Volume 6, Issue 3, Spring2010

Sustainable : the Role of and a Comparison of Bamboo properties (Part II)

Marilyn Waite Engineer for Sustainable Development Ingéniuer pour le développement durable [email protected]

ABSTRACT

This paper delves into a subset of engineering for sustainable development—the engineering of sustainable textiles using bamboo. In particular, the document explores various questions relating to the subject, including: (1) what constitute sustainable textiles? and (2) what role can bamboo textiles play in sustainable development? The experiments performed attempt to answer two main questions: (1) what are the differences in textile properties between chemically-manufactured and mechanically-manufactured bamboo textiles? and (2) what are the differences in textile properties between two different species of bamboo (Phyllostachys edulis and Bambusa emeiensis)?

We can look at the textile industry through the lens of the triple bottom line of sustainability. At present, the industry has a poor track record for social and environmental concerns. The two most commonly used textile fibres— and —both cause serious environmental problems in their life cycle. This document focuses on one small aspect of the entire field of sustainable textiles—materials made from bio-based renewable resources in the form of bamboo species. The advantages of bamboo as a raw material include its fast renewability, its biodegradability, its efficient space consumption, its low water use, and its organic status. The advantages of bamboo fabric are its very soft feel (chemically-manufactured) or -like feel (mechanically- manufactured), its antimicrobial properties, its moisture wicking capabilities and its anti-static nature. The main constraints of bamboo textiles are current costs and are those inherent in the textile industry: energy, water, and chemical requirements that are involved in manufacturing.

The textile properties examined relate to sustainability: wear and tear (and therefore durability) and moisture wicking (and therefore the need for machine washing and drying). The following are measured for fibre, yarn, and fabric: tear force, breaking force, breaking tenacity, moisture absorption and speed of drying, and surface morphology.

The work is divided into two parts. Part 1 addresses bamboo textiles in the context of sustainable development, providing a historical perspective, sustainable development framework, pertinent information about bamboo as a plant, and the various manufacturing processes, advantages, and constraints of the bamboo textile industry. Part 2 addresses the experimental component with a discussion of limitations, challenges, a system dynamics view of sustainable bamboo textiles, and final recommendations for sustainability within the textile industry.

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IV. Experimental Exploration with sustainable development. The ability to Bamboo Textiles withstand forces is a key indicator of durability. The longer a textile lasts, the A. Introduction more one can prolong its eventual deposit in landfill, and perhaps the more one can Bamboo textiles present a noteworthy refrain from replacing and wasting further opportunity for providing sustainable resources. If a textile can absorb moisture textiles. Nevertheless, the renewable quickly and dry moisture quickly, then the properties of bamboo itself do not add much need for mechanical drying and perhaps to sustainable development if the textiles washing (which are energy intensive) can be cannot serve a practical purpose. Bamboo lessened. textiles must exhibit properties appropriate for its applications, thereby providing the B. Brief Literature Review end-user with a useful item. This section summarizes the materials used, methods There are thousands of studies concerning employed, and results of experiments various , yarn, fabric, and general performed in order to assess some of the textile properties of various plant . bamboo textile properties. Topics covered include the sorption properties of fibers, the effects of There are two main manufacturing methods cultivating methods on the mechanical currently being employed in the properties of cotton fiber, the determination manufacture of sustainable textiles— of porosity and content of plant chemically-based and mechanically-based fibers, the tensile properties of cocoon , processes. There are also over 1500 species the calculation of elastic properties of of bamboo globally, of which only a few are natural fibers, etc. being employed to create textiles. Some companies use only one species of bamboo There are no current published academic for bamboo , while works comparing bamboo textile properties other companies use many (such as 13 between different bamboo species and bamboo species) without distinguishing between different bamboo textile between species and textile properties. The manufacturing processes (chemical versus experiments performed attempt to answer mechanical). Here, I provide a brief review two questions regarding bamboo textiles: (1) of pertinent findings in the literature what are the differences in textile properties concerning bamboo textiles, ranging from between the chemically-manufactured and studies that seek to improve bamboo fibers mechanically-manufactured bamboo with surface modification, to comparisons of textiles, and (2) what are the differences in bamboo fibers with other textile fibers. textile properties between two different Mwaikambo provides a review of the species of bamboo used to produce chemical history, properties, and applications of bamboo (Phyllostachys edulis and Bambusa various plant fibers, including bamboo. emeiensis)? Mwaikambo presents the chemical composition, physical properties (such as The textile properties measured here are as diameter, length, bulk density), and follows: tear force, breaking force, breaking mechanical properties (such as tensile tenacity, moisture absorption and speed of strength, failure strain, and Young‘s drying, and surface morphology. Tests are modulus) of the fibers (Mwaikambo 2006). performed at various stages of the bamboo textile manufacturing process: fiber, yarn, Xu, Lu et al investigated the thermal and and fabric. Comparative testing is necessary structural differences among chemical to develop and improve products (Lyle bamboo fiber, Tencel (regenerated cellulose 1977), thereby making bamboo textiles more made from the eucalyptus tree‘s wood pulp), suitable for end-uses. The properties and conventional viscose fibers. The analyzed have special relevance to pertinent findings are that: (1) chemical Article Designation: Refereed 2 JTATM Volume 6, Issue 3, Spring2010

