NOVEMBER, 1915. PRICE, 25 CENTS A COPY $2.00 A YEAR he IWACIric •

HIVILTN CLOSED DU 620 At5 HONC -_.U, Vol... X. No. 5. HA ,, II. witwasempri io moyustmxsetwoAmmur tmlimpuli r lm$,I,P4s,IAI rmtvws,,ti 1 stItmlimmArvturn • 9 • 141 ■■ f. - Vi Pan-PacificWork • Japan s v iewew of • 4 • i • Japanese Consul-General H. Arita Before the American Sons of • the Revolution, and the Pan-Pacific Workers at the • • University Club in Honolulu. • • • As the local representative of the country, to which Ambas- • sador Guthrie, our guest of honor, is accredited, I take special • pleasure in welcoming hi-- 1--- in Hawaii, on his way 1,-• japdn. 4 • He is returning to our country after a vacation of a few months in -4 • the States. As all ladies and gentlemen present here tonight will ; • I • know, the two years, which Ambassador Guthrie passed in our • country, was the most important period in the history of the two I • countries—Japan and America. Thanks to his earnest and sincere • efforts as well as able activities, the traditional friendship from the • ! • time of Commodore Perry has been brought to a closer and more • solid footing than ever before, despite several jingoistic discussions • on both sides. I appreciate his kind and able efforts which brought I • the two countries to a better understanding. In this time of delicate T! • diplomacy caused by the great European War, I sincerely rejoice i. • that this able diplomat is returning to his duties in Tokyo, not only ! for the benefit of the two countries, but for the peace and develop- •. ment of the World. It may not be out of place to take advantage of this occasion to refer to the significant and remarkable feature in Hawaii today —that is a great movement to put all nationalities in the Territory together for the good of the Pacific as well as Hawaii. This move- ment was born in Hawaii several years ago and is being carried ,•-• on here very enthusiastically by the Pan-Pacific Club, which is the a local expression of the Hands-Around-the-Pacific Movement. Ha- 11 waii has a diversified population and is called one of the most 1 ii cosmopolitan countries in the world, but as it is the case with other ;- cosmopolitan cities or places, there lies an invisible as well as in- tangible wall which unfortunately separates each community— . American, Chinese, Portuguese, Japanese and so on have their own 4 life, distinct and apart, although there are occasions in business, when they meet. It is, therefore, highly appreciated that the Pan- 2 Pacific Club or workers for similar movements bring them together –41 to make them thoroughly understand one another. As a matter of . fact, we have met several new friends of different races since the 1= inauguration of the Pan-Pacific Club, which will result, I am sure, in the better understanding of one another. It is an unfortunate obstacle for the better understanding, however, that most alien S • (Continued on inside back cover.) I° • •

1 • rifWV•a ■ rristidregriN1a MYVVEMANI/VNIr?'4-i.•MI`,1t/''N' • •• *OWrW/W • Wad-4a * itristiAlt4c1 iii fiA.A.StAILMIA•AMMIATI IC.NPUHT:Fr • • DVIIVHLTrIGTIVITCYOUHUID.inivtivliv • • • ..11r filib-Parifir filagazittr '. • CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD • HOWARD M. BALLOU, Associate Editor. VOLUME X. JOSEPH B. STICKNEY, Assistant Editor. NUMBER 5.. ) • ,!. CONTENTS FOR NOVEMBER, 1915.

Our Art Gallery. • Stevenson's Samoa - - - - - - 417 • By Charmian Kittredge London ii The Culture of Pearls in Japan - - - - - 423 • By T. Myako • A Railroad in Fairyland - - - - - - - 427 • By De vis-Norton • • An Hour in Old Shanghai - - - - - - 433 • By W. H. Heinrichs • From Bluff to Sydney - - - - - - - 437 . • From the Editor's Diary. • • • Motorcycling on Maui - - - - - - - 441 By Joseph B. Stickney . • • My Palmyra - - - - - - - - - 447 4 • By Judge Henry E. Cooper t. • • A Journey to Te Wairoa - - - .. - - 453 By R. E. Selby g • g An Hawaiian Shark Hunt - - - - - - 459 4 g By R. E. Lambert t • ■ Inustriaeveopmentd l D l of the Philippines - - 463 '1>.- • By the Hon. Juan Sumulong ii- An Engineer on the West Coast of Colombia - - 467 4 • By Frank R. Wadleigh • The Japanese in Hawaii - - - - - - - 471 4. By S. Sheba 1.■ • The Lorraine's S 0 S - - - - - - - 475 4 • By Blaine McLean • • Java's Great Boro-boedoer - - - - - - 485 • • By A. Cabaton • t I' • Australia for the World Traveller - - - - - 489 5 • By Atlee Hunt •

g What the Chinese Have Done for Hawaii - - 493 By Chung K. Ai. • a, ENCYCLOPEDIA OF HAWAII AND THE PACIFIC. l• • • g) allr J' tb-ilarifir Magazittr +.•k, Published by ALEXANDER HUME FORD, Honolulu. T. H. IC • Printed by the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Ltd. Yearly subscriptions in the United States and possessions, $2.00 in advance. ;I•1 Canada and Mexico, $2.50. For all foreign countries, $3.00. Single copies, 25c. 0, Entered as second-claw matter at the Honolulu Postoffice. 1 4 ig e .1 Permission is given to republish articles from the Mid-Pacific Magazine when credit is given .veci-t-iii • • • • inuannununucalconvninvinuni teetreciracriiiitirarrititieki In the highways and byways of Japan, the dainty little maiden of olden days is as attractive and picturesque as she ever was. The women of Japan keep alive the beauty of the land. •:*

It was from the Royal Deer Park of Japan that the Island of Molokai was stocked to become a hunter's Paradise, but in Japan no one shoots or eats the deer; there they are the pets and friends of the children. From Hawaii, the most northern of cocoanut islands, to far-off Southern Tahiti, the lagoon and the waving, nodding palm are the characteristic features of the coast scenery. Life is ideal in the "Sunset Isles of the Mid-Pacific", where the mag- nificent climate, and the hundreds of quiet bays in settings of fairy-like beauty, make bathing one of the most delight- ful of all outdoor pastimes. The great natural beauty of the Koolau Ditch Trail, on the Island of Maui, one of the Hawaiian group, is unsurpassed throughout the world. Great gorges, canyons, and leaping waterfalls are on every hand, and the rich tropical foliage has a charm of its own. Above is shown the beginning of the trail. •to

In the Andes of South America there are numerous streams to be crossed, and the natives are more adept in making bridges of vines, than the foreign engineers are in making swinging bridges of steel and wire. The life of the rising generation in Hawaii is indeed happy. Good schools, plenty of play and a summer which lasts the whole year round, are helpful factors in making manly boys and good citizens. The Southerland Falls of New Zealand were discovered but a few years ago, yet they are the highest falls in the world, and are but a few miles distant from the cold lakes and West Coast Sounds of New Zealand. In the Buffalo Range of Mountains in the State of Victoria, Australia, are peaks more impressive than those of its sister range, the Blue Mountains of South Wales. Here, too, the thrill- seeker, from high mountain peaks may gaze out over rich agricultural Regions. Australia is proud of her "Darling River", famous for the romance of its exploration, and now to be diverted into a wonderful system that will make countless billions of blades of grass grow where none grew before on what was once the Australian Desert. •:*

The peasant population of Japan is not only the most picturesque, but it is the most industrious, and as rice is the staple crop, most of the peasants are engaged in its raising, and the pounding of the rice is done at home. Li fe has changed little in Samoa since the days of Robert Louis Stevenson. There are still thirty thousand natives, who dress in the simple, single lava lava, and live in roomy grass houses. Sometimes it rains in Sydney, and then the old picturesque buildings that have been deserted for commercial purposes, loom up as pic- turesque as any of the ancient cathedrals of Europe, and modern Sydney takes on a sleepy expression. On the Island of Kauai, in the Hawaiian Group, there are valleys, such as Hanalei that are as beautiful and atttractive as the world- renowned Vale of Cashmere in India, and truth to tell there is little difference in the scenery of these two widely separated garden spots. 3 o ee

aeew

ati

O ,• —

" O

4 143

Ot

Na

O „

O

*-zt h CS

e84 •rl O ■-•4

O filib-Parifir ftlagazittr CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD

Vol– X. NOVEMBER, 1915. No. 5.

Stevenson in Samoa.

• LOG OF THE SNARK (continued). Stevenson's Samoa

By CHARMIAN KITTREDGE LONDON.* •

Apia, Samoa, Saturday, May 9, 1908. this sunny land—Jack with Rosa Moors TEVENSON'S Vailima, literally (the daughter of Stevenson's old friend "Waters Five," named from the H. J. Moors) in a high black jaunting cart S streams that once met on the place, drawn by a stout black roadster, native lies about three miles of steady slope from groom with a parasol over their heads. I Apia. We started in the early afternoon rode a brown mare lent by Mr. Moors. —although it seems "always afternoon" in We went happily along the lovely climb- 2-M.P. *Copyright by the Author. 417 418 THE MID- PACIFIC ing road, shaded by tropic trees, bamboo, of His Highness Tusitala, and his palm, fau, hibiscus and a dozen more, with loving care when we were imprisoned little to remind us of our tender quest until and in sore distrss, we have made for we turned into the Road of Loving Hearts, him an enduring gift, this road which the Ala Loto Alofo of the Samoans, that we have dug to last foreever. It shall leads from the main highway to the gates never be muddy, it shall endure, this of Vailima. This road was made by the road that we have dug." hands of natives of lofty caste, led and We are not the first world-adventurers, helped by the six liberated chiefs of Ma- Jack and I, in a small boat, to make the taaf a's following, who had been befriended pilgrimage to Vailima. Our friend Cap- by Stevenson during political difficulties tain Slocum touched at Apia in the Spray, with the foreign powers that ended in the during the residence of the widow, who imprisonment of these chiefs. Stevenson's presented the plucky old mariner with a own words will best make clear the value handsome set of Sailing Directions of the of this gift of labor, and also give a glimpse Mediterranean from her husband's library. of his sane sympathy with the Samoan Alas, there are now no books nor other nature: personal possessions of the author's left "Now whether or not this impulse will in the great house, which has been added last them through the road does not matter to in order to meet the needs of the German to me one hair. It is the fact that they Governor who owns it. have attempted it, that they have volun- The caretaker was away, and we could teered, and are now trying to execute, a not even go into the building, but Rosa thing that was never before heard of in Moors took us where we could peep into Samoa. Think of it! It is road-making, the great hall. Stevenson had a terrible the most fruitful cause, after taxes, of all time planning that house. He would bring rebellion in Samoa, a thing to which they his projected sketches and elevations to Mr. could not be wiled with money, nor driven Moors for his certain disapproval, and that by punishment. It does give me a sense critic regularly convinced his friend that of having done something in Samoa after the schemes were unpractical and unsuited all." to the tropics and his needs. Finally, the This astounding memorial to the Man homeless Scotsman returned from a voyage Who Understood, should be marked by to Sydney, enthusiastic over the perfected some abiding symbol, and England should drawings of an Australian architect who look to it. For this Road of Loving had caught the fine sense of his client's Hearts, first called by its builders the manorial dream. Mr. Moors gasped when Road of Gratitude, is a monument far the sheets were spread out before him. more significant than any tomb of massive The dimensions were for a castle, or a proportions. Now, even the board, made great mansion at the least. Poor Robert and lettered by the chiefs, that once pointed Louis wilted under the gentle sarcasm of the way to Vailima, is gone. Stevenson— Moors, and came down tremendously on their Story Teller, Tusitala—touched by all the measurements except those of the the tribute, had already prepared a graving main hall, which he would reduce but lit- to immortalize his appreciation of what his tle. It was his pet hobby, that hall, and brown brothers had done; but the brown provided with a great fireplace, to feed a brothers had other plans, and he was proportionately vast chimney. "What on obliged to let them inscribe the sign-post earth do you want that for?" demanded with their own words, which translated, Moors. "You'll never be able to use it read : in this climate, and it will cost you a for- "Remembering the great kindness tune to haul the bricks and stones and mor- THE MID-PACIFIC 419

tar up that hill, and to build it after you we thought of how the place must have get them there." appeared to its old owner when he began Stevenson was crestfallen but obstinate. to grapple with the wild for a space that He could see the practical absurdity of the would not choke his dwelling. But he en- fireplace in the tropics, but what was a joyed his combat with the growing earth. living hall without a fireplace? Besides, He was "aye a magerful man," was Ste- that was the way they did it in Scotland, venson, fighting for health in life, since and it made the room look like home. No he must live, striving to enjoy that life one could argue against this, so the fire- while it was imposed upon him, gaining place went in, and one cannot but be glad upon his work against bitterest odds. His he realized his dear desire. He paid for strife with nature was unique—he realized it, and it was one of the few desires he this when he said, in connection with his did realize, for all his arduous pursuit of eternal weeding and other garden work: happiness. That Heart of Gold must have "I wonder if any one ever had the same been heavy in his bosom, for he once wrote attitude to nature as I hold? This busi- what is a sad admission for his lovers to ness fascinates me like a tune or a passion, read : "I was only happy once . . . it yet all the while I thrill with a strong dis- came to an end from a variety of reasons taste . . . a superstitious horror of the —decline of health, change of place, in- void and powers about me, the horror of creas of money, age with his stealing steps; my own devastation and continual murders. since then, as before then, I know not what The life of the plants comes through my it means. But I know pleasure still, pleas- finger-tips, their struggles go to my heart ure with a thousand faces and none perfect, like supplications; I feel myself blood bol- a thousand tongues all broken, a thousand tered—then I look back on my cleared hands and all of them with scratching nails. grass, and count myself an ally in a fair High among these I place this delight of quarrel, and make stout my heart." weeding out here, alone by the garrulous One child of nature there was, however, water, under the silence of the high wood, that elicited from him no qualms of sym- broken by incongruous sounds of birds." pathy. This was the Sensitive plant, From the upper front veranda we whose pretty acacia-like foliage and lilac- pressed our faces against the window panes pink pompons are nearly as great a pest of Tusitala's bedroom, over the inner door in Samoa as is the lantana in Hawaii. of which jarred the portrait of the Kaiser. It overspreads rock and roadside, height Then we gazed through the glass into the and hollow, and one can understand how "Temple of Peace," the inner sanctuary Stevenson regarded his continuous encoun- where the master wove his spells. How ter with the insidious creeper: "A fool will our own shelves of him look to us brought it to this island in a pot, and when we see them again? Straightway used to lecture and sentimentalize over the into the back of our eyes will come the tender thing. The tender thing has now vision of a small dismantled room over- taken charge of this island, and men fight looking the slope of Veea Mountain and it, with torn hands, for bread and life." the shining sea sparkling through his gar- Almost one expects to see his half-sad, den trees. half-whimsical face at an upper window, As we looked around over the present or his slender back bent over the weeding formal garden with its disk of lawn bor- of the grass. Then, the utter silence of dered in brilliant box, and its gay-foliaged all things calls one to reality with a pain crotons and dracenas, there came to us the at the heart—"Alas! for Tusitala; he sleeps breath of the perfumed things of the land, in the forest." papaia, frangipani, waxen gardenia, and We took no guide farther than the be- even the scent of orange blossom. And ginning of the trail that rises on the other 420 THE MID-PACIFIC side of one of the Five Aivers. Rosa into it all, too. It was found after the Moors wanted to send her native groom funeral that the place of burial was out- with us, as she did not care to make the side the confines of Vailima ; whereupon climb ; but we preferred to go alone. the owner, Mr. Trude, promptly made Through the dense bush and forest of over the piece of property as a gift to the the mountain a broad swath has been cut family. straight up the uncompromising steep, the If ever you go to Stevenson's tomb, do clearing laced back and forth with a tiny not believe the soft-eyed native who tells pathway beset by rock and root and cling- you that two young palms mark the half ing creeper. We set our faces to the hid- of the climb. It seemed ages before we den goal and plunged up through the cool, reached those trees, and we breathed our- still gloom, treading blossoming things that selves for a fresh start on a tug as long resembled violet plants bearing snowdrops, as that we had already come, and shed all and now and then stepping into a drift spare clothing. But it was not half of of pink petals blown from trees. As we the half, and all at once, at a sharp turn clawed into the stiff ascent we began to around a large boulder, I was suddenly be gently depressed with the spirit of our confronted with the gray-gabled sarcopha- surroundings. At intervals a dove mourned gus resting upon its broader foundation, in the forest, and our thoughts turned to and cried out, startled. Then we went the stories we had heard of Tusitala's death forward hand in hand, and tears were in —how he was stricken suddenly the very our eyes to think of that little great man day he had been talking of death and of lying under the weight of woeful stone. his desire to be buried on the mount, in A fresh double scarlet hibiscus was upon the spot where the frail frame of him now the foundation slab, where it must lately lies. "Why, the man died of too much have been paid by some furtive living health," Mr. Moors declared to us; "he mourner, after all the long years. The hadn't been better for years, but his veins querulous pipe of a mellow-throated bird could not carry the good blood he had in came from the thicket close by, as if re- him. Something went wrong, and a blood senting our disturbing the sacred solitude, vessel burst in his brain." And when the and the rays of the low sun slanted through natives heard what had happened, and it the rustling fau trees and across the gray was verified to them, waiting without, that tomb. On the western face of the gabled Tusitala, their Story Teller, indeed lay concrete are cast in Samoan the words -of low in death, they set up a universal wail- Ruth to Naomi, with a Scotch thistle and ing that must sorely have tried the endur- a hibiscus to right and left : ance of the mourners within. • "Wheither thou goest I will go, and "How did they do it ?''I panted as we where thou lodgest I will lodge; thy struggled upward. "How did they ever people shall be my people and thy God carry him up this place? And what way my God; where thou diest I will die, was there to go ? This swath has been cut and there will I be buried." since." On the opposite side we read the verse, Oh, the bereaved Samoans saw to it all, with its great simplicity, that Stevenson Jack told me. Five hundred of them at- wrote for his own grave: tacked the woods by night, when they heard "Under the wide and starry sky the wish of their Beloved to be laid upon Dig the grave and let me lie. Veea, and in the morning the path was ready and the pitiful spot cleared. And Glad did I live and gladly die they bore Tusitala on their own chieftain And I lay me down with a will shoulders, with lines carried up the moun- This be the verse you grave for me: tain as well to help. One white man came Here he lies where he longed to be; THE MID-PACIFIC 421

Home is the sailor from the sea, or, when he must rest, sleeping as he And the hunter home from the hill." wished to sleep, with patient folded hands, upon the twilight mountain. We turned on the brink of the descent A few days before his passing, the Story for a last look at the quiet stone drifted Teller received this poem from Edmund over by withered leaves, and then dropped Gosse: down the mountain, full of peaceful mel- ancholy. "Here he lies where all must "Now the skies are pure above you, come, after days grown wearisome," came Tusitala; to my lips; and Jack said in a subdued Feathered trees bow down before you, voice: "I wouldn't have gone out of my Perfumed winds from shining waters way to visit the grave of any other man Stir the sanguine-hued hibiscus, in the world." It is not going out of That your kingdom's duskeyed daugh- one's way in Paris to see Napoleon's tomb, ters nor to find oneself leaning against Welling- Weave about their shining tresses. ton's in St. Paul's. "But this, but this was Dew-fed guavas drop their viscous you," Tusitala. Honey at the sun's caresses, "Glad did I live and gladly die," wove Where eternal summer blesses into our spirits as we let ourselves down Your ethereal musky highlands. the trail, and when we recrossed the river "You are circled, as by magic, on its narrow board, we were glad enough over our own aliveness to yearn toward a In a surfy palm-built bubble, Tusitala. deep pool under a spreading bamboo tree. Fate hath chosen, but the choice is Half delectable, half tragic, But Rosa was calling from the sunset gar- den, and we hastened to where, on the For we hear you speak like Moses green wheel of lawn, she sat amidst bas- And we greet you back enchanted, But reply 's no sooner granted kets of peeled oranges, mangoes, and lov- ing-cups of cocoanuts ready opened. Than the rifted cloud-land closes." It is all over. We have seen Vailima's It would seem that all the gifts of cir- many porches, where Robert Louis broke cumstance surrounding his death were as breadfruit with his loved brown brothers poetic as he tried to make his life. in days gone by, such a little while in our "Glad did I live—" thought. One thinks of Vailima as with "I have lived, and loved, and closed the his living presence directing the life there; door."

Stevenson's Tomb. 422 THE MID-PACIFIC Women Diving for Pearls.

The Culture of Pearls in Japan

By T. MYAKO.

MONG the many wonders of the though in 1890 he exhibited some living Orient, there is none more in- pearl-bearing oysters in the aquarium at A teresting that Culture Pearls. the Third National Industrial Exposition. These gems of the sea should not be con- It was here that Dr. Mitsukuri, professor founded with the so-called artificial pearl, of zoology in the Tokyo Imperial Univer- for they are true pearls in every sense of sity, suggested the possibility of producing the word. The difference is this: The pearls by introducting into the shell of the pearl-bearing oyster is made to produce by living oyster an artificial stimulus. The a scientific process. idea was at once accepted. Other men less It had been the ambition of scientists of determined would have given up the task the world for many years to produce a long ago, for he encountered all sorts of pearl, but the results were unsatisfactory difficulties, even to the extent of having his until a Japanese discovered the secret. entire plant destroyed several times by the In 1879 Mr. K. Mikimoto began his "Red Current," an immense accumulation operations by first cultivating the oyster of microscopic organisms, causing a discol- which produces pearls. He realized that oration of the sea water. Whenever this the pearl fisheries were being rapidly de- appears it is followed by wholesale destruc- pleted, and set about to restore the supply. tion of all shellfish, and when it invades His experiments were futile for several the pearl culture grounds, it may undo in years, and his friends laughed at him for one day the work of years. "throwing his money into the sea," al- Success at last crowned his efforts, and

423 424 THE MID-PACIFIC in some of the oysters into which he had island of Tatokujima, the center of the introduced foreign substances pearls were pearling enterprise. When first taken pos- found. Imperial patent was bestowed upon session of it was uninhabited, but now it him and his business grew. Experiments supports a flourishing colony of several are still conducted, although the pearls dozen families and many hundred individ- produced at the present time are well-nigh uals, all connected in some capacity with perfect. the pearl oyster culture. The sea bottom It might be interesting in this connection around the island was at first leased, the to touch briefly upon the method of culti- area being increased from time to time, vating pearls. When the spats or young until finally, in 1903, 1905, 1908 and also oysters are three years old they are taken 1910, the Government, recognizing the im- out of the sea and a scientific stimulus is portance of the enterprise, granted the use applied. The oysters are then regularly of a very large portion of the bay and also planted in the beds of the sea, and there the Bay of Gokasho and Hasama, so that remain for four years. Meantime the at the present day the whole of the sea oyster, finding a foreign substance within area leased by Mikimoto extends for fifty itself, seeks to expel it. Failing in this, nautical miles. it proceeds to encapsulate it by throwing a The pearl oyster cultured on these part of its beautiful body about it. This grounds belongs to the species (M. mar- is done gradually by the nacreous secretion tensii) abundant in the Bay of Ago and of the oyster. To produce a pearl by this found more or less in all parts of Japan. means takes at least seven years, and if They closely resemble the Indian species the oysters are attacked by the Red Cur- found near Ceylon, famous for producing rent, as was the case in the spring of 1905, the finest pearls in the world. These mol- the, work must start all over again. The luscs live at a depth not exceeding seven oyster beds, too, must be carefully guarded fathoms, and are anchored to rocks, stems all the time, for the octopus, starfish and of algae, etc., by threads which the animals seaweed are all deadly enemies of the pearl secrete. oyster and must be kept away. Whereas in Australia and India pearl- About a dozen miles south of the famous fishing is conducted by men, it is the Shrine of Ise is the sheltered Bay of Ago, women who obtain the pearl oysters, by long famous for producing the best quality diving, in Japan. They are recruited from of pearls. It is a remarkably quiet body the villages and towns upon the seashore, of water, some six miles in length and three and before they adopt this somewhat miles in breadth, with an average depth of strange vocation for women, are well ten fathoms, although it is over twenty acquainted with the sea and know some- fathoms deep near the entrance. The coast thing about the art of diving. They com- line is cut into with many deep and irregu- mence their work at the age of thirteen lar indentations, which, besides affording or fourteen. They are in the water almost excellent shelter and ground for the pearl all the year round, except in the coldest oysters to thrive in, have the additional season, from the end of December to the merit of making the scenery exceedingly beginning of February. But even during picturesque. The fact that the "Kuro- this inclement weather they sometimes dive shiwo," the great "Gulf Stream" of the for pearls. The women wear a special Pacific, sweeps near by is also undoubtedly dress, consisting of white knickers, short an important factor in making this a fa- skirt and vest, while the hair is twisted "-orite haunt of the precious mollusc. up upon the head in a hard knot. The Somewhat to one side of the middle of eyes are protected by glasses to prevent the the bay towards the north is the small entrance of water. Tubs, resembling but- THE MID-PACIFIC' 425

ter barrels, complete their diving outfit. lie at the bottom of a six-foot swimming A boat in command of a man is assigned bath while you count sixty, and then reflect to every five to ten women divers, and that these women stay the same length of carries them to and from the fishing time, and more, under twelve to thirteen grounds. When the divers reach this they times that pressure and depth, busily work- land upon the rocks or- islands, and then ing with their hands the whole while. at once plunge into the water and begin The hours of labor vary with the sea- their search for oysters. These are dropped sons. In warm weather about six to eight into the tubs, which are suspended by a hours constitute a day's work. Then three rope to their waist. When these vessels divers have been known to collect a thou- are filled the women pull them towards sand pearls between them. In very cold the boat, help to lift them in, and then re- weather the divers cannot work more than turn to the shore. from one to two hours. The wages range The pearl oysters are found at a depth from sixpence to two shillings a day. The of from five to thirteen fathoms. The highest ever paid is five shillings. Aston- women dive to the bottom without any spe- ishing as it may seem, some of the women cial apparatus, and retain their breath when manage to save considerable money, largely under water. They aisdain the use of because the cost of living is so low. Some weights to help them in their descent. of the young divers try to earn their mar- They can remain below the surface from riage dowry by diving. one to two minutes, and in a few instances It is a picturesque sight to see the white- for a period of three minutes, without ex- robed daughters of Nippon plunge into the periencing any ill-effects. In the cold clear water, sink out of sight, sending out weather they will dive for an hour and ripples in all directions. They have a then return to shore to warm themselves curious habit of uttering a sound like a by the fires built in huts specially for this hoarse whistle as they inhale and exhale purpose, and after partaking of a frugal on entering and leaving the water. meal of rice and fish, again resume their There has been a belief from time im- work. These fair divers vary in age from memorial that women can work better and thirteen to forty years. It has been found, longer under water than men, and the however, that those from twenty-five to women divers of Ise are often mentioned thirty-five make the best divers, because of in classic literature. Perhaps this curious their physical strength and experience. condition of things may furnish the modern Some of these women will bring to the student of social science an excellent op- surface a hundred oysters in a minute from portunity to investigate the effect of the a depth of thirteen fathoms. Partly to transference of the wage-earning to the realize what this means you have only to women. 426 THE MID-PACIFIC

Only the Riviera in Italy and the famous Amalfi Drive can compare with the wonderful ride over the Hamakua Extension Line of the Hilo Railway on the Island of Hawaii. It is noth- ing short of marvelous. Near Hilo.

A Railroad In Fairyland

By DE VIS—NORTON.

