E U Q I B M A Z O M S A L T A D A O R MOZAMBIQUE

INCLUDES NEWGPS CO-ORDINATES

0860 10 50 50 www.mapstudio.co.za ROAD ATLAS

ity Maps

1st Edition © Map Studio™ 2009 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be Qual reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, electrostatic, magnetic tape, SINCE 1958 mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission in writing from the Copyright owner. Map Studio and the MapStudio device are trademarked to New Holland Publishing (South Africa) (Pty) Ltd TRAVEL ISBN 978-1-77026-030-6

PERFECT FOR THE FIRST TIME VISITOR E COLOUR PHOTOS DETAILED CONTINUOUS MAP SECTION E STREET MAPS TOURIST AREAS E SITES E PLACE NAMES INDEX 9 781770 260306 CONTACT INFO E SMALL TOWNS E RESERVES NATIONAL PARKS ROUTE PLANNER www.mapstudio.co.za E Cover image supplied by ACTIVITIES HOT SPOTS HISTORY IMAGES OF AFRICA www.imagesofafrica.co.za E E Ian Michler GPS CO-ORDINATES MOZAMBIQUE Contents Contents Contents Content

Mozambique flag

INTRODUCTION 4 CENTRAL REGION 46 General 6 Beira 48 Parks and Reserves 8 Beira Corridor 49 History 10 Gorongosa National Park 50 Activities 12 Tete 52 Getting Around 14 Zambezi Delta 53 Quelimane 54 TOURIST REGIONS 16 Quelimane & Surrounds 55 Gili Reserve 56 MAPUTO REGION 18 Nampula 57 Highlights 20 Cuamba 59 Maputo 22 Mozambique Island 60 Maputaland 24 Maputo Bay & South 26 NORTHERN REGION 62 Maputo Elephant Reserve 28 Pemba 64 Bilene 30 Ibo 65 Chokwe & Surrounds 31 Mocímboa da Praia 66 Quirimba Archipelago 67 SOUTHERN REGION 32 Quirimba Archipelago South 68 Xai-Xai & Praia do Xai-Xai 34 Quirimba Archipelago North 70 Great Limpopo Transfrontier Niassa Reserve 72 Reserve 36 Lichinga Area 74 Zinave & Banhine National Parks 38 Inhambane & Surrounds 40 Vilankulo 42 MAIN MAP PAGES 76 Inhambane Coast & Tofo 43 Bazaruto Archipelago 44 INDEX 107 RESOURCES 109 3 Bazaruto Archipelago Bazaruto Arc