bamboo fibers suggest good water retention Bambusa emeiensis. Phyllostachys edulis is power due to the many voids in their cross- known as ―Mao zhu‖ in Chinese and section and (2) chemical bamboo fibers and ―Moso‖ in Japanese; it was formerly known conventional viscose fibers possess better as Phyllostachys heterocycla pubescens ability of absorbing and releasing water than (AmericanBambooSociety 2007). This is a Tencel (Xu, Lu et al. 2007). Xu, Wang et al popular bamboo for construction analyzed the effects of atmospheric pressure applications, as well as the textile industry. argon plasma on the surface properties of It was used to provide chemical bamboo bamboo fibers. They found that (1) cracks, samples and mechanical bamboo samples pits, and small fragments appear on the fiber from Suzhou Shengzhu Household Co., surfaces after plasma treatment, (2) surface based in Suzhou City . Phyllostachys roughness increases with longer treatment edulis has a monopodial and scattered times and larger plasma powers, and (3) rhizome system, and it is distributed dyeability and hydrophilicity of fibers throughout southwest China (Kanglin 1998). improves with surface modification using atmospheric pressure argon plasma Neosinocalamus affinis, now known as treatment (Xu, Wang et al. 2006). Shen, Liu Bambusa emeiensis 'Chrysotrichus,' was et al also explored the surface properties of used to provide chemical bamboo samples chemical bamboo fibers using a column from a manufacturing company based in wicking technique. Their study was a Shanghai and Sichuan China. comparison between bamboo fiber and Neosinocalamus affinis has a sympodial and cotton linter fiber (short fibers that cling to tufted rhizome system, is large sized, is cottonseeds after long fibers are removed). cultivated at less than 1900 m in altitude, The principal finding was that bamboo fiber and is widespread in the southwest of China has more than double the Lewis acid (Kanglin 1998). The company (wishes to component compared to cotton linter fiber; remain anonymous), uses bamboo fiber the author suggests that this makes chemical made from bamboo selected from the bamboo fiber similar to the touch of water, Sichuan Province in China. since water is found to have the same Lewis acid component (Shen, Liu et al. 2004). Figure 4.1 indicates the samples collected including their specifications. The samples C. Materials from Company A were received in April 2008 and stored at room temperature. The Bamboo fiber, yarn, and fabric samples were samples from Suzhou Shengzhu Household collected using two different species of Company were received in May and June bamboo—Phyllostachys edulis and 2008 and stored at room temperature.

Figure 4.1: Bamboo Samples used in Experiments Company Sample Type Photograph Specification Amount

Company A 100% Chemical Varied 0.5 kg (Bambusa emeiensis) Bamboo Raw Fibre (thick pulp)

100% Chemical 1.56 dtex×38 mm 0.5 kg Bamboo Fibre (length) (fine Pulp)

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100% Chemical 32 Ne 0.5 kg Bamboo Yarn Ring spun

100% Chemical 32 Ne 1 m Bamboo Knit Dyed Pink Fabric

Suzhou Shengzhu 100% Chemical 1.56 dtex×38 mm 0.2 kg Household Co. Bamboo (Phyllostachys Fine Pulp Fibre edulis)

100% Chemical 32 Ne 0.2 kg Bamboo Yarn Ring spun

100% Chemical 21 Ne 0.2 kg Bamboo Yarn Ring spun

100% Chemical 21 Ne 0.2 kg Bamboo Woven Green and White Fabric Floral Pattern

100% Chemical 32 Ne 0.6 kg Bamboo Knit Dyed Black Fabric

100% 5-6 dtex×95 mm 0.2 kg Mechanical Bamboo fibre

100% 21 Ne 0.2 kg Mechanical Blue and White Bamboo Woven Checkered Pattern Fabric