N THESE sad days, when all Europe their own individual way for their scenic rings to the deafening clamor of the splendor, but here in Hawaii is a land of I brazen-throated guns, and many of over 4000 square miles, containing not only its grandest edifices lie in mere shell-shat- every imaginable variety of tropical scenery, tered heaps amid the smoking ruins of their but offering to the tourist snow-capped ancient cities; in these days, when the usual peaks nearly 14,000 feet in height, with routes are barred to the tourist, and the active volcanoes thrown in. globe-trotter must seek new lands to con- Almost every traveler knows that the quer, the Hawaiian Islands must surely greatest active volcano in the wide world come into their own at last. is situated on the Island of Hawaii; most Of all the lovely fleet of islands which people even know that this crater of lies moored under the setting sun in the Kilauea may be approached to within fifty Mid-Pacific, the big Island of Hawaii, yards of its fiery verge by automobile, but which gives its name to the group, and has comparatively few are aware that upon so aptly been termed the "Scenic Island," is this same Island is one of the most mar- perhaps the most deserving of an extended velous scenic railroads ever constructed ; a visit. True, the other islands are all lovely, railroad at once a tirumph of engineering all climatically perfect, and all famed in skill against almost overwhelming odds,

427 428 THE MID-PACIFIC and a means of viewing such a panorama bare, brown uplands topping the forest belt of scenic splendor as well-nigh takes the beneath. breath away. One wished that this part of the journey Of the many thousands who annually might last for days, but all too soon we visit the great volcano of Kilauea and reached the wharf and I had to part from spend a short day or so viewing its awful my comfortable though temporary abode. grandeur, few seem to have accomplished Hilo looks "exceeding good" from the sea; the amazingly beautiful scenic excursion its white-walled homes nestle cozily be- over the coast line of the railroad leading neath the dark mango trees crowning the northward out of Hilo, the chief city of slopes above the bay, which, wide and the Island. It was with a view to seeing crescent-shaped, and offering anchorage for myself the wonders I had heard of for any number of the largest and heaviest concerning this trip, that I recently jour- draft steamers, is distinguished by pos- neyed from Honolulu to the Big Island, sessing one of the loveliest little cocoanut and a short account of the experiences of islands I have ever been privileged to see. that trip may be of interest to the readers Behind the city are the inevitable cane- fields, almost encroaching upon the streets, of the MID-PACIFIC. and always there looms up that enormous I had fully expected that the sea portion mountain, which, as one travels about the of the journey would have to be made in Island, becomes an ever-present friend and the usual type of small steamer plying be. delight. tween the islands of the southern seas, but Driving from the fine wharf at which in this I was most unexpectedly disillu- the steamer lands her passengers, I was sioned. I went down to the wharf in soon breakfasting in the shady dining room Honolulu and was conducted aboard a of a delightfully situated fern-embowered vessel which for comfort and good feed- hotel, and shortly afterwards made my ing is a pattern to all of the smaller type way to the depot of the railroad, where of steamship companies, and which it I was met by the courteous gentleman who would be well if they would follow. constituted himself my host for the rest After a lazy day spent in reading and of a most wonderful day. lounging, I went to bed, but was up be- Before entering upon any description of times next morning to enjoy the perfect the journey I must confess that I made air of the early hours of the tropics. My it under perfect conditions. The day was good vessel was speeding along the eastern gloriously fine; the cool sea breeze tem- coast of Hawaii, and a wonderful pano- pered the heat of the coast, and we jour- rama passed before my eyes. Rarely have neyed in the private track car belonging I seen such brilliant coloring as this won- to the management of the road. We derful coast affords; deep brown cliffs, stopped when and where I asked to stop, topped by huge stretches of the pale green and I am afraid that the patience of my sugar-cane; back of this the dark, shad- host must have been sorely tried by the owed belt of tropical forest, and behind multitude of questions he had to answer, it all and dwarfing the whole scene, im- but all through the long day he remained mense as it is in its extent, the gigantic suave, kind-hearted, unruffled, and every slope of the snow-crowned mountain of ready to give information concerning the Mauna Kea, towering up and ever up- beauty spots through which we passed. wards in the clear light of early morn; As for those beauty spots, it would take far away and yet brilliantly clear in all every page of this magazine to do justice its larger details, with its burnt-out cone to them: one may only venture to skim craters showing up strongly against the lightly over them in the hope that others THE MID-PACIFIC 429

will go and see them and carry in their ting than unfolds itself in this dainty para- turn the good tidings of a new land of dise of a place, where, under the graceful most glorious beauty. crests of the cocoanut palms and half hid- The journey had hardly begun before den in the broad leaves of the banana I realized that the cost of nearly $4,000,- plants, lie just a very few of the old 000 for the construction of the thirty-four native grass houses. They lie on a tiny miles of this branch of the system was re- green point jutting out into the sea and markably cheap railroad building. The dividing into two portions a little semi- line was only completed in 1913, and every circular bay, upon whose sands the sea device that modern engineering skill can croons in lazily through the sunny days. contrive for the overcoming of apparently At each side there is a headland, one insuperable difficulties had to be called topped with sugar-cane and the other into play. The whole work is nothing gashed by the cutting of the railroad. short of marvelous; the line crosses terrific Behind the land rises steeply and shuts chasms on steel, spider-legged bridges so out the village from the sea. By the high that they make one dizzy; it runs northern headland there is a wondrous along ledges blasted out of precipices archway, carved by the hand of time from against which the sea beats in thunderous the solid rock. Fully fifty feet it rises in surf; it goes round corners so sharp that perfect symmetry, making a lovely frame the ends of the train nearly meet, and it indeed for the picture of azure sea and dives through cuttings and tunnels which creaming surf beyond. Truly one of na- emerge over the very sea itself. ture's rarest pictures for artists to depict The cost was tremendous, but necessary; in cunning fashion for the world to see. the skill was superb, and the whole line One could have lingered there for many is patrolled daily by gangs of men whose hours, idly dreaming in the shade of the duty it is to safeguard the passengers and palms, but time required us to resume our to watch for the slightest rockfalls or slides journey, and we retraced our steps to the along its length. depot once more. We left the depot in Hilo and were We crossed several more fairylike soon steadily climbing uphill through the gulches, and presently came to Honomu cane plantations, and now commenced the Gulch, deep, narrow, and covered with marvelous panorama of jutting headlands, heavy vegetation, from the prevailing dark barring the way and receiving the on- tone of which the lauhala trees rear their slaught of the rolling billows of the Pa- straggling branches and pale, tufted leaves. cific; sublime gorges, rural scenes of rustic Down the bed of the ravine leaps and simplicity, babbling b[ooks, foaming tor- laughs the daintiest of little torrents, hur- rents, majestic waterfalls and tremendous rying on its way to the sea close by. Ho- precipices, which lasted throughout the en- nomu is simply the perfection of tropical tire journey. scenery, and nature has fashioned it with The Honolii Gulch, the native name no niggard hand. for "Little Harbor," was first reached, And here, again, we digressed from the making, with its beautiful waterfall and line and paid a visit to the famous Akaka miniature harbor, a superb picture viewed Falls, noted as the most beautiful in the from a height of a hundred feet above Island. The river rushes through a rocky the sea. The Onomea Gulch was next gulch, foams over its many boulders, and reached, and here my kind host agreed to suddenly plunges over the edge in a stop while we paid a visit to one of the mighty leap of nearly five hundred feet fast-vanishing old native villages. One to a deep basin beneath. On all sides could hardly imagine a more exquisite set- - the perpendicular walls rise sheer, heavily 430 THE MID-PACIFIC clothed with tropical foliage and scarred ful scenic line, the Maulua tunnel and cut. with the courses of innumerable small falls It is only a mile and a half in length, but which pour over the rim in rainy weather, its cost was upwards of $400,000. The while one may follow a trail clear to the tunnel is 2800 feet long and emerges onto head of the falls and gain a most impressive a great curved steel bridge 160 feet in view of the wild gorge below, through height and over 1000 feet long, while the which the river makes its way after its train next runs along a narrow ledge on mad leap from the heights above. It is the face of a terrific precipice, so that one small wonder that this is one of the favor- looks straight down into the blue ocean. ite excursions from Hilo or that the praises One wonders what would happen if a of Akaka Falls are sung by all who see rockslide came down, but this is a well- them. managed line and such things never occur Resuming our journey, we crossed the on any well-regulated railroad. Kolekole Gulch, where, a hundred feet And so we came to Laupahoehoe, of below, the breakers dash against the foot- which one could well write a volume. It ings of the bridge, and where one may lies far below the line, and is a peaceful look down upon the tops of the cocoa village built on a tongue or leaf of lava palms and away past a long succession of which juts out into the sea from the foot headlands which lose themselves in the far of the great cliffs which wall it in on three distance to the south. And now we came, sides. The pretty white cottages nestle through the heart of sugar land, to the under the clumps of the cocoa palms, and glorious Hakalau Gulch, crossed by a everywhere is a riot of flowers and creep- bridge 750 feet long and nearly 200 feet ing vines. At one time Laupahoehoe was high, from which one may look down upon one of the most famous of all Hawaiian a sugar mill and a tiny settlement far be- villages, for here were many heiaus or low. It is recorded that this gulch was temples, and every foot of the village is once the stronghold of a band of robbers closely invested with stories of the olden who preyed upon the countryside, and days, but now Laupahoehoe rests on its surely they could hardly have chosen a laurels, and perchance dreams of the stir- better spot for their headquarters, for the ring scenes which were enacted upon its gulch descends in precipices sheer to the lava beach, and hears again the temple sea, the narrow valley being heavily wood- drums calling to each other across the ed and having almost perpendicular walls. valley from the great cliffs. We swept At Honohina Gulch there was a start- round at a tremendous height, gaining a ling surprise, for the canyon is over 200 curiously foreshortened view of the people feet in depth and drops perpendicularly on in the village street beneath, and so came either side, the narrow space being lined to the most wonderful of all the bridges with beautiful pandanus palms. We which cross the deep canyons. Oh, the crossed it on a bridge with a tremendously curve of that bridge! What a triumph of sharp curve, and it gavg me one of the skill it is, and what a spectacular view it most amazing views of the whole trip, opens up to the visitor! Far below, look- unless that can be said of Nanue Gulch, ing thread-like and tiny, runs the auto- which we crossed shortly afterwards by a mobile road which goes clear around the dizzy bridge no less than 230 feet in height. Island ; tiny bushes are in reality great This is the highest bridge on the line, and mango trees, laden with their luscious fruit, to one unacquainted with engineering de- and stumpy palms are actually a hundred tails it is a truly marvelous piece of work. feet and more in height. Everything is And now we entered upon the most dif- dwarfed and everything seems unreal; it ficult and expensive section of this wonder- is hard to believe that one is traveling upon THE MID-PACIFIC 431 a modern railroad above this tremendous earth's most famed beauty spots, endorse gulch, whose very narrowness adds to its his opinion. Of all the great attractions of depth and intensifies the shadows with the Hawaiian group, the Volcano of Ki- which its thickets are filled. lauea must ever be first; one is bound to So presently we came to Paauilo, the admit that; but the Hamakua Extension terminus of a journey filled with breath- Line of the Hilo Railroad comes an easy less wonder and not a little of real awe. second, and no visitor should neglect it. Somehow it was almost a relief to come Of our journey back, later in the after- out of the clouds and to sit down to lunch- noon, when the shadows were lengthening eon in a tidy little restaurant : it gave one and all the light effects had changed, I time to collect one's scattered impressions am longing to write fully, but space and and to remember that the journey back a hard-hearted editor forbid. I can only would be equally wonderful and equally urge with all the love of nature that is unique. in me, that every visitor to Hawaii, the In any other land this railroad trip, Scenic Island of the Hawaiian group, which may be made in a short day, the should make this unique and inexpensive whole return journey taking under five trip. I have said that it takes but five hours, would be the objective of countless hours, and so is easily within the compass tourists; but here, though each years shows of those who make the usual run to the on increase, it has been almost neglected. volcano; so it is perhaps only necessary to One of the high officials of a leading Ameri- emphasize that as a scenic trip it is with- can railroad has said that next to the Grand out a peer, and should be made by all who Canyon of the Colorado, this was the most love the beauties Dame Nature in her most wonderful ride in the whole world. Most beneficent mood can provide for the delec- heartily can I, who have seen many of tation of her worshippers. 432 THE MID-PACIFIC Corner in Old Shanghai.

.• An Hour in Old Shanghai

By W. H. HEINRICHS.

OU have always said that there But I don't want to tell you about was so much of the Orient in China, only of my short trip to the old y Hawaii that you hadn't much desire city of Shanghai. I secured my guide at to visit China; but let me tell you that you the Palace Hotel, and we went by 'riksha are mistaken. I suppose you know that to the old section. The fare was only China defies the world to equal her in three five cents each in our American money, important respects: her age, her 'popula- and the guide, one dollar Mexican, or tion, and her industries. A Chinaman once about forty-five cents American silver, for said to an American: "Wait till your Gov- the hour. ernment has been tried before you boast of You know the old city the moment you it. What is a hundred years? Ours has are out of the Foreign Concessions, with stood the test of forty centuries. When their tall buildings, broad streets, and fine you did not exist, we were. When you stores, as it changes immediately into a shall have passed away, we still shall be." dirty, squalid, crowded place, the streets That in itself is enough inducement to so narrow that you can touch the walls bring me here. on either side, and thronged with people. 3-M. P. 433 434 THE MID-PACIFIC

There are very few white men there; in The ladies' quarters were interesting. fact I didn't see one during "my whole trip. This old boy had seven wives, and I sup- The shops are little more than booths in pose if he fell in love again he would have the walls, with the wares hung on the sides to extend his quarters, for each lady had or on the stands in front. a house to herself, and I noticed they were Beggars pester you everywhere. The graduated in elevation, probably denoting mothers bring ragged, dirty infants in their their relative positions in his affections. It arms to salaam to you and call, "Ta-lo-lo," must have been very pleasant or very try- which later I found meant, "Magnificent ing to have to greet seven in a row when- gentleman, please show mercy," or some ever he came home after a hard day's work. such Oriental palaver. The guide had Think what a fine volume of sound they warned me not to give them anything, but could make if they gathered on their pri- if I had had known the interpretation be- vate front piazzas to give him three cheers fore it was too late I'd have given all I in the morning and speed him off to his had to anyone that was willing to call me offices on China's Wall Street. "magnificent gentleman" ; in fact, I be- After leading me through gloomy cor- lieve I'd have paid some of them to follow ridors with white walls, literally covered me doing so. One little girl of only about with the names of British and American eight, excited even my staunch heart to sailors, we came plumb up against a great pity, but I felt very glad that I hadn't iron gate with a hideously intricate looking been beguiled into philanthropy after I lock. Here was no escape. An old Celes- heard that the beggars are one of the tial, who looked as though he might have wealthiest and most exclusive sets in the been Confucius' father-in-law, confronted old city. Everyone can't be a beggar in us and demanded twenty cents. What Shanghai, mind you. could I do? I couldn't jump the ten-foot The guide then took me to the Manda- wall, so I gave it to him and bade him rin's home, or, as he called it, "a mandolin invest it in lichee nuts. house." I thought I was getting into some A joss-house was the next thing we en- opera house or orchestral residence. We countered. Here all was dark but for the approached the shrine where the old Man- light of incense burners and pots of fire at darin's face was painted on a chart, and the bases of big, black bodies that later, my Chinese companion told me he was as my eyes got accustomed to the dark, "berry fine Mandolin." I almost wished proved to be huge black idols, too ugly I had my banjo along, so that we might to describe. I was watching the prostra- have a duet—"When East Meets West." tions and silent worship there, when an old He did obeisance to the face over the fellow who looked like a priest came up to shrine, and wanted me to, but it hurt my me with an armful of tiny boats made of dignity even to take off my hat to a face paper, about twice as large as our silver like that one. Foolishly I had forgotten dollar. He began gesticulating wildly, my camera. and after an ominous pause continued his Then he showed me the tea-rooms and gibberish. Then he waited for an answer, gardens. There was nothing very unusual so I said quite positively, "Sure; why cer- about the former, except the wall carvings, tainly," and whether or not he knew what now encased in glass to prevent tourist I said, he immediately threw ten boats into "chipping." The stones and wells of the the caldron of fire at the feet of the ugliest gardens were all carved in shapes of drag- idol, and watced them burn. Then he ons and lions. There was one dragon held out his hand for coin. I asked the which formed a terrace over fifty feet long, guide how much he wanted, and he said and way down in the wells on this terrace forty cents, so I gave him ten. But he you could see shimmering through the cool seemed quite delighted. A good rule to water faces engraved in the stones. observe in China is to offer about one- THE MID-PACIFIC 435

fourth of what is asked, and to pay about Earth, before which daily are set tapers one-third. You will wonder what the and incense. Within the shop are the paper was for. I am glad I asked Mr. Ancestral Tablets and the Shrine of the Brockman when I took lunch with him at Kitchen God, each of which requires daily his home a little later. He laughed and offerings ami an ever-burning light. Many said I had bought ten cents' worth of of the richer and better-class shops have money, which would by burning be changed also an altar to the God of Wealth. into ten million times that amount, and I had the good fortune to observe a go to my friends who had embarked at the funeral procession. It was about the most River Styx and shuffled off this mortal coil unique sight I ever witnessed in my life. without their pocket-books or bank checks. In advance of the coffin, which was carried Some stunt! I almost wish I'd given him by a dozen strong coolies, a man ran along a dollar. It must be a business that pays with rolls of white paper cut up in the immense dividends. form of cash, which he scattered right and When I first, entered the old walled city left along the route of the procession. it seemed an effort to breathe, and I won- This, I learned, was to buy the way and dered how people could live in such pent- appease the spirits, that they might not up quarters. This feeling, however, wore annoy the soul of the dead as it passed off in a measure as I penetrated deeper and within the coffin. Behind the coffin stag- deeper into the city, and I soon became gered a man in sackcloth, supported by accustomed to the extremely narrow streets, two hired attendants, loudly bewailing the indifferent to the mobs of curious gazers misfortune that had deprived him of a at my back, displayed admirable fortitude relative. (It was the man's father who in the presence of sights and smells that had died.) Thirty or forty hired mourn- were overwhelming at first, and absorbed ers followed, who certainly were earning in all the new, strange phases of life pre- their pay, for they made enough noise to sented in this. ancient city. The preva- wake the dead. lence of the most disgusting smells among I spent hours in this old city, letting my rich and poor alike, however, took a long guide lead me anywhere he wished. Ev- time to "wear off," but the interest of the erything was strange and new to me, and streets cannot be surpassed, though most my brain was in a mad jumble when I left of them are dirty and all are narrow, some the old, crumbling walls and again emerged being only about four feet wide and few into the sunlight. exceeding ten feet. Great planks, ranging I left Shanghai yesterday on the S. S. from ten to thirty feet in length are sus- Chiyo Maru, on my way to Hongkong, pended at right angles 'to the shops, with and have just seen such a sight as one the names of the shops and their businesses seldom sees in a lifetime. It was the first in large letters, green and gold, red and truly tropical sunset we have had. Just black, brown, orange, blue, yellow and as the great ball of fire sank into the silver- green, painted, carved, grained, or lac- gray sea, with the low-lying hills of China quered, forming a maze of bewildering on the horizon, a small coasting steamer colors. These immense signs reduce the crossed the disc and stood in bold silhouette width of the street considerably. Every against the field of gold. Then the color- dwelling house is a shop also, and in this ing began. "Wonderful" is quite too in- city a shop is not merely a receptacle of adequate an adjective. "Beautiful" might articles for sale; it is also a miniature do were it not so much related to the manufactory, where we can watch each feminine, for in the strict sense of the term process fromt he beginning. Each shop, no it was all that. But "gorgeous" seems to matter how small (and some seemed like me to convey the idea in some measure. I doll-houses to me) has at least three shrines think that just to tell you that it was worth set apart for family worship. On the a five-thousand-mile trip ought to present threshold is a tablet to the Gods of the to you some notion of its grandeur. 436 THE MID-PACIFIC

The City of Sydney has an individuality all its own. It can never be mistaken for any other place, and the daily scenes in the crowded civic center before the General Post Office, (shown above) are ever characteristic of the one Euro- pean-like City of Australia. Sydney Harbor.

G From Bluff to Sydney

FROM THE EDITOR'S DIARY. (Continued.)

HE WARRIMOO is one of the In the morning we enjoyed a tramp smaller boats on the run from through the beautiful Domain Park, clam- T Sydney to Melbourne around the bering up the higher hills, from which South Island of New Zealand, so for three every part of Hobart and the surrounding days we rolled along, crossing the Tasman country can be seen. This is one of the Sea. It was more or less rough and cold, beautiful walks of Australasia, and al- and this voyage is not often a pleasant one. though Mount Wellington did not seem Joe succumbed early in the game, and the to be so high as our mountain peaks back fourth and last day I nearly gave in. of Honolulu, and was in comparison blue It was a rainy afternoon when we came and bleak where not covered with snow, within sight of Tasmania, and the fog yet there are fern-clad dells of tropical was thick so that the beautiful bay of the beauty on the way up this mountain that Derwent River did not seem so attractive. make it a wonderland of delight for tour- Moreover the doctor came aboard and sists. Hobart seemed to have grown con- kept us waiting two hours. He refused siderably and to be much more lively than our certificates, showing that we had been it appeared on my first visit, six years ago. vaccinated twice, on the ground that the Two of the doctor's assistants were at New Zealand Government had not en- the boat to see that we left Tasmania and dorsed them, and we expected to go into did not break quarantine. We got away qurantine for three weeks. However, at at ten sharp. Hobart and the bay seemed the last moment he relented asd we were beautiful in the bright sunlight as we ordered to report aboard the S. S. Paloosa sailed away. at ten o'clock the next morning and get As we passed out of the Derwent River out of Tasmania as fast as that boat, bound we came close to the wonderful basaltic for Sydney, would let us. cones at the southern end of the Tasmanian

437 438 THE MID-PACIFIC

Island. For miles the country seems to be At the table, opposite to me, was a built of basaltic columns that rise hundreds gentleman, who, with his family, is en- of feet from the sea. There are discon- gaged on the Huon River, near Hobart, nected steeples that rise like cathedral in the fruit business. He started life as spires. There are basaltic columns seem- a boy of fourteen, allowing himself five ingly about a foot or two in diameter that shillings a week for food and clothing. rise above the surface for a hundred feet. At twenty-one he had saved $15,000, and Broken columns placed on solid columns; now owns fruit and passenger steamers on it was all wonderful. We passed the light- the Huon River and has brought the big house on its little basaltic island, and it Union Steamship Company to terms by seemed as though the boat would graze the running one or two of his small steamers column on one side of the tiny island, on as far north as Queensland. He told me which was built an inclined railway from that for years he did not get to bed at the edge of the cliff to the lighthouse on all on Friday or Saturday nights, and for the peak. As we faced .this railway it weeks he did not have his clothes off. seemed to rise perpendicularly for a thou- Everyone advised him to give up the fight, sand feet, but as we steamed around the but he as out to win and not to make island we could see that it was an inclined money, and he won. cog railway on an angle of forty-five de- All Sunday morning •we were in sight grees. There was a little landing, supplied of the coast of Australia and could clearly with great derricks and windlasses for lift- observe the towns and seaside resorts. ing up cargo from far below. All about About nine o'clock we came abreast of there were thousands of petrels, screaming The Heads and soon entered the beauti- and circling within a few feet of the sea. ful harbor of Sydney, which seems to Now and then we could see schools of spread out in every direction in arms or fishes, so could understand why the petrels fingers from the narrow entrance. A seemed as thick as bees. All afternoon we cruiser and three torpedo boat destroyers steamed along by the steep perpendicular of the new Australian fleet passed us as sides of Eastern Tasmania, in a sea that we sailed up the harbor. was evidently unusually calm. A light mist lifted and Sydney unveiled By lunch time the following day we had herself in every direction, so that I could come in view of the Australian coast, pass- see that a "sky-scraper" had arrived. ing one lighthouse after another, and be- Percy Hunter, the head of the N. S. W. tween great mountains and extensive Tourist Bureau, was on the wharf await- beaches, but no apparent sign of habita- ing me, with his chief assistant. He was tion. Several times large steamers passed the same old companion of several cam- us on their way south. Once we steamed paigns, and had the two Sydney 'morning through acres of birds that lay still on the papers with him, containing eulogistic waters. The swells from the bow of our paragraphs from his pen concerning my boat seemed to drive them under, then arrival. Hunter has two sons of his own, amidships birds would suddenly appear schoolboys, so I sent Joe with them for from the depths of the sea and try to fly a walk in the Domain and to Manly away. It was a unique sight. The sail- Beach, while Hunter and I took the ferry ors said that these were the storm petrels. to the other side of the bay, and the elec- Joe insisted that they were only mutton tric tram to the Middle Harbor, where birds. They may both be correct. Later some friends of his were camping. The on we passed a number of white birds, trolley ride was mostly along the cliffs at genets, but these did not deign to get out the edge of one of the bays or inlets and of our way. then along the main ridge to Middle Har- THE MID-PACIFIC 439 bor, which is an arm of the main bay and quarter of a mile wide. Thcre were house- about twelve miles in its beautiful, wind- boats here and there, and pleasure launches ing length. It winds in and out between running up and down over the smooth the verdure-clad hills, which are adorned waters of the harbor. On the side of the with handsome villas and pretty walks opposite hill Hunter's friends had their down to the water line, leading along tent house. One of them was an artist rocky crags encrusted with oysters. The in the kitchen, so our lunch, cooked in verdure-clad hills on either side of the Italian style, with every kind of wine at inlet reminded me much of some of the hand, was a thing to be remembered. In valleys in Hawaii, save that where the the afternoon we took a walk on the ridge taro beds should lie there was a vast sheet of water. Sink Honolulu a few hundred above and along the Middle Harbor, every feet in the sea and you would have an- turn revealing fresh beauties. We lin- other Sydney Harbor. gered long and did not return until after We hired a small boat to take us across six. This is but one of a score of out- from The Spit, which is the terminus of ings that may be made from Sydney any the tram line, to the other side of Middle day in the year to the coves and inlets Harbor, which is perhaps at this point a of her wonderful harbor.

The Derwent River near Hobart. 440 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Ditch Trail of Maui is famous for its waterfalls that come tumbling down from the slopes of Haleakala. In some of the horseshoe valleys there seem to be hundreds of waterfalls leaping over the edge of the precipices. The "Ditch." • • Motorcycling on Maui

• By JOSEPH B. STICKNEY.

