05_069318 ch01.qxp 1/23/07 10:01 AM Page 7

The Best 1 Full-Day Tours

COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL 05_069318 ch01.qxp 1/23/07 10:01 AM Page 8

8 The Best in One Day

t

n

d

e

e r GrandGrand l Parc n i l 0 1/4 mile a o

o

r u v i t

ChaletChalet i e l J r l

D

R h -

e

Jeanne- u l

i p

b a e B r

o e v u u 0 1/4 km n t

r a u é e Mance e H s r r i L

d - ParcParc dudu Mont-RoyalMont-Royal r H

d

MolsonMolson t h . n . e

Royal-VictoriaRoyal-Victoria v S C v

A u

a

- StadiumStadium a r -

HospitalHospital t t Shriner'sShriner's Re e dp avenue des S P S in s u

a

r t Full-Day Tours Full-Day a h v enu HospitalHospital e

C C e e t da re e s t u r n n c e u

r

r s e

i

e r

l

l n MONT-ROYALMONT-ROYAL u i e n e l i a l V es Pins i d L a e D avenueavenu des Pins MontrMMontréalontréaall

- e - b ru m e C h errier r

t d a t GeneralGeneral

F U S n l

ru i e Pr - ince - Ar - thur e e Square

HospitalHospital a t ParcParc e e t u e

S t ô Sherbrooke u c S q St - Louis

i S y r H

McGillMcGill RutherfordRutherford n e t l ' e

The Best n

i i l a e

a av.a Docteur - Penfield u v ssity . i u e D UniversityUniversity r o r m c c M t e e r n u r n r u - r - P e o e d n n r r o f e ie o l a l d v e e D o e i e c s . h P o é n - h s h v n n c n

t s m i e RedpathRedpath C g t p a l d n o a m U u h i a y r S u a . n h r t m p c av.

i MuseumMuseum v i u r A e n M s o t d

n d i J M ilto a S n e

e l D u y

o v e d e m

t B 3 u e e e u a H e u e R l k r e e M o e e T ruer Univer u o m e e d r

n b l u r ruer Aylmer n u c e a u

u P u h i r e a S e

a ruer Simpson e r ruer Durocher l t n e u

u C e M u r u u McGillMcGill

D S r e g r

ô ruer Redpath

u

e io e v r ruer du MusMusée t n a e Ont d UniversityUniversity e e u u PollackPollack a a r e e 2 - ruer Peel u S u d u

ruer McTavish ruer Drummond ruer Stanley e ConcertConcert ruerue SherbrSherbrookeooke e MusMMuséeusée desdes 1 u e s e k

ruer de la Montagne

r h Beaux-ArtsBeaux-Arts HallHall u - ruerue Sherbrooke Université S r h a erbroo p N ke l

o

e C du Québec t

ruer Lincoln i s u e i g o L QUARTIERQUARTIER ri inc McCordMcCord MuseumMuseum à Montréal ta r o e ln e On h s u rue e (UQAM) r C DUDU MUSÉEMUSMUSÉE f l av.av du PrPrésident - Kennedy - . du Préssidentid - Kennedy a e LATIN PeelPeel nt - Kennedy t c Grande S e t Y Guy-Guy- bd.bd. ddee Maisonneuv

Mais g onne e uve QUARTER Bibliothèque e Place-des-Arts legel e ConcordiaConcordia M l

u

d o du Québec

ConcordiaConcordia r l

C e e McGillMcGill Place-des- i CENTRE-VILLECENTRE-VILLE UniversityUniversity f u l bd. de M l a ruer Metcalfe s isonneuve i rue Mayor Arts e n

G

ruer Ste n a u u e S l Saint-Laurent te - CatherineCa c Berri-UQAM th g e er ine e Musée d'art i M

a M

e

h y t Université t d t

a P contemporain p é n McGill Col a n n e . k y y r o o t

y e o v du Québec t c u e d i de Montréal M h l n u c ruer Mansfield av.a rue S te - Catherin a e M e s n - s m s n i e G à Montréal r

SquareSquare u r e t A t k M eescent a

B a m ruer Peel e r t r l e - ruer Cathcar u S ue C u a

th c a u e rt v a (UQAM) S C n t PhillipsPhillips q i r r l a

i i e e e S e L n d Complexe C D u n e u SquareSquare t d u i

u

ruer Guy n e g r U ruer Macka e - u ruer Bishop

a ruer St - Mathieu Desjardins u e m n u e DorchesterDorchester

e ruer Stanle xandrex

t

C C s ruer Cr e e a b o u i y u e S

r ô

bd.b Ren u e ô u S l d. R e u

e D n ruer Drummond r é - L n éévesque r vvesque ruer de la Montagne es

qu

t e t u c

A - H

u e

e e ruer University n

- - t e

D

l a e

t t

S d

d bd. René - Lévesque e

- l B

n u S u

u M CITÉCITCITÉ DUDU COMMERCECOMMERCE i PlacePlace a t r

i - r a

n r

e

B CathCCathédraleathédraledrale Marie-Marie- B e e i ddrale S r

e e dudu

d

u e e u ÉLECTRONIQUEÉLLECTRONIQUEECTRONIQUE a édraleé e

n u r r Reine-du-MondeReine-du-Monde a h S r e B n LE CanadaCanada t ruer de la GauchetiGauchetière e CHINATOWN u v e u a d e a u e ruer Argyle l ruer Saint - Ale ue a e A Ga e rg u r 720 C y c J e le h r ère ti u e e VILLAGE tiè GareGare la Gauch rree de rue r u - a

l r

H

Champ- Lucien-Lucien- BellBell CentraleCentrale e a e GareGare u Place- l r d l de-Mars L'AllierL'Allier CentreCentre a v. Viger n d'Armes WindsorWindsor e y a BonaventureBonaventure er u av. Vig u n ruerue St - Antoin ruer de la Cath G g S i t - s A n PlacePlace Square-Square- r s toi Montréal ne rueru u u e r

r

e L BonaventureBonaventure o e TorranceTo VictoriaVictoria u rran Convention Centre i ce

u l c e l ruer Guy e e

A ine nto s u rue St-A ruerue St - Antoine ' St - Antoi ruer Lusignan ne B ruerue SSt-Jacques n t-Ja L cques ruer McGill - e u Champ de Mars o

Montréal World r n rue des Fortifications e B Hôtel r

e

i i e M Trade Centre Dam c rueru St - Jacques e- e St - Jacqu de Ville e Notr e c u s e Place VIEUX-MONTRÉAL u ru

G L r Parc e i e l r d'Armes -Dame l rue Notre r u PlanPPlanétariumlanétariumtarium Dalhousie ruer Lucien-L'Allier e

i

i P Information dede MontréalMontrMontréalal -

t

S Notre-Dame-de Basilique Metro Station e e Royer aul ame ruerue SStt - MMau u Notre-Dame rue L St-P Bonsecours ruerue NotrNotre-Damee-D auricerice r rue ne Marché ruer Peel rue Le Moyne l ommu u C rueru St - Paul e St-Pau de la Bonsecours e e St - Paul ru rue

1

Musée des Beaux Arts

lliam Clocktower Wi 2 ruerue William P Place Architecture Café e ruerue WWilliamilli e am d'Youville Montréal Museum Quai

ruer Shannon l

3 u ruer Murray VIEUX-PORT de l'Horloge ruer Young McGill University/ u e of Anthropolgy u ruer Ann

e Quai u

e

S e & History

h M Jacques-Cartier

Redpath Museum Y

a

A o

u

n

u n r

4 n Quai

r n n n

a Musée d'Art Contemporain o to g g y n llin King Edward de Montréal 10 WellingtonWe Quai Alexandra 5 Basilique Notre Dame ruerue r 6 Les Delices de l'Erable ive e R 7 nc Vieux-Port wre La 8 Hôtel de Ville St.

