Sacred Sights Znojmo

Contents The Czech spiritual tradition and , in the stones and bricks of monasteries, there are traces The Czech spiritual tradition ...... 1 Within the borders of today’s Czech of historical events – just waiting to be Republic, a number of events took explored. This publication should help The beginning of Christianity ...... 2 place whose impact reached beyond travellers in their discovery, which also its frontiers. Many of them relate to the becomes a journey of self-discovery. Routes of pilgrims, monks and architects ...... 7 influence of Christianity, which as the It can serve as a pocket guide to places dominant religious tradition figured into where history both major and minor Paths of fiery preachers and heretics ...... 15 the decisions of rulers and monarchs. was made, offering insight into the When travelling to sacred sights, you will beginnings, high points and vestiges of Baroque art in the service of the ...... 18 encounter works of art from different historical epochs in which the Christian eras that reflect the creativity and skill of and Jewish faiths have played an Paths of the Orthodox Christian tradition ...... 22 our ancestors. Behind every work made important role. by mortal hands is a story of inspiration, Paths of Judaism ...... 26 faith and the human desire to touch We welcome you to a journey though things that are greater than oneself. the spiritual history of and with wishes for good In this publication you will find weather and an open heart. information on the most significant and most beautiful religious monuments, interesting facts about their history, and tips for trips in their vicinity. In the walls of churches, chapels

1 Rotunda of St. George on Říp Mountain The beginning of Christianity

The is often called the country in the heart of Europe. Its location at the border between Eastern and Western cultures has made it not just a crossroads of trade routes but also of spiritual history.

2 Sacred Sights 3 Velehrad This small town in the southeast of Moravia is the most important place of pilgrimage in the Czech Republic. It is said that in the 9th and 10th centuries it was the capital of the once important Slavic state of Great Moravia. It is probably the site of one of the missionaries – Archbishop Methodius. In 1985, John Paul II gave the basilica in Velehrad a “Golden Rose” – a precious gift which can be boasted only by Lourdes in France, Guadalupe in Mexico, and Częstochowa in Poland. Velehrad www.velehrad.eu St. Vitus

The major Cyril and Methodius pilgrimage at Velehrad takes place every year on July 5, the name day www.hrad.cz Through Great of both saints. Early Christianity Břevnov Monastery Moravia with Svatý Hostýn in This is the oldest monastery in the Cyril and The Basilica of the Assumption of the Czech Republic, founded in 993 Virgin Mary (a Basilica minor, completed Historic Centre by Prince Boleslav II together with the of Prague Methodius in 1748), a shrine with a statue of the second of Prague, Adalbert. Virgin Mary, has made Hostýn the Prague Castle From the old Romanesque church most visited pilgrimage site in Moravia. building, remains of the crypt beneath Coming from the east, from Byzantine Noteworthy is its water chapel, with One of the largest castle complexes in the the Church of St. Margaret are preserved. Thessaloniki, the brothers Constantine a spring of miraculous water, and an world, it was the seat of Bohemian kings, Gothic modifications to the monastery (who later took the monastic name artistically valuable Stations of the Cross, Roman emperors, and today houses the and the local church disappeared of Cyril) and Methodius arrived in the designed by the renowned Art Nouveau Office of the Czech President. A UNESCO during the Baroque reconstruction spring of 863 in today’s Czech Republic, architect Dušan Jurkovič. Hostýn World Heritage site, it is dominated by by Kryštof and Kilián Dientzenhofer bringing Christian doctrine here is connected to Velehrad via a pilgrimage the Cathedral of Sts. Vitus, Wenceslas in the early 18th century. In recent years, at the request of Prince Rostislav of route, along which you can visit other and Adalbert, the patrons of the Czech the whole complex has been undergoing Great Moravia. Their mission was also religious monuments in the region. lands. Founded as a rotunda in the mid- restoration, including the gardens. successful because they began to serve 10th century, a cathedral began www.brevnov.cz mass in the new locally comprehensible Open-Air Archaeological to be built on the site in 1344, during the language of Old Church Slavonic, Museum in Modrá reign of Emperor Charles IV, and it was Taste the Břevnovský Benedict instead of the usual Latin, and they completed in 1929. Also worth visiting beer from the monastery brewery. created the new Glagolitic script. In the village of Modrá, near Uherské is the St. George Monastery with the Its history dates to the 13th century. Hradiště, foundations were discovered nearby Church of All Saints. In the You will find the brewery in the former of what was probably the first Christian Chapel of the Holy Rood in the second Baroque stables. church in the Czech lands. courtyard is an exhibition of the St. Vitus www.archeoskanzen.cz Cathedral Treasury.

4 Sacred Sights 5 Since the 11th century, the territory of today’s Czech Republic has been part of the Western ecclesiastical tradition. New religious orders came to this country, bringing with them scholarship and new views on architecture. Monasteries and cathedrals were built, and the practice began of making pilgrimages to holy places.