OME day it will be possible on the shore ten thousand feet up in the air to the Island of Maui to ascend by motor- edge of the crater. As it is, one may now S cycle to the rim of Haleakala, the motor with ease to Olinda, eight miles highest and largest extinct crater in the from the summit, and from there on, a world. It will also be possible to com- good horse trail, which is soon to be turned pletely encircle Maui Island, the second into a motor road, leads to the summit of largest of the Hawaiian group, and to earth's largest crater. motorcycle over its wonderful Koolau The three of us — my brother, Fenner Ditch Trail, the tropical beauty of which Stickney, Edric Cook and I — left Hono- is unsurpassed in the world. Convicts are lulu Friday evening, and at daylight Sat- at work on the road to the summit of urday morning our motorcycles were swung Haleakala, so that soon in a twenty-mile ashore at Kahului, Maui's busy little sea- spin motorcyclists may ride from the sea- port, from whence we started right out

441 442 THE MID-PACIFIC

"exploring." My machine was a seven found it unlocked, so climbed in and went horse-power Thor, and I carried Fenner to bed. We slept like tops at Olinda; no on the tandem. Edric's "Bus" was in no mosquitoes—the wind is so strong. At wise a new model, but "still going strong." eight o'clock the next morning we climbed Our goal was the rest house on the summit out of the window and were on the trail of Haleakala, which word, translated, again. Far above us and the clouds, Hale- means "The House of the Sun," and we akala's summit loomed up, and after we hoped to reach it that night. had walked straight up for a mile or so, I don't remember a bump on the road and the blue top did not seem to be a bit all the way to Paia, a distance of seven nearer, we had serious doubts as to whether miles, and from there on to Makawao, we would gain the summit before dark, well up on the side of the mountain, the although we had nine hours' daylight ahead riding is better than on most Oahuan coun- of us, and only six miles to go. But those try roads. Our machines were going like six miles—one steady pull upward! Mo- clockwork, and I am sure we didn't pay torcycling certainly isn't good practice for proper attention to the numerous "Speed mountain climbing; it makes one lazy and Limit, 15 miles" posts as we breezed past stiff, and this, coupled with the high alti- Paia, but as soon as the first real steep hill tude, made one of our party weak in the was reached Edric's motor refused to climb. knees, and the last three miles of the climb He coaxed it, helped it along by running he flopped down at each guidepost, placed beside it, talked to it (gently, of course), every two-tenths of a mile along the trail, but she would not climb. We put her on and rested. I would say, "Come on old the stand and tested her with the screw- fellow, try and get past the next one with- driver, and found that the front cylinder out stopping; you'll feel much better for had no power at all, and the machine had having done so." He would always say practically been running on one "lung." that he would try, but when the next post We tried to fix it, but our knowledge of was reached he would glance pitifully at motorcycle machinery was limited, and we me, when meant, "It's no use," and down couldn't make her to go. So the much- he would flop, having but one thought— disgusthd Edric shoved his "cast-iron junk," rest. as he called it, into an old empty barn by Well, I hang my head in shame when the roadside, and I took Fenner up to I say it took us just seven and one-half Makawao and then came back and got hours to negotiate that eight miles from Cookie. We arranged to leave the motor- Olinda, and when we reached the new con- cycle at Makawao, and started out afoot crete rest house on the brink of the great for Olinda, five miles away. Believe me, crater, and the caretaker, shivering, de- that was a long five miles, and it was manded a dollar each before opening the nearly dark when we reached Mr. Castle' iron door, we paid it willingly; if it had house, eight miles from the summit, and been five dollars, and the last cent we had, the worst yet to come. we would have paid it just as willingly, for Our spirits, which had soared sky high we had much more important things to on those good roads to Paia, had gradu- think of just then than mere money. We ally lowered on the long walk to Olinda, wanted rest, warmth and food, and we got but when we found Mr. Castle's house it. That Japanese should have been a locked and the prospect before us of a cold, king's cook instead of a caretaker of a rest damp night outside, they—what was left house on the summit of a lonely island of them—took a sudden and violent down- peak, for the dinner he prepared out of fall. We were too tired to consult our rice, pork and beans and cocoa tasted like consciences, when we tried a window and heavenly manna to us. THE MID-PACIFIC 443

Before going to bed we dragged our- He told us that a telephone line was being selves to the edge of the crater and peered built to the summit, and soon he could over. Our physical discomforts were for- carry on a conversation with his sons in gotten, and we sat there on the brink of Lahaina. the yawning abyss until nightfall, and the Seven and one-half hours it took us biting cold which accompanies it, drove us pulling up from Olinda, but going down into the house, where we wrapped our- we made the same distance in one hour and selves up in all the blankets we could lay forty minutes. How we did whizz past hands on, and soon were in the land of those signposts, and at every one we could wonderful dreams. see where—I don't say which of us, I We were up early next morning, And out would never be forgiven—one of our party at our old place on the edge of the crater had thrown himself down exhausted. But waiting for the sun to rise. I have been there is one great advantage going up that around the globe and am familiar with you are not favored with coming down. scenic beauties that are world-famous, but On the up-trip your feet do not wabble of all the wonders of the world, I think within your boots and blisters do not ar- Sunrise on Haleakala should rank first and rive, but on the down-trip thed do. That foremost. It was marvelously beaus tul to is why, when we reached Olinda on our watch the clouds, starting from Mauna way to Makawao, we were carrying our Kea and Mauna Loa, peaks 14,000 feet shoes over our shoulders and limping high on the Big Island of Hawaii (the shamefully. At Olinda, Dr. Baldwin's highest island peaks in the world), miles empty automobile was about to leave for and miles away, drifting over the sea to- Makawao, where the motorcycle was, and ward Haleakala, gathering speed and vol- the chauffeur invited us to ride. It is ume as they approached, until they struck needless to say that we refused. (Liar !) the edge of the crater and poured over into At Makawao we put our shoes back on, it—a perfect Niagara of beautifully colored and after seeing that the machine was all foam, for by that time the sun was up right, walked over to the postoffice, a with his rays playing upon that water- quarter of a mile away, to mail home a fall of clouds as it poured over, changing couple of silver-sword plants, which grow it to red, then purple, yellow, and red nowhere else in the world but in the again. It was wonderful, indescribable. "House of the Sun." I don't think the Then all about us the clouds lifted, and United States postoffice at Makawao is ten thousand feet below were the fertile keeping up with the times. Edric gave sugar-cane fields of Maui. From our perch the postmaster half a dollar to pay for we could plainly see six of the eight inhab- ten cents postage, but instead of giving ited islands of the Hawaiian group—Oahu, change he made a bee-line out of the back far in the distance, and right near us, Lanai, Kahoolawe, Molokai, and a little door. Now if that had been a ten-dollar further away, Hawaii. gold piece we would have made a bee-line One of the most attractive features of after him. As it was our curiosity was the new Haleakala rest house is the Japa- very much aroused, but one of the old nese caretaker in charge. I don't believe village sages who was sitting around, told I have ever come across a more cheerful us between puffs from an ancient pipe that individual. It seems to me that he would he had gone home to get change. "What!" become morose up there, living by him- I exclaimed, "this a United States Govern- self, but he welcomed us most heartily, ment postoffice, and cannot change fifty even if he did shiver a. bit, and looked out cents ?" after our comforts in every way possible. "We never have need for change up 444 THE MID- PACIFIC here," he announced wearily, and went on good road became poor, bad, worse, very puffing. bad, and then very bad indeed. But we Edric was lucky enough to strike an had come too far to turn back, and on we automobile with a kind-hearted chauffeur skidded, through dust half a foot thick going down to Paia, so Fenner and I and across streams half a foot deep, until jumped on my machine and coasted until at nightfall we reached Huelo, or Kailua, we reached the deserted barn where Edric forty-five miles from Lahaina, this dis- had left his "junk." It was there all tance being the day's run. right, and at Paia he took it to Jack Rob- Mr. W. F. Pogue, the superintendent inson, who spent an hour on it. At the of the Koolau Ditch, lives at Huelo, and end of that time she was running fine, I had a letter to him. He seemed glad and on two "lungs," and Edric enthusi- to see us, although our faces were so caked astically announced after giving her a with dust that we were absolutely un- tryout, that she would climb a telegraph recognizable, and we were almost afraid post if she hit one ( ?) to open our mouths because dirt would be That night we pitched our tent near the sure to drift in from other parts of our bridge in beautiful Iao Valley, famous for "mugs." its waterfalls, its sheer drop-offs, and . its Without mental reservation, I will say Needle, a peak very much resembling that that the beds at Mr. Pogue's were the instrument, but, strange to say, dangerously softest I have ever slept in. After a bath accessible to daring climbers. The last and hot meal we struck those beds, and time I had visited Iao Valley, four years when morning came it took a good deal ago, and thirteen years old, I had stood of will power to drag ourselves out of on •the bridge and watched Gilbert Brown them. and another expert hiker scale that dizzy But we were in a totally different coun- peak, every inch hand over hand. I had try than that which we had been accus- been very much put out because at that tomed to on Maui—the Ditch Country, time I had been informed that I was too where the annual average rainfall is over small to try it. But this last time the four hundred inches, at the beginning of three of us did not scale the Needle—we the famous Ditch Trail, so wonderfully will say on account of our blisters. described by Jack London. Mr. Pogue We left early the next morning for La- and other Mauiites have kindly consented haina. I have never come across so many to let members of the Trail and Mountain twists and "hairpin" turns in my life as Club use their houses at the very reason- those which I negotiated on the way to able charge of fifty cents a night and fifty Lahaina, and when I reached the quaint, cents a meal. We decided that since we sleepy, old town I was a nervous wreck. had come so far, we had better spend the That afternoon wes penti n this ancient night there and go on farther. The Hawaiian capital was the only one on Maui road that we were not continually on the go. ends at Huelo, and a horse trail begins, When day broke the next morning we which leads along the Koolau Ditch to started back in the direction of Wailuku, Nahiku, a distance of twenty-one miles. not knowing where we would land up for This ditch carries water from one of the the night. Those same hairpin, up-and- rainiest countries in the world to a mod- down turns were negotiated, and I was erately dry country, both climates, how- the same "nervous wreck," but the spirit ever, being on one comparatively small of adventure was strong within us, and we island. pushed on, past Wailuku, Kahului, Paia, We were provided with lunches at Haiku, and still the good road kept up Huelo, and started out over the trail for and we kept on. Gradually, however, the Keanae, in the middle of the Ditch Coun- THE MID -PACIFIC 445 try, where another Trail and Mountain Huelo the next day we would stop and rest house is situated. feast. The beauty of the Koolau Ditch Trail We made Kahului just before dark, and is awe-inspiring. Falling water every- camped on the beach that night. We kept where. We walked through, under and a mosquito punk going all the time, which above the clouds. At every turn of the kept some of the pests away, and secured a trail one or a dozen waterfalls, leaping little sleep. hundreds of feet through the air, burst The next day, Saturday, was to be our upon our vision; great gulches, whose bot- last on Maui, for the S. S. Claudine was toms could hardly be seen ; the glorious booked to sail at four p. m. We were tropical vegetation, forests of koa and up early, struck the tent and tied it on kukui (candlenut) trees; ohia-ai.. trees, my luggage carrier, and in a few minutes bearing millions of red, juicy mountain were speeding along the beautiful road to apples; wild bananas, clinging to the sides Puunene, where is situated the largest of gorges, overborne by their great bunches sugar-cane mill in the world. And some- of fruit, and climbers of a thousand varie- thing else is situated at Puunene, too— ties, chief of which was the ie-ie, that for something infinitely more important to us all the world was like a climbing palm, —the largest fresh water swimming tank swinging on a thick stem from branch to in the Islands, and we got permission to branch and tree to tree. Lofty tree-ferns use it. For hours we slid, swung, dove thrust their great delicate fronds above the and swam, for the Puunene tank is fitted sea of green, and the lehua flaunted its with every possible convenience. About scarlet blossoms. Underneath the climb- noon we motored up to Wailuku, and ers, in wild profusion, grew the warm- there we had a good and hearty lunch colored plants that one is accustomed to at the Wailuku Hotel. Mrs. Trimble, the seeing preciously conserved in hot-houses. proprietress, presented us with a sack of These were some of the wonders of the large alligator pears, the "meat" of which Ditch Trail, but these wonders are inde- is a delicious natural salad. scribable. That afternoon we said good-bye to Keanae was reached about noon, and at Maui, the Hospitable Isle. Our machines Mr. Groves' place we were made comfort- were tied securely to the railing, and we able. A quarter of a mile below the house sat around on deck watching Maui grow is a delightful swimming pool, and Mrs. dim. The past week had probably been Groves gave each of us an old pair of the most enjoyable one of our lives, and trousers. We spent an hour diving and one we would never forget. We were swimming in the delightfully cool and deep many long miles out at sea before old water, and then the three of us went be- Haleakala faded out of sight. From where hind a huge boulder and got into our duds. we were, the great mountain, soaring high At Keanae we had some delicious thimble- up above the clouds, was awe-inspiring. berries and cream. Thimble-berries grow "Boys," I said, half sadly, half proudly, everywhere along the Ditch Trail, and "we were up on top there not very long every half-mile or so on our way back to ago." 446 THE MID-PACIFIC

4* 4* 4* 4*

Nowhere in the tropics do the coconut trees grow to such splendid fruition as on Palmyra Island, and nowhere does the sheen of their green forever glisten in the sun as in this lonely center of the Pacific. Rafts of Coconuts.

My Palmyra

By JUDGE HENRY E. COOPER. • ,•

ALMYRA ISLANDS, the palm- in company with C. Montague Cooke and fringed group of atolls which al- J. F. Rock, scientists, he went, saw, and p most became the cause of inter- was conquered by the virgin beauties of national complications a few years ago, the the little-visited islets: purchase of which by Judge Henry E. To fully describe all that we saw and Cooper of Honolulu necessitated the inter- the experience that we had on our trip to change of correspondence between the State and our exploration of the Palmyra Isl- Department at Washington and Downing ands would take nearly as much time as Street, and a hurried trip of the U. S. S. we spent on the trip, for no two days were California, under sealed orders, have finally alike and there was always something new been taken possession of formally by their to attract our attention during our stay on new owner. Just what Judge Cooper the islands. thinks of his South Sea possession is told With the exception of the first night and in the following article by him, following the following day, when it was a trifle his recent return from the south, where, boisterous, it was a jolly trip; ladies'

447 448 THE MID-PACIFIC weather for the most part all the way afternoon of the eighth day from Hono- down. In the doldrums we had the usual lulu, and immediately set up our tent on squalls with rain and a bit of wind. But the weather side. As night settled down nothing went wrong, not a rope or sail we began to wonder if we would need our carried away, and the Luka proved a most mosquito nets, but it passed without a sound satisfactory craft. or other sign of the pest, and we realized On the second day out we made two that there were none. Neither were there discoveries: first, that our principal water house flies, fleas or other noxious insects. tank was empty, the water having gone out The hermit crab was the only creature we through a hole in the bottom; second, that had to deal with, and to get rid of him one of our large life-preservers that was we had "picking times," when we would lashed on the side of the Luka had been go out with a bucket, pick them up and larried away by the heavy seas of the night put them in boxes and bags and deliver previous. The first incident appeared to them to a sailor from the Luka, who would be rather serious, but there were two tons take them out to sea and dump them over- of ice in the refrigerator, and we figured board. out that the natural melting of the ice Our first meal on the beach was cooked would furnish us with what water was over a roaring fire and consisted of roasted needed, and this proved to be the case. fish and eggs. The eggs of the black and The loss of the life-buoy concerned us white tern proved fine eating. Later we somewhat, as we feared that some inter- added cocoanut-crabs to our menu. These island steamer might pick it up and the proved delicious eating, as they feed ex- ever-ready rumor-maker might fashion a clusively on cocoanut, and their flesh is of story of the destruction of the Luka. a most delicate flavor. The large ones On the seventh day out we ran down were about the size of a good-sized hen. to the locality where we expected to find They are very nearly the shape of a lob- the islands. But they were not in sight. ster and as easily handled ; the stories about The log showed the proper distance, and their warlike nature are without founda- the noon observation proved us to be where tion. the islands should have been according to The next day my guests began their ex- the chart we had been using. We hastily ploration preparatory to making collections consulted another chart and found that of the flora and fauna of the islands, while we had ten miles further to go. We had I began to build our permanent camp and been on deck for a short time, when the the planting of our gardens ; bananas, man- man in the rigging called "Land ho!" goes and various kinds of vegetables. We And sure enough we could see a fringe also planted some sugar cane furnished by of cocoanut leaves just above the horizon the director of the planters' association ex- directly ahead. As the island rose from perimental station. The cane grew well at the sea we all became enthusiastic, almost first, but was later attacked by the hermit wildly so, as we saw the numerous islets crabs and destroyed by them, notwithstan.!- strung around on the reef about three- ing our efforts to protect them by numerous quarters of a mile inside the line of break- "pickings." A thorough campaign against ers. It surely looked like fairyland, and these pests would have resulted in their each islet was completely covered by a extermination, but as it was we could only luxuriant forest in which cocoa-palms pre- keep them partially subdued. dominated. The land and water coloring The heliotrope tree furnished the founda- cannot be described by words, and only an tion blocks for the house, as samples left artist could give an idea of its beauty. by the Japanese showed them to be firm and We landed on "Home Island" on the tough. THE MID-PACIFIC 449

About the fourth day it began to rain a fascinating spectacle that could be viewed and things were getting uncomfortable in again and again without tiring. the tent. We hurried the work on the Our life on the islands was as nearly house, and my friends suspended their work back to nature as I ever expect to experi- to help. We put on one side of the roof ence. There was absolutely no cause for in a drenching rain and moved in. labor so far as an existence was concerned, All about our house there were numbers which, combined with a charm of freedom of the white tern, or "love birds." They from business cares made our stay unique were very beautiful, and so tame they and refreshing. would flutter about us all day long; the The temperature varied from seventy- most interesting thing about them was the eight to ninety degrees, only two days manner in which they reared their young. showing a maximum. The routine of the A single egg would be laid on a tree with- day was a plunge in the swimming pool out a nest to prevent it from rolling off. at six in the morning, first looking to see A slight depression or a twig was the only if there were any sharks about; then a protection, and the young would be hatched half-hour devoted to breakfast; then work and cared for in the same place until able until eleven ; then an hour in the shade, to fly. with perhaps a light lunch ; then work There were myriads of the black and till five o'clock, which was often prolonged white terns on the bird islands. It was until late in the evening, when the tide nesting time while we were there, and at went down and we found ourselves at the first I was somewhat timid about walking other end of the island. We then indulged through their colonies on the sands. It in fhe new sport of "dragging the boat," seems as if they might at least give one a as we named it. good threshing with their wings, and I car- The only evidence of previous occupants ried a stout stick in my hand the first few was an open shed, apparently erected by trips, but soon learned that they would do Japanese, there being many rough wooden no harm. Many remained on their nests ber of earthen jars of evident Japanese and could be easily picked up. boxes with Japanese characters and a num- All around on the inside of the horse- manufacture. There was also an open fire- shoe line of islands there is a stretch of place, built of brick with a Japanese im- fine white sand which is covered by about press. These all proved of considerable two feet of water at high tide, but which usefulness to us in our early days on the is nearly bare at low water. One can island. Many of the jars were filled with wade about between the islands and also water, constantly renewed by rainfall. from the islands to the deep water lochs, The boxes furnished fine kindling wood as we called them to distinguish between and supplemented the cord of split fire- them and the lagoon proper. wood. Just what the Japanese were doing One of the most enjoyable afternoons to is difficult to say, but the evidence is that me was spent in drifting over the reef in they were there for bird-catching purposes. a skiff with a water glass over the stern, There was a large hole in the rear of the through which could be seen the wonder- shed, partially filled with skeletons of birds. ful colors, including all shades, from the The broken parts of two canoes indicated reds to the most delicate of pink, with that occupation had ceased three or four dashes of brilliant purple shading into lav- years before our landing. ender and lilac, interspersed with great The size of the cocoanut, and species of blotches of yellow set off with radiant bits heliotrope trees, which appeared to be in of pure white sand. The fantastic forms flower all the year around, puts in mind of the coral, and the many-hued fishes made the possible industry of bee-keeping.

4-M.P. 450 THE MID-PACIFIC

Other large trees were wiri-wiri, which ciently large to accommodate twenty-five is not to be confounded with our tree, the or thirty persons. will-will, being a distinct genus. Consid- The total area, as calculated by the erable forests of these trees were found on survey department from data in its pos- several of the islands. Another group of session is 351 acres. The smallest island trees was found on another island, which has an area of thirty-one hundredths of I believe to be identical with the holei tree an acre and the largest is forty-eight acres. in our Hawaiian forests. There were also We had an interesting drill on the way considerable forests of pandannus, of a dif- home. We had taken down a pen of ferent species from our own, having leaves Plymouth Rock chickens and turned them longer and of a finer texture. The largest Dose on Home Island. We found that tree on the island belonged to the wiri- they did well, but concluded not to leave wiri family, being twenty-one feet in cir- them there, not feeling it right, as we did cumference five feet from the ground and not know how they would thrive. Half with a height between eighty and one hun- way on our return trip, whilst I was at- tending to them, a hen flew out of a crate, dred feet. and after circling about the ship fell into Of the possible industries, copra-making the water. She had come too far to be clearly takes the lead. About one-half of left without an effort at rescue. The the available area is now covered with Luka put about and headed for the bird, cocoanut trees, but many of these will which was sitting on the water like a duck. have to be removed, as they are too thick As we came alongside one of the sailors to bear heavy crops. jumped overboard and threw her on the The great supplies of fish should be deck. The maneuver took four minutes, taken advantage of in some way, possibly and he in turn was hauled aboard by his by the erection of a cannery. Mullet are companions. in great numbers; also many other edible Probably the earliest description written ulua, houmea, moi, uhu and fish, including of Palmyra Islands is to be found in a others whose names I fail to remember. book printed in 1851 and dedicated by its It seems strange to speak of fish being anonymous author to Sir Edward Bulwer- tame, but the first mullet were brought Lytton, the famous novelist. R. Rudland in by one of my friends, who scopped them Bode, of Honolulu, has supplied the fol- up with his specimen-collecting net ; and lowing extract from this book: the use of a rough Chinese-made net, which "Palmyra Island is without exception we put together at the islands, yielded us the most singular formation I have ever a boat-load in a few hours. Five hundred seen. We landed on the east side, the of them were brought back in pickle and vessel having suddenly shoaled her water will be sampled in a few days to ascertain when about two miles from the breakers their condition. observed upon the land. We hove to in A rather novel condition has been de- six fathoms; bottom, white sand and coral. veloping during the past few days. A num- A ridge of breakers extends half a mile ber of gentlemen have asked me to sell from the southeast point of the island, and some of the smaller islands for the pur- a similar one runs off the northeast point, pose of locating their outing headquarters. which help to form a concave crescent, This at first appeared to be impracticable, within which the water is placid ; but the because of the lack of transportation, but island itself elicited our astonishment. We on further inquiry it seems that transporta- landed without difficulty on a flat contained tion could be arranged for by means of between the two curving points of the an auxiliary-propelled sailing vessel suffi- breakers, which had on it barely sufficient THE MID -PACIFIC 451

depth of water for us to track the boat a were deafening, and more peculiar than quarter of a mile, when we reached an islet, any combination of sounds I ever listened with its luxuriant foliage growing appar- to. Green water extends off the south side ently from the very surface of the water; of the island between two and three miles, and then we discovered that Palmyra Isl- and a distinct line of breakers runs from islets. A rock flat, from six to eight miles the southwest point about three-quarters of and is more properly an archipelago of a mile. A vessel might anchor in the in circumference, is covered with water bight on the south by west side, but she from ankle to knee deep, save where it is would have to warp into a berth, as sunken studded with islets placed indiscriminately. patches of rock lie scattered about with The islets rise only a few feet above the very little water upon them; they are ob- level of the water, and are composed of served from aloft, but the sea was so gray crystal rock, with a super-surface of smooth and still that they were unnoticed grass, vines and trees common to the trop- from the deck. On the west and north ics, the cocoanut and pandanus being sides the appearance is more that of the amongst them. Some of the islets appear Paumutu Isles; the surf breaks on a stretch exclusively appropriated to the cocoanut of white sand, above which springs the tree; on others, a strong parasitical vine, green foliage. That we might have noth- with broad, deep-green leaves, has overrun ing to reproach ourselves with, we sent the pandanus and other trees and en- thirteen volunteers to scour the island in shrouded them in its own peculiar livery; search of any vestige of the wreck; they and when at a distance it is hard to per- returned next day to the vessel, having suade yourself you are not surveying the seen no signs of man or his work. They ruins of buildings. On one of the eastern reported occasional chasms of deep water islets a remarkable tree stood distinct from on the shoal flats, and brought off two the others like an obelisk. So regular had green turtle, and by the tracks they con- the outline been formed from the base to ceived the latter were numerous. From the summit, by the close investiture of the a series of observations, we made the island smoothly overlapping leaves of the vine, to be in latitude 5° 51' N., longitude 162° that we believed it to be a monument 10' W. ; the chart placed it 20° further to raised by the wrecked people, until by land- the westward." ing we convinced ourselves to the contrary. (Information had been given to the writer From a more recent work, Mr. Bode also gives the following quotation: of the wreck of an American whaler with 2200 barrels of sperm oil, but no trace of "The Fanning Group of islands con- this was found.) Birds and fish were sists of four discovered by Captain Ed- alike unscared at the presence of man; mund Fanning, an American navigator. and fairly or unfairly I pursued one fish They stretch from 1° 47' N. to 5° 49' S. in the shoal water till I ran him aground. and from longitude 157° 29' W. to 165° Sharks were numerous, and so voracious 11' W. The most westward and evidently that they attacked both the boat and the the last formed of the group is Palmyra. steering oar as we were pulling ashore. Palmyra represents the second stage in the Birds were innumerable, and it being the formation of a coral, island; it now con- season of incubation, I never witnessed sists of fifty-eight small islets, thickly such a scene in my life. You could not clothed with vegetation, and arranged in move your foot without crushing eggs, and the form of an elongated horseshoe, opened the cries of the birds as they arose just to the westward and enclosing four la- above your head and darkened the air, goons." 452 THE MID-PACIFIC

Te Wairoa is in the center of the Maori lands of New Zealand, and in this district may still be seen the native carved houses of the Maori people and what is left of native life among the forty thousand aboriginal New Zealanders which are still living. The Stage.

A Journey to Le Wairoa

By R. E. SELBY.