To perform the scanning electron embroidery hoop, deionised water, balance, microscope (SEM) observations, the pipettes and pipette tips, and a beaker. To CamScan MX2600 was used. In order to perform the mechanical tests, a Hounsfield conduct the moisture absorption and drying Low Load Electric Screw Machine was experiments, the following materials were used. used in addition to fabric: 17cm diameter

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D. Methods (earliest stage) chemical bamboo fiber, fine pulp chemical bamboo fiber, and mechanical SEM Images bamboo fiber. Ten trials were completed for each sample type. The following method Standard test procedures for live specimens was employed: were used to observe the differences in 1. A rectangular paper frame was surface morphology among various bamboo constructed with a rectangular cut out. fibers. The fibers were cut and gold-plated 2. Double-sided tape was then used to apply as preparation. an adhesive surface to one side of the paper frame. The rectangular cut out was Moisture Wicking Tests preserved by cutting through the double- sided tape. AATCC Test Method 79-2007 was 3. Five individual fibers were carefully employed to measure textile absorbency. picked using fine tweezers and placed The general procedure involves dropping along the rectangular cut. water from a fixed height onto a taut surface 4. Masking tape was cut and placed along (made taut through the use of an embroidery both ends of the fibers to hold them in hoop). The time required for the specular place. reflection of a water drop to disappear is 5. The paper frame and the attached fibers recorded as the wetting time. Five readings were then clamped using the Hounsfield are taken, and the shorter the average time, tensile testing machine. the more absorbent the fabric. This AATCC 6. Slits were cut through two ends of the method was slightly modified by using a paper frame so that the only materials pipette with 50 µL of deionised water pulled during the test were the fibers (and instead of a burette. To measure the speed of not the fibers plus the paper frame). drying of the different fabrics, 50 µL of 7. A standard breaking force program was deionised water was placed on a piece of used with a load range of 5N, a speed of fabric cut 4 cm wide and 5 cm long. The 100 mm/min, and an extension range of weight of the fabric was taken before and 10 mm. after the 50 µL of water was introduced, as well as at set time intervals until the weight Yarns of the fabric reached its initial recording. To measure the tensile properties of yarns, Mechanical Tests ASTM standard D 2256-02, Standard Test Method for Tensile Properties of Yarns by Mechanical tests were completed according the Single-Strand Method, was employed. A to various internationally-recognized single-stranded yarn is broken on a tension standards, including those from the testing machine at a predetermined American Society for Testing and Materials elongation rate (300 ± 10 mm/min) so that (ASTM), the International Organization for the breaking force is determined. A straight Standardization (ISO), the British Standards specimen configuration was used with a Institution (BSI), and the American gage length of 250 ± 3 mm gage length. The Association of Textile Chemists and breaking force of individual specimens is the Colorists (AATCC). maximum force to cause the specimen to rupture as read directly from the tension Fibers testing machine expressed in Newtons (ASTM 2003). A total of ten trials were To measure the breaking force of the performed for each yarn type. The breaking bamboo fibers, standard test methods had to tenacity of an individual specimen is be modified to conduct a comparison calculated using equation 1 as follows: adequate for the short and fine chemical bamboo fibers. Bamboo fibers were measured at the following stages: thick pulp Article Designation: Refereed 5 JTATM Volume 6, Issue 3, Spring2010

(1) B=F/T E. Results and Discussion where: B = breaking tenacity, CN per tex F = breaking force, CN SEM Analysis T = linear density, tex The SEM images show various similarities Fabric and differences among the four bamboo fiber types analyzed. Both species of To measure the tear properties of fabric, EN chemical bamboo fiber displayed a tubular ISO 13937-2:2000, Tear properties of and ribbed (celery-like) longitudinal surface; fabrics Part 2: Determination of tear force of the cross sections of both species were filled trouser-shaped test specimens (Single tear with voids (Figure 4.9 and Figure 4.10). The method), was employed. The test method thick pulp of chemical bamboo fiber has a uses a test specimen cut to form trouser- rough and very porous surface (Figure 4.11); shaped legs; the tear force measured is the this is to be expected as it is the closest to force required to propagate a previously the actual bamboo plant among all of the started single tear when the force is applied fiber types. Mechanical bamboo fiber parallel to the cut and the fabric tears in the displayed a bamboo-like longitudinal direction of applied force (ISO 2000). The section, tubular with nodes (Figure 4.12); tear force is calculated from the force peaks the cross section displayed some voids, recorded on the tensile testing machine. A though much fewer than the chemical total of six trials were performed for each bamboo fibers. The mechanical bamboo fabric type, three to calculate the tear force fiber also has a higher linear density (5.88 across warp and three to calculate the tear dtex) than the chemical bamboo fibers (1.56 force across weft. dtex).

