Paxos Overview
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 1 of 42 At Agni Travel we specialise in offering individual, 'unpackaged' rental properties, including luxury villas with pools, traditional houses, and apartments. We offer accommodation on the Greek Islands, Turkey, Italy and Cyprus.
We have handpicked all our properties individually, strictly on the basis of quality and value for money and we carry out regular inspections to ensure they maintain the standards we have set. We also work closely with owners to keep all the properties up-to-date and this allows us to have an intimate knowledge of all properties.
We have supplied this villa book to give you a little bit of knowledge about the Island and this fascinating Country and if you would like a copy of any of the information we would be more than happy to email it to you. Please do not remove any pages from this book so our future guests can enjoy it as much as yourselves.
We hope you find everything as you have expected but if you need anything at all, please do not hesitate to call us during office hours as we want you to relax and have an enjoyable holiday.
If this is your first time travelling with us or you are one of our many repeat clients we hope you enjoy your holiday and will return to experience another stay with us soon.
The Agni Travel Team
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 2 of 42 OUR PAXOS OFFICE
Our Paxos office is located in Gaios just opposite the police station. It is on the road towards the new port from the centre of Giaos and just past the main electricity office (DEH)
Opening times: 9am – 1pm & 5pm – 9pm Monday to Saturday.
Closed on Sunday.
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 3 of 42 ESSENTIAL ADVICE:
A IR C ONDITIONING Where air conditioning units are fitted within our properties Agni Travel does not charge a local fee for their usage. However, due to the high running costs of air conditioning and to help the environment, clients are requested to observe our booking terms (part 2(c)) for proper use: Windows and doors must be kept closed while units are on. Air conditioning must only be used when you are in the property and should be switched off when you leave. (The units, being fan assisted, will very quickly cool your property on your return).
F IRE S AFETY Please make a note of where all the exits are and the location of the fire equipment in your accommodation. Be especially careful when barbequing as the surrounding vegetation gets very dry during the summer. Always ensure that hot coals have been completely extinguished. (The owners of some properties, due to extreme fire risk, do not allow the use of barbeques so please check with us first).
F URNITURE Please do not take the indoor furniture or furnishings (eg. cushions, throws, pillows etc.) outside as these will spoil in the sun or if it should rain. If the outdoor furniture provided is not adequate, please let us know.
L OCKING UP Although Greece is generally safe, we recommend that whenever you leave your accommodation you ensure that all windows, French doors and shutters are locked, and the air conditioning, fans and lights are switched off.
S IESTA In Greece siesta is taken very seriously. Between the hours of 15.00 and 17.00, shops close and people go home to sleep. If your villa has local neighbours, please be considerate.
S UN U MBRELLAS Please make sure that the umbrellas are closed at night and when you leave the property. The wind can ‘whip’ up very suddenly, causing damage to the umbrella itself and to surrounding property. If they are left open and unattended we will have to ask you to pay for any damage incurred and for any broken umbrellas.
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 4 of 42 T OILETS Please be considerate of the drainage systems and remember that a blocked toilet may not be resolved as quickly as we would like, especially in the high season.
W ATER AND P LUMBING Tap water is drinkable but due to different mineral content it is advisable to use bottled water for drinking and making ice.
Please use water sparingly. There is a possibility of occasional water cuts due to water shortages in the height of the summer. If your water does stop, then please immediately notify us so that we can try to arrange an emergency supply.
Location of the hot water heater switch is in the fuse box. Please ensure the switch is up when hot water is required, but we suggest that while showering the hot water heater switch is turned off.
PAXOS COMMON QUESTIONS
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 5 of 42 DOCTORS There are three Doctors on Paxos, the most senior being Dr. Kosta, who speaks good English. He can be contacted on: 6977 837 700, 24hrs.
There is also a clinic in Bogdanatika, where doctors are able to perform minor operations. Clinic no: 26620 31466.
In an emergency, a helicopter service is available to transport patients to the mainland.
The only pharmacy on Paxos is in Gaios and it is open from 08.30 - 14.00 and 18.00 - 21.00. The pharmacy is closed Sunday. English is spoken.
Gaios also has a Dental Surgery.
BANKS AND CASH MACHINES Paxos has just one Bank, which is situated in Gaios where there are also several ATMs. There are exchange offices in each resort, however, and there is also one ATM in Lakka. Credit cards are accepted in some shops, but do not assume that everyone will take them.
PETROL STATIONS Paxos has two Petrol Stations, one in Gaios, the other in Magazia. Both of these are open from 08.00hrs to 14.00hrs and 18.00hrs to 21.00hrs, including Sundays during the summer months.
TELEPHONES There are numerous public telephones dotted around the island of Paxos. These are operated by phone cards that can be purchased either from kiosks or supermarkets. These are usually in denominations of 3, 5 or 9 Euros. There are Internet cafes in Gaios, Lakka and Loggos.
POLICE The Paxos Police Station is based in Gaios with a team of two policemen. The phone number is 26620 32222 although due to the lack of manpower, this is not 100% reliable.
WATER Paxos is a very dry island. Until recently it was dependent on stored rain water and on water brought to the island in huge floating rubber tanks. There is now a reservoir near Gaios, but water remains a scarce and precious commodity. The quality of the tap water may not be what you are used to and we recommend you drink bottled water, which can be bought everywhere. Please use the water economically.
WATER SPORTS
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 6 of 42 There are several water sports options on Paxos, with a scuba diving centre at Lakka as well as water skiing, windsurfing, para-kiting and ringo rides at Harami Beach, Lakka. Topper sailing boats and pedaloes can also be hired. There are also water sports at Moggonisi.
Small boats can be hired at various places.
Snorkelling is very popular all round the island, because of the clarity of the water and the rocky coastline.
PUBLIC HOLIDAYS AND FESTIVALS Paxos has its own Patron Saint, Saint Gaios, who brought Christianity to the island and after whom the capital was named. His celebration day is 30th June. The Paxiots, like all Greeks, celebrate the Assumption of the Virgin on 15th August and many other name days and festival days, also celebrated by the Corfiots.
WHAT TO BUY IN PAXOS Shopping for food on Paxos is easier than it was a few years ago, with better-stocked shops and more frequent arrivals of fresh produce. General stores tend to open from 08.30hrs until 14.00hrs, Monday to Saturday, opening again after 18.00hrs though some may remain closed on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday evenings. These stores are closed on Sundays.
The bakeries are open each morning for fresh bread, however, purchases must be made early as quite often they sell out very quickly. Thankfully the supermarkets also stock bread.
Supermarkets stay open all day, closing a little earlier on Saturday afternoons.
When it comes to shopping for souvenirs or gifts, such shops open all day and every day.
Due to the cosmopolitan nature of tourism on Paxos, there are surprisingly chic boutiques and jewellery shops, not only in Gaios, but also in Loggos and Lakka.
The olive oil of Paxos is famous for its quality, and makes a great buy.
There are a good number of gift shops in the three main villages of Gaios, Loggos and Lakka and craft ware and tapestry work are particularly good quality. Jewellery is also of a high standard and reasonably priced.
TAVERNAS AND BARS Loggos has four tavernas along the waterfront, offering a selection of local dishes and Mediterranean cuisine. Freshly-caught fish is a speciality here.
Gaios has around 20 tavernas and snack bars with something for everyone including Greek and Mediterranean food, vegetarian menus and also fast food such as pizza and kebabs and grilled chicken. There are also two nightclubs here.
There are 12 tavernas and restaurants in Lakka offering Greek and Italian food, and some very good fish. Lakka also has a selection of bars with music, staying open late at night.
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 7 of 42 WELCOME TO PAXOS! Agni Travel welcomes you to Paxos. The following guide will help you make the most of your holiday.
THE ISLAND OF PAXOS Paxos has been described as one of the world's ‘Top Twenty Great Escapes’. It is not difficult to see why. Surrounded by crystalline waters, with picturesque harbours and tranquil bays scattered along its east coast and a succession of sheer white cliffs and caves to the west, it remains both unspoilt and charming. But don’t take our word for it, visit this enchanting island and it will reveal the secret of its magic and charm to you as well.
AN INTRODUCTION TO PAXOS At just 10 km long by 4 km wide Paxos is the smallest of the main Ionian Islands. Visitors return year after year to experience the intimacy of this peaceful haven, the genuine friendliness of the islanders, and the captivating scenery.