N ARTISAN who happened to maining divisions are condensed in he spend a few days in a fashionable "Plumber" family. The former travel for A hotel in the "Drumtochty" neigh- pleasure and diversion, and include the borhood of Perthshire was asked, pertinent globe-trotter, the sportsman, the steap ex- of his bill, if he were a tourist. "Na, na," cursionist and all the army of professional replied the Scotchman, "A'm a plumber." sightseers—they are all "Tourists." Laurence Sterne has classified travelers The latter group travels of necessity, under the following heads: Idle Travel- business bent, and embraces the explorer, ers, Inquisitive Travelers, Lying Travel- the political emissary, the sailor, the news- ers, Proud Travelers, Splenetic Travelers, paper correspondent, the commercial trav- Travelers of Necessity, Delinquent and eler, the emigrant and "the leaderless Felonious Travelers, Unfortunate and In- legion"—all the wandering wights from nocent Travelers, Simple Travelers. the days of Cain, from the knight-errant To borrow a leaf from the Scotchman, to the swagman—whose business is to wan- I should be inclined to epitomize such a der, and whose necessity is the receding classification, and divide the genus trav- skyline. Such itinerants travel with as eler into two distinct species—the "Tour- little outlay as possible. They are "on ist" and the "Plumber." the cheap." They are all "Plumbers." The first six divisions of Sterne's list are You will meet no such heterogeneous, comprised in the "Tourist" order; the re- cosmopolitan crowd of travelers in Aus-

453 454 THE MID- PACIFIC tralasia as in Rotorua, New Zealand's stranger. You are not under the influ- famous thermal district. At this modern ence of the views and opinions of your Pool of Siloam there are all nationalities associate. Your impressions are as fresh —Jews and Gentiles, Cockneys and China- as the unfamiliar landscape. "Out of my men. At the house where I was boarding country and myself I go." I sat down at different times, cheek by In an excursion into the country I jowl, with a Frenchman, a Dutchman, an should prefer a horse, a dog—or even a Italian and a Russian-Polish Jew (a Brit- donkey like the immortal "Modestine"— ish subject to boot). Thither come all the to a human companion. Such fellow trav- halt and lame from all parts. elers would be more in harmony with the As I was in Rotorua in search of health surroundings, and would not interrupt —surely the hardest profession of all— your mood by discordant remarks and ir- to whatsoever subdivision you may rele- relevant digressions. gate me, I undoubtedly belonged to the However, I must make a beginning, or great "Plumber" order of travelers. my boast of traveling easily and lightly For this particular trip, by coach to looks like becoming a serious reflection and Wairoa, on which I am so long of start- my main impediment. Besides, should I ing, in accordance with the time-honored be led astray by every specious sidetrack custom of my fraternity, my impedimenta I shall never reach my destination. were more real than apparent, consisting, I boarded the coach at ten a. m., and as they did, of half a dozen sandwiches as I was the last of the complement we and Zangwill's "Without Prejudice." forthwith set off at a most propitious pace My purse never has been heavy enough along the wide, dusty road to Whakare- to constitute an encumbrance—nay, its warewa, a Maori village and one of the very levity has always been my main em- chief features of Wonderland. Presently barrassment. And so the actual scantiness we turned off to the left and ascended the of equipment, the total destitution of field- long, winding track to the scene of the glasses, camera and guide-book, insured my Tarawera eruption. It should not be nec- traveling lightly and "without prejudice." essary to describe at length this volcanic Lastly, and best of all, I journeyed alone. upheaval, with its attendant earthquakes In one of his essays Hazlitt observes: and electrical tornado, which ruined the "The soul of a journey is liberty, perfect small township and Maori settlement of liberty to think, feel, do just as you Te Wairoa and devastated the countryside please"; and he further remarks that to for miles around. This catastrophe of thoroughly enjoy a journey you must go 1886 is still fresh in the memory of many alone. New Zealanders, and such a calamity, in As a solitary wayfarer there is a de- a country which has scarcely cut its wis- lightful free-agency and lack of responsi- dom teeth, bulks largely in histori61 rec- bility. The cares and worries of your cus- ords. tomary life are left behind. You are done On our right lay the Forest Reserve, with the barriers of your everyday sur- where the Government has successfully roundings. You cast off the punctilious employed convicted criminals, who, instead chains of civilization. You do not wish of the tyranny of okum-picking and the your former existence recalled by a friend, treadmill, are engaged in planting young however dear. trees, which are transported all over the Amongst haphazard acquaintances there Colony, wherever afforestation is desirable. is less conventional restraint. No one ex- Clouds of steam from the geysers of pects you to be entertaining. You may be Whakarewarewa Valley arose every now morose, taciturn, garrulous as you will. and then. Our trail twisted upwards You do not look for orthodoxy in a among fern-clad slopes, straggling tutu THE MID-PACIFIC 455

bushes with their purple-berried pinnacles, were revealed. Before us stretched Lake and manuka scrub. Gradually our horses Tikitapu, the "Blue Lake" of Wonderland slackened speed, and we slowly continued and the sacred lake of the Maoris. the ascent in a cloud of dust. I had set out fully convinced that the Apropos of the dust, our Jehu, who had colored prints and photographs represent- as many authentic yarns as a disciple of ing this sheet of water were grossly exag- Izaak Walton (of whose followers there gerated in their tintage, and in this I was is no lack in Rotorua), informed us that agreeably disappointed. Such a beautiful on the previous day he had turned back, ultramarine it surely is impossible to find as he could only perceive four horses in elsewhere. The sky was blue, but the front of him, though he was positive he water was a shade bluer; and with its had yoked five. When he arrived at the lambent brightness and the ever-changing stables he discovered the missing leader ripples and shadows of its surface it formed concealed under a thick layer of dust! a unique and startling picture. The green- By the time we had reached the crest ness of its shelving banks accentuated its of the hill, however, we left most of the characteristic hue. The coloring varies dust behind. Behind us lay Rotorua, with with the weather, and increases or dimin- its boulevards of quivering gum trees and ishes in intensity as the sky is clear or its red-roofed houses; Rotorua Lake, on overcast, so that we could not have had whose expanded breast Mokoia Island— a better day on which to visit the lake. whither Hinemoa swam to her Maori This blue appearance is, I am told, due lover—an emerald patch on the watery mainly to the great depths of the water, azure; and behind the town itself Ngo- but surely the floating particles of some ngotaha reared its wooded summit. There form of igneous or volcanic earth are a was a bluish haze from a bush fire behind contributing factor. In the immediate the mountain, and ever and again we vicinity of the shore the water seemed par- caught a whiff of the incense of the burn- ticularly clear and colorless; but a few ing forest. On the right, Titokorangi, the yards outward there was a sudden de- "Sky-prop," wedged its fort-crowned peak marcation, and it became a lusty lapis into the blue dome. Leftwards the Wha- lazuli. However it would require a Tho- kapoungakau hills showed their lower reau to investigate this phenomenon and shoulders. do justice to such a Walden. At home the country groves are alive For about a mile we skirted the left with sweet-singing birds, and animal life shore of the lake, along a track bordered seems more visible and prominent—due, no with wattle, ti-tree and that bane of the doubt, to everyday contact and familiarity "cockatoo," the ubiquitous bramble, and with man—than in New Zealand ; but were just beginning to cast longing back- there seems more primordial secretiveness ward looks when we were suddenly con- and, to English eyes, something exotically fronted by Lake Rotokakahi, quite dis- strange in the rustic life of this country. tinct and only separated from Tikitapu There was an eloquent and alluring silence by a narrow ridge. This is the "Lake of about this way-back bushland. The cease- Shellfish," which formerly were found in less chirping of myriad cicadas was at one abundance on its shores, but is better with Nature's mood, and seemed to cry an known as the "Green Lake." . The green insistent hush to the listening green things. effect is scarcely so startling as the blue Suddenly, as if in response to the general of the other, nor does this waterway look expectancy, the liquid note of the parson so inviting and genial. There is some- bird sounded clear and full. thing forbidding and sinister about these At this stage, our horses suddenly reach- dull emerald waters. The shores are more ing the crest of an incline, new prospects barren and precipitous than those of its 456 THE MID-PACIFIC comrade, and, being a much larger body slaught of the eruption of twenty summers of water, it does not look so compact and ago, about this rural retreat. entire. We pulled up on the top of the We traveled in the print of olden wars, ridge and dazzled our eyes with alternate Yet all the land was green, glances at the lakes. A small stream, a And love we found and peace sturdy turquoise-green freshet from the Where fire and war had been. larger lake, connects the latter with Lake Tarawera, and accompanied us with its They pass and smile, the children of the insistent prattle till we reached our desti- sword ; nation, where it dashed over an overhang- No more the sword they wield. ing cliff, momentarily losing its character- And Oh, how deep the corn istic hue in the snowy foam of a cascade. Along the battlefield! We resumed our journey, passed several derelict buildings partly hidden by the Only instead of the "corn" we had trees, and after a two hours' drive drew poplars, elders and wattles, cherry and up with a flourish in front of the accom- peach groves. The ground all round Wai- modation house at Te Wairoa. roa is coated with a layer of volcanic ashes to about a foot in depth. This uppercrust The guide-books, with not altogether seems to have greatly increased the fer- laudable "Amurricanism," call this de- tility of the soil, as I am led to believe serted hamlet "the New Zealand Pom- vegetation has rapidly sprung Up, and is peii." Such an onerous appellation is de- more luxuriant than ever, since the catas- cidedly ambitious, and, moreover, rather trophe which sowed death through the misleading to the uninitiated few and to those who go a journey expecting to see smiling valley. We duly inscribed our names in the vis- something wonderful at the end of it. itors' book at the accommodation house, The destination is not, and should not be, adding remarks, appropriate or otherwise, the sole object of travel—unless, indeed, as to our impressions. you are a King's messenger or a dispatch- I cannot refrain from quoting some of rider—but the journey itself, with all its the observations inscribed in the list, as concomitant scenes and circumstances, not a few of them were decidedly quaint. should be the pilgrim's motive. In travel, Most of the humor, unconscious or other- as in life, there is the disappointing differ- wise, emanated from north of the Tweed. ence between realization and expectation, A man from Perthshire had evidently been "for to travel hopefully is a better thing impressed with the littleness of things tem- than to arrive," and the end of the jour- poral, for he exclaimed, "The works of ney is often the beginning of trouble. For the Lord are devilish !" A Glasgow myself, it was the merest whim that man triumphantly or derisively inquired, launched me Wairoawards, and I had set "Whaur's yer Coocaddens noo?" Such an out expecting nothing, and had been al- irrelevant question might be construed as ready pleasantly disappointed more than a reflection on the Lord Provost and Bail- once, so that I could not expect any fur- lies of the Clyde city, of which the Cow- ther surprises. I was not particularly im- caddens is a rather tumbledown and pressed or awe-inspired—I lack the rever- squalid quarter. ential faculty—by the ramshackle dwell- Opposite the hostelry is an ascending ing houses, so that the "Last Days of Pom- wooded slope. We proceeded upwards peii" effect was somewhat lost on me; but through the trees, following a winding there was a brooding Old World restful- path, past the half-buried church covered ness, in contrast with the devastating on- with lichens and mosses, past disrupted THE MID-PACIFIC 457 orchards of plum, apple and pear trees, manlike `Plumber' as myself. Besides, till we reached a small clearing at the both the delectable outside passenger and foot of a cliff, whence we got a magnifi- the "inner man" are calling out that it is cent view of Tarawera Lake and Moun- time for lunch. Let us conclude this exer- tain. On the other side of the volcano is cise, and with it our half-completed jour- all that is left of the world-renowned ney, with an extract from Domett's fine Pink and White Terraces. Through the poem on Mount Tarawera: vista of rustling poplar and' wattle trees we looked down on the smooth, expanded Its ramparts stretched along the sky; surface of Lake Tarawera, enclosed by One mighty mountain reared on high rugged, rocky ramparts, which thrust out- Far o'er the rest a level crest, wards into the blue waters. This body of With jutting rounded parapet water was hurled en masse heavenwards And rude rock-corbels rough beset, by the eruption, but looks placid and tran- Half-buried by time and tempests' fret.; quil enough now. At the end of the lake While smooth its slopes come sweeping rises Mount Tarawera—rhe holy hill of down the ancient Maoris—arid, blasted and por- From the abraded cornice brown. tentious. The mountain sides are seared with rifts and pitted with chasms and Above the heights soft clouds, a few, caves, fit haunts of the gnomes and trolls Cling here and there like floating flue: of ancient mythology. No wonder the Like helpless sea-birds, breeze-bereft, natives were afraid to explore this grim, Unmoving spread their pinions white gray, blighted volcano! Apart from its From jutting crag deep-bathed in light, tragic associations, the scene itself was very To slip away in snowy flight ; fine. Such a prospect cannot be done jus- Or closely crouched in shadowy cleft, tice to by such a literary tyro and uncrafts- Like lambing ewes the flock has left. 458 THE MID-PACIFIC

Hauling Him In.

Where the Start Was Made. After the Day's Hunt.

An Hawaiian Shark Hunt

By R. E. LAMBERT.

4` D0 YOU want to go?" sary tools and paraphernalia, harpoons, etc., "Where ?" with him. "Shark hunting." Harpoons! How tremendously thrilling "Sure thing! When?" that word had been in those younger days. And so it was with every one of the Those of us who had lived on farms or fifteen. Nearly all of us had recently ranches, or had had some'at to do with come from inland States on the mainland, horses, felt a little squeamishness at seeing and the announced shark-hunt seemed to the old dead horse at the end of a fifty- embody all the thrilling adventure stories foot tow line, as we steamed out of Hono- of our youngster days. lulu harbor from the midst of all the va- The boat was hired, the necessary dead rious shipping, from sampans to United horse purchased, and the time set for ten States battleships and submarines. To a. m. Lunches and lemons were generous think of using a dear, faithful old plug- and plentiful, and we were ready. Com- horse for bait to feed the much-feared fortable clothes was the order of the day. sharks just for a day's pleasure. But that The captain of the little vessel was a thought was quickly dismissed, for we were native shark hunter, and had all the neces- all brought suddenly face to face with the

459 460 THE MID-PACIFIC

stern realities of life. The little craft minutes later, very much refreshed. we re- rolled and rolled in the waves and swells, turned to the deck to bask in the sun. and Nemesis in the shape of mal de mer But to return to our hunt, and the vora- threatened to lie waiting just ahead for cious sea animals we were hunting. It one or another or all of us every moment wasn't long before we spotted one, and of the day. Later, when we had time and after a few moments, two more, cavorting inclination to philosophise, we might have around our bait. . reasoned it out in this wise: If the gelding For the reason, perhaps, that other feed- alive could have been consulted just before ing off Honolulu harbor had been good his death, or if the spirit of the dead the past few days, or for whatever reason horse (do dead horses have spirits, I won- it was, the fact remained that our trio of der?) had been present, wouldn't he have blue-nosed friends were content to swim said that such an end as we were provid- around and under that carcass for, it - ing for him was just the best and most seemed to us, the remainder of the day, heroic finish he could have asked for him- never once biting into it. Our skipper self—a fitting romantic close to a life that tried to coax them nearer by hauling in had early been robbed of its virility in the close to the boat; also he tried to inveigle economic interests of a commercial world, them into dining on the repast we had and condemned to a thirty-year round of prepared for them by hacking the side of hard labor? I think so. I know I would the horse most viciously, the blood coloring in his place. the water. But all to no purpose seem- That was why a little later, when I saw ignly. the skipper haul the carcass close in and As we were about to return to port, dis- open a large gash in the abdomen with a couraged at our lack of success, our long big jagged weapon, so as to let the blood day's patience was rewarded, and every out to attract the bloodthirsty sharks a nerve began to tingle. The original trio mile or so away, I had only a sportsman's of sharks has disappeared, and a new one scientific interest in the proceeding, with appeared on the scene. no trace of regret. And a good friend of From a distance the presence of the mon- mine is a humane officer, too. ster in the rather ruffled water was be- The blood-letting done, we headed out trayed by a yellowish-green, oblong, shad- for the open sea. A rather pathetic inci- ow-like line swimming below the surface. dent occurred just then, however. The We let the creature swim about to his captain took us over to the two buoys heart's content. After hovering near the which mark the resting place of the ill- ' carcass for a few minutes, he took courage fated submarine "F-4," the coffin of twen- and bit a large piece of the carcass off. ty-one of America's brave sea warriors, The sharks are voracious creatures and friends of ten weeks ago. There between endeavor to take large chunks of meat at those buoys we could dimly see the vessel a gulp. This brings them close to the sur- as she lay in her forty feet of water, where face, and then the fun begins. After a she had been lifted and dragged by the short interval the shark took a second devoted engineers and heroic divers and mouthful, and then a third. Meanwhile helpers belonging to their beloved naval we were drawing the bait nearer. Our service. skipper took up a position on the covered As a means of relieving the depression part of the boat, harpoon in hand, ready we felt at the sight, several of us had our to thrust. Our shark again approached clothes off, ready for a plunge in the in- the bait; we could now see every move- viting blue water as soon as we stopped ment of his quite distinctly. He seemed to the engine and began to drift. Twenty be madly hungry—his one thought to eat- THE MID-PACIFIC 461 and we were able to draw the bait almost other with indistinct stripes, like a tiger. up to the boat. The infuriated monster The first one proved to be the largest, was now biting away vigorously and vora- about nine feet long, the others slightly ciously, within reach of our boat, and as over eight feet in length. The jaws were he rose to the surface and opened his jaws full of wonderful teeth, long and as sharp for a gulp, the old skipper drove the har- as a needle, and these we extracted as sou- poon into his body. The shark dove and venirs. There are parts of the shark which struck out aimlessly and swiftly, but our -r are edible, and we sold the three carcasses staunch little craft was able to withstand' to a Japanese. The skin was as rough as a his rushes, and finally he came to the sur- horseshoer's rasp, and I don't think of any face exhausted. . An expansive bullet commercial value. ended his existence, and there was a great Shark hunting is mentally and physically relaxation of nerves aboard the launch. exhausting, and when we reached shore we Our good luck did not end with one were wrecks in mind and body, but in a shark. Three more met their fate by the dazed sort of way were proud of the suc- same method, and were fastened to the cess of our first shark hunt. One cannot boat. We towed them into the harbor forget the thrill of it, and before long we and hoisted them up to a beam and got will again be out in the blue water, wait- our cameras out. Three of the creatures ing breathlessly for the long green mon- were of a yellowish-green color, and the ster to come within reach of the harpoon.

Make! 462 THE MID-PACIFIC Industrial Development of the Phillippines

By THE HON. JUAN SUMULONG. (Philippine Commissioner.)

PAIN gave the Filipinos an ample When the United States came to the education—sufficiently ample under Philippines, among other problems, they S a colonial form of government—in found a field well suited to engage their almost all branches of the so-called liberal energies in the need of impressing upon arts and professions. She did not, on the the Filipinos that, in a substantial and true other hand, give the same attention to the civilization, material progress should go industrial progress of the country and its hand in hand with intellectual culture. inhabitants. In justice it must be said, To succeed in such an undertaking is, on however, that this failure was not the re- the one hand, to assure the future pros- sult of a selfish colonial mercantile policy, perity of the entire people, and, on the according to which colonizing countries other, to complete the work of Spain in must at all costs hinder the development the Philippines. of industries, especially of manufacturing The first step in this important cam- industries in the colonies, in order to com- paign was taken in the public schools, by pel them to buy what they need in the sov- making industrial education a part of the ereign country. There were other reasons curriculum. Whatever be the degree of for this failure, and it is unnecessary, as success resulting from this innovation, we far as the purpose of these lines is con- may be sure that the Filipinos of the rising cerned, to mention them here. generation will be scientifically better

463 464 THE MID-PACIFIC equipped than their predecessors to. give specie. Such capital is taken from its a vigorous impetus to the industrial de- hiding place to be used only in usurious velopment of their country. So much for loans or other transactions of that kidney. the future. A publicist who is an authority on India Several times it has been suggested that says that that country possesses fabulous Filipino manufacturers of the same line wealth in hidden treasure, and remarks of goods who have the money to do it that if these riches were to be employed should send, at their expense, experienced in a progressive and enterprising spirit men in their line to foreign countries where they would bring about results which similar or identical goods are manufac- would be incalculable as regards the im- tured, in order that they might quickly provement of the economic, political and assimilate more advanced and economical social conditions of that people. Those methods. It must be acknowledged, how- Filipinos who are ambitious to have a gov- ever, with respect to this plan, that even ernment of their own should understand the relatively small expenditure that it that, according to the ideas that are com- would entail would probably be beyond monly accepted among civilized nations, the reach of household industries of very nothing would justify such an ambition limited means. more than their taking an active and a The need of capital, be it Filipino or principal part in the economic progress of foreign, to develop these manufactures on their native land. a larger scale, is unquestionable. Only In the association of foreign and Fili- disposing of larger amounts of capital can pino capitalists it may frequently happen they be placed 'abreast of the times and that there will be an exchange of reciprocal meet the demands of the exacting modern advantages. The former contribute to the consumer. success of the business their greater experi- The button making business is note- ence in the management of complicated en- worthy in that it has been established with terprises, and the latter can exert their in- capital subscribed partly by Filipinos and fluence to have the business patronized by partly by foreigners. The example of Filipinos, who will not fail to do so, these Filipinos, who show their broad- knowing that Filipino capital is interested mindedness in associating themselves with therein. foreign capitalists, and who have invested It would be better, if it were possible, their money in a productive industry in- to have Filipino capital interested in all stead of having it lie idle and unemployed, of the industries established in this coun- thus helping the industrial development of try; but if this is not practical:either be- their country at the same time that they cause the amount of Filipino capital is make a profit for themselves, is worthy of limited, or for any other causes, then this being imitated by others of their country- is no reason for failing to encourage for- men. A considerable amount of capital, eign capital to come to the Philippines to in large and small amounts, is to be found develop new industries. There is an al- in the Philippines, which is entirely un- most unlimited field that the foreign cap- productive. This money is kept with the italist could work with profit to himself greatest secrecy by its owners; some of it and to the country. We will mention, for is even hidden underground, and all of it example, the possible extension of the fish- is kept out of circulation and of participa- ing business, and the consequent establish- tion in useful undertakings, in a mistaken ment of the fish-canning industry; the and exaggerated spirit of conservation, or manufacture of paper, the raw material on account of the excessive importance at- being here in great abundance; the canning tributed to the possession of wealth in on a large scale of our numerous and de- THE MID -PACIFIC 465

licious fruits; the manufacture of glass; farmers, in the most practical manner pos- the establishment of sugar refineries, etc., sible, to cultivate not one crop, but several. etc. The introduction of these industries, Some of these crops should be of such even without Filipino capital, would re- nature as not to require the cooperation dound greatly to the benefit of the local of work-cattle, especially in those localities consumer. .or regions where the only cultivation, or In agriculture, the most important in- the greater part of it, is done with the help dustry and the principal source of wealth of these animals, and a diversity of crops in the Philippines, there are also some is least known. Government aid will be things which demand urgent attention. specially necessary in order to determine, Much has been said and written, even to by the employment of competent persons, the extent of exhausting the subject, upon what sort of crops are most suitable in cer- the necessity of using modern implements, tain localities or regions, and whether the to apply more advanced, more scientific and products obtained would find a market in more economical methods in the cultiva- this country or abroad. As the people for tion of the soil, in order to increase the whose benefit these reforms are recom- yield of grain and prevent unnecessary mended will be more likely to be influ- waste. But not much attention has been enced by ocular demonstrations than by given to the small farmer, who is unable mere preaching, the establishment of ag- to buy modern agricultural implements, ricultural experimental stations, at suit- who, because of ignorance or lack of able places where crop experiments can be money, cannot apply the latest and most carried on, would probably be more effect- scientific methods of cultivation. These ive than any other measures tending to per- small farmers have less initiative than large suade farmers to accept the system of property owners, and are therefore seldom diversified culture. heard from ; but just the same they deserve The Filipino farmer, well informed and sympathy and attention. properly led, under favorable circumstances, Such small farmers are greatly in the has provel to be a powerful factor in the majority. They will be unable to get out general progress of the country, and there of their present difficulties without the aid is no reason to fear that he will not continue of the Government, for, unlike the large to be so in the future. The alleged indif- agriculturists, they lack great initiative, as ference or inaction which many people at- has already been said, have less knowledge, tribute to him is, in many cases, the result if any at all, and, lastly, have less money of a lack of proper orientation, of the and less resources. Generally, they only natural paralysis brought about by difficult know one kind of cultivation, which, in conditions entirely new to him, and some- the majority of cases, requires the indis- times they are the result of disappointment pensable help of the carabao, the work- consequent upon his having attempted to animal mostly used in the Philippines. As produce something on soil that was unsuit- a result of the many epizootics many of able or something for which there was no these small farmers have lost their cattle market or demand, and he has been left and are in consequence thereof as if para- without money or courage to make a new lyzed, without knowing what to do or attempt. Let us encourage him and aid which way to turn, as they have not been him to the extent to which he and all accustomed to cultivate anything without others in his condition are entitled to ex- the help of said animals. pect, and after this it will be time for us It is necessary to persuade these small to pass final judgment upon him.

5-M.P. 466 THE MID-PACIFIC

In the United States of Columbia railway travel is often above the clouds, and here the quaint little engines and the strange Indian people help to make the primitive surroundings picturesque in the extreme. e• An Engineer on the West Coast of Colombia

By FRANK R. WADLEIGH.

N THE summer of 1911 Mr. Frank steamships that stop here lie about a mile R. Wadleigh, general manager of from shore, everything being handled in I the Chesapeake and Ohio Coal and small boats, canoes and lighters. The rise Coke Company, made a special trip to the and fall of the tide is about fifteen feet, and west coast of Colombia, with a view of in- the approach channel at low tide is rather vestigating its coal resources. The com- narrow. The Cauca Railroad has its ter- prehensive report he made of his experi- minus here, and a short pier has been built ence contains much information as well as for its use. descriptions of the country through which Caldas has an elevation of 3,000 feet his journey carried him. His report fol- above sea level, and the pass over the lows: mountains is about 6,000 feet at its maxi- Buenaventura is built on an island, most mum elevation. The line as being built of it a swamp originally, lying about eight is a splendid example of mountain engineer- miles from the sea, at the head of the bay ing location. It is about three and one- and at the mouth of the Dagua River, half per cent, rising about 600 meters in having a population of about 2,000. The twenty-seven kilometers, with numerous harbor has great possibilities and could curves and tunnels and heavy fills ; very easily be made an excellent one with a little rock work is met with until the little dredging. There are no docks ex- summit is reached, where mostly sand- cept for small boats or lighters, and the stone is encountered. After reaching the

•167 468 THE MID-PACIFIC summit the proposed line runs down the Cali coal deposits, arrangements- were made eastern slope of the mountains with a com- to carry on explorations along the west paratively easy grade to the Cauca Valley coast. For this purpose a schooner was and then south to Cali, the total distance engaged, and the disappointing features of from Buenaventura being about 166 kil- the trip and the hardships endured by the ometers. party began. From Caldas the journey was continued Our two-masted schooner, the Anais, on horses and mules, the partly completed twenty-five feet long and ten feet beam, grading of the railway being followed to with a crew of three, two black boys and the end and then a crosscut being taken a Cholo Indian, and our cook, a Jamaica to get into the old Cali road. negro, was well filled up with ourselves This is the old road built by the Gov- and baggage. We managed to get all of ernment, and is kept in very fair condi- the latter stowed below, part amidships tion, all of the traffic being by horses and where the crew stayed and part in the mules, tolls being charged on the mule little cabin in the stern, which was seven trains, of which we met a number. Over by seven by four feet two inches maxi- this road goes all of the merchandise in mum, with narrow wooden bunks on each and out of the great Cauca Valley to the side, barely wide enough for one person, coast, the outbound freight consisting and the whole decidedly crowded with our mainly of hides, sugar and cocoa. small baggage. It was in this vessel that Keeping up the valley nearly up to its we had determined to sail the whole way head, we began the ascent of the Cordille- to Panama, a distance of 410 miles, with- ras just beyond the little town of Carmen. out returning to Buenaventura, as we were The climb took just an hour of steady advised that the prevailing winds were all going, some of it quite steep, with fine in that direction. views of the valley toward the northwest. The coast was generally low for the first The soil up to the summit was still the two days, the highest ground being some red clay, with very little rock formation distance in the interior, with an occasional in sight until near the top, where heavy peak showing probably 3,000 to 4,000 feet beds of soft gray and brown sandstone ap- high. On the morning of the 19th we peared. reached the mouth of the Baudo River, and On the summit, 6,000 feet elevation, is found a little settlement called Pizarro, the dividing watershed, the water flowing consisting of about fifteen houses on the west to the Dagua and Pacific and east to north side of the river, just inside, and the Magdalena and Atlantic. We stopped anchored there at 2:30 p. m., going ashore to rest before starting down the three in our dugout. All of the inhabitants were hours' descent to Cali; through the trees blacks with one exception, a middle-aged could be seen the great valley of the Cauca, German, Herr Wiedermann, who was very 3,000 feet below. The road wound down hospitable and courteous and gave us con- the mountain side and over the foothills siderable information. He was the licensed and flank of the mountain. With the val- tax collector for that district. We spent ley coming more and more into view, and the night on shore and the next morning the great line of the central Cordilleras, hired, a canoe with two blacks to paddle 15,000 to 18,000 feet high, gradually com- and ascended the river for about three ing into sight as the sun sank and the miles, looking for evidence of coal. We clouds lifted or disappeared, the whole found no traces, nor could we get any made one of the most glorious views in reliable information as to the existence of the world. coal deposits in this region, and at 5 :30 After completing investigations of the the next morning resumed our journey. THE MID-PACIFIC 469

The sunrise was magnificent, and there mand for railroad work), caracoli, ahi, was a fine view of the coast to the north cedar, jigua negro, etc. We saw a dug- as far as Cape Corrientes and of the Baudo out of four feet beam and twenty-five feet Mountains and Anana Peaks. From the long of caracoli, and a smaller canoe be- Baudo north the coast line was much more ing cut out of ahi, a wood resembling our abrupt, the hills rising sheer out of the cedar, but harder and with a beautiful sea in several places and wooded down to grain. the water's edge. There is no question about the market With a stiff breeze behind us, we passed for the coal, both north and south. Fur- the southernmost point of the Cape by five ther prospecting would have to be done o'clock p. m. and anchored for the night to discover how much coal is available and behind the northern point in a quiet little whether the beds do or do not lie under cove behind two small islands and near the floor of the Cauca Valley as well as the little village of Arrusi. From here the hills. If coal is found in sufficient we proceeded northward the next morn- quantity there is no doubt in my opinion ing, keeping close to the shore. The sweep that the investment would pay. of the coast to the north could be seen dis- tinctly, the mountains appearing higher and Regarding the timber, it is safe to say closer to the water, a long range running that there is a large amount of it avail- parallel to the coast and about six or eight able and valuable, both on the concession miles inland. The mouth of the Coqui and to the north of it. For this there is River was reached by noon, and we an- also an assured market. In order, how- chored a short distance from shore in the ever, to go into this business concessions river. Going ashore we found the "oldest would have to be obtained at once. There inhabitant," an old white-haired negro, are also other valuable vegetable products who said that there was coal up the river, on the concession—ivory nuts, vanilla, rub- but a long distance away, also fine timber ber, cinchona, etc.—and anything could be —guayacan (a lignuni-vitae much in de- grown there. 470 THE MID-PACIFIC

,. • A Tea Garden in Honolulu.

