&I ?@KOC A@ ADAM RUCK EXPLORES THE CIVILISED CHARMS OF KEA P05 STACEY DOOLEY DWELLS ON TOKYO’S OFTEN SURREAL APPEAL P13 LAMY A RAJASTHAN RIDES Following in the hoof prints of the Rajput warriors, Nicky Holford gallops through the magnificent Thar Desert atop her trusty Marwari steed he sun is beating down and north of Jaipur, on the edge of the Thar and Rajput influences are part of its dust gets in my eyes as I swerve Desert, 400 kilometres from the character, and its history of Rajput to avoid a startled camel that Pakistan border. We have abandoned warriors is rich. One of its attractions lopes across my path. But my the golden triangle of Rajasthan and is the havelis left to deteriorate by the horse is unfaltering, a true replaced the trappings of tourism with Marwari merchants, many of which are Twarrior weaving through rows of millet, tumbling forts and deteriorating accessible to the public. A combination unfazed by the numerous obstacles in merchant havelis. of tax-free advantages and profits from his path. Now off the beaten track, this trade led merchant families to build I’m inches from the horse in front, region was once an important caravan imposing havelis embellished with whose thundering hooves transport me route across the Thar Desert between hand-painted murals telling stories Battle ready: Rajasthan’s to the days of the Rajput warriors Delhi and Sindh (which is now of battles and love, decorated with big magnificent forts dot the galloping into battle, far from the chaos part of Pakistan) and the Gujarati glass chandeliers and the latest fittings landscape, top; Marwari horses, of Rajasthan’s busy cities. coast. Its history comprises battle of the time from Europe. above, were bred for royalty We are in the Shekhawati region, and religion: today both Muslim Continued on Page 2 ID:-1 size:8.558 by967 T T DISCOVER INDIA DISCOVER INDIA 4") ,*" 1, !&0 ,3"/ &O]N he looks as if he’s straight ADDLE The Diggi Palace, Jaipur £ night, including breakfast). up to 60 days in advance. The most from a film set. S A secluded heritage haveli minutes WHERE TO EAT user-friendly way to do it is on cleartrip. N THE His determination to save I from the walls of the pink city with a The Serai camp, Jaisalmer £££ Baradari Mahal, Diggi Palace, Jaipur £ com, which has a £1 surcharge. the Marwari horses from Rajasthan route: clockwise from main picture, Bonnie, in full uniform, leads lovely garden, large lawn, outdoor A sumptuous tented camp at the edge Set around a large lawn, bordered by The Jaipur Literature Festival 2014 LAMY; LAMY; extinction and to keep the A the way; Udaipur is a clash of colours; and Golden House is lined with murals terraces and courtyards and pool. of the desert, modelled on an original lush vegetation, sweeping trees and takes place at the Diggi Palace from 1750 family fort at Dundlod Owned by the Thakurs of army camp, with a lovely pillared terraces. Most of the food is January 17 to 21 going began with the filming holidays to fairs such as Saddle support: supplies go on smiling. I wave back, feeling we have to swerve at the taken to rest in the shade, The fort is luxurious, with Jyotika and Sandhya Kumari blows and the train chugs Navratri festival. It is Indian Diggi since the 1860s, it pool and spa. There’s organic and produced on the owner’s (jaipurliteraturefestival.org). of The Far Pavilions. Bonnie Pushkar and Nagaur, ahead, leaving tour very regal indeed. We ride last minute to miss a man and an elaborate picnic for large rooms and modern Diggi, I have a rare chance into the night, taking us again pomp and ceremony at its is a labyrinth of corridors a profusion of wildlife, farms, and all the spices, pulses and The country code for India is 91. was location scout for the camping in tents or staying in participants to enjoy the ride, through the village avoiding napping on a bed. In the us. Tables are laden with a bathrooms. But we don’t have to ride their polo ponies. to the Thar Desert and the colourful best, with a and courtyards with DID YOU especially birds, in this grains are locally grown. Try the miniseries. But when it came former forts or palaces. The top; guests stay overnight in roaming cows and women middle of nowhere we come variety of dishes: curries, time to explore, as Abimanya, Father and son both play at honey-coloured stone fort at procession of pipers and simple but brightly KNOW? isolated spot. Jeep trips roasted and mashed aubergines, to certain scenes, without the longer trips are not for the former forts, palaces or tents laden with large piles of wood across small settlements paneer, dal, a selection of son of the current Thakur of the Rajasthan Polo Club. The Jaisalmer, built in the 1150s. soldiers followed by the painted rooms all varying India has the highest to the desert, camel jungle maans curry or chicken roasted 4% 1 1, 3,&! ONLINE Looking for a thoroughbred Marwari horse faint-hearted. Marwari horses in the Thar Desert, above until we leave all signs of where there is always a breads and chutneys. Alsisar, insists on taking us in clubhouse is a veritable hall Our final days are spent in Maharana arriving in a in size and décor from number of post offices riding among the dunes in melon and poppy seeds. It has a summer escape? with its distinctive lyre- are spirited beasts, able to habitation behind. water trough for the horses When we mount up again, his Second World War jeep to of fame. There are photos Udaipur, where I get to ride carriage drawn by six horses. rooftop to garden rooms. in the world and star-filled nights good choice of curries and Western Dehydration, by always having Browse more than 100 shaped ears, it lacked gallop for long periods of In this parched and and a