This Is Haida Gwaii Tadswii’ • Kaats’Ii Hla
COMPLIMENTARY This is haida gwaii TAdSWII’ • Kaats’ii Hla
PEOPLE | CULTURE | PLACE SUMMER YOUR HAIDA GWAII TRIP PLANNER 2019 GOHAIDAGWAII.CA | HAIDANATION.CA sii.NGa summer EDiTiOn SanggAd
Soaring above Taaw Tow Hill. Photo: Gregory Gould
The name of this publication, This is Editor SIMON DAVIES Copyright © Council of the Haida Nation | goHaidaGwaii | 2019 Haida Gwaii, is bracketed by two phrases Designer | Illustrator JENNIFER BAILEY All artworks © the artists – tadswii’, which is in the HlGaagilda Advertising Management ALANAH MOUNTIFIELD, JANINE NORTH All texts © the authors Xaayda Kil Haida southern dialect, and Contributors GRAHAM RICHARD, ANDREW HUDSON All images © the photographers and/or holding institutions kaats’ii hla, in the Gaw Xaad Kil Haida JASKWAAN BEDARD, NESTAQANA STACEY 'JAGS' BROWN, northern dialect. Both phrases are a GREGORY GOULD, TAAWHLUUWAD MARY HELMER, All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, response to a knock on the door – come MIRANDA POST, NANG KAA KLAAGANGS ERNIE GLADSTONE, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any on in! The phrases acknowledge a guest’s TRACY MARRS, SGIID KUNG VANESSA BELLIS, JENNY NELSON, means, without the prior written consent of the publisher, the Council of the Haida Nation | Go Haida Gwaii presence, and welcome them into the BRIANNA JULIAN, JARROD FREGIN, LAURA BISHOP, house, and that’s what this publication LAWRENCE JONES, PHOEBE DYKSTRA, GUY KIMOLA, MONICA PHUNG, OWEN PERRY, ILEAH MATTICE, DESTINATION BC is – an acknowledgment and welcome to Council of the Haida Nation @CHNHaidaNation @CHNHaidaNation you into our home. Haida Gwaii Tourism @HGTourism @GoHaidaGwaii Want to advertise in This is Haida Gwaii? Contact [email protected] or call 250-559-8050 elcome to Haida Gwaii, you show your self-respect by coming. Haawa Wfor following your heart and accepting the pull of our homeland. Whether you have arrived by sea or air you are meant to be here, right now, as our guest. For many of the people of Haida Gwaii there is a strong belief that everything is connected and that everything happens for a reason. With this in mind please accept the responsibility of being a good guest in our home. There are many ways to demonstrate this. One way is by sharing and practicing reciprocity. We are sharing our lives with you, our knowledge, food, water, lands, homes, families and communities.
In honoring your invitation to visit us, it is important to give back to this place and to contribute more than you have taken. This is how we maintain balance here. Balancing our needs as people with all of the creatures who share their lives and territory with us. We also must balance our relationships as hosts and guests and with the supernatural forces that surround us. When our rela- tionships are disrupted and become out of balance this is when we end up in trouble as human beings. Here humans are equal to all of the rest of creation. Gaagwiis Jason Alsop We are no more important than any other being, large or small. President of the Haida Nation So, as you move about and experience all the magic our home has to offer, please take a moment to appreciate all of the small things and beauty that sur- rounds us. Reflect upon your life and your place within this world and how you can give back and make things better for the future. You are here for a reason, you don’t have to search for why, if you move with respect the truth will reveal itself. A wave crashing, a hummingbird flying, a whale breaching, an eagle calling or a raven stealing your lunch – all happening around us – and we are all part of creation, so please act accordingly.
Ging gang da yahgudangs ang.Ga da Kaa Kyang.ga Gil ga. You show your self-respect by coming.
Gaagwiis
A NOTE ON HAIDA LANGUAGE USE: In this publication, the geographic
A clam shell pathway guides the way location of the story determines which dialect is used. For the stories located at T'aanuu. north of Gamadiis Port Clements we use Gaw Xaad kil and for those south of Gamadiis we use HlGaagilda Xaayda Kil. Photo: Owen Perry
4 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 5 Education at SK’AADGA GUD AD IS, LEARNING TOGETHER the edge of the world
The Haida Gwaii Institute is a cross-cultural, community-based education and research post-secondary institution that is governed by both the Haida Gwaii Higher Education Society and University of British Columbia’s Faculty of Forestry.
The institute offers transformative post-secondary undergraduate and professional development programming in the areas of Indigenous/non-Indigenous relations, community resilience, natural resource management and marine conservation.
To find a course right for you please visit hginstitute.ca.
Haida Gwaii Institute is located on the ancestral, traditional and unceded territory of the Haida Nation. 6 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII Located on the Government Wharf in Queen Charlotte, we are open daily for sport fish receiving from 4-7pm via boat to the lower dock or vehicle to the plant. SANDSPIT Our federally inspected facility will: portion, vac pack, blast freeze, and pack your freshly caught catch for next day pickup or we Gateway to Moresby Island and Gwaii Haanas Customcan arrange Sport delivery Fish to Processing Sandspit Airport. LocatedWe carry at the enda variety of the causeway of frozen on thelocal Government & BC products Dock in Queenthat Charlotte, you can we add are opento your Daily box from to June take through home. Labour Day between 4-7pm for sport fish receiving via boat to the lower dock or vehicle to the plant. 250-559-4784 Our Federally Inspected Facility Will: Portion, vac pack, blast freeze and pack yourwww.albion.ca fresh catch for next day pickup. We carry a variety of frozen products that you can add to your order to take home. Come see us about ice, wholesale seafood, and air travel packaging.
(250)-637-1792
VISITOR CENTRE 250-637-5362 250-637-5377 250-637-5377
Located inside the Airport terminal, the Conveniently located across from the Transportation can be a challenge to Sandspit Visitor Centre provides helpful Airport Terminal, the Sandspit Inn offers arrange in Haida Gwaii. The Sandspit guidance, souvenirs and a collection of comfortable accommodation and a full- bus offers service in town and beyond. art and artisan products from Haida Gwaii. service restaurant and bar. Stop in before Booking ahead is recommended. Stop in before your flight home to pick up or after your flight, stay one night or many Give us a call and we’ll help get you on the perfect gift. and enjoy the warm welcome of Sandspit. your way.
[email protected] [email protected] [email protected] sandspitinn.com
The Sandspit Community Society is an incorporated not-for-profit society that operates for the benefit of the community of Sandspit. The Society is run by a volunteer board of residents who wish to sustain the economic and social well-being of our cresthotel.bc.ca 1-800-663-8150 community by sustaining local businesses and social projects. SANDSPITBC.CA
8 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 9 Timeless Voices, Living Culture 2 UNIQUE ALL-INCLUSIVE RESORTS 2 WAYS TO EXPERIENCE HAIDA GWAII Haida Heritage Centre AT KAY LLNAGAAY Experience the living culture of the Haida
LUXURY MEETS ADVENTURE Escape to the spectacular west-coast of Haida Gwaii and explore ancient Haida villages where few have set foot, dine on gourmet meals, and relax in luxury un- common for such remoteness.
OCEANHOUSE.CA · 1.800.605.3785 Photo © Rolf Bettner
Canoe House | Performing House | Bill Reid Teaching Centre | Carving Shed THE HEART OF ISLAND CULTURE Cafe | Meeting Rooms Available for Rental Conveniently located in the village of Tlell, this cozy lodge is the ideal base Haida Gwaii Museum | Trading House | Daily Guided Tours Throughout the Summer from which to enjoy the many cultur- al experiences the Island has to offer. Self-guided options also available. Open Year Round HAIDAHOUSE.COM · 1.855.557.4600 DISCOVER THE EDGE OF THE WORLD 2 Second Beach Road, P.O. Box 1523 Learn more about lodge amenities, package HAIDA GWAII, BRITISH COLUMBIA Skidegate, Haida Gwaii, B.C. V0T 1S1 inclusions and excursions online.
haidaheritagecentre.com haidagwaiimuseum.ca 250-559-7885 | [email protected] [email protected] 10 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 11 Respect. Transparency. Innovation. Entrepreneurialism. A&A TRADING (HAIDA GWAII) LTD. COMMITTED TO RESPONSIBLE STEWARDSHIP SANDSPIT A&A Trading (Haida Gwaii) Ltd. forester identifying a Pacific crab apple tree which has protections under the Fresh meat, produce, ice, dairy, Haida Gwaii Land Use Objectives Order grocery items. In-store bakery. Rural Agency Liquor Store. Locally owned and operated.
Summer Store Hours: Monday to Saturday: 9:00am to 6:00pm Tuesday open until 7:00pm | Sunday: 9:00am to 4:00pm Our forest management decisions integrate environmental, cultural, and economic interests. We build mutual understanding Phone: 250-637-2249/2447 through relationships and information sharing. www.aatrading.com A & A TRADING Email: [email protected]
12 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 13 SHINGLE ABSENCE OF BAY BISTRO CHARLISLE TIME HOUSE • Family owned and operated • Cafe serving up coffee, hot drinks and so Clothing, housewares, gifts, toys, fabric and much more! • Two high-end, fully contained • accommodation suites available souvenirs • Hot breakfasts or lunches while you wait for A real old-fashioned general store with a your flight • Private and quiet • On the shore of Skidegate Inlet little bit of everything :) • Baked goods and cold drinks • Opened in July 2006, this romantic get away dances with light through Queen Charlotte’s original general store opened in 1967 and it’s still going Fresh. Delicious. Convenient. its large skylights and generous windows overlooking the bay. The one- strong today. Stocked with an eclectic blend of a little bit of everything, visitors Enjoy a cup of coffee, breakfast or lunch with friends or while you wait for your L ve bedroom, fully contained suite downstairs offers a private queen bed with L ve and locals alike will find a variety of goods from clothing and accessories to L ve flight! haidagwaii two additional queen-size Murphy beds. Upstairs, guests will find a fully haidagwaii housewares and souvenirs. haidagwaii Hours: Daily 8:00a.m. to 9:30 a.m. and 11:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. .com contained three-bedroom suite. .com .com 1 Airport Road • Sandspit 604-616-7091 • 3808 Oceanview Drive • Queen Charlotte 250-559-8444 • 104 Causeway • Queen Charlotte discover the possibilities ABALONE GREENROOT Sandspit Adventures offers a full EYES HOUSE GUESTHOUSE service fishing and eco-lodge, on • A modern, clean, two-bedroom and fully the edge of Sandspit, BC. contained waterfront suite • Hand-worked, original design, bright and • Amazing views from the shore of Skidegate attractive With 20 plus rooms to accommo- Inlet • Centrally located near shops and the marina Situated above local art gallery date groups up to 40 at one time. Abalone Eyes House is where you peek at the world and think “I should have • Our cozy lodge has a relaxed been a poet” or “wish I didn’t have to work — this is where I would have Greenroot Guesthouse is an artisan-designed centrally located vacation atmosphere, comfortable rooms, retired” or simply “I could easily live here.” I say “it’s lovely” I am sure you will rental available for nightly and weekly rentals. The accommodation can amazing cuisine and spectacular agree - outfitted from head to toe - although I don’t think abalone have either L ve Breathe it in be found in a local heritage building that has been lovingly restored and L ve views. of those things - but you almost view the world as they see it. See it for yourself, haidagwaii Handcrafted soap renovated to offer an artistic and relaxing vacation get away. haidagwaii you will know what I mean. .com & body products Email [email protected] .com sandspitadventures.ca 1-888-637-2210 [email protected] 604-616-7091 • 3604 Oceanview Drive • Queen Charlotte islandwisehaidagwaii.com 250-551-4611 • 3201 Oceanview Drive • Queen Charlotte
TOURS - BOAT TRANSPORTATION - KAYAK RENTALS WELCOME TO HAIDA GWAII EAGLE TRANSIT AIRPORT SHUTTLE
GOING TO SKIDEGATE OR QUEEN CHARLOTTE COST $27 CASH OR $30 DEBIT/CC
Departs the airport 15 minutes after plane arrives Haida Owned & Operated since 2016 [email protected] | 1-800-806-7633 Phone 250-559-4461 • eagletransit.net NH Connections Haida Gwaii • Freight Services • Taxi
14 Meet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com Accommodations Tourism/Adventure Artisan/Business Store/Restaurant Accommodations Tourism/AdventureArtisan/Business Store/Restaurant Meet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com 15 JUNEBUG PREMIER SKYFALL CREEK HAIDA GWAII CAFÉ & GIFTS FISHING CHARTERS COTTAGE • Quaint and cozy cafe serving up fair-trade World-class salmon and halibut fishing LODGING • • New oceanside two-bedroom, two-bathroom espresso, gelato and so much more! Fishing adventures and wilderness tours • Spacious rooms with spectacular ocean • retreat with full modern kitchen and laundry • Showcases a large selection of locally made, with a professional guide views • Perfect accommodation for two couples sustainable products and delicious treats Charters available from Masset and Queen • Kitchenette rooms available • • Five minute walk to the centre of Queen • Regularly hosts workshops and social Charlotte (upon request) events for the community • Hotel plus backpacker’s cottage Charlotte Cozy. Eclectic. Family friendly. Warm. Eclectic. Funky. Modern. Natural. Relaxing on the Ocean’s Edge. Come fishing with us around the pristine waters of Haida Gwaii. If you haven’t already checked it out, Junebug Café and Gifts is the perfect Comfort and hospitality await visitors to Haida Gwaii at Premier Creek Lodging. “Beyond Awesome! What a superb location & fantastically friendly owners. They Experience rich wildlife, beautiful remote scenery, and bring home spot to enjoy a little treat after a day full of adventure. This cozy, family-friendly Centrally located, the hotel is a stone’s throw from the ocean and within easy go above & beyond to make us feel at home” -John Hermsen, Footprint Nature Explorations L ve L ve unforgettable memories. Book your adventure now! L ve L ve establishment checks all the boxes: a sunny deck, decadent gelato, fair-trade haidagwaii walking distance of shops, the post office, laundromat, library and restaurants. haidagwaii haidagwaii Book with [email protected] or Airbnb.ca/rooms/20136532 haidagwaii haidagwaiifishingcharters.com | michaelmayrcreates.com coffee, aromatic espresso, snacks, goodies and so much more! .com More information at haidagwaii.net/premier/ .com .com facebook.com/skyfallcottagehaidagwaii Skyfall-cottage.business.site .com 778-260-1234 • 223 Oceanview Drive • Queen Charlotte 250-559-8415 • 3101 Oceanview Dr • Queen Charlotte 250-637-1056 • Masset • [email protected] 250-614-8128 • 3520 Oceanview Dr • Queen Charlotte THE LAST HOWLER’S RESORT SUN PRIVATE SWORD • One- and two-bedroom suites LIQUOR STORE FERN INN Conveniently located close to the ocean and STUDIO • Private liquor store • Range of accommodation options features fabulous mountain view Yoga and meditation classes for all levels • • Full selection of spirits, wines, coolers • Attention to detail Email [email protected] or Art and dance classes for kids • • • Open seven days a week, excluding • An authentic taste of the local culture [email protected] Creative and dynamic classes, with • • Christmas Day • Email [email protected] engaging workshops Unique. Personal. Relaxing. Comfortable. The Last Resort is the perfect home base to explore all that Haida Gwaii has Inspiring. Uplifting. Empowering. Situated on the corner of Wharf Street and Oceanview Drive, facing the ocean Sword Fern Inn (formerly Dorothy & Mike’s) is a reflection of the to offer. Each suite features brand new furniture and decor. Enjoy comfortable Sun Studio is dedicated to yoga instruction as well as promoting arts and on the ground floor of the Misty Harbour Inn. Make this “one stop” liquor store independent spirit of the people who choose to make the islands “at the queen beds, a modern kitchen, relaxing sitting area, large walk-in showers, L ve culture within the community of Queen Charlotte. To see our class schedules L ve your choice for your adult beverages and accessories. Make sure you check out L ve L ve edge of the world” home. Each room, each suite is unique, with its own a covered deck lounge with barbecues and more. Laundry services are haidagwaii and for more information, go to sunstudiohaidagwaii.com haidagwaii our selection of cold beer, ciders, and coolers - we’re pretty proud to say it’s haidagwaii haidagwaii available for a small fee. .com .com probably the widest selection in the Northwest! .com special ambiance and amenities. swordferninn.com .com 403-304-2037 • 621 2nd Ave • Queen Charlotte 250-637-1571 • 403 Oceanview Dr • Queen Charlotte 250-559-8600 • [email protected] • Queen Charlotte 250-559-8439 • 3127 2nd Ave • Queen Charlotte
GwaiiTaxiandTours.ca CHATEAU NORM Taxi • Beautiful oceanside accommodations on 250-637-1162 Haida Gwaii • A relaxing location for experiencing the natural wonders of our islands • An unforgettable experience Skidegate & Queen Charlotte area Welcoming. Breathtaking. Natural. Relax on the deck of Chateau Norm while drinking in the sights and • 15 passenger van – for tours or charter sounds of the Canadian Galapagos. L ve • Vehicle Rentals – later model sedans, SUVs, chateaunorm.com haidagwaii 4X4, trucks and mini-vans .com Queen Charlotte • Tours – custom designed island tours 250-559-8455 • 4112 Oceanview Dr • Queen Charlotte Visitor Centre We are pleased to offer licensed taxi services THE Inside our longhouse-inspired, wheelchair-accessible centre you with airport access for the communities of Queen Organic Groceries, Local Foods, will be greeted by our friendly and resourceful staff. Charlotte and Skidegate; as well as custom, Produce and Dairy Products, PHANTOM We offer a local artisan gallery, an extensive gift shop, a touch comfortable, hassle-free tours, booking services tank saltwater aquarium, a media area screening local DVDs, and and vehicle rentals. KITCHEN Local Fish & Seafood, Cheeses, Books, a 3D map table of Haida Gwaii. Also available are washrooms, a Serving up delicious and hearty food-truck fare All major credit cards accepted! • Bodycare, Vitamins, Gluten Free Foods • Local Halibut in a San Miguel batter waterfront picnic area, a large parking lot, and Wi-Fi. • Soul food to feed everyone Delicious. Good Food. Family friendly. Tours & Rentals 3220 Wharf St, Queen Charlotte Wharf Street The Phantom Kitchen is located at 321 Oceanview Drive, in front of the Hecate Open year round Inn. Our vision is to bring in our delicious Filipino culture and tie it with the L ve 250-559-2380 (across from Visitor Centre), Summer hours: 9a.m. to 7.pm., seven days a week beautiful resources of Haida Gwaii. haidagwaii Queen Charlotte, Haida Gwaii Email [email protected] and on facebook The Phantom Kitchen .com [email protected] Phone & Fax: 250-559-8623 queencharlottevisitorcentre.com At the Hecate Inn • 321 Oceanview Dr • Queen Charlotte 250-559-8316 [email protected] 16 Meet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com Accommodations Tourism/Adventure Artisan/Business Store/Restaurant Accommodations Tourism/AdventureArtisan/Business Store/Restaurant Meet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com 17 THE GWAII CHARLOTTE ECHO BAY HAIDA GWAII LAND TOUR LODGE LAW OFFICE ISLAND TIRE Full-service lawyer with 19 years service to COMPANY • Gasoline, diesel Minutes from downtown Queen Charlotte • • Haida Gwaii • Land tours to all areas of Haida Gwaii • West End Auto Sales Dynamic ocean view • Criminal law, civil litigation, conveyancing, • Knowledgeable local guide • Automotive repair Locally owned and operated • • notary services, family law, small claims, • Delicious salmon lunch • Towing services Echo Bay Lodge offers guests the privacy and feel of seclusion and ICBC and more The Gwaii Land Tour Company provides land tours to all areas of Haida Gwaii. Charlotte Island Tire offers a full-service gas station and automotive repair solitude but with the convenience of being close to the amenities Andrea J Turton legal counsel with offices located in Queen Charlotte, Our tours start and end in Sandspit and Queen Charlotte, visiting the most shop, and tow services as well. Great vehicles, great prices. Offering customer and services of Queen Charlotte. Bring your catch of the day back L ve serving all of Haida Gwaii. L ve popular tourist locations that Haida Gwaii has to offer. We provide a BBQ L ve service excellence since 1974 and a certified BCAA contractor. L ve and cook it on the lodge’s gas barbecue or fire pit while enjoying the haidagwaii haidagwaii salmon lunch and an experienced local guide to teach people about haidagwaii Open 8a.m. to 5:30p.m. Monday to Friday, Saturday 9a.m. to 5p.m., closed on haidagwaii meticulously-groomed, landscaped yard and flowering gardens. .com .com the cultural, artistic and historic sites of Haida Gwaii. .com Sunday. Ask us about our vehicle rentals. .com 250-559-4595 • [email protected] • Queen Charlotte 250-559-8909 • #106 101 Causeway St • Queen Charlotte 250-637-1677 • [email protected] • Queen Charlotte 250-559-4641 • Queen Charlotte • [email protected] Enjoy everything Haida Gwaii offers J&T FAMILY MISTY HARBOUR SPRUCE RESTAURANT POINT LODGE • Excellent service, great food INN • Clean, comfortable private rooms • Eat-in or take-out available • Comfortable and cozy accommodation • Beautiful location with ocean view • Centrally located in Queen Charlotte • Central, convenient location • Delicious breakfast delivered to your room • Watch for lunch buffet service • Beautiful view Welcome to the Misty Harbour Inn! Our “non-host” hotel is the perfect Revel in the sounds of gently lapping waves and aquatic birds from the Family friendly restaurant serving a delicious offering of Chinese and location for your visit to Queen Charlotte and Haida Gwaii. Choose one of expansive deck of Spruce Point Lodge. Each guest room features a private Western cuisine. L ve five newly renovated rooms for minimum three-day rentals with access to a L ve bathroom, TV and Wi-Fi plus a private deck entrance. Breakfast is delivered to L ve your room every morning, where you can enjoy eating in your cozy quarters or on Sandspit 250-637-5688 haidagwaii common kitchen. Enjoy our stunning views and convenient location. haidagwaii haidagwaii .com Book online through AirBnB. .com the deck while you watch the sun rise over your lovely ocean view. .com QC 250-559-4641 250-559-4204 • 3223 Wharf Street • Queen Charlotte [email protected] • 3200 Oceanview Dr • Queen Charlotte 250-559-8234 • [email protected] • Queen Charlotte [email protected] THE CHARTER KETCH PADDLE GWAII HAANAS | EXPERIENCE HAIDA GWAII Piraeus lumber • building • plumbing • electrical • paint • outdoor living Join us for 4- and 7-day sailing adventures in majestic Gwaii Haanas