Figure 4.9: Phyllostachys edulis Chemical Bamboo Fibre Left: cross-sectional direction (SEM Mag7900X), Right: longitudinal direction, Diameter is 13.4 µm -15.6 µm (SEM Mag3346X)

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Figure 4.10: Bambusa emeiensis Chemical Bamboo Fibre Left: cross-sectional direction (SEM Mag3346X), Right: longitudinal direction (SEM Mag2086X), Diameter is 12.3 µm -15.2 µm

Figure 4.11: Bambusa emeiensis Chemical Bamboo Fibre (Thick Pulp) Left: cross-sectional direction (SEM Mag1406X), Right: longitudinal direction (SEM Mag3152X), Diameter is ≈ 31.5 µm

Figure 4.12: Phyllostachys edulis Mechanical Bamboo Fibre Left: cross-sectional direction (SEM Mag4476X), Right: longitudinal direction (SEM Mag1708X), Diameter is ≈ 16 µm

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Mechanical Tests cotton, , viscose , and polyester are all below that of the bamboo fibers The following section provides summaries tested (Figure 4.13 and Figure 4.14); in table and graph form for the mechanical therefore, bamboo fibers may be more data gathered. resistant to wear and tear than conventional fibers. The raw chemical bamboo fiber was The results for fiber breaking force and not used for comparative purposes (since breaking tenacity illustrate that only one sample was available at this stage mechanically-manufactured bamboo fiber is in the manufacturing process); however, it is more than two times stronger than clear that the strength of the bamboo fibers chemically-manufactured bamboo. There are is more present before continual processing. no significant differences between species at Graph 4.1 shows the mechanical testing the fiber level. The breaking tenacity of results for bamboo fibers.

Figure 4.13: Fibre Breaking Force and Breaking Tenacity Comparison Average Sample Bamboo Species Manufacturing Fibre [Breaking Average No. Method Specification Force Breaking (CN) Tenacity (CN/dtex)

Bambusa Chemical 1 emeiensis (thick pulp) Varied 406 ± 106 Varied Bambusa 2 emeiensis Chemical 1.56 dtex 13.7 ± 2.1 8.75 ± 1.36 Phyllostachys 3 edulis Chemical 1.56 dtex 17.7 ± 2.8 11.4 ± 1.8 Phyllostachys 4 edulis Mechanical 5.88 dtex 146 ± 20 24.9 ± 3.64

Figure 4.14: Tenacity of Conventional Textile Fibres Name Tenacity Tenacity (gf/tex) (CN/dtex) cotton 35 3.5

wool 12 1.2 viscose rayon 20 2 polyester 39.5 3.95

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Graph 4.1: Fibre Breaking Force and Breaking Tenacity Comparison

The breaking force and breaking tenacity of there was no significant difference between bamboo yarn reveal small differences the mechanical properties of different between species and manufacturing method. bamboo species in yarn form. Figure 4.15 It appears that the processing of fiber into and Graph 4.2 illustrate the mechanical yarn creates some level of strength testing results for bamboo yarn. degradation for mechanically-manufactured bamboo. As with bamboo textile fibers,

Figure 4.15: Yarn Breaking Force and Breaking Tenacity Comparison Average Sample Bamboo Manufacturing Yarn Breaking Average Breaking No. Species Method Specification Force Tenacity (CN/tex) (Ne Count) (CN)

Bambusa 1 emeiensis Chemical 32 278 ± 16 15.0 ± 0.87 Phyllostachys 2 edulis Chemical 32 240 ± 13 13.0 ± 0.72 Phyllostachys 3 edulis Chemical 21 485 ± 32 17.2 ± 1.1 Phyllostachys 4 edulis Mechanical 21 499 ± 49 17.7 ± 2.1

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Graph 4.2: Yarn Breaking Force and Breaking Tenacity Comparison

The fabric tear results show that the woven However, the woven chemical bamboo fabrics are more resistant to tear forces than fabric sample contained a floral pattern the knit fabrics. Also, Bambusa emeiensis which almost created a double-layer; endured a higher tear force than therefore, it is difficult to say with certainty Phyllostachys edulis. Ironically, that there is a difference in manufacturing mechanically-manufactured bamboo showed method for these tests. Figure 4.16 and a much lower resistance to tear force than Graph 4.3 show the mechanical testing chemically-manufactured bamboo. results for bamboo fabric.