Břevnov Monastery

Rotunda of St. Martin at the St. Wenceslas complex. at Vyšehrad The centrally located Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary in Stará The Rotunda of St. Martin at Vyšehrad, Boleslav is associated with the palladium built in the 11th century, is the oldest of the Czech lands: a Marian icon which, Routes preserved example of early Christian according to legend, was given architecture in Prague. With a diameter by St. Methodius to Princess Ludmila at of 6.5 metres, it is also the largest her baptism and was part of the property rotunda in Prague. of the murdered Prince Wenceslas. www.praha-vysehrad.cz www.staraboleslav.com of pilgrims, Near Prague Říp Říp Mountain is the symbol of Czech monks national history. At its apex is probably Stará Boleslav the most famous Romanesque monument in the Czech lands, Stará Boleslav went down in history the Rotunda of St. George. Říp is as the location of the murder of the associated with the legend of the arrival and architects Bohemian Prince Wenceslas, who is of the Czechs’ ancestors in the country. regarded as a symbol of Czech statehood It is said that every Czech should climb and the country’s most important patron. this mountain at least once in their life. The saint’s murder is commemorated www.rip.ceskehory.cz Holy Hill near

6 Sacred Sights 7 Zlatá Koruna (Golden Crown) became an internment camp for spiritual Monasteries leaders. It lies in the midst of nature A few kilometres from Český Krumlov, in the scenic Vysočina region and can on a promontory above the river , be reached via a variety of hiking Monasteries and beer stands a lovely Cistercian monastery, and cycling trails. which is considered to be one of the Monasteries in Bohemia and Moravia most valuable complexes of Gothic Part of the monastery complex are interesting not just for their architecture in Central Europe. is the Želiv Monastery Brewery, architecture and their genius loci, The picturesque monastery complex which produces six kinds of beer but also for their very close connection is a place of architectural treasures and using traditional methods. You can with beer. The history of monasteries other points of interest. For example, also arrange accommodations was linked with brewing beer from the local Church of the Assumption in the monastery. Whoever wants the beginning. Indeed, beer brewing was of the Virgin Mary is the largest church to escape from the hustle and bustle inherent to the monastery foundation in South Bohemia, and a gift the of daily life can spend some time charters themselves. Until roughly the monastery received indirectly from in the calm environment of the Monastery in Vyšší Brod 12th century, beer was part of the daily French King Louis IX the Pious is said monastery in contemplation diet, and its preparation was taken to be a thorn from Christ’s crown, from and prayer with the as a given, primarily in convent kitchens. which the monastery took its name. Premonstratensian brothers. The ingredients in beer diversified the www.klaster-zlatakoruna.eu The Benedictines were the messengers diet, particularly in periods of fasting. Abbey in Teplá of the Romanesque style, building Designated spaces for brewing gradually The Zlatá Koruna Monastery boasts rotundas, churches, basilicas and began to be established in monastery a musical marvel. In 2012, it acquired This Premonstratensian abbey was monasteries. They had aspirations for complexes, thus breweries. Today we a unique concert grand piano made founded in the early 12th century in the each of their abbeys to become are reminded of this connection by the by the renowned Berlin firm Carl picturesque countryside near Mariánské an important place of pilgrimage. names of some beers and breweries Bechstein. It is the only instrument Lázně. The oldest surviving part is the In addition to its decorative function, themselves: Opat () from the of its kind in the world, and it was Romanesque-Gothic hall church of the sculptural and painted ornamentation Broumov Monastery, Klášter (Abbey) originally made to order for the Annunciation of the Lord. In the late also took on an educational purpose – from Klášter Hradiště nad Jizerou, or Imperial Palace in Saint Petersburg. 17th and early 18th centuries, the abbey depicting the lives of saints and royal St. Norbert from the Monastery The piano graces concerts at the was rebuilt in the Baroque style by families. You can see this, for instance, in Prague. monastery complex. Kryštof Dientzenhofer. The abbey library in the St. Catherine Rotunda, which is contains 100,000 volumes and is one part of the castle complex in Znojmo. Monastery in Vyšší Brod Monastery in Želiv of the oldest and most important On its walls, unique paintings with historical libraries in the Czech Republic. Christian and secular themes are The Cistercian monastery in Vyšší Brod The monastery was established in 1139. The abbey complex includes a historical preserved. near Český Krumlov was founded It was first inhabited by Benedictines park with a pond and a Stations From the mid-12th century, another by the Rožmberk (Rosenberg) family from the nearby abbey in Sázava, of the Cross. important order was the . in 1259 and was not inhabited by monks then later by the community of www.klastertepla.cz Their monasteries came to symbolize the for a long time. Construction of the from Steinfeld in the prosperity of the country, education, art, monastery took more than 100 years. Rhineland. Over its history it underwent Just beyond the abbey walls and care for the needy. Developments The most valuable artefacts are the a number of changes. After many fires, is a nine-hole golf course. During in mathematics and geometry gave Vyšší Brod Madonna, one of the most it was restored several times – most the tourist season, from Easter rise to another new style – the Gothic. beautiful surviving examples of Gothic notably in 1713–1720 in the spirit of the to the end of October, you can In addition to monasteries, majestic panel painting in Bohemia, and the rich Baroque Gothic by the architect Jan stay at a hotel in the Teplá Abbey. cathedrals were built whose stained glass monastery library. Santini Aichel. During the communist windows told the stories of saints in an www.klastervyssibrod.cz totalitarian period of the second half even more compelling manner. of the 20th century, the monastery