300,000 olive trees, many gnarled and twisted from hundreds of years of growth, blanket much of the island. The olive groves are interwoven with dry-stone walls, and narrow paths that often lead to derelict farmhouses and abandoned stone olive presses. The floor of the groves dance with dappled sunshine and provide shelter to numerous species of brightly coloured wild flowers.
Here and there a vineyard will flourish, whilst the whole island is abundant with churches; more than 60 in total.
Along the coastline villages and hamlets, each a clutter of little buildings with shuttered windows and red tiled roofs, nestle twixt the verdant greenery of the trees and the azure waters beyond.
It is this serene and inspiring landscape that makes a holiday on Paxos a truly memorable experience.
RELAXING Laze by the pool, or search for secret coves that can only be reached by motor-boat. With sparkling waters and beachside tavernas awaiting you, Paxos is a perfect 'stress cure'.
RETURN VISITORS Incredibly varied, the island has something to offer everyone, and judging by the number of visitors who return year after year, it has a great deal to offer to many.
SAFETY Paxos is safe, the locals honest, and you need not worry about walking on your own at night. If there were any danger at all, it would be from other tourists. Tourist resorts sometimes attract individuals who are looking for an opportunity to steal easily. But the locals are a tight community and will immediately investigate a suspicious person. Crime and theft is very rare, and even these days many locals do not lock their car or homes.
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 8 of 42 PAXOS CATS AND DOGS In Paxos, as in many parts of Greece, cats thrive. However, please do not feed stray cats and dogs or let them inside your accommodation. Subsequent clients may dislike or be allergic to them. More importantly, stray animals become dependent on food given to them during the summer season and may suffer during the winter months when there are no tourists to feed them.
MONEY AND ATMS The local currency is of course the Euro. ATMs are readily available throughout the island, particularly in Gaios. Credit cards are now widely accepted on Paxos.
WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU NEED A DOCTOR? Should you need healthcare during you holiday do not worry, you will be in good hands. Most Greek doctors speak English and many have trained in the UK. The general hospital in Corfu Town is a little old, but the care good. There are several private clinics on the island and although you pay your travel insurance will usually cover the costs.
If you need a doctor please refer to the emergency numbers at the beginning of this book.
PAXOS AND THE ROADS Greek roads have improved over the years and pot-holes are no longer quite so plentiful, although they do still exist, especially on the smaller roads. However, the overriding problem is olives. Many roads are olive tree lined and olives tend to fall onto the tarmac to be squashed by your rental Suzuki Jeep's tyres, ensuring that only the finest quality cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil is drizzled in your path! Watch out as this can make for a very slippery drive.
DO N OT W ORRY With extra care and respect for other road users your driving experience here will be a delight. Around a corner you might meet a donkey, but you will almost certainly also find a breathtaking view. Take a turn off the main roads and go exploring, search for a tiny cove or traditional hamlet. You may get slightly mislaid, but you won’t get completely lost, Paxos isn’t big enough for that!
DRIVING LICENCE When driving your rental car, it is necessary to carry your driving licence at all times. If you do not have a new 'photo' version, then we recommend you carry your passport as well.
D RINK DRIVING LAWS The laws governing drink-driving are similar to those in much of Europe, and the maximum legal blood alcohol concentration limit when driving is .05%, somewhat stricter that in the UK where it is .08%.
WATER Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 9 of 42 The water supply to your villa can come from two sources:
LOCAL MAINS: The local water supply is usually of high quality as it comes directly from the mountain (usually from a bore hole). However, the mineral content might be too high for delicate tummies, especially young children.
A S TERNA: Most villas and apartments are sensibly built with an underground ‘sterna’. These store rainwater that has been collected from the roof during the winter months and is usually located under your villa. Consequently, it may be unwise to drink, although washing your hair with the water will leave it incredibly soft. If the sterner runs dry water often has to be trucked in at great expense to the owner. Therefore, during your stay, please:
Do not water the garden without the owner's permission
Make sure taps are not left running
Where possible take showers rather than a bath
N O WATER ? If there is a power cut you may find your water supply goes off as most water is pumped. There are also occasionally water cuts, although these rarely last for more than an hour or so.
B OTTLED WATER Generally, you should not have a problem drinking the local mains water, but to be on the safe side we would recommend drinking bottled water.
VILLAGES OF PAXOS
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 10 of 42 LOGGOS You might be familiar with the expression ‘small but perfectly formed’. The originator of this phrase may well have been sitting outside a quayside cafe in Loggos when he thought of it!
With around 200 permanent inhabitants, the pretty village of Loggos is one of the smallest on Paxos. With a hillside backdrop of olive trees and a handful of attractive villas dotted amongst the groves, Loggos’s pastel-washed houses and shops cluster around the tiny harbour. Here, when they’re not out at sea, fishermen will sit quietly mending their nets. An enchanting scene that has changed little in many a long year, it attracts photographers and painters alike.
With its three mini-markets, tempting fresh bread from the bakery and supplies of fresh fruit and vegetables brought over regularly from the mainland, the village is quite able to meet your self- catering needs.
Nightclubs and discos are not a part of life in Loggos. However, the waterfront tavernas offer the warmest hospitality you could wish for, a mouth-watering choice of dishes with freshly caught fish topping the menus and the opportunity to enjoy unhurried, relaxed meals in true Greek fashion. Just the way its devotees like it!
W HO IS LOGGOS FOR? Loggos is an ideal choice for anyone whose idea of the perfect Greek holiday is one of simple pleasures. Couples of any age will love its atmosphere, while away the days swimming, sunbathing, boating or walking, and in the evenings, enjoy a romantic meal at a quayside table for two.
Families with young children will find all the old-fashioned ingredients necessary for a memorable holiday. Safe swimming, fishing from the quay, friendly locals and tavernas that positively welcome the little ones.
Older teenagers may be disappointed in the lack of night-life, but the informal atmosphere, boat trips and great swimming should make up for this.
THE B EACH The conveniently located Levrecchio beach, is just a short walk across the headland from Loggos village. It is one of only a handful of beaches on Paxos that has its own taverna. It is also one of the few that can be accessed by car, which can make it popular in high summer.
AFTER DARK In the evening, Loggos is enchanting. The taverna lights reflect silkily on the calm waters of the harbour. With very little motorised traffic to intrude on the scene, the sounds after dark tend to be the buzz of conversation spiced with laughter and occasional bursts of impromptu singing or guitar music.
Later still, when the tavernas have closed, the night becomes undisturbed save for the occasional ‘phew-phew’ hoot from a Scops owl or the Nightjar’s song.
W HAT TO SEE AND DO
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 11 of 42 Standing proud over the harbour front at Loggos is what remains of the old Anemogiannis soap factory. Although now derelict it is an oddly attractive, very photogenic building, with its entrance still graced by a Romanesque statue of Aphrodite. In years gone by the final residue of the oil-producing process was brought here from local olive presses to be turned into soap and bricks.
There are several lovely and easily accessible coastal and inland walks in the vicinity of Loggos. Amongst them, from the old soap factory a path leads up to Loggos Mill, one of the remaining windmills, from which there are spectacular views.
The tavernas of Loggos may be the focus of the village’s evening activities, but they also offer a great opportunity for daytime ‘people watching’. Great entertainment can be derived from watching the antics and activities of folks and boats, sometimes a combination fraught with dramatic possibilities, but the atmosphere of Loggos is so laid back that help is always at hand to avert disaster.
At least one boat trip is a 'must' - there are excursions to the fantastic west coast and to Parga, on the mainland opposite. Small boat hire is also readily available, a great way to explore the neighbouring beaches and coves.
PLACES N EARBY Paxos is a very small island and the distances between villages are such that walking from one to the other is not only for a experienced hiker.
Several charming old villages can be reached on foot, including Fontana, which is halfway between Loggos and Gaios.
In addition to the villages’s own Levrecchio beach there are a whole host of attractive coves and beaches nearby. They are all accessible by boat, and several can also be reached by car or on foot.
To the south, between Loggos and Gaios are Kipos, Marmari, Pounda, Kipiadi a popular spot for yachts to moor at, and Kaki Langada where a cantina is located in high season.
Northbound heading towards Lakka are Glyfada, Monodendri, Lakkos, Orkos and Arkoudaki.
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 12 of 42 LAKKA The little port of Lakka lies at the head of a narrow, curved inlet on the north coast of Paxos.
