BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA 2020-21

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The Premijer liga of Bosnia-Herzegovina is more than just the top division in one of Europe’s youngest nations. Comprising INTRO 12 teams, the so-called Liga 12, unified in 2002 and still in place two decades later, allows the top clubs from Bosnia, Herzegovina and Republika Srpska to compete with each other over the course of a season. While so much of Bosnia’s creaking post-war infrastructure is divided along ethnic lines, this one body remains intact.

Exclusion from Europe encouraged opposing football authorities to Welcome to liberoguide.com! open up the top tier 20 years ago. The digital travel guide for Competing in the Europa League in football fans, liberoguide.com 2020-21, Željezničar, Zrinjski Mostar is the most up-to-date resource, and Borac Banja Luka have very city-by-city, club-by-club, to the different followings but fulfil domestic game across Europe and North fixtures with each other, something America. Using only original that would have been unthinkable in photos and first-hand research, the 1990s. Foreign-backed champions taken and undertaken over seven FK Sarajevo now attract the highest seasons, liberoguide.com has league gates to the country’s national been put together to enhance stadium of Koševo. These four clubs every football weekend and Euro have claimed all but two titles since night experience. From airport that watershed year of 2002. Below to arena, downtown sports bar the top flight, the lower divisions to hotel, liberoguide.com helps break down according to regional, and you get the best out of your visit therefore ethnic, lines. to football’s furthest corners and between the two sides symbolised the showcase stadiums. unity of Yugoslavia, its destruction the BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA 2020-21 Bosnia-Herzegovina consists of two collapse of the country into separate CONTENTS entities, the ten-canton Federation parts. It was rebuilt and reopened in 13 Radnik Bijeljina 22 Široki Brijeg of Bosnia & Herzegovina (FBiH), Sarajevo is the national capital of 2004. Given this complex scenario, 1-3 INTRO 4-6 Sarajevo 14 Doboj/Kakanj 23 NK Široki Brijeg and the mainly Serb Republika Bosnia-Herzegovina, Banja Luka the therefore, the fact that the Premijer liga 7 FK Sarajevo 15 FK Mladost 24 Tuzla Srpska (RS). Bosniaks are in the de facto capital of Republika Srpska. exists at all is not insignificant. 8 Olimpik 16 Krupa na Vrbasu 25 Tušanj Gradski majority in the inland cantons around The largest city in Herzegovina, Mostar, 9 Željezničar 17 FK Krupa Stadion Sarajevo and Tuzla, Croats in areas is roughly divided 50/50 between Then there’s the national side, Zmajevi, 10 Banja Luka 18-19 Mostar 26 Sloboda Tuzla of Herzegovina. RS has no national Bosniaks and Croats, Velež the main the Dragons. Only 20 years after a 11 Borac Banja Luka 20 Velež Mostar 27 Tuzla City team as such – the best players club on one side of the Neretva river, fledging Bosnia team were playing 12 Bijeljina 21 Zrinjski Mostar usually opt to play for Serbia. Zrinjski on the other. The old bridge humanitarian friendlies in borrowed

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Bijeljina Sarajevo-based Centrotrans

(centrotrans.com) link most towns. INTRO Sarajevo to Mostar takes 2hrs 30mins and costs 20KM/€10. Tuzla BANJA LUKA BIJELJINA (23KM/€11.50) is just over 3hrs. Buying a return with the same company KRUPA NA TUZLA knocks at least 30% off the price VRBASU and you pay around 2KM/€1 to store luggage in the hold. Vehicles are often pretty old and few have toilets. Bus stations are usually located in city centres. There are also regular shirts, supporters’ buses trundled a services from Zagreb and Belgrade thousand-plus kilometres to Kaunas, – see Autobusni Kolodvor (autobusni- Lithuania, to witness Bosnia’s DOBOJ/KAKANJ kolodvor.com/en/sarajevo_16_173. emotional qualification for the 2014 aspx) for details. The one main train World Cup. The following summer line (zfbh.ba/en), between Sarajevo and at the Maracanã, Bosnia were 1-0 Mostar, is infrequent and underused. down to Messi’s Argentina after only two minutes thanks to an own goal. SARAJEVO Bosnia’s only motorway, the A1, With TV millions willing them on, currently runs from Sarajevo as far the underdogs roared back, almost north as Zenica, and south to Ovčari. reversing the scoreline in a heroic For details of tolls, see JP Autoceste ŠIROKI performance that transcended history BRIJEG MOSTAR (jpautoceste.ba/en/electronic-access- and ethnicity. Sometimes, 90 minutes road-acc/). All other roads are single- of football can do that. lane and arduous. Most petrol stations accept credit cards but always take a Station to stadium spare can. Do not park up and wander Bosnia-Herzegovina is non-EU but its off into the countryside in case of citizens may enter visa-free for up to mines. 90 days. The currency is the convertible mark (KM), its rate set at 2KM/€1. Tables & trophies The 12 clubs of the Premijer liga play Bosnia currently has no national (airserbia.com) providing direct links Public transport in bigger cities is – look out for warning signs and stick to each other home and away, then once airline. Hungarian budget carrier Wizz with Vienna, Zagreb and Belgrade. generally cheap and reliable, taxis or marked trails. more at either ground, for a total of Air (wizzair.com) offers the most flights Wizz Air also flies to Tuzla, Ryanair walking the best option in smaller town 33 games. The title-winners enter the to Sarajevo, with Austrian Airlines (ryanair.com) to Banja Luka. The major centres. Note that it will still be a few Buses connect Bosnia. Major Champions League First Qualifying (austrian.com), Croatia Airlines air hub of Split in Croatia has regular years before all land mines scattered companies such as Mostar-based Round, runners-up and third-placed (croatiaairlines.com) and Air Serbia bus services to Mostar (3hrs 30mins). around the countryside are cleared Autoprevoz (autoprevoz.ba) and finishers the same stage of the

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Europa Conference League. The bottom two clubs drop down to the second- INTRO tier Prva liga, which has two separate divisions of 16 teams each, one for the Federation of Bosnia-Herzegovina, one for the Republika Srpska. After a season of 30 games, home and away, the champions of each are promoted to the Premijer. Usually four teams go down, but adjustments may be needed according to who has been relegated from the Premijer. Shankly’s/Mostar The third-tier Druga liga for FBiH is divided into four regional divisions, Centre, North, South and West, usually of 16 teams, with the champions promoted. The number of clubs relegated depends on the cantonal divisions below, Sarajevo, Tuzla, West Herzogovina, and so on. Some have two lower tiers. The RS Druga liga Borac Banja Luka comprises four regional divisions, broken down into seven smaller regions below, Banja Luka, Prijedor etc, then semi-finals and final are played over 5.30pm, 7pm 8pm or 8.30pm, then place on a Saturday, around the same 5KM/€2.50 is the norm, or a range of Intermunicipal leagues below that. two legs, in April and May. The winners around 4.30pm in mid-September, time, 5.30pm/6pm in summer, then 4KM-8KM/€2-€4 at a bigger stadium enter the First Qualifying Round of the 3.30pm in early October, 2.30pm in late early afternoon towards winter. such as Koševo. If there is more than Each football authority, FBiH and RS, Europa Conference League. October, 1.30pm in November and 1pm one stand, it will be designated as either has its own cup, that feeds into the in December, games being gradually Entry level Tribina Sjever (North), Jug (South), Istok national Kup Bosne I Hercegovine, Season’s dealings scheduled later through spring. Clubs Stadiums range from the arena that (East) and Zapad (West). On your ticket the Bosnia-Herzogovina Football The Premijer liga starts on the third at better-equipped grounds, most staged an Olympic opening ceremony for international matches, ulaz is the Cup. This starts with the 1/16 finals week of July, runs until the first week notably FK Sarajevo at Koševo, can in Sarajevo to the basic, one-stand gate, sektor the sector, red the row and in September, involving 12 Premijer of December, starts up again the third be more flexible in terms of timing. ground at Krupa na Vrbasu. Average sjedište your seat. Cijena is the price. teams, plus 12 from B-H and eight week of February and, with no play- The last three rounds all take place at attendances are below 2,000, that figure Most grounds have a bar attached, also from RS. Ties are settled on one offs, goes on until late May. Six games 5pm on the Saturday. The Prva liga for buoyed by gates of around 4,000 at open during the week. The grilled meat match, home advantage granted to are scheduled each round, usually both the FBiH and RS start later, the Sarajevo’s main two clubs. A kiosk by in Bosnia is said to be the best in the the lower club. The 1/8 finals come in four on a Saturday, two on a Sunday, second week of August, run until mid- the main gate will be marked Prodaja Balkans – if there’s also a ćevapdžinica, October – with no home advantage – with occasional matches on a Friday November, start up in early March then Ulaznice (Ticket Sales), Продаја карата such as at Željezničar, carnivores then the quarter-finals in March. The or Monday. Summer kick-offs are finish in early May. Most rounds take in RS. An across-the-board price of shouldn’t miss out.