8 Sacred Sights 9 St. Barbara Cathedral in Kutná Hora St. Wenceslas Cathedral in Olomouc

of the cathedral was taken over Cathedral of Sts. Vitus, Cathedral Cathedrals by the Jesuits, whose former college Wenceslas and Adalbert of St. Bartholomew in Plzeň The Historical Town Centre now serves as the Gallery of the Central in Prague with the Church of St. Barbara Bohemia Region (GASK). This magnificent Gothic building and the Cathedral of Our Lady destinace.kutnahora.cz The dominant building of Prague Castle, (Katedrála sv. Bartoloměje) was founded at Sedlec it was dedicated to three major Czech together with the city in the late Kutná Hora The most artistically notable part of saints, Vitus, Wenceslas and Adalbert. 13th century. It stands in the centre the Cathedral of St. Barbara was not Construction began in 1344, of Plzeň. The most valuable and famous The city of Kutná Hora boasts intended for the gaze of humans, when Prague was elevated to an artistic artefact in the church two cathedrals. The first one and its precision can be appreciated archbishopric, and it was finished is a centuries-old statue of the Virgin is located in the former Cistercian only with binoculars. The walkways in 1929. Mary (called the Pilsen Madonna) monastery complex in Sedlec (more are composed of diverse creatures, www.hrad.cz from around 1390. on page 21), and the second one, the including daemons, harpies and winged www.katedralaplzen.org Cathedral of St. Barbara (Chrám sv. rams. The excellent interior acoustics Cathedral of St. Wenceslas Barbory), dedicated to the patron saint provides a pleasant atmosphere not just in Olomouc Cathedral of miners, is located on the west side of for contemplation and prayer but also of Sts. Peter and Paul in Brno the city. Both of these buildings are for regular organ concerts. Construction of the cathedral (Katedrála a testament to the prosperity sv. Václava) began in 1100, and it was The cathedral (Katedrála sv. Petra of the silver mines and the Kutná The GASK Gallery attracts visitors consecrated 31 years later. It is among a Pavla) is located on a site where Hora burghers in the Middle Ages. interested in visual art of the 20th the jewels of Central European medieval there probably once stood a castle The foundation stone of the and 21st centuries. Take advantage architecture. With the height of its main and a Romanesque church. On those Cathedral of St. Barbara was laid of a combined ticket that allows you tower spanning to 100.65 metres, it has foundations, an early Gothic church in 1388, but it took 500 years to visit GASK, the Sedlec , the second largest church tower in the was built in the 13th and 14th centuries, for it to be completed. The leading the Cathedral of St. Barbara and Czech Republic. which became a cathedral in 1777, artists of the time contributed the Church of the Assumption The largest bell in Moravia is located after the establishment of a bishopric to the building’s creation. During of the Virgin Mary. in the cathedral. in Brno. the Baroque period, the administration www.gask.cz tourism.olomouc.eu

10 Sacred Sights 11 In 1995, Pope John Paul II visited Holy Hill, where he met with young people.

The Holy Trinity Column in the centre of Olomouc is one of the key works of the Central European Baroque and is a UNESCO monument.

Svatá Hora (Holy Mountain) near Příbram Rising above Příbram in Central Bohemia is Svatá Hora (Holy Mountain), which probably got its name because of the legend that it was once inhabited Infant Jesus of Prague by a hermit – a holy man. It is also said Basilica of the Visitation of the Virgin Mary in Hejnice that a chapel was originally founded here in the 13th century by a knight of the house of Malovec. The first preserved record of its ground plan, upon which gift from her mother in 1556, when the countries – the Czech Republic, Poland Pilgrimage the present basilica was based, dates noblewoman married into a Bohemian and . You can meet up with from 1658. noble family. Maria’s daughter Polyxena its Czech section in the town of Hejnice, routes svata-hora.cz of Lobkowicz then donated the wooden where you’ll find one of the most famous infant dressed in a long gown to the pilgrimage sites in the Liberec region: and places Pilgrims also stream to Holy Mountain Carmelites. During the Thirty Years’ War the Basilica of the Visitation of the Virgin to see the Virgin Mary of Svatá Hora, in the 17th century, the statue of Jesus Mary with the Baroque Franciscan a famous Gothic wood carving which lost both of its hands when it was carried monastery from the first half of the Svatý Kopeček (Holy Hill) is said to guide and heal. off by Saxon troops. Father Cyril later 18th century. near Olomouc had new hands made for the statue. Other points on the Via Sacra Infant Jesus of Prague Karmelitská 385/9, Praha 1 are Český Dub, Mnichovo Hradiště Pilgrimages to sacred places used www.pragjesu.info and Jablonné v Podještědí. to be an integral part of life. The small statue of Jesus housed www.via-sacra.info On the outskirts of Olomouc is one in the originally Lutheran Church of Our The statue of the Infant Jesus of of the architectural gems of central Lady Victorious in Prague is perhaps Prague is credited with a wide variety Legend has it that on the site Moravia – the Basilica Minor of the more famous abroad than in the Czech of miraculous cures, and supposedly of the basilica in Hejnice, a tree once Visitation of the Virgin Mary with Republic. Every day this shrine saved Prague from the Swedes in stood. When a poor craftsman hung a Premonstratensian monastery is visited by hundreds of pilgrims from 1639. In 1655 the statue was crowned a statue of the Virgin Mary on it, on Holy Hill. The large 17th-century all corners of the world. The Christ Child by the bishop of Prague, which is angels appeared to him. complex towers over the entire region raises his right arm in blessing, while commemorated with an annual and is the most beautiful example in his left hand is an orb with celebration on the first Sunday in May. It is a short distance from Hejnice of Moravian Baroque architecture. a cross as a symbol of the world, which to the Lázně Libverda Spa, which has To this day, crowds of pilgrims come he symbolically holds in his hand. Via Sacra a beautiful colonnade from the 19th here for contemplation and prayer. century. Nearby is a restaurant built The basilica is one of the most visited The Infant Jesus statue came to Prague The Via Sacra, Latin for Holy Road, in 1931 inside a giant barrel. sites in the region. from Spain. It was given to Duchess is 550 kilometres long and traces Maria Manrique de Lara as a wedding an old trade route leading through three

