Daybyday Agios Elefterios Nomismatokopio Peania-Kantza Kato Patissia Holargos 23 Self-Guided Tours

Fold Fold

ATHENS METRO Iraklio Line 1 (Green line) Irini Neratziotissa Maroussi Kat Kifissia Line 2 (Red line) Line 3 (Blue line) Nea Ionia Line under construction

Station stop Pefkakia Interchange Plakentias Athens Station under construction Perissos Halandri Ano Patissia Agia Paraskevi Pallini Athens dayBYday Agios Elefterios Nomismatokopio Peania-Kantza Kato Patissia Holargos 23 Self-guided Tours. 44 Maps. One Great Trip. 23 Smart Ways to See the City Agios Nikolaos Ethniki Amyna At last, a travel guide that tells you how to see Anthoupoli Koropi

Katehaki the best of everything—in the smartest, most day Peristeri Attiki Airport time-efficient way. Agios Antonios Panormou Sepolia

• The best of Athens in one, two, or three days BY Larissa Victoria

• Thematic tours for every interest, schedule, and taste day Metaxourgio Abelokipi Haidari Omonia StadiouStadStS u tadt tioiouo Walking tours of the city’s best-loved neighborhoods MOMMONMONASMONASTIRAKIONASTIRATTIRAKRRAAKKI E L d es Panepistimiou • ErmouEr v r rmoou e iouioou ur Ka Egaleo Megaron Mousikis a k na k oouourourest ri AtAt n k hinneddodoso a uk Syntagma Evangelismos MonastirakiMMonaoonastonan sstirttirakiakki s g o s M VoV Ili ThissioThissssssioio e PerikleoPPerrikleoklek eeo Eleonas Hundreds of evocative photos a P oos os • ou M l lo n 7 i upo IfestouIfefe s SYNTAGMASYYNNTAGGMMA u onosoon stoststou t s lo toutot iono oou u r t o ErmoEErm A Mitropole a rmm u V Thissio i d P s s klidon n rian a ro . So Bulleted maps that show you how to get from placeIra to place f ou 6 nd po SSyntagmayntagma M fias • o ros leoos Keramikos Monastiraki s s h m s so ] i Acropoli l t I u r AAmfiktionos o u a u h SSyntagmayntagma k eose PPaarliament l o s c idond SStoatoa ooff r l i i o o k Sq.Sq. VoVoulis Hotels, restaurants, shopping, and nightlife for all budgets s n AAr 9 iikis i • i Nil AttalosAttalus OOthoth Petralona r eo o N nnos s AAiolou os Ex E PPelo nos on ou 11 elo AAdrianoud AApollonopollo eo e pidi ria SSyntagmayntagma Sygrou-Fix t d n L n AApostolou 8 a o Galatias k s u nto p ma AncientAncient n s XXenofontoen A a o k o u fo A o PPLAKALAKA ntos ronr o s Tavros s AgoraAgora THISSIO t e l o n o s Nikod s ou e k e m o Neos Kosmos l ou NatioNational Gardens n o o o k s o i h n t i National s t u e n n u n SSholi o l n i id l r osko a h r t i h o PavlouP e Observatory MMniskleou c e f OOtrineon P llellinon i o i a DDi p o eori r I l FFi v h as i T E ouo Kalithea m l Agios Ioannis i on o T u eon s D u r in ia ro RRangavaip ath l T a o yd ala n d u K m Find news, deals, apps, and expert advice, g o o A AACROPOLISCROPOLIS a n .

n Dafni v u s Moshato a alo plus connect with other travelers at a i DDedaloued a r VVas. Am s 3 u HHerodeserodes d TThalou ZZappeionappeion o AAdrianou ha le AAtticustticus lo Agios Dimitrios k T LLisi u i is s h i i TTheaterheater kr Piraeus Faliro t r atousa S a s to

o u PPnyxnyx HHillill 5 s s i DDionysii l n ony l V

s o iouou AreopagitouA o 2 a re rronos s. opa u O gi y tou 4 lga Ilioupoli VVy s 1 u RRoo TTempleemple ofof thethe L Zappio o vever KKallisperiallisperi i rtout Galli GGaribaldi o n u OOlympianlympian ZZeuseus a PPr G o a M AAkropolikropoli Alimos l ll AAcropoliscropolis r l r i

Petralona i opileono b o i Di EErechthiou ak p MuseumMuseum ZZappappio a p n o r u i A l e l n t A h d e a c anni n M Arditou i o valloti a h KKavallotia ya s i io a n u t r u o 2nd Edition itt r h d Hill Argyroupoli k r iga k i a A P o FilopappouFilopappou HillHill o LLembesse ou MMisarali m ti FFotiadou B u u u MMakriy b le i o es e o a s ik si MMeletiou Pig M a e t l r VVeikou i a a ad n o A L l VVourva us A iotouo o LL.. VouliagmenisVouliagmenis o r MMAKRIYANNIAKRIYANNI u ou

k r t AAnapafseos u Helliniko K a n MMark o r K s a K o u v n o d k DDrak a a US $13.99 CAN $16.99 UK £9.99. i s a chc ap u ISBN 978-0-470-08119-8 r r r D i G n u u a h s o o k u e o r e t o ouo Bots k KKonto o i i a e o o n n h s ouo r n a rreos MMousona u o i f a u m n o t B u n g k s uulgalg ou e u ngroun s L o ra o t i i k DDefner e VVoo an b . i o S o o o n o u a t r e KaratasoK s uliu a lir KKokkini V s vo liou i aria l l f ri li o i e a o TTrivonian PPanetoliouanet ri r K n m d u IIlioup e a u n li l o r s a lo i TTsami s u AAndrea Si a u is it o ani

l r p m g p f e f a is h o M SSismani m o

o charitsac kopoulouk l m l a Syngrou-Fix a r e e u r Z it Fix o o ou n O s First Cemetery ik im u i R e ho s V D KOUKAKI Sec Fold Fold