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City Pub BUDAPEST

in 2020. While Koševo is considered in the region, Slavia Prague were the national stadium, a role shared used as the shining example of a with Bilino Polje in Zenica, the 2018 football club independent from renovation of Željezničar’s Grbavica Vienna – although the Đački sportski has seen it used for international klub (ĐSK) persuaded a young Rapid games since, however – such as for Vienna defender, Karl Harmer, to Bosnia’s 2-0 win over Northern Ireland come and coach them. Playing in the that same year in the Nations League. red and white of Slavia, ĐSK beat a Viennese military XI in their first Football came to Sarajevo with the match in 1911. Most team members Sarajevo had memorably staged the that same campaign, while third- Habsburgs, as they industrialised the were of Serbian origin. Sarajevo Winter Olympics only a few years placed Partizan Belgrade had not long city in the late 1800s, bringing trains before. The opening ceremony took beaten Bobby Charlton’s Manchester and trams. Hotels were built, including Shortly afterwards, local Croats The city known for the shot and the place at the Koševo City Stadium, also United to set up a closely fought the Evropa, with its Viennese-style formed Hrvatski ŠK, renamed Sarajevo siege linked with major conflicts referred to as the Asim Ferhatović- European Cup final with Real Madrid. café, a meeting place for the sports amaterski športski klub (SAŠK) at either end of the 20th century, Hase Stadium after the revered This was a very strong Yugoslav league societies that were also springing after World War I. ĐSK became the Sarajevo cannot fail to move anyone striker who played for host club FK – and won by a team from Sarajevo. up. In 1908, local students, including Srpski sportski klub (SSK) and set who visits it. Although gleaming Sarajevo. After nearly two decades the son of the hotel owner, brought a up a modest ground in the area of towers and growing tourism now for the Bordo-bijeli, the Maroon and Eternal city rivals Željezničar, ‘Željo’, football back from Zagreb. Koševo. It was destroyed as anti-Serb characterise the modern-day capital Whites, ‘Hase’ led his club to their also won the Yugoslav title in 1972. feeling swept Sarajevo following the of Bosnia-Herzegovina, scars remain first Yugoslav title in his retirement Since 1998, two Sarajevo giants have The boys played on fields in Cengić assassination of Archduke Ferdinand of the four-year bombardment of the season of 1966-67. Narrow runners-up claimed 11 Bosnian championship Vila, just over the narrow Miljacka in 1914. When Sarajevo became part of city in the 1990s. Dinamo Zagreb won a European trophy between them, the most recent FK’s river from Grbavica. As elsewhere Yugoslavia after 1919, SSK became

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Slavija and built another ground in the BUDAPEST district of Marijin dvor. Renamed Šesti april after 1945, this was the main football ground in town until it was knocked down when Grbavica was built with its stands and benches. Željezničar also played at Šesti april, as did SD Torpedo, forerunners of FK Sarajevo. Željezničar had been founded as a railway workers’ team in 1921. Working-class and ethnically mixed, they would trail the Croats of SAŠK and the Serbians of Slavija, the main city rivalry between the wars. Both competed in the top Yugoslav League, bus. Sarajevo bus station is on put each achieving a runners-up spot. Života by the train terminal, near the city centre. The bus from Belgrade During World War II, Slavija played in (7hrs) arrives at Istočno Sarajevo, a separate Serbian league, SAŠK a in the Serbian part of town near the Croat one, linked to the Nazi puppet airport, a 20KM/€10 taxi journey to state. The incoming Communist the centre. authorities closed down SAŠK, later reformed in 1999 as SAŠK Napredak. City transport run by Gras Today they compete in the Bosnia- consists of trams, buses and Herzegovina’s Druga liga, the third trolleybuses. Tickets (1.60KM/€0.80 tier. Once successful Slavija were local clubs Udarnik and Sloboda. Soon around it suffered significant damage Wolves after the event mascot Vučko. or 3KM/€1.50 for 2 journeys, day pass/ also disbanded in 1945 and reformed renamed SDM Sarajevo, then FK, the during the Siege. Koševo is surrounded Built and opened during the Siege, dnevna 5.30KM/€2.65) are available in the 1990s. League runners-up in new club attracted the best players in by cemeteries. Somehow both clubs the Otoka Stadium stands just over the from newsstands or pay 2KM/€1 for 1 2009, the Falcons competed in the the city. Željo were soon overshadowed managed to compete in the inaugural Miljacka from the Bosnian FA offices. journey on board. The historic centre Europa League that same year. Slavija by FK, losing 6-1 in the first league league of 1994-95, playing out a 1-1 is walkable but you’ll need public are currently in the RS First League, Vječiti derbi in 1954. Well-situated draw in Zenica, before the first derby at Bearings transport or a taxi for either main playing at the Gradski Stadion in the Bosniaks supported FK, working-class Koševo in November 1995. Six months Sarajevo Airport is 8km (five stadium, Koševo way north of the city Serbian Istočno part of town towards locals on Sarajevo’s south side, Željo. later, 20,000 gathered for derby day at miles) south-west of the city. A bus centre up steep Alipašina, Grbavica on the airport. Later, Horde Zla ultras followed FK, the a rebuilt Grbavica. (5KM/€2.50, pay on board) runs the south bank just over the river. If Manijaci Željo. Derby day became a riot to Baščaršija in the city centre every you’re after a few football souvenirs, With SAŠK and Slavija out of the of colour. Promoted to the Premijer in 2020, hour or so. A Sarajevo Taxi (+387 33 old-school tracksuit tops bearing picture in 1946, FK Sarajevo were Olimpik were formed during the 660 666) from Terminal B to the city the logos of either club, head for the formed as SD Torpedo, in honour of With Grbavica on the front line, the conflict in 1993, their name taken from centre should cost about 30KM/€15. stalls near Baščaršija Mosque in the their Muscovite counterparts, from stadium and the residential blocks the 1984 Games, their nickname The Most overland transport links are by old quarter.

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Tesla Pub

great inventor – he’s the guy outside waiting for his next light-bulb moment. Football also shown. There’s also live music at the friendly Celtic Pub on Ferhadija, as well as match screenings and all kinds of whiskies. Nearby, the Guinness Pub suffers by comparison but its terrace offers welcome respite from the summer sun. Also close, the Sarajevsko Pub on Koturova is a great little spot for combining the city’s Sarajevska Pivara Bed restaurant. The young footballers who 12 rooms and a modest sauna. Also namesake beer with a burger and Visit Sarajevo (visitsarajevo.ba) has gathered at the café in the early 1900s overlooking the Miljacka but the other some match-watching. The terrace a database of accommodation. There would never have known such luxury. side the Latin Bridge, the gleaming new Hungarian Empire, no idle boast. Today overlooks the Sacred Heart Cathedral. are no hotels in the immediate vicinity Also on central Zelenih beretki, under business-oriented President comprises you can visit its museum and sample By the Eternal Flame, the contemporary of either stadium although the sleek the same umbrella, the Hotel Astra 72 air-conditioned rooms. Close by, the goods in the tavern, a ten-minute Brew Imperial Society attracts a crowd Novotel Bristol is near the bridge that offers upper mid-range comfort, with the homely Pansion Sebilj has modest walk from the Latin Bridge on the south with its sought-after beers, regular leads to Grbavica. A pool, gym, café a decent restaurant, too. Guests may rooms at €20, near the market, with a side of the river. The main bar hub is live entertainment and parties. On the and restaurant all feature. Sarajevo’s use the pool and spa at the Europe. riverside café. on the north bank. Here, opposite the other side of town, by the old market of historic centre is filled with lodging Another classy choice round the corner Hotel Europe, the City Pub has long Baščaršija, the Ćevabdžinica Željo on options at both ends of the scale. The on Ćumurija, the Central features a Beer been a major meeting place, with all Kundurdžiluk is named after the most venerable hotel in the city is 25-metre pool, day spa and top-notch The hallowed local beer, Sarajevsko kinds of live music, TV football, outdoor football club – note the blue badge. Europe, previously the Evropa, built in gym. The restaurant is also excellent. pivo, saved the city during the Siege. seating and lashings of Sarajevsko Top-notch ćevapi, meat rissoles in 1882 and still containing a Viennese Closer to the river on Despića, the Opal Founded as far back as 1864, this was pivo. Almost next door, the Tesla blankets of flat bread, come with plenty coffeehouse – as well as a pool, spa and Home is a contemporary four-star of the largest brewery in the Austro- Pub is named and themed after the of Sarajevsko pivo.

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FK Sarajevo FK SARAJEVO

Five-time Bosnian champions, twice champions of Yugoslavia, FK Sarajevo (fksarajevo.ba) are owned by entrepreneurs from the Far East who see potential in this club founded in the immediate aftermath of World War II. Eternal rivals of working- class railway team Željezničar, the Bordo-bijeli, the Maroon-and-Whites, always attracted the better connected members of Sarajevo society. Based at Koševo, the Olympic Stadium and VIP on the west side, Tribina that staged the opening ceremony Zapad. Current capacity is 34,500. of the 1984 Winter Games, the club now trains at a complex financed by Transport Vincent Tan, the Malaysian owner of Koševo is between two steep main Cardiff City with a 30% stake in FKS. roads, Patriotske lige and Alipašina, Back-to-back titles in 2019 and 2020 north of town. Bus No.20 runs up reflect this unprecedented investment Patriotske lige to the Stadion Koševo in Bosnian football. stop on the east side, bus Nos.12A, 14A, 15A and 16A to the Stadion Opened in 1947, Koševo has long been Koševo stop on the west side and For domestic fixtures, you’ll pay Bars Bosnia’s national stadium, hosting south, away end. around 3KM-4KM/€1.50-€2 for the Between Patriotske lige and the main major events such as the post-war Tribina Sjever, 8KM/€4 for the Tribina entrance to the stadium, the Restoran U2 concert of 1997 and the visit of A taxi from town would only be around Istok and €12/€6 for the Tribina Stadion is the ideal spot pre-match, a Pope that same year. Some 70,000 6KM/€3. Zapad. friendly local bar/restaurant with the gathered for Bono and John Paul II, scarves and shirts of visiting fans – 38,000 for Željezničar’s game with Tickets Shops Hearts, Feyenoord, Valencia – hanging Alan Shearer’s Newcastle in 2002. Advance tickets are distributed The main club shop is in town at in a goal net dividing the bar area For Sarajevo games, the Horde Zla through KupiKartu outlets such as Maršala Tita 38B, with another outlet from the dining tables. Seats are also generate noise and colour in the north exchange offices in town or travel in the Gazi Husrev-begova retail set up outside. Also on this side of the end, the Tribina Sjever. Depending on agencies such as Kompas at Maršala hub Bezistan by the Hotel Europe. stadium, on the main road, the Caffe numbers, away fans are given most Tita 8. On match days, buy tickets You can also find Sarajevo and Bar Dundee at Patriotske lige 29 is a up Patriotske lige from town, halfway of the south end, the Tribina Jug (B1- from the kiosks on the concourse as Željezničar tracksuit tops and comfortable shisha bar with football up, the Restoran Maksumić at No.20 B4). Older Sarajevo fans sit on the you walk down from Patriotske lige to shirts at the stalls near Baščaršija shown and coffee, soft and energy is a classic Bosnian grill restaurant east side in the Tribina Istok, press the stadium. Mosque in the old quarter. drinks also served. If you’re walking with beer served.

