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Tourism and Gastronomy Tourism and Gastronomy In recent years, a growing emphasis has been placed on tourism experiences and attractions related to food. In many cases eating out while on holiday includes the ‘consumption’ of a local heritage, comparable to what is experienced when visiting historical sites and museums. Despite this increasing attention, however, systematic research on the subject has been nearly absent. Tourism and Gastronomy addresses this by drawing together a group of international experts in order to develop a better understanding of the role, development and future of gastronomy and culinary heritage in tourism. Particular attention is paid to the relationship between the forces of globali- sation, localisation and the use of gastronomy and to food as a source of regional and national identity, and a source of economic development. The first part of the book discusses important issues in the relationship between tourism and gastronomy, introducing the themes important to the understanding of case studies. The second part presents a wide range of case studies of gastron- omy tourism development, featuring development programmes, marketing activities and networking between tourism and agriculture. The case studies, drawn from a range of countries, including Australia, New Zealand, Singapore, Spain, Portugal, Greece, Italy, Scotland and Wales, are used to explore further themes, including intellectual property and sustainability Students and researchers in the areas of tourism, heritage, hospitality, hotel management and catering will find this book an extremely valuable source of information. Anne-Mette Hjalager is an independent consultant and contract researcher based in the Science Park in Aarhus, Denmark. Over the past ten years she has worked intensively with and for the tourism industry and she has keenly pursued labour market and innovation issues. She also advises the Danish government and the EU in policy planning for tourism. Greg Richards lectures in leisure studies at Tilburg University in the Nether- lands. He is co-ordinator of the Association for Tourism and Leisure Education (ATLAS) and has led a number of EU projects in the fields of tourism education, cultural tourism, sustainable tourism, tourism employment, conference tourism and ICT in tourism. His main research interest is cultural tourism. Contents List of illustrations vii List of contributors viii Preface xii Acknowledgements xiv PART I The relationship between tourism and gastronomy 1 Gastronomy: an essential ingredient in tourism production and consumption? 3 GREG RICHARDS 2 A typology of gastronomy tourism 21 ANNE-METTE HJALAGER 3 Demand for the gastronomy tourism product: motivational factors 36 KEVIN FIELDS 4 Gastronomy as a tourist product: the perspective of gastronomy studies 51 ROSARIO SCARPATO 5 Tourism as a force for gastronomic globalization and localization 71 MICHAEL HALL AND RICHARD MITCHELL PART II Issues in gastronomic tourism development 6 On the trail of regional success: tourism, food production and the Isle of Arran Taste Trail 91 STEVEN BOYNE, FIONA WILLIAMS AND DEREK HALL vi Contents 7 ‘A Taste of Wales – Blas Ar Gymru’: institutional malaise in promoting Welsh food tourism products 115 ANDREW JONES AND IAN JENKINS 8 Sustainable gastronomy as a tourist product 132 ROSARIO SCARPATO 9 Gastronomy and intellectual property 153 NEIL RAVENSCROFT AND JETSKE VAN WESTERING 10 The route to quality: Italian gastronomy networks in operation 166 MAGDA ANTONIOLI CORIGLIANO 11 The changing nature of the relationship between cuisine and tourism in Australia and New Zealand: from fusion cuisine to food networks 186 MICHAEL HALL AND RICHARD MITCHELL 12 Regional food cultures: integral to the rural tourism product? 207 SEAN BEER, JONATHAN EDWARDS, CARLOS FERNANDES AND FRANCISCO SAMPAIO 13 Still undigested: research issues in tourism and gastronomy 224 ANNE-METTE HJALAGER AND GREG RICHARDS Index 235 Illustrations Figures 1.1 Relating consumption and production in gastronomy tourism experiences 19 5.1 The interrelationship of factors in the development of foodways 73 5.2 Three waves of food change in industrial society 74 5.3 Factors affecting culinary change 78 6.1 Fourfold classification of tourism and food interrelationships with sub-themes 93 7.1 Taste of Wales logo 119 7.2 Initiative re-launched: co-ordination between Welsh Development Agency (WDA) and the Wales Tourist Board (WTB) 120 7.3 Sainsbury’s campaign to promote local Welsh produce 127 10.1 Supply components of the wine and gastronomic tourism system 169 10.2 Interactions among wine and gastronomic tourism actors in Italy 176 11.1 The local food system 188 11.2 Relationship between national, regional and local strategies 197 11.3 Creating different supply chains and local