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1503 CHRISTIAN TAGLIAVINI Artemesia PHOTOGRAPHY NOW PHOTOGRAPHY 05

[f22] www.f22magazine.com 1 T THE END OF LAST season, Paris hosted dump for obsolete technology on the out- cal surrealist landscapes by Scarlett Hooft informed risk, so that the range of contem- two contrasting photo events: the annual skirts of a Ghana slum. Added to the mix is Graafland, also at Hoppen, I visited some porary photography on offer is brilliant, Paris Photo, and the galleries of Saint- what the sponsors want to show off: the JP aerial landscapes by Edward Burtynsky at diverse, thriving. For the galleries present Germain-des-Prés. The former is an interna- Morgan Chase Collection, for example; and Flowers. In contrast to the pastoral patch- it's a time to show off discreetly and prove tional proclamation of today’s (and tomor- the major and institutional acquisitions: work quilts of yesteryear's countryside, themselves worthy. Every artist wants to row's) top dog names, the latter a celebra- such as the Tate buying in of Daido these present an abstract etching of land be represented and included therein. And tion of the mythical quartier, with its Moriyama for an exhibition next year; and rendered by industrial exploitation, with the visitor gets a snapshot of the organis- 1950’s heritage of art, jazz, cabaret – and the Musée de l'Elysée's purchase of the spectacular effect. I landed in Baudoin ing mix that makes up the contemporary women of experienced virtue. Paris Photo Charlie Chaplin archives. Lebon and discussed Madagascan race art+photography world, in which the is based on a business model of free mar- X and identity issues with the artist Malala French particularly excel, as well as the ket pushiness, where high expectations X Andrialavidrazana. Her starkly intimate inte- opportunity to garner the most valuable entertain big bucks chasing the best of Finally, and overwhelmingly, there is what rior shots reprimand the tourist's idealised opinions around. unique names. The first Festival Photo the market wants to show: the expensive view of her native country. Then some por- X Saint Germain-des-Prés is a much cosier classics supported by established galleries traits to end: Barbara Probst's Exposure X affair of family-run, entrepreneurial gal- in Paris, London, New York; emerging pho- #49 presents a disconnected, standard- Festival Photo Saint Germain-des-Prés is a leries. Where each customer is wooed as a tographers from Scandinavia, China, and ised view of an organised, asexual, self- sexy contrast to Paris Photo. St Germain- friend and cosseted, and the gallery direc- artists based in Berlin. The well-oiled assured and (terrifyingly to me) neutral, des-Prés is, today, only questionably a hap- tor's uniquely experienced eye determines onslaught of photographs from the North contemporary woman. I found light relief pening place, with a predictable pose that the taste, albeit with a sens des affaires. European states tend to favour ice-ridden with Christian Tagliavini's series of portraits: panders to the myth – and to tourism. X landscapes, penguins and climate change slightly caricatured modern takes on his- However, it unquestionably remains a per- X over nudes. Sharp-coloured houses bun- torical female icons of the genre. sonality place. Many of the art galleries, It's Paris Photo Press night and for the first dled and isolated within snowscapes by X photo agencies and dedicated art book- time in 15 years, it is being held in the vast Tiina Itkonen at Gallery Taik, was a good X shops that concentrate along and around expanse of the sturdy greenhouse that is example. The Chinese focus on the individ- Reed Expositions France organise 450 the rue de Seine are well-established and the Grand Palais. The 135 stands stretch ual versus the collective: such as Maleonn trade and consumer events each year in supremely specialised. At their helm is the out into quads to display the many, many (Ma Liang) at Magda Danysz, who fetishis- 32 countries, and Paris Photo is a high-cul- Parisian photo agency, Roger-Viollet, who photographs and some photo-books. There es memories to record past, personalised ture jewel amongst them. Mostly, these are maintains the photo archive for the Ville de is so much work to look at! Plus the educa- emotions; and the confusion of manipula- commercial trade rather than high-brow, Paris and makes them available to the gen- tional extras, installations (one by Markus tive and excessive communication in Du like Funeral Paris, which followed on from eral public online. The Photo festival had Schaden) and performances laid on to Zhenjun's Towers of Babel series at RX Paris Photo and promised to be a ‘perfect the feel of an extended street party and entertain and surprise in any spare Gallery. These are collated from architectur- place to communicate, learn and enjoy was unusual, because it involved some moment – plus awards being delivered al and political images collected from the yourself with your fellow professionals’. public institutions that normally remain (notably to Paul Graham) and book-signing internet, to create visual parables for the Reed claims their events promote the irre- aloof from the private sector. highlights (Edgar Martin annotating his The times, such as Old Europe, 2010. placeable ‘power of human contact’, aka X Time Machine). X social networking, making useful friends. The organising committee was typically X X And they probably do. homegrown with three members of the X To whet the appetite of the eye, there was X Aittouarès familly leading the Board. The Then there is the theme issue. Firstly, some homoerotica à la mode with Walter Certainly, these art fairs require stamina. theme, images et mots, reflected the dual L'Afrique à l'honneur, dictated by the Grand Pfeiffer at Sultana, followed by some dated They are like propaganda hypermarkets aspect of the area: the pleasures of eman- Palais event organisers, directed by newly glamour from Guy Bourdin at Michael with their highly-selective offerings. An cipated female flesh and the philosophical appointed Julien Frydman (former chief of Hoppen. In the frenzied but polite rush of it aura of exclusivity and excellence is main- existentialism of its poetic soul. Magnum Photos, Paris). Decorated and all you get to meet and discuss with the tained. Does the ‘hot’ dominate the ‘new’? X nonchalant black bodies pose and dance heroic galleries who organise the market, Yes, there is a tendency to equate expen- X – Malik Sidibé was well-represented – on and the singular artists who supply the sive with successful, it's the unimaginative Although retaining high heels entrenched one hand; and suffered poverty on the goods. So then the incitement to spend is default option. Nevertheless, there is also in the postwar past of the charming and the other – Pieter Hugo's photos of a vast beguiling. After some light-hearted, theatri- an abundance of genuine expertise and damned, the cherchez la femme thing has

2 f22 [www.f22magazine.com] ,OUISE"OBBE &!DPDF  

CONTENTS >> EDITORIAL | 05

Unless you are a press photographer the news – barely reported – that CNN have laid off a dozen staff lensmen went unnoticed. Although dressed up in good corporate speak, the gist of the news organisation’s position was that with so many citizens around, all armed with good definition new media gadgets, why continue to pay for what is readily available for free?