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their European debut against Spartak Baščaršija and main stops in town, Trnava. After taking an early lead, calling at Univerzitet, where the No.4 the Bosnians bowed to the greater from the railway station and the No.6 experience of the Slovaks, who notched from Skenderija also stop. Allow 15- an away goal, then held on for a 0-0 20mins from the centre. draw at home. Though relegated the following season, Olimpik, as they had Tickets been re-renamed, could rely on the Admission is 5KM/€2.50 from the kiosk goals of Adnan Osmanović to help them on match days, cash-only. Availability climb out of the second tier – eventually. isn’t an issue – even derbies against city Promoted in 2020, Vukovi are currently rivals FK Sarajevo and Željezničar don’t Olimpik Named after the event that showcased in 2000 coincided with the inaugural captained by this former Bosnian youth sell out. a positive, welcoming Sarajevo to the Premijer liga, but Olimpik only got a international, still in his early twenties. Football in Sarajevo may have long world a decade before, the Winter foothold on the top flight a decade later. Bars been characterised by the eternal Olympics of 1984, Olimpik even took Home is the Otoka Stadium, in the leafy Considering the Bosnian FA offices are rivalry between record champions their nickname from Games mascot Finishing two points off a European district of the same name halfway to almost next door, there are few drinking FK and Željo but there’s another club Vučko, a friendly wolf. Vukovi, the place in 2011 and 2012, the Wolves the airport. A half-moon of open seating options nearby. In the Vistafon sport close to the heart of the city: Olimpik Wolves, started out with indoor futsal won the cup in 2015, after narrow along one sideline comprises the 3,000 centre between the stadium and the (olimpik.ba). The club was formed by matches then took part in the inaugural penalty wins over Zrinjski Mostar in capacity. Away fans enter through gate main road, the Restoran Boston serves six friends at the height of the Siege First League of Bosnia & Herzegovina the semi-final and Široki Brijeg in A behind the main stand. standard food and drinks in smart if in 1993, the same year that shells in Tuzla a year later, winning two out the two-game final, the second leg bland surroundings. In a modern retail were aimed at a pick-up football game of four games. As Sarajevo slowly staged at the national Koševo Stadium Transport centre behind Istiqlal Mosque, both the between the tower blocks in Dobrinja, emerged from war, a two-division in Sarajevo. At the same location just The stadium is behind the Olympic Pizzeria AME and Morisco Café have near Sarajevo Airport, killing players league system operated, Olimpik over a month later, Olimpic, as they swimming pool, alongside Alipašin TVs and tables outside for convivial pre- and onlookers. bouncing between the two. Promotion had been temporarily renamed, made most. Tram Nos.3 and 5 run from match drinking.

liberoguide.com 8 BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA 2020-21 Željezničar www.liberoguide.com/zeljeznicar ŽELJEZNIČAR

Željezničar Arrive early for the derby or try the If there’s one Bosnian club most modern, well-stocked Željo Shop know but few can pronounce, it’s (Mon-Fri 9.30am-5.30pm, Sat 9.30am- Željezničar (fkzeljeznicar.ba). A 2.30pm, match days) a couple of days familiar name in Europe since the beforehand. Blue is the colour, with early 1970s, ‘Railway Worker’, aka white the second-choice top. ‘Željo’, were founded in 1921, often broke and homeless, using pitches Bars across Sarajevo. Sited in the area of Bars, cafés and ćevaperies serving the same name when Communist grilled meat ring the Grbavica. Two authorities were developing south streets over on trg heroja, the Union of the river in the early 1950s, the Jack has pool tables inside and TV Grbavica Stadium is where Željo came the Bosnian War as the leading clubs. Željo ultras, the Manijaci, occupy the Northern Ireland among the visitors. sport on the terrace. Also popular within minutes of a European final in Grbavica was right on the front line, open south goal, Južna tribina, by the Capacity is 13,000. pre-match, homely LoLeMi on Topal 1985, a late away goal from Videoton the stadium and tower blocks around it scoreboard and behind a half-moon Osman-paše provides a decent choice granting the Hungarians a glamorous significantly damaged. of old terracing. When FK Sarajevo Transport of beers. Directly opposite the ground mismatch against eventual UEFA Cup visit, the Horde Zla are segregated in Five trolleybuses stop at Stadion on Zvornička, smarter terrace café winners Real Madrid. Other prestigious The last decade has seen the clubs the east corner of the North Stand, Grbavica (and Grbavica, further away): Macchiato has TV sport. On the stadium fixtures, against Brian Clough’s Derby finish 1 and 2 or 2 and 3 in the Premijer Sjeverna tribina, nearest Zvornička. Nos.102 and 107 via Skenderija, also side, old-school Plavi now operates County and Bobby Robson’s Newcastle, liga six times. Currently Željo have six Older Željo fans usually fill out the calling at Koševo Stadion, and Nos.102, as a pizzeria – for grilled meat, head were played before bigger crowds Bosnian titles to wealthier Sarajevo’s rest of this end. The newer East 103 and 104 from Trg Austrije on this to Derbi right behind the North Stand. at the national Koševo Stadium, five, financial backing sure to redress Stand opened in 2017 was funded by south side of the river. Alongside, the Bosanski Burek serves home of city rivals FK Sarajevo. The the balance. Željo have the stronger contributions, including Edin Džeko’s. that Balkan flaky pastry best prepared Vječiti derbi between them defines academy, however, the most notable These recent improvements have Tickets & shop in Bosnia. Carnivores can also patronise Bosnian football. Both won a strong example being later Manchester City allowed international matches to Buy your KM5/€2.50 ticket before kick- the Fast Food Flesh or Gostionica Yugoslav league, then emerged from star Edin Džeko – sold for €25,000. return to the Grbavica, Belgium and off from the blue kiosks on Zvornička. Stadion, both nearby.

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Nikole Kostića, 200 metres from LUKA BANJA the train station, 1.5km from the Gradski stadion towards the centre. City buses cover town, pay the driver 1.60KM/€0.80.

Bed Banja Luka Tourism (banjaluka- tourism.com) has a database of hotels. The nearest to the stadium, the contemporary Courtyard by Marriott on Prvog krajlškog korpusa, offers airport transfers. Further into town by the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, the landmark Hotel Bosna dates back to 1885, its retro look the Banja Luka result of a 1970s’ rebuild. Nearby on Srpska, the Talija has a top-floor Capital of the Republika Srpska, pool while the Vidović on Ivana Franja Banja Luka is home to Borac, founded Jukića is a bright, mid-range option. by left-leaning locals in 1926. The Premijer liga champions of 2011, Beer however, have not always been the Bar-lined Braće Mažar i majke Marije top team in town. Before 1945, SK is where you find the Peckham Pub Krajišnik, named after this ethnically offering many beers, fairytale-inspired mixed region of Krajina, were the a separate league since set up for Smiljić shuttle bus runs to Stara Bajka with its pretty courtyard and most prominent club. In 1935-36, the Republika Srpska, Borac have autobuska stanica (10KM/€5, 30min the Mala Pivnica, aka the Dublin Pub, they made the quarter-finals of the won it a record five times, four as journey time), the old bus station again with scores of beer choices. Yugoslav Championship. A year later, second-tier champions. The last time that’s an open car park on main the Gradski stadion was unveiled, Half a century later, war again was in 2019, when local railway club Vidovdanska behind the Museum of Attached to the Hotel Bosna, Debela ostensibly built for Krajišnik, with swept across Krajina. With the Željezničar finished third, playing Contemporary Art. A Banjalučki taxi Berta provides a decent match- national champions BSK Belgrade conflict raging in December 1992, at their little ground near the train (+387 51 232 310, banjaluckitaxi@ watching option. Close by, alongside invited for the curtain-raising game. the Gradski hosted a showcase station. One flight above, the better- gmail.com) should cost 35KM/€17.50. the Hotel Talija, the bizarrely-named The club’s links with Nazi-backed match between two representative known Željezničar from Sarajevo are Mac Tire Pub screens football action, war-time Croatia saw it disbanded in XIs, Republika Srpska and Srpska now Borac’s fiercest rivals. Two Centrotrans buses a day with food a major focus. Also near 1945, the Socialist credentials of Borac Krajina. Neither entity officially run from Sarajevo 229km (142 the Hotel Bosna, the City Pub is a bringing them to the fore. Krajišnik’s existed at the time but their presence Bearings miles) away, journey time 5hrs live venue and a showcase for craft main rivals, student team Đački SK on a football pitch proved a morale Underused Banja Luka Airport is (35KM/€17.50). The main inter-city Gorštak beers from nearby Glamočani Balkan, also vanished without trace. boost for Belgrade’s ambitions. With 23km (14 miles) north of town. A bus station is north of town on Prote Laktaši.

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Transport LUKA BANJA BORAC The stadium is a 10min taxi journey (6KM/€3) from the main bus or train stations, the walk a bit too far and tricky with a motorway in between. From the city, head up Kralja Petra i Karađorđevića from the Hotel Bosna or Cathedral, turning right at aleja Svetog Save, then left into Vladike Platona.

Tickets & shop The red-and-blue kiosks marked ПРОДАЈА КАРАTА sell tickets on match days, KM5/€2.50, cash only, availability only an issue for major games against Željezničar. Alongside, by the Garijeva Pivnica, a shop fronted by a huge Borac badge sells red-and-blue souvenirs.

