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Study of Maximum Tensile Strength of Fancy Yarns Using the Design of Experiments

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Study of Maximum Tensile Strength of Fancy Yarns Using the Design of Experiments Mechanics & Industry 20, 403 (2019) Mechanics © AFM, EDP Sciences 2019 & https://doi.org/10.1051/meca/2019033 Industry Available online at: www.mechanics-industry.org REGULAR ARTICLE Study of maximum tensile strength of fancy yarns using the design of experiments Malek Alshukur1,2,* and Alex Fotheringham1 1 School of Textiles and Design, Heriot-Watt University, Galashiels, UK 2 Faculty of Mechanical and Electrical Engineering, Department of Mechanical Engineering of Textile Industries and Their Technologies, Damascus University, Damascus, Syria Received: 29 August 2018 / Accepted: 19 December 2018 Abstract. This study was conducted to identify the factors and the interactions which affect the maximum load of multi-thread fancy yarns. The objectives of this research was to identify the relative contribution of each factor and interaction leading to the maximisation of the tensile strength. The fancy yarns were made on a hollow-spindle spinning machine. The experimental design of this study had seven factors – with two levels each and was repeated five times. It was found that using two single yarns, instead of a similar two-ply yarn, for the core component increased the value of maximum load. The effect component contributed positively to the load only when it was a three-ply cotton yarn rather than a three-ply bamboo yarn since the former had interactions with the core and the binder. Excessive wraps reduced the maximum load. The effect of the overfeed ratio on the maximum load was weak. The manufacturing process in general had low levels of variability. This research is important because it contributes to a broader understanding to the effect of seven factors on the structure, quality, and mechanical properties of multi-thread fancy yarn. Keywords: Fancy yarns / tensile strength / design of experiments / hollow-spindle spinning system 1 Introduction drafted roving. Similarly, the evenness of the differential- twist wrapped yarns, except for the yarn produced from a fi Fancy gimp yarn is a composite novelty yarn that can be lament wrapping a yarn, improved after the second made on conventional doubling and twisting machines in a twisting stage when raising both the wrapping twist and two-stage process or in a one-stage process on hollow- the twisting twist [6]. In another research on overfed fancy spindle spinning machines. Studying the load of fancy yarns, it was reported that decreasing the supply speed yarns is important to predict the strength of fabrics and while increasing the delivery speed (i.e. reducing clothes made of those yarns. When the hollow-spindle the overfeed ratio) led to an increase in the breaking system was used to make the fancy yarns, several tenacity [1]. researchers conducted experimental studies to understand Two more comprehensive studies were also conducted fancy yarns and their properties and to advise on the best by Nergis and Candan who used input yarns which were practice for their designs [1–6]. In a study on two types of different in various aspects, i.e. being single or plied, coarse fi or fine, standard or high bulk [7,8]. Those two studies also differential-twist wrapped yarn, the rst yarn was made of fl a multi-filament wrapping a drafted roving while the accounted for the in uence of the wrapping direction of the second yarn was made of a filament wrapping a yarn. These binder, whether Z or S, on the bouclé yarn structure. The two composite yarns were processed separately by a further bouclé yarns of those studies were made in a one-stage twisting stage. It was found that the tenacity of those two process by a combined system of a hollow-spindle and a ring spindle. The results showed that the number of the composite yarns had a positive relationship with both the fi twisting twist and the wrapping twist. However, the effect pro les for the 100% overfed s-wrapped yarns was tenacity decreased when the sum of both types of twist higher than those made at a 200% overfeed ratio. However, reached 900 tpm. Moreover, the tenacity was higher for the when the Z-wrapping was used, opposite results were yarn which was made from a multi-filament wrapping a reported. Further, following the use of coarser input yarns, a significant increase in the average number of the profiles was reported. Moreover, the average height of the effect * e-mail: [email protected] profiles was slightly greater for the Z-wrapped yarns than 2 M. Alshukur and A. Fotheringham: Mechanics & Industry 20, 403 (2019) those of the S-wrapped yarns. The previous two studies component properties and the machine settings on the gave consistent results regardless of the type and number of structure and quality parameters of the final fancy yarn the input yarns. They also showed that the structure of the were reported. This study