Now CNN might have a point if one takes an expanded perspective. The law of averages suggests that the worse snapper in the world can take at least one good shot. Of course, the professional can take one good shot, then another, and another. But the sheer number of people out there – in every corner of the planet – all armed with a digital or phone camera, brings to mind the apocryphal chimpanzees, typewriters and the Bible. Combine this with the insatiable desire of those addicted to the new media for personal recognition and it is logical to view them as a cheap source of budget pictures. Especially news images, what are known as reportage photographs.

News photographs are the ultimate in perishable goods and picture editors have only one imperative – the event, the moment, the image. History may well re-value any given image at a later date, but the longer the delay the more diminished is the impact in today’s world of instant communication. And no news gathering agency can have staff positioned everywhere at all times, no matter how percipient the editors are. Clearly ‘citizen journalists’ and their capability for instant, eyewitness reports, will have a role to play in the media of the future. There has been a wholesale move into ‘fine art’ photography by JE NE REGRETTE RIEN... those who previously worked exclusively for the newsprint media – not unrelated, one World Photography is Paris in November suspects, by the fact that the fine art world market has appropriated reportage images for 08 their own purposes.

The genie is out of the box. In an effort to counter the unstoppable flood of photo-based detritus that assaults the eye at every turn, attempts are being made to raise the bar. But when the art market drives German photographer, Andreas Gursky, into the ‘most expensive’ slot for Rhein II (at £2.7 million) it clearly has a long way to go. But then 40 PERISCOPE Tulipomania amongst the sober and prudent middle class of Holland and Germany Check out these hot was equally inexplicable. shows in PARIS Mike von Joel, Editor MANO-A-MANO COVER IMAGE | ISSUE 05 12 Two photographers, one conversation, a lifetime behind the camera CHRISTIAN TAGLIAVINI Artemisia from 1503 series

U THE SWISS-ITALIAN photographer was one of the darlings of the 2011 Paris Photo with his ingenious blend of craftsmanship, photography and art history, reconfigured in the modern idiom for the quasi-Renaissance series, 1503. Born in 1971, educated in Italy and Switzerland, where he lives and works as a graphic designer and a photographer, Tagliavani eschews the obvious clichés of Photoshop and achieves his curious Mannerist perspectives by Munich Photo SHELF LIFE optical means. The photographer himself makes New Directions New books of merit both the fabric and elements of the costumes for 16 18 the models (discovered on the street) who are fringed or entirely clothed in three-dimensional 06 SNAPSHOT 07 GREAT UNSEEN PHOTOS couture made of cardboard and material. ©Christian Tagliavini. Image courtesy of Diemar/Noble Photography, London. 07 URLS COURT

A PEOPLE | PLACES | PROJECTS EDITOR SPECIAL Mike von Joel CORRESPONDENTS [email protected] Clare Henry f22 Magazine is available through selected galleries, libraries, PUBLISHER Jeremy Hunt art schools, museums and other art venues across the UK. Karl Skogland Ian McKay [email protected] William Varley Georgina Turner c TOTALLY FREE, f22 is not a dull f22 is interactive. We value your DESIGN DIRECTOR review magazine – it is about recommendations. Tor Soreide BUREAU CHIEFS CORRESPONDENTS PUBLISHED BY [email protected] William Wright State Media Ltd PEOPLE worth serious consideration; Lyle Owerko Tell us: [email protected] SYDNEY LONDON ADMINISTRATION NEW YORK PLACES that are hot and happening; Elizabeth Crompton [email protected] Julie Milne Anne Chabrol MELBOURNE and PROJECTS that will interest To apply to stock f22 Magazine, email [email protected] PARIS DISTRIBUTION PRINTED BY photographers. Combined with STATE Julie Milne: [email protected] ADVERTISING EXECUTIVES David Tidball Julie Milne Garnett Dickinson Magazine, f22 reports the fusion of James Manning BERLIN [email protected] Rotherham S63 5DL art + photography like no other with a truly international perspective. www.f22magazine.com

www.f22magazine.com 5 QUOTEUNQUOTE h GREAT UNSEEN PHOTOGRAPHS

The Terry O’Neill/TAG Award has gone from a small online competition to major national photographic prize in just 5 years.

3 LUCY BELL, the founder First place went to Kenneth and driving force behind this O’Halloran, for his series Fair Trade, competition for contemporary examining the sub-culture of Irish photographers, has every right to Trade fairs. Born in the West of be pleased with herself. At the Ireland, O’Halloran has consistently end of 2011, the announcement documented his homeland with of the winning submissions – compassion and affection and was open to artists over 18 –was shortlisted for the Award in 2010. accompanied by an extensive spread in the Sunday Times’ Spectrum, a show at the hip Hot