The Japanese in Hawaii

By S. SHEBA. (Editor Hawaii Shinpo.)

FIND it quite a task to tell anew Sugar is the mainstay, the source of I the oft-repeated story of what the prosperity of the Territory; therefore we Japanese have done and are doing in can say that the Japanese have contributed Hawaii, which subject has been exploited largely to the welfare of the Islands and by different people on various occasions. to the pockets of the people directly and The facts are before our eyes and are indirectly, and that fact is never disputed. known to everybody. We Japanese have not been a menace to In the sugar industry, which is the main- Hawaii, but have proved to be benefactors. stay of the Islands, the Japanese have from We are very proud of this fact. the beginning shown more activity than In 1868 the first group of forty-eight any other race, though their share has Japanese contract laborers was brought to been confined to the supply of labor. The Hawaii, and since that time the number Japanese are predominant in plantation has gradually and steadily increased until work even today, and that tends to dem- today we number in the neighborhood of onstrate the theory of the survival of the 90,000, it having been estimated authen- fittest. In spite of the importation of a tically at 89,715 in June, 1914. large number of other races, we still hold However, the condition of the Japanese our stronghold. laborers under the contract labor system

471 472 THE MID -PACIFIC was not very much better than actual It was after the annexation that the slavery, and these conditions prevailed until Japanese began to show their true worth the annexation of the Islands to the United and activity in various directions. States of America. The number of Japanese employed on We owe much to the reign of King sugar plantations has been decreasing for the Kamehameha V, during whose time a new past several years, but there were 24,000 field of activity was offered to us, and to out of the total of 45,000 plantation hands, the Hawaiian people, who allowed us to according to the statistics of 1913. come and share their happiness—the hap- In the coffee industry, also, there are 689 piness and the privilege of enjoying life Japanese families in the Kona district, and in this earthly Paradise. they represent 80 per cent of the entire number of persons engaged in coffee culti- We owe much more to Uncle S'am, who vation. Teh area occupied by them com- by stretching out his beneficent hands re- prises 5154 acres. moved all restrictions from the liberty of In the pineapple cultivation, Japanese men, and placed us on a basis of equality labor again predominates in number, and the with all the rest of God's children. independent Japanese planters control nearly Through the emancipation (which we call 5000 acres on the Island of Oahu, repre- the abrogation of the contract system) the senting an investment of $559,890, while Japanese emerged from the shade of mon- on Maui the Japanese maintain their own archical barbarism into the sunshine of true mill. The total pineapple product of the democratic civilization. Japanese farmers aggregates nearly 680,000 Until the annexation of Hawaii the cases a year. Japanese had performed their work in sub- The Japanese control the fishing industry mission, in fear of jail and fine. They of the Territory, particularly that of deep- were "wikiwikied," so to say, and were sea fishing. A lttle more than 300 Japanese told to "go ahead like steam" by ignorant are engaged in fishing on Oahu, and they lunas (foremen) , who did not know own about eighty gasoline sampans, while enough to make a distinction between on other Islands there may be counted one- human beings and lower animals. Under half that number, more or less. such conditions no one can wonder that A number of Japanese are also engaged they had not fully manifested their effi- in poultry raising, in bee culture and in truck farming. cient, initiative and ingenious faculties. I remember an article in one of the We can count a score of fairly good-sized English papers in those early days which corporations among us, such as: advocated the importation of African apes The Pacific Bank, with $200,000 to replace Japanese plantation laborers. captalization. The Honolulu Sake Brewery, with We may laugh at such an absurdity now, but then the plantation field labor was $60,000. The Japanese Rice Mill, with $80,- considered nothing but mere mechanical 000. work, requiring no brains. They were The Hawaii Seishu Kaisha, with given no chance to exercise any latent brain power they may have possessed, and the $40,000. The Hilo Seishu Kaisha, with $30,- idea grew that they had no mental ability. I presume that there would have been 000. The Maui Pineapple Company, with enough monkeys in Hawaii to consume all $40,000. the surplus pineapple crops, if they were imported, and no one would lament the The Hawaii Drug Company, with overproduction and the want of markets. $25,000. THE MID -PACIFIC 473

The Hawaii Soy Manufacturing ers, 10; geisha girls, 25; family workers, Company, with $22,000. 1632; other miscellaneous workers, 1632; The American Soy Factory, with postoffice employees, 5 ; Shinto priests, 5; $20,000. chauffeurs, 20; miscellaneous works, 389. The Pacific Sodawater Company, The real and personal property owned with $20,000. by the Japanese aggregated $3,140,825 in The Fuji Hat Company, with $12,- value in 1913. 500. The best informed Japanese merchant Besides, there are the Hawaii Fishery in Hawaii believes that there are : Company, Pacific Fishing Company, Hilo Four stores and corporations doing an Fishing Company, Hilo Rice Refinery, Star annual business ranging from $150,000 to Macaroni Company, Hinode Macaroni $600,000. Company, Hawaii Macaroni Company, Four stores and corporations doing an Honolulu Soy Factory and the Sunrise annual business ranging from $300,000 to Sodawater Company, with capitals rang- $500,000. ing from $10,000 to $20,000. Five stores and corporations doing an According to the professional and busi- annual business ranging from $150,000 to ness classification published a few years $300,000. ago in the Hawaiian Japanese Annual, Thirty stores and corporations doing an published by the Hawaii Shinpo, the annual business ranging from $50,000 to Japanese of Honolulu were classified as $100,000. follows, taking the family as a unit: The imports from Japan during the Bank employees, 30; physicians, 11; year ending June 30th, 1914, totaled importers and miscellaneous merchants, $2,515,463, and the exports $20,491. 135; liquor stores, 12; soy dealers, 18; In our social, commercial and educa- hotels, 12; tea-houses and restaurants, 30; tional work we maintain a Commercial druggists, 17; watchmakers, 18; confec- Museum, a Merchants' Association, a tioners, 90; second-hand goods dealers, 36; Hotelmen's Union, a BeneVolent Society barbers, 125 ; contractors, 22 ; tailors, 105; and a Charity Hospital, two higher educa- clothes cleaning and dyeing, 50; dealers in tional institutions besides numerous schools tofu, 28.; billiard table owners, 30; fuel of language, three daily newspapers in Ho- dealers, 28; hack drivers, 122; dealers in nolulu, three semi- weeklies on the Island bicycles, 12; photographers, 17; hardware of Hawaii, one weekly each on the Islands stores, 19 ; tenement house owners, 42; of Kauai and Maui, and seven mqnthly dairies, 10; vegetable vendors, 98; baths, periodicals. 23 ; employees of newspaper offices, 111; The above figures and statements do not corporation employees, 407; school teachers, fail to convince you, I hope, that there is 26; preachers, 8; priests, 7; interpreters, a tendency among the Japanese of the Ter- 30; hog and poultry raisers, 144; hat ritory to settle and establish themselves stores, 47; carpenters, 295 ; blacksmiths, permanently in Hawaii, which is strongly 40; masons, 62 ; painters, 52; fishermen, urged by the leading Japanese and the 177; honey bee culture, 9; macaroni man- press, and I do not doubt that in the ufacturers, 32; restaurant cooks, 20; sail- course of years the Japanese as a whole ors, 80; employment offices, 10; fruit and will amalgamate with other predominating flower raisers, 25 ; pineapple growers, 30; races in a community of interest, the spirit fish vendors, 35 ; hack owners, 12; butch- of whch must be thoroughly American. 474 THE MID-PACIFIC

In Honolulu are the largest and most powerful wireless stations in the world. From the strands of copper, elevted three hundred feet or more in the air, are wafted the messages that are caught in Washington, in Japan and in Australia. The Lorraine's S O S

By BLAINE McLEAN. •

HARLOTTE SYLVESTER was been constant companions and sweethearts. lonely. Five days had passed He worked at the wireless station, and C since her quarrel with Glenn, when he was on duty at night hardly an without . a word from him. Besides being evening passed by that she did not visit lonely, she was also becoming uneasy, as him and remain several hours. She soon she had expected him to call or show some became interested in wireless, and under signs of relenting long before this. his instruction, in a short time developed It was on the steamer while returning into a very proficient operator, and he to Sault Ste. Marie, from a visit in Chi- would occasionally let her exchange mes- cago, that she met him. Love at first sages with ships at sea. sight was the result. During his two The Sylvesters were of Virginia stock, years' stay in Sault Ste. Marie, they had and Charlotte was an excellent type of

475 476 THE MID- PACIFIC that proud and sensitive race, twenty years "He's goine away," answered Mrs. old, rather tall, of well-formed figure, ex- Wilson. cellent, softly-lined features, big gray eyes "Gone?" repeated Charlotte, paling per- and a wealth of spun-gold hair. She was ceptibly. of an adventurous, good-natured and fear- "Yes," replied Mrs. Wilson. "He left less disposition, very determined in what- last Monday afternoon. He wouldn't say ever she set out , to do. Consequently where he was going or why—said he when she and Glenn quarrelled, pride for- wanted to forget. I was so sorry to see bade any yielding on her part. He was him go; he was such a fine boy and I three years- her senior, tall and athletic- loved him as if he were my own son." looking, and a gallant and light-hearted Charlotte, pale-faced and trembling, lover, but at the same time of a serious said a hurried good-bye to Mrs. Wilson, and determined nature, which stamped hung up the receiver and rushed out into him as one bound to succeed, irrespective her mother's arms, exclaiming frantically: of the obstacles encountered. "He's gone, mother! Mrs. Wilson says "Where in the world is Glenn keeping he has gone away." himself? He hasn't been down here for "Gone?" repeated her mother, surprised five days," said her mother, as she came and startled. in to dinner. "Yes, mamma, gone—gone without even "Oh, we had a foolish little quarrel, a word to let me know where. Oh ! what mother. I was a little hasty, but I'm shall I do?" she cried despairingly, as she sorry now," replied Charlotte. "I'm go- buried her face in her mother's breast and ing to phone him, after dinner, and ask clung to her. him to come down." "Do?" said her mother, with a slight "What!" said her mother, with a tone degree of sternness. "My child, I don't of surprise in her voice; "a quarrel so soon see that you can do anything. If you after your engagement? Why dear—" two have been foolish, you will have to "Don't worry, mamma," returned Char- stand the consequences, but I am sorry, lotte, interrupting her. "Everything will dear, and I hope everything will turn out be 0 K as soon as I get him on the phone all right. Let this be a lesson to you, —he'll be down here before you know it." not to be so headstrong in the future." Mrs. Sylvester liked Glenn and did not approve of her daughter's stubbornness. "Pity any small ship that's out in this She, however, attributed their estrange- storm tonight," said Glenn Carroll, as he ment to the foolish little quarrels that strained his ears to copy the news which lovers so frequently have and gave the was being sent out by the station in Hono- matter no further thought, believing mat- lulu, and clung to his chair, the wind ters would be amicably settled over the whistling outside of the wireless office and telephone. the giant liner rolling and trembling from After finishing her dinner, Charlotte the angry and mountainous seas, which went to the telephone and rang up Mrs. were beating mercilessly against her sides, Wilson's, where Glenn roomed. as she lay hove to, in the path of a howl- "Hello, Mrs. Wilson," she said, recog- ing North Pacific gale. nizing her voice. "Is Glenn in?" It was on the fifth day out that the "Flow- "Hasn't he told you?" replied Mrs. ery Kingdom," a large trans-Pacific liner, Wilson, surprised. bound from Yokohama for San Francisco, "No. What?" inquired Charlotte, be- via Honolulu, with one of the largest car- coming somewhat nervous and pressing the goes and passenger lists that ever left the receiver close to her ear. Orient, ran into the storm. Fine weather THE MID-PACIFIC 477

had prevailed until the morning of the poured down the deck ventilators, inun- fifth day, when a stiff breeze was encoun- dating a section of the steerage quarters tered, which steadily increased in fury dur- and causing a panic among hundreds of ing the day. The liner, however, being a terrified Asiatic passengers. splendid twin-screw vessel of twenty-seven The ship listed far to starboard, trem- thousand tons displacement, and deeply bling from stem to stern under the tre- laden, the wind on her port quarter from mendous shock, and as if in a rage, raised the northwest was helping her along, and her head high into the air. The Captain, although the seas were still running high, thinking the big doors leading to the saloon she was making good weather of it. had been stove in, stopped the engines and Throughout the night the force of the brought her head around to windward, as wind continued to increase, and by the she again went down into the trough of morning of the sixth day it was a howling the sea. Before she could rise to meet it, gale. The old Chinese sailors in the fore- another great roller, towering high up- castle said it was the highest sea they had wards, hurled a mountain of green water ever seen on the Pacific. The great bil- over her head, which broke into a foaming lows, like long ranges of hills, with break- torrent as the ship righted herself and lay ing, foaming crests, came racing after each hove to. other. across the vast expanse, and between It was shortly after the station in Hono- each of these lines of foam-crested moun- lulu finished sending and the vessel hove tains lay a deep gulf, into which the vessel to, when a ship, which seemed to Glenn would drop, as the seas ran from under to be only a short distance away, com- her, giving one the feeling that he was menced to send out 5-0-S in rapid suc- sliding into the great depths to be swal- cession. He became slightly excited for lowed by the next monster roller, which a moment, but controlling himself, rang was following closely in its wake, hissing for the power, and almost as soon as the and roaring with irresistible force. The ship finished calling answered her. The huge vessel, however, was a marvel of sea- ship replied immediately and said : "Give worthiness, and under the direction of her this message to your Captain, quick." skillful skipper held steadily on her course, Clasping the receivers tightly to his ears and only at rare intervals would one of and breathing somewhat rapidly, he copied these giant waves succeed in breaking over the following message: her decks. At nine o'clock that night one caught "Commander, 'Flowery Kingdom': her just as she went down into a trough, "Yacht 'Lorraine,' Yokohama for Ho- and a huge, mountainous comber, which nolulu, present position Lat. — Long. —. dashed higher than the bridge, broke fair Propeller shaft broken. Heavy gale now amidships with a deafening roar. The on and -danger of foundering. Forty souls terrific impact of the wave smashed the aboard. Rush assistance. telegraph-casings on the bridge; a section "MORTON, Commander." of the starboard rail was torn away; three Quickly giving his "0 K" for the mes- deadlights were stove in, and life-rafts and sage, he ran to the Captain's room. preservers were torn from their fastenings "Come in," said the Captain, in a as if they had been held by threads. A brusque manner, in answer to his knock. piano which was securely lashed to the promenade deck was dashed from its lash- "What is it, 'Sparks'?" he inquired, as ings and hurled across the deck as though Glenn entered. it was a cracker-box. The after wheel- "Just received an S-0-S, sir." house was wrecked, and tons of water "An S-O-S ?" shouted the Captain, ris- 478 THE MID-PACIFIC ing from his chair and coming towards deep in the water; otherwise the pitching him. "Who from?" of the vessel would have lifted her pro- "It's from the yacht 'Lorraine,' sir," re- peller blades clear of the water, causing plied Glenn, handing him the message. the powerful engines to race, and in addi- The Captain scanned the message, and tion to cutting down the speed consider- as he finished reading it pressed a bell- ably, would very likely have torn them button, and turning to Glenn, said: "Tell from their foundations. them we are coming as fast as we can The sea was still running high, and the and give them this position. Better try big ship, as she tore madly ahead, shiv- and get the names of all on board and ered and staggered from the terrific bat- keep in communication with her—she's tering of the waves. Her decks were all liable to go down any minute." awash, and the spray, as it dashed over "All right, sir," Glenn answered, leay. the bow, rained down on her bridge in ing the room just as a bellboy appeared in showers. Half the time she looked like answer to the Captain's summons, to whom a submarine. he said: "Take this to the chief engineer," It was 11:30 p. m. when Glenn took handing him a note. Then he proceeded his report down to the Captain. to figure the distanec he was from the "What news, 'Sparks'?" said the Cap- yacht. tain, as he entered. "What's the row, Captain?" boomed "I've got a brief account of the acci- the big, good-natured chief, as he entered dent, sir; also a list of all on board," he a few moments later. replied, handing him the message. "Just got an S-O-S from a yacht about It seemed that the yacht had been two two hundred miles ahead," the Captain days ahead of the "Flowery Kingdom," answered. "Propeller shaft broken and on about the same course, and had been danger of foundering; forty people aboard. hove to for the last thirty hours, but had We must get to her as fast as possible. to keep her engines working to hold her With a sea running like this, she's liable head to the sea. The racing of the en- to break up at any time. Pile in the coal, gines when the screw was lifted out of chief, and get every turn out of the en- the water by the high seas had broken gines you can." her propeller shaft. The yacht then being "All right, Captain," the chief replied in a helpless condition, had wallowed in excitedly and hurrying towards the door. the trough of the sea. Great quantities "I'll go down and put on double shifts of water breaking over her, smashed her in the fireroom, cut in the two extra boil- lifeboats, a section of the bridge, and stove ers and open her up." in a number of ports. The saloon, galley After the chief engineer had left, the and passengers' quarters were flooded and Captain sent for the chief officer, and after badly wrecked. The whole party were telling him about the S-O-S message, di- in a panic. A sea-anchor had been thrown rected him to order all the passengers off out as soon as possible, which relieved the the decks, close all ports tightly, make tem- situation considerably, but heavy seas still porary repairs to the broken deadlights continued to go over her. The wind had and swing the mouths of the ventilators subsided greatly, and they thought she away from the wind. would be able to ride it out if the weather The Captain then went to the bridge, continued to improve. laid his course straight for the yacht, and The Captain, after reading the account signalled the engine-room for full speed and scanning the names of those aboard, ahead. said to Glenn: " see the wireless operator It was fortunate that the vessel was so is a woman—a Miss Slyvester. I wonder THE MID-PACIFIC 479

how they happened to have a woman on higher than the one we went through today, the job ?" and I guess if that crowd gets out of this "I'm sure I don't know, sir," replied alive they will confine their yacht cruising Glenn, a puzzled expression coming over to some locality where there is not quite his face. so much water, and take passage on a real As he went back to the wireless room ship the next time they want to cross the he was saying to himself : "Now, what could ocean. I'll go down and have a little have brought her out as operator on that look around and turn in." yacht? It must be her. It isn't likely "All right, chief," said the Captain. that another woman by the same name "She seems to be moving as fast as we would know anything about wireless. I can drive her through this sea. I'll go wonder what she thinks of me for going up on the bridge and see how the weather away as I did and never letting her know looks." what became of me? It was a foolish Morning dawned with considerable im- trick to have done. If I hadn't run away provement in the weather. The sky was in such a hurry, things would have turned clearing, but the sea was still rough, and out 0 K. Three years is a long time, long, heavy swells were running. and now she may love some one else." At eight o'clock the Captain sent his The thought gave him a rather unpleas- position to the yacht and received theirs ant feeling. "Good God !" he stammered in return, together with the report that impulsively to himself, "what if she does? they were riding fairly easy, but that no Why the old feeling is boiling up in me one had slept for the past two days and stronger than ever, and I am as shaky as had had but little food, due to the flooded if I saw myself being brought before the galley; all hands being very much ex- judgment seat and knew I was lost. I've hausted, especially the ladies of the party. got to pull myself together somehow—she When the Captain had figured the dis- doesn't know I'm here. She may have tance yet to go before reaching the yacht, ceased to think of me long ago. Anyway, he asked the chief officer what he thought I've got to keep a hand on myself until abount launching a lifeboat. I find out." "I think it would be very dangerous," "Well, chief, how is she doing?" in- he replied. "With a sea running like this quired the Captain, addressing the chief it would be quite impossible to get her engineer, who entered shortly after Glenn away from the ship's side. Somebody's departed. apt to be drowned." "Fine," he replied. "She's turning up "Yes," returned the Captain, "I think eighty revolutions." so myself. If they are safe from founder- "Good," said the Captain. "We're ing, I think it would be best to stand by making pretty good time now. The ba- until the sea goes down a little, but I rometer is steadily rising and the wind would like to get them off before dark moderating. If the improvement contin- if possible." ues the sea should go down a good deal The "Ocean 'Wireless News" that by morning. We should reach their posi- morning contained a full account of the tion about four P. M. Here's an account S-O-S call and stated that they were now of the accident," he concluded, giving him rushing to the rescue, where they should the message. arrive late that afternoon. "They seem to be having a pretty tough The news threw the passengers into a time of it," said the chief, after he had fever of excitement and was soon the all- finished reading it. "I don't believe I absorbing topic. Many began to get out have ever seen a sea on this ocean any their cameras and binoculars ; the habitu- 480 THE MID-PACIFIC ally sick forgot to stay sick; the ever- jacobs-ladder with a heaving-line made hungry forgot to eat ; the propounders of fast around their waists. foolish questions worked overtime; the The passengers were all gotten safely man with the preference for the personal into the boat, with the exception of the pronoun "I" said there was nothing to Captain and crew, who were to stay get excited about and told of what had aboard while the vessel was being towed happened to him; the pessimist expressed to Honolulu, where she was to be re- his opinion of anyone who went to sea paired. in one of those "toy yachts," and a mov- The yacht's passengers were taken ing-picture man prepared to capitalize the aboard the big liner in practically the same situation. manner as was employed in launching the boat, amidst the cheers of hundreds of It was 4:30 p. m. when the yacht was sighted, and within half an hour the big passengers who lined the railing. After passing a towline to the disabled liner was hove to close by. The yacht ship, and the lifeboat being hoisted into was in a sad plight. Her deck gear was its place, the "Flowery Kingdom" headed all gone, railing smashed, and her bridge for Honolulu with her tow trailing behind. and cabin were in a pitiable condition. The rescued party were made as com- The sea was still too high to launch a fortable as possible. The ladies were very boat, and after being informed by the tired and exhausted from their trying ex- yacht that they were holding their own periences, and badly frightened by the fairly well, it was decided to stand by process of transferring them on board the until the following morning. liner, so they were all put to bed and The next morning the sea had gone administered to by the doctor and stew- down sufficiently to handle a boat, so the ardesses. chief officer with a picked crew in one of Miss Sylvester, who stood bravely by the motor-lifeboats, undertook the task of her post as wireless operator, rallied quick- transferring the passengers from the yacht. ly, being young, strong and vigorous. A The ship was swung around to make a good night's sleep, and she was herself lee, and the boat lowered down near the again. Congratulations were heaped upon water and held there by two men sta- her, and she was the heroine of the party. tioned at each end of the boat with boat- She received her honors with much em- hooks to hold it away from the ship's side barrassment, and said that she had only and prevent her from being dashed to done what anyone else, would have done. pieces. Another man stood ready by the It was the day after the rescue that releasing device, while the officer stood Glenn sent down a note, asking if he watching the roll of the ship. When she might be permitted to call and present rolled to leeward the boat touched the his compliments. When she received this water and the word was given to let go. note, to which he had signed his name in A powerful shove by the men with the full, she sat staring at it for some minutes, boathooks, and they were clear. Once away her hand unconsciously going to her heart. from the side of the ship, they were safe At last she gasped, half aloud, to herself : enough, but the next difficulty now to over- "Glenn here? Can it be possible?" She come was to take the people off the yacht. passed her hand across her forehead and Upon coming alongside the yacht, by read the note again ; got up, looked at her- skillful work it was found possible to self in the mirror, sat down by the writing- manage the boat by making fast to a table, with her elbows on the table and hawser and holding her off with the boat- resting her chin in her hands. She sat in hooks, while the passengers came down the meditation for some minutes; then, as if THE MID -PACIFIC 481

having reached a decision, she took up a great improvement in his wife's health, and pen and with steady self-possession wrote reluctant to return to Newport so soon, a formal note, granting his request, ad- decided to continue the trip through to dressed it, rang for a porter and sent it the Orient, and from there cross over to up to him. Then she leaned back and Honolulu, visit the exposition in San Fran- waited. cisco and return home via the Panama In a short time there came a knock at Canal. While steaming from Madras to the door. She opened it with the same Singapore they were overhauled by the easy composure she would have done for German sea-raider "Emden" and forced anybody else. There stood Glenn, with a to give up their wireless operator, a young smile on his handsome face. German of military age. The officers then "How do you do ?" he said, as he ex- examined the ship's papers, and after satis- tended his hand, which she took in a firm fying themselves that there were no Ger- grip and looked straight and fearlessly into mans aboard, the yacht was allowed to his eyes, and replied in his own words: proceed on her way. "How doyou do, Mr. Carroll? It is a Here she paused, her voice shaking great surprise to find you here. Won't slightly, and said : "Well, you see, I hadn't you come in and sit down ?" forgot what you taught me about wireless, "You can't be more surprised than I," and that's how I came to be the operator." answered Glenn. "When your name came "Well, I want to congratulate you upon with the others I could hardly believe it. your success," said Glenn. "You did splen- "How do you do, Mr. Carroll? It is a didly—everybody's talking about you. All the world ?" you'd have to do is say the word and you She laughed in her same teasing ways could get a dozen theatrical engagements." of yore, and replied : "Oh, just an adven- ture of mine." Then she told him briefly "I thank yOu for the compliment," she that three years after he had gone away returned, coloring slightly and letting her She laughed in her same teasing way eyes fall, "but tell me about yourself. met Mrs. Avery, an old school chum of Where have you been all these years, and why have I never heard from you?" her mother's, who was very ill and de- spondent over the death of her daughter He looked into her inquiring eyes and Lorraine, who had been killed in an auto fidgeted. She was forcing his hand. He accident at Palm Beach. The doctors rec- had not expected her to come at him like ommended a sea voyage as the best treat- this, but he managed to catch her non- ment for the invalid, and her husband, a chalant mood and answered: "Well, when wealthy New York capitalist, purchased I left Sault Ste. Marie, I went into the a beautiful yacht from a foreign noble- Army, spent three years, there, and since man, which he renamed the "Lorraine," then I have been working for Marconi, in memory of his daughter. Mrs. Avery and you have not heard from me because insisted that she accompany them on the I thought you wouldn't care to." cruise, and after an exchange of telegrams She looked at him with a peculiar ex- with her mother and obtaining her permis- pression and said : "What made you think sion, she decided to make the trip. From that ?" Newport they went to Madeira, and from He glanced at her and coughed slightly, there to Monte Carlo and Cairo, where but before he had time to reply she said : they spent the winter. The breaking out "We won't talk about that now. I want of the European war compelled them to to hear about your experiences. You know abandon a proposed trip to the Baltic and I am full of curiosity. It seems good to Norway coasts. Mr. Avery, noting the see you again. I want to hear all you