Bars Locales line Vladike Platona right up to the club offices behind the West Stand, starting with the Club 180, then the Lotrek, both smart if somewhat bland. The Antico stadion witnessed the visitors from bar by a street now named after the Caffe shows TV football in a livelier Borac Banja Luka Sarajevo rescuing a late draw, before a club’s main founder and later Partisan atmosphere, similar to the Meteor. By packed Grbavica hosted a thrilling 2-2 martyr, Veselin Masleša. the West Stand, the Garijeva Pivnica Playing in the colours of the Serbian second leg. If ever there was an advert occasional challengers in Bosnia & is as good a stadium bar as you could flag,Borac Banja Luka (fkborac.net) are for cross-ethnic top-class football in While the Gradski stadion had been Herzegovina, Borac still echo great find, with plenty of TVs and a clientele the main club in the Republika Srpska, Bosnia & Herzegovina, this was it. built for Krajišnik, Borac’s Communist tradition, as conveyed by the Lešinari of twenty- and thirtysomethings and the last non-Sarajevo or non- credentials saw them favoured post- (‘Vultures’) ultras in the open East laying into local Nektar beer. Tables Mostar side to win the Premijer liga. Yet Borac haven’t always been Banja 1945, becoming the main team in Stand, the Istočna tribina alongside line the pavement outside to deal with The year before this 2011 title triumph, Luka’s flagship club – in fact, they were town. Long stints in the Yugoslav Gundulićeva. Opposite, the Zapadna the overspill. Drinks promotions and Crveno-plavi (‘the Red-and-Blues’) won formed in 1926 specifically to challenge top flight continued even after 1992, tribina is covered, while the Severna regular live music keep everything the Bosnia & Herzegovina Cup, the wealthier SK Krajišnik. If shop and Borac still basking in the glory of their tribina behind the north goal is a fairly still buzzing later on. Halfway along two-leg tussle with Željezničar ample factory owners ran the more successful shock cup win over Red Star Belgrade, recent addition, providing extra scope the stand, the large terrace at the proof of the lively rivalry between two rivals, their workers and employees Prosinečki, Piksi Stojković and all, in for allocating the away sector. Capacity Caffe Stadion gets equally busy, main cities. A full house at the Gradski formed Borac, convening at the Putnik 1988. Big fish in Republika Srpska, is an all-seated 9,700. Nektar also the beer of choice.

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Bijeljina BIJELJINA

In the far north-east corner of the country near the border between Republika Srpska and Serbia, Bijeljina is a sizeable city with a long football past. Winners of the Bosnian- Herzegovina Cup in 2016, Radnik (‘Worker’) Bijeljina were formed in the overnight transformation of Yugoslav football in 1945 under Tito. Along with Red Star Belgrade, Dinamo Zagreb and Partizan Belgrade, Spartaks and Slogas were set up around the country from smaller pre-war teams. One was Radnik Bijeljina. with a spa complex and restaurant in an 1892 landmark. Also close, on Previously, after World War I within Patrijarha Pavla, the Sico is sleek the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, local clubs and modern, while similarly and mid- Podrinje and Zora had competed in range Homa on Njegoševa features the second tier of the Serbian Football a popular café terrace. North of Championship in 1920-21, but the top town where Majevička meets Miloša sides from Belgrade were a league decade in the Bundesliga, this former is 195km (121 miles) away. A daily Obilića, the Motel Azzurro provides above in every way. The game here centre-back spent five years as club Centrotrans bus (30KM/€15) takes comfortable, affordable lodging. remained within the Sub-Association of chairman. Radnik became a regular 4hrs 15mins. Bijeljina bus station is Belgrade. in fixture in the Premijer liga, twice just east of town a 5-10min walk away, Beer competing in Europe and winning the stadium the same distance south- Terrace bars and cafés abound, Even after 1945, Radnik played in the the Republika Srpska Cup a record east. Public buses (1.50KM/€0.75) particularly on Nikole Tesle, the other Tuzla regional league, before joining the number of times. serve the surrounding area. Call Taxi side of City Park from the stadium. one for Novi Sad. The Gradski stadion, Bijeljina on +387 65 820 006 or +387 The best, beer-focused Majstor za opened south-east of town in 1954, only Bearings 65 648 516. Pivo, hosts DJ nights and shows hosted football at national level in the Tuzla Airport is the nearest to major sports events. The Shamrock 1970s when Radnik played six seasons Bijeljina 77km (48 miles) away. Tuzla Bed also has a big screen. Park is more in Yugoslavia’s Second League. When Taxi Airport (+387 61 830 830) has a The closest hotel to the stadium, the a pizzeria but serves Nektar beer the city actually produced a footballer It was another prominent Serbian flat fee of 20KM/€10 into town and Drina, is also the best in town. A four- from Banja Luka on the large terrace. of international class, later Aston Villa international, Mladen Krstajić, who 70KM/€35 to Bijeljina. Alternatively, star at Kneza Miloša/Karađorđeva Hemingway on Svetog Save and the striker Savo Milošević, he was off to steered Radnik in the right direction a daily Centrotrans bus from Tuzla near the bus station, it marries Garden Pub on Filipa Višnjića both Belgrade before his 15th birthday. in recent times. Returning after a (12KM/€6) takes 1hr 25mins. Sarajevo tradition with contemporary needs, come alive in summer.

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Radnik Bijeljina RADNIK

Over the last decade, only two clubs from Republika Srpska have appeared in Europe. One is Borac Banja Luka, the other, record RS Cup winners Radnik Bijeljina (facebook.com/ FKRadnikBijeljina). As it turned out, Radnik (‘Worker’) had to switch the home legs of their two Europa League campaigns to Banja Luka, their own Gradski stadion deemed unsuitable.

Current coach Darko Nestorović 5KM/€2.50, cash only, but for modest was responsible for gaining Radnik opposition you’ll probably just promotion in 2012. In his absence, wander in. Ask at the club offices while he was managing Bosnia’s about blue souvenirs – plus there’s national U-21 side and Al-Arabi in always kudos in a club badge in Kuwait, Radnik have been a consistent Cyrillic script with ‘1945’ on it. presence in the Premijer liga. They have also won the Republika Srpska Bars Cup four seasons running and picked On the stadium side of City Park, up the equivalent trophy in Bosnia- along Potporučnika Smajića, Četvoro Herzegovina, in 2016. Radnik conceded a late goal in Trnava main stand, partly covered, lined with (look out for the number 4 sign) is to level the aggregate. As extra-time seating in signature blue club colours. a homely little restaurant with an Two ex-internationals have been key beckoned, the ageing Đurić was Behind each goal and the opposite enclosed front terrace and a TV within. to this success: chairman Mladen substituted, his calming presence sideline is little but fields, the Close by, amid the greenery, parents Krstajić, who brought a decade of missing during a penalty shoot-out distinctive white outline of Rođenja tuck into gooey cake and ice cream at experience in the Bundesliga to circus of retaken spot kicks. With Presvete Bogodorice Orthodox Church smart, spacious Gradski Park while Bijeljina, and current team captain, Krstajić since headed for ambitious on the skyline to the north. Stadium the kids play on the slide, see-saw the veteran Velibor Đurić, who twice Bačka Topola in the Serbian league capacity is 6,000. and sports courts alongside. Friendly won the title with Zrinjski Mostar. and Đurić close to retirement, it may waitstaff also serve Jelen on draught be some time before Radnik get Transport and Franziskaner by the bottle, and Both were involved in Radnik’s two another chance in Europe. From the bus station, head straight there’s a TV over the bar. Just before European ties, defeats to Beroe Stara down Kneza Miloša past the Hotel Tickets & shop you get to the ground, at the corner Zagora in 2016-17 and Spartak Trnava Opened in 1954, the Gradski stadion Drina, keeping City Park to your left. With average gates in the hundreds, of Potporučnika Smajića and Kneza in 2019-20, when Đurić scored in the has been renovated in recent seasons On your right, Balkanska leads to the there’s little rush for tickets at Miloša, you’ll find grilled Balkan first leg. Taking a 2-0 lead to Slovakia, but still only comprises one modest stadium. Allow 7-8 minutes. Radnik Bijeljina. Admission is delights at Ćevabdžinica Gold.

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Bearings DOBOJ/KAKANJ Kakanj is 50km (31 miles) north of Sarajevo Airport. An hourly bus (9KM/€4.50) from the station in town takes 1hr 40min to reach Doboj (Kakanj), then Kakanj 2min later. There’s also an express service (45min-1hr) to Kakanj, where the bus station is just over the river from town, with a taxi stand alongside. The two settlements are 1km apart.