12 Sacred Sights 13 Klokoty Paths of fiery preachers and heretics

Holy Hill in Mikulov

The Way of St. James The southern branch leads from pilgrimage routes Karlštejn through Mníšek pod Brdy, Dobříš, Příbram, Nepomuk, Klatovy Even from the Czech Republic and Kdyně to the border crossing it is possible to set off towards Santiago of Všeruby/Eschlkam, and then de Compostela along the increasingly continues along the East Bavarian Way popular Way of St. James to take of St. James in the direction part in a journey pilgrims have been of Regensburg. The reform movement in experiencing for centuries. Several Way of St. James routes lead through The first marked segment along the Czech lands is associated the Czech Republic, linking up with the Way of St. James in Moravia above all with Jan Hus. routes in Germany and Austria. is the route from Brno to Mikulov. It connects with the Austrian route His triggered The northern branch comes from leading through part of the Weinviertel the Hussite revolution, Zbraslav near Prague and continues (meaning “wine quarter”) region through Karlštejn, Beroun, Plasy, in Lower Austria. The route was whose impact extended Krkavec hill and Stříbro to Kladruby. extended in the direction of Olomouc into neighbouring countries. Then it leads through Bělá nad Radbuzou and up to the Polish border, to Železná, where it crosses and thus traverses all of Moravia. The Czech Reformation the Czech-German border near the Park www.jakubskacesta.cz anticipated the Reformation of Reconciliation and connects with www.ultreia.cz a route leading to Nuremberg. elsewhere in Europe by about a century.

14 Sacred Sights 15 Hussite Prague

Church of Our Lady Before Týn On the site of a Romanesque hospital church, construction of the Týn Church (Kostel Matky Boží před Týnem) began in the mid-14th century. The church was completed during the reign of King George of Poděbrady. On the shield was a statue of King George, known as the Hussite king, and a large chalice, the symbol of communion Church of Our Lady Before Týn in both kinds. In 1626, the sculpture Tábor of the king was replaced by one of the Virgin Mary, and the chalice was melted down and made into a halo. Reform movements in the late 14th Celetná 5 / Staroměstské náměstí place where Jan Žižka had Adamites and early 15th centuries in Bohemia Praha 1–Staré Město Traces of the burnt. They are commemorated here by and Moravia were associated with www.prague.eu a statue by František Bílek, whose artistic the work of Jan Hus, a university Reformation in interpretation of the Hussite movement professor and theologian who was The illustrious Danish astronomer can be seen throughout the town. influenced by the ideas of the English Tycho Brahe is buried in Týn Church. South Bohemia reformer John Wycliffe. For his Besides the Church of the convictions, Hus was persecuted Bethlehem Chapel Transfiguration, another noteworthy by the Church and finally was burned Tábor stop in Tábor is the Hussite Museum at the stake as a heretic at the Council Bethlehem Chapel (Betlémská kaple) inside the former Town Hall. of Constance in 1415. His death triggered was built in the 1950s on the site of the The Hussite town of Tábor was founded The exhibition acquaints visitors the Hussite Revolution in the Czech original 14th-century chapel, which in 1420 and became the headquarters with the Hussite movement lands, which also impacted neighbouring became famous as the pulpit where of the radical . The name and the history of the Hussite town. countries. The symbol of the reformation Master Jan Hus preached and was of the city was based on the New Also interesting is a trip through was the chalice, which became a typical designated as a place for sermons in Testament story of the Transfiguration the Tábor catacombs. emblem of Protestant churches the . Everything that of Jesus on Mount Tabor, and was also and prayer houses. The Czech was preserved from the original chapel a reference to the Hussite pilgrimages Reformation came about a century was put into the new building, designed to the mountain. Today, Tábor before the European Reformation, by the architect Jaroslav Fragner. is a picturesque town with a pleasant which was led by another university Valuable vestiges of the chapel’s original historical atmosphere. professor, the Augustinian monk decoration are fragments of treatises www.taborcz.eu Martin Luther. by Jan Hus. The contemporary frescoes copying illuminations from the Jena Klokoty Codex harken back to the original atmosphere. Near the centre of Tábor is the Baroque Betlémské náměstí 255/4 pilgrimage site of Klokoty, which in the Praha 1 – Staré Město Hussite period became famous as the

