<<

B:11 in T:10.75 in S:10 in

WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2013 ■ WomEN’S WEAR DAilY ■ $3.00 T:14.75 in B:15 in S:14 in

FRONT COVER / COVER #1

Client: SAM EDELMAN Bleed: 11 in x 15 in Fonts: News 705 BT (B), Zapf Dingbats Production: STEPHEN ELLWOOD Art Director: FRED EVANS Notes: Publication: WWD Trim: 10.75 in x 14.75 in (Regular), Helvetica Neue (Regular, 45 Light), Traffic: CHRISTINA MARTINEZ Studio Artist: JOSH WEINER FOR PRODUCTION QUESTIONS PLEASE CALL: Publication Date: FEB 13, 2013 Live: 10 in x 14 in Franklin Gothic BT (Condensed) Account: MELISSA PATTI Station: BEN MORAN MAC PRO STEPHEN ELLWOOD 212 929 6670 / 917 587 8878 File Name: SE_WWD_COVERWRAP_FEB13 Images: H886_SFA_SHOT_06_148_ CHRISTINA MARTINEZ 212 929 6696 / 646 761 6955 Date: 1-30-2013 5:24 PM Position: COVER WRAP GGL_030_WWD.tif

APPROVAL CREATIVE PRODUCTION TRAFFIC ACCOUNT MANAGER CLIENT

ISO 12647-7 Digital Control Strip 2007 3% A 100 60 100 70 30 100 60 100 70 30 100 60 100 70 30 100 40 40 100 40 100 40 70 40 70 40 40 40 70 40 40 70 40 70 40 40 3 10 25 50 75 90 100

B 100 100 60 100 100 70 70 30 30 100 100 60 100 100 70 70 30 30 100 100 60 100 100 70 70 30 30 100 40 100 40 40 100 10 40 40 20 70 70 70 70 40 70 40 40 0 0 0 0 3.1 2.2 2.2 107 7 25 19 19 50 40 40 75 66 66 100 100 100 807070100

529 WEST 20TH STREET 11E NEW YORK 10011 TEL 212 213 4455 FA X 212 213 4556 WWW.NUCLEUSIMAGING.COM B:11 in T:10.75 in S:10 in T:14.75 in B:15 in S:14 in

INSIDE FRONT COVER / COVER #2

Client: SAM EDELMAN Bleed: 11 in x 15 in Fonts: Helvetica Neue (Regular, 45 Light) Production: STEPHEN ELLWOOD Art Director: FRED EVANS Notes: Publication: WWD Trim: 10.75 in x 14.75 in Images: H886_SFA_SHOT_01_178_ Traffic: CHRISTINA MARTINEZ Studio Artist: JOSH WEINER FOR PRODUCTION QUESTIONS PLEASE CALL: Publication Date: FEB 13, 2013 Live: 10 in x 14 in GGL_000.tif Account: MELISSA PATTI Station: MARTINEZ CHRISTINA STEPHEN ELLWOOD 212 929 6670 / 917 587 8878 File Name: SE_WWD_COVERWRAP_FEB13_V8 MACPRO CHRISTINA MARTINEZ 212 929 6696 / 646 761 6955 Date: 1-31-2013 3:59 PM Position: COVER WRAP

APPROVAL CREATIVE PRODUCTION TRAFFIC ACCOUNT MANAGER CLIENT

ISO 12647-7 Digital Control Strip 2007 3% A 100 60 100 70 30 100 60 100 70 30 100 60 100 70 30 100 40 40 100 40 100 40 70 40 70 40 40 40 70 40 40 70 40 70 40 40 3 10 25 50 75 90 100

B 100 100 60 100 100 70 70 30 30 100 100 60 100 100 70 70 30 30 100 100 60 100 100 70 70 30 30 100 40 100 40 40 100 10 40 40 20 70 70 70 70 40 70 40 40 0 0 0 0 3.1 2.2 2.2 107 7 25 19 19 50 40 40 75 66 66 100 100 100 807070100

529 WEST 20TH STREET 11E NEW YORK NEW YORK 10011 TEL 212 213 4455 FA X 212 213 4556 WWW.NUCLEUSIMAGING.COM LASVEGASPREVIEW WWD IN LA-LAND LINES TO SEE, WHAT TOPSHOP GOES TO DO AND WHAT BIG IN L.A. AS PART TO EXPECT AT THE OF U.S. EXPANSION LAS VEGAS TRADE PUSH. PAGE 6 WWD SHOWS. SECTION II

WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2013 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY

What A Trip

There’s no place like home — especially when it inspires intriguing fashion. Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy looked to Santa Cruz, where they grew up, for a collection that nodded to surf, skate and the trippy side of town. It also demonstrated a major step in their journey toward commercial viability. Here, their evening tie-dyes. For more from the New York collections, see pages 8 to 14. PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI Aniston on Hair, Acting, More PROFITS, SALES SURGE Someone should be rolling a camera on By JULIE NAUGHTON this, right here.’ ” Kors Looking to Grow Laughing, she added, “For me and a NO ONE KNOWS the value of a good hair lot of girls, hair is a big deal. There are day more than Jennifer Aniston. Take, a lot of greater trials of the world, but for instance, her experience on the set ask any girl — it’s one of those boxes you With Retail, E-commerce of her upcoming film, “Meet the Millers.” check off. If that means having a better “It was about 100 percent humidity, hair day, that goes a long way.” cast of between $1.86 billion and $1.96 so the frizz factor was through the roof,” To be sure, Aniston’s hair has been a By VICKI M. YOUNG billion in November, when the company Aniston said with a laugh on Sunday af- source of tabloid obsession since long- posted second-quarter results. ternoon, the day before celebrating her time friend and stylist Chris McMillan THE MICHAEL KORS juggernaut shows John Idol, chairman and chief execu- 44th birthday. “I brought along Living created the Rachel, a long choppy bob no signs of slowing — and it plans to tive officer, said in a conference call to Proof products with a healthy skepti- named for her “Friends” character, in ramp up retail and e-commerce to keep Wall Street analysts that more doors, cism. I wore a half-wig on this film, and the Nineties. So it’s natural that she it rolling. whether through new stores or the in- the girl who was washing the hairpiece turns animated when speaking about Shares of Michael Kors Holdings Ltd. crease of sales via the ongoing conver- wasn’t using my shampoo. So we would Living Proof, the Boston-based hair-care jumped 8.8 percent Tuesday following sion of department store doors to shops- go outside and the rest of my hair would brand she bought into last October, and the firm’s report of a surge in third-quar- in-shop, is part of the firm’s blueprint for be totally tame and perfect, and the top whose first national ad campaign breaks ter profits and its increase in full-year growth. That’s in addition to plans for [wig] part — which I called my toupee — this week and features her. guidance expectations. bringing in-house its North American e- would just start to look like pubic hair. She acknowledges that buying into a For the fourth quarter, the company commerce business in February 2014 so It would take on a whole new texture of hair-care brand makes a certain sort of guided diluted earnings per share at be- it can create an omnichannel experience its own. I kept thinking, ‘This is funny. sense for her. “It’s nice when you feel tween 32 cents and 34 cents, on a total for customers, whether in-store or online. like you’re a part of something that will revenue range of $515 million to $525 Neiman Marcus has been operating make people’s day a little better,” she million and a comps increase of low to the Kors Web site, and the company will said, adding that she’d already been tell- mid-20 percent. begin the transition process. “In the long ing friends about Living Proof. “When For the full year, the company raised term, we expect e-commerce to be a mul- I’m into something, I love sharing it with its diluted EPS forecast to between $1.80 timillion dollar channel opportunity,” other people, whether it’s a face prod- and $1.82, on total revenues of $2.1 bil- Idol told analysts. While the figure sounds uct, a great pair of jeans or shampoo,” lion and a mid-30 percent comps gain. extremely low in the booming world of she said. “I’d be talking about this even That’s up from earlier projections of be- e-commerce, Idol did not provide any SEE PAGE 16 tween $1.48 and $1.50 on a revenue fore- SEE PAGE 6 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2013 WWD.COM

Babin Taking CEO Reins at Bulgari the Briefing Box lebrities including leonardo Dicaprio and Maria By Miles socha sharapova, has yet to be named. in Today’s WWd During his tenure at Tag, Babin oversaw the PaRis — lVMh Moët hennessy louis Vuitton on brand’s retail expansion, adding up to 30 stores per Tuesday appointed Jean-christophe Babin, Tag year. he also experienced chronic shortages for heuer’s longtime chief executive officer, as the new some of Tag’s top sellers, including the carrera and ceo at Bulgari. the ladies’ aquaracer. This confirms a report in WWD Jan. in one of the headline luxury deals 14 that Babin would take the manage- of 2011, lVMh took control of Bulgari in ment helm of the Roman jewelry house, a cash-and-share swap valued at more which falls under the watches and than $6 billion. jewelry division of lVMh headed by Babin’s appointment suggests Bulgari Francesco Trapani. Babin is expected to is keen to seize on its potential in watch- take up the post in the coming months. es, which Burke had characterized as Babin succeeds Michael Burke, “way below potential.” who headed Bulgari from February to This category — which in the past December 2012, when he was named to has been problematic at times for the

succeed Jordi constans as chairman and jeweler — is the second-largest business Matarazzo ceo of louis Vuitton. for Bulgari, which recently reined in the odd t of French and italian nationality, Jean-Christophe Babin expansion of its leather goods. Backstage at Babin is a graduate of the prestigious More than a decade ago, the firm so- Rodarte. For more, hec Business school in Paris. he started his ca- lidified its watchmaking back office, buying top sup- see WWD.com. Photo by reer in 1983 at Procter & Gamble in France in a va- pliers such as Gerald Genta and Daniel Roth, and riety of commercial and marketing roles, going on the labels’ production facilities, Manufacture de Shares of Michael Kors Holdings Ltd. jumped 8.8 percent to work for Benckiser and henkel in italy. haute horlogerie sa, which has allowed Bulgari to following the firm’s report of a surge in third-quarter profits and he joined Tag in 2000 and orchestrated what produce watches entirely in-house. its increase in full-year guidance expectations. PAGE 1 lVMh described as a“remarkable development.” organic revenues at lVMh’s watches and jew- his successor at the swiss watchmaker, famous elry division gained 6 percent in 2012 to 2.84 billion Jennifer Aniston sat down with WWD to talk about the hair- for sports watches and chronographs worn by ce- euros, or $3.65 billion at current exchange. care line and commercial she did for Living Proof, as well as her upcoming projects. PAGE 1

Bobbi Brown’s eyewear deal with Safilo Group signifies a broadening of the lifestyle brand. PAGE 4 Hermès Revenues Up 22.5 Percent in Q4 ed flagging demand in china, L’Oréal stock skyrocketed Tuesday, closing up 3.8 percent the By Joelle DiDeRich hermès said sales in Greater A diamond- day after the beauty giant published its 2012 results. PAGE 4 china rose 34 percent in the studded PaRis — hermès international fourth quarter and were up 28 Hermès Avon Products Inc.’s eye on cost cutting seems to have put the Jean-Christophe Babin said Tuesday it expected to post percent in 2012 as a whole. china Birkin bag. direct seller on the path toward stabilization. PAGE 4 a record operating margin in now accounts for 21 percent of its 2012 after comfortably beating overall revenues, versus 19 per- Topshop has planted its first location in Los Angeles as it revs its target for annual sales growth, cent a year ago. up expansion in the United States and abroad. PAGE 6 thanks to a surge in revenues in all geographic regions and the fourth quarter. sectors contributed to fourth- The U.S. Court of Appeals upheld a ruling that the U.S. Polo The maker of Birkin bags and quarter growth. Revenues in Association could be stopped from using a “double horseman” silk scarves said sales totaled the asia-Pacific region, exclud- logo on its fragrances. PAGE 6 1.04 billion euros, or $1.35 bil- ing Japan, were up 29.7 per- lion, in the fourth quarter, up cent at constant exchange rates, Longchamp saw revenues bound 16 percent last year to 454 22.5 percent versus 2011. This with Japan rising 15.1 percent, million euros, or $583.7 million at average exchange. PAGE 16 represented a rise of 18.5 percent europe gaining 11.6 percent and ith at constant exchange rates. the americas up 20.8 percent. M Two prominent U.S. senators delved into the debate over a U.S.- A diamond-studded Hermès Birkin “The hermès business is in sales of leather goods and

obin S European Union free-trade agreement on Tuesday. PAGE 17 bag. t excellent health,” chief executive saddlery, which account for al- y

b officer Patrick Thomas told WWD. most half the brand’s revenues, Hearst Magazines UK is the latest magazine publisher to try to Please use the following image “What we do is perfectly in were up 14.8 percent at constant to illustrate the story sync with the aspirations of con- exchange rates. Ready-to-wear Photo bridge the worlds of editorial and e-commerce, linking with The http://www.wwd.com/images/ sumers, first in europe and the and fashion accessories posted a than having a store with too little Hut Group. PAGE 17 processed/wwd/2012/03/04/ United states, now also in china, 25.5 percent rise, silk and textiles merchandise,” Thomas said. hermes-scoop/portrait/00-main/ since more and more chinese were up 18.9 percent, perfumes Despite all these positive New York Fashion Week parties on Monday included a post- bijou-birkin.jpg consumers are looking for dis- rose 19 percent and watches re- indicators, the executive said Marc by Marc Jacobs bash that the designer did not attend and a cretion and quality objects for corded a 20.2 percent increase. hermès was sticking to its long- fete that celebrated a Reed Krakoff-designed macaron. PAGE 18 pleasurable living, rather than sales in the “other hermès term forecast of 10 percent an- the ostentatious luxury that sym- sectors” division, which groups nual sales growth in 2013. Matt Damon is hardly a front-row fixture, so when the actor bolized the early days of luxury,” jewelry and home wares, were While currency fluctuations turned up at Naeem Khan’s runway show on he added. up 32.2 percent, boosted in part have worked in the company’s Tuesday afternoon, it caused quite a stir. PAGE 18 hermès reported revenues by Pierre hardy’s second fine favor for the last three years, gen- for 2012 as a whole rose 22.6 jewelry collection for the house, erating a positive impact of 178 percent to 3.48 billion euros, or which featured precious min- million euros, or $228.9 million, on WWD.CoM $4.48 billion. stripping out cur- iature renditions of the famed on 2012 sales, the trend will likely rency fluctuations, sales were Kelly and Birkin bags. be reversed this year, he noted. NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: See the latest runway, front up 16.4 percent, exceeding the hermès added two stores to “The strong euro is not going row and backstage images from New York Fashion Week company’s most recent target of its network in 2012 — in Taiwan to help us. secondly, the eco- at WWD.com/runway. 13 percent consolidated annual and china — and renovated or nomic outlook in France and the sales growth. expanded another six. rest of europe is not very bright. The French luxury goods firm in 2013, it plans to open just so we have to be cautious,” To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is is scheduled to report full-year one new store, in Ningbo, china, Thomas explained. [email protected], using The individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. earnings on March 21. and renovate another 11, in- Thomas said the euro was COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. “For the full year, given the cluding hermès china World in “still slightly overvalued,” but VOLUME 205, NO. 32. WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and excellent performance in the Beijing and the hermès flagship added it was difficult to deter- two additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance fourth quarter, the operating in Milan, which will be relocat- mine an optimal level for the Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, margin is expected to be slightly ed from Via sant’andrea to Via currency, which was trading at Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, above the all-time high achieved Montenapoleone, Thomas said. $1.32 and at 113.5 Japanese yen and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver in 2011,” it stated, referring to hermès will also open a store on Tuesday. Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North last year’s record operating mar- in Paris for its chinese luxury “a strong european currency Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. gin of 31.2 percent. brand, shang Xia, its first out- is a good thing, as it reflects the Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or hermès plans to pay an in- side of china. initially scheduled strength of the european econ- inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine terim dividend of 1.50 euros, or to launch at the end of 2012, the omy and it means the currency is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. $1.98, a share on March 1. boutique is now expected to open is well managed. i think the You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt The results came on the heels in september. european central Bank is doing of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request of figures showing sales at lVMh “The store has been in the what it needs to keep the euro for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at Moët hennessy louis Vuitton rose works for a year, but since the strong. Now it must not become www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that 12 percent in the fourth quar- demand in our stores in china — too strong, so there is a balance we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at ter, while revenues at Burberry in Beijing and shanghai — was to be found,” he said. P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED climbed 11.3 percent in the three stronger than we expected, and s hares in h ermès ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER months to Dec. 31. PPR is due to the supply chain is far from being international closed up 1.5 per- UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR publish full-year results Friday. completely secure, we preferred cent at 248.65 euros, or $328.60, DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A While competitors report- to defer the opening a little rather on the Paris stock exchange. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

w13a002a;7.indd 2 2/12/13 8:15 PM 02122013201548 T:10” T:13.875”

Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. ©2013 Maybelline LLC.