IIoannion I o rinir s PPaleologou Konstantinou NNationalational ArchaeologicalArchaeological MuseumMuseum s i o DDi AAmbelakionm a a u l a n L b e n n FFanari e u olo M i la n i a k g i o n o u s o ggeni a io u o n i o K r s n o LLiosion l h a zzi CCENTRALENTRAL AATHENSTHENS s u o e n n AthineasA s n t kareosk CENTRAL ATHENS n t i u yyr a iithonos i v n a LLambrou Katsoni u n o u i l r o VVa a t u o in t a m o i o KKalidromiou r PPlatonous u s TTositsa p m PPl i r b FFinou o h o i r o a r LLeoforos Alexandras a s i o n IIliou o r i i e AAstr n MMezonos l u n io i ts a k e AkrA o e l r a S i ooton K f l u o tatzit o z o a K MMarathonomachon bboulinas n r v o h a i t o n u l a s o s i o s o o o k o s e v i VVa t n A n n d e i c i l t t r SStrefitrefi HHillill t o e eoe a t oou s r k x p u a l o r u m o m a a z n i o r i a d i a NNat’l.at’l. TechnicalTechnical tta n r t AAcharnon r u u AAlamanas o o d o ssi i n a n u s s a T o o e uum a k a l o s t e i i usu k IIkonomou i r t a m o KKerameon u m r lol B MMil t iimeou l o o u PPilou d s m i a T PPsaron o . h s i UUniv.niv. ooff AAthensthens o AArmatolon e p O aami a u e o k i PP. Benaki r . i i m m m u r BBo ikoupii S m KKomni o a t r t o s ip a e e Z t s l r DDilig s l o r i n l a e 8 a u V o u k o AAthensthens o n a a a AAristotelous g n o S ouso Klefton PPalamidiou TTr i s K MMonastiriou i s m t u l e o l o g 228 Oktovriou oulo GGerodimou f n m n PigisP AAsklipiou t u i SStournari NNotara a e o i TTsamad r n g a to r o o m o a FFavieroua SSonierou i 3 Septemvriou u u u n k d D FFootballootball SStadiumtadium iiani vie rna o o im n s e a rou n ri h lg i g s ou AA. Ma a u m MMager r c nno ppokrat i aask o o n a p ogouo . a s o a o I n s c s o MMarni DDer PPe d l M s n i roktonr k h a k SSolomou e TTsi n a a t o o o o i o i rn VVictor Hugo KKapodistriouap lom e MMethonis tsot o s a noutioun KKimonos LLenorman VATHIVATHI o e r a ict AAkominatou od u EEresou s ZZoodochouSSmo k s PPaligenesias logil o n i ik im e or H ist r e immiski t alig o u o l o ug rio vev r o m h a e z o AAlikarnassou n s n KKodratouodratou o u e e t v IIsavrs nes g ti u o EXARCHIAEXARCHIA s h i n TTheol KKasiani ia o d s DDamaskinou s s o o CChalkokondiliha n ouo o a am ia u e lko r o o llensk v k ouo ask u l n r M kon iioo u u e i inou nni o m di o n r u o o e li n n ono i s u k p i MetaxourgioMetaxourgio z AA. M is io n a s n oso u a KKara u a n rolouo DDzordz k n i i e n lo . n s o PPeanieon u o s t u M i oon rriako r KKosma M. i a n VVeranzerou o o r i era o t sma u e t KaraiskakiKaraiskaki n e f K d z e NEAPOLINEAPOLI M KKeratsiniou ero l . Ki o n u k t a m i n s o i i r a a l l t ttokleous u kkaft g Sq.Sq. a s a i y s o i xxa i h o SSatovriandoua r o F a SSerron n p c u t a p n ov g mmis i o e ria e u if p nnagi S r o e nd o m s o n k r o h i i u a o K iingos ik o i TThe r AApo o n KKoleti r v N u r s s AAgiou Konstandinou MMenandrou n T o t P t a u i t o gio o u o h i s KKallergi u a MMavromicha li c r n a r leo Kon l l o n i i i s iil a a p a o h a t KKan e o m a il AAra r m i PPatsi Spyrou f AAchileosc GGiatrakou l nd u t r u o ta i o KKolonou l ino o e u i a r OOuranou Nikiforoun n n l NNaousis e n h a f i a D a e ia o a u a r r LLycabettusycabettus Dimitriou LLeoforos Konstantinoupoleos r CCharilaou Trikoupi o t o o o g choc i DDafnomili a a u t IIasonos l OOmoniamonia m a SSarantapichou l u o h p KKoniar s r a i mmmanou N li p is DDaniil a n o k a TTheaterheater e m oou s E a s x i a k o o M SSq.q. i viv o s n k v AAsklipio TTimoleontos Filimon tts ii o n u OOmoniamonia a a VVa is AAg. DDoxapatri MMela l u KKolokinthous n g u s o e r D a . a o DDeligiori ZZinonos BBenaki E inoui ltetsioul o i s ino n iidot t IIsidorous l no d SSou r KKori o e s o e id DDorileouo o o u k li u o t o r r o g FFi t s r ile s i r in u i AAk o i o ou t ttsass d o io d o u s a a n t k i k u u oso s xa h i r ar iiouo aadimi n KKatsorias le o am i ld u d o A u er a l AAg. Orous u KKeramikou Ts im s e g. ias lo s PP.. Tsaldari LLikourgouiko u GGelon O h ga MMar urgo iaas to ro it e TThermopilon u s a u m PPla h a r LLycabettusycabettus s a MMegalou Alexandrour MMil k i r la e athonosa o rri UU.S..S. EmbassyEmbassy a r i p u PParamithias tteon t l u s IIppokratousp o KKokali is e m h lleroue HHillill rk s o To convert...... multiply by o u C u k ik o o o r i e o a o u o hhersonos M r n n n AAna a l id p o t e s h i u a u o a n a k i il a SSolon r c U.S. gallons to liters...... 3.8 l l s r n o AArti r CCityity HallHall i s i o s a o g o a el m r e k g o i h EEvrimedondos r n AAgisilaou l MMelinasDDimocharous Merko s 110˚F t d o n u v o nostopoun CChalkidikis r immisiou u GGeraniou NNationalational n o o to Liters to U.S. gallons...... 26 i o n SSokratous oso s ra m id SSalaminas a s k is n EEpikourou u s t o e o a n o LLibraryibrary o A in io e l p lol R 40˚C d LLeonidou a e g p DDinokratous U.S. gallons to imperial gallons.... .83 u ik SSofokleousofo o oongakou Ilia r o m kle z o i AAthensthens o MMenandrou s 100˚F n AAthensthens MMunicipalunicipal ous a u n i u m PPa g tot n s lol o ConcertConcert HHallall d o A Imperial gallons to U.S. gallons...1.20 a r e M a a o MMikalis AArtrt GGalleryallery o PPesmaz nnepistimUUniversityniversity u k ded LLourou s u a . Polemou o s e o e u ik in ou P ofof AthensAthens FFok mom r u p SSina u p o IIera Odos a PPanepistimiouanepistimiou o tip o Imperial gallons to liters...... 4.55 e s EEleftheriosleftherias u i is u r o s I r 90˚F a l o l i l SStadiou k l AAristippou o O s ae o t t iil ia e d r o i l u i d a m m o Sq.Sq. i iidou PPiraeos i d u s d T Liters to imperial gallons...... 22 AAristofanous EEvripidouv t ioui AAcademycademy 30˚C rip AAiolou o s o us o o i i d s r o o u no u i akalofa u e u i u u s r u ooff AAthensthens k om s m o o e s a l a u EEvmolpidon g t l KKleomenous i a AAristidou d i LLao 80˚F i s e i v n KKriezi o u l u u GGenadi f l m li Klath-Klath- o to o o a 1 liter = .26 U.S. gallon i AAg. Markou o SSouidias l o h ra o l r f it L e o AAg. Asomaton u k MMegaronegaron p m i f o MMonis Pe o i a S u i o r c g v nnokratous t d o l e P ouo i o r g i a n monosmonos a DDi n . d n a p z s . r k u o p s . i SSari a iikavitou u a o s ikiasi i L 1 U.S. gallon = 3.8 liters o u o PPsaromilingou i EEschilou s M x MousikisMousikis k DDipilou M p A r kianok a r i o u a d n i LLeokoriou u a t Sq.Sq. ir oou MMaras VVas. Sofias a TTriptolemou AAnarg e i o s a it S d a i i 70˚F e n s n mmirou r n ouo s s o l i u k a i r o k kkouf o a o r O PPindarou n ip k u o s u a 20˚C VVoutadon m g o f r P o h u k s is o e l tad ironi s o s u p a r t m n on o o o s iimokrit SSpefsipou e a i s u IoanniI u a KerameikosKerameikos n u i f s o lo OOgig d VVissis D S trt o u P r AAthinas k VValaor a u t o h e la i o lil r p r o i g l r o t i a o e o a s e i aaki d c l i a l n e CemeteryCemetery n g l l k n a i fo u PPallado m a o k m 60˚F e oou a a n i n i u AAmerikis o nnos IIraklitour i d V M k PPSYRRISYRRI a i n P s i o i p AAlkman o MMiaouli o r m PPapadiamandopouloua e id k r i ki loutarchoul l A l e tout s a o k e a o Io m lkeoulk DDekeleon GGAZIAZI i o MMelidoni a ou u e sk u KKolokotroniolo u KKOLONAKIOLONAKI rch a i o kotron ia t n o i tr a DD. Egini 10˚C a u PPatriarchoua Ioakim oos u . u 50˚F r r IIrid s a l s c r o E EErmour K i u eki id r g E oou h mou MMONASTIRAKIONASTIRAKI L ti lop u a d in vva e s AAlopekis o touto nnou n itout To convert...... multiply by e n VVe o o a a a OOrfeorfeos k r KKana u sil u u k urestiu an ppsilan e e u n a I A a o ri HHer i oou EElas ththi k u nndi 40˚F nene gge oou n MMeandrou n dosos u e d i inches to centimeters...... 2.54 la ea d a e o s i M VVouko r rrnen s KKolonakiolonaki SSq.q. odoo KKaa i s l P i idoni IIlial Pouloupoulo eerikleosrik rri m ia ThissioThissio MMonastirakionastiraki i leos u d i SSissi Po s d a o ul s M t o centimeters to inches...... 39 o t up o o il s 32˚F n ou o IIfestoufe r SSYNTAGMAYNTAGMA s if lisi 0˚C lou s a ttou PPotamian n t ou o ioos t e s l n o EErmou u feet to meters...... 30 i M rmo AAli AAntifilo m t u e s Pa iitrtro Vas.as IIraklidoraklidon k Ad n poleosp SSyntagmayntagma . S SSemel o i rian ddrr ol M oofiasfias f ou os eo n so s WWarar MMuseumuseum meters to feet...... 3.28 o m ] u s 20˚F s i h IIr rakla AAmfiktionos llis SSyntagmayntagma t o ooff GGreecereece k u yards to meters...... 91 li u PParliamentarliament i h dond SStoatoa ooff e o s SquareSquare RRi o r o l i m c n i u i u u -10˚C N VVo iill AAreos k lo eoos o zariz u s i o s AttalosAttalus o i zi O o ou p i our meters to yards...... 1.09 thhoonnos MMourouzi a lako g r a o k NNikis s a 10˚F EEx AAiolou r h r x i ic oneono EErisichthonos MMichalakopoulo n TTHISSIOHISSIO t i D u PPelo nooss tttikou e e AAdriano pollono s Niir a o lo d AApoll i riiiido n miles to kilometers...... 1.61 n o r lisl n p A ia i BByzantineyzantine & o D idaid n IIona Dragoumi e a o SSyntagmayntagma L t AApostolou Pavlou g i TThorik s u u n to i ocharo h an XXenof u CChristianhristian MMuseumuseum o GGalatiasalatias k m e a p n ouo A c -18˚C o o RRigi A kilometers to miles...... 62 rik Ak AncientAncient fonontot o lkimachoukima h SSyngrouyngrou ParkPark 0˚F AAkteou c o o r d iono s d LLik hou n s ikiiouou a a s n i o o LLeoforos r rriadon t AgoraAgora u r o o h N i I e 1 ft. = .30m 1 mile = 1.6km o r o u KKi s c o eofronoe l e Nikod i AAndinorosnd u e s o m iiichorou ino o l o n r f o u os s TThri NNationalational GardensGardens t o -10˚F u o k f h ono e r r OOlitsik r n o s SSt 1m = 3.3 ft. 1km = .62 mile iaasion NNationalational o k i AAthensthens o o s P h u n l e n i s SSholiou o i n i o t s n n l t n i a d i l KKi r a i o s t o h r CConservatoryonservatory rriittonoso VVasileos OObservatorybservatory h n s v i os iis i s MMniskleous e s OOtrineon P o e k i c l a n l i i a k o DDioskouron o l Ip s ia s i e ria r i l FFilel i -20˚F u h s o PPLAKALAKA s l b o n T E FFila u a VVa e n il i ass.. GGe o mblianm -30˚C lo as l eoorgiourg u o ionio n n aliasa PPresidentialresidential iou s OOu i a n o Tr eo r s o RRangavaip in m AAl it s r o th HHouseouse l f TTroon a a A eex EEfroniouf e s n d yd . x roniou m h o o K ss. Am aandrou t g AArchelaou TThessalonikisMMeli n a A n