1 Stanley Kubrick, camera in hand, watches Rosemary Williams, a top showgirl of the Forties. Shoe Gallery in London, and an V&A Acquires American 'I met [Lord] Patrick Lichfield. outstanding collection of images He was a nice guy but he said to Photographer’s Project from photographers from across Cult Director’s Snaps Up For Sale me: “It’s harder coming from my the world. NEW YORK photographer, Lyle Owerko, has Photographic work by the late controversial film director, Stanley Kubrick, has been background than it is coming sold samples of his latest work, Boombox, Founded in 2007 as a platform rediscovered and made public. from East Ham”.’ to the V&A for their permanent archive of for new and upcoming talent 1 Martina Lindqvist Rural Sweden 20th century historically significant objects. IN 1945, at the age of of director Kubrick (Lolita, Dr. Strangelove, DAVID BAILEY to Andrew Graham-Dixon and named in honour of one In 2010, Abrams published The Boombox 17, Kubrick became 2001: A Space Odyssey, A Clockwork reviewing his life and times as a snapper. of the UK’s most accomplished Second place was awarded to Project, Owerko’s historical overview of the youngest staff Orange, The Shining). Some of the lensmen, Terry O’Neill, the 2011 Swedish/Finnish photographer the seminal pop-culture icon, and the photographer in Look images are posed, others are from submissions were of such a high Martina Lindqvist, raised by corresponding artworks were recently magazine’s history, Kubrick’s work as a photo-journalist in calibre that selecting a winner Finnish parents in Sweden. exhibited in London (Whisper Fine Arts and staying with the New York. A proportion of sale proceeds was an almost impossible task. Lindqvist explores her sense XOYO until mid-January 2012). In 2010, magazine for five are to be donated to the City of New York. Judged by photographers O’Neill of ‘dispossession’ living astride Lyle was granted a prestigious Hasselblad years, before leaving Kubrick himself noted: ‘To make a film and Tim Flach; Mark Grosvenor these fiercely nationalistic Master award and his photograph of the to concentrate on entirely by yourself, which I initially did, (TAG), Lisa Creagh (Metro countries, using the isolation 9/11 attack for Time was called one of the filmmaking. Curators you may not have to know very much Imaging), Colin Finlay (Hot Shoe of the expansive, rural Finnish most important magazine covers in the last at the Museum of the about anything else, but you must Gallery) and Jon Jones of the landscape to express her 40 years by the American Society of City of New York and know about photography.’ Sunday Times, reaching a majority emotional conundrum. Magazine Editors. Lyle Owerko is f22 art advisers at VandM reviewed more than verdict was described as ‘a battle’. magazine’s New York Bureau Chief and his 10,000 negatives belonging to the estate Available from www.vandm.com ‘I said, “What old negatives?” The Terry O’Neill/TAG Award Third place went to Lucia Herrero, work has been featured in Communication dispels the myth that digital from Spain for her series Tribes, Arts magazine, New York Times, Village And they sent me the prints and technology has produced such and David Zimmerman, Jon Tonks, Voice, New York magazine, the London I thought, my God, did I take a plethora of images that the Alejandro Kirchuk, Alessandro Times, BlackBook, and Vanity Fair. these? They’re not bad. Secretly fine art of the photograph Grassani, Andrew John Simpson, I think they’re rather special. has been diluted down to Piotr Zbieski and Tamas Deszo They’re a bit odd and they’re of acceptable banality. were shortlisted. their time. Some are a bit abstract/surreal. I’m surprised LINKS HotShoe Gallery this many have survived.’ 7 Kenneth O’Halloran hotshoegallery.com The late film director KEN RUSSELL to Fair Trade series lucy-bell.com Jasper Rees on the exhibition of his rediscovered early photography. URLS COURT | LINKS ‘I think kids at school should somehow be told, Pictures As They Used to Be in Montreal and currently based in pros & cons in new photo Boss Result For Frank >> so they don’t think LET’S FACE IT. You can easily get New York City, Vice is noted for an hardware has to be by the guys A SIGNED COPY of Robert Frank’s celebrated tired of ‘serious photography’ like, irreverent style of photography. at Digital Photography Review. photo-essay, The Americans, reflected the they have to look like that for instance, Andreas Gursky’s Examples of subjects have been Independent of the manufacturers, avid collector interest in modern photography perfect person. Explain to them Rhine II, especially when it sells for ex-convicts showing how to make their dissection of all camera when Christie’s hammered it away at £43,250 it is advertising.’ $4.3 million. To get a bit of light a shiv-proof vest out of magazines releases from the major badges ($62,194, incl. buyer’s premium) against a relief where photography and the or malnourished Bangladeshi is so encyclopedic they give you MARY McCARTNEY to Roya Nikkhah on the modest estimate of £10,000-£15,000. The still image can still be provoking, children posing for a fashion shoot. a tutorial on how to understand Moving Pictures extensive retouching in almost all fashion Photobooks sale at South Kensington last year stimulating and amusing (and the vice.com the 22 point process. Or you can photography. underlines the steady increase in prices for THE LOS ANGELES County Museum of Art for the museum's completion and the One Click News Source rest) a detour to Vice magazine and digital imaging facilities in use the drop down menu to skip photography material at auction. The first US (LACMA) and the Academy of Motion Picture Academy is expected to launch a close-up on your PC online is worth the clicks. Founded Positive Internet Usage order to let these communities on to the ‘conclusion’ page. With edition of The Americans, with an introduction Arts and Sciences have joined forces to fundraising campaign sometime soon. >> NEWSPAPERS around the world >> DAYLIGHT Community Arts participate in the global visual exhaustive tests and detailed by Jack Kerouac (New York: Grove Press, establish a movie museum in the historic have discovered photography and Foundation (DCAF) is a non-profit dialogue. Good work. tech specs, each product is 1959) is a hardback of 83 black and white Downtown May & Co. building, currently In 2009 LACMA announced it was going to now contain ever expanding organisation publishing in-depth daylightmagazine.org usefully compared to its nearest photographs complete with dust-jacket. 'The known as LACMA West (corner of Wilshire eliminate the bulk of its film program due coverage of exhibitions and photo essays on important competitor. DPR redefines the most renowned photobook of all... none has Boulevard and Fairfax Avenue). LACMA to declining audiences and economic emerging talent – especially in issues of the day. Daylight Buying a New Camera? term ‘in-depth’ analysis. been more memorable, more influential, nor announced the Academy hopes to sign a constraints, but a public backlash caused their online editions. A quick Multimedia (online) has become >> YOU WON’T FIND the dpreview.com more fully realised... it changed the face of long-term lease on the 300,000 square feet a policy reversal. Today LACMA’s new film portal to a host of leading titles one of the premier showcases for professionals snatching a photo photography in the documentary mode'. ABPC space, and ‘will retain autonomy over all program is a partnership with Film from the Independent to the contemporary photography and, mag off the shelves to check out records no other copy inscribed at the time of aspects of its museum while benefiting Independent, the organisation behind ‘Taking photographs is a very LA Times, just click a logo to in addition, DCAF seeks to help the latest cameras, lenses, publication selling at auction in over 30 years. from LACMA's experience in managing a the LA Film Festival. nasty thing to do. It’s very cruel.’ access. Needs a refresh but under-represented communities printers and performance charts. Source: The Guardian premier arts institution’. There is no timeline Source: Los Angeles Times still useful: share their stories by distributing The definitive and most TONY SNOWDON to Elizabeth Grice dailynewspaper.co.uk 1 Andreas Gursky Rhine II cameras, establishing darkroom comprehensive survey of depreciating the art of photography (as usual).