16 Sacred Sights 17 Baroque is the most visible architectural style in Prague and throughout the Czech Republic. The impression of a picturesque landscape punctuated with elements of Baroque architecture is still characteristic of the Czech countryside today.

Church of St. John of Nepomuk on Zelená Hora (Green Mountain)

Czech Baroque is a specific form of Baroque culture, created here between In the the 16th and 18th centuries. Baroque has its roots in Italy and Spain, but footsteps of the in Bohemia it was enriched with new elements by local artists and craftsmen. Dientzenhofers Not only were churches, monasteries, palaces and chateaux built in this style, Baroque art but it changed the character of the Czech Church of St. Nicholas in Prague countryside with small churches, chapels and rural farms. Buildings The Church of St. Nicholas (Kostel blended perfectly with their sv. Mikuláše) is one of the foremost in the service surroundings, and the impression Baroque buildings in Europe, and of a picturesque landscape punctuated it is often described as the most beautiful with elements of Baroque architecture building of the Czech Baroque. is characteristic of the Czech Its massive dome and slender tower are countryside today. an integral part of the Prague panorama. of the Catholic Significant architects who were active Malostranské náměstí in the Czech lands include Kryštof Praha 1 – Malá Strana Dientzenhofer, his son Kilián Ignác www.stnicholas.cz Dientzenhofer and Jan Santini Aichel, Church who was the originator of a style that is An unforgettable experience unique in the world: Baroque Gothic. is climbing up to the bell tower of the Church of St. Nicholas, which offers impressive views.

St. Nicholas Church in Prague’s Malá Strana (Lesser Quarter)

18 Sacred Sights 19 Church of the Assumption Taste the local Opat (Abbot) beer, of the Virgin Mary in Sedlec whose history is closely intertwined with the history of the Broumov Part of the oldest Cistercian monastery. monastery in the Czech Republic and located in Kutná Hora–Sedlec Good transport to the region is a monumental work by Jan Santini is ensured by a train between Náchod Aichel: the Church of the Assumption and Broumov via Meziměstí (route of the Virgin Mary. No. 026). Driving time from Prague On the site of an earlier Romanesque is about 3 hours. church, a Gothic basilica was built in the 13th century. The building was extensively damaged during In the footsteps the Hussite Wars, and the monastery was devastated by fire. The restoration of Santini of the church was finished in the early Church in Sedlec 18th century, according to plans Kuks by the architect Pavel Ignác Bayer. The architect Jan Santini Aichel He was soon replaced by Jan Santini managed to connect the dynamism Aichel, who at the age of 25 showed Broumov’s Baroque churches of the Baroque with the Gothic tradition. a greater degree of sensitivity and The former monastery now attracts Thanks to important commissions, respect towards the original Gothic visitors to see its splendid Baroque Unique in all of Europe are the Baroque his buildings are indelibly inscribed structure. church, library and chapel. churches in the Broumov region, near in the character of the Czech countryside. destinace.kutnahora.cz www.klaster-plasy.eu the border with Poland. They were built on the grounds of the Broumov The Pilgrimage Church The church was deconsecrated Kuks Hospital is an island of Baroque Monastery according to designs by the of St John of Nepomuk in the 18th century, and in the early art in the East Bohemian countryside. famous architects Kryštof Dientzenhofer at Zelená Hora 20th century it was even used In the picturesque valley of the river and his son Kilián Ignác. The churches Zelená Hora as a tobacco factory. Labe, František Antonín Špork had were built in a relatively short time, (Green Mountain) spa buildings and a chateau between the years 1709 and 1743. Monastery in Kladruby constructed in the early 18th century The group consists of a monastery Santini’s most famous work is the after the discovery of a medicinal in Broumov and small churches pilgrimage Church of St. John Jan Santini Aichel was also invited spring. Later, a church was added in nine surrounding municipalities: of Nepomuk on Zelená Hora to build at other monasteries. and also valuable sculptural Martínkovice, Vernéřovice, Ruprechtice, (Kostel sv. Jana Nepomuckého na Zelené The Benedictine monastery in Kladruby decoration. In the lapidary you can see Otovice, Heřmánkovice, Bezděkov, Hoře), directly above Žďár nad Sázavou. is the joint work of Santini and Kilián the originals of the allegories of Virtues Vižňov, Šonov and Božanov. The building is a UNESCO World Ignác Dientzenhofer. and Vices by the most important www.broumov.net Heritage Site. The ground plan is in the Czech Baroque sculptor, Matthias shape of a five-pointed star, symbolizing Monastery in Plasy Bernard Braun. A point of interest A cycling route (22 km) goes past the Christ’s five wounds of martyrdom and is the group of Baroque sculptures churches in the Broumov area. also the five stars which appeared above This magnificent Cistercian monastery by Braun in the surrounding forests. The circuit covers the southern part the place of Nepomuk’s martyrdom. complex was established in the Baroque www.hospital-kuks.cz of the Broumov region, setting off from The church is designed on the basis period. By using an ingenious Broumov and following secondary of mathematical symbolism and creates oak construction, the architect roads or pathways through Šonov, a well-illuminated space of perfectly Jan Santini Aichel managed to solve Otovice and Božanov to Martínkovice balanced interwoven shapes. the local problem for buildings of a very and then circling back to Broumov. www.zelena-hora.eu damp subbase and a lot of ground water.