u mminda AAmfitrionos e n a ind r liteont v V a c d eo o o EErgoti r DDimitriim n f a T h rgotimoum o it n ou e ou rio o ddalal u PPa e u u a e l To convert F to C: o u i DDe a lesilisle a s m r d ffa o To convert...... multiply by o u i AACROPOLISCROPOLIS o a s u i r oou s d i u ssniou i s DDimofontos ZZappeionappeion siodous l o n s s u HHerodeserodes TThalou I n i e a AAdrianou s p o h n uus oos ggen o e i i t subtract 32 and multiply a o i Ounces to grams...... 28.35 n S a ttino k o l u AAtticustticus d o n e FFor o P o u i Spirou h allia e u a h o o l l nnou r nnd s T u o li L i r h nneo TThea CChio t FFokeas k isikratouss o f r o e a TTheaterheater k u a c i h u k n on ik r i PPr m 5 Grams to ounces...... 035 r s r o o oonos / n oou i r a AArkti IIofontos r by 9 (.555) a t in a m iio i a l t k o r o t u EElan h KKoukl u r a TThir SStisikleo s n eerarchon s n o o MMando PPnyxnyx HillHill s a n a e d n Pounds to kilograms...... 45 I i t oso d aanou i u IIperp l s i KKononos ollidi l o s i r ttid d n KKi e o n rrir o k i i r MMerk s d iioo n V o E A l To convert C to F: o aanti nosn u a FFeedrd n ooutz i n s K r roou y o o u r tid s DDionysiouion Areopagit . . atosthea AAs o u Kilograms to pounds...... 2.20 y r O oon si s n ddy TTrion I n ou A lg a t t re y o o s SStra e o a V tr z i pagi s s avvoono s touo VVyronos s a u t n multiply by 1.8 AAgras u mmis h s 1 ounce = 28 grams IIon n o g e u r s n oou a i r o e onon a n iias t uus t s i KKenn s R ouso m m n L ZZappioappio u ovo TTempleemple ooff o m u aas IImittouLLee 1 pound = .4555 kilogram v a oforoso Et SSmi o ere o f and add 32 u r KKallisperiallisperi s n o ttou Galli n s ro d s o o h E NNewew eeno GGaribaldi o u OOlympianlympian ZZeuseus o t a h r i n o EEoleon s G c n ikisik Antist o h is a a h TTroon DDour rrchou o PPropileon o A l n u u l p e u l t riidos r n 1 gram = .04 ounce i AAcropoliscropolis M AAkropolikropoli tthan do t o IIpodam s i r a e st n r s IIeronos o o o aseosas i t l e A o KKimiseos b t o l im s n o MMuseumuseum D s is 32˚F = 0˚C p i e i o a a k o e o EErechthiou k s o ZZappioappio L i r Thhe 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds l i u dotoud e r PPanatheniananathenian h p o AAcheon d l A ttok i AArist o t e e th NNikosth k c a o u h s AApolloniou i n n CC.. e i o c a SSmyrnis o l s MMar SStadiumtadium n M IIroon my i r n l h n i r D n Kavavallllotioti ou o nis a a ZZino o o t rrieon a TTi a n SSi i KKallisthenous h y ivrv e i ou r non KKononos ri o tt kok AArditourditou EEftichidofti i SkS ssass n i r i chid mmo ar o o iiou o d ou k o

k r a o o u

s s E A g o u n u i pefitrioup a LLembessie PigaP u HHillill ffra ttheou o FFilopappouilopappou HillHill u o r e DDriop MMis m io BBala a h f r MMakriyanni b t FFotiadou MMo n i e d io i u s le o a non e o t p AArkadi s o si e s AArtotin KKon ri MMeletio n o o on AAraki aara k t l o a s o o r i a iia IIfikrato

rosr s u r u a r i ando s f e uussour u t n k r MMAKRIYANNIAKRIYANNI a VVeikou a nnou o a i s ak s o k o