• Transferring your Prescription is Easy • Free Blister Packs • Free Delivery • Medication Reviews clothing • household supplies • wood stoves • flooring • tool rentals Travelling on a traditional wooden sailing vessel • Comfortable, safe, and spacious • Kayaks available • Embrace nature and ancient villages • • Vaccinations & Travel Medicine Create lasting memories in Gwaii Haanas • Flu Shots • Compounding • And many other pharmacy services
SENIORS Every Wednesday is Seniors 20% Day - seniors 55 or better DAY OFF save more. Applies to all in store products, with the exception of lottery, stamps, gift cards, prescriptions and behind the counter medications. Other exclusions may apply. Helping build, renovate & repair homes on Haida Gwaii for over 30 years GUIDED GWAII HAANAS EXPEDITIONS DAY OR MULTI-DAY TOURS OF HAIDA GWAII powered by 706 Oceanview Drive 250-559-4417 BIKE, KAYAK, PADDLE BOARD RENTALS sailpiraeus.com Forbes Pharmacy Haida Gwaii IDA p: 250-559-4910 Queen Charlotte [email protected] 3209 Oceanview Drive 250-360-6184 • [email protected] f: 250-559-4915 Mon - Sat 9am to 5pm The helpful place. amsbuildingcentre.ca Queen Charlotte [email protected] gckayaking.com | 250.637.1093
18 Meet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com Accommodations Tourism/Adventure Artisan/Business Store/Restaurant Accommodations Tourism/AdventureArtisan/Business Store/Restaurant Meet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com 19 OCEAN VIEW GRACIE’S PUB & GRILL FUNK IT! HECATE A food experience you won’t forget PLACE HOTEL • • Furniture and home décor items INN Centrally located - Eat-in or take-out A warm, friendly, homey experience • • • Seasonal garden centre • Ocean and mountain view lodging Live music, karaoke, billiards & more Centrally located with a view of the harbour • • • Housewares and local gift ware • A home away from home Catering and private rentals on request Over 30 years providing accommodations in • • • Excellence in customer service, satisfaction, • Service with a smile • Best pizza in town Queen Charlotte and appreciation The Ocean View Restaurant, Pub & Grill boasts a stunning harbour view while Enjoy a spectacular view of the inlet, fishermen’s dock and the natural beauty Original. Dynamic. Exciting. The Hecate Inn provides a comfortable, relaxing environment for guests our team create great meals with fresh ingredients. The pub has been locally of the Queen Charlotte area. Guests can choose one of four rooms designed Find your inner designer at Funk It! You’ll be delighted by the eclectic no matter how short or long their stay is. The motel rooms feature owned and operated for over 30 years and you will find something fun to do L ve for one to two guests, or a two-bedroom home appropriate for families and L ve inventory of furniture, lighting, home décor and gift items inside. L ve handmade furniture, cable TV, a convenient kitchen, comfortable beds, L ve here every night we are open. Come and experience our brand of Haida Gwaii haidagwaii larger parties. TV, Wi-Fi & cell service. Kitchenette rooms are also available. haidagwaii haidagwaii Wi-fi and nice private bathrooms. haidagwaii hospitality! Also available at 250-559-8008 .com graciesplace.ca .com .com Email is [email protected] or check the website hecateinn.ca .com 250-559-8503 • 3200 Oceanview Dr • Queen Charlotte 250-559-4262 • [email protected] • Queen Charlotte 250-559-4753 • 3208 Wharf St • Queen Charlotte 250-559-4543 • 1-800-665-3350 • Queen Charlotte
CASSIE’S HIGHLANDER DUFFY’S KIM GOETZINGER MARINE SERVICES GUESTHOUSE MASSAGE COTTAGE • Specialized marine transportation and • Cozy water front Accommodation freight services • Three accommodation options: luxury home THERAPY CLINIC Kitchenette & private covered outdoor • • Reliable service to all of Haida Gwaii and and two lovely cottages Registered Massage Therapy treatments cooking /sitting area • North Coast • Flat-screen TV, Wi-Fi, home amenities Individual Health Classes, education and Walking distance to all amenities • • • Project management, trip consultation • Gorgeous views of Skidegate Inlet from a outreach programs • Find us on Facebook Haida Gwaii’s Cassie’s Cottage planning and logistical support private terrace • Extensive training and experience in Fully independent one-bedroom cottage on oceanfront property in Queen Highlander Marine’s high-speed catamaran landing craft can transport Duffy’s Guesthouse will provide you with comfortable accommodations in a massage therapy Charlotte. Steps from launching canoe/kayaks. Complimentary bicycles to crews, large and small equipment, vehicles, freight and more! Their beautiful setting. There are three relaxing options to choose from, ranging from Soothing. Caring. Relaxing. explore our community and beaches. Personal fire pit to relax around and soak L ve aluminum vessels are the best for handling the weather and sea L ve luxury vacation home to quaint cottages, all with panoramic ocean views. Each L ve Kim Goetzinger Massage Therapy Clinic provides hands-on treatment that will L ve get you moving and keep you healthy. in the panoramic views. Enjoy your day with a spectacular one-of-a-kind sunset. haidagwaii conditions of the north coast and Haida Gwaii. haidagwaii rental offers a flat-screen satellite TV, free Wi-Fi, toiletries, parking, and more. haidagwaii haidagwaii Email [email protected] .com highlandermarine.ca .com Duffy’s Guesthouse has it all. .com .com 778-260-0195 • 408 Oceanview Dr • Queen Charlotte 250-637-1111 • 750 Oceanview Subdivision • Skidegate 250-559-8944 • Queen Charlotte • [email protected] 250-637-1685 • [email protected] • Skidegate TAAW NAAY TOTEM to TOTEM MARATHON SAPPORO GAS STATION Saturday JULY 20, 2019 JAPANESE RESTAURANT • Gasoline, diesel, motor oil and air SKIDEGATE - HAIDA GWAII Authentic Japanese cuisine • 3301 Oceanview Dr., Queen Charlotte • Convenience store with snack and drinks Fast and friendly service • • Propane cylinder refills Fully licensed [email protected] • • Lottery, ATM and tax-exempt fuel & tobacco • Dine-in or take-out P 250-559-4423 1-800-665-9606 Taaw Naay Gas Station is the last stop for gas until you reach Port Clements. Take a meal at Sapporo Japanese Restaurant in Queen Charlotte and Stop in for gas and snacks on your way north. We are open year-round, 7 days enjoy fresh and delicious Japanese sushi, sashimi and other delectable L ve per week and offer tax exempt sales of tobacco and fuel with your status card. L ve dishes. The restaurant is wheelchair accessible and offers a selection of Winter hours: 8:30am to 9:00pm beer and wine. Hours vary by season. haidagwaii haidagwaii .com Summer hours: 8:00am to 10:00pm .com 250-559-8855 • Queen Charlotte • 127 Oceanview Drive 250-559-4455 • 838 Hwy 16 • Skidegate OceanfrOnt • Kitchenette • family • BachelOr rOOm HAIDA GWAII SKIDEGATE INLET RETREAT PANORAMIC VIEWS OVER SKIDEGATE INLET DESIGNS & SIGNS | | • Photocopy and printing centre Modern Private Tranquil • Photographs printed on digital canvas Pet friendly • enjOy Our Ocean View · Two suites - Eagle suite and Raven suite. · Featuring excellent soundproofing and and framed · Each suite has two bedrooms, en-suite nestled in a quiet hillside neighborhood • Custom T-shirts designs bathrooms, kitchen & living area. Can rent located in Queen Charlotte. • We make all kinds of signs entire space, or each room separately. · Non-smoking facility, no pets. A diverse shop producing professional quality cut-vinyl and digital-vinyl Marathon Half-Marathon signs. We also provide professional photograph printing, custom T-shirts, 10 km Run and general photocopying. Steve has many years of experience in the L ve haidagwaii Contact Robert 778-877-7385 | [email protected] graphics field to assist you, from design layout to production. restaurant On the Premises For Information & Registration .com 3105 Second Ave, Queen Charlotte www.Totemtototem.com 778-230-9871 • Queen Charlotte • 1201 Oceanview Drive airbnb.ca | facebook.com/skidegateinlet/
20 Meet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com Accommodations Tourism/Adventure Artisan/Business Store/Restaurant Accommodations Tourism/AdventureArtisan/Business Store/Restaurant Meet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com 21 THE LONG HOUSE Riverside TLELL GIFT SHOP Bed & Breakfast Feed Store, Vet Clinic, Boarding Kennel & Guest Houses • Local Haida carvings and artwork • Haida Gwaii clothing Cozy. Contact Leslie at: 250-557-4348 - [email protected] - www.richardsonranch.ca • Gifts and souvenirs • Car rentals Warm. The Long House Gift Shop is housed in a building fashioned after a traditional Haida longhouse and packed with local Haida artwork, Convenient. handcrafts and Haida Gwaii clothing. L ve Relax in the tranquil natural haidagwaii Email: [email protected] surroundings of the Tlell River .com at Riverside B &B. Within 250-559-8013 • 107 Front St • Skidegate walking distance of Tlell amenities and local beaches. JAGS Free wifi for all guests. BEANSTALK • Daily fresh baking and made-in-house dishes using local ingredients • Proudly serving 49th Parallel fair-trade coffee beans • Warm and cozy accommodations Aromatic. Fresh. Inviting. GRANDPA’S GUEST HOUSE RIVERVIEW GUEST HOUSE Outstanding Aboriginal Business Award winner. Wake up to an aromatic cup 528 Richardson Rd, Tlell, BC of coffee or hot-steamed espresso beverage and a fresh-baked muffin at Jags L ve Heritage home on the historic Located on a private lot on Beanstalk. 250-557-4418 haidagwaii Richardson Ranch, overlooking the Beitush Road, inside Naikoon Park, jagsbeanstalk.com .com [email protected] Tlell River and tidal meadows. close to the river and the beach. 250-559-8826 • 100 Hwy 16 • Skidegate haidagwaii.net/margaret
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22 Meet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com Accommodations Tourism/Adventure Artisan/Business Store/Restaurant TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 23 WHy we LOvE hAiDa GWAii
SGiids Kung Vanessa Bellis Lawrence Jones MASSET GAW TLAGEE OLD MASSETT Look around, this is the most beautiful place on earth! We are surrounded by the Because I grew up here and I love my ocean and fresh air! Not many people get to home town. Rain or shine it is beautiful. say that killerwhales swim in front of their house! I get to live close to my family and see them on a daily basis!
Tracy Marrs GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS I've lived here for many years and one of the things I love most about this place is how big of a heart the Island has. When someone is in need, all the communities pull together and help out.
Phoebe Dykstra Jenny Nelson MASSET MASSET Haida Gwaii is family, forest, the dunes, I came to Haida Gwaii to find stability, Duu Guusd and friends. I found home. It's moved into my bones. 24 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 25 CrYsTaL ClEAR Kayaking in Gwaii Haanas By Graham Richard/Council of the Haida Nation Day 1 ur kayak journey to Gwaii Haanas starts with a dusty drive along flow- Oer-fringed logging roads. Our ten-person crew has carefully planned our paddle south for months, and it feels good to finally heave our gear into our cars and depart for Gaats’iiGundaay Alliford Bay. Our vehicles bob through potholes down the logging road to Gawu Kuns Moresby Camp. Gawu Kuns is a historically monumental site. Here Nang Kilslaas Hll.nga Supernatural Raven built a house for his wife Jiila Kuns. Her ten children are kuuniisii ancestors of Kuustak Haida descendants of the eagle moiety, and many Haida today are her matrilineal descendants.
Having finished the first round of un- the mouth of Hlkinul Kaahlii, however, packing and repacking, we set our kay- strong currents and sandy substrates aks on the water. Our group sets out still preserve large areas of kelp forest. on a falling tide heading roughly 25 Ngaal Giant kelp and hlkyama Bull kelp kilometres east, towards our first camp persist here, covering kilometres of the near the mouth of Hlkinul Kaahlii Cum- life-filled shallows. shewa Inlet. As we look from kelp forest to the rain- As we paddle, we gaze over-side forest towering above, Haida Gwaii’s through rich blankets of seaweed spot- complex geological origins grow more ting creatures below. One hundred and apparent. Towering Carnian mountains fifty years ago the sea otter trade erad- of volcanic rock recede to our south as icated kuu Sea otters throughout much much younger eskers approach along of the west coast. Freed from their our northern side. Massive glaciers primary predators, guuding.ngaay Pur- formed these hills as recently as 16,000 ple urchin proliferated, consuming vast years ago. Today they roll beneath tall areas of kelp beds and creating ‘urchin old-growth ts’uu Red cedar and kayd barrens’ that characterize much of the Spruce rainforests. Islands’ marine ecosystems today. At Having politely asked for, received permission from and paid a thank- you to the Haida family that man- ages the area we set up camp near the village site. Here a number of gyaaGalang monumental columns still watch over the village. We spend the Afternoon rain shower after a good day's paddle. remainder of the day snorkeling in the Photo: Parks Canada / Sean Lahusen summer day’s lagging light.
26 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 27 Another easy seven kilometres brings k’aaxada dogfish leap headlong from ers stops by. Of course, the wisest joy a taste of Haida Gwaii. A beautiful Day 2 us to our destination, tucked safely the surface after prey as gentler winds Day 5 of us use the hot springs to warm up k'ya.alt'agwaang Western sandpiper behind Giits’aads Vertical Point. A pair retreat south. Well fed, well rested and well scrubbed, between swimming excursions in sur- joins us for dinner, and pokes delicately We start day two by rounding K’ing of xuuya raven and a hlGuu Great blue we leave Hlk’yah behind early on our rounding cold seas. That's really the at the frond-covered shoreline. To our west, long sandy beaches Gwaay Kingui Island, a storied island, heron greet our party on the sandy fifth morning. Subsiding northern winds whole idea. Throughout the day we stretch between foreboding towers of and make the seven kilometre cross- beach. The wariest of the trio heaves and falling currents running south dip in and out of the ocean, free-div- Jurassic sediment, where white frothy Day 6 ing south to K’uuna Llnagaay. With its body into the sky and heads north- quickly carry us twelve kilometres ing beyond the reef and through the waves begin to roar. We give these pep and determination, we beat Xyuu ward to find solitude amongst rocky through K’aadxwa Xyangs Gogit Pas- cove, where schools of fish shelter and On morning six we cross obstacles a generous berth, and luck- Southeast Wind and make it to K’uuna tide pools. The two xuuya linger watch- sage. We wrestle driving waves with great herds of guuding.ngaay lay siege Gandaawuu.ngaay Xyangs Juan Perez ily, we beat the weather into Hlk’yah in good time. Before landing, we radio fully on nearby hemlock branches. We measured excitement. Ultimately ‘loose to the last remaining outcrops of kelp Sound west to Kingts’ii Gwaay.yaay Bis- GawGa. ahead to the Haida Watchmen at the give these notorious ransackers an ex- hips and lots of dips’ bring us safely forest. Among them, rare and beautiful choff Islands where dozens of xuud Ha- site. Watchmen have protected Haida bour seals have gathered, presumably tra measure of vigilance as we unpack We land in time to meet the Watchmen to Gandll K’in Gwaay.yaay Hotspring sea slugs wave deadly cerata as they village sites for decades. They help to dive for cod among gray reefs. Xuud our kayaks and hang our food in a tree. on site, who generously show us Gwaay Island. scrape food from rocks or prepare to flit all about our kayaks, surfacing here Haanas Giinaa.Ga GyaaGang.ngaay pounce on their prey of choice. Watchmen and Haida fishing families and there to huff indignantly. Dang Gyaaxa Gwaii Haanas Legacy greet us on shore, and we exchange A brief two-kilometre jaunt north Pole before sending us off to admire stories about our travels. We bathe brings us to our camp in a bay on the An arguably misguided surge of curios- the surrounding old growth rainforest. lazily in hot pools, chattering while a south side of Gaysiigas Gwaay Mur- ity leads our little armada up Kingts’ii In 1985, Haida ended industrial logging parade of friends, relatives and strang- chison Island. We can’t escape our GawGa Beresford Inlet, a narrow at Tllga Kun Gwaay.yaay. Today visitors friends, however, who catch up in their branch of water stretching six kilome- admire a part of that ongoing legacy; skiff to bring us freshx aaguu Pacific tres northward. Gentle flooding tides the monumental evergreens still stand- Afternoon light filters through the clouds. halibut. Once camp is set up, previous slowly push us up the inlet over kelp ing tall around Hlk'yah GawGa. Photo: Parks Canada / Sean Lahusen dinner plans are cancelled, and we en- forests and past an islet of blossoming Day 4 On the morning of our fourth day strong northerly winds whip up the sea. From the quiet shore we look through A kun whale takes a dive. Xuud Harbour seals checking out the scene. the bay’s mouth, marked on either Photo: Parks Canada / C. Houston Photo: Parks Canada / Heather Ramsey side by rocky islets. The sea beyond is awash with white-capped waves. We and welcome visitors and speak to Having paddled 21 kilometres in a day, couldn’t have arranged a better place their deep knowledge of Haida Gwaii. we are already full of memories. to settle in for a weather-day. As an At K’uuna they graciously show us the estuary with sandy, gravelly and rocky many gyaaGalang monumental poles features, Hlk’yah GawGa supports di- and náaGalang monumental cedar Day 3 verse marine life. Tucked behind the houses that remain. protective shoulder of the bay, we are On morning three, Juu Hlaasda North left to spend the day swimming in the After a brief rest, we start paddling the Wind overshadows the afternoon. We intertidal, where k’uust’an Dungeness two kilometres east to Gwaayts’ads rise early to attempt the 20 kilometre crab, k’aahl kelp crab, and especially Skedans Islands. Here we take a break in crossing south to Tllga Kun Gwaay.yaay guuding.ngaay Purple urchin thrive. the sun and swim with xuud Harbour seals Athlii Gwaay or Lyell Island. GawGa We dive below the rolling swell at the through kelp forests dotted with orange Kwaan GawGa is often a dangerous mouth of the bay, where Juu Hlaasda seapens. Sandpipers and oystercatchers stretch of open water. Winds can rush North Wind makes the entrance im- chatter and scramble at the rocky point, in to suddenly disturb calm waters. passable. as if to see us off, as we paddle south into From the bay’s centre, hanging on the GawGa Kwaan GawGa Laskeek Bay. The fragile edge of the weather’s whim, we When one is kayaking, hygiene is of area is an important bird habitat that has sense our insignificance engulfing us. the utmost importance, and our crew drawn scientists from around the world. For now, Xyuu Southeast Wind gently enjoys leisurely baths in sunlit pools Flocks of ts’allang.nga Marbled murrelet scrapes shallow, whimsical forms into at Hlk’yah Gandlee Windy Bay Creek. and sgaaxada Pigeon guillemot accom- lulling swell, embossed in sharp morn- We take time to admire birds, marine pany us as we paddle. These birds often ing light. But swell and wind grow as invertebrates, and small salmon fry, concentrate in flocks and dive for school- we push through the last seven kilome- and get up close with introduced k’aad ing fish amongst other seabirds. tres to Hlk’yah GawGa. Unperturbed Sitka deer.
28 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 29 k’ay Crab apple trees. Thrush calls re- clouds of biting insects emerge to pun- the water and up into the forest. At sels might drift past with this bounty. sound from the inlet’s forested slopes ish us for our audacity. mid-tide we reach Gaysiigas K’idsii Mur- Real estate here is in high demand, and "FROM THE BAY’S CENTRE, and we soon arrive at its northern ex- chison Narrows, where the waters teem shorelines are packed with all kinds tremity. Leaving the portage behind, we pad- with shellfish and dancing seaweeds. of cnidarians and their accompanying HANGING ON THE FRAGILE EDGE dle east across Kilslaay Kaajii Sding We spend the day derping around in cast of dependents, benefactors, and One of our more intrepid members GawGa Sedgwick Bay. At the northern the shallows before retiring to Gandll antagonists. Juvenile fish disguise OF THE WEATHER’S WHIM, suggests portaging across a narrow end of this inlet Haida citizens stood K’in once again. A quick paddle south themselves in dazzling patchworks of isthmus east to Kuuniisii Xaw Daw on the ‘Line at Lyell’ to put an end to from Gaysiigas Gwaay to a campsite brightly coloured encrusting bryozoa. WE SENSE OUR INSIGNIFICANCE GawGaay the northwest bay within excessive logging in 1985. This historic on the north shore of Xiina Gwaay.yaay Small sguskaahll Red rock crab hide Ramsay Island makes for an easy day. beneath wide, thick curtains of Dark ENGULFING US." brown wrack kelp Laminaria bongardi- ana and bright, tapering Turkish towel Day 8 Chondracanthus exasperata. Towards On morning eight we decide to move the narrows northern end gyuudan and laughter, we leave the evening fire our camp farther south again to put us Moon snail engulf bivalve prey with one at a time to plunge headlong into in reach of K’iid Xyangs K’iidaay Burna- their white, fleshy feet. contented dreams. by Narrows. We plan around the winds and tides to cross 23 kilometres from These narrows, like so many areas in Xiina Gwaay.yaay to GaysiiGas K’iidsii Haida Gwaii, are abuzz with life. Two Day 10 Burnaby Strait. We grow meditative village sites sit shoulder-to-shoulder On morning ten we pack our gear and during the haul south, recollecting our at each end of the small area. Both load a large zodiac. With the roar of journey. Dozens of ancient village sites flourished in the concentration of nat- the motors we awaken from our deep are within view on the shores around us ural wealth. The narrows also provide dream, suddenly returned to the bustle and obscured beneath us on the ocean a visual feast: the final treat after nine of everyday life. The three-hour ride floor. This open water once bustled days of travelling. After another full back provides a short time to revisit the with canoe traffic, and the presence of day, we return to camp greeting other passing landscape, filled with memories Packed up and loaded for transport back. kuuniisii is clearly felt. The day dis- visitors along the way. Full of memories and plans for the next adventure. Photo: Parks Canada / Leslie Leong solves into consideration of the many hundreds of generations of people that came before us.