6-M.P. 482 THE MID-PACIFIC have to tell, so hurry and give me the terns, and a large number of couples were whole story." dancing to the strains of a tempting rag, "It is a rather long story," he replied playing by the native orchestra. Chinese laughingly, and evidently much relieved, waiters were running to and fro, bearing "and I shall need more time than I have trays of refreshments. The varied colored to spare just at present. I will be off gowns worn by thfe women, contrasted duty this evening, and if you'll grant me with the evening dress suits of the men the pleasure we'll have the stories by moon- and the bright uniforms of the officers, light." presented a very brilliant and picturesque She colored a little and let her eyelids scene. fall. He looked straight at her. She "How would you like to go for a lit- lifted them for an instant and then let tle sight-seeing tour tomorrow?" inquired them fall again, and he was conscious of Glenn, after they had separated themselves a pleasant thrill. from the rest of the gathering and strolled "Won't you?" he pleaded again. over near a deserted section of the deck. "Why—yes," she finally replied. "I'm "We can take dinner out on Waikiki silly, I guess, and after what has happened Beach in the evening." I suppose we should at least be friends. "Oh, that will be perfectly lovely," she Anyway, I love stories by moonlight, and cried, clapping her hands together enthu- if you'll promise to tell me everything I'll siastically. "You know I've read such de- come," she concluded, letting her eyes, lightful poems and stories about Hawaii which had been mocking him, fall again. that I am just crazy to get there. It will "Of course I will," he answered, laugh- be simply grand to have some one for a ingly, "providing you reciprocate." guide who has been there before. I'm When he had made an appointment to going to stay with the Averys at the Royal see her that night and went back to his Hawaiian Hotel. You'll find me there office, his brain was in a whirl and he whenever you're ready to start out." was thinking excitedly of their next meet- Never, it seemed to Glenn, had he felt ing. "Great Scott!" he said to himself, more happy than when he jumped out of "what a fool I was to run away from a the auto in front of the hotel and assisted beautiful girl like her. I suppose now, Charlotte into the car. They were both she will make me dance my head off to intensely happy as the car started off up get even. Gee! but the way of the trans- the Nuuanu Valley at a brisk clip. gressor is hard." At the Nuuanu Cemetery he showed her In the meetings that followed he found where some of the early missionaries had her to be a wonderfully clever girl; full been buried and where the royalty of old of fun and a great tease, able to at all Hawaii were peacefully sleeping, with the times control the situation, and a good palms waving above them, in a little plot diplomat. She could find out all she of ground which the Government of Ha- wanted to know and adroitly parry his waii had spent large sums in beautifying lead every time he attempted to approach with monuments, flowers and a beautiful the subject nearest his own heart. mausoleum. The beauty and quiet of the It was the last night out from Hono- place, together with what Glenn told her lulu and there was much merry-making about some of the royalty, so beloved by aboard, while the ship glided along over the people, made her work hard to force a smooth tropical sea, with the stars and back a tear. moon shining brightly overhead. The She was awe-stricken, as she clung to boat deck was gayly decorated with flags him in a frightened way and gazed down of all nations, bunting and Japanese lan- from the dizzy heights of the Pali, a

THE MID -PACIFIC 483

mountain towering high above Honolulu, still glowing from the excitement of the where King Kamehameha, a famous Ha- day. waiian chieftain, once drove his defeated They sat there for some time, listening enemies over the great precipice to perish to the gentle lapping of the water against on the ragged rocks below. Honolulu the sandy beach and saying but little. It looked like . a toy village from where she was getting dark now, and numerous lights stood. She could see broad fields of sugar were beginning to beam from hotels and plantations in the distance and ships far cottages along the shore. The searchlight out to sea. on Diamond Head commenced flashing its From the Pali they drove to the Moana- beams seaward, and a large tropical moon lua Gardens, one of Honolulu's beautiful was beginning to shed its silvery rays. parks. The next stop was made at the tion would have been of intense interest. Bishop Museum, wherein are contained A complete silence reigned for some time, large numbers of South Sea antiquities and broken only by the sad sighing of the tropic relics of old Hawaii. Leaving the museum breezes in the palm trees and the soft they went to the Punchbowl, an extinct swishing of the water. volcano, the crater of which resembles a punchbowl, hence its name. They next Glenn put out his hand and closed his visited the aquarium, with its large and fingers about hers. She made no resist- varied collection of beautifully colored ance. He took her other hand, and hold- fishes. They sat under the same tree ing them both tightly, drew her toward where Robert Louis Stevenson composed him and looked down into her upraised many of his delightful tales of the South eyes. Those eyes were deep and trusting Seas, and Glenn showed her where the and misty with tears of happiness. "Dear- Hawaiian kings once held their hulahula est," he whispered, "I love you. Can you dances and feasts, under the spreading forgive me ?" palms at Waikiki Beach, to the strains of She nodded her head slowly. "Oh enchanting Hawaiian music. Glenn !" was all she said, as she laid her After dinner at the Moana, they went head on his shoulder and cried softly and out on the beach to enjoy the cool breeze happily. and view one of those gorgeous Hawaiian And thus ended anotHeIr romance in sunsets. Both were sublimely happy and "Fair Hawaii." 484 THE MID-PACIFIC Java's Great Boroboedoer

By A. CABATON.

Y TRAIN from Batavia it is a tive villages to Moentilan, where the train delightful day's ride to Djogjar- is exchanged for a vehicle, or one may go B karta, in the very center of Java, by foot to the greatest of Indian temple carta, where the Sultan resides with his ruins. harem and court. If, however, you have taken the coast From Djogjargarta to world-famous railway from Batavia to Samarang, then Boro-Boedoer it is but a two hours' ride for a visit to renowned Boro-Boedoer, the by steam tram through a succession of na- steam tram should be taken in the morn-

485 486 THE MID-PACIFIC ing to Moentilan-passar. A carriage or with galleries built by human hands. The a dog cart can be hired from the jobmaster nethermost step, upon which a few stray at the passar. If the conveyance is re- images discovered about the ruins have quired overnight an extra charge of forty been placed, forms the upper portion of a cents gold is made, but it is possible to terrace wall which is still buried below return to Djogja or Samarang the same the soil. This terrace is a star-shaped night. The coachman shauld be told to polygon of thirty-six sides, measuring 374 drive first to the Mendoet temple. feet in diameter. Below it is a larger and This ruin is situated about eleven miles square terrace, also entirely underground, from the starting point. It has been re- while above ti is another, of the same stored as far as possible in the course of shape as the middle terrace, from which the past few years. The building is forty- it is reached by stairways of seven steps six feet square, and twenty-sided, with the each. Some years ago it was discovered zigzag angles which are a feature of so that these three terraces are of a later date many Javanese temples. The chamber it- that the original internal structure, which self is twenty-one feet square. Much of is of a more slender shape, and that they the temple is damaged and many of its were constructed to support the latter, decorations have disappeared, but the three when it began to show signs of settlement. large images standing against the inner The base of the internal structure has been wall have been preserved almost intact. exposed in parts in order to obtain photo- In the center is a Buddha figure, eleven graphs of its beautiful bas-reliefs. These feet high, the simplicity of which stands had been covered by falling earth while out in sharp contrast to the highly-deco- they were in process of completion ( some rated Bodhisatwa (sons of Buddha) im- of them are unfinished) and are conse- ages on either side, each of which is eight quently in an excellent state of preserva- feet high. The groups of images in high tion. Unfortunately it was impossible to relief on the three largest outer walls of run the risk of leaving the base of the the temple also deserve notice. inner structure permanently exposed. The After a quarter of an hour's ride, in building above the three terraces consists the course of which the traveler crosses of four parapeted galleries erected upon the new bridge over the Progo and passes the internal walls of the lower gallery, a small temple, now restored, through and of four upper terraces, of which the which a wild kapok tree has grown, a three highest are of circular shape. The height is gained just opposite the Boro- topmost terrace is crowned by a large Boedoer. On the top of this is a pasanq- cupola, having a radius of thirty and one- grahan, where a fair meal and lodging half feet. can be had. Not counting the first step now show- The temple of Boro-Boedoer, built in ing above ground, the Boro-Boedoer, from pure Buddhist style, was begun in the ninth its base to the top of the cupola has a century ,and its ruins are the most remark- height of about ninety-seven feet, while able of the many antiquities to be found in the base of the hill projects about fifty- Java. During the British occupation of five feet below the bottom step. the island the temple was laid bare to the Each of the galleries is distinguished by base, by removing the earth which had been a profusion of architectural detail and by heaped up against it, possibly by the last numerous Buddha images. Upon the para- Buddha worshippers in Java. The Boro- pets are rows of little shrines, each with Boedoer is not a building in the ordinary three turrets, in the frieze of which there sense, and has no entrance. It is the top is a representation of Buddha in a sitting of a hill, artificially lowered and encircled posture. 488 THE MID-PACIFIC

•:*

The greatest of Australian tourist resorts is Mt. Kosciusko, where the government of New South Wales has erected a modern hotel, and has made this country a Paradise for trout fishers in Summer, and an ideal resort for the lovers of Winter Sports in that season. In an Australian Limestone Cave.

Australia for the World Traveler

By ATLEE HUNT. <•

ROBABLY everyone has heard The visitor to Australia, as he sweeps something of the scenic attractions across the continent's tremendous expanses, p of Australia for the tourist. Its sees in its physical aspects much that is broad landscapes, its mountains, caves, riv- unique and much that will grip his atten- ers, harbors, and forests have been de- tion. But it is the signs on every hand picted many times, and for the tourist, as of wealth and prosperity and the tremen- a tourist or mere sight-seer, Australia has dous possibilities for the development of much to show, but in a wider sense the nature's wonderful endowments that fires tourist, as a world traveler and student his imagination. of social and political .problems, may learn To travelers from older lands, and to much from a sojourn in Australia. Britishers especially, the story of the up-

489 490 THE MID-PACIFIC

Trout Fishing in Australia. rising of this great outpost of the Empire, briefly told in a few numerals, generally this new Britain transplanted in the South- so tiresome, no matter how surprising or ern Seas, is deeply impressive. interesting in their full meaning. Bales Here is a vast territory, rich in soils and of wool and bushels of wheat are unpoetic minerals, which has been added to the Brit- subjects, having little in common with the ish Empire without war or violence, a Com- sunset glories of a snow-clad mountain. monwealth not won by the sword or sprung But round them lies a wonderfully inter- from lust of territory; in whose bloodless esting record of Australia's development— records there is no stain of external or in- they mean a lot of things that stand for ternal strife. The conqueors have been the pleasure and material wealth in an earthly hardy explorers and pioneers, whose sole paradise. battles have been waged in subduing na- From the dawn of its civilization in ture. There is no ancient civilization to 1788—just 127 years ago—the population hurl back reproaches for its extinction, no of Australia has gradually grown from the people worthy to live who have been forced thousand or so first white settlers to nearly out of existence. The process by which 5,000,000 souls. It is now increasing at Australia has risen has resembled a natural the rate of about 150,000 yearly. Spread growth rather than a deliberate creation. over the vast extent of 2,974,580 square It has been won, not by clash of arms, but miles—larger than the United States and by the triumphs of brain and muscle and twenty-five times as large as the British the highest human virtues. Isles—the density of population is less than The life of Australian civilization is two persons to the square mile. This hardly more than a century. In that brief meager population carve out from their space has been crowded the stirring story rich territory every year wealth to the value of a glorious achievement. It may be of £200,000,000. Australia's flockmasters THE MID-PACIFIC 491

and herdsmen tend 93,000,000 sheep—a built up a world-wide commerce, and the world's record. Horned cattle exceed 11,- country's oversea trade is worth £145,- 000,000, and there are more than 3,000,- 000,000, or more than £31 per head. To 000 horses and pigs. Mankind looks to his industry he adds the virtue of thrift; Australia for the finest merino wools, and and his prosperity may be gauged by the in a single year the world's mills receive fact that one inhabitant in every three has from her 760,000,000 pounds. Her farm- a deposit in the savings banks, for there ers, tilling as yet but 12,000,000 acres, are over 1,600,000 depositors, whose ac- raise 95,000,000 bushels of high-priced cumulations exceed £60,000,000. wheat, besides large quantities of oats, Australia has magnificent public and pri- maize, hay, sugar cane, wine, and every vate institutions, a free system of educa- kind of fruit and vegetable in the category, tion of a high standard, a liberal franchise and £40,000,000 sterling passes into their for both parliamentary and municipal gov- pockets in a year. Its dairymen make 212,- ernment, and out of these has grown that 000,000 pounds of butter, 16,000,000 advanced domestic and industrial legisla- pounds of cheese, and 55,000,000 pounds tion which has been held up as an object of bacon and hams. Its miners dig up lesson to other countries. gold, silver, lead, copper, tin, coal and a The visitor to Australia, then, finds a hundred and one other metallic and non- rich land, a picturesque land, a healthy metallic minerals, valued at £23,000,000. land, peopled by an industrious, happy, and Its factories manufacture goods valued at contented race, living under a democracy £120,000,000, and increase the value of of their own planning, perhaps the freest raw materials to the extent of £48,000,- on earth. He finds much to delight in and 00. On his industry the Australian has much to think about.

The Road to the Jenolan Caves. 492 THE MID-PACIFIC The Cultivation of Rice in Hawaii is Entirely in the Hands of the Chinese.

What the Chinese Have Done and are Doing in Hawaii

By CHUNG K. AI.

THE PIONEER CHINESE SETTLERS. not have enough work to go around even T MAY not be a bad idea for me for one-third of the forty-five Chinese. Further, when Vancouver himself returned to take you back to the early his. to the Islands in 1795 or thereabouts, he I torical days, when the Islands were found Chinese settlers already here and barely known to the outside world. While that comercial relations had been estab- the American War of Independence was lished between these Islands and China. going on, there were some very interest- ing dramas enacted right here in the Isles INTRODUCTION OF RICE. of the Pacific. Vancouver, in his Book The Hawaiian products in those days of Voyages, related that in the year 1789 were very few, but chief among them was a Captain Metcalf had sailed from Macao, sandalwood, which was very highly prized China, with a crew of ten Americans and by the Chinese, so that even to-day the forty-five Chinese on the schooner Eleanor. Islands are still known in some places as This vessel was said to have called at the the Sandalwood Islands. Later on the Islands of Hawaii and Maui. Although Chinese realized that the opportunities for no records can be found to substantiate development were unlimited, and so rice the claim, it was commonly believed that culture was introduced, thriving in the a good number of these forty-five Chinese, great tracts of swamps and neglected lands, if not all, took up their residence in the and growing almost side by side with taro. Islands. What helped to strengthen this Thus you can see two staple foods raised belief was that the schooner Eleanor did right here for two different races, although

993 494 THE MID- PACIFIC nothing was done about Irish potatoes. you an idea of the part played by the Chi- The rice industry was at that time the nese in the early development of the three leading one in Hawaii, flourishing until leading industries of the Islands, from the annexation of these Islands to the which the Government, since the days of United States. The exclusion Act has Kamehameha, has derived its chief sources practically ruined this industry, as it de- of revenue. prives Chinese rice growers of the supply KAMEHAMEHA THE GREAT AN APT of Chinese laborers. PUPIL. CULTIVATION OF SUGAR. The Chinese taught Kamehameha the If you ask any schoolboy what is the Great, the unifier of Hawaii, his first les- leading industry in Hawaii to-day, he will sons in the economics of government and without hesitation say that sugar is. But gave him the idea of port charges, import if you ask him who introduced sugar here, and export duties. To his credit, the King he may find it difficult to answer. In dig- was quick in establishing a system for the ging up the records one will find that in collection of taxes and duties for his own 1802 a sugar mill was sent for from China, country similar to that practiced in China. as the Chinese had already discovered that It must be remembered that China was these Islands would be suitable for sugar at that time the only country with which cultivation, in view of the fine climate and he held foreign relations. soil. A great deal of credit ought to be When the white population began to given to those pioneers, as they were not arrive, the Chinese took up agriculture in trained farmers in the modern sense of the various forms, namely, the raising of poul- word. In the "Polynesian," a Hawaiian try, wheat, potatoes and vegetables of all paper published in the early days, there kinds suitable for the needs and consump- was published, under date of August 24, tion of the white people. Even back in 1850, an account of a meeting of the Ha- 1849, the year of the gold rush in Cali- waiian Agricultural and Historical So- fornia, and for some years later, wheat, ciety, and also the news item that a Chi- grain, potatoes, cabbages and many other nese owning a sugar plantation on Lanai commodities were raised by my people here had sent for a sugar mill plant from China and shipped to San Francisco. in 1802. Later, sugar was exported in CHINA THE NEW LABOR MARKET. large quantities and was also sent to China to be refined. With the increase of population and the development of new industries, the crying THE BEGINNING OF PINEAPPLES. need was for labor. Looking over the The next important industry that the records, I found that in August, 1851, the Chinese took up was the cultivation of Hawaiian Agricultural and Historical So- pineapples. This was long before the days ciety sent the ship Thetis, Captain Cass, of the Wahiawa pine growers, although to China for laborers. In a few months I don't want to take away any of the the ship returned to Honolulu with 195 credit belonging to the latter, who are the Chinese as agricultural laborers and in ones who developed it on such a large addition twenty boys as house servants. scale. The experiment proved to be so satisfac- The cultivation of sugar and pineapples tory, since the laborers turned out to be has now passed into the hands of the industrious, that Captain Cass was again Anglo-Saxons, but what remains of the sent out with his ship to China in July, rice industry is still in the hands of the 1852, for an additional one hundred labor- Chinese. But what I have said will give ers. From 1852 to 1864 Chinese immi- THE MID-PACIFIC 495

gration was encouraged, and during that their arms and wait for charity? No! period 704 Chinese landed at Honolulu. They at once went to work and built up At that time many Chinese merchants in an even better Chinatown than before, put- San Francisco began to establish their busi- ting up good, substantial brick buildings. ness here. They soon commenced business on their By 1865 the sugar industry was devel- bare word. Fortunately this was accepted oped to such a degree that a great scarcity by the white people in control of the large of labor was felt. The sugar planters and wholesale houses and banks. Although the other owners of land had already been im- strictest economy and privations had to be pressed with the high degree of efficiency endured for years by my countrymen, the and the fine characteristics exhibited by the confidence reposed in their honesty has not Chinese. Kamehameha V, with keen fore- been misplaced, for every dollar owed has sight, took up the matter of relieving the been paid. labor famine. The House of Nobles As importers and exporters, if we take passed an act creating a Royal Commission the number of our people in comparison of Immigration in Foreign Countries. On with other races here, the percentage of March 7, 1865, the position of commis- duties paid is found to be high. Time sioner was offered to Dr. Hillebrand, who will not permit me to go into details in accepted. Thus the King had shown his regard to the imports from America. earnestness by immediately affixing his Although the Chinese holdings to-day signature to this commission. amount to millions of dollars, it may be Dr. Hillebrand lost no time in carrying surprising to you to learn of so few busi- out instructions to proceed to China for ness houses being incorporated. This is 500 laborers. He sailed from Honolulu due to the fact that the Chinese co-part- April 27, 1865, and meeting with success nership contract is reliable. The system in China, he chartered two vessels. The of incorporation is not even adopted in Alberto left Hongkong July 15, 1865, China, notwithstanding the fact that many with 240 laborers and arrived at Hono- business houses are several hundred years lulu September 25, while the Rosco ar- old and represent large investments. rived here October 13, 1865, with 223 laborers, besides fifty-two women, the wives REPORT ON TAXATION. of the Chinese in the two vessels. From The amounts of real and personal prop- that time to annexation in 1900, there ar- erty taxes for 1914 paid by the Chinese rived in these Islands 37,817 Chinese. was: 814 Chinese holding real property, Thus, from these facts, it can be easily assessed value $1,866,544; and 1987 Chi- seen, no matter how much my people may nese holding personal property, assessed be misunderstood, that the Chinese were value $2,489,074. Total $4,355,618. Sav- the pioneers of labor and the great vital ings bank depositors' accounts for 1914 to industries of these Islands, which have ac- June 30: 1864 Chinese; total deposits, crued many millions of dollars to the Ter- $535,062.14. ritorial and Federal Governments. Now as to what we are going to do, we will continue to be law-abiding citi- CONFLAGRATIONS OF 1886 AND 1900. zens. We will instruct our children in Now let me refer to the great conflagra- the strict morality which we have always tions of 1886 and 1900, the first of which displayed in Hawaii, and as taught by the wiped out the entire Chinatown, while the old religions of China, as well as the Chris- second one swept out a Chinatown bigger tian religion now voluntarily accepted by than it was in '86. The Chinese loss was many of my countrymen. $4,000,000, but did my countrymen fold The younger generation of Chinese, es- 496 THE MID-PACIFIC pecially those of Hawaiian birth, are to- patriotism, and should be accorded the day filling important positions of trust in same rights in all matters as those of all branches of commercial life, whether other nationalities. in banks, insurance and trust companies, I sincerely hope that the aim and ob- or in American wholesale and retail ject, as well as the good work now com- houses. Having been educated in the local menced by this organization, will produce schools or in the universities on the main- beneficial results, that amicable relations land with credit to themselves and their among all nationalities will continue, and native island home, they should be given that Hawaii nei will always be first in the glad hand of fellowship. They are our hearts, ever remembering the saying American citizens, imbued with all the of the great Confucius, "Within the Four American ideas of love of country and Seas we all are brothers."

The Chinese Farmers in Hawaii are still Primitive to a Degree. ADVERTISING SECTION Among the Hawaiian Islands Map by courtesy of the Inter-Island Steam Navigation Company.

HAWAIIAN I 9 LAND S Scale / kc4=2oqodo "net ,0a, /* Naomi' /9-o. atesmiges° By h'E.Newfon-----4.-i/, /303. Sco/e, in Ali/ea

• 3+ as SO ma 54 i• 116 MOLOKAI

MAUI

LANAI

t3o

KAHOOLAWE

N Nri

W co

HAW AI

The Island of Hawaii is about the size of the State of Connecticut; the area of all the islands is about two-thirds that of Belgium. STEAMSHIP SERVICE. THE KAUAI CANYONS From Honolulu, on the Island of Oahu, At 5 :15 P. M. every Tuesday there is to and from the Island of Maui, there is a large boat (S. S. "Kinau") leaving almost daily service, either by way of Honolulu for Kauai ports, a night's ride, Kahului on the lee side of Maui, or on the and on the return leaving Waimea, Kauai, windward side, at Lahaina, there being at 10 A. M. Saturdays, affording oppor- splendid auto services between the two. tunity for a visit to the famous canyons Twice a week there are sailings from of Kauai and the Barking Sands. Fare Honolulu for the Big Island of Hawaii. each way $6. The "W. G. Hall," a Communication between the islands of smaller steamer, leaves Honolulu every Hawaii is maintained by the splendid and Thursday at 5 P. M. Returning leaves frequent steamers of the Inter-Island Nawiliwili, Kauai, every Tuesday at Steam Navigation Co. Ltd. 5 P. M. THE HALEAKALA TRIP. THE VOLCANO OF KILAUEA. Mondays and Fridays there is a boat The flagship of the Inter-Island fleet leaving Honolulu for Kahului, Maui, at leaves Honolulu every Wednesday and 5 :00 in the afternoon—fare $6 each way, Saturday for Hilo on the Island of Hawaii, a pleasant night's ride, and from Kahului from whence a visit to Kilauea is made, and from whence a tour of the largest of on Wednesday and Saturday afternoons the Hawaiian Islands may be begun. Fare the same steamer (S. S. "Claudine") sails to Hilo, each way, $12.50; by rail and for Honolulu. this is the most conven- auto to volcano, about $5.00 return; rates ient boat for trips to Haleakala and the at Volcano House, about $6 a day. famous Koolau Ditch Trail. The Mon- The main offices of the Inter-Island day boat from Honolulu touches at many Steam Navigation Co., Ltd., are on Queen Maui ports. Street, Honolulu ; phone No. 4941. 2 THE MID-PACIFIC Honolulu from the Trolley Car

Surfriding as seen from the cars of the Rapid Transit Company.

You may take the electric tram as you lulu, or you may transfer to Kaimuki step off of the steamer in Honolulu, and on the heights behind Diamond Head, for five cents ride for hours—if you wish which is now a great fortress ; in fact, to take transfers—to almost every part the entire day may be spent with profit of this wonderously beautiful city and its on the car lines. At Waikiki often may suburbs. be seen from the cars, men and boys dis- There appeared in the Mid-Pacific porting themselves on their surfboards Magazine for January, 1915, an article as they come in standing before the telling of a hundred sights to be seen waves on these little bits of wood. from the street cars. The cars in Honolulu are all open, for At one end of the King street car line the temperature never goes below 68 is Fort Shafter, on a commanding hill, degrees, nor does it rise above 85 de- from which may be seen the cane lands grees, and there is always a gentle trade and rice fields, stretching to Pearl Har- wind stirring. bor in the distance. Before reaching When Honolulu was ready for her Fort Shafter is the Bishop Museum, electric tram system, the Honolulu Rapid having the most remarkable Polynesian Transit & Land Co. completed the most collection in the world. At the other end of the line is Kapiolani Park, a beautiful perfect system of its kind in the world, tropical Virden, in which is located the and it is always a delight to ride smooth- famous aquarium of Hawaiian fishes, ly over its lines. -;,,aled only by the aquarium in Naples. It is but twenty minutes by car to Transfers are given to branch lines Waikiki beach and but five minutes penetrating several of the wonderfully longer, by the same car, to the wonderful beautiful mountain valleys behind Hono- aquarium in Kapiolani Park. THE MID-PACIFIC 3 The Island of Oahu TO SAN FRANCISCO AND JAPAN The Matson Steam Navigation Co., maintaining the premier ferry service be- tween Honolulu and San Francisco, and the Toyo Kishen Kaisha maintaining pa- VAVCOUYCR latial ocean greyhound service between San SEATT Francisco and the Far East via Honolulu, 421' /DA C/F/ NANA C have their Hawaiian agencies with Castle

HAWAIIAN & Cooke, Ltd. This, one of the oldest firms in Hono- lulu, occupies a spacious building at the PM/LIPP/NE 4 78F,,L-- corner of Fort and Merchant streets, Honolulu. The ground corner floor is used as local passenger and freight offices of the Toyo Kisen Kaisha and of the Matson Steam Navigation Company; Castle & Cooke, Ltd. The adjoining offices are used by the firm for their business as sugar factors and insurance agents. Phone 125 i. Castle & Cooke, Ltd., act as agents for many of the plantations throughout Ha- waii, and here may be secured much varied information. Here also the tourist may secure in the folder racks, booklets and Maps by courtesy of Castle & Cooke, Ltd. pamphlets descriptive of almost every part of the great ocean.

0AI-I ti OAHU ft Span Milts 548 HINDUILLIMOP4 SCHOOL of 1514nd 46 Mlit5 • r,■ :LS IsIRld, 25 Mile5 Fr sft'rviror tit Kalla.9,030 F6 COPYRJOHTtr, ST Po,u1,No ■wer 60,000 People POPE, CAfforn,c ,:too Kits i przdgc frc, Tcpon 3,voo KIES trr i,oht■Its Govern/n(0 Rood afblillti Wand , floe-doss P(1111.00 Stiitem 5,90- Crop (or f400 ie9 ?} Ton,.

The Island of Oahu is more than half the size of Rhode Island, although it is one of the smallest of the Hawaiian group. 4 THE MID-PACIFIC The Island of Hawaii

Map by courtesy of Alexander LI' Baldwin.

