition. For centuries we have depended largely upon taste to identify healthy food from nature. It’s the work of the taste buds to identify tastes and, even more, to reveal the nutri- tive value of food and stimulate the agni digestive power. Bland food may not be nourishing despite its vitamins or minerals, Sour because without stimulating agni there is no real power of digestion. Sweet Ayurvedic gastronomy has therefore always included the science of cooking with the right spices. Tastes were discovered from ancient times in Indian gastronomy in ayurveda. When the receptors com- bine themselves with food molecules—for example sugar—an elec- trical impulse is transmitted to the brain for the fi nal taste analysis. According to science, the theory is similar. During the biological evolution of man, the development of different types of taste recep- tors was quite remarkable, especially that of bitter and astringent, Salty whereas sweet was the only naturally acceptable taste. When a child is born, the fi rst solid food given is always sweet in taste. Children

initially are highly sensitive to bitterness, but that slowly decreases shutterstock all images: with age. This is particularly evident in women, who as adults or seniors consume more bitter foods than they would have consumed For ages, humans relied largely upon taste to discover healthy It provides calories, removes nervousness created by glucose defi - Three of the six tastes: (left to right) Six tastes defi ne foods in in their childhood. foods in nature and avoid toxicity. It was the search of the tasty ciency, removes acidity and provides a healthy glow to the skin. Indian gastronomy. Sweet: rice, peaches, walnuts and onions. Sour: When we eat, the aromas of food are released through chewing food which helped man go through an evolution of . Nutrient fl uids of the body—i.e., blood, fl esh, fat, bone, bone mar- citrus, tomatos, pineapple and garlic. Salty: six varieties of salt. and digestion. The mouth and nose communicate while taste and It was also taste which determined if the food was safe or fi t for row and vital essence (also known as ojas)—are also improved by smell work together to interpret characteristics of what we eat and consumption. consuming sweet taste. Sweet taste builds tissues and calms nerves. drink. Rasa means appreciation, artistic delight and musical note. Rasa It is excellent for the seven vital tissues. It increases bulk and adds and fi re elements. It has a hot effect and is light and moist by nature. Food speaks to us directly through taste. A juicy mango may call also means “sap,” as the taste of an herb refl ects the properties of the weight. However, excess of sweet-tasting food is not good for the It should be consumed at the second stage of the meal. It excites the out to us with a gentle message of delight, while the fl aming pepper sap that invigorates it. Rasa means circulation, to feel, to dance, all teeth. It increases the mucus, and, in excess, results in numbness, mind, increases appetite and produces saliva. (That happens even cries out in warning. As we tune into the tastes naturally desired by of which is refl ected in the energizing power of taste. According to lethargy, heaviness, loss of appetite, indigestion, weak gastric fi re, when a sour food is just remembered; think about a lemon!) The the body, we tap into the body’s innate wisdom regarding food and ayurveda, there are six tastes. Every taste we feel on our tongue is in cough, constipation and vomiting. sour taste stimulates the digestive fi re, builds up and invigorates the nutrition. According to ayurveda, the sense of taste is a natural guide one way or another a combination of any of two of the fi ve elements, Madhura relieves thirst and has benefi cial effects on the skin, hair body, stabilizes functions of the senses, lightens the mind, increases map towards proper nutrition. with the help of which all foods can be categorized as sweet, sour, and voice. A few examples of sweet-tasting foods are: honey, raw strength and regulates the movement of gases. It nourishes all vital If we feel an unusual desire for a particular taste, then it is the cor- salty, bitter, pungent or astringent. sugar, milk, ghee, wheat, rice, apricots, ripe bananas, coconut, dates, tissues except the reproductive, or shukra. It also cleanses tissues responding emotional effect that we are after. In most cases, it is fi ne SWEET: Madhura, or sweet taste, is considered to be the fi rst fi gs, pineapple, ripe mango, papaya, peaches, plums, pomegranates, and increases absorption of minerals. It strengthens the heart, helps to give in to it, as long as these desires do not become addictions. The bite of the meal, which cools down the system and thus increases raisins, taro, red beets, carrots, cucumber, turnips, bay leaf, black car- the food move down the digestive tract, moistens the food, gives bitter taste is calming and detaching, the pungent taste motivating the fire for digestion. The sweet taste is the result of the com- damom, cinnamon, coriander leaves, fennel, onions, saffron, almonds, pleasure and increases the appetite. If consumed in excess, it pro- and alerting, the salty taste sedating and grounding, while the sweet bination of water and earth. It is moist and cooling by nature. It is cashew nuts, pistachios and walnuts. vokes thirst. It increases pitta and kapha and subdues vata. In excess taste is soothing. heavy, cold and unctuous. It is nourishing, soothing and satisfying. SOUR: Amla, the sour taste, results from the mixture of the earth it can also cause acidity and a general sensation of burning in the