MCX3-10101118E MAYBELLINE COMPANY Bleed None Dir of Studio Svcs Chris Weston Corporate Trim 10” x 13.875” Dir of Graphic Svcs Stuart Turner Fashion Week February 2013 WWD - Safety None Project Manager Phil Krell Jessica Page Gutter None Account Exec Kathryn Burns Line Screen 100 Global Creative Dir Jane Mauksch 4/C Newspaper Non-bleed Page Lo/Hi Res Hi Creative Director Judy Wong WWD: Feb. 13, 2013 Paper Newsprint Art Director Tony Hanstad Proof # 1 Copywriter Robyn Dutra Revision Round 3 Proofreader Denni Heiges Operator: Huszcza, Ivona (NYC- Print/Export: 1-31-2013 11:38 AM Printed At: 100% Fonts: Helvetica Neue (55 Roman) PDF Sent To Images: MCX3-10101118E_Jessica_4CNP.tif (CMYK; 470 ppi; 63.8%), MAYNY05_POS_White.eps (60.63%), MNY-FW_2013_ Additional Specs: Spring_KO_No_URL.ai (142.93%) None Inks: Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black Notes: None 4 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2013 WWD.COM Bobbi Brown, Safilo Partner for Eyewear her inspirational message to men as well. in the early stages of product development, By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD The premium eyewear line is uni- expect a classic yet fashionable product, sex, which is another first for Brown, said Maureen Case, president of Bobbi BoBBI BRowN’S entrepreneurial spirit who relishes the opportunity to reach a Brown Cosmetics and Jo Malone London. is kicking into high gear. broader audience. According to Case, a Brown eyewear The makeup artist, who serves as “This is a way for me to prove I can have line will likely take cues from the brand’s founder and creative officer of Bobbi success in something else,” she offered. Tortoise eye shadow campaign, as well Brown Cosmetics, inked an eyewear deal Although the glasses can be worn by as the makeup artist’s own personal eye- with Safilo Group, marking the first time men, the focus is really on women, ac- wear collection. a major figure in the beauty industry has cording to Safilo’s chief executive officer, Known for her penchant for dark- launched an eyewear collection. Roberto Vedovotto, who noted that each rimmed, preppy optical looks, Brown Although the deal is with Brown, collection will be inspired by Brown’s launched a set of eye shadows in 2011 the individual, and not with the Estée seasonal makeup offering. inspired by a vintage pair of tortoise- Lauder Cos. Inc., the owner of Brown’s In essence the color of the frames will shell frames. The makeup, dubbed the namesake firm, the partnership signifies mirror Brown’s beauty color palette for Tortoise collection, was featured in an a broadening of the lifestyle brand. the season. advertising campaign that included a The deal marks the first time a figure in the “Anything I do outside of the company, I “we wanted to bring a new approach model who sported a smart pair of opti- beauty industry has launched eyewear. naturally get the support of Estée Lauder. to eyewear for women,” Vedovotto said, cal frames. That experience planted a They know I wouldn’t do anything if it explaining that Brown’s line will comple- seed in Brown to create eyewear. and health as well. didn’t better the brand,” Brown told wwD, ment a customer’s eye color, as well as “I saw it materialize in front of me,” “This is really the first time we’ve explaining that the jump into eyewear was her face shape and makeup choice. The Case said, who explained that she’s done something like this with one of our a “natural extension” from beauty. collection will range from $130 to $180 watched her friend’s brand grow into a brands,” Demsey said, explaining the “over the years, people have asked for sunglasses and from $160 to $200 lifestyle concept. “I told her now is a really “unique” nature of the deal with Brown. me to design jeans or shoes. That didn’t for optical. Sunglasses will hit stores in great time not to take your eye off the ball.” Calling the partnership a “win-win” make sense for me. This made sense for January and optical will be available in Case said Brown’s gift, to “help guide for all parties, Demsey noted that should me,” she said. “Being a beauty expert and spring 2014, the ceo said. women” find their “most flattering look,” Brown depart Lauder, she would still makeup artist, I’ve always been aware of The collection will be available first in is a talent she’ll be able to bring to the have a stake in the eyewear business. how glasses can transform a face. I want the U.S. and then worldwide in Bobbi Brown eyewear space. Just as with her makeup “Bobbi has for a long time wanted to to take the mystery out of how to choose doors, optical chains and department stores. line, Brown will include manuals that expand her brand into a lifestyle con- the right glasses for your face.” “we are always interested in finding help consumers find the best frames. cept. This is a great opportunity for her The idea of transformation via beauty important brands,” the Safilo executive According to Estée Lauder group to test the waters to see how great her or eyewear carries the same empowering said. “Bobbi is very good at what she president John Demsey, this product bandwidth is,” he offered. “It’s in con- message to women. For this optical and does and very successful.” extension likely won’t be the last for cert with Bobbi as an entrepreneur and sunglass collection, Brown is hoping to take Although both Safilo and Brown are still Brown, who is passionate about wellness a businesswoman.” McCoy Touts Avon Trajectory L’Oréal Shares Up After Results knowledged that North America “remains there is a strategic reason for it.” By MoLLy PRIoR challenging,” noting that new products and By JENNIFER wEIL In 2012, New Markets (grouping holiday offerings failed to resonate with con- geographic zones such as the Asia- SINCE hER arrival in April, Avon Products Inc. sumers. “we need to improve our marketing PARIS — L’oréal stock traded high- Pacific region and Eastern Europe) chief executive officer Sheri McCoy has worked and merchandising execution.” She later er on the Paris Bourse Tuesday, for the first time generated more to wring out costs, and the strategy seems to added, “This is a complex business and it closing up 3.8 percent the day after sales than western Europe and have put the company on more solid ground. will take time to fix, but we are committed the French beauty giant published North America. however, New “we have early signs of stabilization in to taking whatever steps are necessary to re- its 2012 results. Markets’ growth on a like-for-like some key markets, a strong management turn the U.S. market to health.” It was the CAC 40’s biggest gain- basis was 9.2 percent over 2011, team in place and a disciplined approach to McCoy said the company aims to “slow the er on Tuesday, when the company’s representing a slowdown versus cost and cash management,” McCoy told ana- decline” in the U.S. and make it less of a drag shares finished at 112.05 euros, or prior years. lysts during the company’s earnings call on on earnings while continuing to shift its focus $150.81 at current exchange. “we’re starting 2013 with the in- Tuesday. “we have a lot of work to do, and as to developing markets. Asked by an analyst if Jean-Paul Agon, L’oréal chair- tention of returning to double-digit we move forward into 2013 there are likely Avon would consider exiting the U.S., McCoy man and chief executive officer, growth in New Markets,” main- to be a few bumps along the way. But with said Avon is focused on “optimizing our geog- said he expects the firm to outper- tained Agon. that said, I’m confident that we’re in a good raphies and understanding the role that each form the cosmetics market again over in North America, L’oréal’s position to continue making progress toward of the geographies plays” and then investing in 2013. he estimated the cosmet- 2012 sales gained 18.3 percent our goals.” behind faster-growing markets. ics market grew 4.6 percent in in reported terms to 5.21 billion In the fourth quarter, the company’s net Across Avon’s remaining regions, sales 2012 and could rise 4 percent to 5 euros, or $6.7 billion. loss attributable to Avon widened for the quarter in Latin America percent this year. Agon addition- Frédéric Rozé, president and to $162.2 million, or 37 cents a di- gained 2 percent to $1.33 billion; ally anticipated that L’oréal will ceo of L’oréal USA, said: “The luted share, compared with a loss sales in Europe, the Middle East increase profits and sales in 2013. U.S. presents a growth opportunity of $400,000, or nil on a per-share and Africa increased 1 percent he addressed financial analysts because our market share in the basis, in the year-ago period. The to $905.8 million, and in Asia- and journalists gathered Tuesday region is still lower than that of quarter ended Dec. 31 included a Pacific, sales declined 3 percent morning during a three-hour meet- western Europe. Across divisions, restructuring charge of $58 mil- to $246.6 million. Avon continues ing at L’oréal’s offices in the Paris we have 14 percent market shares lion related to Avon’s cost-cutting to struggle in China — with rev- headquarters at Clichy. against 20 percent in Europe.” plan, which has included trim- enue sliding 23 percent — where As reported, the company’s 2012 he described the American ming head count by about 1,500, the bulk of its business is done net profits were up 17.6 percent to market as “very dynamic” in 2012 closing several distribution cen- through a beauty-boutique-sell- 2.87 billion euros, or $3.69 billion. and predicted it will remain so. ters and exiting both South Korea ing model. Its operating income rose 12.3 per- Another growth driver for and Vietnam. During the call, McCoy was cent to 3.7 billion euros, or $4.75 L’ oréal overall has been e-com- Adjusted earnings of 37 asked to also defend the direct- billion, while sales increased 10.4 merce, whose sales grew about 30 cents a share came in 10 cents selling model in Asia. She re- percent to 22.46 billion euros, or percent last year. better than the 27 cents ana- sponded, “Asia is certainly a very $22.88 billion. on a like-for-like Meanwhile, the cost of digi- lysts projected. Sheri McCoy important region.” Citing macro basis, L’oréal revenues advanced tal represented 9.5 percent of The company’s total revenue factors such as population growth, 5.5 percent. L’ oréal’s net media expenses in in the quarter declined 1.3 percent to $3 bil- she added, “we have an opportunity to do a Dollar figures were calculated 2012, against 8 percent in 2011 and lion, from $3.04 billion, but ticked up 1 per- lot more there. If you look at competition, at average exchange for the 12- approximately 5 percent in 2010, cent in constant dollars. there are a number of very successful direct month period. according to Christian Mulliez, the The results sent Avon’s shares up 20.3 per- sellers, and direct selling makes sense and L’ oréal also revealed a share- company’s executive vice president cent to $20.79 on Tuesday. works there.…Certainly I have my sights on buyback plan amounting to 500 of administration and finance. Avon Beauty sales declined 2 percent, or Asia-Pacific. Right now we’re stabilizing some million euros, or $673.1 million at Looking ahead, Agon said L’oréal gained 1 percent in constant dollars. on a of our other key markets.” current exchange, for the first half is prepared for the March 11 ban on reported basis, fragrance was flat, color and For the year, the net loss attributable to of this year. the import and sale of animal-tested personal care declined 1 percent and skin Avon was $42.5 million, or 10 cents a diluted The company’s net cash level cosmetics products and ingredients care declined 5 percent. share, compared with a gain of $513.6 million, more than tripled by year-end in the European Union. The company’s U.S. business remained or $1.18, in the prior year. Total revenue de- 2012, when it reached 1.58 billion “we have rolled out, discovered a drag on earnings. Total revenue in North clined 5.1 percent to $10.72 billion, compared euros, or $2.03 billion at average new processes to replace tests that America decreased 12 percent to $516.2 mil- with $11.29 billion. exchange. were mandatory on ingredients, lion, driven by a decline in active representa- Ross said, “Looking forward to 2013, we Agon said L’oréal is open to a using alternative methods, and tives and the Silpada jewelry business, which remain focused on driving sales, operating strategic acquisition. we’ve also organized ourselves up- declined 18 percent. Avon said it is exploring profit and cash flow improvement. we are “If there is a serious [acquisi- stream in order to meet this regula- “strategic alternatives” for Silpada, which managing to a very conservative level of sales tion target] on the market that tory change,” he said. “we’ve antic- the company acquired in 2010 for $650 mil- growth, and we are putting measures in place makes sense for L’oréal, we will ipated, so that it doesn’t weigh on lion. Silpada generated $155 million in sales to drive the necessary sustainable recovery, have both the wherewithal and the our innovation capabilities.” in 2012, according to Avon. but we aren’t going to get ahead of ourselves guts to go and do it,” he said, add- Agon reiterated L’oréal is looking Kimberly Ross, Avon’s executive vice until we witness clear signs of sustainable im- ing later: “we only want to make to the future, and 2013 in particular, president and chief financial officer, ac- provement in key markets.” acquisitions when we feel that “with optimism and confidence.”

