Longing, Sorrow and Splendor

"...It has been said that these lands are a copy of earthly paradise, and it could be true..."

From a 17TH Century Chronicle

I t may be interesting for visitors to know something about IUDAD the surroundings they are staying in; who its people were and how they got here, how they lived and how they C managed to survive through such a long period of adventures and ODRIGO changes. R And Its Parador Several centuries before our era, these lands were dominated by the Celts and inhabited by Vetton tribes. Estrabon recorded that these peoples were wild and simple: "They sleep on the ground, wear their hair long, like women; they eat goat's meat and sacrifice goats, horses and prisoners by the hundreds...." They knew how to make beer and wine, and they worshipped the holm oak and numerous other idols.

The Roman legions lived and fought in this area for more than four hundred years. They built temples, roads and other public works. They imposed rules and laws for more civilized society, but their intentions were more related to war and domestication than anything else. There are now few reminders of their work, but some remain, including tombstones and coins and the so-called "Tres Columnas" - columns that formed part of a pagan temple that adorns today the town that arose out of that ancient town of Miróbriga.

These were difficult times, full of Gothic barbarities that would lead into the times of the Sarracen invaders. The chronicles say that it was one of Muza's sons at the head of an army of 20,000 sons of Allah, who put an end to the dynasty. It is sworn that it was in these mountains, known as the Peña de Francia, where Rodrigo sought refuge and found exile, and, perhaps death, after the defeat of Guadalete.

For many long years, there was no bread, no people and no lords in these lands. Neither Moors nor Christians wanted them for anything other than to keep themselves separate. Finally, King Fernando II came to repopulate a large part of the region with Christians he brought from Ávila, León and other areas of the Christian north.

The king fortified the town by surrounding it with a wall, part of which can be seen today. The rest is easy to imagine. A new Christian Miróbriga came to life, but it was wild and excessively independent and belligerent towards its neighbors in and León. As it soon became a diocese, it needed a cathedral, which it eventually achieved after two centuries of frequently interrupted work. Progress was seriously affected by disastrous relations between the Moors and the Portuguese and other Christians on this side of the non-existent border.

What the visitor sees today is nearly the same cathedral as that of years ago. The cathedral is part Romanesque, part Gothic, and has been subjected to several face-lifts over the years. It merits an unhurried visit to admire the starred vault designed by Gil de Hontañón, and the rich and intricate carvings on tombs, capitals

CIUDAD RODRIGO AND ITS PARADOR 1 and windows. The cloister is exquisite, as is nobility and other gentlemen in search of the choir, which Mateo Alemán decorated titles. There were traders who peddled goods with delicate, but scarcely edifying and ideas and religious persons who attended carvings. The belfry above the gable wall to spirits and souls. became a was added in the 18th century. market and a metropolis, and a sanctuary for arms. Streets, houses and windows opened But the town would have to await the onto the rhythms of the Renaissance. These arrival of the monarchs Carlos V and his were days of little fasting and much son, Felipe II, to know its most memorable celebration, of which the town maintains an times of splendor. active memory: Longing...

The "village" finally became a town. Its streets were full of artists and craftsmen,

Wars That Brought Peace

waters were strong and the hunger so great that the people could no longer suffer it. We were forced to lift the siege..." "...Ciudad Rodrigo, its great past proved, Soon after, not as a result of force, but by the art of diplomacy, on three pillars stands: the town came to form part of the faithful at his side. In reward, ancient, noble and true..." and as a warning, this fortress was built looking towards Anonymous Portuguese territory. This was 1372 and the records state that: "This fortress was built by order of the very noble King Enrique, V isitors do not need to use their imagination. This palace, son of the very noble King Alfonso who defeated King Benamarín when it was a castle, was created for war. It has seen with all the power of Africa and won Algesira..." violent and turbulent times over the centuries, times scattered with wounds and drowned in conspiracies, and peace treaties signed with In the early 16th century, the fortress was renovated for the first scars and confusion. These halls and these rooms also knew times of time, though no luxuries were added. The author Amadis of Greece courtesans and ambition. The people of the town lived more days of wrote of it: "It is now one of the good houses in the kingdom...it is not Carnival than they did the Ora et Labora required to maintain the sumptuous or beautiful, but well designed for defense...." body and save the soul. This and much more has happened within the walls of the Parador, now an island of rest and peaceful Once the town's early whims were overcome, it learned how to enjoyment for travelers. support the Imperial cause during the unsuccessful revolts of the Comuneros. It all started around the middle of the 12th century, when Fernando II decided to move Christian The Parador building was used as a men and women here to form a town watchtower during the wars against the within the walls that he ordered built. Portuguese and the French until it was finally released as recently as 1928, when It was then a fortress, which was built the War Ministry donated this heroic on the wise decision of Enrique II of building to more civilized uses, converting Trastamara during his wars against it into a regional museum, with an attempt Pedro I, from which he emerged at turning part of it into a hotel. victorious and was then crowned King of Castile and León. King Enrique wanted The original construction of the to control peasants, who were in building as it is today is recognized to constant rebellion. He besieged them, have been the result of the bold iniciatives but with unexpected results: "...the of Manuel Sánchez Arjona, known as "The