We awaken from our reverie close to Gwaay Guusdagang All Alone Stone, Gwaay Haanas Giinaa.Ga GyaaGang.ngaay Dang Gyaaxa Gwaii Haanas Legacy Pole. where a gentle swell reveals its true Photo Parks Canada/C. Houston power, gulping and roaring as it smash- es onto its cliffy sides. From there it is another push south up the inlet, where we camp beside a creek. Sedgwick Bay. An impenetrable wall act upheld Haida law and led to a con- of rainforest locks away all sight of tinuing series of protections in Haida any route. While a few of the crew Gwaii and the creation of the Gwaii Day 9 doggedly volunteer for scouting duty, Haanas Haida Heritage Site, National On morning nine we set out for K’iid our other group elects to float near- Park Reserve, and National Marine Con- Xyangs K’iidaay Burnaby Narrows. Don- by, vigilantly snacking and listening to servation Area Reserve. ning masks and snorkels we plunge birds. As minutes pass we idle, unintim- into the cold water. All kinds of inter- idated by the unlikely prospect of our Day 7 tidal life concentrate at the narrows companions finding the portage route. and strong currents sustain the many But to our dismay, we all soon find our- On morning seven we round the is- inhabitants with a constant influx of selves scrambling up a steep embank- land’s western side. Gal Blue mussels creatures. Among them come the top ment, squeezing our kayaks over roots grow thick, shrouding stones in dark predators of the planktonic drifts, and and under branches. Over an hour later blue. Ferocious bright orange File dog- we are treated to an exquisite variety we have successfully crossed some 150 winkles stand out against the carpet of glittering cone jellies and frilled me- metres of ground. Upon the arrival of of dark shells, and cling tightly to their dusozoa. Along the bottom youthful our last kayak in the mucky cove, we bivalve prey. As we approach, startled cabezon passively await whatever mor- celebrate with a brief hurrah before sdllGuu River otters scramble out of
30 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 31 winds tend to blow from the southeast, One advantage is that when he was enties. While it might look otherwise bringing storms. They found surf, and little, Boisvert and his mom could wind- from shore, kiters don’t need a ton of some of the wildest seas he’s ever kit- surf together, with him perched up upper-body strength. The kite lines run ed. What they and others won’t find front. He loved it. It was only six years to a waist or seat harness that handles easily, unless they seek them out, is ago that Boisvert got a chance to try most of the kite’s pull, while a control other kiters. kitesurfing while on vacation in the Ca- bar is used mainly for steering. ribbean. But the wind wasn’t so great, “We actually want more people,” says and he wasn’t hooked right away. Kite- Perhaps today’s 70-year-old kiters are Julien Boisvert, speaking at home in surfing has a steep learning curve. chasing what a young Benjamin Frank- Masset with his partner Hilary, their lin discovered in his not-so famous kite baby daughter Aubrey, and their dog, One reason is that depending on the experiment of the early 1700s. Floating Surfer. “Never thought I’d say that, wind and the size of the kite, kiters can on his back in a pond, young Franklin ever!” harness a lot of power. Racing in shal- flew a regular kid’s kite high above and low canals cut in the Namibian desert, found he could glide from one shore to Like a lot of kiters, Boisvert first set sail kitesurfers have hit speeds of over 50 the other “in a most agreeable manner.” on a windsurfer. “My mom, she bought knots. The world record is just shy of 58 like the first windsurfer available in knots, or 107 km/h. By suddenly steer- It takes considerably more training, with the 1980s,” he said. “They were super ing a kite upwards, riders can leverage one-on-one help, for beginner kitesurf- heavy, super huge.” that power to jump high off the water ers to get the feel for controlling a kite, — the record is 28.6 metres. getting up on a board and riding down- wind, and finally how to ride against Most people will never ride in such ex- the wind so they can sail back to where treme conditions. But some are extreme they started and avoid long walks on Opposite: Endless beach and strong winds by in other ways. the beach. SGidlii Gandlee White Creek. Below: A kiter in control of her lines. A few people, mostly former windsurf- Even so, when Boisvert got home from Photo credits: Andrew Hudson ers, are now kiting well into their sev- his Caribbean vacation and saw 50
WinD CaTchErs
By Andrew Hudson or Jonathan Beaupré, summer revolves around the wind. In summer Beaupré repairs wind turbines in the Gaspésie, Fa peninsula in eastern Quebec that juts into the Gulf of Saint Lawrence, and bristles with wind farms. Its Mi’gmaq name, gespeg, means “end of the lands.” Working mainly at height, whether on ropes or platforms, Beaupré fixes cracks in the turbines’ fibreglass blades. But not when it’s really blowing. kites and surfboards. Kitesurfing is still those who make the trip in midsummer a fairly new sport, and it’s a stretch can find 17-hour days, endless beach, “If it’s too windy, we don’t work,” he to say it’s taking off here on Haida and prevailing northwest winds that says, sounding not the least bit un- Gwaii. There are maybe a dozen kiters almost always bring clear, sunny skies. happy about it. Unable to work on on-islands, and visiting ones land about windy days, Beaupré and a half-dozen as often as a Eurasian Wigeon gets Beaupré and his girlfriend actually colleagues often swap their tools for blown across the Hecate Strait. But made the trip last winter, when the
32 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 33 kitesurfers riding all at once on the Creek is among the most beginner- back. After a friend taught him to fly All you need to Plan Ottawa River, he was in. At about the friendly places to land and launch a a trainer kite on shore, McDonald was same time, he started seeing Hilary Mc- kite, with a wide sandy beach and few hooked — in recent years, he and over Namee, who quickly picked up kitesurf- trees or rocks around. Especially on a a dozen whitewater kayakers have ing and excelled. Today, they can both falling tide, Hl’yaalang waagusd North largely switched to kitesurfing. boost big jumps and pull off tricks like Beach east of the Hl'yaalan 'Llngee backspins and raileys and darkslides. Hiellen River tends to have long flats “I think the appeal is the sunshine, and between the waves, though depending the community you can spend time “I was lucky,” McNamee said. “I had on the tide cycle kiters may find little with,” McDonald said, nothing that good instructors, and I didn’t have any or no space to land a kite at high tide. kayak trips are often in cold dark river bad experiences at the beginning.” valleys. There are hazards too, such as the no- Living in the Ottawa area meant Hila- go zones around the Masset and Sand- “There’s a nice community of people I ry and Julien often had to drive three spit Airports. Kiting in offshore winds is find, who are good to give a helping hours away to find strong, steady wind. also a bad idea in such a remote place, hand when they need to.” That all changed when they moved to where kiters can only rely on self-res- Masset two years ago. Among the new people Julien and cues if a line breaks or the wind dies. Hilary are looking forward to kiting Many of the best kite spots on Haida You might see Alaska from your house, with is their daughter Aubrey, who is Gwaii are near Masset along the north but it’s still a long swim. Besides kiting just starting to walk but has already shore of Graham Island, where there with humpbacks, seals, porpoises, ea- enjoyed several summer days with HAiDa are also several beach and longhouse gles, the Pesuta shipwreck, or the cliffs mom and dad taking turns kiting on cabins for rent, and tenting at Hl'yaalan of Taaw Tow Hill in view, visiting and Hl’yaalang waagusd. Galguusd Agate Beach campground. local kiters often say how friendly the sport is here and nearly everywhere. GWaii The mouth of SGidlii Gandlee White “It hasn’t happened to us yet that we need to leave early,” Boisvert said. “She Josh McDonald kited in Haida Gwaii loves the beach, and she doesn’t mind twice last summer, but he mainly goes the wind either.” TRip in the Sgiina Gandlaay Skeena River Below: Winds, waves and land meet at a and other spots around his home in precarious spot. Kxeen Prince Rupert, including one Photo credit: Caroline Walker where people kite to a hotspring and PlAnniNg GUiDe
34 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 35 Haida gwaii Trip Planner
WHEN YOU’VE REACHED
THE EDGE OF YOUR WORLD, Photo: Owen Perry OURS BEGINS. A WEALTH OF KNOWLEDGE
aida Gwaii is a treasure. The wild beauty of Haida SANDSPIT VISITOR CENTRE HGwaii strikes a deep impression on visitors and resi- 250-637-5362 • lovehaidagwaii.com/the-sandspit-visitor-centre dents alike. Come here with curiosity and respect – you andspit Visitor Centre is located inside the Sandspit Airport. The staff members are local res- will always be welcomed back to the edge of the world. Sidents with firsthand information about local amenities plus special events, like the Moresby Market, Loggers Sports Day and the Sandspit Wild Harvest Festival. Ask us about the world-re- We hope this guide will make planning your trip easy. One nowned Gwaii Haanas Haida Heritage Site, National Park Reserve, and Nation Marine Conserva- way to think of Haida Gwaii, is as a village of 4,500, hardy, tion Area The Sandspit Visitor Centre is part of the official Destination BC Visitor Services Network unique characters who live in seven neighbourhoods spread and is operated by a not-for-profit community society. up and down the islands. The ocean and the forest are our larder, the ferries our connection to the mainland, and the ferry lineup one of our gathering points where we socialize QUEEN CHARLOTTE VISITOR CENTRE and politic – with coffee cup in hand. 250-559-8316 • queencharlottevisitorcentre.com For a trip to remember, book your accommodation, excursions The Queen Charlotte Visitor Centre is located in heart of Daajing Giids and is part of the official and travel well in advance. We recommend six months to a Destination BC Visitor Services Network. They are open all year long, including seven days a year lead time to ensure you enjoy a smooth trip. Accommo- week throughout the summer. The Queen Charlotte Visitor Centre and its services are an integral dation varies from rustic "off the grid" beach cabins to modern part of the islands tourism community of Haida Gwaii. The staff are here to help. Head outside to and natural lodges and retreats, and extraordinary camping the interpretive garden and picnic area to relax and take in the fresh air. in old growth or on the beach. All accommodation is small scale and intimate. Each time you book you are talking with an owner who cares passionately about the quality of your PORT CLEMENTS MUSEUM & INFORMATION CENTRE experience. 250-557-4576 • lovehaidagwaii.com/port-clements-museum isitors to Haida Gwaii must add a stop at the Port Clements Museum to their travel itinerary. There are no chain stores, fast food franchises or large hotels VThe museum is run by the Port Clements Historical Society, made up entirely of local volunteers on the "Islands of the People". Here we live slowly, at a pace who have a passion for preserving and sharing Gamadiis’ unique history. Guests are invited to take that is rich with unique experiences. Winter is the social sea- an interpretive tour or browse the displays on their own. The Port Clements Museum is open daily son, full of concerts, artisan fairs, coffee houses and events June to September from 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. During the rest of the year it is open Saturdays throughout the islands. We re-connect, regroup, and plan for and Sundays, 2:00 - 4:00 p.m. high-season tourism in the summer, but love to see visitors all year long. NORTHERN HAIDA GWAII VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE 250-626-3982 • massetbc.com he village of Masset operates the Northern Haida Gwaii Visitor Information Centre which Tis located at Mile 0 of the Yellowhead Highway at the entrance to town. The Masset Visitor Information Centre is open daily from 9a.m to 5 p.m., from mid-June through mid-September. Stop in to shop local art and merchandise, and enjoy free Wi-Fi access, A guusd unital eagle soars above sunset waters in Gwaii Haanas. public washroom, and a telephone for anyone who needs to make a call.
Photo previous page: Owen Perry 36 For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca 37 haida gwaii Trip Planner BIKE RENTALS
Masset: call Masset Bikes 250-626-8939 Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte - or North Beach Surf Shop 250-626-7873 or call Echo Bay Lodge at 250-637-1758 or call email Bike RePsych at [email protected] Green Coast Kayaking at 250-637-1093 or K’il Llnagaay Sandspit: call the email Bike RePsych at [email protected] Sandspit Visitor Centre at 250-637-5362 Photo: Monica Phung FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Should I get travel insurance?
GETTING HERE & GETTING AROUND Travel insurance and/or trip cancellation insurance is highly recommended. Frequently, many transportation routes (plane and ferry), as well as tours on Haida Gwaii are postponed or hether you’re planning travel to Haida Gwaii from T'agaa Vancouver, Toronto, Seattle, Beijing, London or your own special cancelled due to weather or sea conditions. This applies year-round. Wcorner of the world, this information will help prepare for your journey to Haida Gwaii. Are there public transit buses on island? ARRIVING BY AIR Unfortunately, there is no public transportation on island. Most communities have a taxi ser- vice. There are several companies on island that will provide taxi services and tours. Air service is available daily from Vancouver and Prince Rupert. For schedules and fares please check with the following carriers. Are all roads on Haida Gwaii passable for a camper? A small vehicle? Are • AIR CANADA has regularly scheduled 2.5-hour flights from Vancouver International there unpaved roads? Airport (YVR) to Sandspit International Airport (YZP). There are only about 140km of paved highways on the islands and many areas to camp in • PACIFIC COASTAL AIRLINES has regularly scheduled 2.5-hour flights between Vancouver's South Terminal (YVR) and the Masset Municipal Airport (ZMT). between the communities along the main highway. There is an extensive network of unpaved roads too, some suitable for a camper van on short distances, and some not advisable. You • INLAND AIR has scheduled flights between Prince Rupert and the Village of Masset. will want to enquire locally for information on the state of the roads and logging activity. ARRIVING BY WATER How safe is it to bike around the islands? BC FERRIES provides regular scheduled sailings to the Islands from Prince Rupert, year- Cycling is a great way to experience a destination, as it slows you down, keeps you active, round. Connector service is available in Prince Rupert for the Inside Passage route to or gets you places you may not get to by conventional motor vehicle, and puts you in direct from Port Hardy on Vancouver Island, or north with Alaska's marine ferry system. Arrive at contact with the elements and with people. Haida Gwaii has a very limited network of paved terminals two hours in advance. Check for current conditions and changes in schedule at roads, which means that if you choose to stick to the pavement, you won’t necessarily be bcferries.com. cycling all that much, and you also will have a hard time getting lost. There is a much more Many of the communities have marinas, boat ramps and services catering to recreational boat- extensive network of unpaved roads, logging roads, back roads etc., that can take you much ers. For small craft harbour information in K'il Llnagaay Sandspit call 250-637-5700, Daajing farther into the wilderness, though it is not for everybody. Giids Queen Charlotte call 250-559-4650, for Gamadiis Port Clements call 250-557-4295 and for Masset call 250-626-3995. Is it necessary to book tours in advance or is it easy to book them when we arrive (e.g. excursions to Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, Haida TAXIS Heritage Site, Naikoon Provincial Park, etc)? HlGaagilda Skidegate: call Gwaii Taxi & Tours at 250-559-2380 or on cell 250-637-1162 for All tours, especially to Gwaii Haanas, should definitely be booked ni advance. The Haida Heri- service in the Daajing Giids and HlGaagilda areas. tage Centre and Saahlinda Naay Haida Gwaii Museum do not take bookings and have regular Masset: call Mile Zero Taxi service 250-626-7971 for service throughout northern Haida Gwaii. hours of operation. Naikoon Provincial Park does not take bookings either (campgrounds are on first-come, first-served basis). You can hike in Naikoon Provincial Park and other areas at AUTO RENTALS your leisure with no reservations required. See page 78 for more information. K’il Llnagaay Sandspit: call Budget Car Rentals at 250-637-5688 I would like to go to Gwaii Haanas, how can one get there? Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte: call Budget Car & Truck Rentals at 250-559-4641 or Island Auto Rentals at 250-559-4118 or Haida Gwaii Vehicle & RV Rentals at 250-637-1202 There is no road access to Gwaii Haanas. It is only accessible by float plane or boat. HlGaagilda Skidegate: call The Long House Gift Shop (National Car Rentals) at 250-626- See page 78 for more information. For a list of licensed tour oper- 3833, Haida Gwaii Scooter Rentals 250.640.6474 ators, including float plane service, visit the Gwaii Haanas website at pc.gc.ca/en/pn-np/bc/gwaiihaanas/visit Masset: call National Car Rentals at 250-626-3833, or Rustic Car Rentals at 250-626-3756 38 For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca 39 Haida gwaii Trip Planner
TLL.AAL TLELL AREA
• Check out the artisan shops along Richardson and Beitush Roads • Visit local farms to see what’s growing • Have a coffee and walk the never-ending TlldasEast Beach • Stop at the Misty Meadows Campground for beach access • Walk on the Anvil Trail and explore the upper reaches of the Tll.aal Gandlaay Tlell River • Hike to the Pesuta shipwreck Photo: Jags Brown • Explore Nee Kun area Naikoon Park
THINGS TO DO ON-ISLAND GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS AREA • Take a guided kayak tour of Gaw Kaahlii Masset Inlet, Juus Kaahlii Juskatla Inlet and river Choose one or more idea from each block and build your own itinerary, one day at a time! See gohaidagwaii.ca for more tours details and contact information. • Join a guided land tour and explore logging roads to get to the Yaagun Gandlaay Yakoun River or Chaahluu Kaahlii Rennell Sound K’IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPIT AREA • Explore the new walking paths throughout Gamadiis Port Clements • Check out the pioneer artifacts and get up to date information at the Port Clements Museum • Bike and kayak rentals, maps available at Sandspit Visitor Centre • Walk along the great Sunset Park Trail and go up to the bird-viewing tower at Yaagun • Bird-watching at the "spit" Kaahlii Stl’ang Yakoun Estuary • Choice of restaurants and shops to explore • Shoreline walk along K’il KaaGan Shingle Bay • Picnic at the whale-watching gazebo at Kun Gwaay Onward Point MASSET • Spend the day at Diinal GawGa Gray Bay • Hike the Dover Creek Trail • Grab a bike or a water-sport rental to get around • Explore local history at the Dixon Entrance Maritime Museum • Walk along to bird-view platforms at the Delkatla Wildlife Sanctuary DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE AREA • Choice of grocery store, restaurants and cafes to grab lunch or dinner • Maps available at Queen Charlotte Visitor Centre • Hire a fishing charter for a world-class fishing experience • Bike and Kayak rentals available • Walk the endless beaches and enjoy a Pacific sunset • A waterfront stroll on the sea walk and docks • Guided or self-guided kayak tour of Daajing Giids GawGa Bearskin Bay or Tllgaduu GawGa Kagan Bay GAW TLAGEE OLD MASSETT • Explore Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte and Tllgaduu GawGa Kagan Bay • Guided sightseeing or fishing charter to Duu Guusd the West Coast of Haida Gwaii • Walk or drive through Gaw Tlagee and see gyaa'aang monumental poles • Guided single day boat tour exploring Xaana Kaahlii GawGaay Skidegate Inlet • Take a guided cultural tour on land or on the water • Hike Kuu Jad TlldaGaw Sleeping Beauty Mountain • Enjoy a meal at local cafes and restaurants • Enjoy a variety of shops downtown • Check out local shops and artist carving sheds (call in advance before visiting)
HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE AREA TAAW K’YUU TOW HILL ROAD AREA • Xaaydas Giinaa.ah Naay Haida Heritage Centre at Kay Llnagaay and Saahlinda Naay the Haida Gwaii Museum • Visit a gallery for artwork and more by local artists • Choice of grocery store, restaurants and food trucks for lunch and dinner • Hike up to the viewing platforms on Taaw Tow Hill • Check your fuel at Taaw Naay Gas station • Check out the impressive spray at Kwahtsiisda the Blow Hole at high tide • Walk the beach along HlGaagilda K’iiwaay Front Street and look for whales and seals • Walk the 17km (one-way) beach to Nee Kun Rose Spit • Saahlinda Naay Haida Gwaii Museum and Xaayda ‘Waadxanaay Longhouse Gift Shop • Hike the SGidlii Gandlee K’yuuwee White Creek Trail • Visit Haida artists at their studios (call before to confirm times and availability) • Search for agates on Hl’yaalan Galguusd Agate Beach • Walk the GuuhlGa Siiwaay K’yuu Spirit Lake Trail • Hike out to Tlldas East Beach via the Cape Fife Trail • Explore the bogs and landscape of Nee Kun area Naikoon Park
40 For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca 41 Haida gwaii Trip Planner Photo: Gregory Gould Photo: Jags Brown DO IT YOURSELF, BY SEASON SAMPLE ISLAND ITINERARY
FALL & WINTER SPRING & SUMMER DAY 1 kun Grey whales along KandaliiGwii Hecate Strait. Check out HlGaa K'aayhllna Balance Rock and the artisan galleries of • Surfing and kiting: check out Hl’yaalanG alguusd Agate • Beachcombing for glass fishing floats and agates Welcome to Masset. Pick up a rental car and groceries in HlGaagilda. Spend a night in the village or check out the great Beach and Hl'yaalan Gandlee Hiellen River for good breaks • Visit the Xaaydas Giinaa.ah Naay Haida Heritage Centre town. Check in for a couple of nights at a cozy place in town options in Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte. • Storm watching: listen to the pounding waves in an off- • Roadside whale-watching (April-May are good or a B&B situated along Hl’yaalang waagusd North Beach. the-grid ocean-side cabin along Taaw K’yuu Tow Hill Road whale-watching months) Head out to Taaw Tow Hill (30-minute drive). Spend the after- DAY 5 or watch the surf at Kwahtsiisda the Blow Hole trail end • Stand-up paddle board in Gaw Kaahlii Masset Inlet noon acclimatizing to a slower pace – sink your feet into the Gwaii Haanas exploration day! Take a Zodiac day tour. Soak • Beachcombing: look for wash-up after the winter storms • Hiking: the Anvil Trail in Tll.aal Tlell or climb Kuu Jad sand and consider your next few days. in the re-opened hotsprings, meet the Haida Watchmen and (be sure to be safe around those waves) TlldaGaaw K’yuu Sleeping Beauty Mountain Trail just west DAY 2 learn about the poles at K’uuna Llnagaay. If you’re lucky you’ll • Go along the Pesuta shipwreck hike of Daajing Giids see a variety of whales and of course many different types of Explore the Taaw Tow Hill area and Hl’yaalang waagusd North • Holiday craft fairs in all communities • Look into Zodiac or sea plane tours of Gwaii Haanas sea and songbirds. • Winter concerts: check the Haida Gwaii Arts Council and Beach. In the morning, climb Taaw and enjoy unparalleled DAY 6 the Queen Charlotte Visitor Centre for dates and times views of Siigee Dixon Entrance. Have a picnic lunch and then head back to Masset; grab a coffee and spend the afternoon Explore HlGaagilda Skidegate and Daajing Giids Queen Char- MUST SEE AND DO, ANYTIME OF YEAR exploring local galleries and shops. Tour Gaw Tlagee Old Mas- lotte. Visit the beautiful Saahlinda Naay Haida Heritage Mu- sett and watch for the gyaa'aang monumental poles situated seum. Browse the shops of Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte • Hike the GuuhlGa Siiwaay K’yuu Spirit Lake Trail in • Drive to Chaahluu Kaahli Rennell Sound to experience the throughout the village, stop by the Haida art and gift shops. and meet with locals at one of the cafés, or for a change of HlGaagilda Skidegate west-coast waves. Please see the advice for driving on Take dinner at one of the local options and then back out to pace, hike up Kuu Jad TlldaGaaw k'yuu Sleeping Beauty trail active logging roads on page 44. and take in the 360 degree view from the top. Given the new • Visit the Tll.aal Tlell artisan shops and stop at Misty the beach to enjoy a lingering sunset. Spend a night two at a ferry schedule you can even take off for an afternoon in K'il Meadows Campground B&B, walk out onto the beach and look at the stars or enjoy the rain on the roof. Llnagaay Sandspit — walk the Dover Trail, check out the new • Walk along the magnificent old-growth trees along the CULTURAL EXPERIENCES DAY 3 mural art at SuperValu and consider spending the night at a Golden Spruce Trail outside of Gamadiis Port Clements • Xaaydas Giinaa.ah Naay Haida Heritage Centre at Kay B&B. Drive to Gamadiis Port Clements (1/2 hour). Pick up some • Take a tour of the Gaw Tlagee Old Massett gyaa'aang Llnagaay and Saahlinda Naay Haida Gwaii Museum groceries and spend the night in the village. Explore the Port DAY 7 monumental poles • Gwaii Haanas tours with Haida-owned and operated tour Clements Museum and walk on the Rainbow Wharf for incred- Prepare for your departure. Think about all the places that • Go to Hl’yaalang waagusd North Beach! Walk the guides ible views of the inlet and west coast mountains. Drive out to you weren’t able to get to and make plans to return to Haida accessible Kwahtsiisda the blow hole and climb to the • Tour out to Ts'aa.ahl Llnagaay, one of many village sites the Golden Spruce Trail (four kilometres from town, on a grav- Gwaii. Our winter season here is a whole other experience – Tow Hill lookout platforms along Daawuuxusda the west coast of Haida Gwaii el road). The trail is just 20-minutes long and features large try storm watching and winter surfing or enjoy a day in front monumental red cedar and Sitka spruce. It is a really lovely • Stroll along the Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte sea walk • Land tours with Haida-owned and operated tour guides of a wood stove by the window, with a good book while an walk along the Yaaguun Gandlee Yakoun River. Head to Tll. impressive storm blows away outside. • Bird watching at the "spit" in K’il Llnagaay Sandspit and in • Visit the Haida canoe at Gamadiis Port Clements aal for dinner and a walk along the Tll.aal Gandlee Tlell River. the Delkatla Nature Sanctuary in Masset • Gaw Tlagee Old Massett gyaa'aang monumental poles DAY 4 • Visit Diinal GawGa Gray Bay, south of K’il Llnagaay tour Sandspit. Please see the advice for driving on active On the road to the south end to explore Tll.aal Tlell and the • Haida artist's studio visit, self-guided tour — please logging roads on page 44. artisan shops and galleries on Wiggins Road; hike out to the contact the artists in advance Pesuta shipwreckor take the Anvil Trail loop. Stop for lunch and then head down to HlGaagilda Skidegate. Watch for