a lliotou L.L. VVouliagmenisouliagmenis d s o s p ttantop u m r a i L o l K o VVou s L t iiklopon d s o d a i n k o o u i AAspas i k efe lo n t u o iddou a t n t i o u ouo CChremo o

p u x FFrinis AAgiou Fanoo a

o f

o oon d L t u r L AAnapaf u iimim id p n i r h kipouk

h r a a usu s oou

l

vachiv h k lidam l i g i . n . iila

a n r c eeki n r i u

o u s s

n o r r PProklou i r e i p o o V

DDrako o c V a AArch r i o loou I. u o l K e s

h u m u o u

KKris VVriaxidos P FFer P FFo o

s r u u o p MMarkou Bo a i a o I

u u o o a o F u . u

k p rrou u o r s rrmionos

oouson a o o f o nin a l l m

s r g i e seoss eoe DDo s n i

M a u k nng i r P i a k a a doud t a i n a e o o o u

laou o rrakopoulou S i lg u iirr e o io g 0 1/4 mi g o IIolaouo ra u it k o u u mmboli PParmenidiarm o r rreos uriou k

a kkinik D o o enid MMelisoue t oou a u s n m a m is m s VVoul n i lisou it r a KKarataso B i e o ia b m i LLaskou o i o DDimit r ro KKo e on IImittoum u amaa o s t d ir e f v o D u s m ssar n ll n ri u u ti AAgnandon a a n TTrivonianou l u o i gn a r AAndrea Si K eer i o ao rrtout r 0 1/4 kman s KKOUKAKIOUKAKI i i lla AAritis do u TTsami i s r s e n etolio FFirstirst CemeteryCemetery e ilo LLaea PPaannetol EEdesioud FFilo Athens ® dayBYday 2nd Edition

by Stephen Brewer

01_9781118045961-ffirs.indd_9781118045961-ffirs.indd i 8/15/11 7:18 PM Contents

15 Favorite Moments 1 1 The Best Full-Day Tours 7 The Best in One Day 8 The Best in Two Days 12 The Best in Three Days 16 2 The Best Special-Interest Tours 21 The Acropolis 22 Along the Grand Promenade 26 Ancient Athens 30 Top Museums in Athens 36 Small Museums in Athens 40 Architectural Athens 44 Byzantine Athens 48 Athens with Kids 52 3 The Best Neighborhood Walks 55 Syntagma to Gazi 56 The Plaka to Psyrri 60 Kolonaki & Lycabettus 64 Omonia & Exarchia 66 4 The Best Shopping 69 Shopping Best Bets 70 Athens Shopping A to Z 73 5 The Great Outdoors 83 The Best of Green Athens 84 Rambling Around Attica 88 South Coast Beaches 92 Nearby Island Escapes 94 6 The Best Dining 97 Dining Best Bets 98 Athens Dining A to Z 102

02_9781118045961-ftoc.indd2_9781118045961-ftoc.indd ii 8/15/11 7:18 PM 7 The Best Nightlife 109 Nightlife Best Bets 110 Athens Nightlife A to Z 114 8 The Best Arts & Entertainment 121 Arts & Entertainment Best Bets 122 Arts & Entertainment A to Z 126 9 The Best Lodging 133 Lodging Best Bets 134 Athens Lodging A to Z 138 10 The Best Day Trips & Excursions 147 Corinth 148 Mycenae 150 Nafplion and Epidaurus 152 Delphi 156 The Savvy Traveler 159 Before You Go 160 Getting There 162 Getting Around 163 Fast Facts 165 Athens: A Brief History 170 Athenian Architecture 171 Useful Phrases & Menu Terms 173 Useful Toll-Free Numbers & Websites 175 Index 178

02_9781118045961-ftoc.indd2_9781118045961-ftoc.indd iii 8/15/11 7:18 PM John Wiley & Sons, Inc.

111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permis- sion should be addressed to the Legal Department, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/572-4355, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Wiley and the Wiley logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trade- mark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. John Wiley & Sons, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 978-1-118-04596-1 (paper); ISBN 978-1-118-12788-9 (ebk); ISBN 978-1-118-12789-6 (ebk); ISBN 978-1-118-12790-2 (ebk) Editor: Jennifer Reilly Production Editor: Erin Amick Photo Editor: Richard Fox Cartographer: Roberta Stockwell Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 877/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in China 5 4 3 2 1

03_9781118045961-flast.indd3_9781118045961-flast.indd iv 8/23/11 9:36 AM A Note from the Editorial Director

Organizing your time. That’s what this guide is all about.

Other guides give you long lists of things to see and do and then expect you to fit the pieces together. The Day by Day guides are different. These guides tell you the best of everything, and then they show you how to see it in the smartest, most time-efficient way. Our authors have designed detailed itineraries organized by time, neighborhood, or special interest. And each tour comes with a bulleted map that takes you from stop to stop.

Hoping to see the best museums in Athens or stroll around the Acropolis? Planning a walk through Syntagma Square, or plotting a day in the Greek islands? Whatever your interest or schedule, the Day by Days give you the smartest routes to follow. Not only do we take you to the top attractions, hotels, and restaurants, but we also help you access those special moments that locals get to experience—those “finds” that turn tourists into travelers.

The Day by Days are also your top choice if you’re looking for one complete guide for all your travel needs. The best hotels and res- taurants for every budget, the greatest shopping values, the wild- est nightlife—it’s all here.

Why should you trust our judgment? Because our authors person- ally visit each place they write about. They’re an independent lot who say what they think and would never include places they wouldn’t recommend to their best friends. They’re also open to suggestions from readers. If you’d like to contact them, please send your comments our way at [email protected], and we’ll pass them on.

Enjoy your Day by Day guide—the most helpful travel companion you can buy. And have the trip of a lifetime.

Warm regards,

Kelly Regan, Editorial Director Frommer’s Travel Guides

03_9781118045961-flast.indd3_9781118045961-flast.indd v 8/15/11 7:18 PM vi About the Author Stephen Brewer is a writer and editor who has worked in magazines, books, radio, and corporate communications for more than 30 years. He visited Athens 20 years ago, decided he found his place in the world, and has spent part of each year in the city ever since. He is also a co-author of Frommer’s Greece Day by Day.

Advisory & Disclaimer Travel information can change quickly and unexpectedly, and we strongly advise you to confirm important details locally before traveling, including infor- mation on visas, health and safety, traffic and transport, accommodations, shopping, and eating out. We also encourage you to stay alert while traveling and to remain aware of your surroundings. Avoid civil disturbances, and keep a close eye on cameras, purses, wallets, and other valuables.

While we have endeavored to ensure that the information contained within this guide is accurate and up-to-date at the time of publication, we make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or complete- ness of the contents of this work and specifically disclaim all warranties, including without limitation warranties of fitness for a particular purpose. We accept no responsibility or liability for any inaccuracy or errors or omis- sions, or for any inconvenience, loss, damage, costs, or expenses of any nature whatsoever incurred or suffered by anyone as a result of any advice or information contained in this guide.

The inclusion of a company, organization, or website in this guide as a ser- vice provider and/or potential source of further information does not mean that we endorse them or the information they provide. Be aware that infor- mation provided through some websites may be unreliable and can change without notice. Neither the publisher nor author shall be liable for any dam- ages arising herefrom.

Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. Hotels, restaurants, attractions, shopping, and nightlife are rated on a scale of zero stars (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). In addi- tion to the star-rating system, we also use a = icon to point out the best bets for families. Within each tour, we recommend cafes, bars, or restau- rants where you can take a break. Each of these stops appears in a shaded box marked with a coffee-cup-shaped bullet P.

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard

03_9781118045961-flast.indd3_9781118045961-flast.indd vi 8/15/11 7:18 PM vii Travel Resources at Frommers.com Frommer’s travel resources don’t end with this guide. Frommer’s website, www.frommers.com, has travel information on more than 4,000 destina- tions. We update features regularly, giving you access to the most current trip-planning information and the best airfare, lodging, and car-rental bar- gains. You can also listen to podcasts, connect with other Frommers.com members through our active-reader forums, share your travel photos, read blogs from guidebook editors and fellow travelers, and much more.