20 Sacred Sights 21 Interest in the Orthodox tradition grew among Czech Christians after 1848. In 1874, Prague’s Church of St. Nicholas on Old Town Square was given to the for its masses. Paths of the Orthodox St. Nicholas Church in Prague’s Old Town The head of the Orthodox community Church, was Matěj Pavlík, who after and its and believers as the first Czech Orthodox bishop were persecuted. Bishop Gorazd Christian received the name Gorazd. Bishop was canonized in 1987 for his heroism Gorazd built dozens of churches and martyrdom. and created the form of Czech Resslova 9a tradition Orthodoxy that is known today. Praha 2–Nové Město The Carpathian Church of St. Michael Prague the Archangel (Kostelík sv. Michala), also called the Church of St. Michael, is a true rarity. This wooden Orthodox Until 1935, the Cathedral of church with elements of Baroque folk Sts. Cyril and Methodius (Chrám architecture was built in the second half sv. Cyrila a Metoděje) was a Catholic of the 17th century in Ukraine. In 1929, church. It was inscribed not just in the it was dismantled and brought to the history of the Orthodox Church but in the Kinský Garden in the Smíchov district history of Czechoslovakia during the Nazi of Prague, where it was re-erected. occupation when the paratroopers who Petřín–Kinský Garden carried out the assassination of Acting Praha 5–Smíchov Reich Protector Reinard Heydrich hid in its crypt. This became the pretext for the Church of Sts. Cyril and Methodius in Prague subsequent prohibition of the Orthodox

22 Sacred Sights 23 Church of Sts. Peter and Paul in Karlovy Vary

Church of St. Olga in Františkovy Lázně

Russian-Byzantine style with an onion West Bohemia dome, and in Františkovy Lázně is the Church of St. Olga (Kostel sv. Olgy) with a bell-shaped roof In the early 18th century, the spa and small onion domes. All churches industry developed, and because have richly decorated interiors. a significant number of the guests coming for treatment to the medicinal The newest of the local Orthodox springs in Karlovy Vary and the churches is located in the Doubí district vicinity were from Russia, it was also of Karlovy Vary. The wooden St. Nicholas necessary to satisfy their spiritual needs. Chapel was consecrated only at the turn One of the most widely known Orthodox of the millennium, and it was built churches is the Cathedral of Sts. Peter on the model of the Suzdal Chapel and Paul (Chrám sv. Petra a Pavla) in Russia from the private funds in Karlovy Vary. It was designed of Nikolai Gennadievich Stepanov. by Gustav Wiedermann, who was the mayor of Františkovy Lázně The architectural model for the at that time. Cathedral of Sts. Peter and Paul in Karlovy Vary was the Byzantine He was also responsible for other Old Russian church in Ostankino. churches in the spa triangle. In Mariánské Lázně is a church dedicated to St. Vladimir in a typically

24 Sacred Sights 25 The Jewish In the 13th century, certain rights were granted to Jews, and it was just population came to at this time that construction of the Bohemia and Moravia Old-New Synagogue in Prague began. Jews settled also in Brno, Olomouc, by way of the old trade Jihlava, Litoměřice and Příbram, routes. The first written where they built enclosed settlements for religious and political reasons. records of their presence In the 16th century, new synagogues in these lands come from and new centres arose. They gained emancipation in the Czech lands the 10th century, although in 1848 and were granted legal equality Jews certainly passed 19 years later. Until 1939, Jewish culture flourished in the Czech lands, through the region as early yielding many architectural and artistic as in Roman times. masterpieces. Old Jewish Prague in Prague is the Pinkas Synagogue (Pinkasova synagoga). On its walls In the 13th century, the Prague Jewish are inscribed almost 80,000 names Paths settlement expanded into the area of victims of the Nazi Holocaust, around Dušní street and the Old-New or Shoah. Adjacent to the synagogue Synagogue. This settlement was called is the Jewish cemetery (Starý židovský the Jewish Quarter, or the ghetto. hřbitov), where the oldest tombstone, of Judaism In 1851, it became a district of the city that of Avigdor Kara, dates to 1439. and was renamed Josefov. From the Also located here is the original quarter full of winding alleys, of the famous Rabbi Löw, creator the town hall and six synagogues have of the legendary Golem. survived. On the right-hand side, in the direction of the cemetery, is the early Baroque One of the surviving synagogues Klausen Synagogue (Klausova is the Neo-Gothic Maisel Synagogue synagoga). (Maiselova synagoga), which was built www.kehilaprag.cz in the Renaissance style in 1590–92 at the behest of Mordechai Maisel, Kosher restaurants the mayor of the Prague Jewish Shalom Kosher Restaurant Community at that time. Today it houses Maiselova 18, Praha 1 an exhibition on the history of Bohemian Dinitz Kosher Restaurant and Moravian Jews. The exhibition Bílkova 12, Praha 1 continues in the Spanish Synagogue Chabad‘s Shelanu Kosher Restaurant (Španělská synagoga), which Břehová 208/8, Praha 1 was built on site of the city’s oldest synagogue, called the Old School. Old-New Synagogue The second oldest surviving synagogue