school where children the intensity of the sun has his favourite sunset spot. of heads of state and royalty another Marwari horse in Later, to celebrate the end of The Jaipur Literature around the campfires food, and is a lovely peaceful spot for bottled water or drinking fresh lime guides to the world’s authenticity. Bonnie was sent time and travel for miles in sometimes inhospitable scream with delight and waned, the horses are keen We arrive back in Jaipur from all over the world, from much greener countryside Navratri, festivities carry on Festival is hosted here give you a great feeling lunch (141 237 3091; hoteldiggipalace. juice with salt. Sachets of leading destinations. Each to find these former warrior the heat and dust of their Mahansar scrub, winter farming has rush to see us, waving with and we find the wide open as dusk coats the city in a John F Kennedy and Jackie and stay in the Lake Palace until late in the night. But we every January, and of space conducive to com; prices from £5-£15). electrolytes are easily available at guide is written by an horses and, when filming desert homeland. Alsisar recently been introduced. great enthusiasm. space of desert. A few hours pink and golden haze. In the Onassis to Diana, Princess hotel, which rises majestically take the boat, which glides clients are more often buyers of textiles reflection. Morning coffee, afternoon local shops or pharmacies. expert, who ofers in-depth finished, he ended up buying The day we set off for Thar Desert Stretches of desert have been Bonnie’s horse, Mumtaz, later, on the horizon we can distance we can see children of Wales. out of Lake Pichola. It has through the black night than tourists (0091 141 237 3091; tea in your tent and an impressive Darikhana, RAAS, Jodhpur ££ Lugging bulky luggage. Ideal for reviews of the finest them. Now tucked away off a Alsisar Mahal, 45 kilometres turned into fields of millet can fly like the wind, and we see the turrets of Alsisar, flying kites from the rooftops. The following night we been 20 years since my last towards the lights of the Lake hoteldiggipalace.com; doubles from menu make for an extremely This stunningly designed haveli this sort of trip is the hybrid Dundlod hotels, a selection of the dusty track in the family seat away, is the first ride of the Jaisalmer bordered by posts and wire, cover a lot of ground. When our destination. As we Away from the sounds of the step over sleeping bodies visit, and both India and the Palace dancing on the water. £60 a night, including breakfast). pampered experience (11 4606 7608; makes a great change from palaces rucksack/suitcase that’s soft best restaurants and bars, of Dundlod is the Royal season, and the horses are Jaipur and Bonnie has to forge a the sun is full in the sky and I approach, it looks even city we wait for the midnight in the train station to find hotel have changed beyond sujanluxury.com; doubles from £350, and forts yet looks on to the majestic topped with sturdy wheels. Try the advice on what to see and Equestrian and Polo Centre, well up for adventure. As we new route as the crops have finally succeeded in more imposing, raised high train to Jaisalmer in the our platform. Fortunately, all recognition. Taj Lake Palace hotel, Udaipur £££ breakfast included). Mehrangarh Fort at Jodhpur. It’s right Sojourn from Osprey (ospreypacks. do – and avoid – as well as one of the largest breeding leave through the imposing haven’t been harvested yet making myself look like above the town. The road to serene surroundings of the a girl who works for the By chance our last night 6,2/ 0 6 On Lake Pichola and reached by a in the walled city, minutes from the com), £160 for 60 litres, or the new the pick of operators to centres of Marwari horses iron gates of Mahansar castle, Udaipur after the monsoons. Lawrence of Arabia to avoid the fort is cobbled, and I Diggi Palace. Unfortunately, Santander call centre tells us coincides with Ashwa Poojan, Have you been on a riding or private motor launch, the Lake Palace ££££ clock tower. A secluded oasis of red Ozone 70 Convertible with a ranching holiday? Send your The Oberoi Amarvilas, Agra take you there in India. built to keep out charging We gallop in between the burning, we arrive at a village feel swept back in history as there is a slight hiccup with exactly where to stand. Sure a ceremony to worship and comments to yoursay@telegraph. hotel, which used to be the summer This luxurious hotel is sheer indulgence sandstone complemented by flowing detachable rucksack, £180. telegraph.co.uk/ Every year, during the elephants, the streets are crops, startling chickens, to find a whole support team. we pass the main gates and our train tickets and we enough, the train arrives give thanks to the Marwari co.uk for the chance to win a residence of Maharana Jagat Singh II, away from the heat and dust of Agra, muslin curtains decorate the pillared When travelling by taxi or rickshaw destinations cooler months from October suddenly filled with children 100 miles and have to avoid the odd There are grooms for the clatter up a steep ramp into don’t make it. But instead, on time and we are outside horse, held at the City Palace Thames river cruise. retains a royal feel. There are beautifully with spectacular views of the Taj Mahal. section of the restaurant. A rooftop bar always agree the price first. to March, Bonnie leads riding and villagers waving and makeshift dwelling. Once horses, who are untacked and the courtyard. thanks to the haveli owners our compartment. A whistle on the ninth day of the Hindu manicured courtyards and numerous It has beautifully landscaped gardens has views to the fort and an extensive
The Sunday Telegraph 11.08.13