Previous page: Stained glass windows inside the Oratoire St-Joseph. 9 The Best in One Day Clocktower r

e

o

e

i

r e c

e n r r é

d w n

A r -

t ence ence e S

e

u

rue St - And - St rue r

E r

e

ré k

i a w

o

rue St - And - St rue

awr awr a

m

r r é

d

L n

A

t -

t

r S

t

e

.

u

r

M And - St rue

o

G

e stophe t h

p

o

t

s i a r

h rrrier C

St. L L St. S St. -

t

rue St - Chri - St rue

S é

r

l

n e

u

r e

stophe k

rue St - And - St rue

rue St - Chri - St rue o

a

a

e al

stophe A

p

D u e -

h

p A o t s i c

r E

h rue St - Chri - St rue

C O -

t - r S

e

e é

u

r a

x

q

h n

stophe e

r

i

r

i

Q e

L o

rue St - Chri - St rue e

t LEL LE r

ert e b u

u t H

-

ert b t i S

l

e n MapMMap u r rue St - Hub - St rue C d r Area AreaA g rue St - Hub - St rue Jardin

e n

r e r e L s

L t a i U Quai Clocktower C t

o a I

o -

u

u VVieux- Vieux-

o d e

e JJardin

c

l

AL A

i

o

i -

rue Ontario Ontario rue r rue

r t

r ert e o MontrM Montréal b u r H

- r t S

u BotaniqueB É VILLAGE V VILLAGE

e N l h u r rue St - Hub - St rue e ert Botanique

l

e l s a ruer Che a

rue St - Hub - St rue h r

e a l e o R l

a

Sherbrooke S Sherbrooke i r

ParcPParc n y de l'Horloge u u y e i Grande Bibliothèque du Québec Notre-Dame-de Bonsecours T

u a

m

V

c e H

u

o

a - o

a

c '

que

t

a Berri-UQAM Berri-UQAM B N QuaiQ q DalhousieD i R u r c r e e e B e R

r e l u o rue Berri r rue

rue Berri rue Dalhousie -

r

-

t

r

rue Notre-Dame r rue rue Notre-Dame rue n

è t

h

t

a

t

bec

O D

c

b

a

a

e

o

d

r a

v t i l n

R -

ParcPParc

n

e e

f

u n rue Rivard r rue

rue Rivard rue ParcPParc

é i r e r e B

Plateau PlateauP u o d e o u rue Berri r rue rue Berri rue a e MONTRMMONTRÉAL o i e rr de l'Horloged e B s i e Lafontaine L r rueru Berri Centre-VilleCCentre-Ville n Lafontaine Mont-Royal M Mont-Royal Mont-RoyalM l

(UQAM) r Q Mont-Royal t

n

l

c a

e t

)

Université b

du Québec

à Montréal

al

o é

i

r

i o a u

s i n e e Denis Denis D

-

t g n i a S

e u rue Saint - - Saint r rue rue Saint - - Saint rue r i s é M Grande G BibliothB du Qud Notre-Dame-de N Bonsecours B

bec

b

t

r

V

é r

A

s

i

n n

e e

u D

-

t n

i

a

S

e

u

r

rue Saint - Denis - Saint rue

s

r rue Saint - Denis - Saint rue

u

e ours ours o

s c e

s

n v

o

B

o

Q e

u t rue Bonsec Bonsec rue r rue

e l i

olet o r Q D i

e u

r

rue Dr rue . e

v

olet u rue Dr rue U r

n v s r i M e (UQAM) ( u Montr

r

o

av. Vigerav. a

a

v e

Universit U

d R

à

R

i

n

n L

e

i

l u

u

J

-

i r

n u

e

H

n

Henri - Julie - Henri

.

t u e

v

e a

av. t n i u

g n

- a

S

Henri - Julie - Henri

du Qu

e

av. u E

rue Sanguinet r rue

rue Sanguinet rue o

é

r

q

que

e

h

u

t t

N e

n

i c

u

g

n e a

S T Square SSquare

c

a

que n

q e I

u

r rue Sanguinet rue l

St - Louis S e

rue Sanguinet rue l St - Louis e

r

e

l

i l a val val v s a

L C n

. R v i av. La a av.

av. La av. T s e n a c - Quai

tel a

i e o l t V

n s

r

éves

A ves

A v

ô n u

s

u March MMarché

e i

e o

e

é

e

s a

L LATIN

LATIN

- HHôtel

U e

k QuaiQ

a L

e

l

l t h i

V s

u e r B

d

l e tel de Ville de tel P t de Villed ô

H Bonsecours ' l

de Ville

r e t

d

.

v o av. de l'Hôtel de Ville de l'Hôtel de a av. av. de l'H de av. r o p -

i n

Bonsecours -

q a

QUARTER Q t QUARTER

M a

r Jacques-Cartier

o a

- L -

n o c

i l e

l u S

B

w

e d

r e C

m u a rue de Bullion de r rue rue de Bullion de rue e

M

r

é

T

e e

t

a n

b a

M n

8

e - a

n

n Jacques-CartierJ e

n d i

u

-

r e R e

h

r u u d L

e u

i o

a O

e e

R

e

rue St-Paul St-Paul rue r rue d

t

Coloniale

a

Champ-CChamp-

av.

e

l O

t a

i L n m m o h l o

C L Coloniale

. m v de-Mars d de-Mars a av. . -

n

S

i

S

e p .

a

t w P . m m

Sherbrooke Sherbrooke s

d

AL A

-

A

u

a

d

o o

D t

n d

n -

rue Ontario Ontario rue r rue

e bd.b de Maisonneuve u m

q i - n i i m

o i D

-

t

S t É

C C

e Quai u rue St - Dominique - St r rue

rue St - Dominique - St rue ère u

bd. René - L - Ren René bd. b bd.

e X

e E

St. Lawrence River Lawrence S St.

i River Lawrence St.