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7 Christian Tagliavini Cecilia from the series 1503 Tagliavini's depictions are deliberately engineered in a three-dimensional couture made of cardboard and fabric Exhibition at Diemar/Noble Photography, London until 4 February 2012

JE NE REGRETTE RIEN... T THE END OF LAST season, Paris hosted dump for obsolete technology on the out- cal surrealist landscapes by Scarlett Hooft informed risk, so that the range of contem- two contrasting photo events: the annual skirts of a Ghana slum. Added to the mix is Graafland, also at Hoppen, I visited some porary photography on offer is brilliant, Paris Photo, and the galleries of Saint- what the sponsors want to show off: the JP aerial landscapes by Edward Burtynsky at diverse, thriving. For the galleries present Especially when you can have everything. For photography professionals, Germain-des-Prés. The former is an interna- Morgan Chase Collection, for example; and Flowers. In contrast to the pastoral patch- it's a time to show off discreetly and prove tional proclamation of today’s (and tomor- the major and institutional acquisitions: work quilts of yesteryear's countryside, themselves worthy. Every artist wants to the time to love Paris is in November. row's) top dog names, the latter a celebra- such as the Tate buying in of Daido these present an abstract etching of land be represented and included therein. And tion of the mythical quartier, with its Moriyama for an exhibition next year; and rendered by industrial exploitation, with the visitor gets a snapshot of the organis- TEXT GEORGINA TURNER 1950’s heritage of art, jazz, cabaret – and the Musée de l'Elysée's purchase of the spectacular effect. I landed in Baudoin ing mix that makes up the contemporary women of experienced virtue. Paris Photo Charlie Chaplin archives. Lebon and discussed Madagascan race art+photography world, in which the is based on a business model of free mar- X and identity issues with the artist Malala French particularly excel, as well as the T THE END OF LAST heroic galleries who organise the market, ket pushiness, where high expectations X Andrialavidrazana. Her starkly intimate inte- opportunity to garner the most valuable season, Paris hosted two and the singular artists who supply the entertain big bucks chasing the best of Finally, and overwhelmingly, there is what rior shots reprimand the tourist's idealised opinions around. contrasting photo events: goods. So then the incitement to spend unique names. The first Festival Photo the market wants to show: the expensive view of her native country. Then some por- X the annual Paris Photo, is beguiling. After some light-hearted, Saint Germain-des-Prés is a much cosier classics supported by established galleries traits to end: Barbara Probst's Exposure X and the galleries of Saint- theatrical surrealist landscapes by Scarlett affair of family-run, entrepreneurial gal- in Paris, London, New York; emerging pho- #49 presents a disconnected, standard- Festival Photo Saint Germain-des-Prés is a Germain-des-Prés. The Hooft Graafland, also at Hoppen, I visited leries. Where each customer is wooed as a tographers from Scandinavia, China, and ised view of an organised, asexual, self- sexy contrast to Paris Photo. St Germain- former is an international some aerial landscapes by Edward friend and cosseted, and the gallery direc- artists based in Berlin. The well-oiled assured and (terrifyingly to me) neutral, des-Prés is, today, only questionably a hap- proclamation of today’s Burtynsky at Flowers. In contrast to the tor's uniquely experienced eye determines onslaught of photographs from the North contemporary woman. I found light relief pening place, with a predictable pose that (and tomorrow's) top dog names, the latter pastoral patchwork quilts of yesteryear's the taste, albeit with a sens des affaires. European states tend to favour ice-ridden with Christian Tagliavini's series of portraits: panders to the myth – and to tourism. Aa celebration of the mythical quartier, with countryside, these present an abstract X landscapes, penguins and climate change slightly caricatured modern takes on his- However, it unquestionably remains a per- its 1950’s heritage of art, jazz, cabaret – etching of land rendered by industrial X over nudes. Sharp-coloured houses bun- torical female icons of the genre. sonality place. Many of the art galleries, and women of experienced virtue. Paris exploitation, with spectacular effect. It's Paris Photo Press night and for the first dled and isolated within snowscapes by X photo agencies and dedicated art book- Photo is based on a business model of free I landed in Baudoin Lebon and discussed time in 15 years, it is being held in the vast Tiina Itkonen at Gallery Taik, was a good X shops that concentrate along and around market pushiness, where high expectations Madagascan race and identity issues with expanse of the sturdy greenhouse that is example. The Chinese focus on the individ- Reed Expositions France organise 450 the rue de Seine are well-established and entertain big bucks chasing the best of the artist Malala Andrialavidrazana. Her the Grand Palais. The 135 stands stretch ual versus the collective: such as Maleonn trade and consumer events each year in supremely specialised. At their helm is the unique names. The first Festival Photo starkly intimate interior shots reprimand out into quads to display the many, many (Ma Liang) at Magda Danysz, who fetishis- 32 countries, and Paris Photo is a high-cul- Parisian photo agency, Roger-Viollet, who Saint Germain-des-Prés is a much cosier the tourist's idealised view of her native photographs and some photo-books. There es memories to record past, personalised ture jewel amongst them. Mostly, these are maintains the photo archive for the Ville de affair of family-run, entrepreneurial country. Then some portraits to end: is so much work to look at! Plus the educa- emotions; and the confusion of manipula- commercial trade rather than high-brow, Paris and makes them available to the gen- galleries. Where each customer is wooed Barbara Probst's Exposure #49 presents tional extras, installations (one by Markus tive and excessive communication in Du like Funeral Paris, which followed on from eral public online. The Photo festival had as a friend and cosseted, and the gallery a disconnected, standardised view of an Schaden) and performances laid on to Zhenjun's Towers of Babel series at RX Paris Photo and promised to be a ‘perfect the feel of an extended street party and director's uniquely experienced eye organised, asexual, self-assured and entertain and surprise in any spare Gallery. These are collated from architectur- place to communicate, learn and enjoy was unusual, because it involved some determines the taste, albeit with a sens (terrifyingly to me) neutral, contemporary