A Note on Prices In the “Take a Break” and “Best Bets” sections of this book, we have used a system of dollar signs to show a range of costs for 1 night in a hotel (the price of a double-occupancy room) or the cost of an entree at a restaurant. Use the following table to decipher the dollar signs:

Cost Hotels Restaurants $ under 100€ under 10€ $$ 100€–200€ 10€–20€ $$$ 200€–300€ 20€–30€ $$$$ 300€–400€ 30€–40€ $$$$$ over 400€ over 40€

An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:

Frommer’s Athens Day by Day, 2nd Edition John Wiley & Sons, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

03_9781118045961-flast.indd3_9781118045961-flast.indd vii 8/15/11 7:18 PM

04_9781118045961-prechap01.indd4_9781118045961-prechap01.indd viii 8/15/11 7:17 PM 15 Favorite Moments

04_9781118045961-prechap01.indd4_9781118045961-prechap01.indd 1 8/15/11 7:17 PM 2 15 Favorite Moments National 1 Gazing at the Acropolis 0 1/4 mi n Aver Ir os o o P f Archaeological i Poulcherias inis A tzi aaleologouleologou n m hon Museum ou Fran 2 Konstanti a ou Plit Having a meal on the terrace of a taverna 0 1/4 km in Z th Vasi ou iou char m ineas Vatat Tositsa Spyr Ka A i o l n Li ou Vou 3 Mezon u telous mvriou lid Komni Wandering into Anafiotika o o dou Strefi Hill no up on s r s Nat’l. Technical z ou k r sto I o i KerameKerameon i t on i is Oktovr Univ. of Athens mi iko g 4 PsaPsaron 8 lg Envisioning life as it once was in the Agora na Ar non Tr ou FaF 2 S ar a i t Tsama viero Soniero 3 Septe our u mi nari chou Pi okton 5 Pet o ko Marn Der Seeing the reliefs in the Acropolis Museum on S T ViVictor Hugo Kapo olomou Me si ctor AAkominatou VATHI dis Eresou sov ZoodSm Hugo triou ven Isavronmi o Chalkokondili EXARCHIA th u 6 Experiencing an outdoor theater Metaxourgio M ou o ski Le i o len A on ni norman Dzordz . Me s ski 7 Karaiskaki KarolKarolouou Vera leous Walking along the Grand Promenade nzerou tok i t p

15 Favorite Moments Sq. chali Satovriand gos ax n NEAPOLI 8 Getting lost in the National Archaeology Museum s AAgiou Konsta ou Themis a Trikou AchileoAchileos giou Konsta ni K vromi KalKallergi o aou Ma ndinou Ka l Arach GiaGiatrakou eti aril 9 KolonoK l h Ouranou Nikiforou Admiring the figures in the Museum olono ergi C Dafnomili t Iasonos Omonia mmanouil Navarino lipiou ra i E atri of Cycladic Art Sq. k ov Ask k Omonia Va Ag. Isid ou KKolokinthous u Zinonos is olo DeligDeligiori Bena D Doxap 10 idot ltetsiou Seeing Athens from the top of Mount Lycabettus u Fi or kin ko u i io saldari d o ou t T iou u 11 hous ri P. s Eating souvlaki on “Kebab Street” MarMarathonos KeramKeramikou Likour gou kratou 12 athonos M Sailing from Piraeus illerillerou us Ippo o C A he o laou at 13 u rou r City Hall Solonos na rsono Lycabettus k National Browsing the Central Market AgisiAgisilaou os gnostop e nd A So k Hill PiraPiraeos Library adi 14 Athens Municipal EEpikourou na s Gazing out to sea from the Temple of Poseidon pikou Ronga Art Gallery Sofokle zoglou mias MeMenandrou ous ma ou 15 rou es Univ. of Coming upon Kapnikarea Church P lou Pa Foki kou Ili u Athens Sina EleftheriasEleftherios ou Panepistimiou n ol epistim Sq. l AristofaAristofanous Academy of Tsak ido u Ev a u ripidou Ai ou Athens u ristido u EvmoEvmolpidon KrieKriezi Stadio o a A Klath- Ag. AsomatonAsoma u i Ag. Markou i it l ou emouem lp omilingo o ou o l il P u idon ari schilo r kav f mmou zi SarS a monos i o EEschilou L PsarPsaromilingouDipDipilou nous x irou ar LeoLeokoriou Anar it u Sk d Ali inas s e Sq. m in ipto dos l O okritou P riptor VVoutadonoutad a issi o ou girogiron th V m T on k u is Kerameikos oriou Di P OgiOgigou A s Val S ou er n Pall olonos fa s t klit ef Cemetery on gou i a a on o ni n k V Amerik ori Ir is ido a o GAZI el k re ele 5 MMelidoni is o K to KOLONAKI k u olokot ErmouErm PSYRRI ra roni u u oakim ou a io P. I Dek K E L est H MONASTIRAKI v e r u erodotou rfeos a k Kana Aniadon OOrfeos k ri A n ElElas thinedo a s ge Dialeon as M Perik Vouko idonido Ilia PouloupoulouPouloupo Thissio Monastiraki leos l

i u IfestouIfestou s SYNTAGMA n t s lou r Ermou tionos oos a

ik s Va u Iraklidon n Adriano Pa Mitrop Syntagma s. Sofia u ndro o s hon le tou Megalo IrakIraklidon ss os is ou AmfAmfiktionos o Syntagma ul sili hthoht u Parliament VVasilioua tou Megalou lido ou c Stoa of l o Sq. u N V si il n ikis THISSIO eos Attalos io Otho Mourouzi risic N nos EEx A ko x u i oneon EriE Pel os o on Adri lis Apoll tt 2 opi anou Syntagma os Apostolou Pavlou d os ThoriThorikion ant a ou e Galatias kte am Xenofont Rigi a Ak Ancient n iraeos kio AAkteou os Likiou is n ro PPir Agora s in u Kiriadon leous o s Nikod oou e e FilaFi National k mou National Gardens Irodou A ThThria o k l h AlkmAlkminis asi riasion on Stiichor s t u s n ion sion ne 4 Shol o Observatory id llinon ri a h PLAKA r

Pavl c e OtOtrineon P Mnis le or i Vas DioDios e i p . G h as r I eorgi T i Fi ou Meleliteo E ou iteon o T on Presidential u ne n oon R ri hi ias SimmaSimmachidIous p at House TrTroon angavao yd al ch d u K m id o A s ACROPOLIS n PPtt on no olemaidosole s. ou ma Dedalou d ido Va s lonikis n Dimofontos Herodes T Zappeion Isio DDedalidon ous Adria h edalido sa a PPala le Atticus lou l T Lisikr n lineon ik inou Theater 6 h ThesThessa tis r a Eratosthe IerarchoIerarchon SStis 7 a tous Arkt

Pnyx Hill s os s n Iperionos K i V l o idantidantidon l a

on s o . no r O TriTrio do u lg io n D as ionys Vy n itrionos Io RoveRovertou Gal iou A Agra ous nnonon reopagitou rtou Gal Temple of Zappio s AmfitrAmf Kallisperi iou EolEole Garibaldi llii Olympian Zeus Troon Propileon Akropoli e ErechthiErechthiou M on nous Acropolis M Petralona Di Museum akou Zappio Panathenian AcheonAc Misaral At heon listhe ApollonApolloniou h l an M DorieDorieon anni as Stadium io u a Ka o riy u to o it rkou M Arditou k d a n u i r Filopappou Hill oto a Lembessi A DriopoDriopon B M letiouFo Pig Hill u Me a n eikou tia lano s Kiklopon V L. Vouliagmenis o Arkadion u A d u Drakou o ssourou r An u imidou SilanSilaneon a MAKRIYANNI K u ekido

k u a er L Arch e i MMarkou Botsa apafseo F

onos n r V . os e KKolokotro t ouson a ingrou o Kont V Dom 12 olokotro h MMouson rk S ur a areos

o o lg IoIolaoulaou u o s vac u Parm u ea i u D enidi Kifisodotou KaratasouKarataso ou o Vo Bots r l ef ir hi i onianou bo AgAgrafon li ndr ll a s v a ner Tri Agn nni Genneou A K g Dikearc

andon u f a li i Gen r io Tsami a m nos Koilis u afo PanetolPanetoliou ts ri e lpo n rlo Syngrou-Fix ani

neo Filoilopappoupappou VeikoVeikou m n Sti Orlof O chari is a S i ZZacharitsa s skas h u First Cemetery ini o Roumelis KOUKAKIKOUKAKI Fix K u

Previous page: When floodlit at night, the Acropolis is visible from almost every corner of Athens.

