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Oceanography © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC NOT for SALE OR DISTRIBUTION NOT for SALE OR DISTRIBUTION © Jones & Bartlett Learning LLC, an Ascend Learning Company. NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION. © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION Library of Congress, Prints & Photographs Division, Reproduction number LC-DIG-highsm-43299 (original digital file © Jones & Bartlett Learning LLC, an Ascend Learning Company. NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION. © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC NOT FOR SALECHAPTER OR DISTRIBUTION 1 NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION The Growth of Oceanography © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION LEARNING OBJECTIVES © Jones■ Describe & Bartlett the history Learning, of ocean exploration LLC and of oceanography. © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC NOT■ FORCritically SALE evaluate OR the DISTRIBUTION nature and power of the scientific method.NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION ■ Become proficient at reading graphs and doing unit conversions. © Jones & BartlettPreview Learning, LLC © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC NOT FOR SALEA complete OR DISTRIBUTION historical account of oceanographic explorationNOT FOR and research SALE wouldOR DISTRIBUTION be a massive undertaking. The record stretches back over several millennia to the time when ancient mariners built boats and ventured boldly onto the sea to explore the unknown. However, a brief sketch of maritime history is needed in a book that deals with the physical, chem- ical, geological, and biological processes of the ocean in a scientifically rigorous manner. First and foremost, this reminds us that for eons there have been people in the field of “oceanography”—people with an insatiable desire to make the unknown familiar.© Knowledge Jones & that Bartlett is commonplace Learning, today LLC required painstaking investigations© Jones by numerous& Bartlett seafarers Learning, LLC throughout centuriesNOT of exploration.FOR SALE Many OR intended DISTRIBUTION to become rich by exploiting resourcesNOT and FOR controlling SALE seaOR routes DISTRIBUTION for commerce. All were driven by a yearning to understand the mysteries of the Earth and its seas. Today’s oceanographers (modern sea explorers) carry forward this quest to satisfy humankind’s curiosity. They owe a huge debt to the courage and vision of earlier mariners, who by slow increments replaced ignorance and myth with knowledge. © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION ▸ 1-1 Oceanography: What Is It? ology meaning “the science of”) is etymologically more accurate. The distinction between oceanography and efore delving into the science of oceanogra- oceanology is similar to that made between geography © Jones & Bartlettphy Learning,, we should LLC understand exactly what ©the Jones (the & Bartlettphysical description Learning, of LLCthe world and its biota) NOT FOR SALE ORword DISTRIBUTION means. The fi st part of the term is coinedNOT FORand SALEgeology OR (the DISTRIBUTION scientific study of the Earth and its Bfrom the Greek word okeanos, or Oceanus, the name processes). The word oceanology has not, however, dis- of the Titan son of the gods Uranus and Gaea who was placed oceanography, because the latter term is solidly father of the ocean nymphs (the Oceanids). Eventually, entrenched in the minds of the laypeople as well as the oceanus was applied© Jones to the sea& Bartlettbeyond the Learning, Pillars of LLCWestern practitioners of© theJones science. & BartlettThus, this Learning, text LLC Hercules, the NorthNOT Atlantic FOR Ocean. SALE Th ORe second DISTRIBUTION part will follow convention, usingNOT the FOR more SALE familiar OR term DISTRIBUTION to of the term comes from the Greek word graphia, which denote the scientific tudy of the oceans. refers to the act of recording and describing. In fact, A common misconception is that oceanography is the word oceanography is inadequate to describe the a pure science in its own right, practiced by women and science of the seas because scientists do much more men who are specifi ally and narrowly instructed in than© Jones merely & record Bartlett and describeLearning, the ocean’sLLC physical, its investigative© Jones methods. & Bartlett Most oceanographersLearning, LLC are, in chemical,NOT FOR geological, SALE ORand DISTRIBUTION biological characteristics. fact, trainedNOT in FOR one ofSALE the traditional OR DISTRIBUTION sciences ( physics, Oceanographers investigate, interpret, and model all chemistry, biology, and geology) or a related fi ld aspects of ocean processes, using the most modern (engineering, meteorology, mathematics, statistics, or and sophisticated techniques of scientific and math- computer science) and choose to apply their research © Jones & Bartlettematical Learning,inquiry. The LLC term oceanology (the suffix© Jones expertise & Bartlett to the Learning, study of the LLC oceans. After obtaining NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION 3 © Jones & Bartlett Learning LLC, an Ascend Learning Company. NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION. 4 Chapter 1 The Growth of Oceanography © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC BIOCHEMISTRYNOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTIONBIOLOGY CHEMISTRY BIOPHYSICS GEOCHEMISTRY © Jones &OCEANOGRAPHY Bartlett Learning, LLC © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION NOT FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION PHYSICS GEOLOGY GEOPHYSICS FIGURE 1–©1 JonesThe field & of Bartlett oceanography. Learning,This diagram LLC organizes oceanography into© fourJones principal & Bartlettcategories—biological, Learning, LLC geological,NOT physical, FOR and SALE chemical OR oceanography—that DISTRIBUTION are linked to one anotherNOT by cross-disciplines. FOR SALE OR DISTRIBUTION (biology) © Tiburin Studios/ShutterStock; (chemistry) © Photodisc; (geology) © Horia Bogdan/Shutterstock.; (physics) © Photodisc. © Jonesundergraduate & Bartlett Learning,training in a LLC traditional science, they © JonesRather, as& theBartlett science Learning, of oceanography LLC has matured NOT FORgain SALE experience OR DISTRIBUTIONconducting oceanographic research NOTand FOR as research SALE vessels, OR DISTRIBUTION sampling devices, and elec- in graduate school or at a marine institute. Recently, tronic instrumentation have become increasingly new career opportunities in oceanography have devel- sophisticated and more widely applied to probe the oped in marine policy and management, marine law, ocean’s secrets, many beliefs of the past have been resource and environmental assessment, and other disproved. The lesson from history is clear-cut. Our related fi lds. Marine studies© Jones commonly & Bartlett rely on Learning, col- ideas LLC of the oceans today, which© Jones seem & so Bartlett appeal- Learning, LLC laboration among manyNOT types FOR of scientists, SALE mathema OR DISTRIBUTION- ingly fi al and are written aboutNOT and FOR taught SALE with ORso DISTRIBUTION ticians, engineers, technicians, and policymakers. much fervor and certainty, will be refi ed by the fi d- It is customary to subdivide oceanography into ings and thoughts of future generations of marine the four fi lds of physical, geological, chemical, and scientists. biological© Jones oceanography & Bartlett (FIGURE Learning, 1–1). These LLCfi lds are A practical© Jonesmeans &of Bartlettorganizing Learning, the historical LLC in turnNOT linked FOR to one SALE another OR by DISTRIBUTIONthe cross-disciplin es record of oceanographyNOT FOR is SALE to arrange OR theDISTRIBUTION events into of geochemistry, biochemistry, geophysics, and three broad stages. The fi st includes the early efforts biophysics. of individual mariners as they attempted to describe the geography of the Earth’s oceans and landmasses. During this time of ocean exploration, the very lim- © Jones & Bartlett Learning, LLC © Jonesits of the & worldBartlett were Learning, sought. Th LLCe second includes NOT FOR▸ SALE1-2 HistoricalOR DISTRIBUTION Review of NOTthe FORearly systematicSALE OR attempts DISTRIBUTION to use a truly scientific Oceanography approach to investigate the oceans. The third covers the growth of modern oceanography that has resulted Our perception and understanding of the oceans from the widespread application of state-of-the-art have changed markedly over time. Although this technology and the international
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