moment – plus awards being delivered al and political images collected from the yourself with your fellow professionals’. public institutions that normally remain des affaires. woman. I found light relief with Christian (notably to Paul Graham) and book-signing internet, to create visual parables for the Reed claims their events promote the irre- aloof from the private sector. Tagliavini's series of portraits: slightly

highlights (Edgar Martin annotating his The times, such as Old Europe, 2010. placeable ‘power of human contact’, aka X It's Paris Photo Press night and for the first 1 caricatured modern takes on historical Time Machine). X social networking, making useful friends. The organising committee was typically time in 15 years, it is being held in the vast Stefanie Schneider Austen smoke rings from Hitchhikers series, 2009 female icons of the genre. 128 x 150 cm, hand-printed by the artist, mounted on aluminium. © Galerie Catherine et André Hug. Paris X X And they probably do. homegrown with three members of the expanse of the sturdy greenhouse that is X To whet the appetite of the eye, there was X Aittouarès familly leading the Board. The the Grand Palais. The 135 stands stretch ( Reed Expositions France organise 450 Then there is the theme issue. Firstly, some homoerotica à la mode with Walter Certainly, these art fairs require stamina. theme, images et mots, reflected the dual out into quads to display the many, many trade and consumer events each year in L'Afrique à l'honneur, dictated by the Grand Pfeiffer at Sultana, followed by some dated They are like propaganda hypermarkets aspect of the area: the pleasures of eman- photographs and some photo-books. ‘high expectations entertain 32 countries, and Paris Photo is a high- Palais event organisers, directed by newly glamour from Guy Bourdin at Michael with their highly-selective offerings. An cipated female flesh and the philosophical There is so much work to look at! Plus the big bucks chasing the best of culture jewel amongst them. Mostly, these appointed Julien Frydman (former chief of Hoppen. In the frenzied but polite rush of it aura of exclusivity and excellence is main- existentialism of its poetic soul. educational extras, installations (one by are commercial trade rather than high- Magnum Photos, Paris). Decorated and all you get to meet and discuss with the tained. Does the ‘hot’ dominate the ‘new’? X Markus Schaden) and performances laid unique names.’ brow, like Funeral Paris, which followed nonchalant black bodies pose and dance heroic galleries who organise the market, Yes, there is a tendency to equate expen- X on to entertain and surprise in any spare ( on from Paris Photo and promised to be a – Malik Sidibé was well-represented – on and the singular artists who supply the sive with successful, it's the unimaginative Although retaining high heels entrenched moment – plus awards being delivered ‘perfect place to communicate, learn one hand; and suffered poverty on the goods. So then the incitement to spend is default option. Nevertheless, there is also in the postwar past of the charming and the (notably to Paul Graham) and book-signing acquisitions: such as the Tate buying in of individual versus the collective: such as and enjoy yourself with your fellow other – Pieter Hugo's photos of a vast beguiling. After some light-hearted, theatri- an abundance of genuine expertise and damned, the cherchez la femme thing has highlights (Edgar Martin annotating his Daido Moriyama for an exhibition next year; Maleonn (Ma Liang) at Magda Danysz, professionals’. Reed claims their events The Time Machine). and the Musée de l'Elysée's purchase of who fetishises memories to record promote the irreplaceable ‘power of human the Charlie Chaplin archives. past, personalised emotions; and the contact’, aka social networking, making Then there is the theme issue. Firstly, confusion of manipulative and excessive useful friends. And they probably do. L'Afrique à l'honneur, dictated by the Grand Finally, and overwhelmingly, there is what communication in Du Zhenjun's Towers Certainly, these art fairs require stamina. Palais event organisers, directed by newly the market wants to show: the expensive of Babel series at RX Gallery. These are They are like propaganda hypermarkets appointed Julien Frydman (former chief of classics supported by established galleries collated from architectural and political with their highly-selective offerings. An Magnum Photos, Paris). Decorated and in Paris, London, New York; emerging images collected from the internet, to aura of exclusivity and excellence is nonchalant black bodies pose and dance photographers from Scandinavia, China, create visual parables for the times, such maintained. Does the ‘hot’ dominate the – Malik Sidibé was well-represented – on and artists based in Berlin. The well-oiled as Old Europe, 2010. ‘new’? Yes, there is a tendency to equate one hand; and suffered poverty on the onslaught of photographs from the North expensive with successful, it's the other – Pieter Hugo's photos of a vast European states tend to favour ice-ridden To whet the appetite of the eye, there was unimaginative default option. dump for obsolete technology on the landscapes, penguins and climate change some homoerotica à la mode with Walter Nevertheless, there is also an abundance outskirts of a Ghana slum. Added to the over nudes. Sharp-coloured houses Pfeiffer at Sultana, followed by some dated of genuine expertise and informed risk, mix is what the sponsors want to show bundled and isolated within snowscapes glamour from Guy Bourdin at Michael so that the range of contemporary off: the JP Morgan Chase Collection, for by Tiina Itkonen at Gallery Taik, was a Hoppen. In the frenzied but polite rush of photography on offer is brilliant, diverse, example; and the major and institutional good example. The Chinese focus on the it all you get to meet and discuss with the thriving. For the galleries present it's a

