Preview This Preview Download Consists of Six Topics Taken from Across the Range of More Than 80 in the Full Guide

The Longtail Guide to Royan

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Preview This preview download consists of six topics taken from across the range of more than 80 in the full Guide. We hope it gives you a ‘taster’ of what the Guide offers to help you get the most from your visit to Royan and the surrounding area.

The full copy of the Guide is available for immediate download at http://www.royan.co.uk priced at just £3.50.

Your feedback Your views are important to us and we very much appreciate any feedback you have about this guide. Please email us at [email protected] with any questions, suggestions or comments. Your feedback will contribute to making future editions of the Guide better.

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Longtail Guide to Royan –preview Get the full version at www.royan.co.uk

TABLE OF CONTENTS Note this is the Table of Contents of the full Guide. Only the topics marked in red are included in this preview download.

WELCOME TO ROYAN  Royan blog  Online maps o Location  Climate  Economy

HISTORY

 Early times and English influences  Religious wars  Tourism arrives  Second World War  Rebirth and reconstruction

GETTING THERE

THE BEACHES  Conche de St-Georges  La Grande Conche  Conche de Foncillon  Conche du Chay  Conche de Pontaillac  Conche de Gilet o St Palais sur Mer, Le Platin Plage  La Grande Côte  La Palmyre  La Baie de Bonne Anse  Côte Sauvage  Naturist beaches

LOCAL ATTRACTIONS o La Palmyre Zoo  Jardins du Monde, Royan  Abbaye aux Dames, Saintes  Roman Amphitheatre, Saintes  Royan Cathedral  Marais  Archaeological site at Fâ  La Rochelle Aquarium  La Roche Courbon (Sleeping Beauty’s castle)  Corderie Royale at Rochefort  L’Hermione at Rochefort Longtail Guide to Royan –preview Get the full version at www.royan.co.uk

 Gironde Estuary – Parc de l’Estuaire  Les Grottes de Régulus & Les Grottes de Matata  Cordouan Lighthouse

TOWNS & VILLAGES  La Rochelle o Saintes  Brouage – citadel port  Talmont  Mornac sur Seudre  Meschers-sur-Gironde  Ronce Les Bains  Pons  Saujon  Cognac – the town  Jonzac  St Savinien  L'Eguille  St Jean d'Angély

THE ISLANDS

 Île de Ré  Île de Aix  Île d’Oléron  Île Madam

FURTHER AFIELD  Bordeaux  The Medoc vineyards  Saint-Émilion and its vineyards o Marais Poitevin

NIGHTLIFE

KID'S STUFF  Horse and pony riding  Mini-Golf  Le Parc Indian Forest  Youpiland  Ferme de Magné

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SPORTS & ACTIVITIES  Walks  Wildlife  Cycling  Golf  Surfing  Boating o Fishing

COGNAC & PINEAU  A Short History  The Appellations  Vintage  Tasting and distillery visits  Pineau des Charentes

EATING OUT  Local cuisine  Restaurants cafés and bars

MARKETS, BROCANTE & SHOPPING  Markets  Royan Central Market  Le Marché du Parc  Other Local Markets  Brocante and Antiques  Shopping

APPENDICES I French/ English Menu Reader II Dates of French Public Holidays

Longtail Guide to Royan –preview Get the full version at www.royan.co.uk

WELCOME TO ROYAN

Royan is undoubtedly a wonderful place to relax and soak up the sun. A favourite of the French themselves, there are miles of wonderful sandy beaches and coves with the added advantage of the freshness of the Atlantic Ocean. The summer weather matches the Mediterranean yet you can still find an empty beach even in August.

But there is much more to enjoy and this guide aims to provide you with the local knowledge of the best beaches, culture, places to visit and things to do so that you can get the most from your visit to this delightful region of France.

Royan blog Use the dedicated blog at www.royan.co.uk to check out the latest news and to feedback any comments you have about your visit to Royan.

Online maps Most of the beaches, attractions and places of interest described in the guide are also included on the interactive online map that accompanies this guide at www.royan.co.uk The map enables you to find precise locations, get directions from where you are staying and plan your days out.

Longtail Guide to Royan –preview Get the full version at www.royan.co.uk

Location Royan is situated on the Atlantic coast (about 60 km south of La Rochelle and 90 km north of Bordeaux) at the mouth of the Gironde estuary where the combined flows of three of France's great rivers, the Dordogne, the Lot and the Garonne meet the sea. It is the fourth largest town in the department of Charente-Maritime and naturally merges with its coastal neighbours, St Georges de Didonne to the south and Vaux sur Mer to the north.

Along the coast outbreaks of limestone cliffs have created a series of sandy beaches known locally as Conches. The smallest is La Conche du Pigeonnier which is just few hundred metres wide and the largest is La Grande Conche which is over 2.5 kilometres wide.

The area to the north of Royan, towards Marennes, Rochefort and the Seudre and Charente rivers, consists of very low lying salt and fresh water marshes (Les Marais) and wide silted estuaries which create the perfect habitat for oysters and mussels - making the region the most productive in France - as well as thousands of migrating wildfowl and majestic birds of prey.