■ a,..p oti Ur,Pn p,111,,e. I run gram Crack

The Island of Hawaii is about twice the size of Delaware. On the island of Maui, on which Alex- to sail to or from Hawaii, and the exact ander & Baldwin are agents for the larg- movements of the large Inter-Island est single sugar plantation of Hawaii, is steamers. This truly American concern Haleakala, the largest and most wonder- has diversified interests in all of the isl- ful extinct crater in the world, as on ands, and is therefore interested in the Hawaii, Kilauea is Earth's largest ac- development in every way of every part tive volcano. On the island of Kauai, of the Territory. where this firm also has its interests, The Hawaiian group is composed of there are canyons as varied in color and seven large and a number of small isl- variety of scene as any in Arizona, while ands. The largest island of the group- on Oahu, where the home office of Alex- Hawaii—occupies nearly as much land as ander & Baldwin is housed in the Stan- does the State of Connecticut, and boasts genwald building in Honolulu, there is an unbroken sugar-cane area more than the famous Pali or precipice which is a hundred miles long. It is the home of visited by every tourist and is the pride the two highest island mountain peaks of the Hawaiians themselves. in the world. The going and coming of people in The Hawaiian Islands lie 2,100 miles Hawaii is regulated by the truly remark- southwest of San Francisco, and have able monthly calendar in red, white and a population of 200,000, the very living blue, issued by the firm of Alexander & of whom depends upon the growing of Baldwin, sugar factors and insurance sugar cane, the islands shipping over agents. This large calendar, it is safe 500,000 tons of raw sugar to America to say, hangs in every business office annually, this creating and supporting the in the islands, and in many on the coast. two largest American steamship com- It shows each day just what steamer is panies. THE MID-PACIFIC 5

-1-47 1lAWAIIAN ELEt.

111r.;", K:ati

Where the Lighting and Cooking in the Honolulu Home is arranged for as well as the Power for Factories.

The Home Building in Honolulu of H. Hackfeld & Co., Ltd., Plantation Agents, Wholesale Merchants and Agents Pacific Mail S. S. Co., the American-Hawaiian, and all the Principal Atlantic S. S. Lines. 6 THE MID-PACIFIC The Island of Maui Map by courtesy of the Pacific Guano & Fertilizer Co.

t.

PULI none HONOLULU NORMAL SCRIM ''. SCALE or MILE .5

PREPARED AND COPYRiCriffiD r. solut.ut MEM T POPE. HAY :,00•••:,

\s' \ 4.

MAUI Are,: in 6rch,le S9ucre Miles 728 Length 48 Mies. Breadth 3o ['tiles Highest Elevation too3x Veer J.,ar9est Exiincs Crater in the Vforld Population aver 45.a oo Di 4ronce from Honolul, 7z Aliles lev'en Sugar Ploototions Suc, Crop tar

The Island of Maui with its sister island, Lanai, is about the size of the State of Rhode Island.

rite PACIFIC GUANO & FERTILIZER,WORra HONOLULU, T. H.

The Home of the Pacific Guano & Fertilizer Corn pany. It has its works on King Street, Honolulu. THE MID-PACIFIC 7

There are four banks on thee Island of Maui. The National Baldwin Bank of Maui, the First National Bank of Wailuku, the Lahaina National Bank, and the Paia Bank. Our picture this month shows the First National Bank of Wailuku

The Kahului Railway runs frequent trains from the Port of Kahului to Wai- luku and Iao Valley, as well as, in the other direction, to Paia, and to Haiku in the pineapple district. The Wailuku Hotel, in the beautiful town of Iao Valley, is near the railway station and makes a rate of $2.50 a day.

There are three great department stores on Maui, two in Kahului, the Puu- nene Store, which is the retail establishment of the Hawaiian Sugar Co., and the Kahului Store, which takes over the merchandise department of the Kahului Rail- way. The third great Maui store is that at Paia 8 THE MID-PACIFIC The Lure of Australia

BRISBANE

....•••••.,

PORT AUGUSTA SYDNEY ADELAIDE.

Manly Boys. The Trans-Continental Railway.

The Continent of Australia is equal Australia's greatest mountain, higher in extent to the United States of than Righi or Pilatus, and on the Buf- America. falo Mountains in Victoria, the coun- Australia and the islands of the south tryside is deeply snow-covered in win- call appealingly to the people of the ter, and these resorts are made the ren- world, and once the lure of the Pacific dezvous for fashion and beauty, who is listened to, it is seldom that he who revel in the exhilarating Alpine de- visits southern lands for any length of lights of ski-running, ice-skating and time is ever content to leave them again. tobogganing. Australia has much to show the Australia possesses several magnifi- tourist. It opens up a new field of in- cent lacustrine districts, notably the terest and pleasure for the round-the- Gippsland Lakes in Victoria, the Lakes world traveler, and for the political of the Tasmania Tableland—Great and social student. Lake and Lake St. Clair, and the Myall Australia has no falls like Niagara, no Lakes of New South Wales. The dom- canyons like Colorado, nor river like inant note of these secluded spots is the Mississippi. It nevertheless has their air of restful quiet, where tired many fine waterfalls of striking beauty, constitutions renew their vitality and like the Barron Falls in Queensland, overwrought nerves are reinvigorated. and the Fitzroy Falls in New South Australia teems with scenic resorts, Wales. It has many magnificent trout distinct and unique, just because they streams, notably the Goodradigbee and are Australian. Australia has its own Upper Murray, which have by experi- characteristics, its very atmosphere is enced anglers been given pride of Australian ; its landscape colorings be- place before the famous Scottish long to it, and to it alone. It has fauna streams. It has many chains of moun- and flora absolutely apart. tains, not of the titanic proportions of Tourists requiring any information con- the Andes or Rockies, but which con- cerning Australia are advised to commu- tain stupendous bluffs and gaping nicate with the Tourist Bureaux in Syd- chasms, and have a distinct and ap- ney, Melbourne, Adelaide, Brisbane, Perth pealing grandeur. The Blue Moun- or Hobart. Particulars may also be ob- tains are known wherever Australia is tained on application to Mr. Niel Nielsen, known, for their peculiar atmospheric New South Wales Trade Commissioner, mantle which always enshrouds them, T. A. their gorgeous colourings, their fairy- 419 Market St., or to Mr. F. lands of fern, and their orchestral cas- Fricke, Victoria Government Agent, 687 cades and waterfalls. At Kosci usko, Market Street, San Francisco. THE MID-PACIFIC 9 Around the Pacific The Nippon Yusen Kaisha, or Japan can afford to neglect visiting the south- Mail Steamship Co. with its fleet of 94 ern central state of Australia ; for South vessels, and tonnage of 450,000, main- Australia is the State of superb climate tains what is practically a Round the and unrivalled resources. Adelaide, the Pacific service, as well as is almost a `Garden City of the South,' is the capital, and there is a Government Intelligence round the world steamship, for it main- and Tourist Bureau where the tourist, tains a service from Yokohama (start- investor, or settler is given accurate in- ing at Hongkong) to Victoria, B. C. formation, guaranteed by the govern- and Seattle, Wash, (six superb ocean ment, and free to all. From Adelaide greyhounds of 6,500 to 7,000 tons gross.) this Bureau conducts rail, river and motor Another service monthly by three steam- excursions to almost every part of the ers of 5,000 to 6,500 tons gross, from state. Tourists are sent or conducted Yokohama via Japanese, Chinese, Phili- through the magnificent mountain and pino and Australian ports to Sydney pastoral scenery of South Australia. and Melbourne. As well as a European The government makes travel easy by a service, fortnightly from Yokohama to system of coupon tickets and facilities for London and Antwerp, via Japanese, caring for the comfort of the tourist. Chinese, Malay, Ceylonese, Egyptian Excursions are arranged to the holiday resorts ; individuals or parties are made and French ports, there being eleven familar with the industrial resources, and palatial steamers of from 8,500 to 12,000 the American as well as the Britisher is tons gross, in this splendid service. Be- made welcome if he cares to make South sides these main services the Nipon Yu- Australia his home. sen Kaisha extends its coastal service to The South Australian Intelligence and all of the principal ports in Japan, Tourist Bureau has its headquarters on Korea and China, etc. Thus making it King William Street, Adelaide, and the the ideal shippers' service from Aus- government has printed many illustrated tralia, America and Europe, as well as books and pamphlets describing the the most convenient around the Pacific scenic and industrial resources of the and around the world service for the state. A post card or letter to the Intel- ligence and Tourist Bureau in Adelaide tourist or merchant. There are branch will secure the books and information offices of the Nippon Yusen Kaisha at you may desire. all the principal ports of the world, the From Sydney begins the wonderful two head office is at Tokyo, Japan, and its dollar and a half a day cruises to the telegraphic address Morioka, Tokyo. South Sea Islands, as well as cruises de From San Francisco, Vancouver and luxe to Java and in fact to every part of from Honolulu there are two lines of fast steamships to Sydney, Australia. the world through the Burns-Philp Tourist From Sydney to Adelaide, South Aus- Bureau. tralia, there is a direct line of railway on Messrs. Burns-Philip & Co. place their which concession fares are granted best steamers on the run between Sydney, tourists arriving from overseas, and no Batavia and Singapore. Their tickets are visitor to the Australian Commonwealth interchangeable with those of the Royal Packet Co. The head office of this great shipping concern is on Bridge St., Sydney, and from here their tourist bureau is con- ducted, under the direction of Mr. A. G. .tr.sart43#tY. Baxter. Tourists are sent or conducted etatitt'sitil through Europe, and circular letters-of- credit are issued around the world. There are delightful ten shilling, or $2.50-a-day cruises by the Burns-Philip boats to the New Hebrides Islands, and other lines to the Marshall Islands, the Line Islands, the Solomons and to New Guinea and the Queensland Coast. 10 THE MID-PACIFIC Wonderful New Zealand

Native New Zealanders at Rotorua. Scenically New Zealand is the world's of the tourist, for whom she has also wonderland. There is no other place in built splendid roads and wonderful the world that offers such an aggrega- mountain tracks. New Zealand is tion of stupendous scenic wonders. The splendidly served by the Government West Coast Sounds of New Zealand are Railways, which sell the tourist for a in every way more magnificent and awe- very low rate a ticket that entitles him inspiring than are the fiords of Norway. to travel on any of the railways for from Its chief river, the Wanganui, is a scenic one to two months. In the lifetime of panorama of unrivalled beauty from end a single man, (Sir James Mills of Dune- to end. Its hot springs and geysers in din, New Zealand,) a New Zealand the Rotorua district on the North Island steamship company has been built up have no equal anywhere. In this dis- that is today the fourth largest steam- trict the native Maoris still keep up ship company under the British flag, and their ancient dances or haka haka, and larger than any steamship company here may be seen the wonderfully carved owned in America with her 100,000,000 houses of the aboriginal New Zealand- million population, or in Japan with her ers. There are no more beautiful lakes 50,000,000 population. New Zealand is anywhere in the world than are the Cold a land of wonders, and may be reached Lakes of the South Island, nestling as from America by the Union Steamship they do among mountains that rise sheer Co. boats from Vancouver, San Fran- ten thousand feet. Among these moun- cisco or Honolulu. The Oceanic Steam- tains are some of the largest and most ship Co. also transfers passengers from scenic glaciers in the world. In these Sydney. The Government Tourist Southern Alps is Mt. Cook, more than twelve thousand feet high. On its Bureau has commodious offices in Auck- slopes the Government has built a hotel land and Wellington as well as the other to which there is a motor car service. larger cities of New Zealand. Direct in- New Zealand was the first country to formation and pamphlets may be secured perfect the government tourist bureau. by writing to the New Zealand Govern- She has built hotels and rest houses ment Tourist Bureau, Wellington, New throughout the Dominion for the benefit Zealand. THE MID-PACIFIC 11 New South Wales

Circular Quay, Sydney.

Physical configuration and a wide The wonderful system of limestone range of climate give the State of New caverns at Jenolan is a marvelous fairy- South Wales its wonderful diversity of land of stalactitic and stalagmitic forma- scenery, its abundance of magnificent tions, which must for ever remain the resorts by ocean, harbor, mountain, val- despair of the painter, the photographer ley, plain, lake, river and cave. It is this and the writer. The world has no more bewildering array of scenic attractions, marvelous or beautiful system of caves and the peculiar strangeness of the forms than these at Jenolan, which tourists of its animal and vegetable life, which from everywhere have marked as their makes New South Wales one of the most own. The famous Jenolan series is sup- interesting countries in the world, and plemented and rivalled by the extensive one which an up-to-date, well-traveled systems at Wombeyan and Yarrangobil- tourist must see. ly, a little further away from Sydney. The climate of the State ranges from In the south, among the Australian the arctic snows of Mt. Kosciusko to the Alps, lies the unique Kosciusko Range, sub-tropical glow of the Northern Riv- which contains the highest peak in the ers, and withal is one of the most equable Continent, and is said to be the oldest in the world. Its eastern shore is washed land surface on the globe. The Hotel by the crested rollers of the wide Pacific Kosciusko, a modern spa, replete with and stretches by meadow, tableland and every convenience, golf links and tennis mountain to the rich, dry plains beneath courts,—stands at an altitude of 6000 the rim of the setting sun. feet. In Summer, the mcuntaineer and Westward of Sydney, the Blue Moun- trout 'fisherman stays here to enjoy the tains attain an altitude of 3000 feet at a majestic scenery at the summit, or fill his distance of 60 miles. The scenery is of bag with fish caught in a handy stream, rare magnificence. Through countless and in Winter the ski-runner, tobogganer centuries, the rivers have carved stupen- and ice-skater revels in the Alpine car- dous gorges, comparable only to the nivals conducted on the glistening snow- fields. famous Colorado canyons. The eucalyp- tus covered slopes give off health-giving The Government Tourist Bureau, a splendidly equipped Institution at Challis odours, and graceful waterfalls, gaping House, Sydney, readily dispenses infor- valleys, fern-clad recesses and inspiring mation, maps, pamphlets and booklets, to Panoramas impress themselves on the all inquirers in connection with the tour- memory of the mountain visitor. ist resorts of the State. 12 THE MID-PACIFIC The Railways of Victoria

Buffalo Gorge, Victoria. The mountains of Victoria are the ernment chalet are issued on Fridays by most picturesque of any in Australia. the 4 p. m. express train from Mel- The agricultural country is the most ac- bourne and the entire cost is but five cessible, as the Victorian Railways are pounds or $25. There are special seven- planning to bring every grain grower day trips including rail, accommodation, within ten miles of a railway. Her sea- and coach drives for but three pounds or side resorts are the most salubrious, $15. The Government arranges trips to and at one of them, St. Kilda, is the the Lakes, Buchan Caves, the Victorian largest inclosed swimming bath in the Alpine district, and the sea-side resorts. world. The State Railway has estab- From time to time on this and succeed- lished in the center of business Mel- ing pages, you will learn something of bourne a Government Tourist Informa- the wonders of Victoria. tion Bureau and ticket office. Here in- From Sydney or from Adelaide, the formation is distributed and tickets sold over-seas or New Zealand tourist is to the Victorian resorts. Special, low given a very low railway rate to Mel- rate fares are made to the over-sea tour- bourne, and his wisest course on arrival ist, and there are tempting week-end is to call at the Victorian Government trips. Where it is necessary the govern- Tourist Bureau opposite the Town Hall ment erects its own hotel in the moun- on the corner of Swanton and Collins tains. It has its Chalet on the beautiful streets, where handbooks, maps and hotel Buffalo Plateau, which is a mountain guides are issued on application, and in wonderland superior to any in Australia, the same office, railway tickets may be and this is being developed. Skiing purchased to any part of Australia. If courses are being laid out and tracks cut you are writing for information it would to the many beauty spots. To this re- be wise to drop a line to Mr. E. B. Jones, gion, inclusive week-end tickets covering the acting Secretary of the Victorian transport and accommodation at the gov- Railways. THE MID-PACIFIC 13 THE GARDEN AND PLAY TASMANIA GROUND OF AUSTRALIA.

Tasmania is one of the finest tourist Bureau to handle, neither is a tour of resorts in the southern hemisphere, and no the whole island too big. Travel cou- traveller should miss the island State from pons are issued including both fares and his itinerary. It is right in the track of accommodation if desired. A choice of all southern Pacific travel, and is but ten available means of conveyance is offered hours' run from the Australian mainland. to enquirers—rail, motor, or steamer. The large steamers plying between Vic- But not only in Hobart is the visitor toria and New Zealand call at Hobart thus assisted, for in other Tasmanian cen- both ways, and there is a regular service tres there are local Tourist Associations from Sydney to Hobart. Between Launce- to apply to. In Launceston the Northern ston and Melbourne the fastest turbine Tasmania Tourist Association has splendid steamer in Australia runs thrice weekly. offices where the visitor can make himself Tasmania is a land of rivers, lakes, and at home. mountains, and it is a veritable tourists' The Tasmanian Government has an up- paradise. It is also a prolific orchard to-date office in Melbourne, at 59 William country and has some of the finest fruit Street, next door to the New Zealand growing tracts in the world. The climate Government office, where guidebooks, is cooler than the rest of Australia, and in tickets, and information can be procured. the summer months the island's accommo- At the Panama Exposition at San Fran- dation is taxed to the utmost. cisco literature regarding the beauties and The Tasmanian Government deals di- resources of Tasmania may be obtained rectly with the tourist. Hobart, the cap- from the Secretary of the Australian Pa- ital,—one of the most beautiful cities in vilion. the world—is the headquarters of the For detailed information regarding Tas- Tasmanian Government Tourist Depart- mania, either as to travel or settlement. ment; and the Bureau will arrange for enquirers should write to Mr. E. T. Em- transport of the visitor to any part of the mett, the Director of the Tasmanian Gov- island. A shilling trip to a local resort ernment Tourist Department, Hobart. is not too small for the Government Tasmania. 14 THE MID-PACIFIC The Light of Honolulu

The Honolulu Gas Company maintains at the corner of Alakea and Beretania streets spacious exhi- bition rooms and a parlor where everyone is welcome.

There are 4100 consumers of gas in tions in incandescent hoods, these giant Honolulu, and the price of gas in that hoods made incandescent by a small jet of city, $1.00 to $1.50 a thousand feet, ac- gas giving a marvelous light that seems as cording to amount consumed, is a lower bright as day. The smaller hoods are price than that charged for gas by any used in the office and in the home, greatly other American city having not more than reducing the gas bills of consumers. 4100 consumers. The Honolulu Gas Co., Ltd., has its When the Honolulu Gas Company first spacious show rooms and offices at the began business the charge for gas was corner of Beretania and Alakea Streets, $2.50 a thousand feet, but as more con- and here the public is invited to meet with sumers were secured the price was lower- the staff of experts in gas lighting and ed, and will be lowered considerably as cooking devices. They know how to aid the people of the city become educated to in saving on the gas bill to an extent that the fact that gas is the most economical will induce all to use gas, both in the fuel for cooking, as well as for lighting, that is to be had in the city of Honolulu. kitchen and in the parlor. The gas mains of Honolulu are con- Every new gas consumer aids in lower- stantly being 'extended to the outlying dis- ing the price of gas to all. They gladly tricts. The brightest and cheapest street send men to give estimates for the use of lighting in the city is that secured from gas in the home. Write them or phone gas in connection with the latest inven- 3424. THE MID-PACIFIC 15 Day Trips for the Tourist

In the spacious travel bureau in the Koolau or windward side of the island, Wells-Fargo Express Co. Building on and that is by the boats of the Oahu King Street, the transportation companies Shipping Co. Ltd., of which Mr. Eben of Hawaii and the mainland are repre- Low is the manager. These boats take sented. Here is the office of the Southern freight from the foot of Fort Street to Pacific Railway, and if you wish any travel any part of Kaneohe Bay, and may be information concerning the islands or be- engaged for excursions to the windward yond, it may be secured in the Wells-Fargo side of Oahu or to the other Hawaiian Co. office, or you can phone No. 1515. Islands. Phone No. 3157. The Wells-Fargo Express Co. Travel Shark hunting is becoming one of the Bureau is the city agent for both the Oahu recognized sports for tourists and others Railway and the Koolau Railway, which, in Hawaii, and the Young Brothers have beginning at the end of the Oahu Railway a number of launches and may be ar- near the Marconi Wireless Station at ranged with for a shark hunt or trips to Kahuku, runs to Kahana through the most Pearl Harbor, or for a day's flying-fish beautiful scenery on the Island of Oahu, hunting or tuna trolling. The Trail and and within easy walking distance of the Mountain Club will assist in making up beautiful Kaliuwa Falls. The trains of these parties; or phone Young Bros. 2551. the Koolau Railway connect with those of the Oahu Railway. With the Hawaiian Tuna Fishing Club The Hauula Hotel on the line of the and other outing organizations going in Koolau Railway, is also the terminus of for water sports near Honolulu, boat the auto bus services from Honolulu. building is being revived. The Walker This is an ideal hotel near the famous Brothers on King Street near Alapai, are Kaliuwa Falls, and on the sea at the foot the boat builders of Honolulu. They of the mountains. Excellent meals and have plans and photos of hundreds of Ha- accommodations may be secured here, and waiian water craft. They build every it makes a splendid auto outing for the kind of boat—sailing, gasoline, outrigger day. Arrangements can be made by phone canoes, and even surf boards. —No. 031. The Western Pacific Railway, which is The Honolulu Tent and Awning Co. the new scenic route between San Fran- on Beretania and Emma Streets, Phone cisco and Salt Lake City, where it con- 3367, is the necessary adjunct of the Out- nects with the Denver & Rio Grande, has ing Club. Here the Trail and Mountain its office in Honolulu at 1816 Fort Street, Club member may secure his tent for F. L. Waldron being its Hawaiian repre- camping, the boat club member his sails, sentative. and the house owner in town or country, The Western Pacific has become known awnings for shelter tents. Tents and as the "scenic line of the world", and from sails of every every form and size are made Honolulu through bookings may be made to order by experienced men. by steamer, connecting at San Francisco There is another way of getting to the directly with the Western Pacific trains. 16 THE MID-PACIFIC Souvenirs of Hawaii

The Hawaiian ukulele was invented by the Nunes family in Honolulu, and the Nunes ukulele made by the Nunes Uku- lele Company is today the ukulele of quality, for the secret of its make is kept in the family. This is the Hawaiian ukulele that has the concession at the San Diego Exposition. It is made under the personal supervision of members of the Nunes family. The factory is in Ho- nolulu, 124 Beretania Street, and the phone number is 4026.

Next to the Bishop Museum, the great- Coconut matting is the one useful est and best Polynesian collection, is that manufactured product of Hawaii that is of the Island Curio Company with its typical of the south seas, and the Pacific headquarters on Hotel Street, Honolulu, Fibre Co. at 1382 Liliha Street, phone opposite the Alexander Young Hotel. The 4033 is now actively engaged in the busi- McNamara brothers have taken over this ness of turning this out in great beauty institution, which for nearly half a century and variety of design. Coconut fibre mat- ting mattresses are everlasting, and these has been stacking up these native curios goods make a splendid and useful souvenir from almost every part of the island Pa- or present to be sent to friends in the cific. This is one of the show places of States as well as for home use in the the city. Phone No. 3747. islands of Hawaii. Hawaiian mahogany is worked up into The house furnished, then the yard, some of the most beautiful furniture in the and chicken raising in Honolulu gives a world. The wood for this, called "koa" profit of from fifty to one hundred per is turned out by the Pahoa Lumber Mills cent. The California Feed Co. of Hono- of Puna near Hilo, Hawaii, where mil- lulu will give full instructions to anyone lions of feet of the wonderful Hawaiian who is interested in chicken raising—as hardwood, ohia, are made into crossties for western American railways, as well as pre- to the best methods of procedure, how to pared for flooring, commercial uses, inter- start, how to avoid and cure "sore head," ior finishing and paving blocks, etc., Bishop and some general "dont's" in the raising & Co. in Honolulu being the agents. of chickens will be given free. Phone No. Hawaiian souvenir jewelry is always in 4121. great demand by both the tourist and the The famous writer and composer of resident. J. A. R. Vierra & Co. on Hotel popular Hawaiian songs, "Sonny Cunha", Street, near Fort, are the jewelers who make a specialty of this, as well as the is always found at the Honolulu Music handling of every kind of high class time Co. store on Fort St., above Hotel. Here pieces and modern jewelry. The engrav- is the piano salesroom of Honolulu, here ing plant and factory is on the same prem- the Hawaiian singers record their songs on ises with the show rooms, so that special discs, and here is the home of Music, orders may be quickly and accurately Sonny Cunha and the Honolulu Music turned out under the eyes of the men to whom are submitted the details. Company. THE MID-PACIFIC 17 Hotels and Boarding Houses

The Moana Hotel at Waikiki (under same management as the Alexander Young and the Royal Hawaiian.)

THE MAJESTIC, at the corner of Fort and CRATER HOTEL, Volcano Hawaii, A. T. Beretania Streets, is the most convenient Short, Proprietor. See Wells Fargo Ex- hotel for those who are employed down press Co., Paradise Tours, Inter-Island town. Rooms from a dollar a day up, and S. S. Co., Honolulu for special in- and from $3.50 a week. Rooms only. clusive excursion rates. Phone 2744. THE MACDONALD on Punahou Street THE BLAISDELL. The newest down town near the car line, a colonial building, hotel, occupying a block on Fort Street. spacious grounds. Rates from $1.50 a Splendid rooms from $1.00 a day and $20 day, $10 a week, $40 a month. Phone a month. Phone 1267. 1113. THE Y.W.C.A. has its reading, lunch- room and restaurant in the Boston Build- HUSTACE VILLA Waikiki Beach, superb ing, Fort Street. At the Homestead on bathing; twenty minutes by electric car King Street, excellent room and board from city. Rates $40 a month. Phone may be secured for $1.25 a day, $30.00 a 2826. month. Phone 1362. THE CASSIDY. On the beach. Family THE PACIFIC SANITORIUM, 1451 Kewalo cottages. Canoes for guests, splendid Street. Ideal for rest. Trained nurses in bathing. Get off the car at Cassidy Sta- abundance, from $25 a week. Phone 1153. tion. Rates $35 a month. Phone 2879. VIDA VILLA, 1040 King Street. Cars EL VERANO, G. W. Dyson, manager, at every five minutes to business center or to 1049 Beretania Street, Phone 2004, is a Waikiki. Many cottages, splendid grounds. charming cottage home hotel group di- $1.50 a day, $35 a month up. Phone 1146. rectly on the car line, the rates are $35 a THE DONNA, in the fashionable district, month up. cottages on Beretania, Keeaumoku and HALEKULANI, on the beach at Waikiki, Piikoi Streets. Permanent guests $45 a is the old Hau Tree, of which Mrs. C. N. month. Tourists in season. Phone 2480. Arnold is manager. Phone 1389. This is THE COURTLAND at the corner of Puna- an exclusive seaside house, the rates being hou and Beretania Streets, in the heart of from $60 a month up. the residence district on the car line. THE SWEET SHOP, on Hotel Street, op- Rates from $2.00 to $3.50 a day. Phone posite the Alexander Young, is the one 1934. reasonable priced tourist restaurant ; THE SEASIDE on famous Waikiki Beach. here there is a quartette of Hawaiian Cottages in a royal coconut grove. Rates singers and players, and here at every from $3.00 a day, $75 a month. Ideal hour may be enjoyed at very reasonable Tourist Hotel. Phone 4918. price the delicacies of the season. 18 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Banks of Honolulu

The First National Bank of Hawaii at the corner of Fort and King streets Hono- lulu. This bank is the de- pository in Hawaii of the U. S. Government.