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1 Tiina Itkonen Uummannaq V 2007 C-print, Diasec, 70 x 200 cm © the artist Courtesy Gallery TAIK

1 Daniela Edburg The Storm 2010 Lambda print, 100 x 150 cm, Edition of 7 © the artist 1 Mario Giacomelli lo non ho mani che mi accarezzino il volto © Héritiers Mario Giacomelli Courtesy Bailly Contemporain. Paris Courtesy Galeries Berthet-Aittouarès et Aittouarès. Paris time to show off discreetly and prove ( Homme libre, PEN IN THE CITY themselves worthy. Every artist wants ‘The well-oiled onslaught of photographs toujours tu chériras la mer to be represented and included therein. from the North European states tend to La mer est ton miroir; Sure, the focus is lightning fast and the exposure system the most advanced ever The image above was just one of our favourites from the day intended to show And the visitor gets a snapshot of the tu contemples ton ame seen, but it is still rewarding to experiment. One of the beauties of the PEN system is off how good the PEN is for street photography. In this case we used a model organising mix that makes up the favour ice-ridden landscapes, penguins Dans le déroulement infini de sa lame being able to attach almost any lens via a variety of readily available adapters. as sometimes it is necessary to cheat a little. contemporary art+photography world, ( Et ton esprit n'est pas un gouffre amer in which the French particularly excel, and climate change over nudes.’ At the bottom of someone's drawer there was a 100mm f2 Olympus Zuiko prime What we would really love to see is one of your shots in this space. If you fancy as well as the opportunity to garner the Charles Baudelaire Les fleurs du Mal telephoto lens from the 1970's. Manual focus gets you concentrating and attached to the challenge, send us an example image in a style you think might fit, to most valuable opinions around. a PEN E-P3 via an adapter it seemed an unlikely combination but yielded some press.offi[email protected]. We will choose one or two we like, send you a PEN The organising committee was typically The overall effect is one of comfortable A brash goldrush – or a continuing interesting results on a chilly day by the Thames. and let you have a go. The ones we like keep the camera. Festival Photo Saint Germain-des-Prés homegrown with three members of the constraint or indulgent compliance: party? A ‘gone tomorrow’ nomadic fair – Next was the 12-60mm E-System zoom that seems to have more glass than a To see how far we pushed it, have a look at www.flickr.com/photos/olympusuk is a sexy contrast to Paris Photo. Aittouarès familly leading the Board. The the figure is oddly attractive yet or a cloister of galleries, here to stay? glazier's warehouse. Here, you gain an exceptionally wide maximum aperture for a or search “PEN in the City Volume 1” on YouTube. St Germain-des-Prés is, today, only theme, images et mots, reflected the unsettlingly passive. In contrast, With photography, in Paris, every zoom and the ability to capture more filmic results than usually seen with digital optics. questionably a happening place, with a dual aspect of the area: the pleasures Stefanie Schneider in Highway presents November, you can have it all. See the PEN at WWW.OLYMPUS.CO.UK/PEN predictable pose that panders to the of emancipated female flesh and the a benign take on Thelma and Louise: there myth – and to tourism. However, it philosophical existentialism of its is no anger, perhaps a little boredom. Georgina Turner is State/f22 Editor-at-Large > PEN - SEE THINGS YOUR WAY. unquestionably remains a personality poetic soul. There is no narrative either, but a tone (Europe) based in Italy. place. Many of the art galleries, of washed-out, speakeasy sexuality photo agencies and dedicated art Although retaining high heels entrenched installs itself, drifting into a carefree – bookshops that concentrate along in the postwar past of the charming and the flighty and flirty – but not unpleasant and around the rue de Seine are well- damned, the cherchez la femme thing has petulance. established and supremely specialised. moved on. A lot of cul (pronounced to At their helm is the Parisian photo rhyme with coo) granted, but aside from Homage was paid to Mario Giacomelli agency, Roger-Viollet, who maintains the spick-and-spank Crazy Horse images, (1925-2000) for his steadfast, PEN mini PEN Lite PEN the photo archive for the Ville de Paris more contemporary interpretations of compassionate images and their kinship and makes them available to the general femininity are presented. They do not to poets like Emily Dickinson, for whom public online. The Photo festival had the preclude sensuality, but bring it up-to-date. le miroir reflet la nature. Less delicate, the feel of an extended street party and was So Daniela Edburg's photo, The Storm, heavily potent poem by Baudelaire that unusual, because it involved some public shows an androgynous lone figure turned accompanied Xavier Roy's image of the institutions that normally remain aloof away and dressed in a knitted bright sea in Morocco – the combination 1 Xavier Roy Essaouira Maroc 1984 40 x 50 cm from the private sector. orange strait-jacket with extended arms. making for an imperfect peace: © Courtesy Kartner La Cardinale. Paris