e

P e

a

re

a r

S

t

u r

720

R

e

u

q

i QuaiQ n a a

i

m

o u

D

-

t è

S

t

U

ruer Ste - Catherine h

e g l l u rue St - Dominique - St r rue

Saint-Laurent S Dominique - St rue Saint-Laurent

e t n e

r u a aurent s aurent rue rue r rue L

-

t S

e u rue St - L - St r rue

rue St - L - St rue T

o

Champ de Mars CChamp de Mars n h

7

E

e

e

6

e e i

King Edward

I

c

N

t

n e r u a

d L N

-

d d

t u

S

s

e u r

Laurent - St rue King Edward K

u

Laurent - St rue

rue St-Antoine St-Antoine rue r rue

r VIEUX-PORT V VIEUX-PORT

n

a

e

O e

e

s

e

k e r a l

C

o

e

u

rue Clark rue r

u u

k i

G

r N a u l

y

C m

u

e r r e u r

rue Clark rue

t

rue Notre-Dame Notre-Dame rue r rue

n

- o

M s u y

rue Clark rue a

rue Clark rue -

t

e m

R a a

e e

W

g

c

l

ain i

r

r r

v l

rue St - Urb - St rue s

c f X

e n i ain a b r

U

- i

avenuea des Pins t S

e u O r rue St - Urb - St rue o d

i u A L

A

t a

e - ' l

U r - p T n

a

e d s M

s

o

Place- d'Armes Place-P d'Armesd o E y a

u l l

A u

c

F r l I e s t ) e

n r

5 rue Ste - Famille - Ste rue Royer Le r rue Royer Le rue

x

al e é i

a u

e

al Museum

e e a QuaiQQuai

h

o n d o d

s r N

s e r x VIEUX-MONTRVVIEUX-MONTRÉAL a é i - M t t - r

bec

é t

u s s l

b t

t I

r

l t

e

e P

i t rue de la Gaucheti Gaucheti la la de de rue r rue

d e

s

n

e e r é

e -

l

A

e l l n

i Milton e u n m

a Alexandra A i F

- -

e e r t Arts t S Alexandra n

e e c H u r

rue Ste - Famille - Ste rue m d MiltonM c p A v ArtsA

o

e

Q c m a S e Q H

i e

o

a u a j

r

a

CHINATOWN CHINATOWN C

l

f a C U l c l m n (UQAM) l c s

q M n

Place-des- e

(UQAM) ( u D

A e Montr

Place-des-P

MontrMMontréal Museum of Anthropolgy of Anthropolgyo & History & History&

i

-

PlacePPlace al r

' Place-des-Arts Place-des-ArtsP o

Université a

l

e

n n

Universit U u

du Québec

à Montréal u e

c d

4

à n n

a i

M

-

e n

n r

rue des Fortifications Fortifications des des rue r rue a e

é

e

J St-Paul r rue d'Armesd St-Paul rue

e Complexe CComplexe d'Armes u

rue Jeanne - Mance - Jeanne r rue

a Mance - Jeanne rue n

o

r DesjardinsD

Desjardins

s

a

t

r

du Qu

i i

a

e

c

n

a

M t

-

u e t n t n a ParcPParc a e J n

a e u rue Jeanne - Mance - Jeanne r rue l Mance - Jeanne rue e r h . o r ManceM n BasiliqueB al o Mance

Jeanne-J a thurt

v

Jeanne-

a

r

d

e o

r

Notre-Dame N

é

'

av.a e

t l

c

r

a MontrMMontréal P

v

u d r p r

A e u n d e e v n avenue du Parc du a avenue Parc du avenue t l

n

-

o l

e

o

i

m

e d'art

n

r

e

o

y

r e

u e n r l e B Bleury Bleury

v e d

e

é e e u e

rue de de r rue

rue de de rue W

c

s

Convention Centre Convention C

M yyne

c

t

o

u

g

Convention Centre Convention

n l

C

o

s

e a n Basilique r i r h i

c e

t u o i

n u y P H

-

l t e n o u S rue Hutchinson Hutchinson rue r rue

i e al World u e rue St-Pierre r rue a St-Pierre rue

a V Notre-Dame

r Y PlacePPlace e

o M r é MusM

de Montrd

'

P

t contemporain c

M d

d'Youville d

e d'Youville

n a

Musée d'art de Montréal .

L

e

r

contemporain v o

e

u Trade Centre Trade T

e

av. Viger Viger Viger av. a av.

ruer Prince - Ar u

u MontrM ruer Mayor

ruer Le Mo

rue Mayor Trade Centre Trade Montréal World

05_069318 ch01.qxp 1/23/07 10:01 AM Page 9 Page AM 10:01 1/23/07 ch01.qxp 05_069318

rue Durocher rue

e

r r

e d h

n c

o a r x xandre xandre

u

e D

l

A e

- u

rue Durocher rue r t n i a S

e u rue Saint - Ale Ale - - Saint Saint rue r rue

e

r e m l y A

e u r n

y i n

m ll d i s o G e e Mc t ru t r

o e p u k

r e i i

a n l

s n c c l l e

l s i m i u

l l d l n a A a H l

c Cô - r e te r d a l

h u e n o q Be v a a e

a i -

l u

u

n l -

u

t o

S P l

K a

a

H t i

a t

o

i

o q

e M y

t

i

s r

e S v i

n U P

g - e S r u r r P c

C

M W

-

n

a

a i

o

t -

J t l

t l

y

t

i

s

r

e e

n u

v t a i n -

U S e

e e u c i r

e S u i t q u

r

- r d r W e S

i S V

l e t l o e r e

s l r e i t

m e u a y i

r d u é r r a u t t c u h u t

d r i i m i

P n c a G

l r t

r e l

s n h u c o e p i a e V r s t

l

o M -

r

e

e

s u

l f

p

G

e a

u

M e

g M e l

s l

u c a

r o

v C

d

l - l e e c o i a G d c v M

C

t r . v l a r

i u r a e M u y e t H n

a

. e a M n h e n a d r v R o M c e

d

t P -

n

u U

a

o

d

r

v

a R

G

d r e

u l e i

f e

s l n

a é M

e a o

u

r B

h

n

R

P

h

s C i i v t a T c n C M

e u l r

e a

c

o

y

t e f C R

l a

a c t e B M

i

e M u r r l l s n y

e n

i rue A e

r

t

u

e

e

l

a

G r

d

h s é

e t

a l

C

o e r a l e r

P e

d

e e u u r c r e v

e a

i

a

h

R on

k ann

u Sh

l e e u

M r e n P

e c - u e d o r q r r c U t a S o l u o

l

a

r n

o

l

m

d e

n y D e l n a a t S

e e e E u a r b s r e

P i

u Peel e

r e

é ru

r m

t

t n i

C r

L

o è i

d y

e r

P l a n a e t

t e S

n

e i u e L r a

d d o l a

e h n

e h l I

l t o

t i ng l

i You

n rue

c m

v

M

e S G

n é

d

n

a o i m V a m a u r u D n M t

u e W u

f r -

r

A

h

a W

n

a

e D

n d

n l

e - u o

m E - E

G e m C u r G D e

n e u ay r rr

Mu

R s e

e ue

P r t d c

u C e r R n d

e

ÉE n P

a t

s r E S

i

l r

u

l e

o E

T - I

R S

t l

o

e r

P e

n

g c

a t

n

r o s M

a l

c

e d

r

e i T

e

u e n r E

N

U n

C N e

U

r

u e

a n

g d

a e

s t B

n a

R o M

u

a l

E e d

r

e e

h Q u e r r M

C t e r a t M M I e A

a C d

u

o c

p u

e r

P T M

N r

d o U

U e

s ée n u

M

e u d

e u

e r

i

D

O

d t O n

r e

c e

u Q R s e r C

D

e u r

u n e

C

R

. r

.

e h

r

e i l

T l A '

L

v -

t n

d e v

i c

u

L

e

u

l r

U

s

a -

s

a a

r

b C

a p

y

o h

s

t i

s ' B

a

i e

u

t r h t n a p d e C R e

r r t e D u r i E e e i i d

l e e l s r A - L d i l p

r y -

É

n o e c s i

É g e x

e

A

e T

r

c r

u

u ' o

v

é y

t a u

I

k

c

s a

M

i

h e n u

r A

L

q L

a S H

n o

s

p

m n

i u S

a

n C e n u r S g i o s s u L

e L u e r

U e C e M r B A v u

a e r

é

d Y u y

u G L

e

u

e r r

y

u G

O

- e u C es r Neig s -

R de

e é s - -

n a

e e k n

t e i

T l u e

ô o

C u o

n d

o R

- l

N

q l a r

e c r

l l

a

y v c b

a n

e a

. o t i O d r a r a

i u

r

é

L J

c d

n e

e

t i -

p

u e

G i

h

h t

t

m n b

M a

n n

M s

-

e S t

S S

h o e e u

o o c r e

e C

G u

H e M r u

r u

r Y 05_069318 ch01.qxp 1/23/07 10:01 AM Page 10

10 ackling the major attractions of Montréal in one day may Tseem daunting, but follow the tour below and you’ll be weaving your way through the bilingual boulevards of the city with surprising efficiency. Don’t forget to slow down once in a while, or you’ll miss the little street-side occurrences that make the city so enchanting— like the wafting aroma of freshly baked bagels from St-Viateur or the

Full-Day Tours Full-Day sounds of a saxophone busker on Rue Ste-Catherine. START: Take the Métro to the Peel or Guy-Concordia station and walk along rue Sher- brooke ouest to the Musée des Beaux Arts.