WHAT THE ISLANDS OFFER •Ilha do Bazaruto Can be visited by twin-engined aircraft or boat; Bazaruto Lodge and Indigo Bay Hotel offer sheer style and island luxury; the farol do Bazaruto still flashes its warning signals out to sea. •Ilha de Benguerra A tract of indigenous dune forest promises superlative birdwatching and a series of brack-water lakes in which crocodiles secretly lurk is surrounded by beautiful shifting dunes that change colour with the light. Benguerra Island and Marlin Lodge – the latter built of Mozambican hardwoods and elevated on stilts – will ensure sweet dreams. •Ilha de Magaruque Catch a dhow to here or take a ski-boat transfer. Stroll on deserted beaches, or snorkel or scuba dive in the deep channel that runs offshore a short swim from the beach. Low tide exposes a multitude of pansy shells (one endemic to Mozambique) and dolphins surf along the coastline. •Ilha de Santa Carolina Boats ferry visitors from Vilankulos and Inhassoro to this isolated place of intense natural beauty. The hotel here is not operational so island visitors need to carry Lighthouse on Bazaruto Island a plentiful supply of water. BAZARUTO NATIONAL PARK FISHING Paradise lost, nirvana … the powdery feel Marlin fishing of sand between your toes, the shadows of (prime season is Oct–Dec) whispering palms playing out on white Black, blue and striped marlin beaches, aquamarine-cerulean water lapping Large gamefish the shore – this is what fills your vision (Apr/May–Aug/Sep) when you trip onto one of the five islands Sailfish, giant kingfish, wahoo, king mackerel, making up the archipelago. The largest is dorado, bonito Bazaruto – some 30km (18 miles) by roughly Smaller gamefish 3km (2 miles) – and the tiniest Bangué. In- (year-round) between, Benguerra, Magaruque and Santa King mackerel, bonito, trevally, queen Carolina (or Paradise Island) can all be mackerel visited. Rock & surf fishing In 2000 the Bazaruto National Park officially (evening high tide) consisted of a 150km2 marine park Kingfish, bonito, bonefish, gars encompassing Benguerra, Magaruque and Note: Tag and release fishing is the usual Bangué islands, together with a 5km (3- policy. mile) buffer zone around them. Bazaruto and Santa Carolina were listed as special BIRDLIFE vigilance zones, although plans were afoot (+/-164 different species) to incorporate these into the national park Green coucal in the future. The focus, in the meanwhile, Green pigeon is on allowing tourist development that Purple-banded and black sunbird benefits the islanders but also protects the Olive bee-eater ecology of the region and preserves selected Mannikin coral reefs. Paradise fly-catcher Park entry tickets must be purchased before Bartailed godwit visiting – try the Vilankulos WWF office or Whimbrel any registered tour operator. A small fee is Crab plover payable if you arrive on your own boat; no camping allowed on the islands. 44 Archipelago Bazaruto Archipelago Baza

Ponta Dom Carlos Cabo Bazaruto H Hotel Seta Inhassoro Pestana Bazaruto Dhows Island Lodge Bazaruto EN1 Lighthouse Complexo Salema Mufundisse Chibique Ponta Estone Ponta Nhangosse

Ponta Inhassoro Ponta Zenguelema (Park HQ) Guniça

Ilha de Santa Carolina Guniça Dunes (Paradise Island) Ponta Tondo Ilha do Bazaruto

Ponta Goane Ponta Gengareme o BábèLagoa Marsh

g Nhassasse

a Indigo Bay Island Resort H Ponta Chilola l Indigo Bay e Crocodiles

p Lagoa

i Ponta Múlideza Lergue

Ponta Inhangondo h

c Bazaruto

r National Park

A Ponta Pangaia

Ponta Chuambo o Two Mile Chuambo t Reef

u Ponta Dundo r Ponta Muanha Pansy a Island

z Ilha de Canal De Moçambique a Benguerra SÓ VEICULOS TODO-TERRENO

B Ponta Dundo

Ponta Chinhongue Benguela Island Lodge Azura Lodge

Marlin Lodge

Ponta Cúbuê Ponta Cheringomo Ponta Comuine Inhambane Ponta Duvini

Ilha de Magaruque Vilanculos Beach Lodge Ponta Chué

Dona Ana H

Ilha de N EN1 19 2 Vilankulo Bangué BAIA PARAISO, BLUE WATERS Casa Josef & Tina NOT TO SCALE 45 Central Region Central Region Centr