42 For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca 43 Haida gwaii Trip Planner THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED TRAVELLING ON LOGGING ROADS urn your lights on! Day or night, the more visible you are, the better your chances of Tavoiding trouble. Use your lights at all times. Forest roads are not built to the same standards as public highways. For example, they often have sharp, blind corners and narrow sections. All drivers must be prepared to react to unexpected conditions and to be able to stop safely. For your own sake, stay alert and always be ready to take evasive action. Remember, dust means traffic. Photo: Guy Kimola
Logging trucks use all or most of the road width because of their size. Please give logging trucks and other industrial traffic the right-of-way.Due to their size, they just can’t manoeuvre the way personal vehicles can. UNDERSTANDING TIDES Loaded logging trucks definitely have the “right-of-weight”! When you ees a logging truck or any other heavy equipment coming, get to a turnout and let the oncoming vehicle pass by. TIDES IN HAIDA GWAII You may find turnouts on either side of the road — whichever sideit’s on, get to it and wait idal currents occur in conjunction with the rise and fall K’IIS GWAAY Compared to predictions for Prince Rupert until it is safe to proceed. Langara Point HL'YAALANG Tof the tide. The vertical motion of the tides near the 10 min early MASSET 20 min late WAAGUSD shore causes the water to move horizontally, creating cur- Before you go, let someone know where you’re heading and when you expect to return. If you North Beach 5 min early rents. When a tidal current moves toward the land and do get lost or stranded, stay with your vehicle. It will provide shelter until help arrives, and away from the sea, it “floods.” When it moves toward the generally, rescuers can find it more quickly than they can an individual in the woods. Forest sea away from the land, it “ebbs.” road users must be prepared for emergencies; there are no hospitals, restaurants, telephone GAWÉE SDAA GAW KAAHLII Alexandra Narrows Masset Inlet booths or gas stations. Be sure to take the following: Flood starts 0:15 after low Flood starts 2:50 after low Tide tables are essential for exploring the beaches of Haida Ebb starts 0:10 after hight Ebb starts 2:30 after high • Emergency food and water • Extra fuel/fire extinguisher/axe Gwaii. We have extreme tides here, up to 7.3 metre (24 foot) • Navigational/communication aids (maps, • First aid kit/warm clothing/sleeping bags GAMADIIS Port Clements tidal variation. Booklets are published annually by the Cana- Low 3:05 later compass, charts, and fully charged GPS, • A tool kit/shovel/tire emergency repair High 2:50 later dian Hydrographic Service and they provide instructions on cellular or satellite phone, VHS or hand- kit JUUS KAAHLII the use of tables to determine daily tides (time and height) Juskatla held radio, battery chargers) Low 5:15 later for specific locations. High 4:45 later SK’IILUU For Haida Gwaii you should have: A WORD ABOUT MOBILE DEVICE ACCESS ON HAIDA GWAII KAAHLII Nesto Inlet 10 min early DAAJING GIIDS Queen Charlotte obile device coverage on Haida Gwaii is good in some locations and “iffy” in others. Low 20 min later • Canadian Tide & Current Tables Volume 7: MYou can pick up a reliable signal in the area around Xaana Kaahlii GawGaay Skide- High same as Prince Rupert “Queen Charlotte Sound to Dixon Entrance” gate Inlet – Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte, HlGaagilda Skidegate, K’il Llnagaay Sandspit SKAATS’INSII or go to waterlevels.gc.ca or tides.gc.ca – and up coast to about Gandll SkahlGaal St. Mary’s Spring. After that your bars drop Dawson Harbour 15 min early Tide tables provide information on the time and height of the rapidly. Further north there are a couple of spots where texts can be picked up but the KUUGAHL next most reliable spot is at the end of Wiggins Road in Tll.aal Tlell. Going north, your DAA.ULGAAY McCoy Cove tide. It’s important to remember there are factors that can Skidegate Narrows Low 15 min later phone will chirp again at Gamadiis Port Clements and then just south of Masset. Service (Floods west) High 5 min later increase the effects of the tides, such as your location and West Beacon in the area around the entrance of Gaw Kaahlii Masset Inlet is reliable, but as you head Flood starts 3:20-3:50 after low K’YAL GAWGA storms. Ebb starts 3:00-3:30 after high Pacofi out to Hl’yaalang waagusd North Beach, service thins out. Check out the centerfold map East Beacon Low 10 min later Flood starts 1:50-2:50 after low High same as Prince Learn to read tide tables before traveling along the beach. A for locations, and remember, the back-country is a “signal-free” area – enjoy! Ebb starts 1:30-2:30 after high Rupert famous Hawaiian, Duke Kahanamoku, helped popularize the
TAA SUU GWAAY K’AAS motto, “Never turn your back on the ocean.” His reasons were EMERGENCY SERVICES Hunger Harbour East Copper 20 min early Island twofold: he wanted people to watch out for the physical dan- Gaw Tlagee Gamadiis/Tll.aal HlGaagilda/Daajing Giids K'il Llnagaay Same as gers of being hit by a wave, and he wanted mankind to show Prince Rupert Masset/North End Port Clements/Tlell Skidegate/Queen Charlotte Sandspit respect for the ocean. Rogue or sneaker waves can appear at 800-461-9911 Estimated using predictions from any time and on any beach. the Canadian Hydrographic Ser- Ambulance vice. Estimates are unofficial and Rip tides can form on any beach with surf. They are often 250-626-5511 250-557-4355 250-559-8300 250-637-2222 may vary significantly from reality. found near jetties or between sand bars. If you are caught in Use with caution. Fire Fire Fire Fire a current that pulls you quickly from shore, swim parallel to From Haida Fisheries Program / KAY TAY DAANAAY 250-626-3991 205-626-3991 250-559-4421 250-559-4421 Crawford Ecological Consulting Cape St. James the beach to break out of it. Low 10 min early RCMP RCMP RCMP RCMP High 5 min early
44 For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca 45 Haida gwaii Trip Planner Photo: Guy Kimola Photo: Jen Bailey
TSUNAMIS & EVACUATIONS ACCESSIBLE ATTRACTIONS
tsunami is a natural hazard consisting of a series of When disaster hits, there won’t be time to buy emergency sup- Along, surge-like waves generated when a large volume plies. Ensure you have emergency kits for your home, workplace aida Gwaii cannot yet be designated as wheelchair-friendly, but communities are working toward that goal. There of ocean water is rapidly displaced. Most tsunamis are and vehicle. They should all contain food, water and supplies for Hare a number of attractions and activities that are accessible to people with limited mobility. caused by major subduction earthquakes, where there is a minimum of 72 hours. A week or longer is better. Information • Hl’yaalang waagusd North Beach area offers easy access • Installed in spring of 2019, a new beach-access mobili- significant displacement of the ocean floor. Tsunami waves on building these kits can be found here at emergencygov.bc.ca/ to the beach with parking immediately beside the beach. ty mat is now installed on the beach at Misty Meadows contain considerable energy; they can travel rapidly further PreparedBC. Do not return to low-lying areas to gather your be- The beach might prove challenging as the ground is often Campground in Tll.aal Tlell. This mat is designed to float inland compared to ordinary coastal waves. A tsunami may longings. People should wait until they get notification that the soft depending on wind and tides. The area has many plac- above the sand and give a firm surface to move a wheel- not look like a wave at all, but will have very strong currents tsunami warning has been lifted or as instructed by emergency es to sit and enjoy the surf in close proximity to a parked chair along. under its surface. officials before returning to low-lying areas. vehicle. At the Hiellen campground: Tsunami are a challenging hazard to respond to. The arrival TSUNAMI SIRENS • The ocean-side drive from Tll.aal Tlell to Daajing Giids time of the wave generated far out at sea can be predicted • Kwahtsiisda the Blow Hole at Hl’yaalang waagusd North Queen Charlotte features gorgeous views of the open fairly accurately, however, the intensity of the wave when it Tsunami sirens are located in the communities of Daajing Giids Beach area and a tour of the monumental poles in Gaw ocean from the roadside. At Halibut Bight rest stop: reaches shore is more difficult to predict, particularly in real Queen Charlotte, HlGaagilda Skidegate, Masset and Gaw Tlagee Old Massett is an enjoyable and easily navigable time during an event. Tlagee Old Massett. The warnings sound like an air-raid siren. north-island tour. The monumental poles in Gaw Tlagee • Xaaydas Giinaa.ah Naay Haida Heritage Centre and While a distant tsunami will likely allow time for an official can be viewed from the roadside and the Kwahtsiisda is Saahlinda Naay Haida Gwaii Museum at Kay Llnagaay were tsunami warning to be given, a local tsunami can reach the Every Tuesday at 7pm, the Village of Masset tests their a 20-minute walk (each way) via a wheelchair-accessible designed to be wheelchair-accessible. Although the inside shoreline in minutes and may NOT allow for an official warning emergency sirens; the fire department call-out warning is first, boardwalk from a parking lot. At the trailhead: of the centre is accessible, the outside area where the to take place. and the tsunami warning siren is second. The Village of Queen monumental pole tours are conducted has proven difficult Charlotte and HlGaagilda test their sirens every third Thursday • The Delkatla Wildlife Sanctuary and Nature Centre are to some due to the gravel covering. Tours at the Centre EVACUATION NOTIFICATIONS in October on “Shake Out BC” day. Please see shakeoutbc.ca also wheelchair-accessible to some degree. The centre and include the monumental pole, Gyaa K’id Naay carving If you are near the coast and feel a major earthquake making it for more information on this province-wide earthquake drill day. bird-watching tower next to it are easily accessible via the house, Haida canoe and weaving tours. difficult to stand, you must “Drop, Cover, and Hold On" and then walk and drive along Cemetery Road. evacuate to higher ground immediately with your 72hr emergen- ON HAIDA GWAII, EMERGENCY NOTIFICATION CAN BE: • The Queen Charlotte sea walk is located in central cy kit. High ground is considered anything over 10metres above • An easy pathway runs along the waterfront at Sunset Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte. It provides a stunning • If you feel a prolonged earthquake large enough to the high-water mark. If you are unfamiliar with the area, ask your Park in Gamadiis Port Clements. The trail along the estu- view of Xaana Kaahlii GawGaay Skidegate Inlet and make standing difficult accommodation provider about evacuation spots and muster ary was designed to be wheelchair accessible but it can Queen Charlotte Harbour at the Visitor Centre, the Queen points. In late 2018, BC Hydro poles were painted with blue ar- • Tsunami Siren be challenging at times if the chair tires are narrow. The Charlotte Community Centre, and at the VIRL Queen rows to indicate the path to evacuation areas. • Continuous vehicle horns or police/fire sirens two kilometre path leads to a bird-watching tower that is Charlotte branch libary: If a tsunami threat (or any other emergency such as flooding • AlertReady: all LTE cell phones, radio, TV wheelchair accessible up to the first level. or wildfires) is identified, authorities will notify the public via • EC Alert Environment Canada EC Alert, VHF 16, broadcast media, and • Gamadiis Port Clements has also improved the Golden • ePACT call out: SMS, phone, email (only if registered at Spruce Trail to make it wheelchair-accessible. The trail direct to all LTE cell phones through AlertReady — the BC epactnetwork.com/en/signup/haidagwaiialerts) Emergency Alerting System — in the impacted area. The Haida takes about 20 minutes to walk each way. This is an inspir- Gwaii Emergency Management system will also send alerts via • VHF 16 ing old-growth rainforest trail. At the trailhead: SMS, phone, email to those that have registered with the ePACT • If you feel an earthquake you can check the Pacific service epactnetwork.com/en/signup/ Tsunami Notification Centre website for real-time haidagwaiialerts. warnings: ptwc.weather.gov
46 For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca 47 Haida gwaii Trip Planner Photo: Guy Kimola CALENDAR OF HAIDA GWAII EVENTS CALENDAR OF HAIDA GWAII EVENTS
MARCH DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE AUGUST SEPTEMBER DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE HOSPITAL DAY held in Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte every third TLL.AAL TLELL K'IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPIT Saturday in June (in 2019 that's June 22). Hospital Day has been an HAIDA GWAII FILM FESTIVAL, held in March at Daajing Giids annual tradition on the islands since 1908, when islanders came to- TLELL FALL FAIR held on Sunday, August 4th in Tll.aal Tlell - the SANDSPIT WILD HARVEST FESTIVAL held on September 6 Queen Charlotte - The Haida Gwaii Film Festival, founded in 2009, gether to raise funds to build the first hospital. To this day, Hospital Sunday of the long weekend. Earliest fall fair in B.C.! The original and 7 in K’il Llnagaay Sandspit. This event includes speakers, wild brings Canadian and international films to Haida Gwaii. Day continues to provide monies for purchasing healthcare equipment Fair started in 1912 in the Lawnhill area of Haida Gwaii. The current mushroom identification lessons, food processing workshops, ecol- for various healthcare programs all over the Islands, as well as bursaries format of the Tlell Fall Fair was established in 1982 By the Graham ogy tours and more! See sandspitwildharves.wixsite.com or email KAY LLNAGAAY for medical education. Islands East Coast Farmers Institute. For event details call Linda [email protected] Louis at 250-559-8975. ALL ISLANDS ART SHOW held in March at Saahlinda Naay the Haida Gwaii Museum. The All Islands Art Show is an annual event held JULY HAIDA GWAII MUSEUM GALA held in the fall at Kay Llnagaay. to showcase the artists of Haida Gwaii working in a variety of media. GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS THE EDGE OF THE WORLD MUSIC FESTIVAL August 9, 10, Collectors come to bid in an art auction featuring pieces from is- A Youth All Islands Art Show is also held on a bi-annual basis. 11 in Tll.aal Tlell - Since 1975, the EOTW music festival is an annual lands artists. See haidagwaiimuseum.ca for more information. CANADA DAY EVENTS on the nearest July 1 weekend in Gama- event that happens the second weekend in August. The venue is APRIL diis Port Clements. Mud bog, fishing derby and more. The day be- one of the largest in Haida Gwaii, and has attracted musicians and gins with a pancake breakfast followed by a parade that leads the tourists because of it's uniqueness, hospitality, location, and up- SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER SENIORS’ WINTER GAMES held in April, an all-islands event, the crowds to the community park to participate in go-kart races, games close and personal feel. See edgefestival.ca for more information. Winter Games is a popular event for all islanders (50+) and is orga- and more. The highlight of the celebration is the mud bog with par- K'IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPIT nized each year by one of the communities. ticipants from every community on Haida Gwaii. MASSET COHO SALMON DERBY held in late September/October, K’il Ll- nagaay Sandspit and K’aasda GawGa Copper Bay. The annual Coho MAY HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE HLGA HLK’AATS IIHLANGA AGATE MAN TRIATHLON held August 17 at Gantl’ Gadaas Pure Lake and Masset. The race consists Derby hosted by the Sandspit Rod and Gun Club. Contact Jim Henry GAWU KUNS SIIWAAY MOSQUITO LAKE SKIDEGATE DAYS in July at HlGaagilda Skidegate with canoe rac- of a 500m swim in Gantl’ Gadaas, a 20km bike ride to the Masset for more information at 250.637.2212. es, salmon BBQ and more. The Skidegate Days celebrations kicks Fire Hall, and a 6km run around Dal Kaahlii the Delkatla Sanctuary. TROUT DERBY held in May on Moresby Island. This fun family event off with a pancake breakfast at the "small hall" in HlGaagilda. The Participants are welcome to register alone or in teams. To register at Gawu Kuns Siiwaay Mosquito Lake is hosted on the Sunday of the multi-day event includes a slo-pitch tournament, Haida canoe races, see hgrec.com or e-mail [email protected]. NOVEMBER long weekend by the Sandspit Rod and Gun Club. This is a popular games, and a salmon barbecue dinner. HL’YAALANG WAAGUSD NORTH BEACH weekend of camping and fishing for all ages. Contact Jim Henry for KAY LLNAGAAY more information at 250-637-2212. EXPRESSION SESSIONS held in November at Hl’yaalang KAY LLNAGAAY HAIDA HERITAGE CENTER CELEBRATION traditionally held waagusd North beach to coincide with the November full moon. MASSET th on the 3rd weekend in August at Kay Llnagaay. This celebration TOTEM TO TOTEM MARATHON held on July 20 at Kay Ll- Each year North Beach Surf Shop organizes a weekend of surfing is for the award-winning cultural centre, and it begins with a clan HARBOUR DAY held during the May long weekend in Masset. A nagaay. The marathon runs along gorgeous shoreline from the Haida parade followed by a day of traditional Haida celebrations. See at Hl’yaalang waagusd North Beach and Masset. The weekend fun day with that starts off with a parade, a set of games, sports, Heritage Centre to St. Mary’s Spring. This marathon is a designated haidaheritagecentre.com for more information. features a fun evening of Open Mic, Art and Craft show, Adopt- BBQs, fish bakes, pancake breakfasts, and even morning bird/muffin qualifier race for the Boston Marathon. Seetotemtototem.com for more information. a-Grom session, and the Tow Hillbilly classic surf session. walk. See massetbc.com for more information. K'IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPIT See northbeachsurfshop.com for more information. JUNE K'IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPIT MORESBY EXPLORERS PIG ROAST held on the last Saturday GAW TLAGEE OLD MASSETT LOGGERS SPORTS DAY held Saturday, July 27th at K’il Llnagaay in August at K’il Llnagaay Sandspit. The Moresby Explorers crew Sandspit. Loggers Sports Day has been a tradition in Sandspit for welcomes everybody for an end-of-season party, pig roast and ABORIGINAL DAY CELEBRATION held in Gaw Tlagee Old Mas- over 50 years. The day begins with a parade, followed by competi- potluck-style dinner with live bands. For more information, see sett - annually on June 21. Come celebrate the unique heritage, tions in axe throwing, sawing, setting chokers, burling and a greased moresbyexplorers.com. diverse culture and outstanding achievements of the Haida pole climb. Nation.
The Gwaii Trust Society owns and manages a multi-million-dollar perpetual fund for the benefit of all the people of Haida Gwaii. The fund generates investment income and the Society distributes part of that income every year through a variety of grant programs, including those that support arts, culture and community events. This page is sponsored by For more information, visit gwaiitrust.com. 48 For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca 49 Haida gwaii Trip Planner 'IID K INTS'II K Rose Harbor XID Island ANG Kunghit GWAAY G Cape St. James AY TAY DAANAAY K
K’il AAHLII GA
GWII
AW Inlet Skincuttle SUU K SUU G NGS
A
Y ANDALII
Hecate Strait X d WAAY KUN K Y n
A u Burnaby Island
o GWAAY.YAAY A SG
S G ANDLL K’IN GWAAY.YAAY N z . e G U r HLK’YAH HLK’YAH U e P n ANG GWAAY Jua Gray Bay SG GANDAAW Ga ’UUNA LLNAGAAY aw ALAS G K ’UUNA GWAAY X GWAAY T’AANUU LLNAGAAY K Lyell IslandLyell TLLGA KUN Diinal kidegate KUN
S Cumshewa Inlet
NEE KUN Rose Spit RUPERT PRINCE TO ROUTE FERRIES BC ALGUUSD G K’IL LLNAGAAY Sandspit AAHLII
K DAMAXYAA NATIONAL NATIONAL HL’YAALAN Hiellen AND HAIDA HERITAGE SITE PARK RESERVE, RESERVE, PARK AREA RESERVE, RESERVE, AREA
GWAII HAANAS GWAII
CONSERVATION CONSERVATION AAY INUL
NATIONAL MARINE NATIONAL
Louise Island G K Coast West
’UUNA GWAAY AW Agate Beach Agate HL’YAALAN HL’YAALAN
HL K AAGILDA DAAWUUXUSDA UNDAAY Misty Misty Meadows TAAW Dover Trail
G
TLL.AAL Tlell KAAHLII G KAAHLII Tow Hill ADAAS 16 YELLOWHEAD HLG G
Park AANA AANA Skidegate Inlet Skidegate X AATS’II Naikoon Provincial Provincial 16 Alliford Bay G YELLOWHEAD NAAY KUN Pure Lake UNS LLNAGAAY UNS K ANTL’ ANTL’ Provincial ParkProvincial G 16 SIIGEE YELLOWHEAD AWU TLL.AAL MASSET G Moresby Camp Moresby GAMADIIS Port Clements Dixon Entrance AAY TAW MDAS AW SG ANDLAAY ISLAND Sunset Sunset Park YAAGUN YAAGUN GÁ G TLAGEE Old Massett G MORESBY SIIWAAY K’ADJUU SIIWAAY
TAA SUU Tasu Inlet Tasu KAAHLII YAAGUN
DAAJING GIIDS
Queen Charlotte AW AW
NANG
Masset Inlet Masset G Watchman site Watchman terminal Ferry Campground Airport Inlet XALDANGAAS AWEE JUUS JUUS AAHLII SKIDEGATE LANDING SKIDEGATE
Juskatla Juskatla G K ALLIFORD BAY HAIDA HERITAGE SITE & CONSERVANCIES, ECOLOGICAL RESERVES AND PROVINCIAL PARKS KAAHLII DAAWUUXUSDA ISLAND QUEEN CHARLOTTE SANDSPIT GRAHAM Engelfield Bay Naden HarborNaden SKIDEGATE NEEDAN NEEDAN OLD MASSETT AYSUN K PORT CLEMENTS PORT LEGEND
KAAHLII UNDAAY TLELL G A LLNAGAAY A LLNAGAAY Chaatl Island Chaatl TOW HILL TOW G
Rennell Sound AAGILDA G AATS’II AW TLAGEE AW Reserve CHAAHLUU VLADIMIR Ecological MASSET GAMADIIS TLL.AAL TAAW G HL GUUHL DAAJING GIIDS G K’IL LLNAGAAY J. KRAJINA Marble Island
TS’AA.AHL GWAAY.YAAY ’IIS GWAAY K’YUUSDA K Island Langara DUU GUUSD Village area Protected (approx) area Mobile device road Paved road Gravel Logging road route Ferry GWAAYGIIDS This map is not to scale and not intended for navigational purposes. This map is not to scale and intended for km km km km km km km APPROXIMATE DRIVING DISTANCES APPROXIMATE km 1 6 4 14 36 22 43 30 Hippa Island Be prepared for slippery or iced check roads: drivebc.ca Ferry Trip Ferry Trip Most of the routes do not have a good phoneMost routes have the not cell do of signal. - roughly min 25 km West Coast West 132 DUU GUUSD DUU NAASDUU GWAAY.YAAY 50 For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca 5151 Haida gwaii Trip Planner
To TAAW GAW TLAGEE OLD MASSETT MASSET Masset Airport SIIGEE Dixon Entrance Tow Hill
Sanctuary Walking Path Penna Rd Hlkyaan k’ust’aan K’yuuwaas CEMETERY DR
OMVC Administration Chinni St Moon St Office & Bear St Haida Dal Kaahlii Delkatla Wildlife Sanctuary Shark St Community Frog St Health TOW HILL RD Hall Centre GUUD K’YUUWAAS TRUMPETER DR EAGLE AV Northern Haida Pintail Cres E Illgaaywaadaa Naay K’yuuwaasTs’anni K’yuuwaas Naani K’yuuwaas K’yuu t’askajuuhidyas Gwaii Hospital Teal Cres ung K’yuuwaas Iijaaw NORTHWEST DR Brant Cres K Naani St & Health Centre Swan Cres YAAHL K’YUUWAAS K’yuuwaas Taan Dogwood Cres RAVEN RD K’aat K’yuuwaas Balsam Ts’ang K’yuuwaas Loop Rd Cedar Cres PARK DR Cres Alder Cres GUUD K’YUUWAASTo Masset Chief YAAHL K’YUUWAAS To Gaw Tahayghan Elm Cres Fir Cres McBride St Matthews Old Massett Elementary GTNS Charles St School EAGLE AV Tahayghen Dr Hemlock Cres High School Mallard St BURGESS AVE RAVEN RD E Spruce Cres HODGES AVE Maple Cres Old Beach Rd Pine Cres Wilson St Masset Harbour Orr St COLLISON AVE RCMP Masset VIC Dixon Entrance CHRISTIE ST MAIN ST McLeod St Maritime Museum McDonald St
Cook St DELKATLA ST Millard St GAW KAAHLII Massett Inlet Wallace St HARRISON AVE N Masset
GAW KAAHLII Massett Inlet Masset Wharf Sea YELLOWHEAD To TLAGA GAWTLAAS Plane 16 New Town Base GAMADIIS N Port Clements
n recent history Gaw Tlagee the Haida master carvers continue to fill After exploring, hungry visitors can find ust uptown you will find the rel- You will find a visitor centre, hardware, Right behind Masset is Dal Kaahlii Iland around Masset inlet was a busy Gaw Tlagee’s skies with gyaa'ang monu- meals at the gas bar & grill. You might Jatively young community of Mas- electronics, groceries, adventure-gear, Delkatla Bird Sanctuary. You can metropolitan trading centre, crowd- mental columns, as they have since the be fortunate to arrive in time for one set, which traces its name to a similar marine sports equipment, credit union, encircle its leisurely 5.6-kilometre trail ed with canoe traffic. A rich natural arrival of kaaydaay trees up to 14,500 of many ceremonies open to visitors, origin as Old Massett. Registered in gas station, repair-shop, restaurants, and roadway in about 45 minutes. ecosystem supported 11 Haida vil- years ago. Please show respect to where you could join the community for 1907, Masset's roots lie primarily in hotels, library, post office, coffee shop Depending on the season and the day, lage sites found in and around Gaw these living community members. Visi- dinner. A boat launch is available should fishing, logging and the military. The and B&B’s. Masset Airport is a quick you may be in for some incredible bird Tlagee. Today the modern village of tors also will find the village filled with you prefer to catch your own meal. You Dixon Entrance Maritime Museum will five-minute drive north. watching. Dal Kaahlii offers you the Gaw Tlagee sprawls across three of woven, painted, carved, engraved, and will find a gas station in town onGuud open a window into Masset's maritime chance to see some rarer species and these, including Gad Gaywáas at its hammered masterpieces. A stop at a k'yuuwaas Eagle Avenue. roots. All kinds of vessels arrive and perhaps even catch some once-in-a- north end, Ts’ágwaals towards its cen- gift shop will provide a glimpse into the depart from Masset Harbour, including lifetime phenomena. tre, and K’áayang towards its south. diverse mediums Haida have mastered. local fishing charters. Photo: Guy Kimola Photo: Guy Kimola
Looking from Gaw Kaahlii Masset Inlet to Ts'ágwaals. A calm morning view of Masset Harbour.