The Best 1 ★★★ Musée des Beaux Arts. for families (1 adult, 3 kids under 16; Opened in 1912, the renowned or 2 adults and 2 kids under 16), free Musée des Beaux Arts is home to for kids 12 and under. Tues 11am– more than 30,000 works ranging in 5pm, Wed–Fri 11am–9pm, Sat–Sun style from French Impressionism to 10am–5pm. Ticket counter closes 30 20th-century modernism to contem- min. before museum closes. Métro: porary Canadian. The newer Jean- Peel or Guy-Concordia. Nöel Desmarais Pavilion, designed by noted Montréal architect Moshe The prices and ambience at the tiny, Safdie, contains the bulk of the eclectic 2 Architecture Café museum’s collection of 12th- to 19th- reflect its status as one of the few century art—painted, sculpted, or student-run cafes at McGill Univer- sketched by such names as Brueghel, sity. Students bring their own mugs Renoir, Monet, Picasso, and Cezanne. (there are paper cups for the unpre- Though the original building is home pared) to this cozy little nook, where to incredible pieces, you’re best off you can get a fresh cup of surpris- spending the majority of your visit in ingly tasty joe for C50¢ and other this modern addition. @ 2 hr. Avoid cafe fare (various pastries, scones) coming here on the weekends. 1379– while kicking back on almost-antique 1380 rue Sherbrooke ouest. y 514/ furniture. 815 rue Sherbrooke ouest 285-2000. www.mmfa.qc.ca. Free (in basement of McDonald-Harrington admission to permanent collection. building). www.arch.mcgill.ca/asa/ Temporary exhibitions: C$15 adults, archcafe.html. $. C$7.50 for seniors and students, C$30

Montréal’s Musée des Beaux Arts is home to over 30,000 works. 05_069318 ch01.qxp 1/23/07 10:01 AM Page 11

11 The Best modern Lorne Trottier building to the historic Arts Building. Also nestled inside the campus is the small, but noteworthy, Redpath Museum. Housed in a grand, 19th-century One Day in building, the museum is home to an intriguing Egyptian collection (sec- ond-largest in Canada) and a slew of fossils that draw lots of local elemen- tary school kids on field trips. @ 30 min. Rue Sherbrooke and Rue McGill College. www.mcgill.ca. Open daily. Free admission to museum. Museum open Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sun 1–5pm. Métro: McGill. 4 ★★ Musée d’Art Contem- porain de Montréal. The Cana- dian equivalent of New York’s MoMa displays modern works of every conceivable style, from the 1940s to the present day. Though most of the permanent collection’s works are Sculpture at the Museum Contemporain. the products of Québécois artists, 3 McGill University/Redpath there’s also a fair amount of famous international names (such as Ansel Museum. Prestigious McGill Univer- Adams and Vik Muniz) to be found sity, home to over 30,000 undergrads on the placards next to the paintings, and graduate students, was born sculptures, and photographs. when, in 1813, Scottish merchant Because new exhibitions arrive every James McGill bequeathed the land it few months, take advantage of sits on for the creation of a the guided tours (Wed at “Royal Institution for the 6:30pm and Sat–Sun at Advancement of Learn- 1pm and 3pm) to ing.” Today the cam- get acquainted with pus is a small green the newest works. oasis among the 1 @ 1 ⁄2 hr. 185 rue austere office Ste-Catherine ouest. buildings and y 514/847-6226. neon-lit malls that www.macm.org. pervade down- Admission (includes town Montréal. guided tour) C$8 Walk the campus’s adults, C$6 seniors, winding paths to C$4 students, free for admire its inter- kids under 12, C$16 esting collection for families; free of architectural Wed 6–9pm. Open styles—from the Tues–Sun 11am– Artifact from the 6pm (until 9pm Egyptian collection Wed); open Mon at the Redpath June 20–Sept 10. Museum. Métro: Place des Arts. 05_069318 ch01.qxp 1/23/07 10:01 AM Page 12

12 5 ★★★ Basilique Notre Dame. James O’Donnell, architect of this immense Catholic basilica (it can hold 4,000 worshippers), became its first parishioner though he was a Protes- tant when he began working on it. His creation (finished in 1824) was so Full-Day Tours Full-Day breathtaking and moving that once it was completed, he quickly con- verted. While visitors may not be motivated to get baptized after their

The Best visit, they are usually taken aback by its sheer beauty. The ethereal light- ing, gilded adornments and striking wooden altar are enough to warrant a good helping of “ooohs” and “aaaahs” from Catholics and non- Catholics alike. The appreciation con- tinues for the basilica’s light shows, which are set to music and make for Locals love to hang out at Vieux-Port on an experience that’s quite a bit more sunny days. exciting than the usual Sunday serv- ice. @ 30 min. 110 rue Notre-Dame and you can shop for excellent maple ouest. y 514/842-2925. Admission syrups, spreads, and candles while for basilica C$4 adults, C$2 ages 7–17, you take a breather at 6 Les free for those attending services. Light Delices de l’Erable. In addition to show C$10 adults, C$9 seniors, C$5 the usual cafe fare, this branch of a ages 7–17, free for kids ages 6 and small chain of shop/cafes serves under. Open Mon–Fri 8am–4:30pm, gelato. A plus: Curious customers Sat 8am–4:15pm, Sun 12:30–4:15pm. can peer into the kitchen through a Guided tours in English and French large window, tucked in the back of daily 9am–4pm. Call for light show the cafe, and watch the cooks manip- times. Métro: Place d’Armes. ulate maple into its various forms. 84 rue St-Paul est. y 514/765-3456. Maple syrup is synonymous with the Métro: Place d’Armes. $. Laurentian forest outside Montréal,

The breathtaking interior of the Basilique Notre Dame. 05_069318 ch01.qxp 1/23/07 10:01 AM Page 13