CRY ME A RIVER River of legend and intrepid exploration, the Zambezi neatly bisects the country into two halves: the more popular and, today, much- visited southern region (due to its accessibility from both Zimbabwe and South Africa) and the remoter and sometimes impenetrable northern region, influenced more by Malawi 42 Tourist region maps and Tanzania. Mozambique’s destructive Cóbuè 2001 floods, which prevented the Caia ferry Gam from running for weeks, have reinforced the 46 Chapter opener maps Zambezi’s uncanny knack for creating formidable barriers to movement into the Point of interest Lichinga north. Flowing dead centre as it does across this sector of the country, this powerful waterway is kingpin of the Central Region. Cassacatiza NATURE ON THE REBOUND Lisula Mozambique’s central sector embraces three conservation areas within its fold, the most important of which is Gorongosa. Today battered and bruised from its civil-war role Panhame Zóbuè as headquarters for the Rhodesian-backed 103 Milange Renamo resistance movement, it is most Tete 52 heartening that in late 2007 an official wildlife count showed an unusually high number of ungulate species (sable, and Changara ) and a surprisingly rich nocturnal- Canxixe Mo life, including smaller carnivores. 102 Gili is still wild and untamed (yet with great potential) and Marromeu, on the Zambezi Inhamitanga delta, is receiving much attention for its prolific waterbirds – although its previously Gorongosa Gorongosa National 50 much-vaunted buffalo herds will take a while Park to return to their original numbers. Ga Chimoio EN6 A BRIDGE TOO FAR Travel north across the Central Region is 48 controlled by the vagaries of the Zambezi Espungabera Beira and the country’s long months of summer EN1 rain, mainly from November to April, which tend to swell countless rivers and transform Bazaruto Island the sandy, dusty, corrugated roads into a Zinave nightmarish quagmire. Which is why nothing National Park else but a 4x4 is recommended to take you Chicualacuala Mabote into these parts. Your options of crossing Vilankulo the Zambezi are few – the impressive Banhine suspension bridge at the heat-pit of Tete National town, the converted (in 1998) railway bridge Great Park EN1 between Sena and Morrumbula (although Limpopo Transfrontier very bad tracks at either end make it Reserve questionable) and the 22-ton vehicle ferries Inhambane at Caia, where it’s essential you sink lazily Macarretane into Africa time. The good news is that 2009 is the scheduled completion date for the construction of an US$85 million bridge. EN1 Xai-Xai EN4 Namaacha MAPUTO Reserva de Maputo (Maputo Elephant Reserve) Ponta do Ouro 46 entral Region Central Region Central R

BEIRA … RELIVE THE MEMORIES The two attractions most likely to catch the attention of travellers to this neck of the Namuiranga Mozambican woods are the port city of Beira (despite these days being distinctly shabby) Negomano Mocímboa and the fascinating historical offshore isle, da Praia Ilha de Moçambique (yes, old, crumbling and ruined but oh, so slowly rising like a è Niassa Mueda phoenix out of the ashes). Many Game Reserve Mecula Zimbabweans and maybe some South Pemba Africans have fond memories of the good old days in Beira, eating spicy pink prawns ga at Johnny’s Place, dancing till dawn at the Montepuez Moulin Rouge or sipping espresso and eating Marrupa sweet custard pastries on the European-feel central square. These old haunts still exist, Fernão though not in their original guise – yet Beira Cuamba 59 Veloso may still shake off its shabby exterior, fluff out its tail feathers and glitter once more… 57 Nampula Mozambique WORTH ITS WEIGHT IN CORAL RAG Its cultural and architectural heritage a fusion Alto Molócuè 60 of Persian, Arabian, Indian, African and Portuguese flavours, Mozambique Island Gili 56 enraptures most visitors. Dubbed Africa’s Reserve Angoche ‘meeting point of civilisations’, it does, however, present stark contrasts between Mocuba Pebane modern and old. There is great charm in the centuries-old architecture but there is also Quelimane 54 N great poverty in the island’s village, Barrio A Makúti, where the local people live in scruffy E thatch-and-reed huts, draw fresh water daily Zambezi Delta 53 C O from the old underground cisterns at the Marromeu San Sebastian fort, and use the beaches for Game Reserve N their ablutions. A I Central Region 46 D N I ruto nd