5252 For more information: gohaidagwaii.ca For more information: gohaidagwaii.ca 53 Haida gwaii Trip Planner HL’YAALANG WAAGUSD NORTH BEACH & HL’YAALANG HIELLEN GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS
HL'YAALAN Hiellen Campground HL'YAALAN GANDLEE Hiellen River To Masset Ryland Rd TAAW HL’YAALAN GALGUUSD White Creek trail To Tll.aal Tow Hill Agate Beach Campground K'YUU Nyeholt Rd Tlell GANDLEE YAAGUN IDLII Industrial Park Rd Yakan Point (IR) SG GANDLEE Grouse St SGIDLII HIGHWAY 16 YELLOWHEAD White Creek 16 SG TOW HILL RD ANGAN Jasper St Froese Sub
Cedar Ave E G ANDLEE
Sangan River Water St Dyson St Tugwaal Keyhole Port Clements Sangan Dr Beach Access Naikoon Ave Museum & Info Centre BAYVIEW DR Limberlost Ave Boat Harbour Village Office Port Clements N Community Park St Park St Park Tow Hill Community Hemlock St Kiosk & Beach Access N Eagle Road Tingley St TSAAWAN Spruce St TOW HILL RD Yakoun St
Cedar Ave W Hemlock St G Sunset Park RV & Campground ANDLEE Rainbow
Wharf BAYVIEW DR Gravel walking path SIIGEE Dixon Entrance K’iid K’iyaas To: Chown River (on pavement) AlderWilliams Ave St (on activeGolden logging Spruce roads) trail BAYVIEW DR Ops/Skonun Point Beach Access Sunset Park Trail GAW KAAHLII Masset Inlet CFB Masset To Masset “Elephant Cage”
Gaanuwee Supernatural Beings lages concentrated along this coastline. and a coffee bus. Every year a few vis- drive 35 minutes south up Gaw store, hostel, restaurant and bar, gas Sinhabit all corners of Haida Gwaii. The concentration of Haida households itors lose their vehicles during a drive AK aahlii Massett Inlet will carry station, post office, library and docks. You can find many of them very eas- here may have supplied the area with on the beach, to the annoyance and at visitors through bogs and cedar for- Some residents also maintain business- ily. Just a half-hour drive east from its nam:; Naay Kun House Point. times amusement of Islands residents. ests, past Gantl’ Gadaas Pure Lake to es in adventure tourism, including kay- Masset you will find Taaw Tlldaawee Don’t risk being “that guy”. Do not take Gamadiis Port Clements. This is one aking and fishing outfits. Be certain to Tow Hill. You can drive a gravel road From Hl’yaalang, hikers can access rental vehicles out on the beach, and do of seven village sites that flourished stop at the Port Clements Museum to through old-growth forests, then fol- the Cape Fife Trail. If the 12-hour not drive above the high tide mark or on around Yaagun Kaahlii Stl’ang, an es- see a terrific collection of objects that low a boardwalk to Taaw’s foot. With walk won’t suffice, then the three- sensitive razor clams beds. Be respect- tuary at the mouth of Yaagun Gandlee defined Haida Gwaii’s recent history. a flooding tide and strong swell you day East Beach Trail stretches south ful of the environment you are in. Yakoun River to the west. With Gám- On the west side of town you will find will see Kwahtsiisda the Blow Hole to Tll.aal. Along the way you will pass das Gandlee to its east, the mod- RV and camping sites at Sunset Park, throwing sea spray high into the air. through domains of numerous SGaanu- ern village of Gamadiis lives among wee, among whom live Gaahllnaas, abundant natural ecological wealth. a two-kilometre trail along berry-filled You will find Hl’yaalang village on the Utláaman, Gadaa K’aw, Gaaw XanhlGa The waterways shelter nine salmonid waterfront, and a walk through old- eastern bank of Hl’yaalang Gandlee. Sk’aajawaay, Xaasa, Kiid Gaataalaa, species, two lamprey species, and growth at K’iid K’iiyaas K’yuu Golden K'iygang the Haida canon of oral his- SGuuhlGuu Kuuna, Nang Na Sandlanee birds of all kinds. These nourish and Spruce Trail. The gravel road leading tories confirm, this village is one of the ‘Giidangwaas, Tl’aajaang Kuuna and maintain surrounding spruce and ce- west out of Gamadiis turns south to a vast network of logging roads. These many villages existing below and above NáaGa Saandllnaa Gaydangwas. Less dar old-growth forests. Photo: Flavien Mabit it, where SGaanuwee live. Sprawling ambitious hikers may settle for SGidlii roads will lead you to Chaahluu Kaahlii sandy and stony beaches, old-growth Gandlee K’yuuwee White Creek Trail, The modern village at Gamadiis was Rennell Sound and Yaagun Yakoun Lake. forests and diverse bog ecosystems an easy two to three hour-long walk founded in 1907 under the name Queen- It can be easy to get lost. You will need characterize the surrounding area. In through beautiful bog ecosystems. stown. Residents later changed the accurate maps, and a VHF radio tuned o u r physic al name to Port Clements in 1914. Today to the local frequency is recommended. realm, many You will find numerous cabins and hard-working and friendly logging fami- The Rainbow Wharf. neighbouring vil- campsites in the area, plus gift shops lies fill the town. You will find a grocery
54 For more information: gohaidagwaii.ca For more information: gohaidagwaii.ca 55 Haida gwaii Trip Planner
TLL.AAL TLELL Haida House HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE K'yuu K'uu7an Beach Access KANDALIIGWII Pesuta / East K'yuu Huudjuu Beach trailhead Hecate Strait
Beitush Rd Sk'aadgaa brisk 20-minute drive south To Gamadiis Naay A Port Clements Andrews Place Rd Elementary from Gamadiis Port Clem- School T'iis K'yuu ents will bring you to Tll.aal. Balance Rock Rd Sdal K'iiwaay Tll.aal Gandlaay the Tlell River winds Misty Meadows Campground Council of the K'yuu Xaa7ans over 55 kilometres inland. Plentiful Hlt'alga K'yuu Haida Nation Gaa Hlt'alga K'yuu salmon return to spawn and support Naikoon Park Skidegate Hl Headquarters Office K'aayhlina residents, just as they did when the Tlell K'iiwaay St'aajuu K'yuu YELLOWHEAD andll K'aadllgas K'yuu Sdaala K'iiwaay HIGHWAY 16 Fall Fair GuuhlGa Siiwaay K'yuu 16 site was a bustling Haida village, sev- N G Guulaay K'iiwaay Grounds Spirit Lake trail eral thousand years old. Several daa.a HIGHWAY 16 SGiidagids K'iiwaay Xuuya K'yuu house foundations are only around 150 Gaa K'iiwaay Stlaay K'yuu uud K'yuu G K'ang K'ihl K'yuu years old; a testament to the area’s litl'xid K'iiwaay TLL.AAL Guudang.aay 'Laa Hl Front St natural wealth. These houses were GANDLAAY HlGaagilda K'iiwaay Tlell River YELLOWHEAD classic monumental cedar structures. 16 SHIP Building
In summer, Haida gathered in the area T'am Gandlaay K'yuu Skidegate Small Hall before departing for the mainland in Taana Naay K'yuu canoe armadas. Richardson Today gorgeous shorelines, old-growth Ranch Vet KANDALIIGWII Richardson Rd Clinic & Hecate Strait forests, rich rivers and beautiful Feed store birds draw beachcombers, hikers, fishers and birders alike. More serious hikers can access East Beach Trail on Tll.aal Gandlaay’s north shore. You can N 'Laana Xaajuuwaay K'yuu waas K'yuu also settle for the day hike through Wiggins Rd To Daajing Giids G Queen Charlotte K'aa old growth to the shipwreck along ud G HIGHWAY 16 Pesuta Trail. The Anvil Trail will take SGAAY.YAS Haida Heritage Centre, Jewell Island you through flourishing rainforest along Gwaii Haanas Offices, Haida Gwaii Museum Tll.aal Gandlaay’s southern banks. Anvil trail Hungry hikers can enjoy fine dining isitors arriving at GuhlGa Llnagaay HlGaa K’aayhllnga Balance Rock living community members respectfully. at a restaurant and bar along Tll.aal VSkidegate Landing can drive four represents one of these boulders, Explorers can relax at two restaurants or Gandlaay. Sleepy ones can rest at a Tlell Fire Hall minutes north to get to HlGaagilda delicately set in place by a powerful make reservations for a private dinner. You lodge resort, choose from several bed Skidegate. The village’s primary Haida glacier. Visitors are welcome to explore will also find a grocery store, gas station, and breakfasts or settle in at the Misty name means “Place of Stone”. The mod- the inlet’s beautiful swimming beaches, coffee house and gift shop. ern village stretches across four sep- but please show respect to this SGaana Meadows provincial campground. The KAY LLNAGAAY next morning the local coffee house will arate village sites including K’uust’an Supernatural Being. To explore the woods Brandt Rd To HlGaagilda get you started off right. To remember Skidegate Xaana to the north, HlGaagilda towards you can hike GuuhlGa Siiwaay K’yuu Spirit From HlGaagilda you can drive two minutes your adventures, a few artisanal stores its centre, and ‘Laana Xaajuuwaay and Lake Trail, right behind HlGaagilda. A south to Kay Llnagaay. Haida have lived at and studios will connect you with HlGaaxid at its south. Haida history carved cedar panel and longhouse shelter Kay for millennia. Today it is home to the talented local artists. here reaches back to the late glacial mark the trailhead, which will lead you on Xaaydas Giinaa.ah Naay Haida Heritage maximum, when ice sculpted the hills a two-hour walk through a diversity of Centre and Saahlinda Naay Haida Gwaii and eskers now hidden beneath thick forest habitats. Hikers will likely see some Museum, which safeguard a world-class col- rainforests. You can see the clearest of Haida Gwaii’s mammalian, amphibian, lection of Haida objects.
Photo: Guy Kimola signs of these vanishing beings along avian and myxogastrian inhabitants. Another minute drive along the highway will bring you to the BC Ferries terminal at Guhl- the coasts where they left trails of Just as in Gaw, Haida have filled Ga Llnagaay Skidegate Landing, from which boulders, called moraine deposits, be- HlGaagilda with carved cedar hind. visitors can reach K’il monuments, which you will see Llnagaay Sandspit and Near Wiggins Road. throughout town. Please admire these Kxeen Prince Rupert.
56 For more information: gohaidagwaii.ca For more information: gohaidagwaii.ca 57 Haida gwaii Trip Planner
To HlGaagilda DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE Skidegate K’IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPIT
3rd Ave
Haida Gwaii OCEANVIEW DR Hospital Sandspit Airport 1st St Loop Sandspit Airport Queen 2nd Ave Charlotte N Wharf Way Visitor Causeway Centre
Radio Rd 2nd Ave Main Wharf XAANA KAAHLII GAWGAAY 2nd St Skidegate Inlet Tacan Rd
3rd St 3rd Ave 2nd Ave 4th St Bay St
BEACH RD
NansGa Gandlaay K'yuu 5th St Blaine Gore Brook Trail Shaw 6th St Rd OCEANVIEW DR Beban Rd Agnes L Mathers Christina Pl 2nd Ave XAANA KAAHLII GAWGAAY Elementary School School Rd
Dover Rd Mountain GidGalang Skidegate Inlet Ash Rd Kuuyas Park Rd 8th St Naay Spruce Rd 7th St Gwaay Sgaaguuds 9th St Gooden Island Spur Rd COPPER BAY MAINLINE 10th St 2nd Ave
3rd Ave Giiyang Gwaay Village Office Robertson Island
To Haydn Turner BEACH RD Campground, N Rennell Sound To Gaats’iiGundaay Alliford Bay Ferry Sandspit Harbour To Diinal GawGa ALLIFORD BAY RD Gray Bay
nother ten minutes south will bring will find a visitor’s centre, grocery store, Campsites are available at the western end he sunny village of K’il Llnagaay is A drive south along gravel logging roads Ayou to Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte. restaurants, accommodations, camping, of town at Hayden Turner CampGround Tone of the many dozens of village will bring you to ‘Laana GaayGaagings The modern village spreads across three laundry, public library, post office, corner and Kagan Bay Recreational Site. At the sites that flourished along the inlet’s Copper River Village, where Haida still Haida village sites, with Daajing Giids store, repair shop, gas station and credit end of the gravel road, called Honna Road, southern shore. Gorgeous beaches, maintain a fishing village. Further south towards its eastern downtown centre, union. you can launch boats on the north shore of mountain hikes, rivers and forests you will find popular campsites at Diinal Kwahgawgid Llnagaay farther up-inlet, To the village's eastern end, hikers can Tl’lnaa Stl’lng, the eastern end of TllGaduu distinguish the surrounding country. GawGa Gray Bay. With more backroads and Xaana at its western extremity. access Regier Lake Trail via Forestry Hill. GawGa Kagan Bay. While visitors some- Just on the west end of town you will navigation you will find K’aayxada Daajing Giids is just one of dozens of The trail leads you up the slopes behind times decide to camp there, you should be find the head of Haans Creek Trail, TlldaGawaay Mount Moresby and village sites that proliferated in the rich Daajing Giids to Regier Lake. A little far- aware that residents often use the area for where you can explore a little of this neighbouring HlGuu K’aw.was TlldaGaaw and protected waters of Xaana Kaahlii ther west NansGa Gandlaay K'yuu Gore late night fires and to sight rifles in. beauty. Mosquito Mountain, both of which have GawGaay Skidegate Inlet. Brook Trail covers easier ground, looping BACKROADS AND QUEEN popular trails. The difficult climb is well CHARLOTTE MAINLINE In town you will find a boat launch, worth the rewards at their peaks, where You can explore the many islands, coves, behind the village. You will find a trail- restaurants, a grocery store, airport, Towards the western end of Daajing Gi- you can admire stunning views of Haida rivers and narrows by hiring charters based head at the top of 8th Street. The trail hostel, B&B's and the post office. A ids you can turn north to drive the Queen Gwaii’s eastern and western coasts. out of the harbour at Kyahjuu GawGa exits behind "the Fishbowl", a cul-de-sac number of fishing and adventure tour- Charlotte Mainline, which leads to Yaagun Queen Charlotte Harbour or the boat a little farther west. You can also walk ism outfits will get you ready for your
Yakoun Lake and Chaahluu Kaahlii Rennell Photo: Flavien Mabit launch at Chaana GangGaaw Gandlaay through old-growth forests at Kaahlgwa next adventure in Gwaii Haanas. These Sound. QC Main will lead you into a net- Muncord Creek. You can get on the water Gandlaay K'yuu Crabapple Creek Trail. outfits can drive you along the network work of logging roads that are variously in kayaks or powerboats. Float planes fly While exploring forests behind Daajing of logging roads to Gawu Kuns Mores- maintained. These are working logging also out of Kyahjuu GawGa should you Giids, be certain to watch for trail mark- by Camp, an important Haida historical roads. Visitors should bring a trusty map, a prefer to skip the waves and get to your ers carefully. A whole network of "back- site that is many thousands of years properly tuned VHF radio and some good destination by air. yard trails" can lead the unfamiliar astray. old. Many adventures into Gwaii Haanas sense. Bird watching. In Daajing Giids you start at the boat launch there.
58 For more information: gohaidagwaii.ca For more information: gohaidagwaii.ca 59 Haida gwaii Trip Planner
GWAAY HAANAS GIINAA.GA XUUYA RAVEN TS’AAHL GYAAGANG.NGAAY DANG Date raised: June 12, 2015 Date raised: June 4-9, 2001 GYAAGANG.NGAAY GYAAXA GWAII HAANAS LEGACY POLE Location: Daajing Giids Queen Location: Kay Llnagaay Charlotte at Kwahgawgid, Lead carver: Stlin’ll Garner Moody Raised at: Hlk’yah GawGa Windy Gidgalang Kuuyas Naay Secondary Bay School Figures (bottom to top): Ts’ing, K'aa MONUMENTAL POLES Gwaay, Taan, Xuuya, Ts'aag Date raised: August 15, 2013 Lead carvers: Jesse Jones, Jimmy Lead carver: Jaalen Edenshaw Jones, Jason Goetzinger OF HAIDA GWAII Assistant carvers: Gwaai Edenshaw, John Brent Bennett and StllnGa Tyler York fter the trees arrived in Haida Gwaii, Figures (bottom to top): K'aal, ASGaanuwee Supernatural Beings showed Xuuajii, Five Good People Standing Together, Nang Kilsdlaas, Kuuya Kuuniisii Haida ancestors how to carve GyaaGandal, 'WaasGo, Xaa, K'awkaa, gyaa'aang monumental poles. The Haida word for Gina Ga Kyahts'as HlGunuhl, and Ts'aag monumental pole is related to the word gyaa'aa stand up. After Haida carve, dance, and raise them, gyaaGang or gyaa'aang become living TANG.GWAN OPEN OCEAN TS'AAG EAGLE HLKINUL community members. Date raised: 2014 Date raised: June 12, 2015 Date raised: June 4-9, 2001 Gyaa'aang bring communities together and span Raised at: K’il Llnagaay Sandspit Location: Daajing Giids Queen Location: Kay Llnagaay Lead carvers: Jesse Jones, Jimmy Charlotte at Kwahgawgid, Gidgalang Lead carver: Gidansda Guujaaw Kuuyas Naay Secondary School generations. They remind people of a household's Jones, Jason Goetzinger Figures (bottom to top): ChaaGan powerful lineage, celebrate the wealth and provision Lead carvers: Jesse Jones, Jimmy Xuuajii, Hiilanga transforming into Jones, Jason Goetzinger human, St’aw, Ts'aag, Gina Ga Ga of a generation, or honour the memory of an es- Kyahts’as with SGaana teemed community member. They can be said to be divided into three general categories: gwaaygiiGang crest poles, 'waahlGahl gyaaGang or ‘waahl’ahl gyaa’aang potlatch poles, and saahlin gyaaGang or saahlang Xaad mortuary poles. While such events are rare, Haida and their coastal neighbours also raise gyaa'aang to ridicule a person for behaving shamefully.
Haida carvers bring countless other creations into XAANA KAAHLII NGAAYSDLL HLGAAGILDA K’UUNA NAAY GYAAGANGAAY existence, including interior house columns, smaller Date raised: June 4-9, 2001 Date raised: June 4-9, 2001 Raised at: Daajing Giids Queen Location: Kay Llnagaay Location: Kay Llnagaay decorative pieces, model houses and poles. Haida Charlotte, at Xaaynangaa Naay Lead carver: Gaahyaa Norman Price Lead carver: 7idansuu Jim Hart Haida Gwaii Hospital carve gyaa'aang primarily with ts'uu Western red ce- Figures (bottom to top): Xuuajii, Figures (bottom to top): Xuuajii, ts'il Date raised: June 23, 2018 dar, but sometimes use other materials such as argil- XaaydaGaay Sding, Ts'aag, Kaagan, sding SGaana, Maat, Xuuya, Kung Lead carver: Laada Tim Boyko Xuuya, Gina Ga Ga Kyahts’as with Taawla and Kwiiawah, Gina Ga lite. They also cast figures and poles in other material Assistant carvers: Kwakyans Tony Ga Kyahts’as such as bronze, resin, silver and gold. Haida carvers Greene, Kuuhlanuu Billy Yovanovich, StllnGa Tyler York most often bring their creations into our world for Figures (bottom to top): Taan and specific purposes, to honour kuuniisii, someone's lin- Western Doctor, SnaanGa, Nang Kilsdlaas, Weeping Infant, Laada’s eage, or sGaanuwee. Self-portrait, SGaaga, Ts’aag, tllga Kyahts’ii XaaydaGaay You will find gyaaGang throughout Haida Gwaii. We encourage you to admire our living community mem- bers from a respectful distance.