26 Sacred Sights 27 The Great Synagogue (Velká synagoga) In its extent and the number Mikulov is one of the largest in the world, blending of preserved buildings, the Třebíč Neo-Romanesque and Neo-Renaissance Jewish quarter is the biggest Up to 90 surviving Jewish buildings, elements with oriental motifs. After in the Czech Republic. of which 45 are designated cultural the Second World War, it fell into monuments, can be found in Mikulov. disrepair and was used only occasionally. Brno From the 16th century until 1851, It underwent renovation in the 1990s and this was the seat of the Moravian regional became a cultural centre of Plzeň. Before the Second World War, Brno, rabbi. You can follow a kilometre- www.pilsen.eu the metropolis of South Moravia, long educational trail with stops at 13 was home to around 12,000 Jews, important sites in the Jewish district’s Near the Old Synagogue in Plzeň who could worship at four synagogues. history, ending at the medieval mikveh. you will find the ruins of the Auxiliary Only one survives – a Functionalist-style Synagogue, today the location of the synagogue by the architect Otto Eisler Mikulov occupies a prominent place Holocaust memorial called the Garden dating from 1934–36. It still serves on the religious map of Moravia. of Memories, built of 2,600 stones with its original purpose and is the only This is mainly thanks to Cardinal Great Synagogue in Plzeň the names of victims. one in the entire region. In the Židenice František Dietrichstein, who in the (meaning Jewish town) district, there mid-17th century established Plzeň is a city of beer. Tours of the is a cemetery which was established an outstanding collegiate chapter brewery and the Brewery Museum in 1852. In its Neo-Romanesque in the city and commissioned the first will acquaint you with the mystery ceremonial hall, fragments of tombstones Loretto church to be built in the Czech West Bohemia and history of Pilsner Urquell’s unique from the Middle Ages are embedded lands. He also started the tradition brewing process. You will see a film in the walls. Behind the ceremonial hall of religious pilgrimages to Holy Hill about beer production in a panoramic is a Holocaust memorial. (Svatý kopeček) above the town, which Plzeň cinema with a revolving auditorium. www.gotobrno.cz continue to this day. www.prazdrojvisit.cz www.mikulov.cz In addition to the sheer size of the Plzeň Boskovice synagogue, proof that there has always Mikulov is located in the centre been a large Jewish community around Moravia There was also a significant Jewish of Moravian wine country, so there the city of Plzeň is the number community in Boskovice, where is also a wine trail with stops at wine of preserved monuments. As elsewhere, Jewish Quarter a famous school (yeshiva) and centre cellars. The region is interwoven with the Jewish population was decimated and St Procopius´ for Talmudic research were in operation a network of cycling paths. by the Nazi occupation in the first half Basilica at Třebíč at the turn of the 19th century. In the of the 20th century. Jews lived in Plzeň Třebíč mid-19th century, more than one-third In Mikulov, history was made. in scattered settlements until 1848, of the population was of Jewish origin. On 6 December 1805, four days when the modern Jewish Community One of the most important Jewish sites The local cemetery has more than after the Battle of Austerlitz, peace was established. In the years 1858–59, in the Czech Republic is the preserved 2,400 graves. Of the original negotiations were opened the Old Synagogue (Stará synagoga) Jewish Quarter in Třebíč, which is on 138 buildings, 79 are still standing at the local chateau. Napoleon himself was built in the Neo-Romanesque style the UNESCO World Heritage List. It is today, including a school, a spa, slept in Mikulov on his way to Brno according to the new rite. When the composed of 116 surviving houses and a hospital, a mikveh (ritual bath) and the Slavkov battlefield in 1809. Great Synagogue was built in the years two synagogues – the Rear and the Front. and a Baroque synagogue. In August 1866, a truce between 1888–92, the importance of the The Rear Synagogue houses an exhibition www.boskovice.cz Austria and Prussia, called the Mikulov Old Synagogue gradually declined. on the appearance of the city in the 19th Armistice, was pre-negotiated here Since the autumn of 2013, it houses century. After following a former cart way, Since 1999, the major Jewish sites before later being concluded in an exhibition. you can also visit the Jewish cemetery. are connected via an educational trail. Prague. Mikulov is truly a place of www.trebic.cz reconciliation.