47 Beira Beira Beira Beira Beira Beira B

As Mozambique’s second largest city after Visitors of old will be sad to witness the Maputo, Beira has definitely seen better abandoned crumbling edifices of the onetime days. In its heyday, before the civil war and elegant Estoril and Dom Carlos hotels, but independence, it was a holiday mecca for heartened to find that the Moulin Rouge travellers from Rhodesia (Zimbabwe today) with its trademark red windmill still exists, and South Africa. Then, its position at the as does Clube Oceana on the beachfront – mouth of the Púngoè and Búzi rivers had and even Johnny’s Place, once legendary transformed it into a busy ocean port, for its platters of peri-peri prawns. Where particularly since, for the British colony based once the Moulin Rouge hosted wild partying in Rhodesia, Beira was their closest harbour and all-night dancing, today it’s a lively link. Today drab, dirty and rundown, what lunchtime venue for the locals and their remains is a neglected port city. It has the families who eat at long communal tables, potential, though, to see a resurrection in filling the place with noise and laughter. the future as its town centre resonates with Pique Nique oozes class and is among Beira’s a distinct Iberian-cum-European air and the best, while Clube Nautico on the shoreline long curve of Macúti beach is as picturesque turns out great seafood and chips. To as ever, with its landmark rusty shipwreck recapture the old Portuguese-style vibrations, (the Macúti) and red-and-white banded head for the central square, Praça do lighthouse, still in perfect nick. Municipio, and sip an espresso at a pavement café set beneath shady trees.

EN6, DONDO, CHIMOIO, Doca de MARTIERESINCHOPE, MASSANGANO ZIMBABWE MINHO Barcos Estação DOURO Pequenos Beira TRAS-OS-MONTES Shoprite Railway Station BASE N'TCHINGA Supermarket Red TRABALHADORES AV. DE MAIO ALGARVE Cross SQUARE Cemetery Infanta Sagres House NEVES FERREIRA ARMANDO TIVANE Long Distance CAP. P RAMOS BAGAMOYO è MAPUTO Bus Terminus o A g POPULAR n Arcadia H PODER SOFALA ú P Hotel GEN. VIEIRA DA ROCHA LAWLEY Portuguese BEIRA BAIXA ALFREDO Beira A DE MELO Cultural Centre SAMORA MACHEL O VERDE H Mozambique CAB Cinema NDE INE O RESE GU METICAL A DO CANT SQUARE Bus BAGAMOYO Portugal House MAJOR TerminalSERPA Goto Market (T'Shungamoyo) PINTO Maquinino

RUA DE PA CABRAL ARMANDO TIVANE Municipal Square CONTINUADORES SQUARE J DE DEUS Mercado do Infante H H Embaixador Maquinino Bicos House Cinema Central Market Savoy DA QJM AIRES DE ORNELASSQUARE Praia Nova A CASTILHO H Campo de Golfe MOUZINHO DE Chiveve (New Beach) ALBUQUERQUE Clube Chinés Market Clube de Golfe Cathedral of our E S T Lady of the Rosary E V A GENERAL MACHADO O Observatory PADRE RM ASSUNCAO D Library E AT Ship Graveyard AI Cinema DE FILIPE

CORREIRA DE BRITO SAMUEL MAGAIA SANCHA TOAR EDUARDO MONDLANE

MOUZINHO DE ALBUQUERQUE Military Zone

(Zona Militar) COM. GALVÃO No Entry Zimbabwean ANDRADE COR VO RENATO BATISTAEmbassy AFONSO DE PA N IVA H VF DES UES SA ROMEM Miramar Hotel Grande MAT NSÃO SERPA PINTO MU H M 500 (Derelict) TEMBA I ND Clube Oceana Yd 500 IAN OCEAN