Bed One of only two hotels in town, the functional but comfortable Motel Tiron stands by the MGM Farm complex on main 311. lahke brigade towards Doboj. In Kakanj town centre, Doboj/Kakanj the modern Hotel Kakanj is where sports teams stay, making use of its Every country has its Castel di Sangro 18 rooms and Naša kuća restaurant story, in which a little team from a tiny overlooking the main street of Alije community hits the big time. Italy’s Izetbegovića. was made into a best-selling sports book. Bosnia’s became the subject Beer of a documentary film made for Al Kakanj has the only drinking options. Jazeera by Jasenko Korjenić: Bosanski Two attractive cafés, the Venezia and Hoffenheim, the title part-referring to Budučnost Banovići to their Pod of 1965 that killed all in a cave-in TV-equipped Gotiva, have waterfront Germany’s own Cinderella tale. Vardom ground north of town. – Mladost are linked to cement. terraces on Branilaca, parallel to following, the multi-generational Backing from HeidelbergCement, the the Zgošća stream. On main Alije FK Mladost made the Premijer liga Crvena legija, the Red Legion. For the Mladost fans, however, as seen in German multinational present here, Izetbegovića, the Pivnica Kakanj in 2015, the very moment captured by town many of these fans come from, the film, don red for the match-day allowed Mušija and the local council, is resolutely old-school, while the the film crew as club owner Mensur Kakanj, has had a team since 1920, march to the nearby settlement of delighted to see Doboj on the national equally lived-in Retro Pub is more Mušija dives into a sea of fans. In fact, Rudar. Featuring crossed hammers Doboj – known as Doboj (Kakanj) to stage, create a football ground from Western in feel – Sarajevsko is the the pharmaceutical entrepreneur on their badge, Rudar (‘Miner’) Kakanj differentiate it from the railway town a modest pitch just off the A1 road beer of choice in one, Tuborg in the exhorts the words ‘Premijer liga! have thrice finished within one league in Republika Srpska – to cross the to nearby Zenica. Capacity is 3,000 other. Over the river, near the main Premijer liga!’ to the hordes in red. place of promotion. They remain river Bosnia to the MGM Farm Arena. – 500 more than the population of the roundabout, the Konoba Kakanj, If anything, the most surprising rooted to the second rung, welcoming While Rudar are tied in with coal village itself. MGM Farm is Mušija’s Restoran Lipa and Kod Šuhre all phenomenon of Mladost’s rise is the the likes of Zvijezda Gradačac and – and Kakanj with the mining disaster pharmaceutical firm. serve beer and honest local food.

liberoguide.com 14 BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA 2020-21 FK Mladost www.liberoguide.com/fk-mladost

dot the surrounding walls, occupies MLADOST FK the red seats in the main West Stand, Tribina Zapad. When you approach the main entrance after crossing the river, a sign by the red ticket kiosk directs you to either sector. All is open to the elements, convivial in May, bitter in November, though there’s a pitch-side bar for shelter. The south, scoreboard, end is empty but for a couple of buildings.

Transport If you’re getting the bus from Sarajevo, if you alight at Doboj (Kakanj), two minutes before Kakanj (tell the driver), you’re dropped just before the mosque and main fork in the road. From there, it’s a 5-10min walk away from the mosque to the ground, staying on the same side of the street, keeping the RIMA supermarket to your right. The road forks left, taking you over the bridge and the river Bosnia. From Kakanj, it’s and host top-flight football after The title, comparing Mladost to the Keeping top scorer Haris Dilaver, a 15min walk, along this same road. FK Mladost Mladost’s meteoric rise from winners German fairytale side, proved apt as Mladost stayed above the relegation of the lowly Zenica-Doboj Canton the cameras were there when the zone, then again even after selling Tickets FK Mladost (facebook.com/mladostdk) league in 2010 to champions of the club achieved its historic promotion him to Platanias in Greece. Changing Admission is 5KM/€2.50 from the red are the smallest club in the Premijer second-tier First League of Bosnia- in 2015. Roared on by the Red Legion, coaches with predictable regularity, kiosk by the main entrance, the first liga, representing a settlement of 2,500 Herzegovina within five years. the Crvena legija, little Mladost had Mušija has still managed to keep the thing you see after the bridge. Tribina people. Doboj, or Doboj (Kakanj) as won the league at only the second magic going, though average gates are Zapad is with the home fans/neutrals. it is referred to, beside an industrial The man behind this transformation, attempt, joining the top sides from now in the hundreds. Away fans – fewer town in the heart of Bosnia, consists of owner/chairman Mensur Mušija, Sarajevo and Mostar. Instead of Rudar now that Zenica have been relegated, Bars one main road, one mosque, cement whose pharmaceutical company lends Kakanj from the town next door, three- though Željo travel in decent numbers The neat, signature red FK Mladost works and the MGM Farm Arena, the stadium its name, is the main time champions Zenica would be the – occupy the low-rise terracing behind clubhouse bar occupies the north- a football ground of 3,000 capacity. focus of a documentary about this local rivals. In fact, the first few home the north goal, Tribina Sjever. Everyone east corner of the ground, with chairs HeidelbergCement sponsors the club, journey, Bosanski Hoffenheim, created games of Mladost’s debut top-flight else, especially Crvena legija, whose ranged around its covered terrace by enabling the stadium to be modernised by Jasenko Korjenić for Al Jazeera. campaign were moved there. stencilled murals of Roman centurions the pitch.

liberoguide.com 15 BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA 2020-21 Krupa na Vrbasu www.liberoguide.com/krupa-na-vrbasu KRUPA VRBASU NA

Bed The only accommodation near Krupa is the riverside Vrbas Kamp (+387 66 946 749), wooden tent-shaped huts (20KM- 30KM/€10-€15) dotted by the river for rafters, rowers and outdoor types. Common areas for relaxing, cooking and dining areas are comfortable. Note that it only operates in warmer months and is 6km north of Krupa in Rekavice.

rafting club, a waterfall, a medieval spot, the following season. Ilić was and 5 to Krmine run to Krupa na Beer Krupa na Vrbasu monastery church and a few dozen behind the one-stand, 3,500-capacity Vrbasu (3.5KM/€1.75, journey time There’s a couple of places on the main buildings, with a few more scattered Gradski stadion. Promoted again in 40mins) every 1-2hrs Mon-Sat, with road and a couple further up towards Intrepid football travellers who up the hillsides. 2020, FK Krupa are now back with four services on Sundays. The bus the waterfall. Roadside Sany, about 300 alight at Krupa na Vrbasu after the big boys – and provide a top-flight also stops in Banja Luka city centre, metres south of the main bus stop, has the 40-minute journey by local As you realise that this must be the groundhop for anyone willing to try. by the Museum of Contemporary Art. a sunny terrace and TV sport above the bus from Banja Luka might think smallest community in Europe to In Krupa, the driver will stop on the gambling machines at the back. From that this picturesque settlement of support a top-flight football team, Bearings main road near the football stadium, the main junction, up the road in the 1,000+ people consists of a football you ask yourself, how? The answer Banja Luka Airport is 50km (31 miles) but remind him to do so. From Banja opposite direction from the stadium, ground and little else. Indeed, the is, partly, Draško Ilić. The head of north of Krupa na Vrbasu, and 23km Luka Airport, a Banjalučki taxi (+387 Seosko domaćinstvo Vidović serves Gradski stadion, home of FK Krupa, Development for Agriculture and (14 miles) north of Banja Luka itself. 51 232 310, [email protected]) tasty traditional fish and grilled meat, twice promoted to the Premijer Villages in Republika Srpska is also See p10 for details of transport from should charge around 70KM/€35, with plenty of local wine and beer, in a liga in recent seasons, will be the chairman of FK Krupa. Formed the airport into the city. From the from the city, 40KM/€20. Lodging gorgeous rural setting. Further up the first feature you find as you turn in 1983, the Blues were not only local bus stop by the train station options here are extremely limited same track, Krupski slapovi is similar towards the river Vrbas. But there’s promoted to the Premijer in 2016, they – not the main bus station – Bočac – plan out your journey onwards or in style and offer, overlooking the more. Explore a little and you find a finished fourth, one off a European bus Nos.3 to Bočac, 4 to Agino Selo back to Banja Luka. waterfall it’s named after.

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FK Krupa KRUPA FK

No football ground in Europe feels more rural or more remote than the Gradski stadion, home of FK Krupa (fkkrupa.net), promoted to the Premijer liga for a second time in 2020. Here, a 40-minute local bus journey from Banja Luka in Republika Srpska, amid a scattering of natural and historic attractions – waterfalls, a fast-flowing river tackled by rafters, an Orthodox monastery dating back to the 1300s – a top-flight football club is not what you expect to find.

But here FK Krupa chairman Draško Ilić has developed another rustic initiative to promote the region, integral to his role as head of Development for Agriculture and Villages in Republika Srpska. His third hat, until 2018, was president of came in 2014, won two promotions the Banja Luka Football Association, and took FK Krupa to the Bosnian before being suspended for allowing Cup final in 2017. He now oversees non-members into the local league. Ilić the national Under-21 side. FK three times more than the population Vrbasu, dropping off on the main road Bars successfully made the case that no- Krupa then achieved a promotion of the surrounding community. All is near the stadium. A taxi (+387 51 232 On the main road opposite the turning one else could have raised the profile back to the Premijer liga in 2019- done out in signature blue, with one 310, [email protected]) would for the stadium, the Gric Gric Grill is of Bosanska Krajina so positively. Back 20 under former Celta Vigo striker of Bosnia’s best stadium bars by the be wiser – but the rate of 40KM/€20 a better class of roadside stop, bottles in the mid-1990s, this former frontier Džimi Marić. Bosnia’s top clubs will main stand. from Banja Luka might be doubled of Jelen, Tuborg and Nektar served of the Ottoman Empire was notorious again be striding out at the Gradski to call them out to pick you up from on a raised terrace, along with grilled for the atrocities committed here stadion, consisting of one long all- Transport Krupa, then go back again. meats. Signposted from the main road, during the Yugoslav War. seater main stand running along Public transport is tricky, certainly in beside the main stand, stadium bar the nearest sideline to the main terms of getting back after the game Tickets the Premijer is neat, contemporary The other key character in the Krupa road. Close by are nothing but fields, to anywhere with a bed. Infrequent Admission is a straightforward and bare-brick inside, with a long story is Slobodan Starčević. A coach beyond the river Vrbas whose name Bočac bus Nos.3, 4 and 5 from Banja 5KM/€2.50 from the blue kiosk on the terrace ideal for pre-match beers with no notable playing career, this differentiates this Krupa from the one Luka city bus stop near the train day – choose your seat somewhere in outdoors. A separate serving outlet former assistant at Borac Banja Luka near Bihać. Capacity is 3,500, almost station take 40mins to reach Krupa na the main stand. operates on match days.

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Herzegovina for clubs from Sarajevo, MOSTAR Tuzla and other main Bosnian cities.