To the south of Royan lies the Gironde, the widest estuary in Europe (being about 8 km wide at its mouth) and with its cliff-top villages, tiny ports and unspoilt countryside is a designated nature reserve. Travel further down the Gironde and the banks on either side are home to the famous Bordeaux vineyards.

Travelling east from the town you will find the gentle unspoilt countryside of Charente- Maritime and the cognac vineyards.

Longtail Guide to Royan –preview Get the full version at www.royan.co.uk

THE BEACHES

Although it started life as a small port, the sea and beaches are the raison d'être of Royan today. You can choose from child-friendly sandy beaches with restaurants close at hand to the wild, almost wilderness, Côte Sauvage beaches where even in the height of summer you can find your own place on the Atlantic Coast.

The following is a taken from the descriptions of twelve selected local beaches included in the full guide which follow the coastline starting from St Georges de Didonne travelling north. The location of each of the beaches can be found on the map that accompanies this guide at www.royan.co.uk

St Palais sur Mer, Le Platin Plage Le Platin Plage beach is just north of St Palais sur Mer (about 5 km from Royan). A favourite beach of the locals, it is definitely worth a visit. A wide sweeping cove with a backdrop of pine trees, coastal villas and the Coudre lighthouse. The southern edge is formed by the rocky outcrop of Pont du Diable (Devil's Bridge) which is great for exploring rock pools and for sunsets. The beach generally shelves gently although you do need to pay more attention at high tide especially with kids because the rocks can be hidden and are covered with sharp edges of shellfish. There are no facilities on the beach itself although St Palais with restaurants, shops and a market is only about 500m away. There is a small parking area right by the beach if you follow the signs for Platin Plage/Pont Diable but if this is full there is also parking in side streets further north. Even October brings the chance for a stroll along the beach rewarded by hot chocolate in St Palais.

Le Platin Plage in October

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LOCAL ATTRACTIONS The following topic is taken from the full guide which covers fourteen of what are considered to be the best tourist attractions in the area. Entry prices and times shown in the guide are as up to date as possible (Spring 2012) but please bear in mind they are liable to change at any time.

La Palmyre Zoo

La Palmyre is one of the most well-known zoos in Europe with over 1,000 animals to see in spacious enclosures and is a great place to visit for adults and children alike. It is understandable that some people may object to zoos as a matter of principle but it is perhaps worth considering La Palmyre as a special case because it enjoys a good reputation for its work in animal conservation. Depending on the time of year of your visit you may be able to see many newly born animals.

Flamingos at the entrance to La Palmyre Zoo

The Zoo is open all year: 9am–7pm 1st April to 30th September, and 9am–6pm the rest of year. You need to allow around 4 hours for your visit – there is a clearly signed (push chair friendly) path to take you around all the animals. Bear in mind that the zoo can get very busy during the peak season of August - especially on days when the weather is not so great for going on the beach!

Amenities : bar (with fast food, hot dogs, sandwiches and crêpes), cold drinks machines, ice creams and gift shop are located together inside the zoo grounds near the entrance/exit.

Tariff: adults : € 15, children 3-12 : € 10

The zoo is wheelchair accessible. There is plenty of free parking on the main D25 road directly opposite the zoo. For health and safety reasons, dogs are not allowed in the zoo, even on leads.

Longtail Guide to Royan –preview Get the full version at www.royan.co.uk

TOWNS & VILLAGES The full guide includes visitor information to fourteen of the most interesting local towns and villages. For this preview we have selected the historic town of Saintes which is about 20 minutes’ drive from Royan.

Saintes

Whereas Royan is a place primarily geared for holidaymakers, nearby Saintes is a delightful example of an ordinary French town with the added benefit that a visit allows you to explore 2,000 years of history. Its origins lie in Celtic times when a small settlement was created by the Santon tribe - this has given rise to the name given to the region, which continues today, of Saintonge. In the first century BC the Romans conquered much of France and established their regional capital, Mediolanum, on the site of modern day Saintes. They choose this site because in was the 'crossroads' where the major Roman route from Lyon to Acquitaine crossed the Charente river. During Roman times the town became very prosperous and one can still see remnants in the Arch of Germanicus, the Amphitheatre and the Thermal baths. Christianity came early to Saintes and the town boasts many magnificent religious buildings such as the Abbaye aux Dames and St Pierre Cathedral.

View across the rooftops of Saintes to the cathedral of St Pierre

During the 17th to 19th centuries the town developed both as an administrative centre and as trading port on the Charente for cognac, agricultural produce and other goods and during this time many attractive merchant’s houses and other buildings were erected along the left bank of the river. The town declined in importance with the arrival of railways which replaced the river as the main means of transport, and local influence and power shifted to La Rochelle. Today the town retains its rich heritage and is a centre for art and culture.