04_9781118045961-prechap01.indd4_9781118045961-prechap01.indd 2 8/15/11 7:17 PM 3 15 Favorite Moments

National

n Aver IrIrinis Ath os

o o P f Archaeological 8 i Poulcherias inis tzi aleologou nnon m hon r Museum ou FranFrantzi Konstant aami A yr ou PlitPlithonos in Z th VasilVasilou Voulgaroktonou ou iou char m i r neas VatatVatatzi TositsaTosit Spyr KaKalidr AAcha sa i o n LiLiosion ou Vou Mezo u telous mvriou lid KomniKomninon o o dou Strefi Hill no up ononomou r Nat’l. Technical s s totelous z ou k r sto I o i Kerame i t on iis is Oktov Univ. of Athens miou iko g Psa 8 Oktovriou lg na Ar non TrTrikoupi Sp F 2 S ar a i t TsamaTsamadou viero Soniero 3 SepteSeptemvriou ouourr u mi nariari chou Pi okton PetPe o ko MarnMarni DerDervenion on S T Vi KapoKapodist olomou MeMethonis sisimiski ctor A VATHI dis EresEresou tsovousov ZoodZoodochouSmSmolenski Pigis Hu triiou ven IsavrIsavron mi go ou th o Chalkokondili EXARCHIA o ski u Metaxourgio ordz ou ou Le i o len z AA. Metaxa on ni on norman DzordzD . Me s ski Karaiskaki Karolou VeraVeran leous nzerou tok i Sq. os t p chalichali SSatovriandatovri gos ax n NEAPOLI s A andou ing ThemisThemistokleous a Trikou Achileo giou Konsta ni KKoleti vromi Kal o aou TrikoupMaMavromi ndinou Kan l ArachArachovis Gia eti aril Kolono l h Ouranou Nikiforou ergi CCharil Dafnomili t Iasonos Omonia mmanouil Navarinou ra i E atri M Sq. k ov AAsklipiousklipiou k Omonia VaValtetsiou Ag. IsidoIsid rou ou K u Zinonos is olo Delig BenaBenaki Emmanouil D Doxap idotidotou ltetsiou u FiFidiou or kin ko u i io saldari d o ou t T iou u hous ri P. Tsaldari Keram s Mar LiLikourgoukour gou kratou athonos M iller us IppoIppokratous o CChersonos AAnagnostopoulou he o laou at u rou r City Hall Solonos na rsono Lycabettus kkrat National Agisi os gnostop e nd A So kkadimias Hill Pira Library adi Athens Municipal E na s pikou RongaRongakou Ilia10 Art Gallery SSofofokleokleous zoglou mias Me ous ma ou rou es M Univ. of PPesmazoglou lou 13 Pa FokiFokilidou kou Ili u Athens Sina Eleftherias ou Panepistimiou n ol episepistimiou Sq. lido Aristofa Academy of TsakTsakalof u EEvripiv a u ripiddouou Aiolou ou tim Athens u ristido u Evmo K StadioStadiou o a AAristidou Klath- Ag. Asoma u rie i Ag. MarkouMarkou i it l ou em lp omilingo o ou o l il P u idon schilo s r kav f m zi Sar a monos i o E LLikavito Psar Dip nous a ar Leo x irou Anar n it u ritou SkSkoufa d inas s Sq. m n Ali dos el OOmirou ok PPindaroui ripto Voutad a issi o ou giro th VVissis m T on k u is Kerameikos oriou DiDimokritou P Ogi AAthi s Val SSolonos ou er n PallPalla olonos fa s t klit ef Cemetery on gou i a a on o ni raklitou n k V AmerikAmerikis orioritou IrI is ido a o GAZI el k re ele M is o K to KOLONAKI k u olokotokotroni Ermou PSYRRI ra roni u u oakim a ioiou P. IIoakim De K E L est HHerodotou MONASTIRAKI v e r u erod rfeos a k Kana Aniadon O k ri AAthinedo n El thinedo a s geg Dialeon as VoukoVoukou e PerikPerikleos otou idon Ilia Pouloupo Thissio Monastiraki leos M l i u Ifestou s SYNTAGMA t s lou 11 r Ermou tionos o a ik s Va n A u Iraklidon driano Pan 15 Mititropolerop Syntagma M s. Soofiafias u dro ole 9 tou Megalo Irak ss ooss is ou Amf o Syntagma ul li htho u Parliament Vasi lido ou c Stoa of l o Sq. u N V si il n ikis eos io THISSIO Attalos OOthotho ou MouMourouzirouzi N nos E AAiol ko x u i oneon Eri Pel os o on AdriAdrianou lis ApollApollonos Syntagma tt oopidapi anou L os Apostolou d Thori ant a ou Galatias kte am XenofontXenofont RigiRigilis Ak Ancient n A iraeos kio os ou Attik Likiou is n ro hor P Agora s d in u Kiriadon leous o s Nikod ro o e k e m IrodouI A Fila National ou National Gardens tiictiichorou Th o k h Alkm riasion on S s t u s n ion ne SSholiou o Observatory id llinon ri a h PLAKA r hol Pavl c e Ot P MnisMniskleous lellinon or i VaVas.s G Dio e i p . G h as r I eoeorgiourgi T i FiFile ou Mel E ou iteon o 3 T eon s Presidential u n asa RRangavari hi i SimmaIous p at House Troon angavao yd al ch d u K m id o s ACROPOLIS n A Pt on no ole s. Am ou ma 1 DDedalouedalou d ido Va s n Dimofontos Herodes TThalou Zappeion IsioIsio D ous Adria Adrianou h edalido saloniki a Pa le Atticus lou l T LisikrLisikr n lineon ik inou Theater h Thes tis r a EratostheEratosthenous Ierarcho S a tous ArktArktinou

Pnyx Hill s os s n Iperionos K i V l o idanti l a

ononos s o . no r O Tri do u l y g io n DDionysiou Areopagitou as ionys VyV n Io Rove iou Areop AgraAgras ous non agitou rtou Gal Temple of L Zappio s Amfitr Kallisperi iou Eol Ga li Olympian Zeus Troon Propileon Akropoli e Erechthi on nous Acropolis M Petralona riba Museum Diak Zappio Acheon ou A L Panathenian ldi MisaralMisaraliotou t listhe Apollon ha l anni na MMarkou Moussourou Stadium Dorie y s io u a Ka o riyri u to o it rkou Arditou k d a n u i r Filopappou Hill oto a LLembessiembessi A Driopo BBalanou MMak letiouFoFotiadou Pig Hill u e a MMeletiou Piga M n VVeikoueikou tia la s Kiklopon L. Vouliagmenis no o Arkadion L u A d u Drakou o s

r AnAnapafseos u imidoukidou K Silan a MAKRIYANNI K u sourou ekido

k u a er L L ArchArchimidous e i M apafseo FFere

onos n r

.