Additional thought should be given to the textures and tactile sensa- hearing. The sound of the cracking nut, for instance, enhances the The Five Senses tions one feels in the mouth when eating a curd or the satisfaction pleasure of eating, as does the sound of biting into anything that one feels while biting into a crisp apple, which is attributed, in part, is crispy. The crackling of curry leaves and mustard in oil signi- here is a complex understanding between food and the to hearing. While taste variations are clearly prevalent, texture and fi es that the oil is at optimum temperature for cooking. It is at this senses. It is amazing to validate the role of nature in the con- sensory attributes are emphasized as chewed or charvya, like roots stage, with the help of the hearing sense, that it is determined when stitution of the senses, that the basic fi ve elements actually and vegetables; sucked food like curd are chusya; lehya are foods to the next ingredient is to be added in the recipe. The sound emit- permeate these and inspire them in varied proportion. be licked, like mangos; peya are those that are drunk, like milk; and ted by any ingredient also tells the cook about the edibility of that SIGHT: The sight of the food prepared is the first sense that bhojya, like cooked rice, need no chewing and are swallowed. item. What is supposed to be crisp, if it is not crisp, can be stale. comes alive. If the food is not appealing, one would not go further Sight Touch SMELL: Earth stimulates the sense of smell. A fl avorful, aromatic TASTE: It has a very signifi cant role in our cuisine. Water titil- to taste it. Fire or light inspires the vision. Food that does not look smell increases the appetite. Since biological evolution times, food lates taste. Without it, no taste can be experienced. Water by itself is good is not cooked with tender feelings and hence doesn’t appeal to has been perceived as safe on the basis of the odor it emits. A foul neutral, but it is the base medium for each taste. Indian gastronomy us. The appeal of the food being cooked at every step is also deter- smell indicated that the food was stale, toxic and rendered unfi t for states that the taste of an herb is not incidental but is an indication mined by its appearance. If the item has turned to a color that is not consumption. As the sense of smell developed, with it came the of its properties. Different tastes possess different effects. Usually required, it helps to alter the method of cooking or to change the maturity of recognizing ingredients and combining them with their we do not correlate taste with the therapeutic property of foods. We entire step. Therefore, stress should be laid on the aesthetic aspects right match. Aroma has always been a signifi cant aspect of food. consider taste only for the pleasure of the palate. In other theories, of food. The right color coordination in any particular dish gives out The feeling of cinnamon might be pungent, but the aroma and then the taste of an herb is more a means of identifi cation than a means of a feeling that the dish is healthy and can satiate one’s hunger. the fl avor are sweet. This makes it an excellent ingredient in sweet understanding its effects. There is a general belief that spicy, pungent TOUCH: Air vibrates touch. The texture of food determines its recipes. food creates more heat or that bitter foods help reduce fever, but this characteristics. It tells if the dish prepared is dry, gravy or a sauce. Smell Hearing Taste SOUND: It is only in space that one can experience the sense of is not the basis for classifi cation of herbs by taste.