Longtail Guide to Royan –preview Get the full version at www.royan.co.uk

Saintes is certainly full of things to do – here are a few suggestions:

 Roman past – visit the Arch Germanicus, an imposing landmark on the right bank of the river near the town centre (no entry charge) or visit the ruins of the Amphitheatre and get an eerie sense of the spectacles the site saw over a thousand years ago. (See Attractions section for details of opening times and charges)  Visit the Abbaye aux Dames - now a cultural centre, this remarkable set of buildings was originally a Benedictine convent but has also served as a garrison and a prison. (About 5 minutes’ walk east from the Arch Germanicus. See Attractions section for details of opening times and charges)  Wander around the narrow streets of the St Pierre district, the heart of the old town which once bustled with the activity of merchants but is now full of shops, restaurants and cafes plus an excellent market every morning except Monday.  Take a river trip on one of the many boats that travel along the Charente  Taste Cognac and Pineau – Saintes is close to the heart of the 'Appelation Cognac Controlee' area and there are lots of local distilleries offering tastings. A good plan is to meander (by car) along the banks of the Charente river using the D24 road from Saintes towards Chaniers and take your pick from the various Dégustation Cognac et Pineau notices you see along the way. (Remember however that French rules on driving and drinking are very strict).

FURTHER AFIELD

Staying near Royan affords the opportunity, if time allows, to venture further afield to explore this region of France – the full guide covers four selected ‘days out’ – Bordeaux, The Medoc Vineyards, St Emilion and the Marais Poitevin. For this sample we have included the Marais Poitevin.

Marais Poitevin The Marais Poitevin is a large area of marshland situated to the north of the department of Charente–Maritime consisting of a maze of picturesque canals predominately now used for tourist boating but originally to transport animals and agricultural produce. Many of the main canals are covered in an unusual form of tiny duckweed giving it its nickname of la Venise Vert (the green Venice).

The Marais was originally formed during the last ice age as a large shallow sea basin (Gulf of the Pictons) which became silted up by deposits left by rivers. Benedictine monks started the process of draining the marshes to provide farmland and the remnants of their abbeys can still be seen in the area. Today the Marais Poitevin has over 500km of navigable canals and a further 20,000 km of smaller canals and ditches. The area provides a very rich natural habitat that supports a diverse range of wildlife with hundreds of species of flora, fish, birds, mammals, amphibians and reptiles.

Longtail Guide to Royan –preview Get the full version at www.royan.co.uk

Coulon in the Marais Poitevin with barques for hire

The best way to see this beautiful area of waterways is naturally by boat. The traditional boats used in the marais are called barques (flat-bottomed punt-like vessels) and these can be hired from various piers or wharfs (look out for the word embarcadère). A good place to aim for is Coulon, usually considered the ‘capital’ of the Marais Poitevin, which is a picturesque village on a broad stretch of canal with a good range of boat hire facilities as well as restaurants and shops. Boats and canoes can be hired for just an hour or two or a half or whole day. Or you can be lazy and choose a punt with a punter who will also provide a commentary and point out features of interest during your trip.

Examples of tariffs are: Place on boat for 10 people for one hour trip with a guide - €8 per adult and €6 per child. Hire of barque and guide (who also punts the boat!) for four people for an hour - €12 per person. Hire of single seater kayak (unescorted) - €20 for half day.

An alternative to taking a boat is to walk or cycle along the paths by the canals where you can find plenty of spots to stop for a picnic.

Location: Coulon is about 10 km west of Niort and the journey time from Royan by car is about an hour and a half.

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES

The full Guide covers a range of sports and activities that can be enjoyed in and around Royan – in this preview we have included information about one of them - Fishing.

Fishing Fishing is a very popular pastime in Charente- Maritime and you can try your hand at virtually all forms of the sport. A permit is required for all canal and river fishing which is Longtail Guide to Royan –preview Get the full version at www.royan.co.uk available from tackle shops and tourist information centres costing 30 € for a 7 day permit and 15 € for a one day permit. No permit is required for sea fishing.

When river fishing you can aim to catch roach, perch, pike, bream and brown trout and a few suggested spots to head for are:

 Plan d’eau near the centre of St Jean d’ Angély is a lake formed from the Boutonne River which is classified as a First Class River for fishing (This is also a pleasant spot for non-anglers with riverside walks, pedalos, children’s play area and a café)  Le canal Charente –Seudre at Saint-Agnant between Marennes and Rochefort.  Le Seudre at Saujon  Le Canal de Marans near La Rochelle, particularly near the bridge over the canal close to the village of Andilly

(All these locations are included on the interactive on-line map)

Sea fishing from the beach is known as le surf casting and is allowed from most beaches (except the busier beaches during the summer season), popular catches from the beaches at Royan include sea bass. There is also fishing from harbours and various commercial organised sea angling trips that leave from the pleasure port at Royan.

Another very popular local pastime is La pêche à pied - collecting shell fish such as mussels and winkles on the rocks at low tide. This is allowed in many places but pay attention to notices on a particular beach restricting the type or size of creatures that can be taken, also there is a general rule that you should only take what you intend to eat yourself.

We hope you enjoyed this preview of the Guide. The full version is available for immediate download for just £3.50 at http://www.royan.co.uk