VVourvachi .

e

K t ouson a ingroungrou o V KontKontouli V DomDomboli

olokotro h M rk S ur a areos o o o lg Iolaou u o s vac u Parm u ea i u DDefner enidi Kifisodotou Karataso ou o VoVoulgareos Bots r l ef nianou ir hi i o bo Ag li ndr ll a s v a ner TTrivonianouri Agn n AAndrea Si K g DikearcDikearch andon u f a li i Gen r io Tsami a m nos Koilis u afo Panetol ts ri e lpo n rlo Syngrou-Fix ani neo Filopappou Veiko m n StiStilponos O chari is 14 a M SSismani i Z s skas h u L First Cemetery ini o Roumelis KOUKAKI Fix KKiniskas u

thens.

04_9781118045961-prechap01.indd4_9781118045961-prechap01.indd 3 8/15/11 7:17 PM 4 he wonders of Athens go beyond the Parthenon, hard as it Tis to match that most exquisite landmark. Much of the fun is just wandering the streets of this anarchic, free-wheeling city that extends a warm welcome to its endless stream of visitors. Take in the great treasures of antiquity, soak in some street life, enjoy a meal outdoors—here are some of the many ways to enjoy the capital. 15 Favorite Moments

Dining under the Acropolis in the Plaka district.

1 Gazing at the Acropolis. You posh or trendy. Transporting is the don’t have to go out of your way to word. The lower slopes of the find a vantage point. The best Acropolis just above the Plaka were approach is to let the sight take you settled by craftsmen from the island unaware—let it catch you by sur- of Anafi who came to Athens in the prise as you look up from a narrow mid–19th century to work on the side street or traffic-choked square. new buildings transforming the capi- In fact, the more mundane the sur- tal; they recreated their homeland roundings from which you catch a with stepped streets and white cubi- glimpse of the Acropolis, the more cal houses. Blue shutters, balconies remarkable this ancient wonder with bougainvillea cascading over seems. At night, the floodlit ruins the railings, little blue domed cha- on Acropolis Hill are especially pels, the works—you’ll feel like spectacular. See p 9. you’ve been whisked off to a Cycladic island. See p 62. 2 Having a meal on the terrace of a taverna. Almost any taverna 4 Envisioning life as it once was will do. The food at most is usually in the Agora. Athens has no short- pretty good, and often great, and age of ancient ruins, but those of it’s all about the experience. You’ll the Agora, the marketplace and be made to feel right at home (a cat social center of the ancient city, are or two might rub against your legs), the most evocative. Most of the and watching the city passing by is shops and stoas have been reduced like being in the theater. See p 98. to rubble, but just enough remains (including the best-preserved Greek 3 Wandering into Anafiotika. My temple in the world and an ancient favorite Athens neighborhood is not

04_9781118045961-prechap01.indd4_9781118045961-prechap01.indd 4 8/15/11 7:17 PM 5 15 Favorite Moments clock tower and weather station) to greatest monuments of antiquity. give you an idea of what the place Think of the experience as time must have been like when Socrates travel. See p 26. sat with his students on shady porti- 8 Getting lost in the National cos and vendors hawked spices and Archaeological Museum for a oils. See p 9. couple of hours. You don’t have to 5 Seeing the reliefs in the Acrop- be a classics scholar to realize olis Museum. More than any other you’ve stumbled into an embarrass- ancient pieces, these fragments of ment of riches at Athens archaeol- exquisitely carved marble capture ogy museum. No need to be snippets of good-natured divinity methodical in your approach, just and humanity—in one, the goddess wander and stop in front of the Athena Nike fastens her sandal pieces that catch your eye: All those (something you didn’t think god- figures frozen in marble for eternity; desses had to do); priests, soldiers, all that gold, jewelry, and pottery. and ordinary citizens parade across My favorites are the colorful fres- the Parthenon friezes, and you coes that capture residents of the almost want to jump in and join the Minoan settlement of Akrotiri on procession. See p 28. Santorini going about everyday life as it was more than 3,500 years 6 Experiencing an outdoor the- ago. See p 38. ater. A bit like an American drive-in, with a distinctly Athenian twist: The 9 Admiring the figures in the Cine Paris and other open-air, roof- Museum of Cycladic Art. It’s hard top cinemas screen films under the to distinguish the smooth, oblong, stars, accompanied by a breeze, a elongated figures from the modern glass of wine, and in some cases an pieces of Henry Moore, Picasso, and Acropolis view. For live action, take Modigliani they’ve inspired. Their a seat in the Odeon of Herodes timelessness is haunting. See p 14. Atticus for classical drama or opera. 0 Seeing Athens from the top of See p 128. Mount Lycabettus. Of the many 7 Walking along the Grand heights in the city, this craggy, pine- Promenade. Even Athenians get a covered rise—Athens’s highest hill— thrill every time they follow this provides the best vantage point. You walkway around the base of the don’t have to be a kid to think the Acropolis Hill past some of the ride up on the Teleferik (funicular) is

Athens’s Agora.

04_9781118045961-prechap01.indd4_9781118045961-prechap01.indd 5 8/15/11 7:17 PM 6 a heck of a lot of fun, and the walk back down into Kolonaki is invigorat- ing. You’ll surely get a kick out of being so high above Athens, catch- ing the breeze, and seeing the spec- tacle of the city spreading out at your feet and the Aegean glistening in the distance. See p 87. ! Eating souvlaki on “Kebab Street.” Head to the bottom of 15 Favorite Moments Mitropoleos Street in Monastaraki and take a whiff—a dozen or so tav- ernas serve deliciously juicy lamb. Sit down at one of the outdoor tables for Produce on sale at Central Market. a full meal or a skewer, washed down with a cold beer. How much better leave the premises with anything can a casual meal be? See p 105. more adventurous than a plastic bag of olives (the most delicious in the @ Sailing from Piraeus. Where world). See p 81. else could you take a short subway ride, hop on a boat, and be on a $ Gazing out to sea from the beautiful island (a Greek island!) Temple of Poseidon. You only have within an hour? My favorite getaway to make the pleasant trip down the is beautiful little Hydra—walk up Attic coast to Sounion to appreciate narrow streets lined with stone how ancient Greeks gave rise to the mansions, hike across herb-scented concept that location is everything. countryside to a monastery, take a It’s easy to see how the sight of the dip from the rocks, and be back in majestic temple warmed the hearts Athens in time for dinner. See p 89. of sailors returning to Athens after months at sea. See p 20. # Browsing the Central Market. Big, noisy, smelly, and fragrant, this % Coming upon Kapnikarea market’s indoor and outdoor stalls Church. This little Byzantine gem bring together all the food of Greece, sits right in the middle of Ermou from exotic denizens of the deep to Street, and just setting eyes on the country cheeses and swinging car- old stones and carvings immediately casses. For me, just looking at all transports you away from the con- these riches is one of the city’s culi- temporary buzz to a different time nary experiences, even if I don’t and place. See p 20.

The Odeon of Herodes Atticus.