w13a004a;3.indd 4 2/12/13 6:46 PM 02122013184715

6 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13 , 2013 WWD.COM

ping suite in the U.S. and a shoe sign director Gordon Richardson section constructed of glass dis- didn’t expect Los Angeles to be Topshop Steams Ahead on West Coast play cases illuminated by a big an exception. In fact, he antici- skylight overhead. pated Topman to do better from By RACHEL BROWN Inside the new unit. Although he described busi- the start in Los Angeles because ness at Topshop’s Las Vegas lo- it has become more well known. LOS ANGELES — On the heels of cation as merely “OK,” Green “Across the States, the most suc- its deal with Los Angeles-based expressed confidence that the cessful [Topman] is in New York. Leonard Green & Partners, Los Angeles unit would become The hardest of our four stores is Topshop has planted its first loca- a robust performer. Judging by Chicago. Ver y often, it has the tion here as it revs up expansion The Grove’s roughly $1,400 in slower build,” said Richardson. in the U.S. and abroad. annual sales per square foot, Suiting has been a standout Opening Thursday, the it is estimated Topshop could category for Topman in the U.S., 30,000-square-foot store at generate as much as $42 million where Richardson acknowledged Caruso Affiliated’s The Grove is yearly at the shopping center. denim is extremely competitive. Topshop’s second on the West “The feeling generally seems He said Topman is filling a gap Coast and fourth in the U.S. A to be very strong,” said Green. “A in the market for “affordable, highly visible store at a corner in good percentage of our Internet young, fashionable, edgy suiting” FOR MORE one of the country’s most highly IMAGES, SEE business that we have been ship- for men who can’t afford or don’t trafficked shopping centers, it want to pay two to three times will be a crucial test on the West WWD.com/ more for suits from designer Coast for Topshop, which is strat- retail-news. labels. To build on its suc- egizing to become a serious re- cess in suiting, Topman has tail contender nationwide. introduced a Lux collection Before visiting the Los are not going to go and do crazy stores. Green said, “That business of elevated suiting in the Los Angeles store Wednesday morn- things. We are going to go care- will significantly grow in terms Angeles store. Lux suits are ing, Topshop owner Sir Philip fully and cherry-pick locations. of outlets over the next three to priced at about $600, as com- Green called it a “landmark.” We will take our time.” six months. I’ll be surprised if it pared to about $400 for most “It certainly looks very, very Topshop is eyeing major cities doesn’t at least double.” of Topman’s suits. strong. The object is opening in the U.S. for future locations. Outside of the U.S., Topshop Supporting Richardson’s flagship stores, but you want Green mentioned San Francisco, has been pushing its units take on Topman, Green said, something individual for each Miami, Boston and Washington, around the world. Currently, it “Our men’s formalwear busi- market. [Caruso Affiliated presi- D.C., as possibilities, but said has 324 stores in the U.K., with ness is still very strong.” dent and chief executive officer] leases had not been signed in another 145 international stores Speaking about Topshop, Rick Caruso has given us a lot those cities. Topshop is also look- in 38 countries. In partnership which changes up its mer- of help. Having the whole end ing for a second location in New with Lane Crawford’s retail sub- chandise with 300 new of the street, we really created York. Asked about Topshop’s sidiary Lab Concept, Topshop pieces weekly, Green went something special,” he said. spread in malls, Green said, “If will enter Hong Kong with a on, “Our business is pretty Green’s schedule during you go across America, there will store opening in May. China stable. I’ve got a very good his trip to Los Angeles reflects be 15, 20, 25 malls you want to be is definitely on Green’s radar. SARDELLA DONATO team that is close to the mar- Topshop’s expansion mind-set. in, the key ones, and the others “We are still engaged in a lot The store’s exterior. ket. I’ve got 50 designers and, you have to be choosy about.” of conversations about China. therefore, hopefully, they get On top of checking in on the PHOTOS BY Los Angeles store and attend- The smallest Topshop unit in We haven’t made up our minds, the trends right. Touch wood, ing its opening festivities, Green the U.S. is Las Vegas at 22,000 but this is an ongoing dialogue,” ping from the U.K. has been so far it is working. Each market worked in meetings with LGP square feet, and Green empha- said Green. “A lot of our interna- California-based shipments. I is slightly different, and we are and Nordstrom, where Topshop sized he is committed to keeping tional markets have new stores think people are starting to know learning. The weather here is now has 14 in-store shops. It was Topshop’s footprints in the U.S. coming on. Hong Kong will be us here. Yo u have a lot of people obviously kinder, so it has got to revealed in December that LGP relatively large. “If we are going our 39th market. We have stores who travel internationally, so be a slightly different mix.” purchased a 25 percent stake in to build something special, and under development in Canada, they know the brands. Obviously, In the year ended Aug. 25, the Topshop and Topman with the we are going to show both brands, Australia, Brazil and places like there is a big university student latest period for which Topshop aim of increasing the retailer’s Topshop and Topman, in the way Kazakhstan and Azerbaijan.” population here, and we have parent Arcadia Group released U.S. sales to $1 billion and dou- we want in big markets, then we As for Los Angeles, the two- been working on the campuses financial results, the company bling global sales over the next want to do it properly,” he said. level store housed in a former of the different universities.” swung to profit, but sales edged three to four years. “There is no point in coming in Banana Republic space has an Additionally, he noted that down 0.1 percent. At the mo- In his talks with LGP about and doing 5,000 square feet.” enormous gleaming white store- sales in Topshop’s in-store ment, Green said, “Business is Topshop locations in the U.S., Before the next Topshop front broken up by glass doors shop at Nordstrom in Orange OK. I don’t want to make excuses, Green said, “They felt the poten- stand-alone unit opens in the that span both floors. Topshop County’s South Coast Plaza but we have some pretty bizarre tial was we could open 50 stores. I U.S., it is likely that there will occupies two-thirds of the store. “have been excellent. It is one U.K. weather like you have had had always been thinking slightly be more in-store Nordstrom lo- Topman, accounting for the re- of our best-performing stores.” in America. [It’s] not helpful.” less. We are open-minded about cations. Nordstrom has brought mainder, is housed on the sec- Topman has been a sales Turning his attention back to the what the opportunities are, but in the Topshop merchandise to ond floor. Unique to the store growth vehicle at Topshop- Los Angeles store, he continued, we still want to be picky. We attract younger customers to its are the largest personal shop- Topman stores, and Topman de- “I prefer looking at the sky here.”

Kors Profits Surge With Store Growth Ralph Lauren Wins Polo Appeal {Continued from page one} The ceo also said the number- as a significant opportunity for further guidance and a spokes- one driver of comps during the us over the long term.” ADD ANOTHER notch for Lauren’s marks. At the same woman declined to elaborate. holiday season was “small leather A new store lease in New Ralph Lauren in the protract- time, the court did permit the For the three months ended goods,” with handbags showing York’s SoHo is slightly larger in ed battle of the polo ponies. use of a mounted polo player Dec. 29, net income was $130 mil- strong acceleration in the quarter, square footage compared with The U.S. Court of Appeals on the polo association’s mer- lion, or 64 cents a diluted share, as well as strength in the watch others. Idol said that’s part of upheld an earlier ruling in chandise as long as it didn’t which quadrupled from $32 mil- business driving licensing income. a larger review of 10 locations March that the U.S. Polo cause consumer confusion. lion, or 20 cents, last year. Total Also showing strong perfor- around the world — including Association could be stopped Twenty-two years later, a revenues rose 70.4 percent to mance was the company’s new New York and London. The larger from using a “double horse- New York federal jury quib- $636.8 million from $373.6 million. jewelry business, of which Idol format, particularly at the SoHo man” logo on its fragrances be- bled over the double horse- Revenues comprised a 71.5 per- said “we think we’re at the very site, allows the company the op- cause it was confusingly similar man image and decided that if cent gain in net sales to $606.9 mil- beginning stages of what could tion of fuller presentations of its to Ralph Lauren’s trademarks. it included text that identified lion and a 52.1 percent increase in develop into a significant busi- different businesses, as well as to “The court agreed that the it as a USPA product, it did not licensing revenue to $29.8 million. ness for us globally.” test a growing men’s collection. In United States Polo Association count as infringement. A solid By segment, its retail sales rose 67 For the nine months, income addition, the SoHo store will fea- acted in bad faith in adopting double horseman without text, percent to $333 million, as compa- rose three-and-a-half times to ture a floor dedicated to women’s its double horsemen logo on fra- however, did count as infringe- rable store-sales rose 41 percent $296.5 million, or 64 cents a di- ready-to-wear, Idol said. grances and infringed on Ralph ment, the jury found. on a global basis. luted share, on a 71.8 percent At the end of the quarter, the Lauren’s polo player marks,” a That decision was upheld By geography, North American revenue gain to $1.58 billion. company operated 297 retail Ralph Lauren spokesman said on appeal in 2008. In the most revenues rose 67 percent to $573 Shares of Michael Kors closed stores, including concessions, Tuesday. “We will continue to recent case concerning fra- million, with comps up 41 percent, at $62 in trading on the Big Board. versus 231 retail stores, includ- vigorously defend against any grances, the Court of Appeals representing the 27th consecutive The company said it entered ing concessions, a year ago. attempt to infringe on our intel- argued that just because the quarter of comp-store growth in into a joint venture agree- Including licensed locations, lectual property rights.” polo association could use the region. European revenues ment with Exclusive Brands there were 388 Michael Kors The U.S. Polo Association, the logo for apparel, it didn’t in the period rose 112 percent to International to create MK stores worldwide at the end of which had previously been mean it “acted in good faith” $58 million, with comps rising 58 Panama Holdings, which will the third quarter of fiscal 2013. granted the use of the logo on in using the mark on fra- percent. In Japan revenues rose enable Kors to expand its re- Idol said he believes there apparel, has been locking mal- grances. In other words, the 103 percent to $6 million, while tail and wholesale presence in is a “long-term potential for 400 lets with the fashion brand over appeals court agreed with the comps rose 11 percent. Central and South America, as locations” in North America, the use of the double horseman lower court’s prior ruling in Idol said gross margin ex- well as the Caribbean. as well as 100 retail doors in trademark for 29 years. March that the polo associa- panded “80 basis points to 60.2 Idol told analysts the compa- Europe, including concessions, In 1984 a Manhattan fed- tion adopted the mark with the percent for the quarter, driven ny is also “thoughtfully expand- and 2,000 wholesale doors. He eral court enjoined the U.S. “intention of capitalizing” on primarily by lower markdowns ing our men’s wear collection in believes the retail network in Polo Association from using its Ralph Lauren’s “reputation” as our luxury products continue both our retail and wholesale Japan can support 100 store lo- “name or marks in a way likely and products. to generate strong sell-throughs.” channels and see men’s leather cations, including concessions. to cause confusion” with Ralph — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD Photo: Sachin & Babi Photo:

FROM RUNWAY TO MARKET IN LESS TIME

where brands and retailers do business online jooraccess.com 8 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2013

Tor y Burch: Gustav Klimt wasn’t high on Tory Burch’s favorite-artists Tor y Burch list until she started frequenting the Neue Galerie. One such excur- sion a while back turned into a lightbulb-on moment. Drawn to the rich palette and patterns of Klimt’s portraits, Burch delved into a study of Art Nouveau. Her research led to the strong collection she showed on Tuesday morning. Burch worked the motif with the utmost subtlety, her measured approach not surprising given that unlike designers who make an editorial splash and then spend years trying to figure out how the heck to make something wearable, she started with a few monster commercial hits, from there building a line with ample editorial appeal. So no literal Adele Bloch-Bauer worship here. Rather, Burch took her moody colors from Klimt’s work and focused on the blending of textures and patterns. She sent the message from the start with a loosely cut beaded beige-and-black herringbone coat over a satin dress with tonal embroidery. Almost every look had some kind of overt surface interest going on — whether a satin T-shirt with elaborate gold appliqués and a printed skirt, a sweater with a geometric knit in front and beetle print in back or numerous Nouveau-esque swirling florals. With so much to look at, Burch kept her shapes simple but diverse. One could find a full wardrobe’s wealth of clothes, from sexy sheaths to dresses with waisted bodices and fluid skirts to a chic suit with a square-ish jacket and slim skirt. It was all pretty, interesting and wearable, three characteristics that added up to one very smart collection.

Vera Wang: With so many contemporary labels edging closer to the aesthetic of high fashion, what can a luxury designer do to set her work apart visually? It’s a question Vera Wang has been pondering, and for fall she answered it with a collection that provided a lovely study on luxurious fabrics, volume and silhouettes, referencing several couture concepts. “It’s really about the exploration of old-fashioned dressmaking techniques and the construction of clothes that we haven’t been known for other than in bridal,” Wang said backstage before her show. The designer’s main silhouette was the egg shape. It was a nod to Cristóbal , but Wang often rendered the look distinctly in layered constructions of multiple pieces — a jacket over a shift dress, for instance — featuring deep armholes with low, inset pockets. She repeated the shape throughout the show, from a minimal take in just two fabrics to more elaborate, constructed versions like a glittery jeweled top teamed with a voluminous folded skirt. The precision of execution was impressive, but Wang overstated the point — even some of her hemlines mimicked the oval egg lines. Couture touches were also demonstrated via Japanese NEW YORK COLLECTIONS influences, namely intricate origami cuts and a gathered kimono dress with a focus on volume in the back. They were beautiful, as were her fabric combos; Chantilly lace, for instance, was mixed with metallic Fall 2013 brocade on a shift dress, topped with a draped brocade skirt. It offered a fresh and youthful take on DESIGNERS CELEBRATED EVERYTHING FROM evening, as did the jacquard draped CALIFORNIA COUNTERCULTURE TO A BIG dresses in a bold orange-and-purple rose motif that ended the show on ANNIVERSARY ON THE MOST RECENT RUNWAYS. an electric note. WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2013 9 WWD.COM

Rodarte: Kate and Laura Mulleavy Rodarte Dennis Basso are not the only designers in the big leagues who hail from California, but they are on the short list of those who still reside there. The Mulleavys’ connection to California is thicker than water and has bled into beautiful collections in the past. The California condor one of spring 2010 comes to mind. Their fall lineup also fell close to the hometown tree, with the designers flying the flag for the outer-limits charm of West Coast free spirits while making a real effort to show something that earthlings will buy and wear. “It’s based on a town we grew up in, Santa Cruz,” said Laura Mulleavy, her tone implying that Santa Cruz is practically unheard of, never mind that for decades it has been an epicenter for surf and skate culture, which was the genesis of the collection. A progression from chic street to high boardwalk began with a series of black and nude looks, the first of which featured a luxe oversize suede trench worn over a tight bodysuit and black textured cropped pants that sat so low, the model’s bare hipbones jutted out, a recurring effect. Working in solid neutrals grounded some of the dreamy moments — i.e., the silk jumpsuit with a sheer tulle back embroidered with angel wings — without sinking them. Then it was onto the trippy side of Cali, wherein the Mulleavys imaginatively dressed up lowbrow stoner staples. There was tie-dye for evening in fluid, colorful silk gowns, some of which were topped with angular “foam” collars in white, black or nude, while others merged tie-dye skirts with crimson, rose-embroidered tulle. A terrific graphic sweater and matching slim skirt with fringed trim seemed a fancier cousin of the Baja. The show ended with a parade of acid wash, whether as real denim, such as “shorts” that were really cropped pants shown unzipped up the side, or filmy printed silks like the wispy one-shouldered chiffon dresses. Throughout, Rodarte’s high- end Hell’s Angels wore barbed crowns and necklaces, and sheer tattoo socks with art by celebrity tattoo artist Scott Campbell.

Dennis Basso: After 30 years in business, Dennis Basso’s anniversary show made it abundantly clear that he has become more than a furrier. His eveningwear collection for fall was just as strong as those delightfully indulgent toppers for which he’s known. Winning looks included pretty long- sleeve lace sheaths, full-skirted short dresses in plaid taffetas and graceful gowns in hand- embroidered lace or tulle. When Basso did use furs, he often worked them sparingly. Shoulder wraps came in a fox-and-velvet mix while a reversible sable vest looked chic over a silver plaid- and-tweed sheath. Ye t a Basso show is never complete without his major outerwear. This time a slate blue chinchilla anorak and an evergreen sable coat were perfect examples of the FOR MORE REVIEWS designer’s new lighter touch. AND PHOTOS, SEE His only misstep was when WWD.com/ he included some armorlike alligator skin on coats and vests. runway. MITRA GIANNONI AND ROBERT GIOVANNI JOHN AQUINO, While it worked on his totes, it felt out of sync with the romantic

PHOTOS BY and sensual feel of the show. 10 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2013

Badgley Mischka Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc by Marc Jacobs

COLLECTIONS FALL NEW YORK 2013

Badgley Mischka: Mark Badgley their beautifully simple, one- chose to mine the decade again, colorfully clashing prints — and was an element of Jacobs grunge and James Mischka found an shoulder gowns in oxblood and except that this time he explored at least a little glam. The short in a plaid car coat and rumpled ideal muse, many of them, black matte jersey. the polished side of the retro satin numbers toward the finale sweater, countered by some shots actually, in of Alfred Day and evening were genre with simple, covered-up hinted at a party, but not as of fancy, like a vivid red overcoat Hitchcock’s films, including bridged with lovely jeweled dresses and tailored separates much as the models’ wild curly and crocodile-embossed belts. Grace Kelly, Tippi Hedren cashmere twinsets, one in black that highlighted the responsible manes and glossy red lips, both and Kim Novak. The looks over a full red-and-black damask side of the youthful Marc by worn with every look to infuse Diesel Black Gold: “American were most arresting when kept skirt, another in taupe with a Marc girl. She has grown up and the collection with disco spirit. Biker” was the theme of unembellished or rendered smoky metallic tweed pencil gotten a job, perhaps even one Jacobs’ men, meanwhile, creative director Andreas with controlled glamour, à la skirt. They would have done a that requires a suit, such as the looked as if they’d taken a trip Melbostad’s pre-fall debut at the smoking, although pairing Hitchcock heroine proud. cute navy pin-striped cropped down the aisles of a Seventies-era Diesel Black Gold. He revved them with scarves at the neck style worn by Catherine McNeil. Goodwill store for his marriage things up even more for fall as Raf Simons did for his Marc by Marc Jacobs: The It would not be the Seventies of patterned shirts, turtlenecks with his “Need for Speed” spring collection was a Seventies are a sartorial moment without the signature ruddy and wide-legged trousers. Suits collection, which he showed on styling mistake. One might in time that Marc Jacobs loved, color palette — shown here in silk blends had a somewhat a gritty pier along the Hudson have recalled Madame Grès and loves to relive. So it should in shades of orange, red and lurid satiny sheen, accented by River. “I really liked what we when the designers sent out have come as no surprise that he blue as well as some graphic, the models’ finger jewelry. There had created so I wanted to WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2013 11 WWD.COM

Diesel Black Gold Elie Tahari Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown

FOR MORE REVIEWS AND PHOTOS, SEE WWD.com/ runway. MITRA GEORGE CHINSEE, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY give it a bigger platform,” said oil dripping down a wool coat. modern life. Save for a funnel- military references throughout. “Duck Dynasty” and “Finding Melbostad backstage after This collection is not for the faint neck blouse or two, there Skinny suits, topcoats and Bigfoot” into a refined outdoorsy the show. His girl is a badass, of heart, but it’s just the sort of wasn’t a lick of white here, but narrow pants were at the heart, collection. The duo again toned plain and simple. She likes her verve the label has needed. the clothes did offer a sense and leather-trimmed toggle down the playfully awry Duckie clothes sharply tailored and cut of protection, from the lush coats and large herringbone- Brown aesthetic to suit the close to the body. She prefers Elie Tahari: For Elie Tahari’s shearling coats in black and printed scarves added interest. more contemporary and elegant black, loves leather and if you fall presentation, artist Gisela rich green, to the pretty skating This collection demonstrated Perry Ellis look. Camouflage get in her way she’ll knock you Stromeyer’s sculptural tent coats and skirts that would look that Tahari has a recharged was the season’s big theme, done sideways with the monster studs installations were lit from lovely gliding across a frozen engine as he looks to build on in sophisticated tonal shades that decorated sleeves, pant within and placed around pond. While the collection was his creative and commercial on outerwear like Mac jackets, legs and dresses. Accessories the interior of the designer’s outerwear-heavy, there were power base. anoraks and a fishtail parka. An included ankle-wrap pointy Fifth Avenue flagship. Tahari some lady-killer dresses in appealing paisley print made pumps and small clutches with said they were the perfect splash-art prints and versions Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown: For an appearance on a bomber bullets dangling from one side. backdrop to his Urban Winter in leather and wool combos. their sophomore effort at Perry jacket, while army-green fabrics, Melbostad also played with collection, which came to him For his Elie Tahari man, Ellis by Duckie Brown, Steven quilting and military details fabric finishes by staining denim while thinking about frozen the designer continued on that Cox and Daniel Silver channeled rounded out this tasteful but and using a wax coating to mimic snowy tundras colliding with same aesthetic, but sprinkled down-market reality shows like safe lineup. 12 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2013

Zero + Mario Cornejo Reem Acra J. Crew

J. Crew

COLLECTIONS FALL NEW YORK 2013

Zero + Maria Cornejo: “This col- were mixed with the jacquards featured on sexy black dresses “What to do? What to do?” he featured elaborate silk hand- lection is all about paring down to stunning effect. and gorgeous delicate beading wondered. Luckily, he had embroidery in an exotic tile to what is essential,” read As this season was more decorated full gowns and lean, been in Marrakech, where pattern. It was worn with a pink- Maria Cornejo’s program notes. about fabric than ever before, sculpted dresses. While Acra he observed the city’s colors, and-gold floral jacquard pencil This may refer to less draping Cornejo also offered a few is known for her embellished textures and stylistic mix of skirt and a classic neat blazer. and more structure than in past knockout monotone looks, eveningwear, this season she djellaba worn under tailored There were also two knockout seasons, but Cornejo has lost including a kimono jacket in mixed in some chic day numbers, blazers. This mix-and-match tailored coats, a bonded camel none of the arresting ways she a lacquered, pleated techno including great kimono-shaped ethos dovetailed seamlessly wool style with exaggerated works with fabrics and shapes. material over a silk shirt and jackets, embroidered bombers, with what J. Crew is about, and lapels traced in big rhinestones, Her textures, especially the leather pants, all in oxblood. leather-and-suede jodhpurs and the resulting collection was and a black wool one with a red woven jacquards in red or blue furry outerwear. one of the brand’s most vibrant, graphic silk print bonded to with black, informed the varied Reem Acra: Inspired by a recent ornate and expensive-looking the body. “When you’re doing proportions of her simplified, trip to Japan and a series J. Crew: After last season’s in a while. Mora did a great job the perfect coat, the perfect gracefully curved coats and of fishnet-stocking photos by show, Tom Mora, J. Crew’s translating exoticism into his pant, the perfect blazer, you pants. Structured shearling Daido Moriyama, Reem Acra head of women’s design, took American parameters, elevating really have to think about jackets and waistcoats in solid showed a collection full of fun a big vacation and returned them while doing so. A navy- fabrications and textures,” brushed mohair and alpaca details. Fishnet inserts were to his fall drawing board. and-burgundy cashmere sweater said Mora, who clearly did his WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2013 13 WWD.COM

Victoria Tim Coppens Wes Gordon Victoria Beckham

FOR MORE REVIEWS AND PHOTOS, SEE WWD.com/ runway. MITRA JENNA GREENE, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY homework on vacation. Victoria Victoria Beckham: For standouts included an oversize pants cinched at the bottom. submissive types but rather Men’s wear designer her fall secondary collection, sweatshirt worn with a pleated Graffiti prints, statement zippers fabulously spoiled party girls — Frank Muytjens, on the other Victoria Beckham tossed out skirt, and sequined dresses that and closures, and leather young and rich, rich, rich. He hand, looked to the English her familiar feminine look for a also resembled separates. paneling details elevated the didn’t skimp on color or fabrics countryside for his lineup decidedly more boyish feel, and aesthetic to designer sportswear — from the golden metallic of tweeds, herringbones and to great results. Crisp shirting Tim Coppens: In a season where territory. With this successful brocade of a voluminous jacket black watch fabrics. They was layered under some looks, chic athleticism rules for men, debut, Coppens continues to lined in a blue-and-white silk were worked on slim-cut suits, while men’s wear tailoring was Tim Coppens shines. The former lead the pack of men’s wear men’s print to the red and purple including a new model, the employed throughout on wool RLX and Adidas designer’s names who are redefining velvet Manolo Blahnik booties. Ludlow Fielding, featuring vests and structured dresses. first runway show delivered American fashion. The designer, who’s 26 and lives extra detailing on the lapel Attention to effortless dressing a youthful yet focused effort in New York, has an eye for and a throat latch. Athletic was key. “Get in, zip up and go,” centered on iconic, athletic Wes Gordon: Wes Gordon was what eveningwear means to his influences — beaten-up one- quipped Beckham backstage, street classics. Examples initially thinking about “a peers: a little bit rock — e.g., the off sweatpants and formfitting referring to the dresses that included bomber jackets and modern harem” when designing leather scarf tops layered under sweatshirts — added a youthful looked like top-and-skirt combos parkas with voluminous sleeves, his fall collection. Something tailoring — and a little drama, touch, while updated Fair Isle until the long zippers down sweatshirts embellished with must have changed, because as in a satin opera jacket that sweaters offered a pop of color. the back were revealed. Other graphic prints and sleek dress his models did not look like bloomed over skinny pants. 14 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2013 WWD.COM

Naeem Adam Araks Khan Lippes

COLLECTIONS FALL NEW YORK 2013

FOR MORE REVIEWS AND PHOTOS, SEE WWD.com/ runway. MITRA GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT GIOVANNI JOHN AQUINO, ANTONOV, PASHA

PHOTOS BY Catherine Malandrino Sophie Steven Theallet Naeem Khan: With inspirations the hands of Lippes they were Theallet explored a casual, Alan that ranged from the Byzantine more streamlined and shirtlike. old-time elegance for fall. Empire to illustrations of the From elevated track pants to Lightweight wool flannel shirts, Twenties, Naeem Khan managed a minimal white long-sleeve pants and dresses had a subtle to connect the periods with a gown, the lineup was full of men’s wear feel, while colorful rich collection of evening gowns great, easy pieces — a welcome knits — chunky sweaters and and little cocktail dresses. return to fashion. flared skirts — added a sportif Sometimes they were delicately pop. Theallet’s attention to beautiful, like the simple black Araks: Large floral motifs, wave detail made these pieces special: georgette dresses with crystal prints and surfboard and scuba selvage finishes and contrast beading encrusting the collars, details played major roles in fabrics placed in strategic waists and cuffs, but other Araks Yeramyan Andrews’ lineup. locations like the side of the body moments bordered on garish. Inspired by nighttime in Hawaii, to flatter the figure. While lovely Cue the panne velvet jacket and the designer worked the ideas and understated, the lineup dresses covered in antique gold into beautifully sculpted jackets, lacked the vibrant energy that is ottoman embroidery. dresses, tops and pants done typically more characteristic of Khan took a younger approach in a dark palette (bottle green, Theallet’s brand. to evening with the embroidered purplish-blue, brown) meant coats worn over delicate to mimic moonlight. Yeramyan Steven Alan: With jazz playing in Chantilly lace bow blouses and Andrews manipulated her bonded the background at his Lincoln skinny tuxedo trousers. And his fabrics with expert pleating and Center debut, Steven Alan was in signature beaded numbers were tucking for rounded forms and a sentimental mood, looking to the still in full force — a smart move employed curved seaming — to effortless style of greats like John with the Oscars less than two mirror a surfboard’s silhouette — Coltrane and Miles Davis. “I grew weeks away. for extra shape on dresses. Even up here in New York,” said Alan. the ends of sleeves featured fluid “So that ease of wearing a T-shirt Adam Lippes: After a year-long “fins” like those on the bottom of under a suit jacket or a casual absence from the industry, a board. bomber jacket with trousers felt Adam Lippes bought back the right.” His women’s looks leaned rights to his name and returned Catherine Malandrino: With boyish with jaunty pantsuits and with a designer collection French Art Deco on her mind, slouchy cashmere turtlenecks for fall. His own take on Catherine Malandrino played layered over shirtdresses and slim American sportswear featured with geometric patterns and lean pants, all paired with Chelsea a juxtaposition of tailored yet lines for fall. Day dresses and boots and wedges, and structured relaxed separates — or “sporty, sexy jumpsuits had crochet lace bags and backpacks. dressed up,” as Lippes called overlays and cutouts on velvet, The designer’s men’s wear it. Knits were key; the fine- while for evening she utilized included suede bomber jackets, gauge merino wool sweaters drama-inducing draping on tuxedo suits and tailored with sheer illusion insets were jewel-tone silk gowns. sweatpants — which he called standouts, as were the beautiful his “new jean” — that blended military-inspired coats and Sophie Theallet: Inspired by a seamlessly with traditional Alan chic capes. There were nods vintage black-and-white ski staples like sport shirts and to India with kaftans, but in photo of her mother, Sophie skinny khakis. ADVERTISEMENT

New York // FebruarY 13, 2013 RunwayThe

Alexander Wang Jason Wu Son Jung Wan RepoRT

Snow may have overtaken the Eastern Seaboard, but it didn’t dampen New York Fashion Week at all. As they say, the show must go-on. Designers and show-goers marched on with unaltered enthusiasm as innovation and fresh, new creative interpretations expanded the fashion vocabulary.

Hervé Léger by Max Azria Jen Kao Yigal Azrouël AlexAnder wAng JAson wU son JUng wAn Alexander Wang embraced the luxuriant tex- Thanks to that stunning inaugural gown, 2013 looks Son Jung Wan’s Fall 2013 collection was an tures and cozy feel of fuzzy fabrics, from rich knits to to be another great year for Jason Wu. His Fall 2013 interesting medley that comfortably bridged Korean mohair to fur, to express his message in his Fall 2013 collection is a triumphal ode to femininity. propriety with Western sartorial largesse. The collection. Coupled with the softening of his trademark Mr. Wu is becoming more comfortable with himself collection—a presentation of unorthodox bipolarity angular quality, the feel was modern and indulgent. and isn’t afraid to experiment. It seems he could be influenced by the Russian modernist art movement and A downtown edge came in the form of ribbed knit caps revealing a new sexiness that will somewhat redefine the opulence of great Russian dwellings—read surpris- and oversized fur mittens. his brand image. Glamorous, yet easy to wear, this ingly modern. Grey overwhelmingly drove the line-up, though some collection energized and expanded Wu’s established Blunt cuts and proportions were tapered with softer touches of rust, and white and black were peppered aesthetic with striking, fun, and flirty looks. colors and luxe materials. Where harsher textiles into the mix. He also favored lowered waistlines and This time around Wu took chic American sports- dominated a look, more intricate treatments fostered crisscross details for a chic sophistication. wear styles and integrated them with a few updated sophistication. When it came to fur, pony took a front-and-center street-chic pieces for a new vision of sophistication. Her furs were as varied as her collection. She used fox, spot for its unparalleled reflective properties, whereas Combining a black exotic skin jacket with a soft mink, Rex rabbit and lippi cat with equal confidence, kidskin fur and lamb helped Mr. Wang develop and white skirt, or a fur-trimmed leather vest with a crisp creating full or partial sleeves, epaulettes, wrapped define his shapes. buttoned-up white shirt may not raise an eyebrow. Yet collars and unisex ringed scarves. Her oversized gold when the juxtaposition transcends from day to evening, sequin embroidered fox coat stole the show. Hervé léger by MAx AzriA the looks become fresh and fun. The classic Hervé Léger bandage dress is, of course, yigAl AzroUël on the menu for Fall 2013—but in his show notes, Jen KAo Yigal Azrouël favors looks that enhance the female Max Azria states that he draws inspiration from the Jen Kao’s show felt a bit like Paris circa 1982. silhouette. He uses small knits to swath torsos, belts works of several modern French artists. Unexpected The vibe was young, and the delivery was impactful. and peplums to zone in on the midsection, stovepipe or floral and fauna references invoke the energy of the Aside from great leatherwork, Ms. Kao introduced PJ style trousers to elongate legs. Mr. Azrouël also likes whimsical surrealist work he admires. a brick pattern patchwork with geometric ofshoots in to wrap his girls in chunky sweaters and coats. This collection was darker and more discreet in black and indigo blues. She interspersed the pattern With his Fall 2013 collection, he opted for an mood from last year, and it delivered an intricate throughout, pairing it with leather, vinyl, denim, intricate, tailored fit, even adding a bustier or two to knitwear vocabulary. The label is advancing beyond neoprene, and even fur. make his point. The sculptural mood continued with animal print with an unusually deft hand; the new Her black and dark blue color palette worked body-conscious dresses, sweater coats, and even an patterns are not only fresh, they foil expectations with amazingly well with a few maverick additions of inverness cape. unique geometric applications. silver, mid-blue, white, and gold. The result was clean, Fur touches added to the luxe feel throughout the Fur hooded-jackets had a powerful visual impact balanced, and historical, given that these were the line-up. From Asiatic raccoon accentuating his loden here. Flufy fox in jet black, snow white, and silver color choices of 16th century French royalty. green wool dufe coats to mouton doré ring scarves, grey demanded attention and, once combined with Her fur pieces pushed the envelope with fur gave flair and attitude to the collection. His the marvelous stretch prints, presented looks that monochromatic multi-fur patchwork and black-on- two-toned tiered fox jacket showcased his talent for delivered a strong point of view. white polka dot mink appliqué treatments that helped easy, sexy, chic dressing. take the collection from conventional to directional.