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T’AANUU WEEPING WOMAN OF GIDANSDA PERCY WILLIAMS WIIGAANAD SID CROSBY Date raised: June 4-9, 2001 T’AANUU MEMORIAL NAA ‘UUWANS Location: Kay Llnagaay Location: HlGaagilda Skidegate Date raised: Summer 2017 Date raised: May 1, 2011 Lead carver: Gitkinjuuwas Ronald Lead carver: Gaahyah Norman Price Sr Location: HlGaagilda Skidegate at Location: K’uust’an Xaana Wilson 'Laana Gaahllnaas the Ball Field Lead carver: Laada Tim Boyko and Assistant carver: Vicky Moody Lead carver: Gidansda Guujaaw Jason Goetzinger Figures (bottom to top): SGaana, Figures (bottom to top): Xuuajii Xuuya, Guujii, K’aaxada, Ts'aag holding SGaana, Xuuya, K’aaxada, Ts’aag, Daajing sgilgaay
SGANG GWAAY CHIEFTAINSHIP POLE TO GUD AD KIIGAWAAY XAAD XILAA GYAAHLAANG Date raised: June 4-9, 2001 HONOUR MATRIARCH GYAAGANG.NGAAY GYAA’AANG KII'ILJUUS BARB WILSON BORN TOGETHER CLAN POLE MEDICINE STORY POLE Location: Kay Llnagaay Lead carver: Laada Tim Bokyo Location: HlGaagilda Skidegate Date raised: July 31, 2016 Date raised: May 18, 2009 Assistant carvers: Ga'uu Derek Lead carver: Gitkinjuuwas Ronald Location: HlGaagilda Skidegate in Location: Masset in front K’aa’diya White, Eric Wilson Wilson front of Dave’s Take-out Northern Haida Gwaii Hospital Figures (bottom to top): Taan, Ts’ing, Lead carver: St’inll Garner Moody Lead carver: Kihlguulans Christian K’yaaluu, Ts'aag Assistant carvers: Kwakyans Tony White Greene, Laada Tim Boyko, StllnGa Assistants: Ga'uu Derek White and Tyler York T'aaw Iihaanaas Vernon White Apprentices: Jerome McDonald, Yaahl iiwaans Bryce Williams, Neil Goertzen, Yaahl SGwaansang Eugene Davidson, Stlaana Jaadaas Daisy White Finishing assistant: Tak'iitaayaa Corey Bulpitt
GIDANSDA JIMMY WILSON STRONGMAN EAGLE AND BEAR MOTHER YAAHL RAVEN ENTRANCE MONUMENT MEMORIAL Location: HlGaagilda Skidegate at Date raised: 1993 Location: HlGaagilda Skidegate Sk’aadgaa Naay Elementary School Location: HlGaagilda Skidegate at Date raised: June 21, 2010 Lead carver: Bert Wilson and Joe Lead carver: Laada Tim Boyko the entrance to GuuhlGa Siiwaay Location: Masset at K’aa’diya Mander K'yuu Spirit Lake trail Northern Haida Gwaii Hospital Assistant carver: Gordy Mills Lead carver: Dick Bellis Lead carver: Cooper Wilson
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GUUD EAGLE ENTRANCE GUUD AD YAAHL MONUMENTS SKILAY MEMORIAL HEALTH CENTRE MONUMENT MONUMENT Date raised: June 21, 2010 Date raised: 2003 Date raised: June 21, 2010 Date raised: June 21, 2010 Location: Tlaga Gawtlaas New Town Location: Ts’ágwaals in Gaw Tlagee Location: Ts’ágwaals in Gaw Tlagee Location: Masset at K’aa’diya Lead carvers: Giits'anaagaas Todd Old Massett at the Gwaii Trust Old Massett at the Old Massett Northern Haida Gwaii Hospital White and Ga'uu Derek White Building Village Council Administration Lead carver: Nang K'iida Leegas Lead carver: 7idansuu Jim Hart Building Jordon Seward Lead carver: Laada Tim Boyko
7IDANSUU MORRIS WHITE WIIAA CHIEF MATTHEWS RAVEN HOUSE AMANDA EDGARS MEMORIAL POTLATCH MONUMENT Date raised: 2003 Date raised: 2010 Date raised: 1992 Date raised: 1995 Location: Ts’ágwaals in Gaw Tlagee Location: Ts’ágwaals in Gaw Tlagee Location: Ts’ágwaals in Gaw Tlagee Location: Gaw Tlagee Old Massett Old Massett Old Massett at the Old Massett Old Massett in front Tluu Xaada Naay Lead carver: skil qaat’la.aas Reg Village Council Administration Lead carver: Paul White Lead carvers: 7idansuu Jim Hart and Davidson Building Kihlguulans Christian White Lead carver: k'aajuu Xial Donnie Assistant carvers: Ga'uu Derek Edenshaw White, Laada Tim Boyko, Giits'anaagaas Todd White
KIHLGUULANS GEOFFREY FAMILY CENTRE POLE K’YAALUU EAGLE HOUSE ST. JOHN’S CHURCH WHITE MEMORIAL Date raised: June 21, 2010 Date raised: 2010 Date raised: 1969 Date raised: 2006 Location: Ts’ágwaals in Gaw Tlagee Location: Ts’ágwaals in Gaw Tlagee Location: Gad Gaywáas at St John’s Location: Gaw Tlagee Old Massett Old Massett Old Massett at the Old Massett Anglican Church in Gaw Tlagee Old in front Tluu Xaada Naay Lead carver: T'aaw Iihaanaas Vernon Village Council Administration Massett Building Lead carver: Kihlguulans Christian White Lead carver: Guud San Glans Robert White Lead carver: Jaalen Edenshaw Davidson Assistants: Ga'uu Derek White, T'aaw Iihaanaas Vernon White, Ta k'iit aayaa Corey Bulpitt, Neil Goertzen, Yaahl sGwaansang Eugene Davidson Figures: The monument features a shark at the bottom. The t'aaw copper shields represent Geoffery White's siblings. A white raven sits atop the monument.
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K’AADSNEE SHARK HOUSE YAN EAGLE YAAN POLE Date raised: 1986 Date raised: 1973 Date raised: 1991 Location: Gad Gaywáas in Gaw Location: Gad Gaywáas by the ball Location: Yaan Yan Tlagee Old Massett field in Gaw Tlagee Old Massett Lead carver: 7idansuu Jim Hart Lead carver: skil qaat’la.aas Reg Lead carver: HlGawangdlii Skilaa Davidson Lawrence Bell
STAASTAS 7IDANSUU MORRIS TAAW HL’YAALAN SOLSTICE POLE WHITE MEMORIAL Date raised: 2016 Date raised: June 21, 2017 Date raised: 1999 Location: Taaw Tow Hill Location: Hl’yáalan 'Llngee Hiellen Location: Gad Gaywáas in Gaw Lead carver: Ga'uu Derek White village Tlagee Old Massett Assistants: Stlaana Jaadaas Daisy Lead carver: Kihlguulans Christian Lead carvers: 7idansuu Jim Hart White, and Diana White White and eagle by Kihlguulans Christian Figure: a portrait of Taaw Assistant carvers: T'aaw Iihaanaas White Vernon White, Ga'uu Derek White, Shayanna Brown, Hak’wanan Jay Bellis, Janeka Bell, Stlaana Jaadaas Daisy White, Shane Bell, Skilaaw Captain Stewart-Burton, Jaadaa Haanaas Tiffany Boyko, ShayIana Brown, Liihang Langaa Paul Byron Finishing assistants: Gunii Roger Smith, Ta k'iit aayaa Corey Bullpit Figures (bottom to top): kilslaay holding t’aaw in the arms of his wife, Xuuts, two Xuuts gidalang in ears, Ts’ing, Xuaajii GidGalang, Sgyamsun blue mountain hawk, Sparrow YAN RAVEN HAAPII Hawk, hlk’yan K’uust’an, Xuuajii Date raised: 1973 Date raised: 2016 transforming, K’uuxan in its mouth, two more hlk’yan K’uust’an, man Location: Gad Gaywáas by the ball Location: Taaw Tow Hill wearing Guud K’al, Nang kilslaas, field in Gaw Tlagee Old Massett Lead carver: Ga'uu Derek White iihll.ngas kyahjuu llGaayGa, nang Lead carver: HlGawangdlii Skilaa Assistants: Stlaana Jaadaas Daisy jaada kyahjuu llGaayGa Lawrence Bell White, and Diana White Story: Haapii is the hero who killed a beast living atop Taaw. The creature’s helpers, a kun whale and Guud eagle, left their marks at Taaw in the form of the blowhole and the scratches on the rocks in front of Taaw sdaal Tow Hill.
66 67 on Haida Gwaii is permanently protect- After going by the many fishing cabins, families — campers need to treat the ed for cultural, spiritual, ecological, and the road passes around a river bend nearby stream water or bring their own, recreational uses. and you see the first full view of the but each site has a fire pit, privy, and Copper River threading through the hewn-log picnic table. Today, Haida collect food, medicinal forest to drain Skidegate Lake and the plants, cedar bark and other cultural surrounding 180 km2 watershed. Just before the bridge is a left turn to materials from Kunxalas and the other the Secret Cove trailhead. An easy hike areas as they have done for well over The Copper Mainline hugs the river and of about 1 km, Secret Cove is a fine 14,000 years. passes by a tidal lagoon before com- walk for families and passes several ing to the turnoff for Gray Bay Road. A tall Sitka spruce on the way to a pebble There are at least five historic villag- short drive later, campers who want an beach. In December 2018, a fierce es or seasonal camps in Kunxalas, even quieter spot than Diinal GawGa windstorm whipped over Kunxalas including Lanaaya Llnagaay, Kunts'ii can turn left towards Kunts'ii Sheldens Cumshewa Head with gusts of up to Llnagaay, Hlkinul Llnagaay, KuuGahl, and Bay recreation site, which has three 166 km/h — it’s the most likely culprit Kunxalas Llnagaay. campsites. for a pair of large windblown trees that recently fell across the trail but are Along the protected shoreline are After crossing a creek bridge, the road seabird colonies, sea lion haul-outs, easy enough to walk around or clamber finally reaches Diinal GawGa the Gray over. extensive kelp beds, and habitat for Bay campground. Spread out just be- shellfish such as abalone, geoduck, hind the dunes are 20 large beachfront For a longer hike that is about a 10 km and razor clams. The 2,350 hectares of campsites perfect for group trips or round trip, walk to the end of Gray Bay old-growth forest in Kunxalas may also be home to a few of the endangered Haida Gwaii subspecies of Northern goshawk. Below: Trail markers installed in 2018. And among the mostly hemlock and Photo: Andrew Hudson cedar forest in Kunxalas runs K'aasda GawGa the Copper River and other fish-bearing streams that host Coho salmon, Dolly Varden, sculpin, Rainbow trout and Cutthroat trout.
Starting on School Road in K'il Llnagaay DiiNal GawGa Sandspit and heading south, the route to Diinal GawGa goes by the Sandspit A long slow sandy curve Airport and Willows Golf Course before passing through the shoreline neighbour- By Andrew Hudson hood of Hardingville and onto an unpaved ray Bay is about as grey as the lush green of Greenland. Wind-sheltered and shallow, the wide, east-facing bay is logging road, the Copper Bay Mainline. Gactually one of the islands’ favourite summer spots. Especially on a calm day with a rising tide, the water warms From here, it is a bumpy but scenic 21 km nicely as it rolls over the fine sand of Gray Bay’s 5km crescent beach. drive south. After following the Copper Bay Mainline for 14 km, there is a single, Maybe the people who chose “Gray” for Sheldens Lagoon, Kunxalas Cumshewa er protected area, Damaxyaa, which in- well-signed left turn onto Gray Bay Road the English name had a hidden motive Head, and K'aasda GawGa the Copper cludes the Dover Trail and K'il, a historic for the final stretch to the campground. besides another honour for Captain River estuary all became part of the Haida seasonal camp by the mouth of Robert Gray, the sharp-dealing Boston Kunxalas protected area that covers Daamaxyah Gandlaay, or Haans Creek. The first sights along the drive are fur trader who sailed up east coast the northeast coast of Moresby Island. towering rock and the opening of K'aasda While they are not so well known, the Haida Gwaii in the summer of 1789. GawGa Copper Bay, where Haida families Off-limits to logging and other ex- 11 protected areas on Haida Gwaii gather every year to harvest returning Haida know the bay as Diinal GawGa, tractive uses, Kunxalas is one of 11 are actually larger than world-famous coho and sockeye. In 1862, settlers and the larger peninsula to the south mainly coastal areas around Haida Gwaii Haanas excited by the prospects of copper ore as Kunxalas, or pierced nose. Gwaii that is protected by the Haida dug a 190-foot mine shaft in the area, but Nation as a heritage site, and by the When mapped along with Haida Gwaii’s it was soon abandoned and filled in by Kunxalas took on new meaning in 2008 government of BC as a conservancy. provincial parks and ecological re- 1909 for safety. when the area and nearby Kunts'ii Just west of Sandspit is another, small- serves, it’s clear that over half the land
68 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 69 Road until it becomes overgrown and cedar canoe carved by Iljuuwas Bill leads to the former site of a LORAN Reid, for Expo ’86. After paddling 600 marine radio station that operated nautical miles north from T'agwan Van- from 1971 to 1979. couver, it was on the open sands of Diinal GawGa Gray Bay the paddlers From here there is a short trail to chose to rest and make their first steps Iitl'lgas Kun Gray Point, at the south back home. end of the bay. At low tide, you can also reach Iitl'lgas Kun by walking along the shoreline, where fallen trees can help you cross a few streams. While the shallow waters of the bay Stads and surrounding waters can be tricky for ships, in 1987 it proved a perfect Below: Secluded beaches offer shelter from landing spot for those paddling the the wind. k’UN Lootaas Wave Eater — the 15-metre Photo: Andrew Hudson A really sharp turn
By Graham Richard/Council of the Haida Nation
They fly at speed in mature and old- shedding new light on the birds, show- genomic study that found Haida Gwaii growth forest — swift, silent and grey. ing just how unique and endangered stads k’un are genetically distinct — they With yellow talons and piercing orange they really are. appear to have evolved separately since eyes, they hunt small birds and mam- the last ice age ended 20,000 years ago, mals by diving down from the treetops. Best estimates suggest there may only raising sea levels and flooding all ofK an- Sometimes they stalk prey by walking be 50 goshawks left on Haida Gwaii. daliiGwii Hecate Strait. the forest floor. Logging the islands’ old-growth forests dramatically reduced their habitat, and More work needs to be done to defini- Stads k’un or Haida Gwaii goshawks, the deer introduced to Haida Gwaii over tively identify the Haida Gwaii stads k’un have always been tricky to see. a century ago have spread and munched as a subspecies, but in the meantime, the away much of the forest understory that UBC study will inform a new conserva- Darker than their continental cousins, provided habitat for their prey. tion plan that aims to protect the birds the raven-sized raptors are extremely from extinction. Already, a Haida Gwaii nimble fliers that prefer to stay in the In 1940, ornithologist Percy Algernon land-use order – the rules and regula- forest. Taverner identified the islands’ stads tions governing logging on the islands – k’un as part of a darker, slightly smaller protects 200 hectares of forest around Used as falconry birds across Eurasia subspecies, Accipiter gentilis laingi, that for thousands of years, stads k'un can any known nest sites, and the old-growth differs from most other northern stads and mature forests in Gwaii Haanas and turn in a flash and wheel quick around k'un in North America. branches, thanks to their short wide the other protected areas that cover wings and long, rudder-like tail. Based on what he could observe at about half the Haida Gwaii are providing the time, Taverner thought the subspe- more habitat. On Haida Gwaii, stads k’un prefer to cies ranged throughout the BC coast But with so few left on the islands, their hunt a huge area of forest — at 70 to and Vancouver Island. But with so few 2 precarious existence is one of concern 110 km , the typical foraging area is samples and physical features hard to bigger than Manhattan. and focused attention. Teams of peo- distinguish, there has long been debate ple are out on the land watching for the Two years ago, Haida citizens at the about the extent of the laingi range. birds and in offices developing plans to Nation’s House of Assembly voted to Late last year, researchers at Univer- ensure populations not only remain sta- recognize stads k’un as Haida Gwaii’s sity of British Columbia’s Biodiversity ble but begin to rebound in the very near national bird. A recent genomic study is Research Centre published a two-part future.
70 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 71 We are jUst at tHe Beginning Micro plastics in the most remote regions
By Andrew Hudson
earing well-earned smiles and glistening rain jackets, a group of 40 youth mostly from land-based sources. Two- Wfrom across Canada posed for a trophy shot on Hl’yaalang waagusd North thirds washes in with road runoff, and Beach last May. Their catch? Three pickup trucks stacked high with bags full a quarter comes from wastewater, of sandy plastic bottles, nylon fishing nets, buoys, chunks of Styrofoam, and a including the hundreds of thousands of single flip-flop shoe. plastic microfibres released with a typ- ical laundry load. Touring Haida Gwaii with the Ocean international attention — among the If current trends continue, says a recent Bridge conservation program, the youth things that washed from Japan onto report by the Ellen MacArthur Founda- stopped to join an annual spring clean-up Haida Gwaii a year later was a crated tion, by 2050 all the plastic in the ocean where local volunteers fan out from the Harley Davidson motorcycle, rusted but could well outweigh the fish. Hl'yáalan Gandlee Hiellen River towards intact. Stories about the tsunami debris Nee Kun Rose Spit and rid the dunes of finally trickled to a stop. But plastics washed-up debris. keep washing into the ocean and onto Photo opposite: Marine debris pile up at Hibben Island. Haida Gwaii. In the wake of the deadly 2011 Tōhoku Below: A stalwart crew of volunteers with a load earthquake and tsunami that hit north- An estimated eight million tonnes of picked up from Ellen Island. east Japan, such marine debris captured plastic gets into the ocean each year, Photos: Highlander Marine
72 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 73 Along with organizing clean-ups — “It’s a negative-waste product,” said Even in 2014, the first year of the including difficult expeditions by boat Schulbeck, perhaps the first made on clean-up, he said only a fifth of the to gather debris from Gwaii Haanas Haida Gwaii. debris was definitively from Japan. Even and Haida Gwaii’s remote west coast — The salt could be flavoured and sold less could be traced to the tsunami itself. islanders are looking at ways to stop the through the high school greenhouse pro- flow. Instead, after returning year after year gram — an existing social enterprise that to the same west-coast bays and inlets One of the latest has a name worthy of helped pay for Cloe the Pyrolyzer. — places even Highlander crews would an ear-splitting heavy metal band: Cloe “We’ll see how far we go with it,” said rarely see otherwise — Robertson said the Pyrolyzer. Schulbeck, adding that the whole project it dawned on everyone what a huge “Cloe” is actually a new plastics-to-fuel also gives Grade 10 science students amount of plastic washes onto Haida machine being piloted by students at Gudangaay Tlaats’gaa Naay Secondary in Masset. Photo opposite: Lucky boot at Juu GawGa Boomchain Bay. Basically, Cloe can melt, vaporize, burn, Below: Plastic bottles, plastic rope and more .typically wash up daily on the beach of Haida Gwaii. and cool certain kinds of plastic into a Photos: Highlander Marine diesel-like fuel — her nickname comes from ClH20, the fuel’s chemical formula. “The machine up-cycles the plastic back into the fuel that it was made from,” says biology teacher Daniel Schulbeck, speaking in the school science class. The machine handles Type 2, 4, and 5 plastics — a group that doesn’t include single-use water bottles, but does include yogurt containers, milk jugs, and bottles for shampoo. A group that tried a similar machine in Whitehorse had a better result with washed-up marine plastics than with plastics from the local recycling plant, a chance to see the organic chemistry Gwaii every year. Some comes from com- likely because of human sorting errors at they’re learning in action. mercial fishing, but mainly it’s a random the plant. “Our fuel is not only free, it’s already paid sweep of world garbage. “Really, the ocean self-sorts,” Schulbeck for itself twice,” he said. “If we had an oil spill on our coast, the said, noting how Type 2, 4, and 5 plastics “One, we’ve reduced plastic. Two, we’ve world would be watching. We would tend to float high in the water. learned about it in the classroom.” be right there and have every resource thrown at it,” Robertson said, noting that Students will start by up-cycling batches Danny Robertson is another student of plastic is oil-based. “We do have an oil of similar plastics from the school, marine plastics, but for five years after the spill happening — it’s just happening in including thousands of obsolete VHS cas- Tōhoku tsunami in Japan, his classroom slow motion.” settes (minus the tapes and hardware, the was the true edge of the world — Haida cassettes are all Type 5). Gwaii’s remote and rugged west coast. While it was often heartbreaking, Rob- ertson said the tsunami clean-up began One kilogram of plastic makes about a A boat captain and co-owner of High- with an “outstanding act of kindness and litre of fuel, and there are at least 2,000 lander Marine, Robertson was one of generosity” from Japan. Even it reeled VHS tapes in the district office alone, several islanders hired to clean tsunami from a deadly disaster, the country Schulbeck said. debris off the Haida Gwaii coastline. donated $1 million toward cleaning the “There is 400 litres of diesel sitting in that The Tōhoku event swept an estimated West Coast. room.” 20 million tonnes into the Pacific. But the “The Japanese gave us a gift,” Robertson Next, the students will have to decide expected echo “wave” of debris never said — not only money, but the first what to do with the fuel. One idea is to really came. chance to do a multi-year survey showing boil Haida Gwaii seawater to make sea “By the third year, we stopped calling it just how much plastic debris washes up, salt. ‘tsunami debris,’” Robertson says. and where.
74 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 75 Haida Gwaii is a natural catchment zone. ities, and non-profits such as the Living Robertson remembers standing by a pair Any debris that doesn’t get captured Oceans Society. They recently spoke with of Japanese scientists who flew to Haida by the “strainer” of the west coast bays a Vancouver MP keen to start an ongoing Gwaii to open the one they recovered, and inlets can sweep around to the east federal response. and the look on their faces when they WHy we LOvE coast, carried by the strong currents Robertson noted that the Haida have saw the equipment inside was still running. moving north and south of Haida Gwaii found marine debris for thousands of “As it turns out, that sensor happened to and into Hecate Strait. years, much of it valuable. Storm-blown be the one deployed on the southeast hAiDa GWAii Robertson said a rough rule of thumb is Japanese fishing boats occasionally corner of the epicenter,” Robertson said. that areas with lots of driftwood draw washed up with metals aboard. Even “It carried incredible data — priceless.” lots of plastics — a complex combina- today, local millers talk about sea-borne tion of ocean currents, prevailing winds mahogany as “East Beach cedar.” and refracting waves tends to create And even among all the trash, in 2014, “hotspots” along the coast. Robertson and his crew did find one real But there are surprises, such as at Gudal treasure from Tōhoku — a 250-pound Bay, a long deep bay on the west coast steel float belonging to the University of where crews expected lots of debris and Tokyo. The steel alone cost $300,000, found next to none. A similar bay nearby but inside was a seismometer with some- had boatloads. thing far more valuable. Funding for the tsunami clean-up ended Several of Japan’s ocean-floor seismome- Below: The Highlander Ranger carts another load in 2018, but it sparked a coast-wide net- ters broke loose in the 2011 earthquake. home for proper disposal. Naa Kaa Klaagangs work of interested, front-line people that Most were recovered, but two were lost. Photo: Highlander Marine Brianna Julian includes First Nations, B.C. municipal- Ernie Gladstone HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE The nature, abundant food The people, family, community, land resources, and of course and the water, and the relationship the amazing people each of these has with each other. and Haida culture .
Miranda Post DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE I love how connected and engaged people here are. I'm just as likely to meet a newborn baby as I am to meet an 80 year old great grandparent at most community events.
