The Case of Surfing
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RISK-TAKING & POSTMODERNITY: COMMODIFICATION & THE ECSTATIC IN LEISURE LIFESTYLES The Case of Surfing By Mark James Anthony Stranger B.A. (Hons) Submitted in fulfilinent of the requirements for the Degree of Doctor of Philosophy University of Tasmania (August, 2001) s " Declaration of Originality This thesis does not contain any material which has been accepted for a degree or diploma by the University or any other institution, except by way of background information and duly acknowledged in the thesis, and to the best of the candidates knowledge and belief no material previously published or written by another person except where due acknowledgement is made in the text of the thesis. Mark Stranger . Statement of Authority of Access This thesis may be made available for loan and limited copying in accordance with the Copyright Act 1968. Mark Stranger . Abstract The thesis is a study of surfing in Australia. It examines the surfing subculture and its relationship with the dominant culture; the risk-taking orientation of its bodily practices and the role they play in the construction of individual and group identity and social formations; and the multi dimensional relationships between the surfing culture industry, surfing's sports bureaucracy, bodily practices, social configurations and subcultural integrity. The study is based on the hypothesis that the surfing subculture in Australia is a distinctly posbnodem configuration but one which displays a level of stability not accounted for in posbnodem theory. It informs current debates over the nature of the self and society in postmodernity. The scope of the research was national because previous studies of surfing, both in Australia and the USA, suffered from too narrow a scope; either focussing on one sector or geographic area. The breadth of this study enabled coverage of all sectors, geographic types, and forms of surfing subculture in Australia. Participant observation was undertaken during a ten month field trip to 15 surfing locations, covering all States and surfing location types. The observations were supplemented by recorded interviews with 31 key people, 129 questionnaires administered at 16 specific surfing sites, and an analysis of the surfing media and other documentation. The thesis concludes that posbnodernity provides an environment in which the self can become anchored in the shared transcendent experience of bodily practice, which forms the basis of stable social formations. Through interaction with the sublime in nature, the self 'experiences itself' in communion with the world. This transcendence is both a loss of self and an expanded sense of self, whereby subject and object merge in ecstatic experience. The shared knowledge of ecstatic experience constitutes a conscience collectif which underpins the subculture's social formations at the local and global level. The surfing culture industry mediates the experience across the world in images, text and symbolic form. Local neo-tribal formations reinforce the ecstatic experience through their hypercommodified culture and their sociality. Their structure promotes the hyperindividualistic pursuit of ecstatic experience and constitutes a self-perpetuating social configuration whereby these reflexive communities are constantly reconstructed through bodily practice. This aesthetic reflexivity provides a bulwark against alienating bureaucratization and fosters a form of competitive surfing which further reinforces the foundational experience. Acknowledgements I gratefully acknowledge the guidance of my primary supervisor, Associate Professor Adrian Franklin, and secondary supervisors, Professor Stephen Crook and Associate Professor Gary Easthope. I also want to thank other members of the Department's administrative and academic staff, in particular Dr. Nerida Cook, Dr. Eduardo de la Fuente, Dr. Roberta Julian, and Professor Jan Pakulski, and Dr. Douglas Booth from the University of Otago, for their advice on various papers. I especially want to acknowledge the support of Dr. Bob White who started his PhD. with me - finished it way ahead of me - and provided friendship, encouragement and advice while I caught up. I also want to acknowledge the invaluable contribution made to this study by fellow surfers who gave up their time and shared their insights and experiences with me through interviews, informal chats, telephone calls, and just by going surfing with me. In particular I want to thank the following for their sometimes numerous contributions over the life of the study: Alan Atkins, Gail Austen, Tim Baker, Rod Brooks, Greg Brown, Pam Burridge, Tom Carroll, Midget Farrelly, Jack Findlay, Wayne Lynch, Steve Reid, Nat Young, and my brother Nick Stranger. Thanks also to the Gollow family -Adam and Pamela, Charles and Sharon, Morris and Sue - all of whom provided incredible hospitality to my family during the fieldwork. Thanks too to my wife Marsha and children Sally, Lucy, and Bonny for putting up with me staying at school way too long; and to my parents David and Zoe, grand parents, Jim and Nell New, and parents-in-law Phil and Joy Grafton, for their support. TABLE OF CONTENTS CHAPTERl INTRODUCTION ............................................................................................. 1 THEsIS OVERVIEW································································· ................................................... 3 THEsIS STRUCTURE ..........••.................•.......•.........•••...•...................•..•....................•...•.•....•..•.. 6 CHAPTER 2 A POSTMODERN PERSPECTIVE ..................................................................... 10 THIS POST110DERN FRA11EWORK ·•······••·•••••··•·•·•··•······•·····•···•·•••······•·······•···•··••·····•·•·•··••········ 10 Negotiating 'Post' and 'Other' Modernities .....................•.............•...........•........................ 13 SURFING & POSJ'MODERNITY .................................................................................................. 16 The Dialectics of Postrnodernization ................................................................................. 21 THEORETICAL OVERVIEW ....................................................................................................... 24 CHAPTER3 AN UNORTHODOX ETHNOGRAPHY............................................................... .26 METHODOLOGY ...................................................................................................................... 27 REsEARCH DESIGN················································································································· 29 Observer Status ................................................................................................................. 29 Location Survey ................................................................................................................. 32 Multiple Facets.................................................................................................................. 36 Getting In .......................................................................................................................... 37 PARTICIPANT OBSERVATION ................................................................................................... 39 Expert Incompetence ......................................................................................................... 40 Participant or Observer..................................................................................................... 43 INTENSIVE INTERVIEWS .....•......•.••.•....•.....•••.••.••.•.......•...••....•.•..•....•...•......•.•.....•.••....•...•..•..... 45 QUESTIONNAIRE ..................................................................................................................... 48 OTHER SOURCES OF INFORMATION ..................•.....•..........•.............•.........•..•.•..•.......•............. 52 ANALYZINGTHEDATA ........................................................................................................... 54 ETHICS .•...............•.••...........•........•.........••......•.••.............••.....•...........••..•.......•........•......••...... 55 CONCLUSION .......................................................................................................................... 58 CHAPTER4 PLEASURE & DISCIPLINE: SURFING'S PAST & PRESENT FORMS ...... ~ ..................................................... .59 A SURFING :HISTORY .............................................................................................................. 59 Hawaiian History .............................................................................................................. 60 · Surfing USA ...................................................................................................................... 63 Bronzed Aussies ................................................................................................................ 65 Competitive Surfing in Australia ......................................................................................................... 71 Australian Women in Surfing ........................................................................................................... 74 Section Summary ............................................................................................................... 77 CONTa1PORARY SURFING LIFE .............................................................................................. 79 Surfing Subculture