&I ?@KOCA@<OPM@N<I?OM<Q@G<?QD>@AMJHOC@@SK@MONKGPNM@<?@MN]ODKN<I?M@>JHH@I?<ODJINO@G@BM<KC >J PFOM<Q@G The Sunday Telegraph 11.08.13 ADAM RUCK EXPLORES THE CIVILISED CHARMS OF KEA P05 STACEY DOOLEY DWELLS ON TOKYO’S OFTEN SURREAL APPEAL P13 LAMY A RAJASTHAN RIDES Following in the hoof prints of the Rajput warriors, Nicky Holford gallops through the magnificent Thar Desert atop her trusty Marwari steed he sun is beating down and north of Jaipur, on the edge of the Thar and Rajput influences are part of its dust gets in my eyes as I swerve Desert, 400 kilometres from the character, and its history of Rajput to avoid a startled camel that Pakistan border. We have abandoned warriors is rich. One of its attractions lopes across my path. But my the golden triangle of Rajasthan and is the havelis left to deteriorate by the horse is unfaltering, a true replaced the trappings of tourism with Marwari merchants, many of which are Twarrior weaving through rows of millet, tumbling forts and deteriorating accessible to the public. A combination unfazed by the numerous obstacles in merchant havelis. of tax-free advantages and profits from his path. Now off the beaten track, this trade led merchant families to build I’m inches from the horse in front, region was once an important caravan imposing havelis embellished with whose thundering hooves transport me route across the Thar Desert between hand-painted murals telling stories Battle ready: Rajasthan’s to the days of the Rajput warriors Delhi and Sindh (which is now of battles and love, decorated with big magnificent forts dot the galloping into battle, far from the chaos part of Pakistan) and the Gujarati glass chandeliers and the latest fittings landscape, top; Marwari horses, of Rajasthan’s busy cities. coast. Its history comprises battle of the time from Europe. above, were bred for royalty We are in the Shekhawati region, and religion: today both Muslim Continued on Page 2 ID:-1 size:8.558 by967 T T DISCOVER INDIA DISCOVER INDIA 4") ,*" 1,!&0 ,3"/ &O]N<H<UDIBCJR The horses’ tack is polished, their saddlecloths of red and safron M@KPO<ODJIN^<I? K@M>@KODJIN^><I >C<IB@ N<TN#DJI< Continued from Page 1 !PI><I RCJPIODG Before climbing aboard Chandrarekha (which means "NN@IOD<GN M@>@IOGTOCJPBCO “ray of moonlight”), my Marwari steed, we are taken GETTING THERE cocktail list. There are several Thai D<MMDOUOJ=@< through the dusty streets of Jet Airways (0808 101 1199; jetairways. options, curries and Western food, \B@IO@@G=<NODJIJA Mahansar by Rajesh. He dips com) flies from London Heathrow to all beautifully cooked and presented into a dark entrance filled Delhi daily. Return fares start at £555. (291 263 6455; raasjodhpur.com; A<?@?@G@B<I>@] 1C<O with bags of flour and maize Flights are also available from cocktails £9; dinner, £18 for two R<NPIODGNC@M<IDIOJ and emerges with a key, for Manchester and Birmingham via courses, £22 for three). which we are asked to donate Brussels. Fares from Delhi to Udaipur OC@NPMA@MN<OOC@ 100 rupees (£1). The key start at £42.20 one way. Prices include Chadni, Udaivilas, Udaipur £££ opens the door of the Golden all taxes. Jet Airways, celebrating 20 Arrive by boat at the hotel’s jetty, where #M@I>CM@NJMO PO<N House. Inside, every wall and years of service, has the largest a golf cart will take you through the NC@N<TNJI-OC@M@ ceiling is painted, much of it domestic network, connecting 52 extensive rambling gardens with paths with gold leaf, and he tells us destinations across India. and fountains lit like a fairy castle. Eat at M@<GGTDNNJH@OCDIBAJM the elaborate stories of the tables under canopies or al fresco. The @Q@MTJI@OC@M@ $JDIB murals. Large dust-coated PACKAGES service is impeccable, and it has mouth- mirrors from Belgium and Greaves Travel (020 7487 9111; watering starters and appetisers with A<MOC@M<AD@G? JPM France line the walls. It is as greavesindia.co.uk) offers tailor- subtle spices and new tastes. Even the AMJIO K<B@NOJMTADI?N unexpected as walking into a made tours to India. A 10-night tour many types of bread have a twist and vault of gold bullion. Another to Rajasthan including one night are sublimely delicious (141 221 1276; +D>FT%JGAJM? key is secured from a man at the Oberoi Amarvilas, Agra, and oberoihotels.com; £35-£50 including a OM<INKJMO@?=<>FOJ who shows up on a bicycle two nights at the Serai, Jaisalmer, local wine). (another 100 rupees), and we costs from £2,750 per person. Price OC@?