The league was fused with its Croatian counterpart to create the Premijer liga in 2000-01. This, in turn, revived the Mostar derby, a bitter affair riven with grievance. By then, Velež had set up in Vrapčići on the city’s far north-eastern outskirts, Now called the Stadion Rođeni after the club’s nickname (‘Our Own’), the site had been earmarked by Velež just before World War II. After 1945, the decision was made to build a stadium in the western suburb of Bijeli Brijeg. Back then, populist Velež were the only team in town, the pride of Mostar, effectively a one-club city without Zrinjski.

But Zrinjski had the longer history. After Bosnia-Herzegovina came under Austro-Hungarian control in 1878, Central Europe exerted its control and influence, bringing in the army and administrators, urban planning and the railway. With the Adriatic an hour Ottoman landmark brings tourists joined the First League of Herzeg- during the brutal Siege of Mostar away, transport connections opened Mostar from Dalmatia but no longer bonds Bosnia for local Croatian clubs, a between 1992 and 1994. Banned up this former Ottoman outpost. In Mostar. Each side of town, the Croat forerunner of today’s Premijer liga, by the Yugoslavia’s Communist 1903, Oskar Lajhner, the son of a Mostar is the capital of Herzegovina, west and the Bosniak east, now has which they’ve since won an equal authorities for half a century, revived local banker, received a football as a a rugged region south-west of Bosnia its own bus station, its own school record six times. Zrinjski play at Zrinjski duly moved into the revered present from Budapest. Hungarian between the southern tip of Dalmatia system – and its own football club. the Stadion pod Bijelim Brijegom, stadium, a major bone of contention soldiers based at the Sjerverni logor and the Dinaric Alps. The green built for city rivals Velež Mostar in when the city had so much other garrison, alongside the Neretva Neretva river that feeds it also divides Their origins dating back to the very the 1950s. Staging ‘Rođeni’s’ great division and bloodshed to deal with. north-east of town, showed Lajhner it, bisecting Mostar, whose Old Bridge beginnings of the game here, Zrinjski domestic cup runs and European The east side, in particular, was in and friends how the game was played. gave the city its name. Destroyed Mostar represent the Croatian triumphs of the 1970s and 1980s, the ruins. Playing in Zenica, Velež took A student team was duly formed, the in 1993, rebuilt a decade later, this community. Reformed in 1992, they stadium found itself on the Croat side part in the First League of Bosnia and Đački športski klub.

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In 1911, pupils of the Osman school MOSTAR from Sarajevo stopped off in Mostar on the way home from Split. Their two games with Đački were the first ever to take place in Bosnia- Herzegovina. A year later, the Mostar club was renamed Zrinjski after the noble Croatian/Hungarian dynasty. Dissolved during World War I, Zrinjski were revived in 1922, the same year that a prominent Communist activist founded workers’ club Velež, named after a nearby mountain. Their badge a five-pointed red star, Velež had clear political leanings. The Belgrade authorities in the Kingdom of Yugoslavia favoured the Jugoslovenski sport klub, co-founded by Oskar flights from Zagreb. Moj Taxi (+387 Lajhner in 1919. All based at Sjerverni 1503) should charge 12KM/€6 into logor, JSK, Velež and Zrinjski were town. Sarajevo is 121km (75 miles) Mostar’s dominant teams between away. Trains to Mostar are infrequent. the wars, the Croatians also playing Regular Autoprevoz and Centrotrans friendlies in Zagreb and Dubrovnik. buses (20KM/€10) take 2hrs 30mins, After the Nazi-backed Croatia republic arriving at the East station by the train was created in 1941, it subsumed terminal on Maršala Tita. Buses from a great find, its balconies and pool out for Stella umbrellas) also shows Bosnia-Herzegovina and set up its Split or Dubrovnik (each 3hrs 30mins, overlooking the Neretva. games in smarter surroundings more own football league, dominated by €14) also use the West station north suitable to sipping Aperol spritz. Old Zagreb. Zrinjski’s involvement led of Bijeli Brijeg. Local yellow Mostar Beer Velež photos are a nice touch. For a to their ban in 1945, the Communist Bus services (1.50KM/€0.75 on board) was rebuilt after the Siege. Further Pubs and bars dot the main streets late place that rocks, Marshall on regime happy to back Velež. Twice cover the city. down towards the Old Bridge, by on the west side while tourists flock Rade Bitange amps up the tunes. relegated in recent times, Velež its replica Kriva Ćuprija, the classy to the food-focused spots near the Staying in the Old Town, the Black remain interwoven with Mostar’s Bed four-star of the same name offers river. First port of call should be the Dog Pub by Kriva Ćuprija specialises urban fabric while Zrinjski enjoy Of the many hotels on the west bank, swish rooms and a top restaurant. wonderful Shankly’s Pub on Ante in craft beer, with live music staged ministerial backing and fanatical none are alongside Bijeli Brijeg. A Nearby on Kapetanova, the Motel Starčevića, Liverpool-themed down on the terrace and a TV screen within support at Bijeli Brijeg. 10min walk along Stjepana Radića, the Deny comprises seven simple but to the bar food, screening matches the bare-brick interior. Further west, modern Mostar has a spa, restaurant comfortable rooms while on Jusovina, and full of lively football buzz amid among the many terrace bars around Bearings and hairdresser’s. Nearby, overlooking the smart Pension Čardak has free framed shirts. DJs spin at weekends. Rondo, the London Pub feels neither Mostar Airport 6km (four miles) Musala (aka Tito’s) Bridge, the mid- parking. On the east side, by the bus Its equivalent on the east side, the like London nor any pub but shows south of town serves Croatia Airlines range Bristol feels old-school though station and Carinski Bridge, Aldi is Italianate Forza on Braće Fejića (look games and serves beer.

liberoguide.com 19 BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA 2020-21 Velež Mostar www.liberoguide.com/velez-mostar

Rođeni, packed to its 7,000 capacity VELEŽ MOSTAR for the successful 2019 promotion clash with FK Igman. The Mostar derby with Zrinjski, re-established in 2000, remains the highlight of every year – assuming Velež are in the Premijer liga. The stadium is a reluctant work in progress, the home Red Army recently built a new East Stand, Istočna tribina, the south Južna tribina the next task in hand.

Transport Infrequent bus Nos.22 and 23 run Velež Mostar from Musala, near the eastern foot of the bridge of the same name, to The five-pointed red star has been Vrapčići. The only practical alternative proudly worn by Velež Mostar is a taxi (KM10-12/€5-€6) as walking (fkvelez.ba) from the earliest days of is too far and too dangerous on this Communism to the present day nearly main road north from town. a century later. In between, for two decades, Rođeni (‘Our Own’) were Tickets & shop one of the most feared and revered Admission is KM5/€2.50 on the day, sides in Yugoslavia, missing out on availability only an issue for the derby the 1974 title on goal difference. That with Zrinjski. You’ll find stalls of red same year, in the most memorable souvenirs outside the ground on of several European campaigns, match days. Velež overcame soon-to-be English champions Derby County, 4-1. one third of a Mostar-born trio at ground built for Velež in west Mostar. Zrinjski, and the loss of the Stadion Bars Velež from boyhood, all members of What boy didn’t dream of playing at pod Bijelim Brijegom, now in Croat Just north of the stadium on main The euphoria of that heroic win, Yugoslavia’s World Cup squad of 1974. Velež? Which bedroom wall or bar in hands. Supported financially and Mehe Tase, the traditional Restoran Velež 3-1 down from the away leg The threesome, Bajević, goalkeeper Mostar didn’t display a Velež team politically by Zagreb, Zrinjski became Leami serves Pan and Tuborg beers, then settling the tie with an 86th- Enver Marić and midfielder Franjo photo or pennant? a major force in the domestic and classic grilled dishes. Tables line minute penalty by Dušan Bajević, Vladić, were nicknamed BMV after game. Velež duly moved to a field the covered terrace and bare-brick was tempered in the next round the luxury cars made by Yugoslav The brutal division of Mostar during in Vrapčići beyond north-east interior equipped with a TV. South when eventual UEFA Cup finalists Gastarbeiter in Germany. Similarly, the Siege of 1992-94 and rise of Mostar, mismanagement resulting of the ground, the chintzy Restoran Twente Enschede struck even later after each player made his mark Croat nationalism in Herzegovina in relegation and underachievement. Castle is hired out for weddings by – there wasn’t even time to kick abroad, they would come back to the had two major consequences for Out of this mess, the club at least romantic Velež fans but also operates off afterwards. ‘Princ’ Bajević was Stadion pod Bijelim Brijegom, the Velež: the revival of city rivals managed to create the Stadion daily.

liberoguide.com 20 BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA 2020-21 Zrinjski Mostar www.liberoguide.com/zrinjski-mostar