For The Row, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen have mastered the art of elegant simplicity, adding the subtle touch of pearls suspended from the collar news to make a black and white mink coat truly special. Altuzarra’s bold black and white geometric print fox coat made a stunningly strong and sexy & notes statement. And Chadwick Bell showed his mastery of fur in an elegant funnel-necked cross mink coat. LuXurY reIMaGINeD

Fur Information Council of America 8424 A Santa Monica Blvd., Suite 860 West Hollywood, California 90069 323.782.1700 www.furinsider.com 16 WWD wednesday, february 13, 2013

For more Aniston Front and Center for Living Proof images, see {Continued from page one} Aniston has just signed on to do a Peter Bogdanovich WWD.com/

if I wasn’t involved, because for me and a lot of girls, comedy, “She’s Funny That Way,” with Owen Wilson, beauty-industry-news. [hair] is a big deal.” Jason Schwartzman and Cybill Shepherd. It is set to But why not simply lend her famous face to the com- begin filming in this summer, she noted. pany? Aniston says it’s because Living Proof passed one While she’s got plenty of projects keeping her busy of her most stringent tests. “With some products you can on the acting front, Aniston is determined to direct, put it in your hair for a week and it will look fantastic,” she preferably sooner rather than later. said. “And then it starts shooting you in the foot. Or your “Absolutely, that is 100 percent in my future,” she

hair looks greasy the next day from silicone or something said firmly, having developed a taste for directing with you don’t even know is in there. This still performed over a a Lifetime TV project, “Five,” which explored the topic three-month period on a movie set, where your hair gets a of women living with breast cancer. It was bittersweet, lot of wear and tear.” she noted, given that numerous friends have struggled And she admits with a laugh that she had another with the disease, “like Laura Ziskin, who was so close to motive: scientists on standby to create beating it, and Sheryl Crow,” she said. solutions for any hair dilemmas she “I want to be a part of stories that teach ’’ could throw out there. “And them being people and create awareness, that cre- willing and able to hear you and get in ate forward motion and give back. Then there and create all sorts of new prod- I feel like I can go to bed peacefully.” ucts — it’s kind of a dream.” The newest round is entitled “Call McMillan became a believer after Me Crazy” and deals with mental ill- using Living Proof products in his ness. “Which also now, thankfully, is Los Angeles salon, and signed on as a being brought up. It’s quite topical. spokesman in January. “He’s the first Who knew that when we were think- person to say it’s crap if something ing of what the next round [of “Five”] doesn’t work,” Aniston said. She also would be about that it would be so in erry t

relished the chance to work with her the news. I was hoping to direct one of longtime friend. “When this came the segments, but I didn’t finish work

about, I thought [Chris] would be a fun in time and it would have pushed the Frank addition to the group, and it all fell into schedule too far. But I am wearing my place beautifully. Chris is an endless producorial hat on that one, and I’m ex- Aniston on set for the campaign. well of hair information. The world is cited about that.” photo by his Barbie doll. He wants to touch ev- Jennifer Aniston for Living Proof. Aniston has been working with her eryone’s head.” producing partner Kristin Hahn, with The brand’s first national advertising campaign, which whom she runs Echo Films, to develop projects. She’s When I’m into something, I love breaks in March fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines, most passionate about getting “The Goree Girls,” an adap- features Aniston in a shot done by Mario Sorrenti with tation of a Texas Monthly article about a falsely convicted hair by McMillan.”When you have a group of people who woman who starts an all-female band behind bars, on the sharing it with other people, work together that long, it’s just easy,” she said of her long- big screen. “It has been two seconds from a green light time friends. “ Yo u play great music and have fun, make [several times] and then something happens. But that’s whether it’s a face product, a your hair wavy, make your hair straight, whatever.” something we’ve been working on for years, which is so When she’s not dreaming up new hair products, beautiful and a deep passion project of ours that will find great pair of jeans or shampoo. Aniston is keeping plenty busy at her day job, acting. its slot in time. I will definitely be a part of it in some form She’s currently filming an untitled Elmore Leonard — of course producing, but maybe be in it, I don’t know, — Jennifer aniston project in Greenwich, Conn. (She observed cheerfully direct it, I don’t know. But there’s a lot of great people who of the recent snowstorm that dumped two feet of snow are out there who are beautiful writers. I have a lot of there: “At least it’s something pretty to look at.”) dreams in my dream catcher.” spare time to spend with fiancé Justin Theroux. But she “The book’s called ‘The Switch,’ but we can’t use that Of the timing for her big-screen directorial debut, doesn’t regret the whirl of activity: “I’m having a ball. given I did a movie with the same name a few years ago,” Aniston noted, “I’ve got to clear out the schedule a little bit. I’m loving this movie, and [busyness] isn’t bad, because she said, noting that the new film is a Seventies prequel to I was hoping to do one this year, but I had to be realistic I’m enjoying myself.” the movie “Jackie Brown.” “It’s a quick, five-week shoot, and realize that if I was already going to be doing all these And unlike many Hollywood stars, Aniston has a re- and we’re having a ball. The director, Rawson Marshall movies, I needed to [wait.] But that’s definitely happening.” freshingly down-to-earth take on birthdays. “They just Thurber, really knows what he wants. It’s a dark thriller- Still, she seems to be effortlessly juggling her various come rapid-fire,” she laughed when discussing her Feb. caper comedy, and Tim Robbins and Isla Fisher are also creative endeavors. “When it rains, it pours,” she says 11 birthday. “I feel like the last one just happened! I want featured.” She is in post-production on “We’re the Millers,” philosophically about the myriad projects she’s cur- to say, ‘Let’s sloooow down.’ I have fun all the time, so I’m which also stars Jason Sudeikis and Emma Roberts. rently working on, which keep her from having much not worried. I can have a form of a birthday any day. ” Fossil Sees Profit, Sales Gains; ’’ Longchamp Revenues Increase 16 Percent Signs Pact With Tory Burch The U.S. ranks as the number- Cassegrain said of the latter loca- By MILES SOCHA two market, with two other coun- tion, flashing a big smile. “It gives By VICKI M. YOUNG tries vying for the spot: Japan and a lot of visibility to the brand. It’s a PARIS — Benefiting from its attain- Germany, whose globe-trotting huge billboard for the Chinese tour- FOSSIL INC. posted double-digit percent gains in able luxury positioning amid eco- Chancellor Angela Merkel is often ists visiting Hong Kong.” both fourth-quarter profits and sales, and said sepa- nomic uncertainty, French leather pictured carrying a Longchamp tote. Key openings in 2013 are head- rately that it has signed a global licensing agreement goods firm Longchamp saw reve- Cassegrain noted that Longchamp’s lined by a 5,400-square-foot flagship with Tory Burch. nues bound 16 percent last year to revenues have catapulted 75 percent at 229 Regent Street in London, slat- The watch firm said income for the three months 454 million euros, or $583.7 million in the last three years, necessitating ed for the second half of the year. ended Dec. 29 rose 28.2 percent to $151.1 million, or at average exchange rates. a 215,000-square-foot expansion of its In the U.S., Longchamp just $2.51 a diluted share, from $117.9 million, or $1.87, last The results were powered by a roll- distribution facility in Segré, France, opened a shop-in-shop at Macy’s year. Sales rose 14.1 percent to $947.7 million from out of boutiques and shops-in-shop; Herald Square in New York, and is $830.8 million. The firm said global retail comparable- key product launches including a about to open at the Aventura Mall store sales rose 2.4 percent, representing the 19th con- leather version of its perennially popu- in Miami, along with a unit in the secutive quarter of positive comps. lar Le Pliage bag, and a steady flow of Miami Design District. For the year, income rose 16.5 percent to $343.4 Asian tourists, particularly in Europe. Stores in Geneva, Rome and million, or $5.59 a diluted share, from $294.7 million, Disclosing key financial results Amsterdam are in the cards for Europe. or $4.61, in 2011. Sales rose 11.3 percent to $2.86 bil- and development plans to WWD, Cassegrain said the company lion from $2.57 billion. Longchamp chief executive officer would ramp up its push into the foot- Kosta Kartsotis, chief executive officer, said, “During Jean Cassegrain said January and wear category for fall, primarily in the quarter, we grew sales in each of our major geogra- February “started well” after a “dif- its own stores, and with select whole- phies and improved the overall profitability of our busi- ficult” December in Europe, making sale partners, including Galeries ness, validating the strength of our business model and him “quite optimistic” the luxury Lafayette, which plans to open a driven by our compelling portfolio of brands.” firm can keep up its double-digit dedicated space for the brand in its The ceo also said that Asia has delivered its high- pace this year. shoe department later this year. est growth rate and that it has successfully integrated “If things are getting a little Revenues at Longchamp have gained Earlier this month, the land- the Skagen brand, which the company acquired in tougher in 2013, it can also play in 75 percent over the last three years. mark Paris department store April 2012. For the first quarter of fiscal 2013, Fossil our favor,” he said in an interview where the brand’s main factory is opened a pop-up unit showcasing provided diluted earnings per share guidance of 93 at the family-controlled firm’s head- based. The project represents an in- Longchamp’s ready-to-wear. cents to 98 cents. For the full year, it expects diluted quarters here. “We have proven to vestment of 26 million euros, or $34.5 Ye t leather goods still represent EPS at $5.85 to $6.15. be more crisis-resistant than some million at current exchange. the lion’s share of the business, with Shares of Fossil rose 3 percent to close at $110.65 of our competitors.” Longchamp ended the year with Longchamp slated to put marketing in over-the-counter trading. By region, sales increased 26 per- 252 directly operated boutiques and muscle behind its new LM Cuir line The company separately said that it signed a global cent in the Americas; 25 percent in shops-in-shop, with a flagship on of embossed cowhide handbags. licensing deal with the Tory Burch Co. to design, de- Asia-Pacific; 16 percent in Europe, Canton Road in Hong Kong among In late March, the brand is to open velop and distribute Burch’s first collection of watches. excluding France, and the Middle key additions. a 500-square-foot pop-up store dedicat- The timepieces are slated for release in late 2014. East, and 9 percent in France, still “It is already ranking in our ed to the LM range at 271 Rue Saint- —Withcontributionsfromrachelstrugatz the brand’s largest market. top-five shops around the world,” Honoré, just opposite its flagship here.

w13a016a;14.indd 16 2/12/13 6:35 PM 02122013183545 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2013 17 WWD.COM Senators Support U.S.-EU Free-Trade Agreement

is expected to release recommendations. tellectual property protection, access for U.S. service By KRISTI ELLIS European leaders have been more vocal about push- exports, a mechanism for dispute settlement, regula- ing for a trade agreement than their U.S. counterparts. tory compliance and improved access for U.S. agricul- WASHINGTON — Two prominent U.S. senators The trading relationship is already significant. The tural exports such as beef and pork. delved into the debate over a U.S.-European Union U.S. exported $329 billion worth of goods to Europe in They said a trade accord could serve to “reinvigo- free-trade agreement on Tuesday, outlining their 2012 and imported $454 billion, according to the U.S. rate the global trade agenda, setting the standard for priorities for a potential trans-Atlantic deal that is Commerce Department. all FTAs to follow. While there are numerous challeng- under consideration. “A comprehensive U.S.-EU FTA, negotiated and es to be addressed, it is our hope that the framework Sens. Max Baucus (D., Mont.), chairman of the implemented with the highest standards, would have we have outlined…provides useful guidance as you ne- Senate Finance Committee, and Orrin Hatch (R., a multiplier effect and would be certain to gener- gotiate a path forward.” Utah), ranking member of the panel, said in a letter to ate much-needed economic growth on both sides of Baucus and Hatch also told Obama they plan to “in- President Obama that a U.S.-EU trade accord is an “en- the Atlantic,” the two senators said in their letter. tensify” efforts to renew presidential trade promotion ticing opportunity” but also one with many challenges. “While there is much promise in the U.S.-European authority, which expired in 2007. With TPA, Congress Outgoing U.S. Trade Representative Ron Kirk and Union relationship, there are remaining barriers to does not have the ability to amend trade pacts negoti- EU Trade Commissioner Karel De Gucht are heading free and fair trade that are long-standing and diffi- ated by the executive branch and can only vote up or a group that has been tasked with exploring ways to cult to overcome.” down on them. TPA also gives leverage to the U.S. and advance U.S.-EU trade and investment. It was estab- The senators identified several trade issues they assurances to its trading partners that a pact will not be lished during the November 2011 U.S.-EU summit and want addressed in any negotiation, including strong in- changed by Congress. Under Armour Opening First Store J.C. Penney Credit Facility children’s apparel, footwear and accessories. It By JEAN E. PALMIERI will be the largest depth of product to date. Expanded to $1.85 Billion “This is so much store,” Plank said, add- THIS IS GOING TO BE a big weekend for ing that there will be 74 full mannequins and a Last week, Ron Johnson, Under Armour. 700-pound carved wooden Under Armour logo By EVAN CLARK chairman and chief executive On Saturday, the -based brand installed in the store. “This will be a premium officer, told CNBC that his rei- will open the doors to its first store at the shopping experience,” he said. J.C. PENNEY CO. INC. has ex- magining of the chain was on same time that it launches its largest global In addition, Under Armour’s new “I Will” panded its credit facility, se- track to be finished by 2015. marketing campaign. campaign will make its debut on TNT on curing some extra financial “This year, we’ll complete In a multimedia presentation in New York Saturday during the NBA All-Star Weekend. cushioning as it works to turn the transformation of 40 per- City on Tuesday afternoon, Kevin Plank, chief The spot will air on other networks as well, around operations. cent of nearly 700 of our executive officer and founder of the compa- including ESPN and MTV. The 60-second spot The move increased the stores,” he said. “That’s sig- ny, said the primary purpose of opening the depicts athletes training in the brand’s new- company’s borrowing capacity nificant. We’ll do it with the 8,000-square-foot Brand House in the Harbor est and most technologically advanced prod- under the agreement by $100 cash on hand. We have yet to East section of Baltimore is to “get us closer to ucts and includes Canelo Alvarez, boxing’s million to $1.85 billion. tap into the revolver. It doesn’t the consumer.” It will allow the company to tell superwelterweight world champion; Sloane Penney’s said the amend- mean we wouldn’t at some its story in its own specially designed venue in Stephens, the teenage tennis star; Bryce ment “enhances” its liquidity point, but we haven’t done that its own voice, he added. Among the elements in Harper, baseball’s National League Rookie of and “provides additional finan- during the first year. We said the store will be an Innovation Station inside the the Year, and Kemba Walker of the NBA. cial flexibility to support its we’d end the year with about front entrance that will showcase the company’s Among the products launching for spring is transformation initiatives.” $1 billion in cash, in a couple latest technological advances, as well as areas Armour 39, a new digital performance-monitoring The company has yet to weeks we’ll tell people exactly dedicated to the company’s men’s, women’s and system that tracks heart rate, calories burned and turn to the facility, funds from where we ended up.” intensity during workouts. It will be in- which can be used for general The company will report corporated into jog bras for women and corporate purchases. its fourth-quarter results A rendering of will also work off a chest strap, which Ken Hannah, chief financial on Feb. 27. Analysts expect the store. will retail for $149.99. The company will officer of Penney’s said Tuesday the company will post losses eventually incorporate the technology afternoon: “As we enter the sec- of $1.27 a share, down from into a training shirt, Plank said. ond year of our transformation, earnings of $1.28 the prior Other products showcased at the today’s announcement reflects year. Sales are projected to event included the new Coldgear the confidence of our banking have fallen 23.2 percent. Infrared insulated apparel collection, group in our long-term strategy Shares of Penney’s gained as well as the UA Spine Venom run- and further strengthens our li- 0.7 percent to $19.41 in after- ning shoe and the Micro G Toxic Six quidity position as we continue hours trading Tuesday. minimalist footwear. The Infrared ap- to execute our plan.” The credit facility was co- parel uses ceramic-infused ink to coat The company has been led by J.P. Morgan Securities, garments and help athletes retain heat changing from a traditional Merrill Lynch, when it’s cold, but does not impact department store set up to a Barclays Capital and Wells breathability or moisture management. group of shops-in-shop. Fargo Capital Finance.