<TNJA/<EKPO walk into the Dancing House, includes return flight, internal flights, THE INSIDE TRACK which is equally dazzling. b & b accommodation and private British passport holders need a visa, R<MMDJMN<NNC@O@GGNJA When we get back, the sightseeing, including a visit to the which costs £82. Apply online (in. C@M<?Q@IOPM@NDI horses are ready to go. Their Taj Mahal. vfsglobal.co.uk). For postal applications tack is polished and their In the Saddle (01299 272997; allow at least 14 days. /<E<NOC<I I? martingales and saddlecloths inthesaddle.com) has a Fairs and For vaccinations and malaria OC<IFTJPAJMTJPM are great sashes of red, Festivals ride from October 24 to information, contact your GP or the denoting religion, and November 4 2013. Ride through the National Travel Health Network and M@NKJIN@NOJJPM saffron, the colour of courage ancient kingdoms of Shekhawati, Centre (nathnac.org). 6JPM0<T>JHK@ODODJI and sacrifice in battle. staying in palaces and tented camps. Royal Equestrian and Polo Centre at Our guide and leader, The 11-night trip (seven days’ riding) Monumental view: the Oberoi Amarvilas in Agra overlooks the Taj Mahal Dundlod (141 221 1276; dundlod.com) - RCD>C?M@R<I Kanwar Raghuvendra Singh, costs from £1,748 per person sharing, can arrange riding and overnight stays <MM<TJA@IOMD@NJI a descendant of the Rajput flights not included. There are other terraces, and every whim is catered for. with a pool and spa, a cocktail bar and at the Risala tented camp. ruler Kesari Singh and better itineraries to coincide with the Pushkar Don’t miss an Udaipur martini or a terrace overlooking the Taj and Shahi Palace (2992 255920; 1MDKNJA<)DA@ODH@ known as Bonnie, is dressed Fair in November, the Nagaur Fair in Vesper, and order a DVD of Octopussy, exceptional service with details such as shahipalacehotel.com) can arrange in the full uniform of the January/February and a ride each year which comes with popcorn, to watch pillow menus, chilled facecloths and overnight Jeep or camel desert trips RDOCODKNM<IBDIBAMJH Indian cavalry. With his running over Christmas and New Year. the scenes filmed around Udaipur and sunscreen at the pool as standard outside Jaisalmer. &I?D<OJOC@ MDH@< maroon beret, good looks the Lake Palace (294 242 8800; (11 2389 0606; oberoihotels.com; Don’t miss the experience of <I?@Q@I&JI< and manicured moustache, WHERE TO STAY tajhotels.com; doubles from £342 a premier doubles from £455 a night). travelling by train. You can book online he looks as if he’s straight ADDLE The Diggi Palace, Jaipur £ night, including breakfast). up to 60 days in advance. The most from a film set. S A secluded heritage haveli minutes WHERE TO EAT user-friendly way to do it is on cleartrip. N THE His determination to save I from the walls of the pink city with a The Serai camp, Jaisalmer £££ Baradari Mahal, Diggi Palace, Jaipur £ com, which has a £1 surcharge. the Marwari horses from Rajasthan route: clockwise from main picture, Bonnie, in full uniform, leads lovely garden, large lawn, outdoor A sumptuous tented camp at the edge Set around a large lawn, bordered by The Jaipur Literature Festival 2014 LAMY; LAMY; extinction and to keep the A the way; Udaipur is a clash of colours; and Golden House is lined with murals terraces and courtyards and pool. of the desert, modelled on an original lush vegetation, sweeping trees and takes place at the Diggi Palace from 1750 family fort at Dundlod Owned by the Thakurs of army camp, with a lovely pillared terraces. Most of the food is January 17 to 21 going began with the filming holidays to fairs such as Saddle support: supplies go on smiling. I wave back, feeling we have to swerve at the taken to rest in the shade, The fort is luxurious, with Jyotika and Sandhya Kumari blows and the train chugs Navratri festival. It is Indian Diggi since the 1860s, it pool and spa. There’s organic and produced on the owner’s (jaipurliteraturefestival.org). of The Far Pavilions. Bonnie Pushkar and Nagaur, ahead, leaving tour very regal indeed. We ride last minute to miss a man and an elaborate picnic for large rooms and modern Diggi, I have a rare chance into the night, taking us again pomp and ceremony at its is a labyrinth of corridors a profusion of wildlife, farms, and all the spices, pulses and The country code for India is 91. was location scout for the camping in tents or staying in participants to enjoy the ride, through the village avoiding napping on a bed. In the us. Tables are laden with a bathrooms. But we don’t have to ride their polo ponies. to the Thar Desert and the colourful best, with a and courtyards with DID YOU especially birds, in this grains are locally grown.