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Figure 4.17: Fabric Moisture Absorption Comparison Sample Bamboo Manufacturing Fabric Average Number Species Method Specification Warp/Weft Tear Force (N) Bambusa 1 emeiensis Chemical Knit, Ne=32 Warp 15.6 ± 0.59 Bambusa emeiensis Chemical Knit, Ne=32 Weft 9.64 ± 0.70 Phyllostachys 2 edulis Chemical Knit, Ne=32 Warp 7.99 ± 0.29 Phyllostachys edulis Chemical Knit, Ne=32 Weft 5.86 ± 1.20 Phyllostachys 3 edulis Chemical Woven, Ne=21 Warp 64.5 ± 1.9 Phyllostachys edulis Chemical Woven, Ne=21 Weft 59.2 ± 7.4 Phyllostachys 4 edulis Mechanical Woven, Ne=21 Warp 23.9 ± 2.88 Phyllostachys edulis Mechanical Woven, Ne=21 Weft 22.1 ± 0.53

Graph 4.3: Fabric Tear Force Comparison

Moisture Wicking Tests the green printed design on Sample 3 (Phyllostachys edulis chemical bamboo Figure 4.17 indicates the average absorption woven), the average absorption time was times for a drop of water to be absorbed by 2.45 s; when a drop of water was placed the corresponding fabric. Phyllostachys onto the cream-colored part of Sample 3 edulis has by far the quickest absorption (flat design), the water absorbed instantly at time. When a drop of water was placed onto 0.00 s.

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Figure 4.17: Fabric Moisture Absorption Comparison Sample Manufacturing Fabric Average Absorption Number Bamboo Species Method Specification Time (s) Bambusa 1 emeiensis Chemical Knit, Ne=32 5864.80 Phyllostachys 2 edulis Chemical Knit, Ne=32 1376.60 Phyllostachys 3 edulis Chemical Woven, Ne=21 0.00-2.45 Phyllostachys 4 edulis Mechanical Woven, Ne=21 162.87

Figure 4.18 shows the total time that each woven made from Phyllostachys edulis. It fabric took to dry, once wet with one drop of should be noted, however, that the design of water. The fastest drying fabric was the the chemical bamboo woven fabric could mechanical bamboo made from have slowed the drying time because of the Phyllostachys edulis, while the slowest double-layer nature of the pattern. drying fabric was the chemical bamboo

Figure 4.18: Fabric Moisture Drying Comparison Sample Manufacturing Fabric Total Time Needed to Number Bamboo Species Method Specification Dry (s) Bambusa 1 emeiensis Chemical Knit, Ne=32 6673 Phyllostachys 2 edulis Chemical Knit, Ne=32 2853 Phyllostachys 3 edulis Chemical Woven, Ne=21 8196 Phyllostachys 4 edulis Mechanical Woven, Ne=21 452

Figure 4.19 shows the moisture wicking by the absorption time. Note that lower capabilities of the fabrics in question. The numbers indicate higher moisture wicking last column provides the difference between (fast absorption and fast drying). the time of drying and absorbing normalised

Figure 4.19: Moisture Wicking Properties of Bamboo Fabric α: averaged time from range of 0s to 2.45s

Bamboo Manufacturing Fabric Average Total Time (Dry time-Absorb Species Method Specification Absorption Needed to time)/Absorb time Time (s) Dry (s) Bambusa Chemical Knit, Ne=32 5865 6673 6672 emeiensis Phyllostachys Chemical Knit, Ne=32 1377 2853 2852 edulis Phyllostachys Chemical Woven, 1.2α 8196 8195 edulis Ne=21 Phyllostachys Mechanical Woven, 163 452 451 edulis Ne=21

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Figure 4.20 shows the graphs of weight change, or slopes of the graphs, are all small plotted over time after the fabric had and close in value. Graph 4.4 shows the absorbed water. Note that the rates of moisture wicking results for bamboo fabric.