The Banking House of Bishop & Co. was established August 17, 1858, and has oc- cupied its premises on the corner of Mer- chant & Kaahumanu Streets, since 1877. The operations of this Bank began with the encouragement of the whaling business, then the leading industry of the islands, and the institution has ever been closely identi- fied with the industrial and commercial progress of the Islands. The partners in the firm consist of Mr. S. M.Damon, Mr. Allen W. T. Bottomley and J. L. Cock- burn. On June 30, 1915 the deposits with this bank amounted to $7,555,975.03. Bank of Honolulu, Ltd., located on Fort street, is an old established financial ins- titution. It draws on the principal parts of the world, issues cable transfers, and transacts a general banking business. The Yokohama Specie Bank, a branch The entrance to the Bank of Hawaii, the central bank of Honolulu, witch a of the famous Japanese institution, with a capital, surplus and undivided profits subscribed capital of $24,000,000 and a amounting to nearly a million and a half, paid-up capital of $15,000,000, occupies its or more than the total of any other bank magnificent new building at the corner of in the Hawaiian Islands. It has its own Merchant and Bethel streets, opposite the magnificent building at the busiest busi- postoffice and Bishop & Co. It is the ness corner of Honolulu, Merchant and most up-to-date fireproof building in Ha- Fort streets ; has a savings department and waii, the interior being finished in bronze was organized in 1897. marble. THE MID-PACIFIC 19 The Trust Companies of Hawaii

The home of the Trent Trust Co. on Fort Street.

Honolulu was one of the first cities to are closely identified with the largest adopt the idea of the trust company, and business interests in the Territory. Its the Hawaiian Trust Co., organized in directors and officers are men of ability, 1898, was the first to be established on the integrity and high standing in the com- islands ; J. R. Galt is its present head. munity. The Company was incorporated in June of 1911 with a capital of $100,000 The Hawaiian Trust Co. was the first fully paid. Its rapid growth necessitated to be organized in Hawaii, in 1898, it now doubling this capital. On June 30th, 1913, occupies quarters built for it on King St., the Capital of the Company was $200,- near Fort, with safety vaults equal to al- 000 ; Surplus $10,000, and Undivided most any in America. The Hawaiian Profits $22,573.77. It conducts a trust Trust Co. has charge of nearly $10,000,- company business in all its various lines with offices in the Stangenwald Building, 000 worth of property. It insures build- Merchant St., adjoining Bank of Hawaii. ings, collects rents, makes repairs, pays The First Trust Co. of Hilo, Limited, taxes and turns over to heirs or owners is one of the rapidly growing institutions their just returns. The home of the Ha- of the Crescent City. Situated in the waiian Trust Co. is well worth a visit. Phone 1255. bank building it is in the heart of the business center and every year its business The Guardian Trust Company, Ltd., shows a substantial increase. C. C. Ken- is the most recently incorporated Trust nedy is President and H. B. Mariner, Company in Honolulu. Its stockholders Treasurer and Manager.

The Henry Waterhouse Trust Company occupies the ground floor of the Campbell block on Fort St., and partly on Merchant St. This is the business center of the city, here stocks and bonds are exchanged, insurance issued and real estate handled. Here is the home of the Kaimuki Land Co., and safety vaults. 20 THE MID-PACIFIC Stock, Bonds and Real Estate

STOCKS, BONDS & REAL ESTATE Hawaiian stocks and bonds is worth se- IN HAWAII. curing and considering. The Honolulu Stock and Bond Ex- James F. Morgan & Co., Ltd., in the Star-Bulletin Building on Merchant St., change has its board and exchange room in the Bank of Hawaii Building. Every is the old established real estate firm of the city. It has taken in new young year this organization issues a booklet on blood, and is progressive all along the "Hawaiian Securities", which may be had by addressing any member of the board. line. The members of the Honolulu Stock and C. H. Desky, the pioneer of extensive Bond Exchange are: real estate enterprises in Honolulu, has his office at 912 Fort Street, Phone 2161, William Williamson, of Williamson & where he represents the Woodlawn Land Buttolph, with their office at 83 Merchant Co., and the Mclnerny Tracts. Street, phone 1482. This firm can give Oliver G. Lansing, 80 Merchant St., much information concerning the value of Phone 3593, not only deals in real estate, the $10,000,000 worth of stocks sometimes but builds bungalow cottages for his sold by the members of the exchange dur- clients or rents them houses ready for oc- ing the year. cupation. Baldwin & Alexander, in the Bank of The Kaimuki Land Co., in the Henry Hawaii, Phone 1613, is the oldest and Waterhouse Trust Co. Ltd., Phone 1208, most reliable firm of surveyors in the Ter- still holds several choice tracts and lots ritory of Hawaii, and it is important to in the famous high residence district about have the advice of the Kamaaina, or old Diamond Head—healthful Kaimuki. resident. H. L. Kerr, the dean of Honolulu archi- J. R. Wilson at 925 Fort St., Phone tects, has his office in the McCandless 3666, is a real estate agent who handles Building. He has superintended the com- property in every section of Honolulu pletion of the McCandless building as and has had much experience on the coast, well as of houses innumerable in Honolulu. knowing the comparative value of prop- Phone 2187. erty. The dean of Honolulu land companies Albert F. Afong, whose office is at 832 is also located in this building, the Pablo Fort Street, Phone 2407, was born in Ho- Land and Improvement Co., A. F. Cooke nolulu, and knows the details of the sugar manager. Phone 2181. This company stocks, that in the aggregate pay nearly has splendid properties in Pablo Valley, $10,000,000 a year in dividends. and upon Wilhelmina Rise, which over- Giffard & Roth on the ground floor of looks Kaimuki and Diamond Head. the Stangenwald Building, Merchant St., Phone 2641, represented by H. B. Giffard, who from lifelong experience in Hawaii knows the real value of local stock and bonds. A. J. Campbell (former Territorial Treasurer) at 79 Merchant Street (Camp- bell Block) Phone 2326, is one of the kamaainas or old citizens, whose advice on THE MID-PACIFIC 21 The Alexander Young Building

The von Hamm Young Co., Importers, waiian News Co. stores of interest, as this Machinery Merchants and leading auto- concern is constantly adding new features mobile dealers, have their offices and store and new stock. The business man will in the Alexander Young Building, at the find his every need in the office is supplied corner of King and Bishop Streets, and by the Hawaiian News Co. merely on a their magnificent automobile salesroom and call over the phone, and this is true also garage just in the rear, facing on Alakea of the fashionable society leader, whether street. Here one may find almost any- her needs are for a bridge party, a dance, thing. Phone No. 4901. or just plain stationery. The exhibit rooms Next is the cable office, and then the of the Hawaiian News Co. are interesting. great store of the Hawaii & South Sea Phone No. 2294. Island Curio Co., where souvenirs from Next door is the great double store of every part of Hawaii and the Pacific are the Coyne Furniture Co., the largest in kept in stock. The spacious store is a Honolulu, and here may be studied all of veritable museum of Polynesia and the the latest importations in furniture from South Seas. There are the distinctive leis the coast, although the Coyne Furniture from each of the islands, Hawaiian uku- Co. has a local factory of its own, and leles, Samoan Tapa, Fijian war clubs; be- will undertake to manufacture any kind of sides souvenir cards and south sea photo- Hawaiian hard wood furniture that the graphs of every conceivable object. This customer may desire. In addition to the company has the curio concession in the big store there is a well filled store house, Hawaiian Building at the Panama Expo- for the Coyne Furniture Co. has equipped sition. Phone No. 1374. itself to fill any order for furniture in Ha- The largest of the very fashionable waii. Phone No. 2415. shops in the Alexander Young Building, Ernest Kaai, the famous Hawaiian mu- occupying the very central portion, is that sician, has his Hawaiian conservatory in of the Hawaiian News Co. Here the the Alexander Young Building, and here ultra-fashionable stationery of the latest he teaches the use of the native Hawaiian design is kept in stock. Every kind of ukulele. It is the Kaai Glee Club that paper, wholesale or retail is supplied, as provides all of the social music for Hono- well as printers' and binders' supplies. lulu. In Hawaii, people dance to vocal as There are musical instruments of every well as to instrumental music, and all of kind in stock, even to organs and pianos, Kaai's musicians are excellent singers, who and the Angelus Player Piano. Either the sing both in English and in Hawaiian. resident or the tourist will find the Ha- Phone 3687. 22 THE MID-PACIFIC Home Life in Honolulu

Honolulu's big department store, W. W. Dimond & Co., on King St. Phone 4937.

"Maile" Australian butter from the from a gallon of cream up is delivered Metropolitan Meat Market on King at once by auto truck. Street, stands at the head for flavor and Ice is a cheap commodity in Honolulu. keeping quality and is guaranteed. It is It is delivered at half a cent a pound or here you also get the tender meats and less, and of the best and purest quality. fresh vegetables of which an abundant The Oahu Ice and Electric Co. supplies supply is always on hand. Heilbron & the Army in Honolulu at a cheaper rate Louis, proprietors, have built up a won- than the United States Government can derful business until now the Metropolitan buy ice in Alaska. The works and cold Meat Market is the central and most storage rooms are in the Kakaako district, popular market place in Honolulu. Phone but a phone message to 1218 will answer. 1814. Henry May & Co. on Fort Street, oc- cupying the entire street floor of the The best thing on ice in Honolulu is Boston Building, are the leading grocers of soda water. The Consolidated Soda Water Honolulu. It would take hours to take Works Co., Ltd., 601 Fort Street, are the stock of the domestic and imported e,1;)1es largest in the Territory. Aerated waters and drinkables sold at this "housekeeper's cost from 35 cents a dozen bottles up. ally". Kona coffee (native) is a specialty The Consolidated Co. are agents for Hires as is the gas roaster and coffee mill. Every Root Beer and put up a Kola Mint steamer brings California fruits, vegetables aerated water that is delicious, besides a and farm products. Phone 1271. score of other flavors. Phone 2171 for a Love's Bakery at 1134 Nuuanu Street, case, or try a bottle at any store. Phone 1431, is the bakery of Honolulu. The best ice cream, and the most reason- Its auto wagons deliver each morning fresh able in price in Hawaii is Rawley's, Phone from the oven, the delicious baker's bread 4225. At the main office on Fort Street, and rolls consumed in Honolulu, while all near Beretania, butter is churned daily, the grocery stores carry the Love Bakery the milk coming direct from Rawley's crisp fresh crackers and biscuits that come dairy farm, where the fresh eggs on sale from the oven daily. Love's Bakery has in the store are also laid. For buttermilk the most complete and up to date machin- or ice cream visit Rawley's Any order ery and equipment in the territory. THE MID-PACIFIC 23 Honolulu Opportunities

al' IL

At the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, with its spacious Lanais, has been established a most excellent sanitarium under the able direction of I. N. Bartholomew, for many years with the Battle Creek institution. Here every kind of health-giv- ing treatment may be secured.

Next door to Sachs' is the Kodograph fastidious shoppers are drawn by the al- Shop. Here you may have your picture luring display of footwear shown in the taken in a moment on a post card, pur- artistic windows. Satisfaction is one of chase your kodak supplies, have films de- the assurances with which a purchase is veloped and printed, purchase photographs made, whether it be a pair of laces, or a of Hawaiian scenery from each and every pair of dainty evening slippers so neces- one of the islands, or select an assortment sary to the happiness of the well dressed of curios and souvenirs for yourself or to woman of today. A general line of shoes send to friends in other parts of the world ; from heavy boots suitable for out of doors, or you may order views made of any bit to dame fashion's latest dictation for the of scenery that interests you, for the ballroom, is carried for the hosts of Kodograph Shop has its corps of land- friends and patrons of the firm. Seldom scape photographers. Phone No. 3336. does this attractive store front escape the eye of the visitor to Honolulu. Once in- Centrally located, in Honolulu's com- side one finds a courteous force of sales- modious shopping district, is the Manu- men ever on the alert to minister to the facturer's Shoe Co., Ltd. Here the most wants of particular people. 24 THE MID-PACIFIC Greater Honolulu

The Works of the Hawaiian Fertilizer Co., Ltd. This Company Stores its Fertilizer in Honolulu in the Largest Concrete Building West of the Rockies.

Whitney & Marsh at 1045 Fort Street, Next to the Marconi Wireless on Fort in the center of the fashionable shopping Street is the Office Supply Co., the home district, maintain the foremost children's of the Remington Typewriter in Hawaii, and ladies' furnishing house in Honolulu. and the Globe-Wernicke filing and book A specialty is made of fine lingerie and cases. Every kind of office furniture is children's clothing, while mothers find kept in stock by the Office Supply Co. as every style in fashionable wear direct from well as a complete line of office stationery. Paris and New York. The "Ladies Home There is a repair shop for typewriters, and Journal" patterns are kept, and French every necessary article that the man of handmade underwear and dresses for business might need. Phone 3843. women and children is a specialty. Phone Honolulu is so healthy that people don't 1725. usually die there, but when they do they The Mutual Telephone Co. works in phone in advance to Henry H. Williams, close accord with the Marconi Wireless, 1146 Fort street, phone number 1408, and controls the wireless service between and he arranges the after details. If you the Hawaiian Islands, as well as the tele- are a tourist and wish to be interred in phone service throughout Hawaii. For a dollar and a half a night letter of twenty- your own plot on the mainland, Williams five words may be sent to any part of the will embalm you ; or he will arrange all territory. Honolulu was the first city in details for interment in Honolulu. Don't the world to install a house to house tele- leave the Paradise of the Pacific for any phone system, and Hawaii the first country other, but if you must, let your friends to commercially install wireless telegraphy. talk it over with Williams. THE MID-PACIFIC For the Tourist

Hawaii is the Big Island. Hilo is the chief port and from Hilo excursions are made up to all the points of interest. The Hilo Board of Trade has recently taken up the matter of home promotion work and is developing the wonderful scenic surroundings of Hilo. Trails are being cut to the beauty spots, and roads put in The Honolulu Automobile Stand at order. It was the Hilo Board of Trade Hotel and Alakea streets, Phone 1005, that called the first civic convention which has a splendid rent service at very mod- is now bringing all the Hawaiian Islands erate rates and a complete repair shop. together to work for each other. The "White Wings" is the call for Taxis Hilo Board of Trade is taking the lead in in Honolulu, as that emblem is the trade- Home Promotion work in these islands. mark on the Honolulu Taxi-cab. Every- In this line of work the Hilo Board of one now uses the taxi, as this is the cheap- Trade has the hearty co-operation of the est way, and to have one of the White Hilo Railway. This Railway has recently Wings call for you, all that is necessary extended its rails thirty-two miles along is to signal a "White Wings" on the the precipitous coasts of Lapauhoehoe and street, call at the spacious garage on Nuu- beyond. This thirty-two mile rail trip is anu near Beretania, or better still just one of the scenic trips of the world. The phone 4988. Hilo Railway also extends in the opposite The Reliable Auto Shop, at Queen and direction to the hot springs of Puna, and a Richards streets, has the largest workshop branch with the Auto Service takes the and yard area of any repair works in tourist from the steamer wharf to the edge Honolulu. William Hale and his own of the ever active Kilauea. white assistants make the repairs, and are If you have films, or need supplies, The on call day and night for assistance or Honolulu Photo Supply Co., Kodak head- supplies if you but ring up 4244. quarters, Fort Street, develops and prints The Auto Service and Supply Co., Ltd., for tourists within a few hours. All has its headquarters in Honolulu at the photo supplies, films, film packs, plates, corner of Merchant and Alakea streets. cameras, island scenes, photographs, etc., This concern has the exclusive agency for always in stock. Developing 4x5 plates the best of Auto, Motorcycle and Bicycle or film packs, 70 cents a dozen; roll films, tires, the "Goodyear". It has an excellent 60 cents a dozen; printing, 70 cents. Fresh vulcanizing department, handles the Mono- films packed in hermetically-sealed tins for gram oils and greases and the Minute use in the tropics at no extra charge. metal polish for Hawaii. Phone 4688. The Honolulu Welding & Machine Co., Duncan's Gymnasium, 258 Beretania 207 Queen street, phone 3184, is the com- Street, near Central Union Church, is the plete establishment of its king in Hono- most useful institution in Honolulu. In lulu. This concern has grown until it this perfectly equipped establishment men now occupies spacious quarters with the and boys are made strong, they are treated latest up-to-date auto repair and welding and trained scientifically, and a visit to machinery of every description, and the most expert workmen in the territory. the delightfully located gymnasium build- Phone 3184. ing is well worth while. Phone 3524. 26 THE MID-PACIFIC Womens Needs

B. F. Ehlers & Co., the leading wo man's store in Honolulu, occupies the largest space in the fashionable Fort Str eet block between King and Hotel Sts.

The leading music store in Hawaii is anese dry goods, curios, silks and general also on this block—The Bergstrom Music merchandise. The business was establish- Co. No home is complete in Honolulu ed in 1905. Address P. 0. Box 876, or without a ukulele, a piano and a Victor phone 1375. talking machine. The Bergstrom Music At 1130 Fort Street, almost next to the Co., with its big store on Fort Street, will Hollister Drug Co. is the very fashion- provide you with these—a Chickering, a able millinery firm of MacGregor & Blatt. Weber, a Kroeger for your mansion, or a Phone 3735. The ladies of this firm tiny upright Boudoir for your cottage; make a specialty of importing the very and if you are a transient it will rent you latest ideas from Paris and New York, a piano. The Bergstrom Music Co., while for those who are interested in Ha- phone 2331. waiian straw hats, they have these made One of the largest Japanese merchan- by Hawaiians and adapt them to the latest dising establishments in the Islands is that modes in trimmings. I" is millinery store controlled and managed by Taisuke Mura- in the very heart of the shopping district, kami and located at 32-34 Hotel Street, maintains an excellent show room in which near Nuuanu street, Honolulu. This firm imports direct from the Orient and may be studied everything that is stylish deals both wholesale and retail in Jap- in women's headwear.

Above is pictured a part of the interior of the leading store on this main thorough- fare—that of H. F. Wichman & Co.,—jewelers, which occupies nearly half of the block between King and Fort Streets. THE MID-PACIFIC 27

Man's Needs

Silva's Toggery, on King Street, exhibits the finest display of Men's and Boys' Clothing to be seen in Ha- waii. Everything to equip the polite man is kept in stock.

For shoes—the Walkover, the best in The Union Pacific Transfer Co. Ltd., quality and most durable for use in Ha- 176 South King Street, Phone 1875, is the waii—it is necessary to call on the Jacob- convenient call for those who wish any son Bros. Shoe Store in the Pantheon moving done, or who are about to make a Building, Hotel St., near Fort. The kind trip, or who have friends arriving on any of shoe that is needed for the climate and steamer. The offices of the Union Pacific wear in Honolulu is kept in stock in great Transfer Co. on King Street adjoin the variety and it is well to try the Walkover. Alexander Young Building, and are op- Phone 3601. posite the Lewers & Cooke Building—con- The White Seal Laundry Co. Ltd. is venient to all. the latest word in Hawaii in the careful The City's great furniture store, that of washing, cleaning and repairing of shirts J. Hopp & Co., occupies a large portion of rid all kinds of clothing. With the latest the Lewers & Cooke Block on King St. and best equipment of laundry machinery, Here the latest styles in home and office it is backed, owned and operated by several furniture arriving constantly from San of Honolulu's leading citizens, and its Francisco, are displayed on several spacious work is the best in the city. Phone 5081. floors. Phone No. 2111.

A corner of H. Culman's factory. The sales rooms are at the corner of Hotel and Fort Streets, Honolulu. Hawaiian Jewelry and Curios. 28 THE MID-PACIFIC Home Building in Honolulu

Entrance of Lewers & Cooke's large establishment.

The Pacific Engineering Co., with spac- rock used in the construction of the mod- ious offices in the Yokohama Specie Bank ern building in Hawaii. They also main- Building, are engineers and constructors tain their own stables and drays. Draying of buildings of every kind, from the smallest in Honolulu is an important business, and private residence to the largest and most Hustace-Peck are the pioneers in this line, imposing blocks. Being composed of some and keep drays of every size, sort and de- of the most prominent men in the islands, scription for the use of those who require it is not surprising that it has secured them. They also conduct a rock crusher large and important contracts, including and supply wood and coal. the construction of the new Y.M.C.A. The Honolulu Construction & Draying Ripley & Davis, in the Boston Building, Co. has its offices at 65 Queen Street. A Phone 3003, were the architects of the pos 1 or telephone call, 2281, will be re- magnificent National Guard of Hawaii sponded to by a foreman, who will give Armory, of the new office building of the full particulars and a careful estimtae. Honolulu Iron Works, and of many of There is nothing in the building and con- Honolulu's most distinguished buildings. struction line that this company is not Their designs of residences are equal in splendidly qualified to undertake. It also effect to their work on the public build- maintains an excellent and reliable baggage ings that help to beautify Honolulu. express service. Its directors and managers Hustace-Peck & Co., Ltd., on Queen are among the responsible business men of Street, Phone 2295, prepare the crushed the city. THE MID-PACIFIC 29 The Regal Shoe in Honolulu

The home of the "Regal Shoe" in Honolulu at the corner of Fort and Hotel Streets.

You cannot miss the sign of "Davison The leaders of fashion in women's hats Gowns" above that of "Ye Regal" at the are also located in this building. Mesdames corner of Hotel and Fort streets, Hono- Milton and Parsons display in their Fort lulu's two leading thoroughfares. The up- Street windows the latest creations in per front of this most modern building of ladies' hatwear, while in this building, Honolulu's shopping district is occupied by connecting with the show rooms, they have the foremost and largest dressmaking estab- an efficient force of expert workers who, lishment in Hawaii. The entrance is on under the personal guidance of Mesdames Fort Street near Hotel. They carry the Milton & Parsons, carry out the wishes of latest creations in modish gowns. Here customers in creating the most effective the latest fashions of New York, London headwear suited to the customer or the and Paris are made up by imported work- dress with which the hat is to be worn. men of world-wide experience. You do Visitors may be quickly fitted with the not have to wait for your gown to come best and most appropriate hatwear. Phone from New York—Davison makes it pos- 3088. sible for you to keep just ahead of the ar- The Ukulele is the Hawaiian musical riving styles in Honolulu. Phone No. 3857. instrument that has become known the world over. The real Hawaiian ukulele The American-Hawaiian Paper Co. is manufactured by Jonah Kumalae at Ltd., at Queen and Fort streets, are the 1719 Liliha Street, phone 2384. Here a big importers, via the Panama Canal, of force of Hawaiian workmen who know paper of every kind ; from that used by and love the ukulele are kept employed on the daily newspapers to the most delicate the manufactory of this remarkable little ladies' notepaper. Every thing in station- instrument, and from this factory the curio ery and office supplies may be purchased stores of Hawaii as well as the music here, either wholesale or retail. Phone 1410. stores of the mainland are supplied. 30 THE MID-PACIFIC

E. 0. Hall & Son, Cor. Fort and King Streets.

Chambers Drug Store, Fort and King and the art department is complete. This Streets, is the actual center of life and is the oldest dry goods store in Honolulu, activity in Honolulu. Here at the inter- and under a new management it is becom- section of the tram lines, the shoppers, ing the most enterprising. The store is business men, and tourists await their cars, under the personal direction of an ener- chatting at the open soda fountain, that is getic manager, and shopping on Fort Street the feature of Chambers Drug Store. Here is not complete without a visit to Jordan's. the tourist and stranger is advised as to In planning your home or other struc- the sights of the city, and supplied with ture, Emory & Webb the architects at any perfumes, candies or drugs he may 925 Fort Street can give you splendid as- need during his stay. Chambers Drug istance, showing their plans or many Store is one of the institutions of Hono- lulu. Phone No. 1291. homes and structures designed to suit the climate, and that have already been built At Jordan's, on Fort Street, you will in Honolulu. The pictures of some of usually find a sale in progress. This is the store of bargains in silks and notions. these may be seen in these pages. Call or The McCall Patterns are kept in stock, phone 1106.

The Standard Optical Company on Fort Street above Hotel. Telephone 3875. THE MID-PACIFIC 31 Oriental Honolulu

The most interesting spot in the Ori- A monument to the pluck and energy of ental quarter is the Chinese restaurant of Mr. C. K. Ai and his associates is the Yee Yi Chan, at 119 Hotel Street, the City Mill Co. of which he is treasurer best Oriental eating house in the city. and manager. This plant at Queen and Here, upstairs, you may enjoy a simple Kekaulike Streets is one of Honolulu's Chinese meal or an elaborate banquet, as leading enterprises, doing a flourishing you wish. lumber and mill business. Mr. Chu Gem, Honolulu's most re- Mr. K. 0. Kam, manager and organizer spected Chinese business man, is a director of the City Mercantile Co. at 24 Hotel of the Home Insurance Co., and head of Street, Honolulu, is ranked as one of the the firm of Quong Sam Kee Co., at the rising young business men of the city. The corner of King and Maunakea St., which company deals in all household utensils, supplies the local dealers of the territory and courteous treatment is extended to all with drugs and general merchandise. who do business with them. To the tourist and visitor, the drug Mr. Lee Chu of the Lee Chu Lumber stores in the Chinese quarter are fascinat- Co. at Pauahi and River Streets, was the ing and interesting in the extreme. The first Chinese to engage in the lumber busi- best of these are conducted by Yang Cheu ness in Hawaii, and his steadily growing Kiam, one at 1071 Aala St., one at 1036 business denotes him to be a leader in the Maunakea Street, and one at the corner lumber trade, as his well stocked yards in- of Beretania and Fort Streets. Mr. Yang dicate. Mr. Lee Chu is the principal own- came to Honolulu in 1882 and has amas- er and manager of this large and pro- sed a fortune. gressive company. People on Oahu can telephone 1484, and Whatever you do, do not fail to visit those away will have their needs promptly the wonderful Oahu Fish Market on King attended to by writing to Kwong Yuen Street. Early morning is the best time for Hing Co., P. 0. Box 992, Honolulu, this, when all the multi-colored fish of Hawaii. Hawaiian waters are presented to view Mr. Goo Kim Fook stands as a leader and every nationality of the islands is on among the Chinese, and as part owner and parade inspecting. Mr. Y. Anin is the manager of the Kong Sang Yuen Co. dry leading spirit and founder of the Oahu goods store at 1071 Nuuanu St., between Fish Market, which is a Chinese institu- King and Hotel Streets, and receives the tion of which the city is proud. trade of all nationalities. Mr. Fook's son Also on King Street at the corner of is associated with him in business at the Bethel, is the dry goods emporium of Yee Kong Sang Yuen Co. store. Chan & Co. Here may be seen a splendid Unadulterated bread and pastry is an display of imported Chinese and Japanese essential need in every home—the Sam Wo silks, all kinds of fancy dry goods, grass Co. bakery at 384 North Beretania St., linen goods, clothing, hats, shoes, trunks, under the management of S. Lum Fat, has travelling cases, etc. All tourists are in- for years supplied the homes of Honolulu vited to visit Yee Chan & Co. with pure bread and pastry. 1 32 THE MID-PACIFIC New York to Hawaii

American-Hawaiian S. S. Co. Steamers, plying between New York and via the Panama Canal and San Francisco. Approximate time in transit, 38 days. There are two ways to Australia and Otago Region, and the industrial induce- New Zealand from San Francisco and ments that draw people to the most solid Vancouver via Hawaii. city of New Zealand—Dunedin. In New Zealand there are live, ener- If you intend visiting New Zealand you getic cities that believe that in working for should write for advance information from the prosperity of the country about them, the Secretary of the "Dunedin Expansion they enhance their own. League," Dunedin. The "Dunedin Expansion League" has With the wood that is used for building achieved remarkable results for the won- in Hawaii, Allen & Robinson on Queen derful, rich and scenic region of Otago in Street, Phone 2105, have for generations supplied the people of Honolulu and those the South Island. The "Dunedin Expansion League" goes on the other islands; also their buildings and paints. Their office is on Queen St., so far as to offer excellent factory sites to manufacturers who will build factories in near the Inter-Island S. N. Co. Building, and their lumber yards extend right back the neighborhood of Dunedin. The "Dunedin Expansion League" with to the harbor front, where every kind of hard and soft wood grown on the coast is its offices in the Stock Exchange Buildings in Dunedin, gets out some excellent litera- landed by the schooners that ply from ture descriptive of the Cold Lakes of the Puget Sound.

One of the kind of buildings completed almost weekly in Honolulu by the Lord-Young Engineering Co., Ltd.