42 hinduism today april/may/june, 2016 april/may/june, 2016 hinduism today 43 throat, chest and heart. A few examples of sour foods are lemon and other citrus fruits, yoghurt, grapes, unripe mango, pineapple, pome- granate, raisins, tomatoes, garlic, tamarind and gooseberry. Astringent SALTY: Lavana, the salty taste, is heavy, hot and moist in nature. It is produced from the merging of the water and fi re elements. It excites hunger, and should be consumed after the sour taste. Salt is a digestive; it diffuses food particles, liquefi es food and subdues vata. It cures stiffness and obstruction of body fl uids and prevents the accu- mulation of toxins. It increases the secretion of saliva; this decreases kapha, clarifi es the digestive passage and softens all the limbs. It can Pungent easily dominate all other tastes if added in excess, which can lead to water retention and thus weight gain. If used excessively, it provokes dryness and thirst. It also causes fatigue and increases body heat, which can result in fainting. It increases swelling, loosens teeth and gums, creates impurities of the blood and decreases virility. Excess consumption can aggravate pitta and kapha, which can cause pre- mature wrinkles, lead to gray hair and be harmful for eyes and skin. Some examples of natural occurring salts are rock salt, sea salt, lake salt, black salt, potatoes, spinach and garlic. Bitter PUNGENT: Tikta, the pungent taste, is light, hot and dry in nature. The pungent taste is a combination of air and fi re elements.

It excites the sense organs. It has a hot effect and is dry and light. shutterstock all images: It is the sharpest/hottest of all tastes. When taken straight, one bite is enough to make the eyes water and the nose run. Pungent A few examples of pungent foods are black peppercorn, ginger, cumin seeds, fenugreek, garlic, taro, saffron and turmeric. Three more of the six tastes: (left to right) food increases circulation and makes one sweat. Such foods dry up chillies, taro, turnips, anise, asafetida, long pepper, black cardamom, Indian gastronomy states that the taste of food is not incidental but Pungent: ginger, black pepper, cloves and asafetida. wounds and kill worms in the upper and lower digestive tracts. The cinnamon, cloves, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, black cumin, fennel, is an indication of its properties. Different tastes possess different Bitter: coffee, bitter gourd, turmeric and fenugreek. pungent taste purifies the mouth, stimulates the gastric fire, pro- garlic, ajwain seeds, onion, saffron and turmeric. effects. For instance, there is a general belief that pungent foods create Astringent: carrots, radishes, lettuce and potatoes. motes desiccation of food and sharpens the sense organs. It gives BITTER: Katu, the bitter taste, is produced from a blend of air and more heat, fi re or agni, and that bitter foods help reduce fever. relish to food, removes intestinal obstruction and helps elimination ether elements. It is light, cooling and dry by nature. It excites the ner- ASTRINGENT: Kashaya, the astringent taste, is heavy, cold and and subjugation of kapha, which in turn clears sinuses. It increases vous system. As a blood purifi er, it helps the body get rid of toxins and dry in nature. It is produced by a mixture of air and earth elements. carrots, cucumber, potatoes, spinach, coriander leaves, fenugreek, gar- sweating and detoxification, improves metabolism and releases destroys intestinal worms. Bitter food cures diseases caused by excess It excites the vascular system. It purifi es the blood, helps in keep- lic, turmeric, honey and walnuts. muscle pain. In excess, pungent foods cause a burning sensation and pitta and kapha. Although it is not very pleasant, it is appetizing in its ing skin healthy and aids digestion and the assimilation of fats and It is imperative to include a balanced ratio of all the six tastes while thirst in the throat, dryness in mouth and lips, intense body heat and action. It is a strong detoxifying agent and has antibiotic and antiseptic oils. It is a sedative for the blood, decreases pitta and kapha, and con- creating a meal. Consuming all the six tastes in a correct proportion gastritis. It is harmful for the eyes and seminal fl uid because of its qualities. It also helps in reducing water retention and skin rashes; it puri- sumes fl uids. If consumed in excess, the astringent taste affects the in each meal ensures that all signals are judiciously met. This then post-digestive effects. It can destroy virility. Excess can also create fi es blood and brings lightness in tissues. It is an antidote to poison and heart, distends the stomach, weakens virility, causes retardation of prevents food craving and over-eating. If tastes are not balanced, there fl uid and bile disorders. vermicide. It cures burning, itching and thirst. It gives fi rmness to the metabolic functions and raises various fl uid disorders. It can cause will be a feeling of dissatisfaction after the meal. This results in an When we are sick, we lose our sense of taste and our appetite. Taste, skin and fl esh. It is a digestive stimulant and purifi es blood and milk for dryness of mouth, palate and lips. It also can cause constipation and emotional desire for a particular taste. Generally, the sweet taste is appetite and digestion are interrelated. Lack of taste indicates fever or the lactating mother. In excess, the bitter taste has a drying effect on the thirst, creating a change in body color. The skin of many vegetables most needed; sour, pungent and astringent tastes are needed in mod- other disease; low agni means high amma (toxin). To improve agni body; it induces weariness, fainting and giddiness, and it dries the mouth and fruits has astringent qualities. Astringent taste absorbs water, eration; salty and bitter tastes are needed in small amounts only. This and eradicate diseases, it is necessary to improve our taste. This is and creates wind, which results in nervousness and loss of strength. tightens tissues and dries the fats. A few examples of astringent foods also depends on climate and personal biochemistry. The effect of food why spices are such an important part of our food. Desire for tasty A few examples of bitter foods are coffee, quinine, grapefruit, are lettuce, radish, alum, unripe banana or plantain, pomegranates, during digestion is either hot or cold. Foods are also classifi ed as dry food indicates hunger, nothing unnatural. papaya (slightly), bitter gourd, neem, asafetida, bay leaf, cinnamon, yoghurt, apricots, fi gs, grapes, papaya, peaches, plums, bitter gourd, or unctuous; which we generally describe as light or heavy.

