Session 6: Crewelwork II: Filling Stitches In this session we are going to explore some more free embroidery stitches to complete the Crewelwork project. You will be learning three filling stitches: Satin Stitch, Square trellis stitch, and French Knots. These will allow you to finish this part of the masterclass. All the stitches you have been learning for this project can also be worked with cotton thread, and you will be re-using several of them in the remaining projects of the Masterclass. MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT NEEDED FOR THIS SESSION: • Embroidery hoop or small frame • Embroidery scissors • Marking pen or pencil (optional) • Completed work from Session 5: Crewelwork I: Line stitches and Bayeux stitch • Needles: Crewel needle, size 7-8 • Appleton’s crewel wool yarns: 482, 486, 543, 547, 607 READ ALL OF THE INSTRUCTIONS THROUGH BEFORE YOU START YOUR EMBROIDERY. WORKING THE EMBROIDERY: 1. Place the embroidered fabric in your hoop or frame, and make sure the fabric is taut. We are going to start by learning Satin Stitch. 2. BUD: Thread your needle with the Dark Turquoise yarn and make a knot at the end. Bring the needle through at the middle of the base of the bud, where the line dips in. 3. Take the yarn down at the centre of the other side of the base, making a straight stitch across the bud. Bring your needle up again on the first line, just to the right of the first stitch. Make another straight stitch right next to the first. Continue making straight, parallel stitches across this part of the design until you reach the tip on this side. Make sure you cover the marked line as you stitch, and that you are also covering the back of the space (this is different from the first stage of the Bayeux Stitch, which left the back empty.) This is straight satin stitch. 4. Pass the thread through the back of your stitching until you are back at the centre of the shape and fill in the other side of the shape in the same way. Keep your stitches parallel and close together so the fabric is covered completely. If you have a gap between two stitches, add another stitch between them. Courtesy of Alison Larkin for Immediate Live MAIN FLOWER: 5. The outlines of the petals on the main flower are stitched in Slanted Satin Stitch. By fanning the stitches out slightly at one end, they will follow the shape of the petal. This is done by making one end of the stitches slightly closer together than the other ends, so the direction of the stitch changes. 6. When you are working these sections, you might find it helps to use your marking pen to show the direction of the stitches, as in the diagram over the page. Keep the lines inside the marked line of the petal edge. Use the purple yarn for this stitching. Start at the tip of the point of the petal and bring the needle up at the tip. Take the yarn across to the inside point and down. Then come back up just to the right of the first stitch, and down the same hole on the inside edge. The 3rd stitch goes down close to the tip. 7. Continue to work round the shape, changing the direction of the stitches by adjusting the space between them so they follow the lines you have marked. When you have worked one half of the petal edge, go back to the tip and work the other half. 8. Repeat this with the other petals of the flower, using the purple thread throughout. The close-up of the petal below shows you how the direction of the stitches changes as you work round the shape. 9. The centres of the petals are working in square trellis stitch, which is a good stitch for filling spaces fairly quickly. Start with the Light Turquoise yarn and work the bottom petal first (shown in the photo). Bring the needle up at the base of the petal between the satin stitch sections. Make a stitch straight across the petal centre space: it helps if you try and follow the weave of the fabric. Bring the needle back up about 0.5cm (scant ¼ inch) away and make another straight stitch parallel to the first. Keep working vertical stitches until you have covered the space. 10. Now work a series of horizontal stitches, again about 0.5 cm (scant ¼ in) apart and following the weave if possible. You should finish with the space covered by a square grid of stitches. 11. Now take a length of the Dark Turquoise yarn and make tiny couching stitches diagonally across the places where your first stitches intersect, as you can see in the photo. Keep the stitches going in the same direction each time. Repeat this with the other petals. There is a diagram of Square trellis stitch on the next page. Courtesy of Alison Larkin for Immediate Live FRENCH KNOTS: This stitch produces a raised spot, which can be different sizes. They can be spaced out across an area or packed closely together to fill a space completely. They are difficult to show in a diagram (I’ve had a go below!) so please do watch the masterclass to see how they are worked. 12. Bring your needle up close to where you want the French knot to be. Hold the yarn and wrap it round the needle twice. Put the needle through the fabric where the French Knot will be and hold the yarn taut (but not too tight) with your other hand. Pull the needle and yarn down smoothly and steadily until the yarn is pulled through and the knot is formed. SOME TIPS FOR FRENCH KNOTS: • Keep your finger on the yarn (to keep it taut) until the last minute • Pull the yarn through steadily, and don’t stop! • This stitch twists up the thread more than most. Every 3-4 knots let the needle hang below your embroidery so the twists in the yarn can unwind. • The size of the knot depends on the number of twists and the size of the thread. 1 twist is small, 2 average, 3 makes a bigger knot. More than 3 twists are risky! • French knots are easier if you have both hands available. If you have a stand or clamp to hold your hoop, now is the time to use it! • It would be a good idea to practice a few knots before you stitch on the fabric. Perhaps move your hoop to the corner of your fabric and practice a bit there? 13. You are going to work French knots in two places. First, make scattered French knots in the remaining area of the bud – if you look back at the picture of the completed project on the first page of this handout you will see what I mean. Use the Dark Turquoise yarn for these knots. 14. Finally, work French knots in Light Turquoise yarn to fill the centre circle of the flower. Pack the knots quite closely together so you fill the space. That is the 3rd project completed! Well done. I hope you have enjoyed your introduction to free embroidery. Courtesy of Alison Larkin for Immediate Live MARKING PATTERN: Courtesy of Alison Larkin for Immediate Live STITCH DIAGRAMS: Courtesy of Alison Larkin for Immediate Live .