Tree-covered headlands almost enclose the bay, forming an attractive natural harbour. Here the iridescent azure waters and shelter from the prevailing winds make it a popular port of call for the many vessels that visit during the summer months. Home to fishing boats for hundreds of years, Lakka now also attracts every kind of craft from flotilla boats and weekend yachtsmen to awe- inspiring mega-yachts.
The village itself is tiny. Its narrow streets, which all appear to gravitate towards the harbour side, are awash with vividly coloured flowers that spill over garden walls. With numerous small shops, bars and restaurants offering a wonderful variety of food, Lakka, and its friendly locals, has a special character all of its own.
Beaches on Paxos tend to be pebbly, but around Lakka the pebbles give way to golden sand as soon as you step into the water. The beaches in the bay all enjoy natural shade and beautiful views, and for the more adventurous visitor a selection of water sports and activities are available.
W HO IS LAKKA FOR? There is something for everyone in Lakka. Whether you are seeking a great family holiday, a romantic getaway just for two, or fun filled days and nights, you can do as much or as little as you fancy during a stay in this enigmatic village.
It is an ideal location for anyone who enjoys an active holiday, with some wonderful walks in the area, great swimming and snorkelling opportunities and plenty of boating adventures to be enjoyed. Lakka also has a water sports centre offering a good selection of activities including scuba diving and windsurfing.
Should a relaxing holiday be more your style, or indeed if you are looking for a contrast between laid back and lively, there are several quiet villas just outside the village that would be an ideal base. Set amongst the peaceful olive groves, yet within an easy walk of the lively harbour front with its bustling restaurants and tavernas, they provide the mix that many people seek.
THE B EACH Trees pleasantly shade the two beaches around the edge of the bay. One, Harami, is sandy, whilst the other, Kanoni, is more pebbly. However, both have soft golden sand below the water.
West of Lakka, on the far side of the Plani headland, there are some beaches washed by the open sea. Plani Beach can be reached on foot and a scramble over the rocks will bring you to the beaches of Planos and Achai where the sea has eroded rocks into strange natural sculptures.
To the east, between Lakka and Loggos, there is a succession of lovely pebble beaches that can be reached by boat or on foot. Arkoudaki, Orkos, Lakos, Monodendri and Glyfada are all attractive and equally worth a visit.
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 13 of 42 AFTER DARK Evenings in Lakka are quite busy. There are a good selection of restaurants and tavernas. There are also several music bars that, during the high season, will often entertain their guests until the early hours.
W HAT IS THERE Life in Lakka inevitably revolves around the harbour and boats. Less obviously chic than Gaios, less intimate than Loggos, but with a 'salty' flavour of its own. There are still a few local fishing boats, but the life of the little village does seem to revolve around yachtsmen and their requirements. This gives Lakka an atmosphere of its own and plenty for the happily idle holidaymaker to watch while enjoying a meal or a drink. The restaurants and bars have benefited from the influence of the many Italian visitors and there are some useful shops and a couple of good tourist shops.
If you choose to turn your back for a while on the many beaches, there are fascinating walks in the surrounding hills where you will encounter ancient houses and churches, breathtaking views, quiet olive groves.
Lakka has a water sports centre, with facilities for windsurfing, water skiing, dinghy sailing and scuba diving.
PLACES N EARBY The Plani lighthouse is located on the western side of the bay, but unfortunately it is not open to the public.
On the eastern headland there are the ruins of one of the ancient windmills, and Dalietatika is a charming old village above the west coast.
In the olive groves behind Lakka is the imposing Venetian manor house, complete with fortified tower, belonging to the Grammatikos family of Paxos.
The Byzantine Church of the Ipapanti is very impressive, with two flattened cupolas and a large bell tower.
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 14 of 42 GAIOS Gaios is the largest of the three main settlements on Paxos and the only one that can be called a town, albeit a very small one. The 'capital' of the island of Paxos, it shows its Venetian and British heritage in the colourful buildings that line the long harbour-front. Life in Gaios focuses on the harbour, where in high season, awe- inspiring yachts jostle for space with working boats of all kinds. An intriguing variety of eating establishments, chic boutiques and old- fashioned stores make this a fascinating place to visit, with an atmosphere all of its own.
W HO IS GAIOS FOR? Gaios is just the place for anyone who enjoys a holiday with variety.
The little town is filled with alluring shops and boutiques, where jewellery and clothing can be picked up at very reasonable prices. Pottery is a good buy here too. The photo opportunities are endless. When it gets too hot for shopping, there are good beaches within walking distance.
The main square is bordered on one side by the harbour. With the daily arrivals and departures there is always something going on, always an excuse to take a seat at one of the open-air cafes and indulge in that most popular of pastimes – people-watching.
Gaios could not be described as a party capital, but it is not deserted once the sun goes down either. It enjoys a good choice of restaurants and tavernas, and if you are looking for something more lively there are just a couple of clubs on its outskirts.
THE B EACH Walking along the shore road south of the town of Gaios you will come across several pleasant spots to bathe - narrow strips of pebble beach but clean and attractive. These include Plakes, Defteri, Ballos and Sulanena. A little further to the south of the island is the sandy beach of Moggonisi, with a delightful taverna and various facilities. Moggonisi was a separate island, but is now joined to Paxos by a causeway, which is flanked by the beach.
AFTER DARK The main square of Gaios is home to some wonderful cafes and restaurants, with plentiful outdoor seating. Along the meandering quayside and in the narrow streets leading back from it, are numerous small and very pleasant tavernas and bars. You will soon find your own favourites. Most of the food on offer is Greek but there is also plenty of Italian influence on many menus.
On the very edge of Gaios there are two clubs. Sufficiently close at hand should you want to dance the night away, but they do not encroach on the more laid back atmosphere of the town itself.
W HAT TO SEE AND DO Gaios is the perfect place for bargain hunting. Its streets are home to many fascinating and diverse little shops that can capture the imagination of even the most reticent shoppers.
Located in a handsome neo-classical building on the waterfront, the Gaios Folk Museum offers a fascinating insight into the heritage of Paxos and her people. It is open from 11:00 to 13:00 and from 19:30 to 22:30.
A visit the Church of Agioi Apostoli, with many fine icons, is also a must for anyone interested in Paxiot history. It is not difficult to find, being located behind the bus stop.
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 15 of 42 PLACES NEARBY The abandoned village of Geramonachos is just off the main road about half a mile north of Gaios. It is very atmospheric (although several of the ancient houses are now being converted into holiday homes) and is a good picnic spot with lots of shade.
The ruins of the 15th century Fortress of St. Nicholas are on the islet of the same name that lies immediately opposite Gaios. A permit must be obtained from the municipality in order to visit.
The Monastery of the Panagia (Virgin Mary) on the islet of that name, also opposite Gaios.
G AIOS AMENITIES . Local shops including butcher, bakery and Grocery shop. . Several supermarkets and minimarkets. . Tavernas and bars . Bank and several ATM machines. . Two doctors. . A dentist. . English-speaking pharmacy. . Clinic in nearby village of Bogdanatika. . Chic boutiques and jewellery shops. . Internet cafe. . Bus service 4 times a day linking Gaios, Loggos and Lakka. . Boat hire. . Boat trips to Corfu, Parga (mainland), Anti-Paxos. . Tavernas, restaurants, cafes and bars. . Two nightclubs - Phoenix and Castello.
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 16 of 42 MAGAZIA Magazia is more a cluster of small hamlets than just one village. The word ‘magazi’ means shop and Magazia presumably once had enough shops to merit its name! Few in number compared to today’s shopping centres, but they are worth a visit for their sense of existing in a time warp. In fact, Magazia was once the ‘capital’ of the island, in the days when it was dangerous to live on the coast and the possibility of an attack by pirates was very real.
Situated on the road linking Gaios and Lakka, it is a good central starting point for exploring Paxos.
The villagers of Magazia are very friendly and live life at their own pace. Their closely-knit community is undisturbed by the influences of tourism. There are two mini-markets, two tavernas and one small bar, all of which retain a traditional island character. One of the nearby tavernas is especially popular in the evenings for its superb sunset views.
Magazia is also the location of one of the latest archaeological finds on the island, three graves dating from the 7th century AD. There are plans for these to be studied more closely in the near future in order to discover more about the local inhabitants of the time.
Take the road that starts with Magazia’s filling station, opposite the church of Agios Spyridonas. At the far end you will find the church of Agioi Apostoloi that stands proud, overlooking Erimitis Cliffs. Look too your left and you will see the Ortholithos or standing rock. If you visit this area in the evening you will be treated to a stunning view of the sunset.