PUBLISHING STORM: RCS Mediagroup, 15 AND COUNTING: Hearst’s Harper’s between Roitfeld and Coco Chanel — the Italian editorial giant that Bazaar mother ship has been around while Beckham gaffer-taped a still of MEMO PAD publishes the daily Corriere della Sera for 146 years, but the Australian edition from the King & Partners- and counts Diego Della Valle as its main is a mere teenager — 15 years old next produced video for her new e-commerce BLENDING COMMERCE AND CONTENT: Hearst shareholder, is gearing up to make month. To celebrate the milestone, site, and McCartney styled some Magazines UK is the latest magazine dramatic internal changes. Harper’s Bazaar Australia editor Kellie cupcakes around a pair of her Happy publisher to try to bridge the worlds of During an official meeting Monday Hush commissioned 15 front covers from Birthday Knickers. Tom Ford politely editorial and e-commerce, linking with with the European Works Council, which as many fashion names for the March declined, citing paternity leave. Francisco The Hut Group. The partnership deal represents RCS workers in European edition: Stella McCartney, Costa, meanwhile, had to go will enable customers to shop from a countries where the group operates, RCS Victoria Beckham, Diane von back to the drawing board selection of products chosen by magazine Mediagroup chief executive officer Pietro Furstenberg, , after his first submission was editors at Theukedit.com, which will be Scott Jovane said the company will cut 800 Christian Louboutin, Carine rejected. Explained Hush, shipped to their doors within 24 hours. jobs, 640 in Italy and 160 in Spain. He Roitfeld, Karl Lagerfeld, Calvin “He sent back something quite Beginning with Men’s Health also said that RCS is going to sell or close Klein, Lanvin, Gucci, esoteric — a purple calla lily. It and Digital Spy, each of the shops is 10 magazines, including A, Bravacasa, Hermès and Louis Vuitton, was simple, beautiful and very independently created and reflects the Yacht & Sail, Max, Europeo, Astra, as well as Australia’s Collette Calvin Klein, but I put it up tone, content and brand values of the Novella 2000, Visto, OK and several Dinnigan, Sass & Bide and on the wall alongside all the titles. Other stores from Hearst titles crossword puzzle magazines. Ninety Romance Was Born. With others and it just didn’t work.” — including Cosmopolitan, Elle and employees work for the affected titles. the exception of Roitfeld’s A total of 90,000 copies have Handbag — will come online during 2013. In addition, Jovane did not discount submission — a photo of been printed of the issue, As each title decides which products the possibility of moving the Corriere Lara Stone by Kacper Kasprzyk, which came out Monday. to feature in its magazine every month, della Sera and Gazzetta dello Sport part of the debut spread by Bazaar’s Australian licensee, they will also select the products to editorial teams from their historic Roitfeld, Harper’s Bazaar’s Bauer Media Australia, will sell on Theukedit.com, whose retail building in Milan’s Brera district to new global fashion director, be hoping the collector’s technology offers leading conversion the RCS Mediagroup headquarters in that will appear in the Stella McCartney’s editions help boost the magazine’s tools and customer service. the suburbs. March editions of all 26 Bazaar Australia cover. visibility in a soft market that has Benefits to consumers and advertisers To protest these decisions, the international editions — all witnessed double-digit circulation include shopping advice from editors, click- Corriere della Sera journalists’ union the artworks are exclusive to Harper’s Oz. decreases at a number of Australian to-buy shopping, late next-day delivery, is planning a 10-day strike, while Alber Elbaz, Louboutin, Dinnigan fashion titles. Bazaar’s circulation was national and international shipping, and the magazine journalists’ union has and Lagerfeld were among those down 3.6 percent to 52,520 in the 12 data insights across media and shopping proclaimed a four-day strike that started who submitted illustrations — with months to June 2012. behavior, the companies said. — JULIA NEEL Tuesday. — ALESSANDRA TURRA Lagerfeld’s depicting a tête-à-tête — PATTY HUNTINGTON 18 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2013

FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE WWD.com/eye. FASHION SCOOPS FALK EVAN

IN THE HOUSE: John Galliano was — as a character. Based on nowhere to be seen anywhere the memoir by American near the front-of-house at stockbroker Jordan Belfort, the Oscar de la Renta’s Tuesday- film details his rise and fall night show, while visitors were as founder of the brokerage not allowed backstage. Had firm Stratton Oakmont. The

BY STEVE EICHNER; ALL OTHERS the fallen-from-grace Dior company employed more than designer had a look, he would 1,000 stockbrokers at one time, have found a few unexpected but Belfort fell hard after Alison Mosshart supporters at the show, being convicted of securities and Myles Hendrik including Valentino, Giancarlo fraud and money laundering.

JACOBS PHOTOS BY Giammetti, Diane von Furstenberg, However, Belfort’s successful Barry Diller and . equity raising for Steve When de la Renta stepped out Madden Ltd. was by far one for a final bow, Karlie Kloss and of the stockbroker’s righter A guest at the Magdalena Frackowiak weren’t moments, one insider said. Harvard Club. the only ones keeping him Don’t look for Madden Club Night company — a burly security alongside Scorsese’s leading guard also made his presence men — Leonardo DiCaprio, Jonah PITY THE half-dozen grad- • • • known to the crowd. Hill and Matthew McConaughey — student types toiling in the Reed Krakoff die-hards and sugar While a stream of well- when the film is released later member work center in the enthusiasts alike swarmed the wishers queued up to this year. Aside from the fact basement of the Harvard Club Ladurée flagship on Madison congratulate the designer, his character’s role is a minor in midtown Manhattan on Avenue on Monday night to fete Valentino warmly embraced one, it is also played by Dustin Monday night. It can’t be easy Krakoff ’s collaboration with the Annette de la Renta, telling her Hoffman’s son Jake. — R . F. cramming with a fashion week macaron purveyor. The designer how pretty the collection was. party unfolding above your created a limited-edition treat, After posing with Rachel Zoe study session. Marc Jacobs had a matte-black-looking, dark- for an iPhone photo taken by taken over the building’s first chocolate-tasting macaron, to be her husband, Rodger Berman, de floor for its semiannual friends sold exclusively at the Upper East la Renta talked a bit — though and family celebration, where a Side shop for the duration of New not in great detail — about STEVE EICHNER swirl of young and peppy sales York Fashion Week. his new alliance and the

associates partied among the “The process started with show. Asked what it meant PHOTO BY rich mahogany and worn leather the packaging, actually. I loved for him personally, he said, trappings. To clarify: Marc the idea of taking this iconic, “As a designer, you love every Jacobs the brand had taken over historical packaging and doing collection.” As for Galliano’s the space. The designer himself, a modern take on it,” the involvement, he said, “Well, presumably still working on his designer said of the sleek black, you know, more than three- Zoë Kravitz and postponed runway show, did not minimalist collectable box that quarters of the collection was Penn Badgley make it to the party, which was will encase the cookies. “We already done.” billed instead as a post-Marc by thought about doing the box in Where this friendship, Marc Jacobs bash. matte black. Rendering it all in kinship, courtship is headed Not that any partygoers one color seemed interesting.” is anyone’s guess, “We have a particularly cared. Guests, most prudently great love affair,” was all de la “The show hasn’t happened resisting the urge to pig out, Renta would say. yet? I didn’t even know,” circled the sweets piled onto — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Jada Pinkett Smith said Zoë Kravitz, standing with silver tiered trays. Alexandra and boyfriend Penn Badgley near the Theodora Richards arrived with DJ booth, where Alison Mosshart a clique of girls. “These are so PROPORTION CONTROL: Jada was selecting tracks. “Just here good,” Theodora said midchew, Pinkett Smith, seated front for the party. My friend’s DJing. shaking her head in satisfaction. row alongside Rachel Roy,

That’s the only reason I’m here.” Krakoff ducked out early, STEVE EICHNER and John Legend Others in attendance explaining that he had only at Vera Wang’s show at Lincoln included Trish Goff, Michele Hicks an hour to kill between Center on Tuesday morning, PHOTO BY and Jessica Stam, who posed for fittings. Earlier in the evening, knows that the designer has photographers in front of the he reflected on how this a few tricks up her sleeve. hanging portraits of university collaboration had given him a “I’m so small, but I love presidents past. bit of perspective. dressing like a tall woman, Early in the night there “My children have such a sweet and Vera has this way of was the sight of a drag queen tooth, so they’re more impressed taking my little petite frame reapplying her makeup in a by this than anything else I’ve ever and putting me in things that men’s room down the hall from done,” he said. “It’s definitely lengthen my frame somehow that study center. my highest accomplishment and make me look like the “Sorry, Harvard Club,” she in my children’s eyes. And my tall woman I’m meant to be,” Jessica laughed, taking stock of the French wife’s as well.” the actress said. “She just Stam situation. “At least I’m wearing — MATTHEW LYNCH does magic.” — T.H. cocktail attire.” AND TAYLOR HARRIS Matt Damon DENNIS’ 30TH: Joan Collins and Joan Rivers were among the I’M SEATING MATT DAMON: Matt VIPs who have walked in Damon is hardly the front Dennis Basso’s fashion shows eye row fixture, so when the who turned up in his front row actor turned up squiring his Tuesday afternoon to help beautiful wife, Luciana, to celebrate his company’s 30th Naeem Khan’s Lincoln Center anniversary. Martha Stewart, runway show on Tuesday Star Jones, Carol Alt and Kelly afternoon, it caused quite Bensimon helped keep them a stir. “Matt! You’re at a company. Trying to recall fashion show!” one baffled when she and the designer Alexandra photographer exclaimed first met, Collins said with a Richards between snaps. “Yeah, that’d laugh, “It is a mist of antiquity be pretty bad if I didn’t know — it has been such a long, long that,” the actor replied. time. I bought a fur from him Moments later, a particularly and then he asked me to do nervy (and adorable) eight- his show.” year-old girl approached the Rivers was surprisingly actor for an autograph and serious when discussing picture, to which Damon Basso. “He really knows what accommodated without a woman wants and gets hesitation. “Aw!” a p.r. girl glamour. I’m sitting here in squealed. “That just melted this marvelous sable and Star my heart.” — TAYLOR HARRIS has this chinchilla. He makes The macarons you feel luxe.” Reed Krakoff HOOFIN’ IT: Steve Madden Jones agreed, noting that created for will have a minor role in whether a woman is wearing Ladurée. Reed Krakoff Martin Scorsese’s latest film, one of his high-end furs or a “The Wolf of Wall Street” {Continued on page 19} WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2013 19 WWD.COM Fashion scoops For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com.

{Continued from page 18} $99 QVC faux fur, Basso designs for the Moncler will design masses “no matter who you are. He’s the outerwear for never forgotten he’s here to serve his VistaJet’s crews. customer.” Courteous as he is to the women who buy his designs, Basso planned to celebrate his 30th with the guys. The designer’s husband, Michael Cominotto, planned to throw a black- tie stag party for him Tuesday night at the Georgian Suite. Hermès’ Bob Chavez, interior designer James Rixner, Colin Cowie, Hal Rubenstein and Joe Lilly Pulitzer® is a lifestyle, branded marketing company serving the resort needs of the affluent customer at ease. Castaldo were on the guest list for We are currently looking to expand the talent within our brand. the Champagne and caviar party, with Rivers expected to drop by for NEW HEIGHTS: Luxury private jet fleet a late-night toast. The waiters were VistaJet has tapped Moncler to design TECHNICAL DESIGNER expected to be a bit underdressed in the outerwear for its flight attendants tuxedo vests, black bow ties and tight and pilots. We are currently looking to expand the talent within our technical design team. If you understand the "Lilly" customer, resort lifestyle, and have strong tech- nical expertise in fit, patternmaking, and construction techniques, this might be perfect for you! The ideal candidate should have high collaborative problem whities. — R.F. Inspired by the Sixties and the solving skills, attention to detail, understanding of garment to body measurements, and expertise in communicating garment specifications and fit correc- golden age of travel, the jackets for tions to overseas vendors to achieve the desired design aesthetic. The ability to work in a fast paced environment with changing priorities is also necessa- DE SOLE SIGHTING: Tom Ford’s Dominico male and female staff are made of ry. Applicants should have a bachelor’s degree in a related field, plus 5-10 years of work experience in the technical design field. Understanding of fit re- De Sole and Tom Mendenhall took a crisp waterproof wool, with silk lining quired for the contemporary classic customer, RESORT LIFESTYLE and the Lilly Pulitzer® customer is critical. Position is based in King of Prussia, PA. In- moment Tuesday morning to stop by and feather down padding. ternational and domestic travel required. the J. Crew presentation at Lincoln “For our collaboration with Moncler, Center. No, there weren’t any ulterior we specifically worked together on the DIRECTOR OF PUBLIC RELATIONS motives, they said, just a friendly outerwear garments for both male and interest in the company. “We’re just female pilots and male and female cabin We are currently looking to expand the talent within our Creative Communications team. If you understand the "Lilly" customer, resort lifestyle and have friends of the brand,” said Mendenhall, hostesses/hosts,” said Nina Flohr, VistaJet’s strong expertise in Public Relations, this might be the perfect for you! Lilly Pulitzer® seeks to generate publicity that will build brand image, generate pub- while De Sole added, “The designer is creative director. “The VistaJet cabin lic excitement about Lilly Pulitzer® products, and increase sales. The Public Relations Director will be responsible for all aspects of planning and imple- menting Lilly Pulitzer’s® public relations strategy and programs. The Director will work closely with key individuals in the media, entertainment, and fash- very talented.” — JEAN E. PALMIERI crew travel in any given day from minus ion industries, with organizers of charity and other special events, and with company employees to achieve the program’s goals. Applicants should have a 50C to plus 50C temperature; that’s why bachelor’s degree in related field as well as 7+ years of experience. This position is based in New York, NY. Domestic travel is required. SIGHTING NUMBER TWO: Pierre-Yves we wanted to work with a brand who Roussel, chief executive officer of LVMH could not only supply garments with Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s fashion beautiful design but also with excellent QUALITY ASSURANCE MANAGER division, was spotted in the front row technical quality.” at Tor y Burch’s show Tuesday morning. The Moncler outerwear jackets will We are currently looking to expand the talent within our quality assurance team. The ideal candidate should understand the quality requirements and stand- Could LVMH be eyeing the designer’s be worn with uniforms designed by ards for a luxury lifestyle brand (ladies, childrenswear, accessories, and footwear). Production fabric knowledge and the knowledge of CPSC and Prop 65 regulations and testing standards is required. On-the-ground factory experience in performing production audits based on a 2.5 AQL and social compli- hot contemporary brand? “I’ve got ex-Trussardi artistic director Giancarlo ance audits is a necessity. Good decision making and supervisory skills are required. Applicants should have a minimum of 10 years in quality assurance nothing special to say,” Roussel would Petriglia on board all flights from March. and/or factory level experience. Position is based in King of Prussia, PA. Extensive international travel is required. only allow. “I like what she does. That’s VistaJet is the largest wholly owned the only reason.” — MARC KARIMZADEH fleet outside the Americas and the Please email your resume for consideration to [email protected] putting the position you are responding to world’s fastest-growing private aviation in the subject line. MINKOFF GETS LOUD AT FRED SEGAL: company. It prides itself on luxury, Rebecca Minkoff’s foray into the offering Kiehl’s toiletries and catering electronics world, via six clutches- from Harvey Nichols, served on china turned-portable-speakers for Stellé from Christofle. — JULIA NEEL Audio Couture, are finally for sale at Ron Robinson at Fred Segal. First seen on THE KIDS ARE ALL RIGHT: Badgley PERSONAL ASSISTANT Minkoff ’s spring runway, the fashionable Mischka’s front row was chock-full of Personal Assistant needed to organize gadgets retail for $399, along with a non- celebrities ranging from Alexa Ray Joel and help. Basic computers skills need- ed good with organization. We are Minkoff Stellé clutch for $299 and pillar- and Aly Raisman to Colbie Caillat, Carmen ready to pay $650 per week interested person Should contact: style speakers for $349. Electra and Petra Nemcova. Raisman, the [email protected] “Their vision for building beautiful, 18-year-old captain of the gold-medal- premium consumer electronics aimed winning U.S. women’s gymnastics team at fashionable females is so innovative. at the 2012 Summer Olympics and an It’s the perfect collaboration for me individual gold medalist on the floor, to expand my label into electronics said this was her first show of fashion Spaces without sacrificing my design week and she also planned to attend aesthetic,” said the designer. The Elie Tahari, Jenny Packham, Rachel COMMERCIAL collection will also be available soon at Zoe and Nanette Lepore. an as-yet-unnamed department store. “I thought it was amazing. My jaw REAL ESTATE — MARCY MEDINA was dropping,” said Raisman, who said she would rather be “overdressed OPTICAL AFFAIRS: Luxe eyewear brand than underdressed.” Raisman wore Christian Roth — the first in its a Badgley Mischka black gown with category ever to be inducted into a plunging neckline and a slit up the Showrooms & Lofts BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS the Council of Fashion Designers of side to the Golden Globes. She also Great ’New’ Office Space Avail America — is turning 30 with a new said she’s been traveling and attended ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 look. With the help of New York-based the Cartoon Network Hall of Game creative agency EquancyNo11 and Marc Awards, which honors favorite sports Pellerin Design, designers Christian Roth stars and sports moments of the year, LINEADOMANI FASHIONS and Eric Domège have relaunched their where she wore a Badgley Mischka Top Canadian collection of dresses & Web site, now featuring e-commerce dress that was “fun and girly.” separates looking for sales person for the Dallas market territory. Texas, with a pop-up shop containing exclusive Joel said the Badgley Mischka show Oklahoma, Ark, Miss & Lousiana. Please send resumes to: items and curated collections. The site “evoked the Hitchcock era and made New York Embroidery Studio [email protected] introduces the brand’s latest capsule me think of Tippi Hendren and Kim Novak.” Embroidery, Laser Cutting & Embellishments Full service shop to the collection, Block-On, with 10 styles at Other shows Joel attended this week trade. High quality finish. 212-971-9101 or [email protected] SALES PRO $850 each, as well as an assortment were BCBG Max Azria, Nicholas K and Off shore company seeking part time of rare and vintage collectibles, such “Project Runway.” PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Mass Market sales person for NY of- PRODUCTIONS fice. Base salary plus commission. as a pair of Seventies Futura 462 In addition to performing and Full service shop to the trade. Email resume to: Silhouette frames for $3,300. Proceeds studying classical piano right now, Joel Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 [email protected] from both collections will benefit said she’s a fashion correspondent for OrphanAid Africa. julib.com, a fashion, food, beauty and Additional curated collections shopping Web site, where she runs include a selection of “greatest hits” around with a microphone. “I think from the brand’s 30 years in business, it’s important to do other stuff and the as well as an edit of the designers’ pressure’s off you and you get to ask favorite looks from their Asia’s First somebody else questions,” said Joel. Choice collection launched by BCD in But music will always be in her an expansion deal the brand inked in blood. She said she’s looking forward to 2011. The site’s contents, which will performing at the Oak Room and The (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] also be shared through social media, Living Room in New York, doing monthly are slated to revolve on a constant stints in New York City. “I’m a New York basis. — KRISTI GARCED girl,” she said. — LISA LOCKWOOD