food systems 202 12.1 The interrelationship of food production systems, landscape, hospitality, gastronomy and tourist attractions 212 13.1 An epistemological framework for tourism and gastronomy research 228 Tables 2.1 Typology of value added in gastronomy tourism 33 5.1 What New York Times restaurant critics are eating 80 11.1 Overview history of Australian and New Zealand foodways 189 12.1 Hjalager’s value added hierarchy as applied to current initiatives in south west England and northern Portugal 218 Contributors Magda Antonioli Corigliano has a B.Sc. in Economics from Bocconi Uni- versity (Milan) and an M.Sc. in Financial Economics from the UNCNW (UK). She is Professor of Economic Theory and Policy and Professor of Economics of Tourism and the Behaviour of Firms at Bocconi University, where she is also responsible for the tourism activities of the Research Centre for Tourism and Regional and Transport Economics (CERTET). She is Visiting Professor of Environmental Economics at Kyoto University (Japan), of Tourism Eco- nomics and Policy at the ESADE (Barcelona, Spain), of Economics of the European Union and Tourism Economics within the European Studies Pro- gramme of the University of Chulalongkorn (Bangkok, Thailand). She is also the author of various studies on industrial economics and the economics of tourism and of the environment. Sean Beer has a B.Sc. in agriculture from Reading, a Dip. Ag. Sci. from Massey University, in New Zealand, and a Cert. Ed. from Wolverhampton, as well as considerable practical experience in agriculture and marketing. He is cur- rently Senior Lecturer in agriculture at the Centre for Land-Based Studies at Bournemouth University. His current research interests include retailing and the food supply chain, marketing and co-operation in agriculture, small family farms, the producer/consumer relationship, hill and upland farming, education and curriculum development. Steven Boyne is a researcher within the Leisure and Tourism Management Department of SAC (the Scottish Agricultural College). His work centres on issues relating to the development of tourism in rural areas, particularly in the Scottish context. Currently he is involved in research relating to tourism com- munity relationships; tourism, food and gastronomy and skills and training issues for small tourism businesses. He maintains an ongoing interest in research theory and in VFR (visiting friends and relatives) tourism. Jonathan Edwards is Head of the Centre for Land-Based Studies at the Uni- versity of Bournemouth and he has been involved in a number of co-operative training and research initiatives concerned with the agri-food industries in western and eastern Europe. His research interests relate to the development and diversification of rural economies particularly in regard to the develop- Contributors ix ment of the service sector. He has worked extensively in Portugal and has witnessed and written upon the changes that affected Portugal’s rural areas following their accession to the European Community. Carlos Fernandes is an assistant professor in the Tourism Course at the Poly- technic Institute of Viana do Castelo (Portugal). He completed his BA at Syracuse University (USA), his MA at Rutgers University (USA) and is cur- rently enrolled in the Ph.D. programme at Bournemouth University (UK). Research interests include tourism as a strategy for local development and cultural tourism. He has participated in numerous EU projects related to tourism, presented papers at major international tourism conferences and published widely in the English and Portuguese languages. Kevin Fields has lectured for the past eleven years in hospitality and tourism- related subjects at Birmingham College of Food and Tourism. He is also programme manager for BA (Hons) Hospitality and Food Management. Derek Hall is Professor of Regional Development and Head of the Leisure and Tourism Management Department of SAC (the Scottish Agricultural College). He has undertaken a wide variety of research relating to tourism and rural and regional development including work in socialist and post-socialist countries. Additionally, Derek has research interests relating to the role of animals in tourism; tourism and transport; gender and welfare dimensions in tourism. His Ph.D. was focused on perception and evaluation of local community. Michael Hall is Professor and Head of the Department of Tourism at the University of Otago in New Zealand. He is also co-editor of Current Issues in Tourism and Chairperson of the International Geographical Union Study Group on Tourism, Leisure and Social Change. He has published widely on areas relating to tourism, heritage and environmental history. Current research interests include tourism as a component of economic restructuring,
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