Laura Bishop DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE I live here because Haida Gwaii is still a place where hard work and a community mindset can Jarrod fregin make an idea a reality. I also enjoy the balance HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE of having as many opportunities for sociability as I love waking up to see the ocean every day. for solitude. And if I were to live anywhere else, I wouldn't know the names of all the dogs. 76 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 77 GWAII HAANAS NATIONAL PARK RESERVE, Photo: Jags Brown NATIONAL MARINE CONSERVATION AREA RESERVE, AND HAIDA HERITAGE SITE
WELCOME TO THE ISLANDS OF BEAUTY travelers. July to mid-August is the busiest travel period, so if waii Haanas National Park Reserve, National Marine you plan to visit during this time, verify the availability of your GConservation Area Reserve, and Haida Heritage Site Gwaii Haanas dates before finalizing your travel plans. is a wild place. With no road access, stores, cell phone Are you travelling independently or on a guided trip? If you coverage and little signage, it is a true wilderness expe- would like to take a guided trip, book your trip directly with a rience. licensed tour operator. See pc.gc.ca/en/pn-np/bc/gwaiihaanas/ Gwaii Haanas is not only home to a plethora of unique sub- visit/guides/voyagistes-operators for a list of licensed tour op- GWAII species and environments, it is also home to Haida. Today the erators. If you are travelling independently (in your own boat, Council of the Haida Nation and the Government of Canada personal or rented kayak) you will need to make a reservation manage Gwaii Haanas through a cooperative agreement. They and attend an orientation. work together through the Archipelago Management Board, HAIDA WATCHMEN PROGRAM which protects Gwaii Haanas from sea floor to mountain peak. For millenia Haida posted watchmen at strategic positions HAANAS Gwaii Haanas visitors can paddle kayaks or catch the wind around villages to raise alarms in advance of approaching en- sailing through waters alongside sGaana killer whales, skul Pa- emies. The current Gina Ga Ga Kyahts'as Haida Gwaii Watch- cific white-sided dolphins and kay Steller sea lions. They may men Program began in 1981 as a volunteer initiative designed see pods of kun humpbacks breaching and flicking their tail Make your connection. to protect Haida villages and other important cultural sites in flukes as they gorge on the bounty of the Gwaii Haanas marine Gwaii Haanas. Today, Watchmen welcome visitors and act as area. Visitors can float throughK ’iid Xyangs K’iidaay Burnaby Faites votre connexion. guardians protecting the villages from spring until autumn at: Narrows, teeming with intertidal life, and see a vast array of different species at lower tides. K’uuna Llnagaay Skedans Hla gudGll sGaagid. Haida have lived among the sGaanawaay supernatural beings T’aanuu Llnagaay Tanu of Haida Gwaii at least since the end of the ice age, and have Hlk’yah GawGa Windy Bay managed Gwaii Haanas to maintain its ecological integrity for Gandll K’in Gwaay.yaay Hotspring Island at least 14,500 years. Kayak along shorelines teeming with sea stars, walk amid towering, century-old monumental poles and SGang Gwaay Ninstints/Anthony Island soak up the moss-shrouded magic of 1,884 islands and islets. In Listen as Haida Watchmen share oral histories and stories pc.gc.ca/gwaiihaanas the summer, activities range from one-day guided boat trips to which have been passed down through generations. extended boating or kayaking adventures. Haida poles at SGang Gwaay, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, PLANNING YOUR VISIT and K’uuna Llnagaay Skedans stretch into the sky telling ancient Gwaii Haanas balances recreation with protection of the natural stories. Haida poles are maps of Haida lives and lineages and and cultural features that attract people. With this in mind, the form a connection with the supernatural, displaying crests as- number of visitors entering Gwaii Haanas each day is limited. sociated with certain families and people. Available space is distributed between guided and independent HAIDA NATION 78 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII Taaw FEATURED TRAILS Tow Hill Kwatitsiisda For specific trail information see BCParks.ca or PROTECTED AREAS OF HAIDA GWAII Hl'yaalan Galguusd Blow Hole Trail gohaidagwaii.ca: Agate Beach Campground Sk'aw Gandala Taaw Tow Hill Cape Fife Trail Kwahtsiisda Blow Hole SGidlii Gandlee K'iid K'iiyaas Golden Spruce White Creek Trail Anvil Gantl' Gadaas Pesuta Pure Lake Yaagun Yakoun Lake Bonanza Beach Tlldas Gregory Beach Gámdas East Beach Trail Dover Trail CO-MANAGEMENT K'iid K'iiyaas Golden Spruce Trail Secret Cove The Haida Nation and BC Parks co-manage 18 terrestrial and marine protected areas across the Haida Sk'aw Gandalaa Cape Fife 52% Pesuta Trail Gwaii archipelago. This amounts to one-third of the islands – just over 224,000 hectares (553,516 Tlldas East Beach of Misty Meadows Campground acres). Combined with Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area Kwiid Suu Haida Gwaii Reserve and Haida Heritage Site, 52% of Haida Gwaii is protected and managed collaboratively with Mayer Lake Anvil Trail Protected CAMPSITE LOCATIONS the Haida Nation. Agate Beach and Misty Meadows Yakoun Lake Trail Tll.aal Campgrounds are subject to a nightly fee from June 1 to September 30: Gregory, Riley Yaagun & Bonanza Hl'yaalan Galguusd Agate Beach • YAHGUDAANG is the Haida concept for respect for the land, sea and all living things — please Beach Trails Misty Meadows practice this during your visit to Haida Gwaii protected areas. Use the principles of Leave No Dover Trail Diinal GawGa Gray Bay Trace camping. • Please do not remove any cultural artifacts that you may encounter along the route and Secret Cove Trail PICNIC & PADDLING AREAS Diinal GawGa Gray Bay campground report any findings to the Council of the Haida Nation and BC Parks. Make sure you understand the risks of water sport activities: • Respect sensitive plants growing in coastal sand ecosystems and do not trample or pick Diinal GawGa Gray Bay them. Yaagun Yakoun Lake • Avoid travel in the forest during high winds. Kwiid Suu Mayer Lake • On exposed beaches always be aware of the tide and never turn your back to the sea. Make Pesuta trail Gantl' Gadaas Pure Lake sure you have a current tide table and know how to interpret it. • Be Taan Bear Aware – they can be encountered throughout Haida Gwaii. Always store your EMERGENCY NUMBERS food and trash properly and away from your campsite, keep dogs under control, and pay RCMP: attention to your surroundings, especially near salmon rivers. Queen Charlotte • 250-559-4421 Masset • 250-626-3991 • Use fire rings if provided and never leave your fire unattended. Ensure it is completely extinguished before you leave. Ground Search & Rescue — contact closest RCMP • Use care and attention driving on active logging roads. BC AMBULANCE • 1-800-461-9911 • Tsunamis: rare but dangerous. If you feel the ground shake strongly for more than 30 seconds OBSERVE, RECORD, REPORT • 1-800-465-4336 or notice the tide dropping rapidly and drastically, immediately move to higher ground. Diinal GawGa Gray Bay (fish & wildlife violations, littering or pollution) Bonanza Beach RAPP - Report All Poachers & Polluters 24hr Naikoon Provincial Park hotline • 1-877-952-7277 (Conservation Officer) cell #7277 THE TRAIL MARKER There are two main shapes that MARINE EMERGENCY: make up Haida art, the ‘ovoid’ and Prince Rupert Coast Guard • 250-627-3081 ‘U’ shapes. Within many classical COUNCIL OF THE HAIDA NATION BC PARKS GWAII HAANAS NATIONAL PARK OLD MASSETT VILLAGE COUNCIL VHF 16 • cell phone #727 designs, you will find the salmon/ HAIDA HERITAGE SITES BCParks.ca RESERVE, NATIONAL MARINE PARKS DEPARTMENT trout head like this one used on the trail markers. The Rescue Centre • 1-800-567-5111 design is used to fill spaces in eyeballs, wings, body haidanation.ca Naikoon Park headquarters CONSERVATION AREA RESERVE, oldmassettvillagecouncil.com 1-250-413-8933 \ cell #727 parts, etc. There are thousands of different ways this 250-626-6058 in Tlell AND HAIDA HERITAGE SITE [email protected] FOREST FIRES: common design element ca be used. 250-557-4390 parkscanada.gc.ca/gwaiihaanas 250-626-3337 Coastal Fire Centre • 1-800-663-5555 Trail marker design: Ben Davidson 877-559-8818
80 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 81 CROW’S NEST CACILIA’S HAIDA GWAII HAIDA GWAII CAFÉ & COUNTRY BED & BREAKFAST TRADER STORE • Relaxing and inspiring ocean side • Community website and bi-monthly • Tlell’s one-stop shop accommodations Homegrown. United. Better for All. magazine • Daily lunch specials and weekend brunch • Able to accommodate groups of up to 15 • Local articles, classifieds, events and available people business information • Grocery, liquor and tobacco sales • Wir sprechen Deutsch! • Real estate listings and much more A variety of local products available Accommodation • Art • All things Haida Gwaii Dynamic. Fresh. Conscientious. • Find inspiration, relaxation, adventure or all three at Cacilia’s Bed and Homegrown. United. Better for all. What’s your Haida Gwaii story? Send us The Crow’s Nest Café & Country Store is the place to stop in Tlell for Breakfast, located on a rolling sand dune overlooking Hecate Strait. Wake up your stories, photos, poems, cartoons, etc. We look forward to hearing from everything you need from local produce, groceries and liquor to ice L ve to the islands’ most brilliant sunrises and enjoy the peaceful sounds of rolling L ve you. Call 250-557-2088 or email [email protected] L ve cream cones and milkshakes, a cup of specialty coffee or snacks. haidagwaii ocean waves as you drift off to sleep at night. haidagwaii Pick up the latest copy of the HG Trader magazine at participating retailers or haidagwaii .com Open year-round. haidagwaii.net/ceebysea/ .com check out our Ezine on the HG Trader website at haidagwaiitrader.com .com 250-557-4593 • 35770 Hwy 16 • Tlell 250-557-4664 • [email protected] • Tlell 250-557-2088 • P.O. Box 222 • Port Clements
SITKA ATLAS BAYVIEW COTTAGE OCEAN TOURS MARKET Explore the nooks and crannies of Gwaii Small-town general store feel with a large • Private self-contained hideaway in Tlell • • Haanas on a kayak mothership inventory of products • Quiet, peaceful setting along Tlell river • Travel aboard MV Atlas in comfort and style One-stop shopping in Haida Gwaii • Well-equipped kitchen and amenities • • Learn and have fun with knowledgeable and Known islands wide for stellar customer • Beautiful garden setting • experienced local residents service Sitka Studio When you make your way to this cozy cottage located along the Tlell River, you We are excited to share the magic of our home with you! We specialize in Tuesday - Saturday 10 to 5pm, Sunday 12 to 4pm • Closed Mondays will definitely know you have left the mainland haze behind you. The interior of Bayview Market is Haida Gwaii’s one-stop shopping destination. Located smaller tours (up to six guests per trip) and carry kayaks for each guest to in Port Clements, they have everything locals and visitors need, from the cottage is kept immaculately clean and provides you with all the amenities L ve explore the many inlets and islets that make up Gwaii Haanas. Come join L ve L ve you need during your stay. The cottage is large enough for a family, but cozy haidagwaii groceries to home decor to souvenirs and gift items. Visitors can even grab 250-557-4241 ~ 845 Richardson Rd, Tlell, BC us in this extraordinary corner of the world for an adventure second to none! haidagwaii a quick sandwich from the deli. haidagwaii enough for the individual or couple getaway. sitkacottage.com .com atlasoceantours.com .com .com sitkacottage.com • [email protected] 250-557-4241 or 4386 • Tlell • [email protected] 250-557-8514 • Tlell • [email protected] 250-557-4331 • 92 Bayview Dr • Port Clements Ports Clements Explore Haida Gwaii from MUSEUM Port Clements Centrally located by Masset Inlet • “the small town with big charm” June 1 to September 15 Open every day 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Including ALL Holidays. Amenities include: Gas station, lodging, groceries, pub, restaurants, After September 15 museum, tourist info, gift store, heritage sites, historic Rainbow Wharf, & before June 1: golden spruce sapling, small craft harbour, boat launch, medical clinic, Open Sat & Sun post office, sani-station, community trail, and so much more. 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. SUNSET RV PARK & CAMPGROUND On the shore of the beautiful Yakoun River Estuary. We have six RV spots and four tent spots. To reserve, please visit our website at www.portclements.ca/ sunset-park-campground/ 250.557.4576 For more information, news, photos, and more please visit our website: [email protected] portclements.ca www.portclementsmuseum.ca
82 Meet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com Accommodations Tourism/Adventure Artisan/Business Store/Restaurant Accommodations Tourism/AdventureArtisan/Business Store/Restaurant Meet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com 83 ANGELA’S PLACE BUDGIES DELKATLA SOCIAL CAFE & BACKPACKERS EBONY BOATHOUSE FUEL STATION & SIGHTSEERS BELLIS, RMT • Two bedrooms / sleeps four • Diesel • Waterfront accommodation • Budget accommodations • Marked gas • Registered Massage Therapy treatments • Full kitchen • Personal Haida Gwaii tours • Regular gas • Convenient scheduling • High speed Internet • Wild food harvesting • World famous homemade carrot cake • Nurturing environment • Laundry • Cultural adventures At the Delkatla Boathouse you have 0.3 acres of waterfront privacy within Therapeutic. Calming. Grounding. Come on in to Angela’s Place - Social Cafe & Fuel Station just off Highway 16 in Hostel style accommodations available in one of Port Clements’ oldest walking distance to central Masset. The guesthouse overlooks the Masset Ebony will take a specialized approach to have you leaving your massage Port Clements. We will fill your tank with gas, your belly with great homemade buildings. Guests can enjoy free Internet, satellite TV, games and on-site harbour and the Haida Gwaii eagles feast in trees, only 15 feet from your L ve L ve treatment feeling renewed. L ve L ve food and your day with friendly smiles. laundry facilities budgiesbackpackers.com front deck. Pet-friendly. haidagwaii haidagwaii A welcoming space and designed for your comfort. haidagwaii haidagwaii .com Kayak tours are also available kayakhaidagwaii.com .com .com Email: [email protected] .com 250-557-2003 • 211 Grouse St • Port Clements 250-557-4602 • 91 Bayview Dr • Port Clements 604-369-2537 • Masset 250-559-8909 • 1426 Delkatla Rd • Masset
SMILLIE’S FORK IN ELEPHANT CAGE MASSET GUESTHOUSES PORT COFFEE ROASTERS BIKES • Great food served quickly • Premium coffee roaster with sustainably • A bicycle is a great way to explore Masset and Haida Gwaii • Centrally located on Graham Island • Take it with you or sit at an outdoor table sourced beans Offering Kona, Raleigh and Moose bicycles • Self-contained rooms with private entrances and relax • Locally roasted, featuring medium blends, • Bike shuttle service available • Close to the store and pub • Gluten-free options available dark blends and single-origin roasts • Custom orders and swag available Cozy. Warm. Relaxing. Hot food. Delicious. Family friendly. A food concession trailer that provides hot • Masset Bikes provides professional maintenance, sales and repair services Smillie’s Guesthouses – private waterfront accommodations on spectacular foods, desserts and beverages at a reasonable price. Look for the open sign on Elephant Cage Coffee Roasters provides islanders with ethically-sourced for bikes of all shapes and sizes at competitive rates. Masset Inlet in Port Clements. All rooms have queen-sized beds (one with a L ve the highway between Port Clements and Tlell. Closed Tuesdays. L ve beans roasted locally. Featuring medium and dark roast blends and L ve Just visiting Haida Gwaii? We have a great selection of rentals to choose L ve king-sized bed), offer free wi-fi and TV, kitchenettes, barbecues and parking. haidagwaii Summer hours: April 15 to September 15, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. haidagwaii single origin roasts for all occasions. haidagwaii from too. We also offer surfboard repair. haidagwaii cell: 250-626-9670 | gosmillie.com .com Winter hours: September 16 to April 14, 12 p.m. to 8 p.m. .com .com Find us on Facebook @MassetBikes .com 250-557-4614 • 97 Bayview Dr • Port Clements 250-557-4669 • 60543 Hwy 16 • Port Clements 250-626-8971 • P.O. Box 271 • Masset 250-626-8939 • Beside Masset Airport • Masset Welcome to The Ground The Village of GALLERY & COFFEE HOUSE Even at the edge Masset of the world, you’ve got good wings, waves,
wilderness neighbours © Go Haida Gwaii/CurtisPhoto Guest Friendly people, art galleries, ESPRESSO | TEAS | BAKED GOODS | ART museums, restaurants, cafés, 24/7 ATMs grocery stores, home supplies, accommodations, visitor information Downtown Masset • 1599 Main Street From lending to investing and insurance, Northern Savings centre, and so much more! has Haida Gwaii covered Cash exchange
COME Investment advice NorthbeachLOCALLY DESIGNED Since the 1940s, Northern Savings has been the local financial co-operative VISIT of choice on Haida Gwaii. We have the ability to do things differently, to act as Apparel a partner rather than just a service provider. Strengthening our members and Lending specialists Northbeach local businesses helps to foster vibrant communities and this is the co-operative difference! Insurance services CLOTHING
Village of Masset Office p: 250-626-3995 f: 250-626-3968 Apparel ACCESSORIES Open: Mon to Fri, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. email: [email protected] Masset Queen Charlotte 1686 Main St, P.O. Box 68, 1663 Main Street 110 Causeway Street Masset, BC VOT 1M0 MASSETBC.COM lovehaidagwaii.com/The-GroundEXCLUSIVELY AT THE GROUND Downtown Masset 250.626.5231 250.559.4407 #neighbourshelpingneighbours
84 Meet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com Accommodations Tourism/Adventure Artisan/Business Store/Restaurant Accommodations Tourism/AdventureArtisan/Business Store/Restaurant Meet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com 85 HIDDEN MEGHAN A. LADYBIRD’S ISLAND RV & MASSET WALLACE BARRISTER BOUTIQUE CAMPGROUND MARKET • Vintage, retro consignment clothing, 16 large treed RV lots, some big enough accessories and housewares • • Home-baked treats & SOLICITOR for groups Diverse styles & sizes xs-3xl for all genders • Handmade jewellery • Family owned and ideally situated for • Real estate, family law Locally made jewelry, clothing, accessories, • • Locally-grown produce • exploring Haida Gwaii • Wills and estates and natural products • Handcrafted skin care Business law • Sites are walking distance to the beach • • Haida Owned and Operated Relaxing. Safe. Clean. • Notary public services Vintage. Retro. Eclectic. Located in Masset you can find Hidden Island RV & Campground, equipped Bringing food growers and artisans together to share locally produced goods. Meghan A. Wallace Barrister & Solicitor is a general practice law firm serving Step into Ladybird’s Boutique in downtown Masset and be prepared to find with serviced sites, clean washrooms with showers, free high speed Wi-Fi, L ve Every Friday 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. year-round. L ve the entire Haida Gwaii chain. Meghan A. Wallace Barrister & Solicitor offers L ve something one of a kind. If you are looking for a locally handmade item or the L ve Located next to the Village of Masset office on Main street. coin-operated laundry, handmade gifts, nautical gifts, fishing tackle and haidagwaii haidagwaii land conveyancing and family-law services as well as will preparation, estate haidagwaii perfect outfit that will make you stand out from the crowd, come on by. From haidagwaii marine supplies. .com Find us at facebook.com/Massetfarmersmarket .com services and notary public services. meghanwallacelaw.com .com that special one of a kind keepsake to costume rentals, we’ve got you covered. .com 250-626-5286 • 1790 Tow Hill Rd • Masset [email protected] • Main Street • Masset 250-626-7026 • 1599 Main Street • Masset 778-867-3464 • 2072 Collison Ave • Masset DAVE’S COPPER MILE ZERO CUSTOM BEECH DINING ROOM & HAIDA GWAII CARVINGS HOUSE DADDY COOL’S BEACHCABINS • Intricate carved silver jewelry - bracelets, • 1920s character home steeped in history • Private, off-grid, ocean-front beach cabins rings and more PUBLIC HOUSE • Locally foraged food & homemade meals • Miles of surf and sand beaches • Original paintings and art prints • Guests can have as much company or • Food & beverage • Breathtaking sunset views Available for custom and commission work • privacy as they like • Taxi service Unique, off-grid, hand-crafted oceanfront beach cabins provide Gid Kweeyas Dave Hunter tells stories and legends of his Haida ancestry through Fantastic pub food with an island-wide reputation and Haida Gwaii’s best chef. Come and stay in a heritage house on Masset’s Delkatla Inlet, owned comfortable, secluded, unplugged lodgings with a low environmental his original paintings, silver and argillite carvings. Dave is largely self-taught, Authentic Haida Gwaii fish and chips. Cold beer, wine and liquor sales. and managed by the writer, Susan Musgrave. Copper Beech House is footprint, affording you a chance to connect with the unique spirit of learning the art of carving first with wood and then moving on to other mediums. L ve L ve Pub hours: Monday to Sunday 9 a.m. to 2a.m. L ve L ve open all year round for guests to experience a rustic-elegant, curated Haida Gwaii. Let me welcome you to a memorable stay in our magical Dave is also responsible for the creation of numerous original paintings which haidagwaii haidagwaii Restaurant hours: Monday to Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., 4:30 p.m. to 8 p.m. haidagwaii haidagwaii slice of Haida Gwaii. For more information see copperbeechhouse.com little corner of Haida Gwaii. beachcabins.com have been made into art cards, post cards and limited edition prints. .com .com Need a Taxi? Call the pub or 250-626-8999. .com .com 778-887-3732 • Masset • [email protected] 1-855-626-5441 • 1590 Delkatla St • Masset 250-626-3210 • 1993 Collison Ave • Masset 250-626-9784 • 16039 Tow Hill Rd • [email protected] NORTH NORTH BEACH Chown River BEACH ISLANDWISE CABINS • Inspired by nature • Located in Naikoon Provincial Park • Simple, safe, effective • Eco-tourism in off-the-grid beach cabins Gallery SURF Local and nourishing ingredients email: [email protected] • • Arts & Crafts from the mystical islands of Haida Gwaii Handcrafted soap and body products to experience Haida Gwaii through Come to the edge of the world and relax while you revel in the sights and SHOP the senses. sounds of Haida Gwaii’s Naikoon Provincial Park. North Beach Cabins Find us in person at the Edge of the World Music Festival and weekly at L ve provides guests with an authentic eco-tourism experience in the heart of L ve SALES & RENTALS the Masset Market. Also available at island retailers throughout Haida haidagwaii Haida Gwaii’s pristine native environment. haidagwaii Surf, SUP, Gwaii, and via our online shop islandwisehaidagwaii.com .com northbeachcabins.com .com boogie, skate & skim boards islandwisehaidagwaii.com • Masset 250-626-7126 • 15965 Tow Hill Rd • North Beach Wetsuits - from kids size 1 to XXXL THE NATURE Dip nets, clam CENTRE AT shovels, chest DELKATLA Hours: waders, fishing Saturday & Sunday -11 a.m. to 5 p.m. licenses • The only nature centre in the Skeena region Clothing, artwork, • Comparable to centres in Europe Automotive Repair • Tire Repair • Wheel Balancing Summer (June-August) - Daily 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. bike rentals, • A winning destination for residents and or by appointment - call or email to arrange & local knowledge visitors Brakes • Steering • Computer Diagnostics Wild. Informative. Knowledgeable. 250-626-0005 The Delkatla Sanctuary Society, a registered charity, owns and operates Mondays to the Nature Centre. The Society is dedicated to protecting the Delkatla L ve Mon-Fri, 9a.m.- 5p.m. | Weekend appointments available [email protected] Saturdays Wildlife Sanctuary, a migratory bird sanctuary where over 140 bird haidagwaii | 9422 Tow Hill Road (Hydro pole 71) species have been recorded. .com 250-626-7875 2063 Collison Ave, Masset 12-5pm northbeachsurfshop.com 9 kms east of Masset towards Tow Hill 1630 Orr St, Masset 250.626.7873 (surf) 250-626-5015 • 1860 Trumpeter Dr • Masset [email protected]