w13a019a;7.indd 19 2/12/13 9:17 PM 02122013211821

B:11 in T:10.75 in S:10 in T:14.75 in B:15 in S:14 in

INSIDE BACK COVER / COVER #3

Client: SAM EDELMAN Bleed: 11 in x 15 in Fonts: Helvetica Neue (Regular) Production: STEPHEN ELLWOOD Art Director: FRED EVANS Notes: Publication: WWD Trim: 10.75 in x 14.75 in Images: H886_SFA_SHOT_03_135 Traffic: CHRISTINA MARTINEZ Studio Artist: JOSH WEINER FOR PRODUCTION QUESTIONS PLEASE CALL: Publication Date: FEB 13, 2013 Live: 10 in x 14 in 1_GGL_000.tif Account: MELISSA PATTI Station: MARTINEZ CHRISTINA STEPHEN ELLWOOD 212 929 6670 / 917 587 8878 File Name: SE_WWD_COVERWRAP_FEB13_V8 MACPRO CHRISTINA MARTINEZ 212 929 6696 / 646 761 6955 Date: 1-31-2013 6:08 PM Position: COVER WRAP

APPROVAL CREATIVE PRODUCTION TRAFFIC ACCOUNT MANAGER CLIENT

ISO 12647-7 Digital Control Strip 2007 3% A 100 60 100 70 30 100 60 100 70 30 100 60 100 70 30 100 40 40 100 40 100 40 70 40 70 40 40 40 70 40 40 70 40 70 40 40 3 10 25 50 75 90 100

B 100 100 60 100 100 70 70 30 30 100 100 60 100 100 70 70 30 30 100 100 60 100 100 70 70 30 30 100 40 100 40 40 100 10 40 40 20 70 70 70 70 40 70 40 40 0 0 0 0 3.1 2.2 2.2 107 7 25 19 19 50 40 40 75 66 66 100 100 100 807070100

529 WEST 20TH STREET 11E NEW YORK NEW YORK 10011 TEL 212 213 4455 FA X 212 213 4556 WWW.NUCLEUSIMAGING.COM B:11 in T:10.75 in S:10 in T:14.75 in B:15 in S:14 in www.samedelman.com

BACK COVER / COVER #4

Client: SAM EDELMAN Bleed: 11 in x 15 in Fonts: Helvetica Neue (Regular, 45 Light) Production: STEPHEN ELLWOOD Art Director: FRED EVANS Notes: Publication: WWD Trim: 10.75 in x 14.75 in Images: H886_SFA_SHOT_05_258 Traffic: CHRISTINA MARTINEZ Studio Artist: JOSH WEINER FOR PRODUCTION QUESTIONS PLEASE CALL: Publication Date: FEB 13, 2013 Live: 10 in x 14 in 1_GGL_000.tif Account: MELISSA PATTI Station: MARTINEZ CHRISTINA STEPHEN ELLWOOD 212 929 6670 / 917 587 8878 File Name: SE_WWD_COVERWRAP_FEB13_V8 MACPRO CHRISTINA MARTINEZ 212 929 6696 / 646 761 6955 Date: 1-31-2013 3:59 PM Position: COVER WRAP

APPROVAL CREATIVE PRODUCTION TRAFFIC ACCOUNT MANAGER CLIENT

ISO 12647-7 Digital Control Strip 2007 3% A 100 60 100 70 30 100 60 100 70 30 100 60 100 70 30 100 40 40 100 40 100 40 70 40 70 40 40 40 70 40 40 70 40 70 40 40 3 10 25 50 75 90 100

B 100 100 60 100 100 70 70 30 30 100 100 60 100 100 70 70 30 30 100 100 60 100 100 70 70 30 30 100 40 100 40 40 100 10 40 40 20 70 70 70 70 40 70 40 40 0 0 0 0 3.1 2.2 2.2 107 7 25 19 19 50 40 40 75 66 66 100 100 100 807070100

529 WEST 20TH STREET 11E NEW YORK NEW YORK 10011 TEL 212 213 4455 FA X 212 213 4556 WWW.NUCLEUSIMAGING.COM LASVEGASPREVIEW WWD

Q TOP 12 THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT THE SHOWS Q LAS VEGAS SCENE ING MAC COSMETICS; PHOTO ASSISTANT: CIARA CROCKER; STYLED BY ALEX BADIA (MEN’S) AND KIM FRIDAY (WOMEN’S). ALEX BADIA (MEN’S) AND KIM FRIDAY CROCKER; STYLED BY CIARA ING MAC COSMETICS; PHOTO ASSISTANT: GOOD COMPANY Fall favorites go a little bit country, a little bit punk. Take your pick.

On him: Steven Alan’s suede jacket and cotton pants, and Shipley & Halmos wool blazer, both at Capsule; French Connection’s cotton sweater at Project. General Idea’s shoes. On her: The Portland Collection by Pendleton’s wool and cotton coat at Project, over French Connection’s ponte and leather dress at WWDMAGIC; Dr.

Martens’ boots at Project. JEN MYLES US GEORGE CHINSEE; MODELS: MCLAIN/NY CARI DUPREY USING REDKEN; MAKEUP BY MODELS AND SAMI/WILHELMINA;PHOTO BY HAIR BY 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2013

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDLASVEGASPREVIEW Scene Get your Vegas on at four of the hottest new places on The Strip. By Fatima Rizwan

margarita ($12) is a must. FAST FACTS Javier’s at ARIA Resort and Casino 3730 Las Vegas Blvd. Q MAGIC is projected to have 80,000 Tel: 866-590-3637 delegates, which translates into Hours: 11:30 a.m. to midnight a nongaming economic impact of Web: arialasvegas.com/dining/ approximately $102 million for the restaurants/javiers local economy. Hyde Bellagio LIVE IT UP Q Gross gaming revenue for Clark Want a break from the lavish pool par- County reached $9.4 billion in 2012, ties, electric clubs and alluring casi- restaurants typically introduce an ap- PURE nightclub, fitness centers, valet, a 1.9 percent increase from 2011. nos? Hyde Bellagio has it covered. petizer menu first, Red Square offers a priority dining at Nobu restaurant, The 10,000-square-foot indoor/ caviar selection ranging from Special and an exquisitely crafted in-room Q The Las Vegas Strip saw an increase outdoor space at Hyde Bellagio plays Reserve Beluga ($189) to Smoked dining menu. Chef and restaurateur of 2.3 percent in revenues to $6.2 host to Live Thursdays beginning at 9 Trout Roe ($22), so guests can find the Nobu Matsuhisa is not alone in his billion in 2012. p.m. every Thursday. Overlooking the perfect, indulgent caviar for their taste restaurant-hotel merger — Robert De eight-acre lake, guests enjoy drinks and price point. Niro, co-owner of Nobu Hospitality, SOURCE: LAS VEGAS CONVENTION AND VISITORS AUTHORITY and live music from various artists as If the crimson-themed room with joins him in the venture. the Fountains of Bellagio choreograph appropriately named dishes such as Staying true to Nobu’s signature a dance to a dra- Chicken Kiev ($26) and Czar Salad Japanese elegance, the accommo- matic opera. Local ($11) are not enough to get diners in a dations feature natural materials, favorite and one- Russian-esque mood, the Vodka Vault artwork by Japanese artists, black man-band Jeremy will. Chilled in a frigid zero-degree Umi-tiled showers and neutral tones. Cornwell has enter- Fahrenheit cooler, more than 11 va- Designed by architect David Rockwell, tained at Las Vegas rieties of vodka are on offer in the the Zen feel of the boutique hotel runs venues including Vault, including Russian classics like true, from the cherry-blossom-pat- Studio 54, Mandalay Stolichnaya ($12), Imperia ($12) and terned hallway carpets to the chilled Bay and the Hard Beluga Noble Russian ($12). As if sake waiting for guests inside their Rock, but now pro- the choice of vodkas was not enough, tranquil rooms. vides an eclectic guests can get the full Vodka Vault ex- Rooms include standard Nobu array of tunes at the perience by donning a Russian fur or Deluxe ($249 per night), Hakone suite Bellagio. “American authentic Russian military coat and (features Jacuzzi, $719 per night), and Idol” contestant cap while sipping in Mahi Crabbe is also the vault, for $100. a regular musician If the theme of Red Nobu Hotel Javier’s at the luxe space, Square isn’t obvious entertaining guests from the headless stat- with his Hawaiian ue of Vladimir Lenin MOORISH CHARM charm and acoustic guitar. (complete with faux Staying true to its authentic SoCal After the live music, guest DJs bird droppings), the roots, Javier’s spices up the Las Vegas begin at midnight. cocktail menu makes Strip inside ARIA Resort and Casino. Live Thursdays at Hyde it clear. Created by Paying homage to a rich heritage of Hyde Bellagio master mixologists, authentic Mexican cuisine, Javier Sosa 3600 Las Vegas Blvd. South Siberian Night ($14), serves up traditional dishes using fam- Tel: 702-693-8700 Red Scare ($17) and ily recipes passed down for genera- Hours: Thursday, the Moscow Mule tions. 9 p.m. to midnight ($17) get anyone into a While lunchtime favorites such as Web: hydebellagio.com Russian state of mind. carnitas ($22), enchiladas poblanas ($20) and carne asada ($45) remain RED-HOT RUSSIA Red Square true to their humble Orange County Red Square at Mandalay Bay re- The Mandalay Bay roots, the 9,000-square-foot restau- launches with a Russian revamp. Resort and Casino rant offers a dramatic flair. The space, Merging American favorites with 3950 Las Vegas Blvd. designed by Dodd Mitchell, has a Russian influences, chefs Brian Massie South Sake suite (features media room, pool Moorish feel, with amber lighting, and Chris Conlon have created a menu Tel: 702-693-8300 table, and bar space, $919 per night). white stucco walls and a dominating rich in taste and culture. While most Hours: Sunday to Thursday, 4:30 As guests slip from their relaxing carved bar adorned with beads. p.m. to 10:00 p.m.; Friday & oasis and head out for a night on the As if this weren’t enough to im- Saturday, 4:30 p.m. to mid- town, they don’t need to travel far. The press guests, Javier’s is also home night always-stylish Nobu restaurant and to the world’s largest piece of chain Web: mandalaybay.com/ lounge spans 9,500 square feet at the saw art. Weighing 3,000 pounds, span- dining/red-square base of the Nobu tower, with 327 seats. ning 25 feet and carved by J. Chester Sticking true to its famous menu, dish- Armstrong, the mammoth piece de- NOBU BY NIGHT es include squid pasta with light gar- picts the legend of Mayan creation What’s better than Nobu lic ($24), seafood toban yaki ($38), chef and Mexican history. Using hundreds sushi? Nobu sushi in bed. sushi dinner ($75) and a multicourse of carved Día de los Muertos skeletons, Caesars Palace not only menu by Chef Matsuhisa ($150-$200). the artwork tells a five-part story from features the famous sushi Nobu Hotel, Restaurant, and Lounge the Tree of Death to the redemption in restaurant and lounge but the Centurion Tower Caesars Palace the Tree of Life. Nobu Hotel as well. 3570 Las Vegas Blvd. South Javier’s mixes Moorish opulence with With 181 rooms, 16 suites Tel: 866-227-5938 (Hotel); 866-733-5827 Mexican tradition, and the dinner menu and a penthouse at the Las (Restaurant and Lounge) is a perfect blend of the two elements. A Vegas staple, the world’s first Hours: Dining room: Sunday to true seafood-lover’s paradise, the menu Nobu Hotel is a boutique Thursday: 5-11 p.m.; Friday and includes seafood enchiladas ($27), Cabo hotel with luxury amenities Saturday, 5 p.m.-midnight; Azul (a Maine lobster in pasilla sauce, and perks within Caesars. Lounge: Sunday to Thursday, 5 p.m.- $30) and Fideo del Mar (linguine pasta Guests have access to all that 1 a.m., Friday and Saturday, 5 p.m.- with Dungeness crab, Mexican white its encompassing hotel has to 2 a.m. shrimp and wild scallops, $30). To top off Red Square offer; VIP treatment includes Web: caesarspalace.com/restaurants/ the experience, a hand-shaken Javier’s complimentary access to nobu

4 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2013 SECTION II

WWDLASVEGASPREVIEW

Levi’s Made & Crafted’s wool and cotton coat at Project with Seven GEORGE CHINSEE For All Mankind’s PHOTOS BY polyester and STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY spandex sueded jeans at Project. Frye’s boots at Project.

A for Attitude So long sweetie, the fall collections have bravado to spare.

Above: Laundry by Shelli Segal’s nylon and spandex dress at WWDMAGIC.

Right: Cheap Monday’s polyester lace dress at Project. WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2013 5 WWD.COM

BCBGeneration’s rayon BLK DNM’s leather jacket dress at WWDMAGIC. and silk dress at Project The Row for Linda Farrow over Only Hearts’ bra Collaborations’ sunglasses and panties at ENK. Dr. at Project; Volatile Martens’ boots at Project. Footwear’s shoes at WWDMAGIC.

French Connection’s polyester fur coat at WWDMAGIC over C+C California’s cotton T-shirt at ENK

and Habitual’s coated ER cotton and elastane jeans at ENK. MODEL: SAMI/WILHELMINA; HAIR BY CARI DUPREY USING REDKEN; MAKEUP BY JEN MYLES USING MAC COSMETICS; PHOTO ASSISTANT: CIARA CROCK CIARA JEN MYLES USING MAC COSMETICS; PHOTO ASSISTANT: CARI DUPREY USING REDKEN; MAKEUP BY MODEL: SAMI/WILHELMINA; HAIR BY 6 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2013

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDLASVEGASPREVIEW RUSTIC CHARM 525 America’s cotton and acrylic sweater at ENK and WEEKEND UPDATE True Religion Brand Lacoste’s cotton hat Jeans’ cotton denim and skirt and AG suspender jeans Adriano Goldschmied’s and Sorel Boots, cotton muscle shirt, both at Project. both at Project.