28 Sacred Sights 29 Terezín Terezín

The Terezín Fortress was built in 1790 as a defence against Prussian incursions into Bohemia. It epitomizes the high art of fortification, but changes in weaponry and military strategy meant that it was never used militarily. Today, the Terezín Fortress is also a sad reminder of the atrocities that took place during the Second World War. Besides the police prison in the Small Fortress, the Main Fortress served as a Jewish ghetto for Nazi Germany. But prominent people were also imprisoned here – leading politicians, scientists and artists. The Nazis then transported Jewish prisoners by train Litoměřice to death camps such as Auschwitz or Treblinka for liquidation. In 63 transports, about 87,000 people left Terezín, of whom only around Litoměřice 3,600 returned after the war. The historical city of Litoměřice About 155,000 people passed through stretches along the river Labe (Elbe) the ghetto. After the war, the Terezín just a few kilometres from Terezín. Memorial was established here Litoměřice is noted for the cultivation as a national monument. It is visited of grapes. In Europe’s northernmost by thousands of tourists from around vineyards, wine of excellent quality the world each year. is produced.

The Ghetto Museum presents Do not miss the interactive exhibition an exhibition on the Final Solution about Czech viticulture in the newly of the Jewish Question. The exhibition renovated castle in the centre was arranged in cooperation with of Litoměřice. Of course, you can also prisoners of the Terezín ghetto and with taste the wine here. the help of hundreds of documents, drawings, objects, letters and films about life as a prisoner. In the Barracks, the former headquarters of the Jewish self-government, exhibitions about cultural activities in the ghetto are held. www.pamatnik-terezin.cz www.terezin.cz

30 Sacred Sights 31 Sacred Sights Index Published by CzechTourism, Boskovice ...... 1 Prague 2017 © Brno ...... 2 Vinohradská 46, 120 41 Praha 2 Broumov ...... 3 [email protected] Český Dub ...... 4 [email protected] Františkovy Lázně ...... 5 I would like Written by: Agency HelpTour - Hejnice ...... 6 Magni | Sacred Czech, Jablonné v Podještědí ...... 7 www.magni.cz Karlovy Vary ...... 8 [khod:skee ko:lahtch] Translation: Mimi Fronczak Rogers Kladruby ...... 9 Photo on the cover: Týn Church, Klokoty ...... 10 Hard to pronounce, Libor Sváček Kuks ...... 11 Photographs: © Ladislav Renner, Kutná Hora ...... 12 even harder to resist Libor Sváček, Pavel Hron, Lázně Libverda ...... 13 Dagmar Veselková, Petr Lněnička Mariánské Lázně ...... 14 www.kvpoint.cz, Sdružení České Mikulov ...... 15 dědictví UNESCO, CzechTourism Mnichovo Hradiště ...... 16 Production: MCU Publishing, Modrá ...... 17 www.mcumedia.cz Olomouc ...... 18 1st edition 2013 (reprint 2017) Plasy ...... 19 ISBN: 978-80-87824-16-0 Plzeň ...... 20 The data given cannot Praha ...... 21 be guaranteed in spite Příbram ...... 22 of meticulous research. Říp...... 23 Stará Boleslav ...... 24 Chodsko-style pastry The official tourist presentation Svatý Hostýn ...... 25 of the Czech Republic Svatý Kopeček u Olomouce...... 26 www.czechtourism.com Tábor ...... 27 Teplá ...... 28 Terezín ...... 29 Třebíč ...... 30 Velehrad ...... 31 Vyšší Brod ...... 32 Zlatá Koruna ...... 33 Znojmo ...... 34 Žďár nad Sázavou – Zelená Hora ...... 35 Želiv ...... 36

The Way of St. James pilgrimage routes The northern branch ...... 37 The southern branch ...... 38 The Czech language is well known for twisting tongues, but The Way of St. James in Moravia ...... 39 your linguistic eff orts will be richly rewarded with tempting Czech specialties that will tickle your taste buds. You can sample the most delicious dishes our country has to off er Via Sacra...... 40 in restaurants with the Czech Specials designation. www.czechspecials.cz 32 Sacred Sights

zT-CzechSpecials-chodskykolac-105x150-AJ.indd 1 21. 8. 2014 11:46:12 The beginning of Christianity Routes of pilgrims, monks and architects Paths of fiery preachers and heretics Baroque art in the service of the Catholic Church Paths of the Orthodox Christian tradition Paths of Judaism 6 13 Polska Liberec 7 Deutschland Ústí nad Labem 40 4 3 29 16 23 11

Karlovy Hradec 8 Vary 24 Králové 5 Praha 28 21 14 37 19 Pardubice 12 Kutná Ostrava Plzeň Hora 20 Litomyšl 9 22

Olomouc 26 38 35 32 36 18 1 31 10 27 25 Jihlava Brno Kroměříž Via Sacra Telč 30 2 17 Zlín České 31 Budějovice The Way of St. James Holašovice pilgrimage routes 33 39 Český Krumlov 34 15 Lednice – Valtice road, motorway 32

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