13 The Best 7 ★★★ = Vieux-Port. The city’s Old Port catapulted Montréal’s commercial and economic status over the last 200 years, but was a bit nOne Day in dreary until it got a face-lift in the early 1990s. Now, the converted waterfront, known as the Quays, is a playground for in-line skaters, cyclists, and couples out for a stroll. Bike rentals start at C$9.50 an hour (Conveyors Quay-Alexandra entrance; y 514/289-9927). Quadricycles for couples and families are also available for C$4.35 to C$5 an hour (Jacques Cartier Quay; y 514/849-9953). Any- one with sore feet can opt for the tram that scoots back and forth the length of the Old Port or for a relaxing daytime cruise on the St. Lawrence. By the end of the day most of the activity will have died down. Enjoy a meal in one of the restaurants, or The impressive Hôtel de Ville, overlooking head to the IMAX theater off Quai Place Jacque Cartier, is especially pictur- King Edward (p 37, bullet 6) for a esque at night. film. @ 1 hr. Information Center: 333 rue de la Commune ouest (at Rue extraordinary architecture. Easily McGill). y 514/496-7678. www.quay one of the most photogenic sites in softheoldport.com. Tram day pass Old Montréal. @ 30 min. 275 rue C$7 adults, C$5.50 seniors, C$5.50 Notre-Dame. y 514/872-3355. Free teenagers 13–17, C$5 children 12 admission. Daily 8:30am–4:30pm. and under, C$20 family. Métro: Métro: Champ-de-Mars. Champ-de-Mars, Place d’Armes, or Square Victoria. The Marché Bonsecours dominates the skyline of Vieux-Montréal. See p 59. 8 ★ Hôtel de Ville. The mayor of Montréal spends enough hours locked in his office in this impressive French Empire–style building that he probably only gets to enjoy the exterior’s wonderfully lit details dur- ing his lunch break. If you arrive before it closes, visit the ornate Hall of Honour and marvel at the impres- sive French chandeliers and Italian marble. But it’s after dark that the 19th-century city hall (restored after a fire in the early 1900s to resemble the Hôtel de Ville in Tours, France) is truly a sight. It’s then that dramatic lighting drapes the Hôtel de Ville’s exterior in soft hues, accentuating every nook and cranny of its 05_069318 ch01.qxp1/23/0710:01AMPage14

The Best Full-Day Tours 14

The Best

av. d'Orl av. av. d'Orl av. a

v av.a du Mt-Royal .

d

'

O

r ruer Rache v l

éans é

ans a

n

av. Charlemagne av. av. Charlemagne av. a

s

v

u . .

C

h av. Jeanne - d'Ar - Jeanne av. a

Lafontaine d'Ar - Jeanne av. LafontaineL

a

v

. r

l

d e

J

e e m 4

23e av. 23e 23e av. 23e 2

a a

Mont-RoyalM Mont-Royal a

n 3

g

e MONTRMMONTRÉAL n

n

e

a e ProvancherP Provancher Centre-Ville Centre-VilleC

-

v

d u .

f ' A o r BotaniqueB Botanique o c c Parc P c r

e

n n a

o R o

Parc P M O

Jardin JJardin

n

t t Leon-L Leon- r t

a a

a v

Parc P

a

- c a

boulevard Pie - X X - - Pie Pie boulevard b boulevard

o e t

R

r t u r N

l a

i c e n v

a

r c

d a

n - o r

o 24e av. av. 24e 2 24e

d

4

i e R P e h n

i i r e e q a y T v n - n .

X c - c a o

u e V - R l h e Greenhouses Dupire l y GreenhousesG DupireD i e

É a l

r u l

r

l e

e

A AL

p

Vieux-V Pie-XP Pie-X

25e av. 25e 2

e av. 25e 5

PortP e

i a i L v i . r e n o e e u h AreaA MapM r boulevardb Rosemont GardensG YouthY Gardens Youth GardenG Garden - t AlpineA Alpine x o r o X

o a a a - e

u

l

u

r p

p

u

r

St.S Lawrencea

s

t d

26e av. 26e 2 t av. 26e d

. 6 i e

L l a e v h a n . e

e w e s

r e n Garden Leslie-Hancock GardenG Leslie-HancockL

v e n Botanique n BotaniqueB e

c s

a a (Greenhouses)

e (Greenhouses)(

o

s

G

r

d'Exposition d'Expositiond

r

27e av. 2 27e

Jardin av. 27e JardinJ l

d 7

e

d

i a

t

r v

' .

a

e

ChineseC

e

in Two Days

e Garden GardenG av. Desjardins av. a av. Desjardins av. E a

v

.

D -

e n

s r 2 j h a H Serres SerresS r e x Garden & Garden &G d Japanese JapaneseJ i a n n s d Pavilion PavilionP a

ArboretumA Arboretum 5 i e a p

n

r

a n

i

a

p

n

i

d r r

q h o 28e av. 2 28e

r av. 28e 8

e e n R b v c r a a d v e . o s

u e

o s o

o

i

n

n

e

i

l

u

e

av. de la Salle la de av. a av. de la Salle la de av. r c s

v t

. e

i s

d

e e

e

n o l

a k i

s S e

a

l l

e o

t

s (Olympic Stadium)( (Olympic Stadium)

GardenG FirstF Nations Garden First Nations

n P e 29e av. 2 29e

Stade OlympiqueS av. 29e Stade Olympique

u

O m

& 9 e e n i

a a v s . r m t l s r

o a )

y

d

av.a t

d

ruer Hochelaga n

m

av. Létourneux a av.

av. L av. e (Tree House) Maison del'Arbre (Tree( House) Maison del'ArbreM v . N

v

u

T L

é t e

t tourneux

o n

u .

r

n r

a

e e

p

u Pierre - de Coubertin a

x e

30e av av 30e 3 30e 0 e

a t v . . O . P i i e i s c o GreenG Line ruer Sherbrooke i o

H l e H u n r y n S r e e o s o Shade GardenS Shade Garden

m

r e t

d

c h

u

e a 31e av av 31e 3 31e 1 e n

a v . . p . e

h a s d S

- e d

e i l 3 h

i q '

d ) House Butterfly HouseH Butterfly B

L e

l u A Rose Garden e Rose GardenR a i u

e u n o

m r G o g r

b t e

e u b s

a t Insectarium Montréal a r InsectariumI MontrM C TourT deMontrMontréal ) s (Montréal Tower)(Montr( r e e n

o r M e e o P d r o

o s o G f e u

u k l e o n a y

e n b r c r n t

d t r

e d t BiodB Biodôme de

a

e é

r r

e

i

MontrM Montréal

n é r av. Bennett av. a

av. Bennett av. a t al v Maisonneuve MaisonneuveM

. o

i

B

e i i n n e a al Tower) M l t n t u d o a l m

ô

n o

4 5 3 2 1 T i m me de t 0 n 1/8km 0 s o

r

Parc P

t

o w

1

é

e

av. a av. v

. r

Aird Aird

a A Spectrum deMontréal Fairmount Bagels Stade Olympique Jardin Botanique Biodôme deMontréal i r d n a al é

e d r l a al n r c e ) l e OlympiqueO Olympique u l v y e Parc Parc P m a p P i Charbonneau CharbonneauC r Olympic VillageO i c h l q y a m u

1/8 mile Centre CentreC Pierre- Pierre-P

r

Information Biking Parking Metro Station

e

p b

i e

rue Viau rue rue Viau rue r

u

e e

i V i o a n c u Maurice MauriceM r Richard RichardR

t n r Arena ArenaA V i r e a n c i e r l - u h P e l e a LeL Village Le Village r

a a n

g e

i

r u

c

a

e

rue Viau rue rue Viau rue r

u V GolfG

e d

e V i a ViauV u i o l l l a i f a g u e 05_069318 ch01.qxp 1/23/07 10:01 AM Page 15

15 The Best ow that the big-name sights have been crossed off the list, Nit’s time to stray from the downtown area. The northwest

2 2 2 3 3 2 2 2 2 6 0 1 reaches of the city are home to one of the world’s best and biggest 4 5 3 7 8 9 e e e e e e e e e

a a a a a a a a a v v v v v

v gardens, and to Olympic Park—a financial folly built for the 1976 Sum- Two Days in v v v ...... boulevard Rosemont mer Olympics that nevertheless gifted Montréal with the infrastructure for some medal-worthy attractions. START: Viau Métro Station. Dupire Greenhouses Maison de l'Arbre (Tree House) Parc Leon- Provancher Arboretum

r

u

e

Parc V Leslie-Hancock i a Garden Maisonneuve u Jardin Golf Le Village Botanique Shade Garden Youth Gardens First Nations b o Garden u

l e v Butterfly Olympic Village a

r Japanese d House

Garden &

P Pavilion Biodôme and Stade Olympique were both built for the 1976 Summer Olympics and are i e

- now two of the top attractions in the city. a Montréal

v X Chinese .