showed that using two single resultant multi-thread bouclé yarn is more influenced by yarns, instead of one two-ply yarn, in the core of the gimp the manufacturing conditions than the type of material of yarns, gave positive benefits to the gimp yarn structure. the components. However, since the numerical results were Those benefits included reductions in the number, size, not exactly the same, this suggests that the type, number, and circularity ratio of non-gimp profiles. Moreover, a and properties of the input yarns may also be important for thicker, 167/34, textured polyester binder also decreased the structure of multi-thread bouclé yarn. This particular the number of non-gimp profiles and made them smaller concept is important and can be built upon to start a new than the case of a thinner, 145/77, regular nylon binder investigation. [10]. Further, a study was conducted to study the effect of When considering the effect of tension of the core yarn the supply speed, the delivery speed, and the rotational on the final bouclé yarn structure, it was found improve- speed of the machine on the number of plain knot-knot ment of the bouclé yarn structure could be made using a fancy profiles made of various loops of the final fancy yarn low level of tension [11]. The improvements included [2]. This study resulted in an informative and significant increases to the number of bouclé profiles, reductions to the statistical model for the relationship between these three variability of the size of bouclé profiles, increases the input factors and the number of these fancy profiles. circularity ratio of fancy profile, and obtaining regular However, this research was not exhaustive in terms of spiral and sigmoidal sections and wavy corrugations combinations of manufacture parameters, yarn count, between the fancy profiles. Following this, the influence yarn types, and tension of the input yarns. Further, it did of the overfeed ratio, the number of wraps, the component not implement all types of final effect profiles in the properties, and the machine settings on the linear density discussion and analysis. Following this study, the same of fancy yarn was also studied [12]. To complete those two author conducted a similar study, using the same studies by accounting for the maximum tensile strength of methodology, but making fancy yarns from two linen the final fancy yarns, the current study was conducted. effect input yarns (components). The new study resulted Further, this study was built upon the same fractional in another informative regression model expressing the experimental design and materials. Combining those relationship between the same three technological pa- studies may give a comprehensive and rounded under- rameters and the number of open loop-arc effect profiles, standing of fancy yarns. in the unit of length, of the fancy yarn [3]. This relationship was proportional to the overfeed ratio but inversely proportional to the number of wraps. Again 2 Methodology these three factors (the supply speed, the delivery speed, and the rotational speed) were used to design a three-level Seven factors were used with two levels for each factor. experiment to determine their influence on the height and Factor A was the material type, form, and thickness of the width of the effect profiles and the number of profiles the core component. Factor B was the material type, in the unit length of the final fancy yarn [4]. In another form, and thickness of the binder. Factor C was the study, the effect of these three factors and their material type, form, and thickness of the effect compo- interaction on linear density and distance between the nent. Factor D was the supply speed of the effect effect profiles was measured [5]. component. Factor E was the rotational speed of the In a recent study, the effects of false-twist on structure hollow-spindle. Factor F was the delivery speed of the and tensile properties of multi-thread gimp and overfed final gimp yarn. Factor G represented the use the false- fancy yarns were reported. Several incomplete breaks and twist hook at the bottom outlet-hole of the hollow corresponding peaks were observed in the load-extension spindle. Due to the high number of factors and levels, and charts which indicated that those fancy yarns had been because of the possibility of interactions between some subjected to several breaks before the whole structure factors, the technique of design of experiments (DOE) failed completely [9]. The multiple-break of the structure is was used. Further, a fractional experimental design was a unique feature for multi-thread fancy yarns that is unseen used instead of the full factorial design in order to reduce in traditional ply yarns. Further, any textile structure the high number of trials which would be necessary to made from such multi-thread fancy yarns, such as fabrics conduct the experiment in the case of a full factorial and clothes, may become weak and lose their stability as design, i.e.
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