48 a Beira Corridor Beira Corridor Beira C

Mavonde COMACHE, GURO, TETE CAIA Gorongosa Km 50 Watsomba Gorongosa Odzani Stapleford MOZAMBIQUE 22 NP Mi 68 25 Falls Penhalonga RUSAPE Mutare Cultural Centre Púngoè Nota 32 Manica33 20 213 Nova Vanduzi 18 Chitengo Muanza 13 Casa 12 Weigh Msika v Gondola Bué Drift Chinizvia Border Hours Bandula Bridge 40 Maria 64 (Low-water Forest 06:00 – 18:00 22 Inchope Crossing only) 30 Hot 74 Chicamba Chimoio EN6 Nhamatanda Semacueza Springs Barragem de 216 Chicamba Real Muda H 82 Macuácua 70 29 Tsetsserra Muda A9 Exit Only (No Customs) 37 Cashel EN1 MASVINGO Revué 441 Mavita 62 Dondo Dokodoko Rotanda 45 Rio 1214 m 96 N 28 Savane Rock Paintings 214214 EN6 Monte Binga Revué Nyanyadzi 2436 m Chimanimani Nova Almada Buzi Chimanimani NP 60 431 20 Beira ZIMBABWE CHIBOMA Dombe 10 Tonne Ferry Bandua Manica h

24 DE JULHO

JO ÃO B FREI JOÃO MADEIRA AT IST A IG REJA 25 de Junho AIRPORT

MAJOR C Commercial School MONTEIRO FERNÃO VELOSO Samora Machel ALFREDO LAWLEY Secondary School PERO DA COVILHÃ

CAPITÃO PAIS RAMOS COM. C DA SILVA ALFREDO CC BRANCO LAWLEY PERO DA COVILHÃ

O A HERCULANO

R

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Q N T COELHO U J L COELHO G

JOÃO DA NOVA

FERNAO LOPES DE CASTANHEDA JOÃO SEPULVEDA

Maquinio Market

24 DE JULHO MACÚTI

IA ÈL AM R O C TO R B A O P E P R I R S T IA Ã T Clube D E O B S da Beira I BRITO CAPELO V D

E

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S INDEPÉNDENCIA O JOAO QUIERO

SQUARE F AV.

A DE NAPULA L

SPORTING A

Lighthouse in Beira 49 Gorongosa National Park Gorongosa

GETTING THERE To make your bookings or garner updated information on Gorongosa, visit their offices in Beira at the Predio Infante de Sagro (Manhica Freight building). Leaving Beira, a more adventurous back route to Gorongosa is via a right-turn at Dondo onto the EN213 (signpost says Cheringoma). Know that adventure comes with downright difficult roads – the route to Muanza is very bad, and during the rains, definitely negotiable with 4x4 only; turn left at Muanza to get to Chitengo Camp (the only facilities in the park). Alternatively, continuing north to Inhaminga, then turning left, takes you to Mt Gorongosa. For the safe option, stay on the EN6, remembering the testing stretch to Tica. After Inchope, Chitengo Camp turn right onto the resurfaced N1 (relief!) – but be wary of the 100kph (60mph) speed FROM THE OLD… limit, which often drops to 80kph (50mph). Civil conflict and Gorongosa’s unlucky role Some 45km (30 miles) further, turn right to as Renamo’s headquarters succeeded in Parque Nacional da Gorongosa onto a decent shutting down the park in 1983 (it officially single gravel road, driving another 11km reopened in 1995). The devastating fact (7 miles) to the main gate. After booking stands that the park’s large mammal numbers in, Chitengo Camp is 17km (10 miles) away. were reduced by as much as 95%. All that remained of the building structures were PANS, GRASSLAND & SAVANNAH crumbling bullet-riddled walls and a sadly Situated at the southern end of the Great derelict pool. The Casa dos Leões ruins, East African Rift Valley, the 4000km2 (1544 once a kiosk and viewing point, thrilled sq miles) park comprises the valley floor visitors with its promises of lolling lazily interrupted in places by various surrounding in the grasslands, while the imposing two- plateaus, while rivers flowing from Mt storey restaurant and bar at Mira Hipo – Gorongosa (1862m/6109ft) ensure the many today the shell of a viewing platform – had pans brim over. The Púnguè River defines diners watching hippo submerging and part of the park’s southern border. Mainly resurfacing in ‘hippo lake’. savannah with some forest-woodland, the rest of the park is grassland interspersed with clumps of . For much of the year, about one-fifth of this grassland is flooded (the park is closed Nov–Apr due to the SENA Dry Season Crossing Only rains). Sep–Oct is a popular time to visit. Monte 13 Canda NhamadziGorongosa Vanduzi This well-watered habitat is nirvana for birds 1862m – which is why, according to the park, there 69 215 are over 400 different species. 30 Gorongosa