Another wonderful spot for enjoying the sunset is in nearby area of Kastanida. If you pass Magazia’s primary school and take the route to the right you will find a small café, where you can sit and enjoy the spectacle.
This café is located next to the church of Ipapanti, which was built over a cave. The church, built in the early 17th century, is the only one in the Ionian islands to have a twin-cupola. It is also home to an icon that is said to work miracles and which, legend has it, was recovered from the waters of the cave below.
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 17 of 42 FONTANA The tiny village of Fontana, just inland from Loggos, makes a good place to stop at on a walk. There is little more to it than a church, shop, kafeneion and taverna, but it enjoys an atmosphere that has remained unchanged for aeons. There is an old olive press which just may be still working if you pass that way in the spring or early summer of an abundant crop year.
This is one of the small but nevertheless important neighbourhoods of Paxos. As in so many of the old Greek villages, the spreading branches of an aged Plane tree shelter its tiny square. It focal points are the community buildings, including an old school house (long closed, the local children now being educated in Gaios). Do go inside the 15th century church if it is open, as it has several fine frescos adorning its walls. The village shop is a real life ‘Arkwright’s Store’. A few cents spent there will be money well spent, if only to experience the quaint charm of the place!
In Fontana, the locals sit in the shade and play cards - watching the world go by in the company of the local cats. With its one taverna, the village seems to be caught in a delightful time warp. Well worth a visit to either just stop for a drink or preferably, a bite to eat in the evening.
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 18 of 42 BEACHES ON PAXOS
GENERAL The beaches of Paxos are mostly pebble or a mixture of pebbles and sand. In the bay of Lakka the pebble beaches are unusual in that they give way to sand under the water. On the more sheltered east coast there are about 30 beaches, varying in size, all best accessed by boat though a few can be reached by road and most of them on foot. Some of the beaches along the east coast are:
AROUND LAKKA: . Harami. . Kanoni, which is inside the bay. . Planos. . Achai, on the northern side of the Planos headland.
B ETWEEN LAKKA AND LOGGOS: . Arkoudaki. . Orkos. . Lakos. . Monodendri, a large beach with several facilities. . Glyfada.
B ETWEEN LOGGOS AND GAIOS: . Levrecchio, which has a beach taverna. . Kipos. . Marmari, enjoying natural shade from trees that grow right down to beach. . Kipiadi, very popular with yachtsmen. . Kaki Langada, with its beach cantina in high season.
S OUTH OF GAIOS: . Plakes. . Defteri. . Ballos. . Sulanena. . Moggonisi, which has a taverna. The west coast of Paxos is noted for its sheer, precipitous cliffs and dramatic scenery - there are very few beaches and they can on the whole only be reached by taking a boat with skipper.
MONGONISSI At the southern point of Paxos, is one of the best sandy beaches on Paxos. It has easy access by road from Gaios although it is actually a very small island, now linked to Paxos by a small causeway. It has wonderful, clear blue sea and is perfectly safe for bathing. Shower and toilet facilities are available along with wind surfing and paddle boats. There are two tavernas, where you will often find Greek dancing during the evenings!
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 19 of 42 KAKI LANGADA . This pretty and sheltered pebbly beach is located north of Gaios. There is a beach cantina on the beach during the high season.
LEVRECCHIO A fine shingle beach about five minutes walk south of Loggos, it is one of the busiest beaches in the high season. It has a very popular taverna with a wide selection of food on offer.
KIPOS AND MARMARI The beaches of Kipos and Marmari are near to Loggos. Beautiful small coves in a pretty bay with welcome shade from the olive trees that grow right down to the shoreline. Only accessible by walking or by boat.
POUNDA AND KIPIADI To the south of Loggos Pounda beach can be found at the end of a small track from the main road. This track also branches south to the long, pebble beach of Kipiadi. This is a favourite anchorage for yachts.
HARAMI AND KANONI Harama and Kanoni are two lovely beaches inside the bay of Lakka. Beautiful clear waters with a sandy bottom, gently shelving, so very popular with families. However, with so many boats anchored, the water is not always as clean as it is on the more exposed coastline outside.
MONODENDRI AND GLYFADA The most popular beach along the stretch of coast from Lakka south to Loggos is Monodendri, meaning ‘single tree’. It has several facilities including water sports.
Glyfada is further south and as this can only be reached along a steep footpath from the south, it is rarely visited.
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 20 of 42 INTERESTING PLACES ON PAXOS
W EST COAST CLIFFS The west coast of Paxos is exposed to the open sea and is pounded by heavy seas during the winter. As a result, the steep, soaring limestone cliffs have been eroded into some fantastic shapes. There are sea caves, gigantic free-standing monolithic rocks and amazing geological formations such as the Tripitos Arch, which forms part of the Mousmouli Cliffs. There are a number of cliff top paths with marvellous views, but few of them lead down to a beach. Rented boats cannot be taken to the west coast due to the unpredictable sea conditions and currents, and the best way to see the superb scenery is by excursion boat.
S EA CAVES The sea caves are magnificent. The 600ft tall cave of Kastanitha is the most impressive, though the largest is at Grammatiko. These are big enough for the excursion boats to enter.
The cave of Ortholithos is marked by an impressive stone monolith that reaches up, sheer-sided, from the sea in front of its entrance.
The cliffs above Erimitis Bay are particularly striking, with thousands of sea birds wheeling around them, and especially lovely at sunset. The nearby Sunset Bar is very good for an evening meal or drink with the backdrop of the rosy-hued cliffs. Follow the signs from the hamlet at Boikatika to get to it.
O LIVE PRESS MUSEUM You will find the Olive Press Museum on the main road between Gaios and Lakka, just outside the village of Magazia. This was built in 1865, sold and renovated in 1936 and was still working until 1960. It has recently been restored and you can now visit to see the olive press working and purchase local produce. Open daily from 1100 - 1400 hours.
K ALTSIONISI This is a tiny island covered in lush green vegetation that lies off the southernmost tip of Paxos, close to Moghgonisi. It is crowned by a small church, which dates back to 1686 and is dedicated to Saint Spiridon
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 21 of 42 CHURCHES ON PAXOS There are said to be around 63 Greek Orthodox churches on the island of Paxos although probably as few as 10 which are open regularly. There is no Anglican church on Paxos, though the English Chaplain from Corfu visits Paxos once or twice each year to give a service.
THE C HURCHES Most of the churches on Paxos date back to Venetian times, though the oldest churches on the island, Agia Marina and Agios Stefanos, now in ruins, date back to the 6th century AD. These two churches are in Ozias, itself the oldest settlement on the island.
One of the most unusual churches is that of Ipapanti (also spelt Ypapanti), just outside the village of Grammatikeika, near Lakka. Built over a cave, it has two flattened domes and a beautiful bell tower.
The church of Agli Apostoli in Boikatika, near Magazia, is strikingly sited, with wonderful views of the Erimitis Cliffs from its churchyard. In the same village, the church of Ag. Charalambos is noted for an ancient icon of the Virgin.
The church of Estavromenos in Fontana dates from the 15th century, but was partly restored in 1859.
In Loggos, the church of Zoodochos Pigi (the Source of Life) has beautiful wall frescoes dating from at least 1739.
In addition to the many churches, there are numerous chapels dotted around the island - simple, whitewashed buildings, only opened once a year on the name day of the saint to whom they are dedicated.
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 22 of 42 PAXOS HISTORY
HISTORY OF PAXOS Paxos may be very small, but its history is fascinating and diverse, linked with that of Corfu. Centuries of invasion and capture by succeeding naval powers has resulted in a history of particular complexity and interest.
N AME OF PAXOS It is traditionally believed that the Phoenicians were the first to settle on Paxos, and that the name may be derived from the Phoenician word 'paks' meaning 'slate'. Another version is that some inhabitants of Paxous in Sicily were expatriated and forced to move to Paxoi, naming the islands after their home town. The Metropolitan Archbishop of Paramythia, Athenagoras, says 'Paxos' refers to the flagstones that came from the islands' quarries and were exported.
The Thesaurus of the Greek Language by Errikos Stefanou, etymologises the name from the ancient Greek verb 'pignyo' in the future tense - 'pixo'. Alternatively it may have come from the expression paksosas thyras - meaning closed doors, given that the port of Gaios is of the closed type.
Paxos or Paxi? Apparently Paxos refers to the main island; Paxi refers to the entire group of small islands including Anti-Paxos.