Zrinjski Mostar MOSTAR ZRINJSKI

Equal record league champions Zrinjski Mostar (hskzrinjski.ba) have been the biggest success story of the Premijer liga. With historic links to the earliest origins of the game in Bosnia- Herzegovina, prominent between the wars, Zrinjski were banned by the Communist authorities in 1945 for the club’s involvement with the independent league set up by Nazi- backed Croatia. Tickets & shop Reformed in 1992 when Zagreb was Admission is 5KM/€2.50 on the day. seeking to establish control and Halfway between the train station and greater Croatian influence in war- the stadium, the Fan Shop Zrinjski torn Mostar, Zrinjski benefitted from (Kralja Tvrtka/Brune Bušića, Mon-Sat significant financial and political 9am-9pm) stocks the club’s current backing to become the leading team Peru-style shirts and a range of stylish in town and, indeed, Herzegovina. This T-shirts. Many feature the Croatia involved taking over the Stadion pod motif – not the wisest item to wear Bijelim Brijegom, the stadium built around the Bosniak side of town. for the club Zrinjski usurped. Founded by Communists, Velež once enjoyed Bars popular support across Mostar but Towards the stadium, casual drinking their Croat fans flocked to Zrinjski in to the Tribina stajanje, the standing out fixtures. In truth though, even with Transport options line the main roads of Stjepana the 1990s. section of the Istočna tribina, the East the three-in-a-row titles between 2016 The stadium is a 10-15min walk from Radića and Kralja Tomislava, where Stand. European progress proved and 2018, the domestic game has lost Mostar West bus station, turning you’ll find terrace bars Che City Pub, Drafting in promising talent from slow, however, with a debut defeat its attraction, average gates falling right down Vukovarska then Hrvatske Escobar and TV-equipped Mali Puž. Dinamo Zagreb – an 18-year-old Luka to Dudelange of Luxembourg, and a below 3,000. A modest run in the mladeži. Bus Nos.1, 3, 4 and 5 call The last place on Stjepana Radića, Modrić was voted Player of the Year whitewash by Partizan Belgrade, the Europa League in 2019-20, including at the nearest stop, Ekonomska Tecó, serves superior sandwiches and when loaned here in 2003-04 – Zrinjski result later reversed because of crowd a win over Utrecht, points to a future škola, but weekend services are few. bottled beers by Mostar craft brewers won a first title the following season. trouble in Mostar. beyond the limitations of left-over From town, it’s a 15-20min walk from Cooltura, including Amber, APA and The club attracted the highest gates ethnic grievances. Stadium capacity Musala/Tito’s Bridge, past the Hotel Smoked. Its terrace overlooks the that campaign, nearly 6,000, as the In the league, the revived derby with is 9,000, away supporters allocated a Bristol, straight down Mostarskog north end of the ground where, just Ultras Mostar moved over from the Velež and the newly established one sector in the all-seated West Stand, bataljona/Kralja Zvonimira. A taxi inside, a modest café is lined with old West Stand to bring collective support with nearby Široki Brijeg are the stand- Zapadna tribina. should cost around 8KM/€4. photos and shelves of trophies.

liberoguide.com 21 BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA 2020-21 Široki Brijeg www.liberoguide.com/siroki-brijeg

Brijeg (+387 63 106 000) should charge BRIJEG ŠIROKI around 36KM/€18 into town. Local Miškić buses run from Mostar Zapadni station to Široki Brijeg (12KM/€6, 40min journey time), infrequently at weekends. There are also services from Sarajevo 143km (89 miles) away, and Split 124km (77 miles) away. Široki Brijeg bus station is a 10min walk south-west of town, the stadium a 10min walk east.

Bed Garden The only hotel in town, the four- star Park on trg dr Ante Starčevića, features TV football in the café, a rooftop restaurant and free parking. You’ll also find a few simple rooms at the Dvije Topole restaurant on the same street, Fra Didaka Buntića, as the stadium 300 metres away.

Beer grievances, some justifiable, to reclaim with its equivalent in Bosnia and A handful of drinking options are Široki Brijeg their Croatian heritage in the early Herzegovina, then with its counterpart found on and off the main square, 1990s. Široki Brijeg, both town and in the Republika Srpska. Like Zrinjski trg Širokobrijeskih žrtava, starting For a town of fewer than 30,000 people football club, had previously been Mostar, Široki Brijeg have a HDZ with the Garden summer bar, open with no high-level football tradition, named Lištica after the local river. politician at the helm, from Croatia’s year round, its large terrace ideal the success of Široki Brijeg in the 21st Actually, the first club here, founded ruling centre-right party. Given the fact in sunny weather. Close by on Fra century has been quite amazing. The in 1948, was called Borak after the that Široki Brijeg ultras are named Didaka Buntića, the Irish Pub Spancil flagship club representing this little source of the Lištica. Then came Škripari after the Croatian nationalists Hill serves sought-after beers, most town just outside Mostar, NK Široki Boksit, then Lištica, then Mladost. who continued fighting Yugoslav notably local craft Lovac, as well as Brijeg have won five major trophies As Mladost-Dubint, the club won the Partisans after World War II here, it’s new generation of fans, perhaps with a pints of Bavarian Paulaner. Great for and finished league runners-up or inaugural, then first three editions of no surprise that several controversial younger, more nuanced mindset. TV football, too. On the same road, cup finalists ten times since unified the First League of Herzeg-Bosnia incidents have arisen. With no league towards the stadium, the standard competition in 2002-03. for Croatian clubs in the region set up title won since 2006, however, crowds Bearings Dvije Topole serves Karlovačko beer in the early 1990s. As Široki Brijeg, have dipped at the Stadion Pecara, the Mostar Airport 29km (18 miles) east and traditional dishes. Within the Like local rivals Zrinjski Mostar, Plavi they won the next two. This success stadium south-east of town in place of town serves Croatia Airlines flights Hotel Park, the smart Gradska Kavana (‘the Blues’) seized upon earlier continued as the league was fused since 1953. The task now is to attract a from Zagreb. Gradski Taxi Široki stocks quality spirits.

liberoguide.com 22 BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA 2020-21 NK Široki Brijeg www.liberoguide.com/nk-siroki-brijeg

this compact, 7,000-capacity ground NK ŠIROKI BRIJEG NK ŠIROKI was completely modernised in the late 1990s and now has stands on three sides, with hoardings and the scoreboard behind the west goal. Alongside in the North Stand, Sjeverna tribina, the local Škripari ultras bounce for all 90 minutes. Home fans also occupy the covered Južna tribina opposite, while visiting supporters are allocated a sector behind the east goal, Istočna tribina.

Transport The stadium is a 10min walk from town along Fra Didaka Buntića, 15-20min from the bus station, first up Antuna Michanovića, then Fra Didaka Buntića past the Hotel Park. A taxi should be 4KM/€2 from town, 6KM/€3 from the and Serbian teams in the Premijer liga. station. Formed at Dinamo Zagreb, Croatian under-21 striker Domagoj Abramović Tickets & shop was top scorer both times when Široki Admission is 5KM/€2.50 on the day Brijeg won titles in 2004 and 2006, from the windows on Fra Didaka Kazakhstan and FK Zeta of Montenegro and 1992, when Bosnia-Herzegovina while Brazilian Wagner Santos Lago Buntića. On the same road, in the NK Široki Brijeg – but aggregate victories have been declared independence and war broke bossed the club’s midfield during that modern sports hall past the stadium, few and far between. out. In Herzegovina, Croatia sought to successful 2005-06 campaign, bowing blue shirts and scarves are sold at the 2020 is only the third summer since establish control and influence in all out in 2018 as a 40-year-old stalwart Fan Shop Široki. 2002 that the name of NK Široki Brijeg And yet they’ve notched up 16 fields, including football. setting a record number of goals and (nk-sirokibrijeg.com) isn’t in the hat European campaigns in just under appearances. He has since returned to Bars for the early rounds of European two decades. Given the pedigree of Winning the inaugural First League look after the club’s under-19 side. Two simple bars, the Caffe Indirekt competition. Since that debut the two main clubs in Sarajevo and of Herzeg-Bosnia for Croatian clubs and the Caffe Stadion, are set into the campaign in 2002-03, Plavi (‘the Blues’) the longevity of, say, Sloboda Tuzla or in 1993-94, the renamed Mladost- Always there or thereabouts, stadium on the Fra Didaka Buntića from outside Mostar in Herzegovina Borac Banja Luka, the question must Dubint Široki Brijeg took advantage of cup winners three times, Široki side, both with chairs outside. Further have shared a football pitch with be asked, why Široki Brijeg? The club backing from Zagreb to claim the first Brijeg have hosted the likes of along, the club’s Restoran Plavo Bijeli some pretty obscure opposition, previously known as Borak, Boksit, five titles, then welcome high-calibre Aberdeen and Hearts among the is a more substantial operation, with a mainly from around Eastern Europe Lištica and Mladost had never been players once Široki Brijeg and nearest more obscure opponents at the long covered terrace and a TV showing – Urartu of Armenia, Irtysh Pavlodar of prominent between foundation in 1948 rivals Zrinjski Mostar joined Bosnian Stadion Pecara. Opened in 1953, match action inside.

liberoguide.com 23 BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA 2020-21 Tuzla www.liberoguide.com/tuzla

quotes 20KM/€10. The city centre is TUZLA served by GiPS local buses, pay the driver KM1/€0.50 on board. Sarajevo is 120km (75 miles) from Tuzla. A Centrotrans bus (23KM/€11.50) takes 3hrs 10mins. Tuzla bus station is on the west, stadium, side of the centre.

Bed Behind the Sloboda bar in town, the five-starGolden Star on Jevrejska is sleek and business-friendly. Deeper into town, Heartland City on Kazan Mahala offers upper mid-range In 2014, Blažević was tasked with comfort. Best hotel in town is the getting Sloboda back to the Bosnian Mellian on aleja Alije Izetbegovića, Premijer. That achieved, Husić turned on the west side of town, with a spa his attention to FK Sloga in Simin centre, pool and restaurant. Across the Han, a small community 7km east of river on ZAVNOBiH-a, the Hotel Tuzla Tuzla. As chairman, Husić steered this also has its own pool and restaurant. modest club to the Premijer in 2018, arranged for them to groundshare the Beer Tušanj Stadion and rebranded them Tuzla is the home of Tuzlanski beer, Tuzla City. On their badge, he placed showcased within the sturdy bare- the rusting stalwarts and, on a crazy the emblematic flower of Srebrenica. brick walls of the Pivnica Taverna Tuzla whim, persuaded legendary coach Ćiro opposite the brewery on Maršala Tita. Blažević of Croatia World Cup ’98 fame With Bosnia’s second city now Close by at Koste Racine 3, Irish pub Neither of its two top-flight clubs has to help him accomplish it. boasting two top-tier clubs, Husić set St James’s is a main match-watching yet won any major silverware, but the his sights on an influential position spot, with live music thrown in. On eastern Bosnian city of Tuzla may be Inspired by the Russian Revolution, local in the FA. If successful, his first task the city side of Gradski Park, the the new powerbase for the domestic Communists had formed century-old might be to modernise the Tušanj popular Park Pub on Đorđe Mihajlovića game thanks to the enterprise of one Sloboda as FK Gorki after the Soviet Stadion, resplendent in Socialist screens games and serves Erdinger man: Azmir Husić. writer. Tuzla’s four main communities red but otherwise begging for a and Grimbergen, among others, the each had a football team, Zrinjski for the contemporary upgrade. terrace busy in summer. Nearby on Originally from nearby Glogova, a Croats, Obilić the Serbs, Bura Bosniaks Hadžibakirbega Tuzlića, the intimate witness to Srebrenica, Husić headed and Maccabi, Jews. Renamed Sloboda Bearings Nardi Pub attracts a lively younger to America after the war to make played at Zrinjski’s ground by the Solina Tuzla Airport is 16km (ten miles) south clientele with big-screen sport and live money in trucking. A lifelong fan of river. Across town to the west, the Tušanj of town, with no public transport links. music. On Turalibegova, the Old Story Sloboda Tuzla, he returned to revive Gradski Stadion was then built in 1957. Bingo Taxi Tuzla (+387 61 135 794) Pub focuses more on food.

liberoguide.com 24 BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA 2020-21 Tušanj Gradski Stadion www.liberoguide.com/tusanj-gradski-stadion

before a TV audience of millions. Their TUŠANJ GRADSKI STADION flights arranged by the Slovenian Olympic Association, his ten fellow athletes had been unable to train in Bosnia, and could only return home as part of a humanitarian convoy.