Insectarium J e Garden a Alpine n ★★★ = n Garden 1 Biodôme de Mon- free for kids under 5. Discount combi- e r

u -

d e tréal. Few places in the world can nation tickets available for Jardin ' A

Rose Garden Parc V r

c i boast having more than 4,000 crea- Botanique, Insectarium, Stade a Serres Olympique u Mt-Royal tures and 5,000 species of flora in Olympique, and Biodôme. Daily av. du d'Exposition e ok (Greenhouses) ro Pierre- four completely separate ecosystems 9am–5pm (until 6pm in late June, a rb v e Charbonneau . h

S under the same roof. But that’s July–Aug). Closed most Mon Jan–Feb

C e Tour de Montréal Centre h u a r (Montréal Tower) exactly the case at the one-of-a-kind and Sept– Dec. Métro: Viau. r

l e m Biodôme, originally built as the

a

g n velodrome for the 1976 Olympic Penguins are just one of the many species e Maurice of animal that call the Biodôme home. Richard Summer Games. The eco-friendly Rachel Arena rue Stade Olympique attraction is home to four distinct bio- (Olympic Stadium) mes: the familiar Laurentian forest, a a v Biodôme de .

Montréal marine system modeled after the

Viau d ' ine O Green L n St. Lawrence river, a tropical rain- r berti l ou é Pie-X e - de C a v. Pierr forest, and a polar environment. Each n a

a s a

v v a a . .

biome is constructed so that most of v v

a . .

B v A

. e D i

r n the plants and animals (including d e L d n s e é

j e t a

o t l r a many endangered species) found t u d

r i S n n

a s e within are growing, crawling, or run- l l u e x ning in their respective environments. elaga rue Hoch @ 2 hr. 4777 av. Pierre-de-Coubertin (next to Olympic Stadium). y 514/ 868-3000. www.biodome.qc.ca. Admission C$13 adults, C$9.50 sen- iors and students, C$6.50 kids 5–17, 05_069318 ch01.qxp 1/23/07 10:01 AM Page 16

16 and the Insectarium (p. 36, bullet Travel Tip 2), where kids will have a blast Be sure to take advantage of the shrieking and giggling at the creepy, free shuttle bus that stops at Stade crawly displays. Covering the major Olympique, the Biodôme, and the sights here in less than 2 hours is an Jardin Botanique. It’s essential in ambitious undertaking, so take summer, when the mercury can rise advantage of the tram that runs Full-Day Tours Full-Day to blistering temps. Schedules are around the entire garden—it’s well available at all of the participating worth the small fee. The Jardin attractions. Botanique, despite the city’s frigid winters, is open year-round, and

The Best you’ll always discover something ★★ 1 2 Jardin Botanique. It’s blooming. @ 1 ⁄2 hr. 4101 rue Sher- time to stop and smell the flowers. brooke est. y 514/872-1400. www. Just over 75 years old, Montréal’s ville.Montreal.qc.ca/jardin. Admis- sprawling 75-hectare (185-acre) sion C$9.75–C$13 adults, C$7.25– Botanical Garden is home to 22,000 C$9.50 seniors and students, species of plants. Instead of using C$4.75–C$6.50 ages 5–17, free for all that space for random flower kids under 5. Combination tickets arrangements and shrubbery sculp- available for Jardin Botanique, Insec- tures, here you’ll find individual tarium, Stade Olympique, and greenhouses and cultural gardens Biodôme. Daily 9am–5pm (until 6pm (especially notable are the Chinese in summer, until 9pm mid-Sept to Garden—the largest outside of Oct). Closed Mon early Jan to mid- Asia—and the Japanese Garden) May. Métro: Pie-IX.

Montréal’s botanical gardens are among the largest and most beautiful in the world. 05_069318 ch01.qxp 1/23/07 10:01 AM Page 17

17

tickets available for Jardin The Best Botanique, Insectarium, Stade Olympique, and Biodôme. Tour of stadium. Public swim sessions daily

(call for exact schedule). Tower open Two Days in mid-June to early Sept Mon noon– 6pm, Tues–Thurs 10am–9pm, Fri–Sat 10am–11pm; early Sept to mid-Jan and mid-Feb to mid-June daily noon– 6pm. Closed mid-Jan to mid-Feb. Métro: Pie-IX.

The Montréal version of the bagel is made quite differently than its more famous New York rival (smaller, denser and boiled in honeyed water before it’s fired up in the oven). The distinctly textured version turned out by 4 Fairmount bagels is well worth a trek. 74 Fairmount ouest. y 514/272-0667. www.fairmount bagel.com. $. The Olympic Tower offers spectacular views of the city. 5 Spectrum de Montréal. 3 Stade Olympique. Compared A truly special way to top off your to modern stadiums, The “Big O” is day is to unwind at a show in down- undeniably grotesque. Built for the town’s Spectrum de Montréal, a 1976 Olympics, it became the home major blip on the city’s cultural of Major League Baseball’s expan- radar. This celebrated venue, sion Montréal Expos, until they housed in a converted movie theater, packed up and moved to Washing- hosts everything from International ton, D.C., in 2005. The stadium is Jazz Festival performances and now home to exhibitions, trade local music groups to some of the shows, and the occasional concert. biggest names in rock ’n’ roll. Peo- An observation deck sits atop the ple who’ve played here in the past slanted Olympic Tower (you ride a include Miles Davis, Pavement, The funicular to the top) on the sta- Fugees, Massive Attack, and Peter dium’s roof and offers some of the Gabriel. And if you show up when best panoramas of the city. Visitors the city’s famous film festival is in looking to cool off can dive off the full swing, you’ll find the section of platforms in the complex’s natato- Rue St. Catherine around the Spec- rium or swim in its six pools. @ 45 trum closed off to create a free min. 4141 av. Pierre-de-Coubertin open-air theater. For more details (bd. Pie IX). y 514/252-4737. www. on the theater, see p 118. @ 2 hr. rio.gouv.qc.ca. Admission C$13 318 rue Ste-Catherine. y 514/861- adults, C$10 seniors and students, 5851. www.spectrumdeMontreal.ca/ and C$7 kids. Discount combination spectrum. Métro: Place des Arts. 05_069318 ch01.qxp1/23/0710:01AMPage18