ANCIENT PAXOS Legend says that Paxos was created when Poseidon struck Corfu with his trident, causing the southernmost tip to break off and float away to become a separate island. This small island then became his 'love nest', where he could hide from his jealous wife and conduct his affair with the nymph Amphytrite in peace and seclusion. Whether this is myth or legend, the trident of Poseidon remains the symbol of Paxos.
The islands of the Ionian have a long history of occupation by foreign powers, largely on account of their strategic position between what is now Italy and the Balkans, and because of the countless excellent harbours.
The history of Paxos has always been closely linked with that of Corfu. From the third to the fifth century BC Athens and the Peloponnese were engaged in a long drawn out dispute, culminating in the Peloponnesian War that lasted for most of the fifth century BC.
The Ionian Islands were drawn into the war, allying with Athens.
The defences of the islands were greatly weakened by these wars and by a number of Spartan attacks, leaving them highly vulnerable. In 230BC the Romans were invited to take control of Corfu, and eventually Paxos. Eventually the whole of the Ionian islands came under the rule of the Romans.
R OMAN PAXOS The period of Roman rule was a time of relevant peace, broken only by some squabbles amongst the Romans themselves in which some of the islanders participated.
Irretrievably weakened after the death of the Emperor Constantine, the Roman Empire became divided, and its rule eventually came to an end with the Gothic invasion!
The Goths were to rule over Corfu, Paxos and most of the Ionian for almost 600 years - a time when the region suffered enormously from the attacks of pirates who proliferated in Ionian waters. When they attacked, they did not only loot material goods, they also took prisoners and sold their hostages as slaves.
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 23 of 42 N ORMAN AND VENETIAN PAXOS In the latter half of the 11th century the Ionian islands were invaded by the Normans. Enraged by this Norman expansion in the region, the Emperor of the Byzantine Empire sent a fleet, allied with the Venetians, to deal with them and reclaim the islands.
First attempts to displace the Normans from Corfu were unsuccessful, but they finally left the island in 1147.
When the Byzantine Empire fell to the Crusaders in 1204, the Venetians made their claim on Corfu and Paxos.
From culture and architecture to agriculture and education, the Venetian influences were profound, and still remain so to this day. It was the Venetians who brought the tomato to the island and who instigated a huge programme of olive planting. Walking around Paxos today it is impossible to miss the signs of that long period of Venetian government. There still remain many houses, churches and olive presses that date back to these times.
O TTOMAN AND FRENCH PAXOS The next of the great powers to turn their attention to the Ionian Islands was the Ottoman Empire. There was no denying the importance of the area as an important shipping route and a base from which to make attacks on Italy and Europe in general.
Under cover of a peace treaty with Venice, the Ottoman Turks laid their plans for invasion, and in 1537 the Turkish fleet landed at Igoumenitsa on the Greek mainland.
The pirate Admiral Barbarossa commenced a determined but ultimately unsuccessful siege of Corfu and Paxos.
Now it was the turn of Napoleon Bonaparte. By the latter part of the eighteenth century, having defeated the Venetians in numerous battles, he set his sights on the Ionian Islands, capturing the islands of Corfu and Paxos in 1789.
The Paxiots were, by this time, all too happy to bid farewell to the Venetians. But the French occupation of the area lasted only a year before a Russo-Turkish fleet took control of the islands. This left the Russians in control and declared the islands of Corfu and Paxos part of the Eftanisos State - the State of the Seven Islands.
In the meantime, the French were determined to take back control of the Ionian Islands, which they succeeded in doing in 1803.
However, as they were also at war with Britain at the time the British were drawn to the area as well. By 1811 they had taken control of the Ionian islands of Zakynthos, Kefalonia, Ithaca and Lefkas. Corfu proved a more difficult proposition as it had extremely good fortifications. Although the British did blockade Corfu and neighbouring Paxos for several years, they never actually attacked.
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 24 of 42 INDEPENDENCE AND MODERN PAXOS Napoleon abdicated in 1812. Britain, Russia, Prussia and Austria, the great powers of the day, met, and responsibility for the administration of the Ionian Islands was passed to Britain.
The islands underwent a rapid period of change with the British who instigated programmes of building, road building and improvements in drainage and water supply.
A succession of British Lord High Commissioners governed the islands until 1864, when the Ionian Islands were officially united with the new Kingdom of Greece. And so things remained for over 80 years.
Corfu and Paxos officially declared a position of neutrality in the First World War. But Greece was drawn into WW2 after the Italians invaded. In April 1941 both Corfu and Paxos found themselves occupied by Italian forces. By 1943 they had been expelled and Germany had taken control of the islands. In late 1944 liberation came with the arrival of the Allied forces.
Soon after the World War ended Greece was again in the midst of conflict, in a bloody civil war that continued until 1949. In Paxos, as in the rest of Greece, recovery from the hardship and catastrophe of these wars was a long process. Many islanders found it necessary to seek employment abroad, in the UK and Germany in particular, in order to support their families.
Mass tourism 'discovered' Corfu and Paxos in the nineteen-seventies, though a small number of discerning Brits had long been in love with the islands by that time. Since the nineteen-eighties, tourism has taken over from olive oil production as the mainstay of the island's economy.
ARCHAEOLOGICAL FIND Archaeological finds last summer, near Magazia, were found to be dated as far back as 600BC to 600AD.
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 25 of 42 GETTING AROUND IN PAXOS
B US SERVICE A trip on the local bus is an experience not to be missed. There is only one bus and this provides a regular service, 4 times a day, linking Gaios, Loggos and Lakka. It travels very slowly and can usually be 'flagged down' at any point during its journey.
TAXIS There are five local taxi drivers on Paxos and they all speak English. The Paxiots are very honest people, but our advice is to check the fare before travelling just to avoid any confusion.
C AR HIRE Agni Travel offers excellent value-for-money car hire on Paxos and can arrange either delivery to your accommodation or you can contact our office in Gaios for more details.
B OATS You may wish to hire your own little motor boat to explore the coastal villages of Paxos. Alternatively, arrange to go on one of the daily excursions.
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 26 of 42 WALKING IN PAXOS Small as it is, Paxos is by no means flat and its terrain holds a surprising variety of scenery, from ancient olive groves to pine-covered outcrops and breathtaking cliffs. The villages are linked by shady tracks many of which end at a quiet beach with a lovely view. Little houses, old churches and olive- presses will always be a feature of your route. Paxos is just 10 km long and 4 km wide, making the island easily walkable. The coastline offers some fine walks, or climb up the steep slopes of the west coast to watch the waves crash against the sheer cliffs, hundreds of feet below.
GENERAL INFORMATION ON WALKING IN PAXOS In order to get the best out of walking on Paxos you need a local map and one of the excellent walking guides (Bleasdale's or Sunflower).
Walking, however, is not just a matter of putting one foot in front of the other, it’s an introduction to the history, flowers, wildlife and local customs of the island and some preparation in the form of reading matter is a good idea.
The best time to go for walking is obviously spring and autumn, when it is quieter, cooler and the wild flowers are at their best. In the height of summer, if you are prepared to get up really early, it is still possible to get in some exploring on foot before the sun is too hot. The distances are not great and you will never be far from a small hamlet where you can rest and get a drink, but it is nevertheless a good idea to carry a small bottle of water with you. Wear a hat, plenty of sun cream and sensible shoes - paths can be stony and thistles can be spiny! And carry a stick, useful in many ways.
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 27 of 42 NATURE ON PAXOS
ANIMALS Slim, lithe cats are a traditional resident throughout Greece. Souvenir shops sell some wonderful photos of these photogenic felines as calendars and postcards.
On Paxos you will sometimes see a donkey laden with olives, firewood, or shopping! They are not worked so much as in years gone by, but still to a certain extent. It is said that when a Greek lady is widowed and wears black, she celebrates. At last the donkey that her husband insisted live indoors with them can be kept outside. A Paxos legend perhaps?
Tortoises are a pleasant surprise to be found living wild, as are the geckos and other small lizards. But be a little careful as snakes are also rather more abundant here than in the UK.
Be cautious too if driving on winding roads. It’s quite possible to come face to face with goats or sheep in the most unexpected of places.
The Mediterranean Monk or Monachus-Monachus seals are one of the most endangered marine mammals worldwide, with only around 600 surviving. These and another endangered species, the Loggerhead Sea turtle (also known as the Caretta-Caretta turtle), can be spotted occasionally in the coastal waters off the west of Paxos.