Transport The stadium is a 15min walk west of town along the main road north of the centre that changes names from Kulina bana to Džafer mahala Thirty years later, the stadium staged to Muhameda Hevalja Uskufija to its first European tie, Sloboda’s 4-3 Rudarska. Many buses, including Nos. win over Las Palmas before a full 1, 2 and 3, stop at Ekonomska Škola house of 12,000 – all paying their ten nearby. A taxi from town should cost dinars knowing that an aggregate around KM6-KM8/€3-€4. win would be impossible, given the 5-0 first-leg defeat in the Canary Tickets Islands. Ten years after that, as Pay on the day at the row of ticket the ultra phenomenon swept Italy, gates on Rudarska, admission a then Yugoslavia, the Fukare Tuzla modest 5KM/€2.50. were formed, and Sloboda’s fieriest following has occupied the North Bars moved in following promotion to the Stand, the Tribina Sjever, ever since. By the junction of Muhameda Hevalja Tušanj Gradski Premijer liga in 2018. Capacity is just Uskufija and Mirze Hadžimehmedovića, over 7,000, gates attracted by either This is the only covered area of the old-school Bosna is all things to all Stadion club rarely close to even half that stadium, apart from the press boxes. men, a restaurant, a confectionery figure. Banks of open seating rise up on the and a pre-match bar. In spring and Tuzla’s Tušanj Gradski Stadion east and west sides, the south end summer, a leafy terrace operates (stadiontusanj.ba) echoes its The curtain-raiser between Sloboda empty but for the scoreboard and office alongside. Further up on Meše Socialist origins, its colour scheme and a Zagreb XI, shortly before the windows. The running track is still used Selimovića, the smart, two-floor fire red, its shape a classic bowl Soviets sent Sputnik into space, was for athletics meets, once the showcase Konoba MB is handy for the home end, surrounded by towering resident more for show. Sloboda had already for former European champion shot its beers including Czech Krušovice. On blocks. Unveiled in 1957, this played Željezničar here a year putter Zlatan Saračević of the Sloboda the same stretch closer to the ground, municipal ground has since served before, in August 1956, but it was west of the city centre. Tušanj was club. After Bosnia-Herzegovina was the Bufet Ajša serves classic Balkan Sloboda Tuzla and, just over 60 back in 1947 that local schoolchildren and remains a sparsely populated granted a last-minute inclusion in the grilled meats and, as suggested by years later, became Bosnia’s main and pioneer scouts pitched in to shift area, its main features a salt mine 1992 Olympics in Barcelona, Saračević the red colour scheme of its covered groundshare when Tuzla City bricks and stones at this site north- and a mosque. became the country’s first flag bearer terrace, Karlovačko beer.

liberoguide.com 25 BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA 2020-21 Sloboda Tuzla www.liberoguide.com/sloboda-tuzla

Sloboda Tuzla SLOBODA TUZLA

One of the great names in the Bosnian game, Sloboda Tuzla (fksloboda.ba) were recently revived by lifelong fan Azmir Husić. As club chairman, he first persuaded legendary coach Ćiro Blažević to gain Sloboda promotion back to the Premijer, then hired Husref Musemić to steer Sloboda to runners-up spots in the league and cup in 2016. A Bosnian Cup finalist on seven unsuccessful occasions, historic Sloboda had never come so close to the title and, with Husić and Musemić romped home 5-0. Following the so- now working together at newly called katastrofa, the seven-goal return reformed local rivals Tuzla City, it may leg, a 4-3 win for Sloboda at Tušanj is be a while before it happens again. considered a historic triumph.

Much was made of the club’s centenary Relegation in 2012 – Sloboda had in 2019, including a gala match with exactly the same record as Slavija Dinamo Zagreb and a coffee-table Sarajevo but had conceded one goal album bearing a five-pointed red star more in head-to-head games – came on its cover. after 42 seasons of unbroken top-flight football, within Yugoslavia or Bosnia- Formed by local Communists in the Herzegovina. It was then that Azmir wake of the Russian Revolution, Husić returned from America, having Sloboda (‘Freedom’) started out as FK made his fortune in trucking. stalls, murals everywhere and an also buy tickets from the UG Prijatelji connection, the Café Bar Sloboda Gorki, were banned by the authorities ultras group, Fukare, with a multi- FK Sloboda outlet in town (see below). (daily 7am-1am) would still be the best then renamed. Moving into the newly Since 2016, and another early generational reach after more than drinking destination in the historic built Tušanj Gradski Stadion In 1957, European exit, at the hands of Beitar three decades of activity. Bars & shop centre. Terrace tables emblazoned with Sloboda had their Yugoslav heyday Jerusalem, Sloboda have hit the horse Fans gather at two prominent outlets the Sloboda logo spread over Solni trg, in 1977, finishing third in the league latitudes, not in European contention Transport & tickets in town, a store and ticket outlet, and where DJs set up on summer nights. ahead of Partizan Belgrade. There and drifting back towards relegation. With ‘Sloboda’ and ‘1919’ written in a lively sports bar. Udruženje Gradana Screens show match action, while staff was even a brief but memorable foray The club remains, though, integral to black across seats of signature red, (UG) Prijatelji FK Sloboda (Patriotske dispense Pan, Tuborg and Erdinger into Europe, the subsequent UEFA daily life in Tuzla, with a fans’ bar and the Tušanj Gradski Stadion is very lige 4, daily 8am-11pm) is where to go beers, plus burgers and toasted Cup campaign a trek of 5,000km and supporters’ outlet in town, red-and- much the club’s home. For details of for red-and-black merchandise and sandwiches. As the Sloboda motto says, four stopovers to Las Palmas – who black shirts dangling from market transport and tickets, see p25. You can match tickets. Even without any football Music, Love, Chill.

liberoguide.com 26 BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA 2020-21 Tuzla City www.liberoguide.com/tuzla-city TUZLA CITY TUZLA

plus residents, one main road and Tuzla City a few streets, FK Sloga had been founded in 1955. Almost as soon as Looking at the rebranding of the club, Husić arrived in 2012, they won their its name now Tuzla City (fktuzlacity. division in the Tuzla canton, then a com), its badge sky blue, you might higher one a year later. After a third think that the former FK Sloga from straight promotion in 2014-15, this Simin Han are part of the global reach time at national level, FK Sloga were of a certain multimillion-dirham forced to play another season in the operation based in Manchester. Also third-tier Druga liga North. on the badge, however, is the symbolic flower of Srebrenica, put there by club With this, Husić set about president Azmir Husić. A soldier in modernising his club’s modest Bare the Bosnia-Herzegovina Army at the ground, creating a training complex first season, back at Simin Han, a run had taken Tuzla City to the top to a European place. Eventually, only time, Husić later headed for America, essential to his plans. Within system was being put in place for a of the Premijer liga. By the end of one point would separate Tuzla City returning to Tuzla where he invested two seasons, FK Sloga would win series of six youth teams from under- September, one defeat and one draw from the Europa League in 2020. his funds and his know-how into both the second-tier Prva liga by five 8s all the way up to under-19s. had seen the departure of Muminović football clubs, his boyhood heroes of clear points and move into town to and the arrival of Enver Baljić. One Transport & tickets Sloboda and modest FK Sloga. groundshare the municipal Tušanj As for the first team, Husić recalled of country’s first international stars For details of the Tušanj Gradski Gradski Stadion with Sloboda. It was Milenko Bošnjaković, the locally born and an assistant coach in Bosnia’s Stadion, see p25. For Simin Han, a taxi Synonymous with the busy industrial at this point, on the eve of their debut coach behind those divisional wins in successful qualification for the 2014 from Tuzla takes 10mins and costs hub of Tuzla, Sloboda had nearly a campaign in the Premijer liga, that 2015 and 2016, and brought in players World Cup, the former Fenerbahce 12KM/€6. The bus (2KM/€1) takes century of history and decades of FK Sloga became Tuzla City. While such as former Croatia U-21 centre- forward would be another major 15mins. Simin Han bus station is top-tier tradition behind them. A the goals of former Serbia U-21 back Darick Morris and recent Bosnia figure to terminate his coaching over the river from the mosque and few kilometres east at Simin Han, international striker Vojo Ubiparip U-21 goalkeeper Azir Muminović. contract at Tuzla City but his half- the ground 100 metres behind it on in a sleepy community of 1,000- kept the club afloat – just – in that By mid-September, an unbeaten season in charge kept the club close Zlatnih ljiljana.

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