India’s Six Seasons, Ritu

ituchara, the concept of seasons, is divided into two kalas or solstices. Adan kala (uttarayana) or northern sol- stice and visarga kala (dakshinayana) or southern solstice. This division is done according to the position of the sun. Adan means taking away and visarga means giving. In adan kala, the sun and wind are powerful. The sun takes away the strength of the people and the cooling qualities of the earth. It is the depleting period and therefore strength is weakened. In visarga kala, the sun releases the strength to the people. The moon is more powerful, the Shishira, Cold & Dewy Vasanta, Springtime Grishma, Summertime earth becomes cool due to the clouds, rain and cold wind. Winters, summers and monsoons are the prime seasons for the ripening of during these seasons. An Indian year consists of six ritus or seasons. atmosphere is cool, high-energy foods are recommended during SPRING, VASANTA: Mid-March to mid-May is the spring sea- fruits and blooming of vegetables, hence we get the best farm pro- Each ritu is of two masas or months. Three ritus (one semester) form this season. Tastes recommended are pungent, sour and sweet. Con- son, the months called Chitra and Vaisakha. The fi re element in our duce during these three seasons. The other seasons are transition a kala. suming these foods increases digestive activity. For example, foods body is very active during this time, hence foods that are cooling in periods between these three, which help us to accustom ourselves COLD & DEWY, SHISHIRA: It extends from mid-January to such as whole grains, wheat, gram fl our, corn, jaggery and tamarind nature should be consumed. Astringent, sour and salty tastes should to the nature of Mother Earth. Major adaptation of weather happens mid-March, Magha and Phalguna on the Indian calendar. As the should be included in the meal. be included, which are easily digestible—for instance, radish, cabbage,

