Men’s Saddle Shoulder Sweater SweaterMaker for Windows charted this shirt for machine knitters. It is a man’s saddle sweater with a crew-neck. Like all Saddle Shoulder sweaters, there is a small band of fabric extending across the shoulders from the sleeves to the neck. Unlike most sweaters, the sleeves for this Saddle Shoulder are knitted from the top down: that is, starting at the neck, across the shoulders, and then the down from the shoulder to the wrist. The sweater calls for a machine crochet hem at the waist and wrist, and the crew neck trim is a 2x2 rib with a roll collar. All those unusual design elements might sound intimidating, but never fear! SweaterMaker gives you complete instructions to knit everything. You’ll see. 

Here are the specific design settings for this sweater.

Size: men’s 48 Body: saddle shoulder Front: pullover Neck: crew neck Hem: machine crochet (at waist and wrist) Trim: 2x2 rib with rolled collar (around the neck) Customizing: none.

Here is a list of the drawings and text instructions appearing below. SweaterMaker creates them all, automatically, every time (unless you tell it not to), in a fraction of a second.

1. Back Saddle Shoulder Body 2. Front Saddle Shoulder Body 3. Saddle Shoulder Sleeve 4. Instructions

Note: when you’re actually running SweaterMaker, you can print the pictures either one by one, or in a group. I have collected them here in a group, to make this article easier to read.

Not a machine knitter? Prefer hand ? Check out the drawings of the back, front, and sleeve. I have had several hand knitters tell me they use the charts for their hand-knitted garments, and simply write notes to themselves on the printouts. Page 2 of 13

Designed by Colleen Kobe Charted by SweaterMaker for Windows Aurora, Illinois, USA (630) 701-2282 www.colleenkobestudios.com October 21, 2009

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1. Back Saddle Shoulder Body

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2. Front Saddle Shoulder Body

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3. Saddle Shoulder Sleeve

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4. Instructions

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M E N ' S S A D D L E S H O U L D E R S W E A T E R

A Pullover Sweater Featuring a Saddle Body Style and a Crew neck.

Designed by Colleen Kobe Men's - 48 10/21/2009 : acrylic, 3-ply Main Tension : 8 Hem Tension : 5 Units of Measurement : Inches Stitch : 7.00 st/in Row Gauge : 10.00 r/in Hem Style : Machine Crochet Neckline Trim Style : 2x2 with Roll Collar

------User Notes Free Pattern! These text instructions were created by SweaterMaker for Windows. www.colleenkobestudios.com ------

Abbreviation Description

1s-2r-3x 1 stitch every 2 rows 3 times BO bind off CO cast on COL carriage on left COR carriage on right dec EON every other needle EOS every other stitch FK full knit FNR full-needle rib HP hold position HT hem tension inc IWP in work position K knit MB main bed MT main tension n[-1] needle 1 left of 0 n[2] needle 2 right of 0 n[-30..31] the needles between 30 left of 0 and 31 right of 0, including needles n[-30] and n[31] OWP out of work position

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PK partial knit PU pick up RC row counter RCxxx Row counter number xxx. Example: RC020 means row number 20. RG row gauge SG stitch gauge sl slip SO scrap off (using ravel cord and waste yarn) SR st(s) stitch(es) T tension Tx/y Set tension on main bed carriage to x, and tension or ribber carriage to y. Example: T6.0/5.3 would mean set the main bed carriage tension to 6.0, and the ribber carriage tension to 5.3. WP work position

Note: unless otherwise specified, this pattern conforms to the following rule: if the row counter number is EVEN, the carriage will be on the RIGHT. So if the pattern says "RC104", you can assume the carriage should be on the right.

READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY BEFORE KNITTING.

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B A C K

MACHINE CROCHET HEM RC000, T5. Bring 164 sts (n[-82..82]) all the way out, so that the needles are fully extended (usually corresponds to HP if the carriage is set for partial knit; do NOT set your carriage to PK).