B IRDS Buzzards are often seen on Paxos as are other birds of prey. Sparrow Hawks are regulars to the olive groves and Kestrels have been sighted.
Smaller birds include the Blackcap Warbler and many members of the Tit family. The Common Grey Heron is often seen around Loggos Bay. Whilst the white ducks seen in Gaios and Lakka and the geese in Lakka are firm favourites with locals and holidaymakers, Loggos is something of a haven for small birds. Dunlins and pied grey and yellow Wagtails can often be seen on the sea front. Hoopoes, Swallows and Swifts, Stone Chats, Black Redstarts, Pied Flycatchers and even the tiny Wren are also amongst its visitors.
Pigeons and Turtle-Doves are widespread during the autumn months, whilst the most common winter bird is the Robin and summer nights would be incomplete without the mournful single note call of the Scops Owl. The cheeky little Spanish / Italian House Sparrows are found in their hundreds as well as the Chaffinch and the Goldfinch. A little less common is the Greenfinch.
F IREFLIES AND B UTTERFLIES In the evenings of late April and May fireflies light up the olive groves like a thousand dancing fairies. Whilst during daylight, colourful butterflies and majestic moths are a truly wonderful and colourful addition to the pictures of Paxos.
PLANTS AND F LOWERS The Olive groves that cover Paxos were planted hundreds of years ago by the Venetians, and in spring are home to enchanting displays of wild iris, cyclamen and orchids.
On higher land, a scrubby type of vegetation dominates, interspersed with pine trees and Spanish Broom; whilst the coastal cliffs have their own types of plant including sea-lavender and Sapphire.
The wild flowers of spring are incredible in their variety, but in spite of the heat summer is a riot of floral colour too. The local people are passionate about plants. Vivid crimson and purple bougainvillea, blue hued passion flowers, oleander, jasmine, geraniums, datura and hibiscus. All these and more are cultivated on balconies, verandas and in walled gardens throughout the island.
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 28 of 42 OLIVE TREES AND OLIVE OIL Olive trees were introduced to Paxos by the Venetians and the local olive oil is plentiful and of extremely high standard.
Many of the Paxiot shops display a variety of products made from local olive oil, from soap and beauty treatments to culinary oils.
H ISTORY OF THE O LIVE TREE There are an estimated 300,000 olives trees on Paxos. Introduced by the Venetians in the sixteenth century, it is said that the Paxiots were offered the equivalent of five drachmas for every olive tree they planted.
The Olive groves of Paxos produce some of the best olive oil in Greece. Olive trees can live for over a thousand years, grow up to fifty feet in height, and if well-tended can produce up to twenty kilos of oil a year.
During the annual harvest, wherever you go on the island you will see black netting laying around each tree. This is used to catch the olives on, ready for the ancient stone presses that are still used to crush them.
The fruit of the olive tree has been used since ancient times for making olive oil and for eating. As with wine, the soil and climate of the area where an olive is grown has a marked effect on its flavour. Each type of olive has its own unique flavour and texture.
O LIVES , OLIVES AND MORE OLIVES The Greeks consume more olives than any other people in Europe and their growing and harvesting of olives is most important to them. It is still a major source of income for many.
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 29 of 42 PAXOS MUSIC FESTIVALS The Paxos Music Festival is now a well-established and very popular event. It takes place in Loggos every year with concerts of classical chamber music almost every day. Run by the Paxos Festival Trust and the Guildhall School of Music and Drama, performers are students of the School.
There are two other notable musical events in the Paxos calendar. A Spring Music Festival, staged in Loggos by the International Ensemble Modern Academy and Paxos Festival Trust, showcases contemporary music performed by promising Greek students. A Jazz Festival also takes place every year in June.
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 30 of 42 FOOD AND WINE
TYPES OF EATING PLACE Before eating out in Paxos, let us help you to become familiar with a few of the local customs, the dishes available and how to make the most of the Paxiot cuisine.
Taverna: The most common and traditional Greek eating place, usually family-run and open all day, some are to be found in Loggos.
Psaro Taverna: A taverna offering fresh fish and sometimes some meat dishes. Usually the taverna will have their own dedicated fisherman, sometimes this is the owner. The menu will always reflect what has been freshly caught. Lakka has a selection of these tavernas offering fresh fish.
Psistaria: These charcoal, grill-room tavernas are mostly found in the local villages and are often one of the most overlooked tourist experiences. The service can be patchy, the presentation basic, but the taste and quality superb. They offer just a few starters and salads and many types of barbecued meats. Look out for 'Kokoretsi' - goat innards wrapped in intestine and gently grilled over charcoal. A truly delicious Greek delicacy, but not for the squeamish!
Snack Bars: Quick, easy and usually good value for money. Not really over popular on the island of Paxos, however a couple can be found in Lakka and Gaios.
Souvlatzidika: Great fun. A sort of takeout Psistaria offering small souvlakis (kebabs) often made into 'gyros' by wrapping them in toasted pita bread with salad and tzatiki.
Zacharoplasteion: A cake and coffee shop, often combined with a bakery. These wonderful cake shops can be found in most of the resorts on Paxos.
Ouzeri: A bar that offers a selection of 'mezes' to go with your drink. This can range from a few olives and a little feta cheese, to a large platter of mixed starters.
Kafeneion: A meeting place, mostly for the local male population who manage to spend a great deal of the day talking about politics and football! These are dotted around the island of Paxos, in the resorts and inland villages. A must to the Greek way of life.
If you tire of sitting by the pool, soaking up the sun, enjoying a good book why not visit some of Paxos’s traditional villages? Located in the foothills and high up in the mountains, they are an entirely different experience to many of the coastal resorts.
F OOD FOR THOUGHT With clean Ionian waters, Paxos offers a wonderful selection of the freshest seafood. You will be spoiled for choice. Depending on the time of year, you will be able to choose from Whitebait and Red Mullet, fresh prawns and octopus, Red Snapper and Sea Bream. Remember that fish is sold by the kilo and although a little expensive it is very well worth the treat. Loggos and Lakka have several excellent fish tavernas.
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 31 of 42 A TASTY DISH A meze is not a meal course (although meze dishes can be served as appetizers), but rather a dish, hot or cold, spicy or savoury, often salty, that is served alone or with other mezethes, as a separate eating experience.
Often a meze is served with a drink (especially Ouzo) to provide the accompaniment to a social gathering and people watching! Why not head to a waterfront taverna at Loggos and order a small meze, you’ll soon find yourself slipping into the Greek way of life!
WINE Greek wine in recent years has really improved. Many Greek wine producers are in transition to a more modern style and producing some very gluggable numbers. Here are a few things to look out for on a taverna wine list.
G REEK WINE CLASSIFICATION VdT-Vin de Table VdP - Vin de Payes AO - Appellation of Origin
G REEK WHITE WINES Modern Greek whites are fresh, fruity and very new world in style. Try some of the new 'zingy', dry Sauvignons.Rhodes tends to produce large quantities of good quality table wine, with a dry new world character, mostly due to its Southern Mediterranean climate.
G REEK RED W INES Many of the Greek reds are superb. Enjoy light Nemeas (even better chilled) or a bodied and chewy Merlots from Costas Lazarithis.
LOCAL DRINKS
R ETSINA Retsina is 'normal' wine that is often undrinkable or poor. It is transferred to barrels made from Cyprus wood - and left to mature. The resin seeps into the wine giving it its particular flavour. Great at lunchtime, it takes some getting used to but it is drinkable! Some locals add Sprite to their Retsina although they century iconostasis (screen decorated with icons) inlaid with silver.
METAXA BRANDY
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 32 of 42 The end to any meal in a Greek taverna would not be complete without a Greek Brandy. Occasionally, it is disappointing to hear a request along the following lines: "It's time for an after dinner digestive. Do you have any proper brandies - not a Greek one?" Let us explain why Metaxa can be so highly rated.
Metaxa is distinguished as the most famous Greek spirit worldwide. It is misled as an actual brandy but in actual fact is something more. Thus, when we are talking about Metaxa we refer to this unique spirit and not to a brandy product. It was invented by a silk trader named Spiros Metaxas in 1888. He was from the Attica region, a province of Athens. The grapes Savatiano, Sultanina and Black Corinth are locally grown and form the basis of this spirit which is twice distilled and blended with aged Muscat wine from Samos, then blended with a secret botanical mix and aged in hand made oak casks. When served in a large brandy glass and warmed by the palm of your hand, the perfumed aroma is a truly intoxicating experience.