Hot Tickets

Trends this season range from rugged to ladylike. Here’s a sampling. PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY : JAMES LEE. WILD KINGDOM Victorinox’s wool and nylon parka at Project; Ainsley’s viscose, nylon and angora sweater; Desigual’s polyester pants, and BCBGeneration’s slippers, both at WWDMAGIC.

LEATHER GIRL Michael Stars’ leather and Supima cotton jacket, Supima cotton T-shirt and Tencel pants at COLOR BLOCK PARTY Project with Sam Trina Turk’s rayon, nylon Edelman boots at and spandex ponte sheath FNPlatform. dress at ENK. Stuart Weitzman mary janes. MODEL: BRIANNA/WILHELMINA; HAIR BY MATT FUGATE AT THE WALL GROUP; MAKEUP BY MISUZU MIYAKE FOR NARS COSMETICS; FASHION ASSISTANT FOR NARS COSMETICS; FASHION MISUZU MIYAKE GROUP; MAKEUP BY THE WALL AT FUGATE MATT MODEL: BRIANNA/WILHELMINA; HAIR BY robertgraham.us

10 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2013

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDLASVEGASPREVIEW

The top 12 things to know The Vegas Dozen at the shows.

RUNWAY HIGHLIGHTS Sometimes viewing clothing on hang- On the runway at WWDMAGIC. ers in a booth is insufficient — and WWDMAGIC is well aware of that. Organizers will stage fashion shows in the North Hall each day of the trade show. James Campbell, who produc- es contemporary fashion shows for Directives West, is spearheading the WWDMAGIC fashion shows. Every day he will focus on a trend, which could range from the season’s must-have pieces to key colors. The shows will feature 60 to 100 looks from brands exhibiting in the North Hall, among them Andrew Marc, Eileen Fisher, Laundry by Shelli Segal, Johnny Was, Gorski Group and Jane Post. — RACHEL BROWN

BUYERS GET A HAL PASS While all buyers hope that the items they order at the shows will translate into hits of the sort featured in fashion magazines, the whims of fashion and its customers are often hard to predict. InStyle’s fashion director Hal Rubenstein hopes to take away some of the guesswork for buyers by present- ing a seminar of his top picks across all categories of WWDMAGIC on Feb. 20 at 1 p.m. in the Buyer’s Suite in the North Hall. Rubenstein’s next stop (Harajuku). Stitch is the new name will be Hollywood for There will also be a DJ for the revamped Moda Oscar Week festivities, party Tuesday night from Las Vegas show. where some new red- 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. carpet trends will soon At Project at Mandalay be born. Bay Convention Center, — MARCY MEDINA Blogger Project, curat- ed by lifestyle blogger IN THE BLOGOSPHERE Marcus Troy, will pro- Fifteen international vide live news from the bloggers are expected at show floor with key blog- the WWDMAGIC show gers such as Slamxhype, this year, and the vari- Freshness, Nitrolicious, the upgraded Moda Las Vegas, which ous MAGIC shows at Lavish Livez, WRGMAG, trade show operator Business Journals Las Vegas Convention Hal Rubenstein William Yan, Por Homme, Inc. decided to rebrand because it Center will feature blog- The Crosby Press, has expanded from its initial focus ger lounges through- The Denim Guy and on women’s special-occasion dress- out, including the launch of Social Highsnobette. Check magiconline.com ing to encompass sportswear, better House on the Concourse, site of daily for the latest times. contemporary and lifestyle brands as discovery sessions where bloggers —M.M. well. Moda Las Vegas has also received will present their latest showroom a makeover in its transformation into finds, trends and social media pan- CHANGES AT ENK Stitch, with fresh taupe carpeting, els. At a special Tokyo Pop panel, When Magic and Project owner revamped lighting and white metal Misha Janette, Plumb designer and Advanstar Global LLC acquired ENK booths meant to give it a luxury feel. blogger at TokyoFashionDiaries International LLC last November, New brands exhibiting at Stitch in- .com, and Mai Ann Nguyen-Miyoshi, there was never any doubt that ENK clude Pologeorgis, Christie Brothers, aka maisassygirl from “Just another Vegas was in for some changes. Musi Furs and Komarov Typical Night in Tokyo” (maisassy- Now those changes are being im- Black Label. girl.blogspot.com), will speak about plemented. ENK Vegas, which runs the influence of Japanese street style from Feb. 19 to 21, is relocating from HEART OF THE MATTER Wynn Las Vegas to Save a trip to Paris the Mandalay Bay and say bonjour Convention Center, in Las Vegas yet where it will reside again to Heart near Project. ENK of Prêt, an area Vegas is taking over the dedicated to high-end contemporary French brands at women’s portion of WWDMAGIC. In Project, while Project its fourth edition, will focus on men’s and Heart of Prêt will dual-gender brands. showcase 35 brands Advanstar believes — more than in any the moves will create previous season. a more efficient trade Among the brands are Lauren show experience. Vidal, Save The Queen, Rizal and Matti — R.B. Mamane. Alexandra Heart of Prêt is the result of a part- Satine STITCH IN TIME nership that started in 2011 between The Blogger handbag and Stitch is weaving its way WWDMAGIC and Prêt à Porter Paris, McGinn dress, Lounge at into the Las Vegas ap- the European fashion trade show and WWDMAGIC. both at parel trade show lineup. event producer. ENK Vegas. That’s the name for {Continued on page 12}

12 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2013

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDLASVEGASPREVIEW

Labels on the rise at Emerging Designer Showcase.

Vegas and WWDMAGIC events. The Vegas Dozen Along with the name chang- {Continued from page 10} es, Project has been compressed to a single main floor inside the UP-AND-COMERS EXPAND Mandalay Bay Convention Center, In its sophomore year, from the two floors it previously WWDMAGIC’s Emerging Designer occupied. The moves are meant to Showcase will expand to incorpo- improve the flow of traffic to all the rate two divisions: Ready-To-Wear Project-branded shows and ease in the North Hall and Accessories the buying experience for retail- in the Central Hall. The dozen ap- ers, said Tommy Fazio, president of parel vendors are: Project. • Stella Proseyn Most striking for Project attend- • d.p.c. by Dora Yim ees will be a new 180,000-square- • ISM Mode foot tented structure in the parking • Mike Vensel • Roosterbear • Lois Eastlund • Laundrea • Happy V Andrada • Misile • E. Herrera • Sarine Berberian • Haute Chocolate. On the accessories side, cos- tume jewelry exhibitors include: • Verge New York • Swathe • Shawl Dawls • Vincent Ko • Christine Brookstein • Eco-Tribal Designs • Soul Carrier • Mel Boteri • Katy Doherty • Fab Swank • Caramia • Nicole Meng. Other vendors include hand- bag lines Mei Vintage, DApper Diction and Hipsters for Sisters; and hats from Bijou Van Ness. — M.M. Heart of Prêt features PROJECT’S BIG SHIFT French brands. It’s a momentous year for Project as the denim and con- temporary trade show, which hosts lot of the Mandalay Bay Convention more than 2,000 brands, undergoes Center, which will house both The an extensive update and becomes Tents at Project and the ENK Vegas the men’s centerpiece of MAGIC show. “It’s quite a tent. You can see Market Week, as the entire lineup it from the airplane as you’re land- of Advanstar Global-owned trade ing in Vegas,” said Fazio. shows is dubbed. MAGIC Mens/ The Tents at Project is the jewel Wear has been rebranded Project in the reconfigured Project show Mens/Wear, joining two new show- and will host 100 designer, contem- cases: The Tents at Project, a home porary and denim brands, which for directional designer and con- are “at the forefront of the indus- temporary brands, and Project try” and “interconnected by their MVMNT, which replaces the former innovative, artistic approach to S.L.A.T.E. and Street young men’s fashion and design,” according to shows. a Project memo. Among the par- The changes mean the vener- ticipating brands are Billy Reid, able MAGIC name has been retired Todd Snyder, Gant Rugger, Michael from any actual trade shows and Bastian, Bespoken, Edun, Robert is now reserved for the umbrella Geller Seconds, Grayers, Ian of Advanstar shows staged in Las Velardi, J. Lindeberg and Jardine. Vegas, including the women’s ENK {Continued on page 14}

14 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2013

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDLASVEGASPREVIEW The Vegas Dozen PRPS ...Vince...... and {Continued from page 12} Goods & Closed, all at “It’s as if we had merchandised a re- Co.... the Tents @ ally cool men’s store,” said Fazio, Project. highlighting other brands like Raleigh Denim, Levi’s Made & Crafted, Save Khaki, Duvetica and Kent & Curwen that are housed in The Tents. Fazio will oversee a trend installa- tion within The Tents called The Edit. “It’s almost like I was doing an in- stallation on a retail floor. It’s how the season should look and feel, with forms and mannequins with my fa- vorite looks and shoes and bags and belts — and everything is available for wholesale within the tents,” he ex- plained. There are plans to expand The Tents concept to other international markets by 2014, with the company looking at Paris, Berlin, Copenhagen, Tokyo and Brazil as possibilities, added Fazio. Within the Mandalay Bay Convention Center, Project MVMNT is focused on the youth market, including skate, street and urban brands. Sub- categories, including Clique, for pro- gressive streetwear brands, and Street Hearts, for men’s brands designed by female designers, segment out the The site is accessible only to regis- Known for its focus on upscale tai- at the show. Its traditional off-Strip Las category. A series of trend displays tered MAGIC retailers, who go through lored clothing, sportswear and accesso- Vegas party will be held at The Griffin at MVMNT, under the rubric Mood a qualification process. About 60,000 ries with a more classic men’s wear bent, in downtown Las Vegas. Boards, will be curated by style setters registered buyers attend MAGIC the show includes brands like Ike Behar, like Chris Gibbs, owner of the influen- Market Week, according to the organi- Jack Victor, Joseph Abboud, Perry Ellis, Shows at a Glance tial Union Los Angeles zation’s figures. Weatherproof and Hugo Boss. specialty store. Another amenity International brands will have a Show: Capsule “Project MVMNT is at Project is a compli- spotlight in MRket’s dedicated Made in Venue: The Sands Expo Center taking an entirely new mentary, ready-built, Italy section, while their British coun- 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. South approach to showcas- on-site photo service terparts show in a United Kingdom Hall G ing youth culture,” said for brands to shoot design area. Sponsored by the Italian Dates: Feb. 19, 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Kenny Mac, the show’s images of their col- Trade Commission, the Italy show- Feb. 20, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. director. Participating lections on models, case includes Tombolini, Gran Sasso, brands at MVMNT operated by Sandbox Ingram and Luciano Moresco. Show: MRket will include Staple, Studios and Ford A MRket incubator for new and Venue: The Venetian Hotel Diamond Supply, Ice Models. “It allows emerging brands called Vanguards 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. South Cream, Neff, Supra, brands to communicate Gallery will return to Las Vegas for the Dates: Feb. 18, 9 a.m.-6:30 p.m. G-Shock and Good beyond the show floor second time. Curated by men’s fashion Feb. 19, 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Wood. and is part of our on- consultant Michael Macko, the show- Feb. 20, 9 a.m.-3 p.m. Also segmented going digital strategy,” case will include Hook+Albert, Spivey, out at Project will be said Fazio. Circle of Gentleman, Blue Claw and Show: Stitch dedicated sections for — DAVID LIPKE Well Bred. MRket helps underwrite Venue: The Venetian Hotel denim, footwear and the costs of participating in the show 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. South “California lifestyle,” STRAIGHT FROM THE for the young companies. Dates: Feb. 18, 9 a.m.-6:30 p.m. said Fazio. SOURCE Macko also oversees a trend instal- Feb. 19, 9 a.m.-6 p.m. In a key digital The Sourcing at lation at MRket called “Macko’s MRket Feb. 20, 9 a.m.-3 p.m. push, launching this MAGIC show this year Picks,” created in collaboration with season at Project is will include a Sourcing retailer BKLYN Dry Goods, with this Show: AccessoriesTheShow MAGIC Market Week’s Buzz Boutique show- season’s installation revolving around Venue: The Venetian Hotel online showroom ini- casing innovative tech- the theme of “speakeasy.” 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. South tiative, called Shop nology-based sourcing — D.L. Dates: Feb. 18, 9 a.m.-6:30 p.m. The Floor. The Web- solutions. For those Feb. 19, 9 a.m.-6 p.m. based platform is avail- wishing to supplement CAPSULE’S GROWTH SPURT Feb. 20, 9 a.m.-3 p.m. able to all brands and the show floor talk, Capsule will stage its largest Las Vegas buyers at the MAGIC this year’s Sourcing show ever, with more than 200 partici- MAGIC Marketplace shows, as well as the Seminar Series, pating brands, up 20 percent from the Shows: Project Mens/Wear ENK International which begins on Feb. previous season. Project MVMNT shows, now under the 18, includes Rock & “We think the Vegas market has real- The Tents @ Project Advanstar Global um- Republic cofounder ly picked up momentum. There’s an up- ENK Vegas brella. Andrea Bernholtz and tick in the men’s market in general and PoolTradeShow Shop The Floor ven- executives from Eileen we’re bringing a great brand selection,” Venue: Mandalay Bay Convention dors can create custom- Fisher, AllSaints U.K., said Minya Quirk, cofounder of Capsule. Center ized brand profiles and Andrea Bernholtz PVH, Suno, RedCats, New to the show this season 3950 Las Vegas Blvd. private virtual show- Ann Inc., Luen Thai are Adidas SLVR, Lee 101, Filson, Dates: Feb. 19-20, 9 a.m.-6 p.m. rooms. Brands have access to a self- and Coach, whose executive will dis- Hudson’s Bay Company, Henrik Feb. 21, 9 a.m.-5 p.m. service, automated process to upload cuss copyright, licensing and new laws Vibskov, Parabellum and Reigning product images and information into affecting fashion. Champ. “I think key trends are knits WWDMAGIC their virtual showrooms. About 280 —M.M. and outerwear, along with some high- Shows: FNPlatform brands have set up digital showrooms er prices. [Retailers] are feeling more Footsteps so far, with more than 6,000 products MRKET’S INTERNATIONAL SPOTLIGHTS confident about taking a chance on bet- Venue: Las Vegas Convention Center uploaded, said Allison Lombardo, vice About 350 brands will exhibit at MRket ter pieces and people really want new, 3150 Paradise Road president of marketing at Advanstar. at The Venetian Hotel this season, up new, new,” added Quirk. Central and North Halls The site will be active for 30 days 8 percent from the previous February Along with the new, Capsule is of- Dates: Feb. 19, 9 a.m.-7 p.m. before and after each season’s MAGIC show, and including 54 brands new to fering some old, with its “Donut Shop” Feb. 20-21, 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Market Week. The goal is to extend the show. cash-and-carry vintage retail concept the impact of the trade shows into Britton Jones, president and chief for buyers who want immediate shop- Show: Sourcing at MAGIC the normal buying season, explained executive officer of Business Journals ping gratification. A group of dealers Venue: Las Vegas Convention Center Lombardo. Buyers can plan their agen- Inc., owner of MRket, said the state will offer vintage apparel, apothecary 3150 Paradise Road das prior to attending the trade show, of the retail climate was encouraging, items and furniture and fixtures that South Hall build look books and line sheets, con- noting “how robust the order writing retailers may purchase on the spot. Dates: Feb. 18, Noon-6 p.m. nect with brands and generate order was in our January market in New Capsule offers trend news in its Feb. 19, 9 a.m.-7 p.m. sheets via Shop The Floor. York.” Capsule Paper newspaper distributed Feb. 20-21, 9 a.m.-6 p.m.

FEATURING TOKYO TALENTS

YUSUKE HANAI SONOYA MIZUNO Unconventional Talents on www.lacostelive.com UNCONVENTIONAL CHIC