2 CIUDAD RODRIGO AND ITS PARADOR Good Mayor", whose actions would become And so the Good Mayor went down in a well-known saga. The councilor thought history as the pioneer of quality tourism in that accommodation could be offered in the the form of what is now called Paradores. castle, at no great expense, to attract tourists The rest was of less importance. The to Ciudad Rodrigo from among the many opening was a celebration with drums, travelers on the road from Paris to Lisbon. cymbals and well-deserved blessings, on 2 October 1929. The menu, for 12 pesetas His innumerable visits to sort out the (not including wine), was cold or hot bureaucracy of the dictatorship of the time consommé, Tournedos Enrique II, sole fillets could not extinguish the desire and with Hollandaise sauce, roast partridge, motivation of the intrepid Mayor. He salad, bananas, fruit, cheese and Moka finally went to the President of the Council coffee. of Ministers, General Primo de Rivera himself. In his own words, he recounts: "I visited him in his office and asked for his moral support and influence to build a hotel for tourists here. The General agreed, but I insisted until he assured me of his unconditional support..."

Ancient and Loyal

1. Cathedral. 2. Episcopal Palace. 11 3. Covent of San Agustín. 10 1 4. The Vázquez Family House (Now the Post Office). 12 13 5. Former Convent of La Franciscanas Descalzas. 8 6. Old Bridge. 14 9 7. Town Hall. 7 8. Chapel of the Venerable Orden Tercera. 4 5 9. House of the 1st Marquis of . 10. Palace of the Count of . 2 3 11. Palace of the Castros. 12. House of the Moctezumas. 13. Chapel of the Marquis of Cerralbo. 14. Old Prison.

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CIUDAD RODRIGO AND ITS PARADOR 3 Noble and Borrowed Broth made with sheep sweetbreads and other ingredients; Stews and Zorongollo (dish of roasted red peppers and onions) from Dishes the Béjar Sierra; and Seasoned Goat and Roast Suckling Pig. The Parador's menu is abundant, W hen the Good Mayor embarked on wide ranging and ever-changing. It the adventure of installing a often has dishes that appear very Parador here, his aim was to get the best simple, but require great care and out of everything Cuidad Rodrigo and the experience to prepare. The secret lies surrounding region could offer, to take in advantage of this attractive and strategic knowing just how much of each island to make it a convenient resting point ingredient to use to get the right with an excellent restaurant. His wishes flavor. Marinated Potatoes immediately became reality. In 1954, in this Coated in Breadcrumbs and or a similar dinning room the historic Fried, with a vinegar sauce. Migas political and military pact between (fried breadcrumbs) made with and Portugal was signed by the President of farniato pork sausage and other the neighboring nation and the ingredients. Wild Rabbit Stew Generalísimo of Spain. Franco was such a made following the recipe from the frequent guest that he was usually given the nearby town of . same room, which today is Room 129. Shoulder of Lamb with a variety of fillings. Tench Fish Seasoned Many famous people have stayed here with Paprika, fished from the local over the years. Bullfighters, monarchs, ponds. politicians, military figures and writers, such as Angel Peralta, Juan de Borbón, There is a wide range of game Juan Benet, Torrente Ballester, and available in the area, such as wild Fernando Arrabal, and the King and Queen of Spain before they were boar, hare and some partridge. Or, simply, Iberian Pork crowned. It is quite possible for visitors to find themselves sharing a Tenderloin served with a sauce made from local bee pollen. portion of "pata negra" ham with some of the famous people who live in the area: Julio Robles or El Viti, the Count of Montarco, the Desserts are often soaked in honey. There are also Custards, Duchess of Alba... Sweet Soups, Repelaos, Perronillas, and Bollo Maimon. Exceptional Goat's Milk Cheeses can be tasted, as well as the The Parador serves cuisine typical of the region, although it typical Mogarráz Wine, which is essential to accompany the local reflects the peculiarities of the town and the Fortress's own recipes. Farinato pork sausage, made only in Ciudad Rodrigo.