1. Tie a small slip knot in your yarn. Slip your latch tool into the loop created by your slip knot. Starting at the left side of the bed, bring the latch tool beneath and between the first two needles in WP; let the yarn wrap around the LEFT side of the first needle in WP. * Move the latch tool at about a 45-degree angle (hook facing you) up between the needles, catch the yarn, and draw it LOOSELY through the loop already on the latch tool. ** Repeat from * to ** all the way across the bed: move one needle right; go up and catch the yarn; pull through loosely. 2. When you get to the last needle in WP, slip the loop on the needle and thread the carriage. Gently push all sts and loops down the needles so that the carriage won't have to push them itself. K one row across, right to left. 3. Unthread the carriage, remove it from the bed, and put it on the right side of the bed again. Leave it there for the moment. 4. Bring all needles in WP back out to the fully extended position again. Very carefully, push the fabric on the needles forward until they touch the latches. Do not let the sts fall off the needles! 5. Wrap a small loop of yarn around your latch tool. As before, bring the latch tool beneath and between the first two needles in WP and let the yarn wrap around the left (out)side of the first needle in WP. * Reach up with the tool, grab the yarn, and pull it through the loop on the tool. ** Repeat from * to ** all the way across the bed, left to right, until you get to the last needle. 6. The next part is tricky: you have to remove the st currently on the last needle, put the crochet st on the needle, and then put the original st back on the needle. With one hand, hold the latch tool with the loop still on it. With the other hand and your transfer tool, remove the st on the needle; put the loop on the latch tool on the needle; and then put the st on the transfer tool back on the needle. Gently push all sts and loops down the needles; K one row across, right to left; and last, move the carriage to the right side of the bed without dropping sts or knitting a row.

Repeat steps 5&6 -- 35 times; knit one last row so that the carriage ends on the right.

Shaping Summary for the Sweater Back

RC000: n[-82..82], T8. K to RC019.

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RC019: n[-82..82], T8. Inc 1s-19r-8x, then 1s-20r-1x. Therefore, at the designated row counts, you will have these needles in WP:

RC019: n[-83..83] RC076: n[-86..86] RC133: n[-89..89] RC038: n[-84..84] RC095: n[-87..87] RC152: n[-90..90] RC057: n[-85..85] RC114: n[-88..88] RC171: n[-91..91]

K straight to RC192.

ARMHOLE SHAPING (on outside edges of work): RC192: BO 11s-1r-2x RC194: Dec 1s-2r-11x

SHOULDER SHAPING (on outside edges of work): RC302: SR dec 5s-2r-8x

BACK NECK SHAPING (on inside edge of work): RC308: Bring all needles LEFT of n[15] to HP. All remaining shaping is on left side of the needles in WP. RC308: SR dec 2s-2r-1x, then 3s-2r-4x

Refer to the table above to determine whether needles NOT knit will be scrapped off, bound off, etc. See the table below of row counters and the needles in WP on all rows.

Detailed List of Back Rows and the Needles in WP

RC192: n[-91..80] RC210: n[-71..71] RC309: n[ 17..49] RC193: n[-80..80] RC212: n[-70..70] RC310: n[ 20..49] RC194: n[-79..79] RC214: n[-69..69] RC311: n[ 20..44] RC196: n[-78..78] RC302: n[-64..69] RC312: n[ 23..44] RC198: n[-77..77] RC303: n[-64..64] RC313: n[ 23..39] RC200: n[-76..76] RC304: n[-59..64] RC314: n[ 26..39] RC202: n[-75..75] RC305: n[-59..59] RC315: n[ 26..34] RC204: n[-74..74] RC306: n[-54..59] RC316: n[ 29..34] RC206: n[-73..73] RC307: n[-54..54] RC317: n[ 29..29] RC208: n[-72..72] RC308: n[ 17..54]

Break yarn, rethread carriage, and K 1 row over all sts. Scrap off shoulder and waste. Reset RC to RC308, put carriage on LEFT, thread carriage, and K the other side of the back, reversing all shaping directions.