www.f22magazine.com 11 PEOPLE MICHAEL BIRT & DAFYDD JONES

3 Michael Birt Bill Brandt

View through a lens: Two contemporaries, one conversation

TEXT MICHAEL BIRT | IMAGES MICHAEL BIRT/DAFYDD JONES

c Dafydd Jones: How do you get work? wide-angle camera and some of his Michael Birt: Originally it was sitting at photographs. I bought one of his prints a desk making calls. Something I didn’t recently, Nude 1953; I waited for years like, most photographers find that to be able to buy one. It is now clear difficult. The reception was nearly that he was one of the great artists of always positive but I remember one the last century. picture editor on a newspaper, he told me to reconsider my need to be a I bought one too. I went to Bill Brandt’s photographer. I couldn’t believe it. exhibition, just after his death, at the I wrote a note in my diary, marking it V&A. There were extraordinary looking as a bad day. women there, who turned out to be his models. One of them I talked to posed Do you still make those calls? CLARE PARK Michael Birt for his East Sussex beach series. She Only if a magazine is doing something told me that they would work all day different. Recently I called Intelligent but he only took a couple of frames. Life. Graham Black, the Creative Director, ‘Brandt filters through I was at that exhibition too and the is an interesting man and I love the way first person I saw was his brother, Rolf. he art-directs magazines. Generally the all my work. He was He looked so like Bill Brandt, it was work comes in. In the past I had to turn very quiet and couldn’t rather disturbing. down as much work as I took on, these days I get great work and a good volume understand why I took so Do you still write to people to ask for but the market has shrunk considerably. many frames – I didn’t, a sitting? I have been photographing theatre Not that often, but I did write to Ai posters over the last few years, which but he would only take Weiwei just before he was arrested. I enjoy enormously. I know Michelle one or two’ Understandably, I didn’t hear back. I am Collins and she asked me to do a poster not giving up on him; he is at the top of for a play she was in, since then I have MICHAEL BIRT my list. I recently contacted Walid Siti, an done 4-5 a year. I like the collaboration Iraqi artist living in London. His work is with the advertising agencies – the and spending the day taking pictures, astounding, he paints beautiful abstract exposure the work gets is very attractive. sometimes being fed. John Piper’s wife, landscapes (see State issue 5 pages When I started out, I wrote to people Myfanwy, cooked me one of the best 10-11). asking them to sit for a portrait: subjects meals I have ever had. like John Osborne, Henry Moore, How did you get to work for Tina Brown’s Julie Walters and Bill Brandt. This was What was Bill Brandt like? Talk in New York? important, as I have many images that Brandt filters through all my work. He Before Tina launched Talk, unbeknownst would otherwise never have existed. I was very quiet and couldn’t understand to me she had a picture of mine in her have a wonderful collection of letters, why I took so many frames – I didn’t, dummy issue, of Vinnie Jones. She met some handwritten, from the sitters either but he would only take one or two. Jon Link, the art director of Loaded, who replying to my invitation or thanking me His apartment in Kensington was she was considering as an art director for the portrait. Unlike now, it was a fascinating; it was a privilege to see it, for Talk. He had many of my portraits gentle pace and I spent much of the full of the artifacts that were in his in his portfolio including the one in the early 1980’s driving to country cottages photographs. He showed me his dummy. She called me and I met her at

12 www.f22magazine.com www.f22magazine.com 13 PEOPLE MICHAEL BIRT & DAFYDD JONES ANALYSIS OF GENIUS