The gastronomic profile of the surrounding area is made up of dishes such as Minced, Lean Pork; Ragout of Rice with

The Rugged “Charra” lands of Salamanca

ell-traveled visitors will always find pleasant surprises W around Ciudad Rodrigo. On its roads one will always encounter the unexpected: perhaps little-known arts and crafts or delightful local fare, or a spot that has escaped the tourist guides.

Las Arribes Route

Ciudad Rodrigo, San Felices, , Hinojosa del Duero, , , Aldeadávila, Pereña

San Felices de los Gallegos. The town center maintains its medieval charm: old houses with noble facades. The most characteristic feature is the medieval castle with its magnificent tower built by order of Beatriz, Princesses of Portugal.

Lumbrales. One of its curiosities is the "Burro de la

4 CIUDAD RODRIGO AND ITS PARADOR Barrera" next to the church, as the Iberian boar is called. It is evidence of . Arts and crafts can be found in this village, including the Vettons who frequented this land to the west of the Tormes. excellent saddlebags and hand-woven baskets. Pereña. The spot most visited by tourists here is the Shrine of La Hinojosa del Duero. Good, solid mansions can be found here. Virgin del Castillo, some 3 kilometers away. Walkers will not be The most important are the "Casa de la disappointed if they make the trip. Cirica" and "El Portalillo." The top of the hill, where we now see an image of the On the way back, a visit to Mieza or Sacred Heart and a romantic 13th century is recommended. These shrine, was long ago the site of Hinojosa are the largest reserves of wolfram and castle. chelite in Spain.

Saucelle: A quiet village on the plateau Peña de Francia Route between the waters of the Huebra and the Duero Rivers. Its surroundings offer such Ciudad Rodrigo, , Peña de magnificent views that it was given the Francia, name "Ocellun Cattonun" or "Eyes of the Vettons”, and a breathtaking El Cabaco. At an altitude of 900 meters panorama of Las Arribes. and of great interest. Some three kilometers away on the road to La Alberca, there is a Vilvestre. Some of the monuments attest signpost to the right indicating La Peña de to its period of grandeur in the 16th Francia. It is uphill from here, through century, when Ruiz Gómez de Silva, Prince flowers and trees until we reach Fuente de of Éboli, ruled the town. Apart from being Simón Vela. At the top one can find a married to a very beautiful woman, he was magnificent viewpoint. The Peña forms a able to hold Felipe II in check. lookout point from which one can see as far as the distant horizon.

Aldeadávila de la Ribera. This is the heart of Las Arribes, a La Alberca. After so much natural beauty, we recommend a visit unique village located on the side of a north-facing hill surrounded by to one of Castile's most typical villages. A stroll through the streets vineyards, and with a view of several Portuguese villages in the and its Plaza Mayor will round off a pleasant day's excursion. You background. Aldeadávila, and all of Las Arribes, Villarino, Pereña may even hear the ringing bells of the toque de las Ánimas, a and Masueco, produce good wines. The lowlands around the Duero sound said to bewitch the dusk. have a microclimate that protects the crops.

Parador de Ciudad Rodrigo Enrique II Plaza Castillo, 1. 37500 Ciudad Rodrigo (Salamanca) Tel.: +34 923 46 01 50 - Fax: +34 923 46 04 04 email: [email protected] Reservation Center Requena, 3. 28013 Madrid (España) Tel.: 902 54 79 79 - Fax: 902 52 54 32 www.parador.es / email: [email protected] wap.parador.es/wap/

Text: Miguel García Sánchez Design: Fernando Aznar

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