H OW MANY S TARS? Metaxa is generally available in the following versions: Three Star, Five Star, Seven Star and Twelve Star. Each star represents a year that it has been aged in oak barrels for. Hence the Metaxa 5 star is at least 5 years old. Occasionally, you will find a Metaxa 'Private Reserve' which is at least 20 years old. Quality and production process between the different Metaxa stars, as in every family, age is the only uncommon characteristic. It is worth pointing out that other Metaxa products considered as 'collector items' are occasionally available, such as the 'Metaxa Grand Olympian Reserve', and 'Metaxa Golden Age'.
L OCAL WINE Each Taverna usually has its own wine served by the kilo (equal to a litre). The taste and standard varies tremendously. Most often than not, it will be served in a metal carafe or jug - just enjoy!
B EER For beer, think lager! Mythos, Amstel and Heineken are the locally made favourites.
O UZO Ouzo is a social drink that should not be drunk on its own but with friends, and preferably with a Meze. An Ouzo Meze usually consists of a small plate with a few olives, feta cheese, and local sausage, and if you are lucky some grilled Octopus. Picking at these nibbles helps keep the effects of the alcohol from overwhelming you and enables you to sit, drink and talk for hours in a profoundly calm state of mind where all is beautiful and life is fine. This not just a drink, but a part of Greek life!
If you do not like the taste of liquorice, then ouzo is not for you. Fennel extract is the main added ingredient. Ouzo is drunk with ice and water. When you add water, the ouzo turns a milky white. How much to pour in is a matter of taste, so when Ouzo is served, the water is always served separately, leaving the drinker to mix the ratio to their taste.
Occasionally, you will meet a taverna or kafenion owner who makes their own ouzo. Watch out! Although they call it ouzo, it is really 'raki' or 'tsipuro' and does not have that liquorice flavour one associates with ouzo. It is made in homemade stills and goes down smoothly, but its effects are rapid and powerful. One glass won't hurt, but two might kill you! Strangely, it is a drink that does not seem to travel and your desire for ouzo may soon stop the moment you step on the plane home!
G REEK COFFEE AND F RAPPE If you normally drink an espresso after a meal, then you must try Greek coffee. It is quite strong and served in a small cup. Remember, when you order it you need to indicate how much sugar should be used when making it: Sketo - none; Metrio - one sugar; Glyko - two sugars. Also, do not make the
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 33 of 42 'tourist' mistake of drinking the sludge at the bottom! Finally, ordering one Sketos, one Metrio and one Glyko at the same time for your table will really upset your waiter as each needs to be made separately!
Frappe Ice, cold frothy coffee - just try one on a warm summer morning. The best hangover cure yet!
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 34 of 42 ANTI PAXOS
G ET AWAY FROM IT ALL ' ISLAND Anti-Paxos, separated from Paxos by a mile-wide channel, is just over two square miles in size with a population of less than one hundred. It is a wonderful 'get away from it all' place to be. It is renowned for some of the best beaches in Greece with indigo depths and aquamarine shallows. The locals of Anti- Paxos have their own walled gardens and vineyards and produce a local wine that is well guarded and rarely available for sale.
The beaches of Anti-Paxos are justifiably famous for the incredible colour of the sea and the fine pale sand. There are two main beaches, each with a taverna, Vrika and Voutimi, though others can be reached on foot. Sea taxis ply back and forth to Anti-Paxos throughout the day.
VRIKA AND VOUTOUMI Vrika and Voutoumi are both at the northern end of Anti Paxos, enjoying the breathtakingly turquoise waters so typical of this small island. Vrika has a sandy beach whilst Voutoumi is pebbly, although both are sandy below the water. Both are ideal for swimming and snorkelling. There is a taverna on each of these two beaches offering a good selection of local dishes. These beaches are also very popular with the Italians in August and can therefore become a little crowded.
EXCURSION BOATS The Excursion boats from Gaios take 15 - 20 mins and give you a wonderful opportunity of seeing the fantastically clear azure sea and dramatic rock formations before landing you on the island. On a calm day the captain may navigate the boat through the narrow straits between the isles of Mongonisi and Kalkionisi, with its tiny fisherman's church. Anti Paxos, hidden beneath a swathe of wild flowers, grape vines, and orchards, can seem a world away from the olive groves of its larger neighbour, Paxos. It is also interesting to explore the paths to the south to discover the quiet coves.
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 35 of 42 ISLAND HOPPING
TWIN CENTRE G REEK ISLAND H OLIDAYS Finding it difficult to choose between two enticing locations? Indulge yourself and stay on two different Greek islands: Paxos and Corfu.
Sleepy Paxos, with its three coastal villages of Loggos, Lakka and Gaios is a quiet contrast to cosmopolitan Corfu. Agni Travel only offers unspoilt locations on Corfu that are equal in calibre to Paxos. Kaminaki, located on the North-East coast is one of our favourites.
With the hydrofoil service between Corfu and Paxos, and the organisational support of Agni Travel, with our offices in both Corfu and Paxos, it is now so easy to enjoy a twin island Greek holiday.
W HY CHOOSE A TWIN C ENTRE HOLIDAY? Agni travel can help you choose compatible locations. For example, Loggos on Paxos and Agios Stephanos (NE) on Corfu.
L ONGER L ASTING H OLIDAY Our clients who have enjoyed a twin centre holiday often comment that their holiday has seemed to last longer!
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 36 of 42 MUNA BREVE PANORAMICA SU PAXOS Paxos è la più piccola delle isole dello Ionio. Misura infatti 10 km di lunghezza, 4 di larghezza e si trova a 11 km di distanza dall'estremità sud di Corfu’.
I visitatori tornano anno dopo anno in questo paradiso, attratti dalla bellezza della natura incontaminata e dall'aria amichevole degli abitanti del posto.
Paxos è interamente coperta di ulivi, interrotti solamente da piccole vigne, muretti a secco e sentieri che conducono ad abitazioni deserte o ad antichi oleifici.
Gli ulivi secolari nascondono ai loro piedi una flora spontanea unica nel suo genere.
Questo paesaggio, tranquillo e non ancora contaminato dal turismo di massa, rende Paxos unica nel suo genere ed in grado di regalare vacanze indimenticabili. GAIOS Gaios è il più grande dei tre centri abitati di Paxos ed è l'unico che può essere definito una cittadina, anche se di ridottissime dimensioni. La “capitale” dell'isola di Paxos mostra tutti gli elementi tipici della dominazione Veneziana e Inglese attraverso i suoi edifici colorati, allineati lungo il porticciolo.
Il porticciolo è appunto il centro della vita dell'isola. Durante i mesi estivi si riempie di yachts e di imbarcazioni di ogni genere.
Un'interessante varietà di ristoranti, taverne, boutiques, negozi tradizionali rende questo luogo, dotato di un'atmosfera unica, ancora più piacevole da visitare. LOGGOS Loggos è uno dei più piccoli, incontaminati e pittoreschi villaggi di Paxos. Il porticciolo è incantevole e regala dei colori in grado di ammaliare qualsiasi artista o fotografo. L'atmosfera è romantica e frizzante. Per chi desiderasse cucinare nella propria abitazione, sono disponibili tre super market, una panetteria con pane freschissimo sfornato ogni mattina e diversi fruttivendoli. Ma a dire il vero, chi potrebbe resistere al richiamo delle rinomate taverne di Loggos, poste direttamente sul pelo dell'acqua? Ottimi menu a base di pasce fanno da padroni, accompagnati da un'aria allegra e cosmopolita.
Una visita alla vecchia fabbrica di sapone Anemoyanis, recentemente venduta e in procinto di essere rinnovata, è un must. LAKKA Il piccolo porto di Lakka si trova al centro di una bella baia nella costa nord di Paxos delimitata da tre promontori, fornendo un riparo naturale a centinaia di yacht ogni estate. Il villaggio è piccolissimo, con stradine strette che sembrano tutte terminare nell'acqua. Piante e alberi spuntano oltre i muri dei giardini. I tanti negozietti, bar, taverne tipiche, abitanti allegri, regalano una permanenza piacevole e donano a Lakka un'atmosfera speciale. Attorno alla baia si possono trovare alcune spiaggette deliziose, ombreggiate dalla folta vegetazione circostante. Si può scegliere di rilassarsi su una sdraio, oppure di praticare uno dei tanti sport acquatici proposti, oppure partire per una escursione attraverso uno dei tanti sentieri che conducono all'imboccatura della baia attraverso gli uliveti.