Figure 4.20: Speed of Drying for Various Types of Bamboo Textile Fabric

Graph 4.4: Moisture Wicking Properties of Bamboo Fabric

F. Conclusion processing. At the fiber level, mechanical bamboo‘s breaking tenacity is at least twice There are noticeable differences between as big as chemical bamboo fiber. At the yarn textile strength in fiber, yarn, and fabric level, there are small differences between form, with some apparent degradation in species and manufacturing method for

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breaking tenacity. At the fabric level, longitudinal section resembled a bamboo as Bambusa emeiensis has a bigger tear force a tubular shape with nodes. Perhaps there is and tearing tenacity than Phyllostachys some level of biomimicry in the fibers of edulis. Nevertheless, specie differences in bamboo that can be further explored. fabric form are small. The tearing strength of mechanical bamboo fabric was much There are two main conclusions that are smaller than chemical bamboo fabric; drawn from the results: the species of however this could be due to the woven bamboo is not trivial for bamboo textile design in the chemical bamboo fabric. applications and there are fundamental differences between the type and function of The moisture absorption tests revealed well- bamboo textiles that are manufactured defined differences between species, chemically versus those that are manufacturing method, and textile manufactured mechanically with the aid of specification. In general, the woven bamboo enzymes. Currently, many manufacturers fabric absorbed water much quicker than the who make chemical bamboo fabric add knit bamboo fabric. In knit chemical various species of bamboo into the mixture, bamboo textile form, Bambusa emeiensis without consideration of the differences. took four times longer than Phyllostachys Although the research did not indicate a edulis to absorb water. In woven form significant difference in mechanical (species kept constant with Phyllostachys properties such as breaking tenacity between edulis) the chemical bamboo absorbed water species, moisture wicking properties varied instantaneously, while the mechanical significantly. There are also some blogs bamboo took 165 s on average to absorb. stating that mechanically manufactured Based on these results, chemical bamboo bamboo is better than chemically woven fabric is better at water absorption manufactured bamboo; the study shows that than mechanical bamboo woven fabric, but the two textiles are not interchangeable, and chemical bamboo knit fabric takes a very that their appropriateness will depend on the long time to absorb. There also is a goals of the application. Three specific difference in absorption properties between conclusions can be made from the bamboo species in textile form, and perhaps experimental tests: (1) mechanical bamboo the same differences can be found in raw fibers are much stronger than those bamboo in nature. chemically manufactured, but this strength at the fiber level does not remain consistent The moisture drying tests revealed that some with further processing in yarn and fabric fabrics were better at absorbing than drying. form, (2) Phyllostachys edulis exhibits better Phyllostachys edulis chemical bamboo moisture wicking properties than Bambusa woven fabric was the quickest to absorb, but emeiensis, (3) mechanical bamboo displays the longest to dry. This may have been due better moisture wicking properties than to the double layer of woven material to chemical bamboo. Further work could create the green floral pattern. When explore more species of bamboo, as well as manufacturing method and specification how small changes in the manufacturing were held constant, Phyllostachys edulis process may change the quality of the textile absorbed and dried faster than Bambusa at the fiber, yarn, and fabric levels. In emeiensis; this supports the SEM images summary, there is room for many different since there are more visible voids in the types of species and manufacturing methods chemical bamboo Phyllostachys edulis for bamboo in the textile industry. species. However, the fabric that has the V. Bamboo Textiles: the Limits best moisture wicking property is the mechanical bamboo made of Phyllostachys A. Limitations edulis. This sample absorbed water in a short time (163 s) and dried water in a short This paper shows how the properties of time (452 s); though it did not show many bamboo can be useful for textile applications voids in the SEM cross-sectional image, the in the realm of sustainable development. Article Designation: Refereed 14 JTATM Volume 6, Issue 3, Spring2010