RC318. Break yarn, rethread carriage, and K 1 row over all sts. Scrap off the shoulders and back neck as follows:

Left Shoulder : 40 sts (n[-69..-30]) Back Neck : 58 sts (n[-29..29]) Right Shoulder : 40 sts (n[30..69])

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F R O N T

RC000: n[-91..91], T5. Knit the front the same as the back all the way to RC192.

Shaping Summary for the Sweater Front

ARMHOLE SHAPING (on outside edges of work): RC192: BO 11s-1r-2x RC194: Dec 1s-2r-11x

SHOULDER SHAPING (on outside edges of work): RC302: SR dec 5s-2r-8x

FRONT NECK SHAPING (on inside edge of work): RC268: SO n[-15..15]. Bring all needles LEFT of the scrapped-off sts to HP. All remaining front neck shaping is on the left side of the needles in WP. RC268: Dec 1s-1r-7x, then 1s-2r-7x

Refer to the table above to determine whether needles NOT knit will be scrapped off, bound off, etc. See the table below of row counters and the needles in WP on all rows.

Detailed List of Front Rows and the Needles in WP

RC192: n[-91..80] RC214: n[-69..69] RC283: n[ 27..69] RC193: n[-80..80] RC268: n[ 16..69] RC285: n[ 28..69] RC194: n[-79..79] RC269: n[ 17..69] RC287: n[ 29..69] RC196: n[-78..78] RC270: n[ 18..69] RC303: n[ 29..64] RC198: n[-77..77] RC271: n[ 19..69] RC305: n[ 29..59] RC200: n[-76..76] RC272: n[ 20..69] RC307: n[ 29..54] RC202: n[-75..75] RC273: n[ 21..69] RC309: n[ 29..49] RC204: n[-74..74] RC274: n[ 22..69] RC311: n[ 29..44] RC206: n[-73..73] RC275: n[ 23..69] RC313: n[ 29..39] RC208: n[-72..72] RC277: n[ 24..69] RC315: n[ 29..34] RC210: n[-71..71] RC279: n[ 25..69] RC317: n[ 29..29] RC212: n[-70..70] RC281: n[ 26..69]

Break yarn, rethread carriage, and K 1 row over all sts. Scrap off shoulder and waste. Reset RC to RC268, put carriage on LEFT, thread carriage, and K the other side of the back, reversing all shaping directions.

RC318. Break yarn, rethread carriage, and K 1 row over all sts. Scrap off the shoulders as follows:

Left Shoulder : 40 sts (n[-69..-30]) Right Shoulder : 40 sts (n[30..69])

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R I G H T S L E E V E (knitted top down)

Note: When you knit the RIGHT saddle sleeve, you will hang the BACK on the LEFT side of the bed and the FRONT on the RIGHT side of the bed.

SADDLE. Cast on 18 sts (n[-9..9]) in waste yarn on MB. K 11 rows, then 1 row ravel cord. COR; change to MC. Set RC000.

1. With the RIGHT side facing you, pick up the innermost right shoulder st (that is, the one closest to the neck) on the FRONT that was taken off on ravel cord. Hang it on n[9]. 2. With the RIGHT side facing you, pick up the innermost right shoulder st (that is, the one closest to the neck) on the BACK that was taken off on ravel cord. Hang it on n[-9]. 3. K one row. 4. Repeat steps 1..3: pick up the next shoulder st on the front and the back and hang it on the SAME needle as before. You will be working from the neck outwards to the shoulder. 5. K one row WITHOUT hanging sts on needles. 6. Perform steps 1 through 5 until all the shoulder sts have been knitted. You will end on RC058. Notice that you will always knit ONLY on n[-9..9]; there are no increases or decreases.

SLEEVE CAP. RC058: n[ -9.. 9]. You are now at the top of the shoulder, the saddle is knitted, and all the shoulder sts are hung. Cut yarn.