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 37 of 42 INFORMAZIONI UTILI ARIA CONDIZIONATA Nel caso in cui la vostra sistemazione sia dotata di aria condizionata, Agni Travel non applica alcun sovrapprezzo per il suo utilizzo. In ogni caso, dati gli alti costi dell'energia elettrica e per proteggere l'ambiente, si raccomanda ai clienti di tener chiuse porte e finestre mentre i dispositivi sono in funzione. L'aria condizionata va utilizzata esclusivamente quando qualcuno è presente all'interno della proprietà, e va spenta quando nessuno occupa la sistemazione (al momento del ritorno saranno sufficienti pochi istanti per rinfrescare l'ambiente).
CANDELE E FIAMMIFERI In caso di emergenza, vengono forniti fiammiferi e candele che possono essere trovati all'interno di uno dei cassetti della cucina. Augurandoci che ciò non accada, a volte potrebbero verificarsi delle interruzioni nell'erogazione di energia elettrica, specialmente durante i temporali. Nel caso in cui le candele vengano utilizzate per scopi differenti rispetto a quelli sopra riportati, sostituirle con altre analoghe a beneficio dei futuri ospiti sarebbe cosa gradita.
FUOCO E SICUREZZA Si pregano gli ospiti di prendere nota di dove siano posizionati estintori ed uscite di sicurezza. Particolare attenzione va prestata nel caso in cui si utilizzino barbeque in zone ricche di vegetazione. Assicurarsi sempre che il carbone sia completamente spento una volta terminata la vostra grigliata. Dato un elevatissimo rischio di incendi in determinate zone, alcuni proprietari proibiscono l'uso di barbeque nelle loro ville. Vi consigliamo perciò di contattarci per ottenere maggiori delucidazioni a riguardo.
ARREDI Si prega di non spostare all'esterno il mobilio e gli accessori destinati all'uso all'interno dell'abitazione (cuscini, sedie, ecc). Potrebbero infatti rovinarsi al sole o in caso di pioggia. Nel caso in cui i complementi d'arredo all'esterno della proprietà non siano adeguati, vi preghiamo di contattarci tempestivamente.
SICUREZZA La Grecia è un paese molto sicuro. In ogni caso raccomandiamo di chiudere porte e finestre quando si lascia l'abitazione. Inoltre si ricorda di spegnere sempre luci e impianto di condizionamento.
SIESTA In Grecia la siesta è sacra... Tra le 15.00 e le 17.00 i negozi chiudono e la gente va a riposare. Nel caso in cui la vostra sistemazione avesse dei vicini greci, vi chiediamo cortesemente di considerare questa indicazione.
OMBRELLONI Assicurarsi sempre che gli ombrelloni siano chiusi di notte o quando nessuno occupa la proprietà. Il vento in Grecia può arrivare all'improvviso, danneggiando lo stesso ombrellone ma anche la zona circostante. Nel caso in cui tali indicazioni non vengano rispettate, Agni Travel potrà richiedere un rimborso per gli eventuali danni causati.
TOILETTE Si prega di considerare che in Grecia i sistemi di scarico sono meno efficienti rispetto all'Italia. Il tempo necessario a riparare un'ostruzione potrebbe essere piuttosto lungo, soprattutto durante l'alta stagione.
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 38 of 42 ACQUA E TUBATURE L'acqua del rubinetto è potabile. In ogni caso, data una differente composizione minerale, consigliamo di utilizzare acqua in bottiglia sia per dissetarsi che per fare il ghiaccio.
Si prega di non sprecare l'acqua. C'è una remota possibilità che durante i mesi estivi l'erogazione di acqua corrente venga interrotta a causa dell'esaurimento delle scorte. Nel caso in cui ciò dovesse accadere, vi preghiamo di avvisare immediatamente Agni Travel in modo da poter trovare una soluzione di emergenza.
L'interruttore generale del boiler per l'acqua calda si trova nel quadro elettrico principale. Assicurarsi sempre che l'interruttore sia acceso quando si necessita di acqua calda. Suggeriamo altresì di abbassare l'interruttore in caso di utilizzo della doccia.
In caso di emergenza dopo le ore 17.00 contattare il Sig. Kankas al numero (0030) 6977 867313
Ricordiamo che, in mancanza di accordi particolari, il termine ultimo per lasciare la proprietà è fissato per le ore 11.00 del giorno di partenza.
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 39 of 42 IT’S ALL GREEK TO ME!’ Although English is widely spoken here in Paxos, you may like to impress the locals by trying to speak their language. It’s fun and certainly appreciated. Here are a few words and phrases that you may find useful during your stay.
THE ALPHABET Greek Letter Sounds like As in
Αα a Alpha art
Ββ b Vita vine
Γγ g Gamma game
Δδ th Delta this
Εε e Epsilon bet
Ζζ z Zita zoo
Ηη ee Eeta eat
Θθ th Theeta thick
Ιι i Iota fit
Κκ k Kappa key
Λλ l Lamda lot
Μμ m Mi me
Νν n Ni neat
Ξξ x Ksi taxi
Οο o Omikron olive
Ππ p Pi peat
Ρρ r Ro road
Σσ s Sigma signal
Ττ t Taf tea
Υυ ee Ipsilon eel
Φφ f Fi fairy
Χχ ch Chi loch (Scottish)
Ψψ ps Psi maps
Ωω aw Omega port
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 40 of 42 SOME USEFUL WORDS AND PHRASES:
N UMBERS
One, two, three …
Zero Midhen Μηδεν
1 Ena Ενα
2 Dhio Δυο
3 Tria Τρια
4 Tessera Τεσσερα
5 Pende Πεντε
6 Exi Εξι
7 Efta Εφτα
8 Ochto Οχτψ
9 Enya Εννια
10 Dheka Δεκα
11 Endheka Ενδεκα
12 Dhodheka Δωδεκα
13 Dhekatria Δεκατρια
14 Dhekatesera Δεκατεσσερα
15 Dhekapende Δεκαπεντε
16 Dhekaexi Δεκαεξι
17 Dhekaefta Δεκαεφτα
18 Dhekaochto Δεκαοχτο
19 Dhekaenya Δεκαεννια
20 Ikosi Εικοσι
21 Ikosi ena Εικοσι ενα
30 Trianda Τριαντα
31 Trianda ena Τριαντα ενα
40 Saranda Σαραντα
50 Peninda Πενηντα
60 Exinda Εξηντα
70 Evdhominda Εβδομηντα
80 Oghdhonda Ογδοντα
90 Eneninda Εννενηντα
100 Εkato Εκατο
200 Dhiakosia Διακοσια
300 Triakosia Τριακοσια
400 Tetrakosia Τετρακοσια
500 Pendakosia Πεντακοσια
Agni Travel – Tailormade Greek Island Holidays Page 41 of 42 1000 Hilya Χιλια
What time is it?
What time is it? Ti ora ine? Τι ωρα ειναι;
It’s nine o’clock Ine enya Εινα εννια
- five past ten Ine dheka ke pende Ειναι δεκα και μεντε
- a quarter past 11 Ine endeka ke tetarto Ειναι εντεκα και τεταρτο
- twenty past 12 Ine dhodheka ke ikosi Ειναι δωδεκα και εικοσι
- half past 1 Ine myamisi Ειναι μιαμιση
- a quarter to 4 Ine tris para ikosi pende Ειναι τριες και ικοσι πεντε
- midnight Ine mesanichta Ειναι μεσανυχτα
Half an hour Misi ora Μιση ωρα
What time? Ti ora? Τι ωρα;
In the morning To proi Το πρωι
In the afternoon To mesimeri Το μεσημερι
In the evening To vradhi Το βραδυ
At night Ti nichta Τη νυχτα
This morning Simera to proi Σημερα το πρωι
This afternoon Simera to mesimeria Σημερα το μεσημερι
This evening Simera to apoyevma Σημερα το απογευμα
Tonight Apopse Αποψε
Last night Timberasmeni nichta Τη περασμενη νυχτα
This week Avti tin evdhomadha Αυτη την εβδομαδα
Next month Ton epomeno mina Τον επομενο μηνα
Last year Perisi Περυσι
Next Ton epomeno Τον επομενο
Remember that in Greek you say what you see, there are no silent letters, and it’s just a question of getting the accent on the right part of the word…!
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