However, there are many bamboo species 1. To reduce the risk of and manufacturing steps not explored here overdependence on textile trade by that would nevertheless, add to the overall local bamboo farmers, diversification understanding of the subject. Also, since and support from outside many bamboo textile operations are closed organizations are essential. off to the public and researchers because of • With the numerous documented intellectual property issues, there is pertinent and well-established end products information regarding manufacturing that from bamboo sources, farmers could not be included in this paper. It is can diversify their product range important to emphasize that bamboo, or any so as to not become too single textile source, will not serve as a susceptible to changes in any one panacea to the sustainability issues of the market. textile sector. Over-reliance on one source, • For bamboo farms that are whether it is for energy or for textiles, is owned by small farmers, contrary to the underlying principles of fair/ethical trade schemes and sustainable development. In addition, fair/ethical trade support different materials have different organizations, sustainable textile mechanical, physical, chemical, and schemes, and connections to technical properties that will serve for a associations with bamboo diverse range of applications. bargaining power (such as INBAR) could be established. B. Challenges and Possible Mitigation Organizations such as the Measures Fairtrade Labeling Organizations (FLO), the Ethical Trading There are many challenges facing the future Initiative, and Sedex, are all of bamboo textiles, including: working to promote fair trade 1. The threat that bamboo farming globally. Organizations such as communities become too dependent Social Accountability on textile industries and are left with International, The Clean Clothes little negotiating power with Campaign, the Fair Wear intermediaries or the global market Foundation, and the International (Bismarck, Baltazar-y-Jimenez et al. Fair Labor Association, work to 2006) promote ethical working 2. The threat of over-exploitation in conditions. general and by an introduction of 2. The risk of overexploitation is heavy machinery (that may damage present with any crop; to keep this the bamboo rhizome system), as well from occurring with bamboo, as with chemical pesticides and increased public pressure and fertilizers. sustainably managed ―bamboo‖ forest 3. The risk of consumer disinterest certifications are suggested. in ―eco-textiles,‖ or otherwise • Public pressure to keep textiles similarly labeled textiles that would organic can help to reduce the risk support the growth in bamboo textiles. of introducing chemicals to For example, world consumption of bamboo farming. The high yield and henequen in Mexico and renewable status of bamboo plummeted, and left many rural also make the use of chemical families desolate, mostly due to the pesticides and fertilizers less development of cheaper synthetic attractive than for other textile polymer materials (Bismarck, raw crops. Baltazar-y-Jimenez et al. 2006). • Bamboo forests are currently poorly managed in comparison to To mitigate some of these risks and address their wood counterparts. Because the challenges, the following is suggested: bamboo is a non-timber resource, Article Designation: Refereed 15 JTATM Volume 6, Issue 3, Spring2010

it is missing in many government buy x number of t-shirts regardless of the classifications and third-party clothing material); a bamboo item would certification schemes. The replace a polyester item, for instance. Two introduction of such measures main items that were left out of the diagram would ensure that bamboo forests but worth mentioning are the number of are continually managed in a workers in industry and government/inter- sustainable manner and would governmental regulation. It is difficult to engender confidence in predict the effect that an increase or consumers. decrease in sustainable bamboo textiles 3. There should be increased yet would have on employment in the sector, clarified public awareness in the mostly because machine automation subject of sustainable textiles to continues to make jobs obsolete in the reduce the threat of consumer textile industry. Regulation (including disinterest. treaties, quotas, tariffs, and taxes) is an important factor for a sustainable bamboo The issue of trade agreements in the textile industry. However, it is not included international textile market is very important here in an attempt to simplify the system as it impacts the environment, workers, boundaries. Also, regulation is likely to companies, end-users, and governments address the trade of textiles or the trade of involved. The influence of government bamboo, but it is not likely to address decisions on the sector, and therefore on the bamboo textiles specifically unless they future of bamboo textiles, will not be treated became major world players in the textile here. It is a complex issue and beyond the market (such as cotton). The relationship scope of this paper, but it is also worth between the number of people who buy SBT mentioning that agreements can have both products and the price of SBTs is shown, positive and negative impacts on the assuming supply (more SBT manufacturers), communities involved, in both the short run remains constant in the long term. In and long run. general, a lower price indicates that more people will be able to buy SBT products. One aspect of the textile industry that undermines sustainable textile development There are two main loops. One is a positive, is the advent of ‗fast fashion.‘ That is, there or reinforcing loop labeled ―sustainable are increasingly short leading times for new bamboo textile industry.‖ This loop shows clothing textiles to reach the consumer the positive relationships between public markets and increasingly short shelf lives of awareness, consumer education, consumer the new clothing textiles. Figure 5.1 shows a voice, retailer voice, the amount of SBT simplified causal loop diagram concerning manufacturing and SBT quantity in the the sustainable bamboo textile industry. It industry, and the number of people who shows how fast fashion undermines the purchase SBT products. This loop also leads entire system of a sustainable bamboo textile to show how a sustainable bamboo textile (SBT) industry, and a sustainable textile industry leads to sustainable bamboo industry in general. The system boundary is forest/farm certification schemes, as well as set with two major conditions: (1) textiles sustainable textile research and are sourced from bamboo and (2) development. The second loop is negative, sustainability is a prerequisite for each stage or balancing, and it is labeled ―fast fashion of the life cycle. Therefore, the word in textile industry.‖ This loop indicates how sustainable in the diagram encompasses the the relationships among quick lead times, relevant categories such as energy, water consumer consumption of fast fashion, and use, and chemicals. the price of bamboo textiles leads to a less sustainable textile industry. The diagram assumes that the total amount of textiles in the worldwide textile stream Low prices and fast fashion are interlinked. remains constant (for example, people will Assuming that one keeps the same budget, Article Designation: Refereed 16 JTATM Volume 6, Issue 3, Spring2010

