Series ARCHITECTURAL TREASURES “Special Historic Site: Former Shizutani School” The Shizutani School Proves Its Durability Over 350 Years

The Shizutani School was intentionally built as a sturdy structure in the early Edo period, using the most refined architectural techniques of the day. The building has not lost its luster, 350 years since its construction.

UNO MASAKI

The stone fence sals of local lords) in the various More than 300 years since its con- domains across . However, struction, the stones show almost the feudal lord of the time, Ikeda no irregularity or deviation, with Mitsumasa (1609–1682), thought not even a single plant growing that the domain could develop by in-between the stones. The stone educating children of the common fence has retained its beautiful people in addition to samurai chil- shape and has avoided sinking due dren and so he ordered his retainer to its weight because stones have Tsuda Nagatada to establish an also been buried beneath to match n the mountains of Bizen City open school for the common peo- the height above ground. If you in eastern Okayama Prefec- ple. That was the start of the Shi- go through the school gate (Kaku- ture stand the buildings of the zutani School, Japan’s first public meimon: the gate of the crane “Former School for the Com- school for children of common crying) that leads into the school, monI People.” This is the Shizutani people. The name Shizutani comes you are met by buildings that look School, which was built by com- from its location in a quiet valley. as they did when they were first bining the most refined architec- Tsuda Nagatada spent about built, including the Seibyo (Sacred tural techniques of the Edo period thirty years completing a building Hall, dedicated to Confucius) and (1603–1867). At present, the build- that was sturdy and looked splen- the Lecture Hall. Starting with the ings, which include the Lecture did. The grounds, covering some Lecture Hall, which was desig- Hall, are preserved as the “Special 38,000 square meters, were mostly nated a national treasure in 1953, Historic Site, Former Shizutani cordoned off by a 765-meters long almost all the buildings have been School” just as they were built stone fence that was completed in registered as important cultural some 350 years ago. Most public 1701. The stone fence has a smooth property or registered tangible cul- schools in the Edo period were curvature that comes from the tural property. “clan schools” that taught the chil- precise matching of stones with Surprisingly, the Lecture Hall dren of the samurai retainers (vas- different shapes by stonemasons. and other buildings were used as

30 | highlighting japan The Kakumeimon entrance gate

Interior of the Lecture Hall

part of the (then) Okayama Prefec- nese zelkova. There are katomado techniques to build a robust struc- tural Wake High School Shizutani (windows with a rounded design on ture that would not collapse owing Branch until 1964. That means the upper frame) on all four sides, to rain, wind or earthquakes.” this school built in the Edo period ensuring that light shines in during The Lecture Hall remains a had functioned as an actual school lectures. Tsuda was most afraid of space for various events even today up until half-a-century ago. In fires and so did his best to take in and is sometimes used for classi- other words, the high schools of natural light so that there would be cal music concerts. More than 150 the time were studying inside a no need to use fire for illumination, years have passed since the disap- national treasure. Moreover, cur- such as paper-enclosed lanterns pearance of the feudal system, but rent students of Shizutani School’s for indoor use. The fireplace in the still protected and vitalized by the Youth Education Center are study- Inshitsu room, where teachers and local community, this year the for- ing the Analects inside the national students took breaks, was also only mer Shizutani School celebrated its treasure Lecture Hall. for charcoal fires while it was strictly 350-year anniversary. The Lecture Hall that stands at forbidden to burn wood. the center of the Shizutani School The lacquered floor of the Lec- buildings demonstrates the firm ture Hall has been polished by peo- architectural thought of Tsuda ple gathering there for hundreds of Nagatada, who was the one lead- years and now reflects light like a ing the construction. mirror. It is said that the floor has The foundation uses Japanese not been relacquered and the boards cement mixed with red clay, lime not replaced even once since the from burning seashells, pine resin, original building was completed. and alcohol to prevent corrosion Kiyama Junrou from the Preser- by water and supports the mas- vation Association in Honor of the Locally made Bizen ware roof tiles sive irimoya-zukuri (hip-and-gable “Special Historic Spot: Former Shi- roof).1 Bizen ware produced in the zutani School” describes Tsuda’s Bizen area of architectural thought as follows. was used for the roof tiles. Normal “In charge of the construction tiles are said to last sixty years, but was Tsuda Nagatada, who looked the durable and waterproof Bizen ahead to the future when the ware is still intact, is enduring the finances of may rain and wind, and shows little deteriorate and it may become dif- wear and tear even after 300 years. ficult to run the school, and made The Lecture Hall is supported by sure to use what we would now call ten round pillars made from Japa- maintenance-free materials and View from the Lecture Hall

All photos: Courtesy of the Preservation Association in Honor of the “Special Historic Spot: Former Shizutani School” OCTOBER 2020 | 31