04_9781118045961-prechap01.indd4_9781118045961-prechap01.indd 6 8/15/11 7:17 PM The Best Full-Day 1 Tours

05_9781118045961-ch01.indd5_9781118045961-ch01.indd 7 8/15/11 7:17 PM 8 The Best in One Day

31 National Archaeological Plateia Thissio 9 Paleologou KonstantinouKonstantinou Museum s 2 as Ancient Agora n u u LiLiosion us 3 o i o oulina Grand Promenade vrio Nat’l. Mezonos Finou Iliou sio Tositsa 4 n Technical Acropolis AcharnoAcharnon tara ameon KerameonK Univ. of Athens T. Diligiani Psaron ami eptem BoumbBoumboulin 5 ZZami No AristoteloAristotelous Acropolis Museum Sonierou S 28 OktovrOktovriou Stournari Favierou 3 Septemvriou 6 Mager Solomou Hadrian’s Arch Marni Victor Hugo VATHI Kapodistriou Kodratou7 Akominatou EXARCHIA Plaka Chalkokondili 10 M axourgio38 u Thanasis Karolou ordz Kolokinthous Veranzerou Karaiskaki DzDzordz The Best Full-Day Tours 9 National Archaeological Sq. SatSatovriandouovriandou gos enandro n KalKallergi Museum ni emistokleous hous MMenandrou h Giatrakous a TThemistokleous lergi ouil Koleti chileo Agiou KonstandinouK KKaningos n A 10 Exarchia Square onsta ndi Omonia mma nou i E Iasonos Kolonou M Sq. 0 1/4 mi Zinonos Omonia BenakBenaki Emmanouil Fidiou PaPanepistimiou AAkadimias 0 1/4 km ka nepi Ma Deligiori d LikoLikourgou imias rathonos urgo Tsaldari u stimiou Millerou Keramikou PP.. Tsaldari

iou ous

ran Agisilaou City Hall GeGeraniou National EEpikourou SokratSokratous Athens Municipal pikourou Library Art Gallery SofoklSofokleous Menandrou e ous smazoglou PePesmazoglou M Piraeos Eleftherios ou Panepistimiou University Sq. d Stadiou Aristofanous Evripidou of Athens Aiolou

romilingou KriKriezi AristiAristidou Ag. MarkouMarkou Klath- Academy PsaPsaromilingouAg. Asomaton P ez ari Eschilou SSari ra monos of Athens Dipilou i x LeokorioLeokoriou AnAnargiron ite Sq. soma argiron lo u Vissis s Ogigou ados Athinas ton PallPallados u PSYRRIPSYRRI V i MiaouMiaouli o k r a eo k u KKolokotroniolokotron is i lidoni ra Ermou li Me a E K MONASTIRAKI L v e

aan k Thissio k AthA n thinedosinedos a M g Monastiraki eeli PePerikleosrikleos M l i IIfestoufestou 38 s t r M a ErmoErmouu Adr P iitropoleostro s ianou annddr pol oss eos ] ou Stoa of ou AttalosAttalos Areos Voulis Othonos 31 AiolAiolou os Nikis 2 Peelopidalopi AAdrianoudrianou ApoApollonosllon d mantos Apostolou Pavlou Pavlou a Aka Ancient

Agora s leous o s Nikode e mou o 7 h u non n t o n SSholiou id a h h r e elli P MniskMniskleous c i oliou rineon Dioskouron p eor r I Ot h ia PLAKA FilFilelli T s E on Tr ine Rangavaip th o da d Ky o as 4 n i anou DDeedaaloulou al ACROPOLIS ri Herodes d Thalou

AAdrianou Atticus Vas. AmAmalias T Lisikratous Theater h

r

a Pnyx Hill 3 s 6 i l l V DDionysiouion Areopagitou o as ysiou Ar u . O eopagi lga tou Vyronos Temple of s RRovertouover Galli Olympian Zeus t ou Galli Kallisperi 5 M Akropoli D iako ni u A tha Previous page: A statue of a discus thrower in Athens. nas iou

Makriyan

05_9781118045961-ch01.indd5_9781118045961-ch01.indd 8 8/15/11 7:17 PM 9 The Best in ven if you’ve set your sights on a sunny Aegean island, Eyou will not want to overlook the city that gave rise to much of western culture. Give yourself at least a day to explore this sprawling metropolis, where all you have to do is lift your eyes to gaze upon the symbol of the Golden Age of Greece, the Acropolis. A day hardly One Day does justice to the city, but it will be enough time to see many of the masterworks of the ancient world, and to get a sense of modern Greek life as well. START: Thissio Square. Metro: Thissio.

days when St. Paul preached Christi- ★★ 1 Plateia Thissio. Begin the anity here and Socrates sat on a day as many Athenians do, lingering bench expounding his philosophical over a coffee and a “toast” (a grilled principles. @ 1 hr. See p 34. cheese or grilled ham-and-cheese sandwich) at a cafe. Athinaion Polit- 3 ★★★ Grand Promenade. A eia (33 Apostolou Pavlou and 1 Aka- cobblestone-and-marble, pedes- mantos sts.; y 210/341-3795) and trian-only boulevard skirts the other cafes on this animated square Acropolis Hill, providing a stroll afford views of the Ancient Agora, through the millennia all the way the Acropolis, and across the city, from the Agora (p 34) to Hadrian’s Lycabettus Hill. @ 30 min. Apostolou Arch (p 31). Follow the walkway Pavlou and Iraklidon sts. $. through scented pine, olive, and cypress groves around the base of Filopappou Hill, then make the 2 ★★ Ancient Agora. The cen- ascent for a close-up look at the ter of commercial, administrative, Acropolis through the Beule Gate. and social life in ancient Athens is @ 15 min. See p 26. today a jumble of broken columns and crumbling foundations strewn 4 ★★★ Acropolis. The beloved, among olive, pink oleander, 2,400-year-old landmark of Greece’s cypress, and palm trees. The sole Golden Age stands high above the remaining ancient structure is the city (Acropolis means “High City”), an Hephaisteion, the best-preserved enduring symbol of perfection that Greek temple in the world, from the instills pride in even the most hard- 5th century B.C. The Stoa of Attalos nosed Athenians and awe in their vis- is a mid-20th-century reconstruc- itors. Wars, plunder, pollution, and tion, but all the same evokes the neglect have taken their toll on the

For 2,400 years, a climb to the Acropolis has proven to be a peak experience for visitors.

05_9781118045961-ch01.indd5_9781118045961-ch01.indd 9 8/15/11 7:17 PM 10 The Best Full-Day Tours The entrance to the Acropolis Museum overlooks the Makriyanni excavation site.

Parthenon, the harmonious temple galleries. What’s not here are many to Athena, and the smaller monu- segments of the Parthenon Frieze, ments that surround it on the hilltop. carted off to England from 1801 to Even so, in its sun-bleached beauty, 1804. Greece wants these treasures the Acropolis continues to show the back, and stunning quarters on the heights to which a civilized society museum’s top floor await their can aspire. @ 2 hr. See p 22. return. @ 2 hr. See p 28. 5 ★★★ Acropolis Museum. 6 ★★ Hadrian’s Arch. This The sculptures and statuary that beautifully preserved, albeit soot- once adorned the temples of the darkened, triumphal arch was Acropolis—a breathtaking presence erected in honor of the emperor in through the tall windows—are A.D. 131. The monument then shown to beautiful advantage among divided the old Greek city from the acres of glass and marble. Caryatids new Roman city that Hadrian, an (sculptures of women taking the ardent Hellenophile, endowed with place of columns or architectural many temples and monuments. supports), statues of korai (maidens) Hadrian considered Athens to be dedicated to Athena, figures of kouri the cultural capital of the Roman (young men), and elaborate Empire and struck his claims to the friezes—4,000 works altogether— city by having the marble on the are displayed in the light-filled east side of the arch inscribed with “this is the city of Hadrian and not of The Plaka is brimming with souvenirs and Theseus” and the west side with shoppers. “This is Athens, once the city of The- seus.” @ 10 min. See p 31. 7 ★★ Plaka. The sprawling old quarter beneath the Acropolis is a remnant of 19th-century Athens, with Byzantine churches and the occasional fragment of the ancient city sprinkled among the narrow lanes. With alleys, simple, bougain- villea-clad houses, and a round-the- clock holiday atmosphere, the Plaka also exudes the cheerful ambiance of a Greek island. Vendors hawk sou- venirs (especially along Adrianou

05_9781118045961-ch01.indd5_9781118045961-ch01.indd 10 8/15/11 7:17 PM