one can buy things more often if the items textile industry, all other things being equal. are sold at low prices. I will describe one Yet, a truly sustainable textile industry possible scenario using the fast fashion loop. would lead to a decrease in fast fashion, As the amount of SBTs increases, the since unnecessary material waste is a key overall size of the sustainable textile component of sustainability. What is a industry increases; this then leads to a possible solution? One answer is the decrease in the amount of fast fashion. As purchase of sustainable textiles that last fast fashion decreases, consumer longer and are more expensive; people consumption of fast fashion decreases, and would buy clothes less often (and therefore subsequently consumer consumption of engender less textile waste and pollution), SBTs within the fast fashion realm but retailers would make the same profits decreases. As the latter decreases, the price because goods would be sold at a higher of SBT products must increase to make up price. for profit loss (all other things being equal), and this price change means that there will C. Final Recommendations be less people who buy SBT products at this higher price. When the number of people Finally, I propose a sustainable textile mix who buy SBT products decreases, the for the future, similar to the energy mixes in amount of SBTs in the industry decreases, which society has a diverse portfolio of and therefore there is a decrease in the energy sources such as wind, solar, nuclear, overall sustainable textile industry. Fast coal with carbon capture and storage, oil and fashion is therefore creating an unpleasant gas, etc. The current textile mix, with a clear barrier to the sustainable bamboo textile and majority belonging to petroleum-based overall sustainable textile industries. synthetics and cotton fibers, is presented in Figure 5.2. Figure 5.3a and 5.3b show textile The diagram shows that an increase in the mix possibilities, randomly chosen, for the number of SBTs is adding to a sustainable future.

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C. Final Recommendations gas, etc. The current textile mix, with a clear majority belonging to petroleum-based Finally, I propose a sustainable textile mix synthetics and cotton fibres, is presented in for the future, similar to the energy mixes in Figure 5.2. Figure 5.3a and 5.3b show which society has a diverse portfolio of textile mix possibilities, randomly chosen, energy sources such as wind, solar, nuclear, for the future. coal with carbon capture and storage, oil and

Figure 5.2: World Textile Mix (2006)

raw silk Textile Mix in 2006 0.05% 0.23% raw wool cellulosics 1.91% 4.06%

cellulosics raw cotton synthetics 39.81% raw cotton organic cotton synthetics raw wool 53.95% raw silk

Note: Chart generated using data provided by Textile Outlook International (Simpson 2007). Organic cotton data taken from the Organic Cotton Fiber Report (Ferrigno 2006).

NB: man-made fibre demand figures are based on production data; natural fibre demand figures are based on consumption data to avoid inaccuracies arising from wide stock variations from year to year numbers may not sum precisely due to rounding

Figure 5.3a and 5.3b: Textile Mix Possibilities (5.3a, left, by fibre category, 5.3b, right, by fibre type)

The role of bamboo textiles in sustainable development was analysed through a thorough literature review, expert interviews

and discussions, field visits in China, and experimental tests. Bamboo textiles present many solutions to the present unsustainable

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nature of textile engineering; however, consider these two elements for the desired energy, water, and chemical concerns in textile outcome. Further work in this field manufacturing still must be addressed. There could analyse more bamboo species for are textile property variations among both textile applications, as well as treat small species and manufacturing method for variations in manufacturing processes for bamboo textiles. Thus, it is important to the desired outcomes.

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