The Best Full-Day Tours 18

c The Best h JardinJardin c . h BotaniqueBotanique e e 0 1/4 mile C c m ô PlateauPlateau n 1 t e in e Mont-RoyalMont-Royal r - w d bd.bd. S Stt - JJosephoseph a OratoireOratoire 0 1/4 km S L e t . e MONTRMMONTRÉALONTRÉAALL t St-JosephSt-Joseph llaa St.S Lawrence - ParcParc C C LaurierLaurier ô a LafontaineLafontaine t t e h av.av. V Villeneilleneuveuve - e ParcParc d CimetièreCimetiCimetièrere voie r e C i Mont-RoyalMont-Royal Vieux-Vieux- s a ne - Notre-Dame-des-NeigesNotre-Dame-des-Neiges m PortPort N ill MILEMILE ENDEND MapMap e ie AreaArea i n g (Our(Our L aLadydy of tofhe the Sno wSnowss

e - WestmountWestmount s av.av du Mont - Ro Cemetery)Cemetery) CimetiCCimetièreimetièrere MMont-Royal oMont-Royalnt-Royal H . du Mont - Royalyal o c n in Three Days

i u r

a a (Mont-Royal(Mont-Royal Ce mCemetery)etery) t d

b P e n

r

e ParcParc Mont-RoyalMont-Royal U r

u

- u

c hem d ruerue MMariearie - Anne

t - in a Anne SummitSummit

s L S

i PavillonPavillon d udu R e . m -

n e v m t e e LacLac a auxux C aCastorsstors av. a du Par b 4 S T r u D a

h ruer St - Urbain n e c . e Olmstea - h. d B c d ruerue RRachelachel o SirSir GGeorge-eorge- t u bd.b St - Laurent l S e v LacLac aauxux CCastorsastors MaisonMaison ÉÉtiennettienneienne C Cartierartier ar 2 d (Beaver(Beaver Lake)Lake) MonumentMonument e

SmithSmith u

c SteelSteel C Crossross ruer St - Denis h

e av.av. D Duluthuluth m ParcParc d udu M oMontnt - Ro -y aRoyall 3

i oulevard n WESTMOUNTWESTMOUNT The B 5 GrandGrand PLATEAUPLATEAU MONT-ROYALMONT-ROYAL av. Cedar M MolsonMolson c ChaletChalet D s o StadiumStadium i Metro Station u n

g e a l av.av. d deses P Pinsins D av. Ceda r

-

n

i

ch t . a

S MONT-ROYALMONT-ROYAL S

b 1 t av.av. d deses PinsP ins 7 - S r Oratoire St-Joseph ulp y ic t

e i U

ruerue PPrincerin - Ar t l ce s - A rthurthur -

r 2 n SherbrookeSherbrooke e t

Parc du Mont-Royal e r e e e S t c

r a av.av. v e Docteur - P r Do P i c w te u u GrandGrand S SSéminaireéminaireminaire u a 3 t r - n P ruer St - Denis e enfielden a f Café Fruit en Folie ie P ld A U L u

McGillMcGill dede MMontréalMontrontréalal ruer St - Urbain -

e k . u o 4 t rookeo v b e r Statue of Sir e d e UniversityUniversity S h a S u PollackPollack

QUARTIERQUARTIER u . e MuséeMusMusée ddes deses ruer University u ruer Peel ruer Sherbr . DawsonDawson v George-Étienne Cartier Beaux-ArtsBeauxBeaux A Artsrts DUDU MUSÉEMUSMUSÉE ConcertConcert av. adu Parc d LATINLATIN CollegeCollege 6 bd.b St - Laurent 5 Boulevard St-Laurent AtwaterAtwater ruerue S Sherbrookeherbrooke HallHall QUARTERQUARTER Place-Place- UQAMUQAM 6 Guy-ConcordiaGuy-Concordia McCordMcCord M Museumuseum Just for Laughs des-Artsdes-Arts St-LaurentSt-Laurent Berri-Berri- PepsiPepsi F Forumorum PeelPeel McGillMcGill 7 Buona Notte bd.bd. d dee UQAMUQAM (Old(Old M MontréalMontrontréaall FForum)o rForum)um) CENTRE-VILLECENTRE-VILLE MaisonneuveMaisonneuve 05_069318 ch01.qxp 1/23/07 10:01 AM Page 19

19 The Best ith two days of heavy sightseeing done, you deserve to Wtake it easy and enjoy the more relaxing side of Montréal.

L People-watching and soaking up the outdoor spirit of the city are as R A E nThree Days in Y N rewarding experiences as visiting the city’s museums and cultural insti- T I r

O

R

T e

l

i

s i R

n

e

D

-

t

S

e

u

a r

r A

- A s i n e D

tutions. On this third day of exploration, take advantage of the opportu- -

t S

e u e r y u T L U k - o a

e

i

N M o e L Q n R

r nity to see how the city got its name—and its reputation as the most - k

n r o A

O t l o r

A e

e s Q h o n

-

b t r

h B M

n vibrant metropolis in Canada. START: Côtes-des-Neiges Métro station. o r

i U

u

e c b

l i a P r

r e

u M e U a R

h

t D h

s

M

A S n . S

e e

v

e E

u

d

a

e

r r

T

u

. e u

r

l

v

u @ t

n A 1 hr. 3800 Chemin Queen Mary

e

r

u

a

L a

-

t S

a

. d

b a r

y L L t n e r u a L

-

t S

. d b -

o t P y R (north side of Mont-Royal). 514/

e

D

S

-

v

t

n

i

a

b

r

U u -

t S

e

u

N r

n

e n i a b r U

-

t S

733 8211. www.saint-joseph.org. e u - o r

h E r

n

p e

e

M i l

e l t E

i

s M r

- Admission and tours are free, but

u t L V

o

a e A I d

n J

C g

. e

Q .

- r

v

v

e donations are requested. Crypt open

M

o

a m U

t

a

n

c e r a u P

S u d

. v

a n

r

n G

e

u

daily 6am–10:30pm; museum daily i o

c r r a . P s

u d

h . i t v a t - t d S É M

r r

b e

A e 10am–5pm. Tours 10am and 2pm

c A

-

v

- a

u

e l s

c e daily June–Aug, Sat–Sun only, Sept– e

e P

n n n

i i t d

r

r k n l e r l

P l h c

o

t e i

a l Oct. Métro: Côtes-des-Neiges.

C n m

a s

- c

i a l

e

e G

t o l u

S n a

i

- u H

s c

o

e r l

t o d

e s M y t i s P

ô r d e v i o n U C

u

a e s u C Ho r M ★★ . - t 2 h o Parc du Mont-Royal. n M r c llie S i C

y m l t Renowned landscape architect Fred- e l a i l C e s i t m

r e

e S u

G erick Law Olmsted (1822–1903), i d e

e

o c

v v s Religious pilgrims flock to the Oratoire i . u

M after designing New York’s Central d n l

M

) b St-Joseph in search of miraculous healing.

l

a

U

l

y e e

P

d a e r u y r Park, left his mark on Montréal by r y e o t o o

s e C R

n d R d

i

- creating the Parc du Mont-Royal l

a c t m -

P R e l ★ e

i n e

t M 1 ÉE Oratoire St-Joseph. This f E e e E t s o C

s n I k

(Royal Mountain Park) in 1876. More S e L l n

m e e o

M l T P L a

P U d enormous copper-domed structure o o

I O

y e r R

-

r hill than mountain, Mont-Royal, the

o

. b

r V

M è . M r -

v A R

i

u h t - is one of the most recognizable in t

a e

d t c e E e U e 232m (761-ft.) peak for which the h l t U n n u

c S R a a o m Q i D r d Montréal, although you’ll need to o h

T

C M

G

city is named, provides Montréalers C D (

e N

c s s u trek to the northern side of Mont- r E . t

r e v r with a slew of facilities for recre- a C a d

A

P Royal to see it. The basilica, com- e L e x

c é ational activities. Hikers can trek u s

n A a

a u pleted in 1967, honors the patron

r Y e

b e M B a r O i i l n m h

e t a saint of Canada, St. Joseph. On the a o d i R The view from the top of Mont-Royal is - n r s m é i i r r e m T o t R a a S ) m premises is a museum detailing the