44 hinduism today april/may/june, 2016 april/may/june, 2016 hinduism today 45 to , the feeling of ultimate elixir. Nine Feelings and Foods that Aff ect Them You must feed yourself and others with love and joy. Rasa hilosophy of indian gastronomy and science of ADBHUTA, WONDER: It is raja- ayurveda are continuously affected by the play of fi ve ele- sic in nature and dominated by the ments and fi ve senses, which further affects our food and bile humor. These are the foods that vital energies. The word rasa also means the sense make one wonder about their origin of feelings and emotions. Feelings are the important link between and production. It is influenced by body, mind and soul, which further affects our thoughts and emo- various other senses. A new taste, a tions. Rasa is also the essence of the feelings that excite both body different aroma, an unlikely feel, a and mind. We recognize nine feelings: love (shringara), joy (hasya), distinctive sight, a novel sound or a wonder (adbhuta), calmness (shanta), anger (), courage (virya), crunch makes one wonder about the Fear Love sadness (karuna), fear (bhaya) and disgust (vi bhasta). In studying the food that is being consumed. A new nine feelings/emotions, it is found that each has basic expressions in combination of varied ingredients both ancient and modern times. Each feeling has clear relationships, that were probably not experienced allowing us to strengthen or weaken one feeling through another. earlier makes one wonder about the Interestingly, the nine feelings are all interrelated. permutation and combination. Tast- Water is the primary element of love, courage, sadness and disgust. ing such food provokes the feeling Fire element dominates joy, wonder and anger. Calmness and fear are of wonder in oneself, and in that affi liated with air. The three humors, or doshas, are kapha (constitut- moment the complete knowledge of ing water and earth), pitta (constituting fi re and air) and vata (air and the ingredients is experienced. Joy Courage Calmness ether). It is through the understanding of these humors, or doshas, shutterstock all images: SHANTI, CALMNESS: The ele- that energies can be balanced through our diet. When all three are ment for the feeling of calmness is in balance, each produces certain energies which are important for into a mode in which the small becomes beautiful, where dainty air. It is sattvic in nature. Sometimes the functioning of our bodies. When in imbalance, they create the and mushy feelings overtake the larger canvas of life. Food should be calmness brings a lot of joy, and this feelings of sadness, disgust, anger and fear. moderate, diverse, in small portions and with bright color, like saf- combination of feelings is very pious. Together with the fi ve elements and three gunas we get multifold fron and the pink of rhubarb. With moderate tasting, the fulfi llment Through food, too, one can attain energies. Sattva stands for clarity, understanding and healing. Rajas of a desire lasts longer and is more effective. Tasting rather than eat- calmness. Calming foods include stands for inspiration, activity and pain. Tamas stands for draft, dark- ing is the essence of romance. honey, tulsi leaves, curd and soaked ness and attachment. Each guna is related to certain feelings—sattva: HASYA, JOY: Joy is a divine feeling, and is dominated by the fi re almonds. For food’s best effect on calmness; rajas: love, joy, wonder, courage, sadness and anger; tamas: element. It is rajasic in nature. The feeling of joy is healthy and reju- one’s body, mind and soul, it should disgust and fear. venating. It reduces anger, depression and tension and produces fl u- be consumed in a calm state of mind. Wonder Sadness Anger Food senses and savors are the primary channels that affect the ids which aid in digestion. The food that brings out good memories This is so because, when we are calm, body, mind and soul. The effect of food on the feelings depends on of the past is generally consumed when one is joyful and happy. It a particular chemical is released by the action—taste, power of digestion and post digestive action. is also true that joy, when combined with love, takes every human the brain, and this chemical reaction SHRINGARA, LOVE: Here love and also means the aes- between the food and mind further soothes our nerves. immediately cools down anger. Anger has a strong ability of self- thetic sentiments, sense of looking good, and a feeling of romantic RUDRA, ANGER: This is one of the emotions wherein ego destruction. Traditionally, drinking water kept in a silver glass over- atmosphere enhanced by love and harmony. Ayurveda considers Our complex nature: (above) Ayurveda was teaching about body, becomes extremely dominant. Anger is rajasic and is of the fi re ele- night is known to best cool down anger. Hunger creates irritability, shringara as rajasic. While in love, we experience every emotion in mind and spirit long before it became a Western fad; (right) the nine ment. The dominance of the fi re element due to anger makes the but a taste of sweet reduces the biles produced by the liver. Green a fi ne taste. During the spring season, the feelings of love and emo- classical emotions discussed in ayurveda and acted out in Indian body high with acidity. This causes sickness, such as cardiovascu- cardamom will turn the bio-chemistry to alkaline, reducing acidity tion are at their peak. While experiencing love, the body transforms dance lar diseases, and impairs eyesight. Drinking several glasses of water and thus anger. Yogurt and whole lime juice, extracted with skin and