Bring n[-70..70] to WP. Take the back's armhole bindoff sts (there will be 11 of them) and hang them on n[-70..-60]. Take the front's 11 armhole bindoff sts and hang them on n[60..70]. Then hang the rest of the back and front as evenly as possible on the needles in WP. Rethread carriage and K 1 row over all sts from left to right. Cut yarn again.

Set carriage to partial knit. Put all needles OUTSIDE n[-9..9] into HP. The sleeve cap is shaped by shortrowing: selectively bringing needles into WP all along the edges, until the cap reaches the bottom of the armhole. The shortrowing is done on BOTH SIDES of the armhole.

When you shortrow, be sure to wrap the yarn around the first needle (on the carriage side) in HP beside the last needle in WP. This prevents unattractive holes along the edge of the sleeve.

RC058: n[ -9.. 9] : SR inc 4s-1r-1x RC060: n[-13..13] : SR inc 5s-1r-1x RC062: n[-18..18] : SR inc 1s-2r-10x RC082: n[-28..28] : SR inc 2s-2r-10x RC102: n[-48..48] : SR inc 1s-2r-11x RC126: n[-59..59] : bring all remaining sts on the side opposite the carriage to WP on

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this and the next row.

Begin the sleeve decrease down to the wrist. K to RC134.

RC134: n[-70..70], T8. Dec 1s-6r-3x, then 1s-7r-25x. Therefore, at the designated row counts, you will have these needles in WP:

RC134: n[-69..69] RC201: n[-59..59] RC264: n[-50..50] RC140: n[-68..68] RC208: n[-58..58] RC271: n[-49..49] RC146: n[-67..67] RC215: n[-57..57] RC278: n[-48..48] RC152: n[-66..66] RC222: n[-56..56] RC285: n[-47..47] RC159: n[-65..65] RC229: n[-55..55] RC292: n[-46..46] RC166: n[-64..64] RC236: n[-54..54] RC299: n[-45..45] RC173: n[-63..63] RC243: n[-53..53] RC306: n[-44..44] RC180: n[-62..62] RC250: n[-52..52] RC313: n[-43..43] RC187: n[-61..61] RC257: n[-51..51] RC320: n[-42..42] RC194: n[-60..60]

K straight to RC328. RC328: n[-42..42]. Begin sleeve cuff.

Scrap off all sts on ravel and waste. Bring n[-38..38] to WP on MB. Rehang on ribber, BUT transfer the sts on the following needles to the needle next to it.

n[-30] n[-22] n[-14] n[ -6] n[ 2] n[ 11] n[ 20] n[ 29]

RC000, T5. 76 sts (n[-38..38]) sts already on MB. Machine-crochet the 20 rows as before (hand-crochet, knit, hand-crochet, knit, etc). Then bind off loosely.

L E F T S L E E V E

Note: When you knit the LEFT saddle sleeve, you will hang the BACK on the RIGHT side of the bed and the FRONT on the LEFT side of the bed.

Knit the left sleeve the same as the right sleeve, reversing all left/right directions.

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F I N I S H I N G

COLLAR OR NECK TRIM

NECK TRIM NOTE. Unlike most other areas of knitting, the number of stitches to pick up along a knitted edge is difficult to calculate without the garment. There are many unknown variables involved, like the amount the garment shrinks after it is washed or blocked the first time. Therefore, the number of sts given are approximations, at best. FEEL FREE TO ADJUST THE NUMBER OF NECK STITCHES AS NEEDED FOR YOUR SWEATER!

RC000, T8. Bring 158 sts (n[-79..79]) to WP on MB. With the right side facing, pick up the neck sts and hang them on the MB. K 1 row. Transfer every 2 sts to ribber; K until desired length in 2x2 rib. Transfer sts on ribber bed back to MB. T8: K 10 rows in stockinette stitch. BO loosely.

Sew the side seams and hide tails. Block carefully. You're done!

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Note: the address and web site above have been replaced by:

Colleen Kobe Studios 1350 W Indian Trl Apt 9 Aurora, IL 60506-6017 USA (630) 701-2282 www.colleenkobestudios.com

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