c one of the best in the city. n

d s N s é M m

e o n e S w

u C O g n o M i

r life of Brother André, a lay brother in o i d

e C

. o n e n

m - M

v F N S e a d

)

y -

a l r the Holy Cross order and legendary h e s y e u s a r c G r e h r è é t e m G i d

r o t - u t f u t t healer, who first built a shrine to St. e e r e d s o n

r o s a m o m m n y ) r l e F i e C e a

a c Joseph on this site in 1904. Many still d o

e i o i t

C g

M l

C t r

k u l x D a p s a

i l

- o s L e

d

a

u

D p

u t l v e

a c a L

r

a visit Brother André’s burial site on w r w e S t a A . O M v C t a t r u

- P ( P c o e x t O n A a emi

v h (

N c S u the basilica grounds in the hopes of L a n

. e a

e h o g

c c d s B

e a miracle healing. Others admire the r ( a l

l a w L

r v o a

a e

C l D gargantuan dome atop the Italian

d u

e o

C

B Renaissance building, listen to the

s . Neige v e s - a 56-bell carillon (originally cast for the e h - d T te Eiffel Tower), or climb the 100 steps Cô la e (some religious pilgrims do it on their t

d i n i c m em r knees!) leading to the highest point a ch m P u S T in the city to pray at the shrine. You

d N h r

U can explore on your own, or you

e a p

r v e i e

l O s o u t o o can take a 90-minute guided tour J a M - B r t T O S e (in one of several languages) daily h S T E in summer and on weekends in fall. W 05_069318 ch01.qxp 1/31/07 2:55 PM Page 20

20 through the miles of paths that snake through the park, sunbathers satisfy your fiber needs for a week. It also serves American standards for and Frisbee tossers can hang out y near man-made Beaver Lake in lunch. 3817 rue St-Denis. 514/ - summer, visitors in winter can opt 840 9011. $$. for skiing or tobogganing on the mountain’s slope, and shutterbugs 4 Statue of Sir George– Full-Day Tours Full-Day can snap panoramic photos from Étienne Cartier. Just north of the the Chalet du Mont-Royal’s terrace park’s gazebo, set on a large swath (at the crest of the hill) year-round. of grass on the eastern flank of the Before tackling Mont-Royal on your park, is the statue of Sir George- The Best own, head to the park’s information Étienne Cartier (1814–1873), a lead- center, Maison Smith, 1260 ing French-Canadian statesman chemin Remembrance, for special- known as the Father of Confedera- ized maps and/or books. For full tion. The best times to relax here details on the park’s offerings, see are Sundays in the spring and p 49. @ 2 hr. Entrance on av. des summer when the statue sits in the - Pins and rue Peel. y 514/843 8240. center of an enormous percussion www.lemontroyal.com. Park grounds jam. During the event, dubbed open 24 hr.; information center Mon– “Tam Tams” by students and locals, Fri 9am–5pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. the area around the statue fills Métro: Peel for the south side, Côtes- with hundreds of sunbathers, des-Neiges for the north. hackey-sackers, jewelry vendors, LARPers (live-action role-playing), A relaxed walk in the Parc du Mont- hippies and, most notably, bongo Royal can quickly turn into a tiring drummers. Mr. Cartier passively one if you’re running looks on as one main “conduc- on empty. Refuel at the tor” leads a horde of pounding 3 Café Fruit en participants. If you have a Folie, a popular set of bongos, congas, an breakfast nook in empty plastic tub, or any- the Plateau. Traditional thing that makes a loud recipes are given a banging sound, you’re unique, fruity twist more than qualified to here, with amazing join in the cacophony. results. Each breakfast @ 1 hr. Av. du Parc plate comes with (near av. Duluth). enough fruit to

Statue of Sir George-Étienne Cartier. 05_069318 ch01.qxp 1/23/07 10:01 AM Page 21

21 The Best line the bustling street are immensely popular with the city’s ubiquitous college undergrads. Tip: For one weekend in the spring, a long stretch of St-Laurent north of Rue Sher- Three Days in brooke is closed off for what locals call “Main Madness,” a massive street fair during which store owners and bartenders move their racks and tables out onto the asphalt. Bd. St- Laurent, north of Rue Sherbrooke. 1 @ 1 ⁄2 hr. Métro: St-Laurent.

The spectacular International Fireworks Musicians play at Montréal’s world-famous Competition is held each summer in International Jazz Festival. Montréal.

5 ★★★ Boulevard St-Laurent. Also known as “The Main,” St-Laurent continuously hums with off-beat bou- tiques and trendy restaurants packing the sidewalks with shoppers, stu- dents, and sightseers. Spend some time strolling, snacking, and people- watching your way up the boulevard. It becomes a 20-something’s play- ground when the sun goes down— the dive bars and dance clubs that

City of Festivals

Few cities in North America can rival Montréal when it comes to celebrations lasting more than a couple of days. Throughout the year, the city is home to some of the biggest and most heralded festivals in the world. Attending one of them can make for a very memorable vacation. A small year-round sampling includes Mutek (electronica), Francofolie (French-language music), Beer Tasting Festival, International Fireworks Competition, Montréal Bike Fest, and Image & Nation (gay/lesbian film). The summer months are when the city hits full festival stride—the most renowned occur- ring within just weeks of each other. Most notably, there’s the Inter- national Jazz Festival (June–July), Juste Pour Rire Comedy Festival (July), and World Film Festival (late Aug–early Sept). Booking a hotel room during one of these major events can be impossibly difficult, so make sure you try months in advance or you’ll have to settle for some roadside motel in Vermont. For dates and more information on all of these shindigs, see “Festivals & Spe- cial Events,” on p 144. 05_069318 ch01.qxp 1/23/07 10:01 AM Page 22

22

6 Just for Laughs. Boulevard St-Laurent, just below Rue Sher- brooke, becomes chuckle-central in the balmy month of July. The Juste Pour Rire Comedy Festival’s main performance area also doubles as a venerable comedy museum. Gilbert Full-Day Tours Full-Day Rozon founded this homage to com- edy’s legends in 1993, just as the festival was garnering great acclaim and popularity. Various exhibitions

The Best are held here throughout the year, with displays celebrating cartoon- ists, comedians, and magic and comedy histories. Call for ticket reservations ahead of time; the museum usually only allows groups into the permanent International Humour Hall of Fame Exhibition, but you may be able to gain admission if The Just Pour Rire Comedy Festival is held you call and convince them other- in several venues across the city, including the Just For Laughs comedy club. wise (and you should). In any event, you can always catch a show or con- and rue Milton, you’ll trip over the cert in one of the spaces within the expensive, pimped-out cars parked building. @ 1 hr. 2111 bd. St-Laurent. outside only to find more bodywork y 514/845-4000. Tickets y 514/ on the eerily beautiful people inside. 845-5105. http://musee.hahaha.com. If you can avert your eyes, a delicious Admission C$9 adults, C$5 kids ages meal here will momentarily distract 4 to 11. Métro: St-Laurent. you from the celebrities and models 7 Buona Notte. Finish off your mingling and dining on penne alla day in Buona Notte, Montréal’s vodka. 3518 bd. St-Laurent. y 514/ glitziest restaurant. As you get to 848-0644. Métro: St-Laurent. See the corner of Boulevard St-Laurent p 91 for details on the restaurant.

The Buona Notte restaurant is where Montréal’s beautiful people congregate for dinner and cocktails.