barley, honey, sandalwood, etc. SUMMER, GRISHMA: The summer months, falling in the period mid-May to mid-July, months known as Jyestha and Ashadha. Sweet, sour and bitter food should be consumed to make up for mineral and water loss. In summers, more fruits and vegeta- bles should be taken, while reducing the quantities of whole grains. Light and liquidy food should be preferred; for example, gourds, mango, curd, boiled rice, honey, dates, cardamom, turmeric, etc. MONSOON, VARSHA: The season extends from mid-July to mid-September, the months of Sravana and Bhadrapada. As this is the rainy season, foods that are salty, sour and sweet in nature should be preferred. During this season, the digestive activity starts decreas- Varsha, Monsoons Sharada, Autumn Hemanta, Winter ing, hence heavy food should not be consumed. Foods like pulses, grains, buttermilk, etc., should be included in the meal. and spinach should be included. One should avoid having curd- should be preferred. During the winters, one should eat less fruit, correct food, if consumed in the respective season, maintains one’s AUTUMN, SHARADA: Mid-September to mid-November are based foods. because fruit makes one feel cooler. Foods like ginger, pepper, jaggery, health and is savored, is relished, to the fullest. the autumn months of Ashvini and Kartika. The onset of winter WINTER, HEMANTA: The winter months, from mid-Novem- carrots, etc., should be consumed. With a menu that maximizes seasonal resources, a good chef will exposes the body to a cool environment, which can be controlled by ber to mid-January, are known as Margashirsa and Pausa, according Not only does this knowledge of seasons and their corresponding use to produce dishes that are appealing, nutritious and consuming sweet, salty and astringent foods. The atmosphere is dry to the Indian calendar. The fi re element in the body is quite dimin- tastes give us an insight into availability of food items, but also edu- healthy. and arid; hence foods like green gram, amala, honey, pomegranate ished because of the cold. Therefore, sweet, sour and pungent foods cates us and exhorts us to do creative and just menu planning. The

46 hinduism today april/may/june, 2016 april/may/june, 2016 hinduism today 47 . 4. Before cooking, he washes hisfeet andhands andperforms the purifying rites. Characteristics of aChef 1. 1. A chef should bevigilant, well-versed inscience, 2. 2. A chef iscalm,controlled, generous, 5. 5. Knowing the program of hisdiners, he arranges tooffer the 3. 3. He isof measured words, kind,charitable andhasknowledge of who need the bodilyenergy toretain their power of determination. dominated by the water element. When sad,one should eat food anger are alkaline innature. and israjasic innature. Thus, itiskapha(mucous) people who are ing of courage. Asound mind andbalancedbodyare alsoprerequi- meat. Avery highprotein dietisrecommended tomaintain the feel- Foods inthiscategory are spicesandfats, andfor nonvegetarians, most likely todevelop courage. Thisisanelement found inwarriors, fect control of bodyandmind.The emotion isdominated by water seeds, alsohave acooling effect. Fo sites tohaving courage. shutterstock 48 VIRYA, COURAGE: KARUNA, SADNESS: clean anddevoted his diners andserves their specialdishes in proper order.

appropriate dishes. Likewise, he isaware of the uniquedietsof chinmaya international residential school metals, seasons andthe conditions of people according totheir age. a pure smile. He isdevoted andwithpure thoughts. idimtdy april/may/june, 2016 hinduism today Written by Nala, afamous legendary kingwho authored India’s fi rst known cookbook inthe (kshema kutahala) Thisrasa relates toinner strength withper- Thisemotion israjasic innature and ods recommended for reducing fi fth century ce, fi t tobe honored andhas .

shutterstock Nal’s Pakshastra Astringent andbitter-tasting foods ous spreading of toxins produced by rotting food inthe intestines counteract fear, one canincrease the intake of fresh fruitsandjuices. makes itimpossible todevelop istry must become more alkaline toreduce the feeling of fear. To in tasteandnature help inrelieving such feelings. The bodychem- tion oftion the blood, aswell asthe production of digestive juicesand protein synthesis. emotional facial expressionswhich areavital partoftheir ; (below) agoodchef isvirtuous,fastidious andhappy(belowright) vegetarian biryani Expressions:

shutterstock (above)Hindu dancers inBali displaythree ofthe While inthisstate of mind,one should explore This emotion comes underthe airelement. Consti- This istasteof akasha,or ether. People falling under vata tendtobecome fearful more easilyascompared within oneself the real cause of karuna.Hence you high sugar content should beconsumed. That gives cose isthe mainfood for our brains, which acceler- energy andpeps upthe mood; foods like potatoes, element air. Its speedsthe heartbeat andthe breath- ates itsproper itisimportant functioning, toinclude as endorphins andother opiates, which help reduce remove fear. Pure ignorance leads tono fear at all. ness andanxiety. Courage, joy, love andcalmness to kaphaor pittapeople. Eating khamira, madefrom the bodyandproduce happy neurotransmitters such that bringscomfort tomindandbody. Food should rice, butter, lemon, candysugar, jaggery andhoney. fear anddisgust allare related tothe tamasicnature. ing rate. Ametallic tastecanbesensedinthe mouth. many harms. Fear israjasic anddominated by the sugar inone’s dailydiet.Low sugar causes nervous- stress andlead tofeelings of euphoria. Food with shall beable to be consumed that would release the anxietyfrom pure pearls, helps inrelieving fear. Assugar or glu- pation isamajor cause of thisfeeling. The continu- VIBHASTA, DISGUST: BHAYA, FEAR: fi fi ner feelings. Spicesthat are pungent ght andbeawinner. Fear isthe natural protector from will help the liver indetoxi Prolonged sadness, anger, fi ca- Why Is Ayurveda not Wholly Vegetarian? This rishi-style life isrecommended for Those familiar aspartof with ayurveda all, promotes vegetarianism avidly. To achara rasayana vances) of , including ,(non- shed lightonthis, Pandit Vamadeva by spiritual practice mightbepuzzled Samhita, not beincluded. this, perhapsthinking that meat should provides the following explanation. hurtfulness), meaning vegetarianism. lifestyle, which consists of allthe optimal healthoptimal for all. and (restraints andobser- and dairybased.It iscombined with rasayana ter of the people, including those not yet ready for Ayurveda’s rejuvenation therapy, However, ayurveda isfor all levels of Gastronomy (from whichGastronomy this (from Insight tarian recipesaswellmeatdishes. n hisayurvedic cookbook,indian is drawn),ChefGillprovidesvege- , asdiscussedinthe ispurely herbal, vegetarian Chikitsa Sthana Hinduism Today I.4.,or rejuvenating of of fi rst chap- Charaka , after

shutterstock

andcookStir ghee masalatill startssurfacing;• continuously As soon asthe spicesstartspluttering, add• turmeric powder Take• ghee inawok andplace on medium heat, add in Place on highheat, add• saltandbringtoboil. Reduce heat Pick, wash andsoakthe chickpeas• overnight in6cupsof water. Serve garnished withchopped• mint. A dish from HimachalA dishfrom Pradesh inwhich chickpeas arecooked Chana Madra Chana A SAMPLERECIPE FROM in curdwith aromaticspices. Recipe byAnkshaJoshi Saigal. with the sugar, cashews, almonds, grated coconut andraisins. fennel, andadd stir alittle saltwhile sauteing. the bay leaf, black andgreen cardamom, cinnamon and to medium low andlet itcook until tenderandsoft. Check seasoning andlet itcook for 10-12minutes. stir. Now add the boiled chickpeas tothe boiling liquid,along forstir afew seconds then quickly add inthe whisked curd. pi/a/ue 06 hinduism today april/may/june, 2016 1 tspfennel seeds 1 cupchickpeas 2 cinnamon 1”long sticks, 2 black cardamoms 2 bay leaves 2 tbspdesighee To serve 4to5 3 podsgreen cardamom SECRETS OFINDIANGASTRONOMY ever, for ayurveda spiritualpractices, etarianism for sacred events). cally, Hindu hunted and dayas. Butitdoesnot exclude anyone etarianism, anditisrequired for cer- overall. Hinduism recommends veg- ayurveda explains the of qualities ate meat (though they veg- practiced and Bengal, often eat fish.Histori- and alsosomewhat inKashmirand recommends vegetarianism. their intake isleast harmful.How- to consume them anyway, sothat meat and nated by rajas andtamas. Assuch, the spirituallife, who are domi- still Kerala. Those living by the ocean, the Himalayas andthe Eastof India, eatties meat, particularly those in not beaHindu ifthey eat meat! for eating meat, or say that they can- tain sadhanasandby certainsampra- particularly inKerala, Tamil Nadu A number of Hindu communi- The same istrueof Hindu 1 tspsugar 2 mint leaves, chopped 2 tbspraisins 2 tspturmeric powder 3 cupscurd, whisked 8-10 almonds 8-10 cashews salt totaste fi sh for those who are likely 49