CHITENGO SAFARI CAMP Gorongosa National Park Recent extensive renovations (which are (Closed due to Cruzado ongoing) have produced nine new air- 22 flooding, from conditioned thatched rondavels (or cabanas), November with mosquito nets and ensuite toilets. Nota 31 to April 30) These are served by a bar and restaurant, 20 Drift (Low-water whose three meals focus on ‘authentic Crossing Only) Mozambican’ cuisine. Future plans are Entrance 17 Chitengo focusing on another restaurant, bar and pool 9 29 with inspiring views across a pan visited by 40 Bué Maria wild . CHIMOIO

Inchope 30 EN6 N Nhamatanda Km 20 29 Muda

SAVE Mi 10 BEIRA Tica 50 osa National Park Gorongosa Nationa

TO THE NEW Enormously reassuring and uplifting news comes from a series of wildlife surveys undertaken in late 2007 by the Gorongosa Restoration Project. These included aerial counts and night surveys, so that nocturnal species got a look-in too. The results: an amazing recovery of many ungulate species. Gorongosa unbelievably supports some of the best numbers of sable , Lichtenstein’s hartebeest and oribi (191 at last count); 507 were recorded, plenty of bushbuck and , and the first sighting of since the 1950s. Gorongosa National Park Elephant (300 were tallied in 2007), hippo and prolific crocodile also made their appearance, while and blue have been reintroduced. The much sadder statistics centre on the carnivores – , , and lion – present but not in great number, while Selous zebra has all but disappeared. Nocturnal carnivores spotted and ticked off include African civet, large spotted genet and serval.

MUERA 215 Gorongosa Gorongosa National Park 34° 4' 29" E (Closed due to flooding, 18° 40' 41" S from November 31 to April 30)

M ze u e c b 22 o m z co a Mu

Lago Urema Lion House

cad Missi zi Miradoure de Sungue i z Nota u d Lagoa Mira Hippo n Casa dos Leoes u Nhamutengo V Lagoa Do Paraiso Elephant 20 Drift (Low-water EN1 Crossing Only) Entrance Acampamento Chitengo Lagoa Lagoa Gate Nhansato Nhamichindo 18 17 Púngoè 9 Picada de Urema 34° 6' 6" E Bué Maria Lagoa

INCHOPE Mareze 19° 0' 7" S Buffalo

Urema P

N ú n g o Km 20 è Mi 10

NHAMATANDA 51 E U Q I B M A Z O M S A L T A D A O R MOZAMBIQUE

INCLUDES NEWGPS CO-ORDINATES

0860 10 50 50 www.mapstudio.co.za ROAD ATLAS

ity Maps

1st Edition © Map Studio™ 2009 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be Qual reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, electrostatic, magnetic tape, SINCE 1958 mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission in writing from the Copyright owner. Map Studio and the MapStudio device are trademarked to New Holland Publishing (South Africa) (Pty) Ltd TRAVEL ISBN 978-1-77026-030-6

PERFECT FOR THE FIRST TIME VISITOR E COLOUR PHOTOS DETAILED CONTINUOUS MAP SECTION E STREET MAPS TOURIST AREAS E SITES E PLACE NAMES INDEX 9 781770 260306 CONTACT INFO E SMALL TOWNS E RESERVES NATIONAL PARKS ROUTE PLANNER www.mapstudio.co.za E Cover image supplied by ACTIVITIES HOT SPOTS HISTORY IMAGES OF AFRICA www.imagesofafrica.co.za E E Ian Michler GPS CO-ORDINATES