86 Meet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com Accommodations Tourism/Adventure Artisan/Business Store/Restaurant Accommodations Tourism/AdventureArtisan/Business Store/Restaurant Meet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com 87 DIXON UPROOT GIN KUYAAS ENTRANCE GUEST HOUSE BEACHCABINHEAVEN.COM HAIDA ART MARITIME • Beautifully crafted accommodation • Located in Naikoon Park and bordering the featuring salvaged design ocean STUDIO & GIFTS MUSEUM • Warm, inspiring home with lots of natural • Surf, harvest crabs and dig clams on your • High quality authentic Haida art and doorstep souvenirs • Heritage building in Masset light Local information from a 46-year resident Great range of product prices • Learn about maritime history and • Luxurious, clean and comfortable • • Haida artists on site settlement of northern Haida Gwaii Uproot Guest House is an artisan-designed West Coast home on the edge of Experience the adventure of vacationing in a Haida Gwaii beach cabin. We are Authentic. Traditional. Inspiring. • Dixon Entrance Maritime Museum is open from May long weekend until Labour the rainforest that is available for nightly and weekly rentals. The home has perfectly situated for a taste of the best the islands have to offer – seafood at Gin Kuyaas Haida Art Studio & Gifts offers a diverse selection of authentic day weekend, 1 to 5p.m. every day. Admission is $5 for adults, kids 16 and L ve gorgeous re-purposed timber and up-cycled industrial components throughout; L ve your doorstep, and a pristine evergreen ecosystem all around – affording us a L ve Haida artwork, clothing and gift items. L ve under are free. Learn about life in early Masset and the history of crab and haidagwaii creative metal stair railings, natural tree roots and hand sculpted columns. haidagwaii chance to connect with the unique spirit of Haida Gwaii. haidagwaii We are open from Tuesday through to Saturday, 11 a.m. - 5 p.m., haidagwaii fishing families. Wheelchair-accessible. .com Email: [email protected] .com Email: [email protected] | beachcabinheaven.com .com seasonally or by appointment. .com [email protected] • 2182 Collison Ave • Masset 250-551-4611 • 156 Williams St • Masset 250-626-5472 • 15901 Tow Hill Rd • North Beach 250-626-5530 • 55 Raven Ave • Old Massett HIELLEN TOW HILL SANDY’S THE HIGHWATER LONGHOUSE MARINE SEAFOOD HOUSE • Unique, high-end accommodations VILLAGE TOURS DINING featuring custom architecture • Fully furnished house with spa-like bath • An unforgettable traditional Haida • Cultural and Fishing Charters out of • Excellent choice of fish & chips facilities longhouse experience Masset, Haida Gwaii • Complete Haida Experience • Spectacular secluded ocean front location • Pet-friendly accommodation • Locally owned and operated • Collection of local Haida art Get your delicious Haida Gwaii fish & chips! Highwater House was built using local materials and superb post and Located on Haida Nation land and nestled within beautiful Naikoon Park, Our cultural tours of the ancient Haida village sites in Northern Haida Find us at 75 Raven Avenue (3rd house on the waterside of Raven Ave). beam craftsmanship to produce a spectacular and unique building. Hiellen Longhouse Village offers seven traditional-style cedar Haida Gwaii are journeys into Haida history. Led by a Haida watchman, Summer hours (May 15 to September 15): Monday-Saturday 12pm-7pm, Nestled in the canopy of spruce trees, its incredible ocean views, longhouse cabins. There is a large Haida longhouse with 10 rooms, each L ve our full or half-day trips leave from Masset and are a must for L ve L ve L ve Sundays closed. elegant design and pristine location will make you think you’ve gone to with a bunkbed, for groups up to 20. Cozy, rustic and a simply unforgettable haidagwaii those seeking to learn more about the north end of Haida Gwaii. haidagwaii haidagwaii haidagwaii Land tours available, inquiry at the stand or email: [email protected] traveller’s heaven. More information at highwaterhouse.ca North Beach experience. .com towhillfishingcharter.com .com .com .com haidalonghouses.ca • Hiellen River • North Beach 250-626-6099 • [email protected] • Masset 250-626-7219 • 75 Raven Avenue • Old Massett 250-637-1111 • 1 Limberlost Pl • North Beach Sarah’s Haida Arts & Jewellry PROVINCIAL CAMPGROUNDSSANDY’S SEAFOOD Haida Haida AGATE BEACH MISTY MEADOWS Drums Argillite DINING CAMPGROUND • ExcellentCAMPGROUND choice of fish & chips • Complete Haida Experience • 24km east of Masset • •Collection 1km southof local of Haida Tlell art River bridge Get• your 38 delicious vehicle Haida camping Gwaii sites,fish & chips! picnic • 30 vehicle camping sites, Find usshelter, at 75 Raven pit toilets, Avenue (3rdwater house on the watersideprivate of Raven tenting Ave). area, picnic Haida Haida Summer hours (May 15 to September 15): Monday-Saturdayshelter, 12pm-7pm, pit toilets, waterL ve Weaving Jewelry Sundays closed. haidagwaii Land tours available, inquiry at the stand or email: [email protected] Fee charged between June 1st and September.com 30th $18250-626-7219BC seniors • 75 rate Raven June Avenue 1st - June • Old 15 Massettth • Based on Giftware, Cards, Books, Prints and much more! vehicle or party of four • Reservations not taken per night Firewood available for a fee
For more information about Naikoon Provincial Park visit: env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/naikoon
Facilities at Naikoon Provincial Park managed by: OLD MASSETT VILLAGE COUNCIL PARKS DEPARTMENT For questions. please contact Park Coordinator: PO Box 189, Old Massett, Haida Gwaii, V0T 1M0 Diverse. Unique. Authentic. [email protected] 387 Eagle Ave, Old Massett • 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily 250-626-5560 • Toll Free: 1-888-626-5560 sarahshaidaarts.com
88 Meet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com Accommodations Tourism/Adventure Artisan/Business Store/Restaurant Accommodations Tourism/AdventureArtisan/Business Store/Restaurant Meet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com 89 HAIDA WORD GUIDE A NOTE ON HAIDA LANGUAGE
lders say there were as many dialects of Haida as there were clans – at one time numbering well into the hun- LAND & SEA Edreds. Today three primary dialects are recognized: K’íis Xaad kíl southeastern Alaskan dialect, Gaw Xaad kil Haida northern dialect and HlGaagilda Xaayda Kil Haida southern dialect. GAW HLGAAGILDA XAAD KIL XAAYDA KIL The dedicated and vibrant Haida students in all communities, elders who A NOTE ON HAIDA LANGUAGE USE Fish eggs Tsaay Chaay language community is thoroughly gather in centres like Xaad Kil Nee and In this publication, the geographic Northern abalone Galgahlyaan GalGahlyan integrated into the islands fabric. HlGaagilda Xaayda Kil Naay Skidegate location of the story determines which Cassin’s Auklet Hajaa Haaja The community provides translation Haida Immersion Program (SHIP) to dialect is used. For the stories located services, spell-checking, the correct record and teach, university students north of Gamadiis Port Clements we Pacific herring 'Iinaang Iinang use of words, and context references earning teaching degrees, those who use Gaw Xaad kil and for those south Harlequin duck Sasaa K’iigee K’ayda k’uuxawuu to many publications and individuals on participate in discussion and write of Gamadiis we use HlGaagilda Xaayda Pelagic cormorant K’yaaluu K’yaaluu Haida Gwaii. The community includes in the language online, and people Kil. Pine marten K’uu K’uuxuu fluent speakers mentoring younger teaching themselves at home. Salmon berries Sk’awGaan Sk’awGandala SOME OF THE PLACE NAMES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE Haida Gwaii goshawk Sdads k’un Stads k’un Red cedar Ts’uu Ts’uu Chaahluu Kaahlii Rennell Sound Gina Guu Aahljuu Naay Performance NansGa Gandlaay K'yuu Gore Brook Cedar bark Giid Ts’uu k’al Chaana GangGaaw Gandlaay Muncord House trail Creek GuuhlGa Llnagaay Skidegate Landing Nasduu Gandlee Hippa Island Grizzly bear Xuuts’ Xuuajii Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte GuuhlGa Siiwaay K'yuu Spirit Lake Trail Nee Kun Rose Spit BEINGS XAAYDA KIL AND Daajing Giids GawGa Bearskin Bay Gyaa K'id Naay Carving House Saahlinda Naay Haida Gwaii Museum The Haida canon of K’iygang K’aygang.nga Daa.ulgaay Skidegate Narrows Juus Kaahlii Juskatla Siigee Dixon Entrance oral histories XAAD KIL CONSONANTS Dal Kaahlii Delkatla Slough K'aayxada TlldaGawaay Mount Moresby SGang Gwaay Anthony Island Matrilineal Lips p, b, m, w descendants of the Yaalaa Kayxal Damaxyaa Kaahlgwa Gandlaay K'yuu Crabapple SGidlii Gandlee K'yuuwee White Creek Trail Creek trail raven moiety Diinal GawGa Gray Bay Sk’aw Gandalaa Cape Fife t, t’, d, n, ts, ts’, j, s, KandaliiGwii Hecate Strait Respected one Kilslaay Kilsdlaay Back of Duu Guusd the west coast of Haida T'aanuu Llnagaay Tanu teeth Gwaii Kay Llnagaay Sealion Town Matrilineal tl, tl’, dl, hl, l, l’ Taa Suu Tasu Inlet descendants of the Guuda Kuustak HlGaa K'aayhllnga Balance Rock Kay Tay Daanaay Cape St. James T'agaa Vancouver eagle moiety Hard palate y, ch HlGaagilda Skidegate K'iid K'iiyaas K'yuu Golden Spruce Trail Taaw Tow Hill Haida ancestors Kuniisii Kuuniisii HlGuu K'aw.was TlldaGaaw Mosquito K'iid Xyangs K'iidaay Burnaby Narrows Tlaga Gawtlaas New Town One Whose Voice Soft palate k, k’, g, ng, x, w mountain K'iis Gwaay Langara Point is Obeyed or Nang Kilslaas Nang Kilsdlaas Tll.aal Tlell Hlk'yah GawGa Windy Bay K’il Llnagaay Sandspit Supernatural Raven Tll.aal Gandlaay Tlell River k, k’, G (in Xaayda Hl’yaalan Galguusd Agate Beach Kil Kun Spit Point Uvula Tllgaduu GawGa Kagan Bay Supernatural Being SGaanuwee SGaana Kil), x Gaahllns kun Cape Ball K’uuna Llnagaay Skedans Ts’aa.ahl Gwaay.yaay Chaatl Island ITEMS & EVENTS Hl’yaalang waagusd the McIntyre Bay Kuu Jad TlldaGaw Sleeping Beauty area Ts’uu Ts'idga Lawn Hill Monumental pole Gyaa’aang GyaaGang Glottis G (in Xaad Kil) mountain Gandll K’in Gwaay.yaay Hotspring Island Xaana Kaahlii GawGaay Skidegate Inlet Expert carver K’id ‘leegaa ‘aayaagaa Gya k’id llGaayGa K'waas T'amgid shallow spot on the spit Gandll SkahlGaal St. Mary’s Spring near Sandspit Xaaydas Giinaa.ah Naay Haida Heritage Raven’s Tail weaving Yaahl Kuu Naaxiin House Gantl' Gaadaas Pure Lake Kwahtsiisda the Blow Hole Grandmother Naanii Nanaay Xiina Gwaay.yaay Ramsay Island Gamadiis Port Clements Kwiid Suu Mayer Lake Copper shield T’aaw T’aaGuu Xuuya Gandlee Oeanda River Gámadis Gandlee Port Clements Kxeen Prince Rupert Making things right Tll yahdaa Tll yahda Yaagun Kún Yakan Point (Balance) Gaw Kaahlii Masset Inlet Kyahjuu GawGa Queen Charlotte harbour Yaagun Gandlee Yakoun River Grandfather Chinaay Chiinang Gaw Tlagee the land around of Masset Inlet 'Laana GaayGaagings Copper River Yaagun Kaahlii Stl'ang Yakoun River Respect Yahgudang Yahguudang estuary Gawu Kuns Moresby Camp Village Potlatch 'Waahl’ahl 'WaahlGahl Yaagun Suu Yakoun Lake VOWELS Gawu Kuns Siiwaay Mosquito Lake MaaGan Gandlaay Cape Ball River Thank you Haw’aa Haawa
90 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 91 TLL.AAL TLELL AREA GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE ADVERTISEMENT INDEX Crystal Cabin & Gallery ...... 24 Bayview Market ...... 83 Junebug Cafe & Gifts ...... 16 Haawa to all of the hardworking Haida Gwaii businesses that support Sitka Studio ...... 72 TLL.AAL TLELL AREA J&T Family Restaurant ...... 18 Tadswii' • Kaats'ii hla This is Haida Gwaii HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE Crow's Nest Cafe & Country Store ..82 Oceanview Pub & Grill ...... 20 All About U Arts ...... 22 K'IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPIT Sapporo Japanese Restaurant ...... 20 STADS K'UN GAWGA PEEL INLET TLL.AAL TLELL AREA ACCOMMODATIONS Longhouse Gift Shop ...... 22 SuperValu Sandspit ...... 13 K'IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPIT HL’YAALANG WAAGUSD Ocean House ...... 10 Misty Meadows Campground ...... 88 KAY LLNAGAAY Shingle Bay Bistro ...... 14 NORTH BEACH KXEEN PRINCE RUPERT CULTURAL & NATURE CENTRES LOCAL INSTITUTIONS beachcabinheaven.com ...... 89 Haida Gwaii Museum Trading House ..11 Gwaii Trust Society ...... 48 Crest Hotel ...... 8 MASSET SEAFOOD PROCESSING DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE Haida Gwaii Beach Cabins ...... 87 Nature Centre at Delkatla ...... 86 Haida Gwaii Institute ...... 6 Albion Farms & Fisheries ...... 8 Hiellen Longhouse Village ...... 88 ARTISANS Charlisle ...... 15 Haida Gwaii Trader ...... 83 Dave's Custom Carvings ...... 86 KAY LLNAGAAY SPORT RENTALS & MORE Highwater House ...... 89 Haida Heritage Centre ...... 11 Funk It ...... 21 Haida Heritage Centre ...... 11 MASSET Elephant Cage Coffee ...... 85 North Beach Cabins ...... 87 Junebug Cafe & Gifts ...... 16 HaidaNation.ca ...... 83 Masset Bikes ...... 85 Islandwise Essentials ...... 15, 86 EVENTS MASSET TLL.AAL TLELL AREA HARDWARE STORES MARINE TRANSPORTATION North Beach Surf Shop ...... 86 April's White Raven House ...... 89 ADVENTURE TOURS Edge of the World Festival ...... 12 MASSET Highlander Marine Services ...... 20 DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE Copper Beach House ...... 86 & FISHING CHARTERS Haida Gwaii Co-op Hardware ...... 95 KAY LLNAGAAY MUSEUMS Green Coast Kayaking ...... 19 Delkatla Boathouse ...... 85 GAW TLAGEE OLD MASSETT Totem to Totem Marathon ...... 21 DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE MASSET K'IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPIT Uproot Guesthouse ...... 88 Sandy's Seafood Dining ...... 89 ATM & FINANCIAL SERVICES ACE the Helpful Place ...... 19 Dixon Entrance Maritime Museum ...88 Moresby Explorers ...... 14 GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS MASSET MASSET & GROCERIES, MARKETS & MORE GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS Budgies Backpacker & Sightseer Haida Gwaii Fishing Charters ...... 17 VEHICLE RENTALS DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE MASSET Hostel ...... 84 Tow HIll Marine Tours ...... 83 Port Clements Museum ...... 82 HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE Northern Savings Credit Union ...... 85 Haida Gwaii Co-op ...... 94 Smilies Guesthouses ...... 84 GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS KAY LLNAGAAY Longhouse Gift Shop ...... 22 Masset Market ...... 86 Sunset Park RV & Camping ...... 82 Budgies Backpacker & Sightseer FERRY SERVICES Haida Gwaii Museum ...... 11 Haida Gwaii Scooter Rentals ...... 23 GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS TLL.AAL TLELL AREA Hostel ...... 84 BC Ferries ...... 7 Port Clements Museum ...... 82 DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE Bayview Market ...... 83 Cacilia's B&B ...... 83 DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE FOOD TRUCKS NATIONAL PARK Budget Rent-a-Car ...... 19 Haida House ...... 10 Atlas Ocean Tours ...... 83 GAW TLAGEE OLD MASSETT TLL.AAL TLELL AREA Gwaii Haanas National Park ...... 79 Charlotte Tire ...... 19 Crow's Nest Cafe & Country Store ..82 Riverside B&B ...... 22 Green Coast Kayaking ...... 19 Sandy's Seafood Dining ...... 89 VETERINARY, FEED STORE & HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE AREA PHARMACY Richardson Ranch Guesthouses ...... 23 Gwaii Land Tour Company ...... 19 GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE ANIMAL BOARDING Haida Gwaii Co-op ...... 94 Sitka Cottage ...... 82 Haida Style Expeditions ...... 13 Fork in Port ...... 84 Forbes IDA Pharmacy ...... 18 Haida Gwaii Animal Hospital/ HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE AREA Sail Piraeus ...... 18 DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE K'IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPIT Richardson Ranch ...... 23 PROFESSIONAL SERVICES Jag's Beanstalk ...... 22 K'IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPIT SuperValu Sandspit ...... 13 The Phantom Kitchen ...... 17 A&A Trading (Haida Gwaii) Ltd ...... 13 VILLAGES DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE Sandspit Adventures ...... 14 DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE Sandspit Community Society ...... 19 GAS / SERVICE STATION McElhanney ...... 15 Abalone Eyes House ...... 14 Moresby Explorers ...... 14 Isabel Creek Store ...... 16 Village of Masset ...... 84 MASSET DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE Absence of Time House ...... 15 Village of Port Clements ...... 82 BUS CHARTERS, TAXI On The Mark Services ...... 87 HEALTH & WELLNESS Haida Gwaii Designs & Signs ...... 20 Cassie's Cottage ...... 20 & SHUTTLE SERVCIES GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS MASSET VISITOR CENTRES Chateau Norm ...... 17 GAW TLAGEE MASSETT AREA & MORE Ebony Bellis RMT ...... 85 PROVINCIAL PARK GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS Angela's Place ...... 84 BC Parks ...... 80-81 Duffy's Guesthouses ...... 21 Mile Zero Taxi ...... 87 HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE AREA HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE AREA Port Clements Museum ...... 82 Gracie's Place Hotel ...... 20 DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE Taaw Naay Gas Station ...... 21 Kim Goetzinger Massage Therapy RESTAURANTS & CAFES DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE Clinic ...... 21 MASSET Greenroot Guesthouse ...... 15 & HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE Queen Charlotte Visitor Center ...... 17 DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE Mile Zero Dining Room & Daddy Hecate Inn ...... 21 Eagle Transit (YZP shuttle) ...... 15 Charlotte Tire ...... 19 K'IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPIT Cool's Public House ...... 87 Echo Bay Lodge ...... 18 Gwaii Taxi & Tours ...... 16 Sun Studio ...... 16 Sandspit Visitor Centre ...... 19 GALLERIES, JEWELRY, The Ground Gallery & Coffeehouse ....84 Misty Harbour Inn ...... 18 K'IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPIT LEGAL SERVICES CLOTHING & GIFTS GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS Premier Creek Lodging ...... 16 Sandspit Bus ...... 19 GAW TLAGEE OLD MASSETT MASSET Sea Raven Motel ...... 20 Angela's Place Social Cafe ...... 84 CAMPING & RVS April's White Raven House ...... 89 Meghan A. Wallace Barrister & Solicitor ...... 87 TLL.AAL TLELL AREA Skyfall Cottage ...... 17 HL’YAALANG WAAGUSD Gin Kuyaas Haida Art Studio Crow's Nest Cafe & Country Store ..82 Skidegate Inlet Retreat ...... 21 NORTH BEACH & Gifts ...... 89 DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE Haida House ...... 10 Advertising inquries: Spruce Point Lodge ...... 19 Agate Beach Campground ...... 88 Sarah's Haida Arts and Jewelry ...... 88 Haida Gwaii Law Office ...... 18 HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE AREA contact Alanah Mountifield Sword Fern Inn ...... 17 MASSET MASSET LIQUOR STORES [email protected] The Last Resort ...... 16 Chown River Gallery ...... 87 DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE Jag's Beanstalk ...... 22 Hidden Island RV ...... 86 or call 250-559-8050 K'IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPIT GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS Ladybird Boutique ...... 87 Howlers Private Liquor Store ...... 17 Sandspit Adventures ...... 14 Sunset Park RV & Camping ...... 82 North Beach Apparel ...... 84 Sandspit Inn ...... 9 North Beach Surf Shop ...... 86
92 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 93 Groceries Home Centre Meat Camping Produce Gear Dairy Fishing Bakery Supplies Deli Bait Hunting Ice Supplies Photo: Mary Helmer
You’re at home here GuuhlGa Siiwaay K’yuu Spirit Lake Trail uuhlGa Siiwaay K’yuu the Spirit Lake trail complex is a network of looping trails in the hills just above HlGaagilda GSkidegate. The trailhead is located across the highway from Naa Gaagudgiikyagangs George Brown Recreation Centre and a Red cedar carving of a ‘WaasGuu a supernatural being by artist Billy Bellis marks the beginning of a series of walks that accommodates most fitness levels – from an easy stroll to a vigorous hike or run. Check the map at the trailhead to orientate yourself before heading up.
The main trail begins with an easy am- loop and back to the trailhead – not the summer numerous song and water ble through the forest and then hits counting stopping for a rest or picnic, birds frequent the lakes. Throughout a short grade that takes you up to a taking in the view or observing wildlife. the area is evidence of Haida cultural MASSET HOME CENTRE GWAII side hill which follows T’am Gandlaay practices including bark-stripped trees Mission Creek. Once across the next Low hills surround the lake on three and culturally modified trees. In one FOOD BRANCH & HARDWARE FOOD BRANCH bridge another short steep pitch takes sides producing a micro-climate that spot a portion of a felled tree still rests 1562 Main Street • Masset 1538 Main Street • Masset 7498 Hwy 16 • Skidegate you up to another bridge, and then one encourages the rich growth of plants near its base. more moderate grade up into the lake and the animals that take advantage area. Once there you have a choice of of the habitat. Views from the trail and The lake features dramatic spike- (250) 626-3933 (250) 626-3933 (250) 559-8078 routes – short or long – and all are of fern-covered hillsides highlight the topped cedar trees and wetlands and is easy to moderate effort. One trail tra- complex stages of a growing forest often a quiet place to enjoy the sights verses the outside of the lake and oth- and the myriad shades of green typical and sounds of Haida Gwaii’s natural en- SUMMER HOURS, EVERY DAY ers loop the interior. Times vary given of a rainforest. Trumpeter swans are vironment on a late summer evening. your route. For many people, about an seen in the winter along with ts'aag GROCERIES: 9 A.M. - 8 P.M. | HOME CENTRE & HARDWARE: 9 A.M. - 6 P.M. hour will take you around the outside Bald eagles and Xuuya ravens, and in
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Respectful silence at Ts’aa.ahl Gwaay.yaay Chaatl. Photo: Gregory Gould