1 Dafydd Jones Feet, New York (Cindy Adams) 1 Dafydd Jones Sleeping Couple, Henley 1988

the Berkeley Hotel in Knightsbridge and anyone else and it takes you out of the gave was very useful. After that I set up photographs, Chris Beetles didn’t I don’t want. I found it liberating when What have you learned through I have a bad memory for people’s she offered me a job. The sort of meeting market. Then it requires time to rebuild a studio in Oxford with the money I had like the images because he hated I went to work in New York, as no one taking pictures? names, I’d struggle remembering the you dream of – I was there for two years. your clientele. saved. I entered some of the Butlins those people. knew who I was, so they reacted less. To be polite. I sometimes take pictures I lesser-known celebrities at events, photographs into a Sunday Times shouldn’t and I tend to apologise as I take do you? When I was working at Talk, I had the How important is your website? competition and was shortlisted. We were Has anything happened that you didn’t What sort of camera do you use and them. If I were not polite, I’d get punched Yes, I do. I have notebooks and make feeling that it wouldn’t last, did you? Very important, more important than I given a subject to photograph; my theme expect when working? has digital changed the way you work? on the nose. notes as I work as an aide-mémoire. The Not really, not until near the end. I think ever gave it credit for. My first site was was the return of The Bright New Things Actually almost all the time, which I I like less bulky cameras with fixed people I work for are obsessed about 9/11 made it difficult for it to carry on, the built in 2001 and it became outdated at Oxford University. This in turn led to enjoy. In the 1980’s at a charity ball, a lenses, Leicas and Nikons. I think digital Do you have a favourite picture? celebs but I like to photograph ordinary atmosphere in New York changed then. technically and visually. I left it for too Tina Brown asking me to work for Tatler. scene unfolded in front of me. A young has changed my photography as I take It’s hard to pick a favourite. people too. I do tend to take pictures When it started, it was an exciting time long, because it takes so much time to woman pulled a gun and pointed it at a more frames. My panoramas are easier of what is interesting rather than just and I photographed most days all over the redesign and build. My new site does get Tell me about Mark Boxer’s influence guy’s head. It went through my mind to do digitally, which are stitched-together One of mine is the one you took of personalities. As with Cindy Adams, I just United States. I liked Tina and we seemed me work; it is the new portfolio. Although at Tatler? that this was going to be a great picture, frames. Originally, I began to be interested Cindy Adams, the writer, just of her legs. saw the legs, and took the picture before to have the same idea about photography I do want to make changes to it – to It was great working for Mark, my party but then I noticed the expression on the in QuickTime VR movies but couldn’t That was taken at a union demonstration knowing who it was. and magazines. The launch party on include more writing and perhaps video. pictures were very popular and it enabled young man’s face – he looked scared. find a way to sell them. An art director MICHAEL BIRT Dafydd Jones in New York. Norman Mailer was Liberty Island was probably the best him to sell a lot of advertising next to that I worried my flash going off may make suggested that they should be flat campaigning to stop the Daily News Have you ever been papped? party of all time. I sat between Madonna Do you still use film? section, which in turn allowed him to put her shoot so didn’t take the picture. panoramas. I think they tell a good being sold. She was sitting on a car. I was outside a church in New York on and Lauren Bacall, who I watched comb No – a couple of times in the last 4 more resources into my photographs. Another man calmed her down and led story, especially at red carpet events, ‘A young woman pulled Cindy has lovely ankles, she used to be a rainy day, Lech Wałesa was attending her hair, which was as sensual as it gets. years. I was asked to use film recently He was personally interested in my her away. the narrative unfolds in the picture, a bit a gun and pointed it at a model. Ankles and feet are a bit of an a service with other celebrities. I saw a The photographs you took on the ferry but refused; my assistants and I are set work; he would note his favourites on A few years later I was working at a like Eadweard Muybridge’s work. obsession. Funny you mention that man, a short guy with a camera in his to Liberty Island are very special. I up for digital and find it too hard to revert. the contact sheet with a big tick. I was party and the same young man a guy’s head. It went picture; I do have a print and have been hand, a little self-important, but he remember the sun was setting over the I love digital, its quality and the ability for sometimes worried that my best pictures approached me and said he had been Which photographers influence you? thinking of framing it. looked so good I took a picture of him. Hudson; the light was so elegant. post-production and printing large scale, were not being used, so Mark asked me to terrified but had never forgotten the I like press photographs. The image of through my mind that He obviously didn’t like it and a little it’s like being back in the darkroom again. put a gold star next to my choice, the expression on my face – when I had Gaddafi when he was dead, with the this was going to be Do you take street pictures? later he came up to me and shoved a Do you work on your own projects? stars ended up on the back of the prints realised it was a real gun. Apparently many hands holding mobile phones and No. But if I had been there, I’d have camera in my face in an aggressive No, I like my portraits to be part of a job. too, a bit like being at school. she was from a wealthy European taking photographs of him. It was a very a great picture’ taken pictures of the riots in London, way with his assistant holding a flash. Although it is something I want to do. I family and her father had given her the powerful image. Bill Brandt is an old DAFYDD JONES perhaps just as well I wasn’t. It’s hard I asked someone who it was. Avedon, used to photograph nudes and I’d like to I love your aristocracy pictures for Tatler, gun for protection. favourite and Bailey’s work in the 1960’s, to know when to take a picture if came the reply. re-look at the subject again. They were  they show an era and a part of British life 1970’s and 1980’s. More recently, the something so awful happens. I was very abstract and I’d like to make them c Michael Birt: How did you start? that’s seen less these days? I have watched you work at parties, Polish photographer Maciej Dakowicz, black and white but they tend to ignore in Brighton when the bomb went off at more emotive this time. Dafydd Jones: I was at Winchester School I was so sure it was a fantastic subject; you are one of the most unnoticed who takes pictures of drunken people at them and use the colour files. the Grand Hotel. I was staying a couple of Art doing painting and photography but no one else was doing it. I remember photographers in the room, is that weekends in Cardiff. of doors away but slept through the Do you have a contract with a magazine? I didn’t think I could make a living from them being so fantastically polite. The something you have worked on? Do you always have your camera explosion. When I woke up and heard LINKS Not at the moment. I have had contracts, painting. Afterwards I got a job at Butlins aristocracy is now more hidden away, No, I don’t work on it but I like the idea Is black and white important to you? with you? the news, I went to take a couple michael-birt.com they can be very productive but also have in Minehead as a ‘Colour Walkie’ to I rarely photograph them these days. of it. If people are aware of you, they tend Yes, I sometimes convert from colour, I Yes, I do, but I also like my iPhone camera of photographs but not with any a negative side, as you can’t work for photograph the campers. The discipline it Some people react badly to the to stand in front of you and smile, which think my work for Vanity Fair is better in – the files are pretty good. enthusiasm. dafjones.com

14 www.f22magazine.com www.f22magazine.com 15 PEOPLE BLANCA BERNHEIMER

1 Christopher Thomas Passion 01 / Singer in the Chorus 5 Archival Pigment Print, mounted on Aludibond 1 Christopher Thomas High Priest 5 Archival Pigment Print, mounted on Aludibond 1 Christopher Thomas Passion 34 / Veronica Archival Pigment Print, mounted on Aludibond 1 Christopher Thomas Money Changer from the Temple Archival Pigment Print, mounted on Aludibond Ed. of 7 82 x 110 cm © CHRISTOPHER THOMAS Courtesy Bernheimer Fine Art Photography Ed. of 7 82 x 110 cm © CHRISTOPHER THOMAS Courtesy Bernheimer Fine Art Photography Ed. of 7 82 x 110 cm © CHRISTOPHER THOMAS Courtesy Bernheimer Fine Art Photography Ed. of 7 82 x 110 cm © CHRISTOPHER THOMAS Courtesy Bernheimer Fine Art Photography

This Munich-born photographer, who until then was better with the encouragement of her father – who is thrilled that known for his work in advertising, captured on camera the his daughter has joined the firm. whole cast of the 2010 Oberammergau Passion Play which ‘There was never any pressure on any of us girls to go into is performed in Bavaria every ten years. These powerful the art world’, she says. ‘My father was very clear about images are printed with a sepia cast to give a vintage, that, especially as an only son, he personally never had A SIGN OF THE TIMES historic feel and the whole set has been compiled into a any choice. He has been very generous to me with his collector’s edition volume although individual shots are for contacts, advice and experience and Munich is a wonderful The momentum of the photographic image in the international art arena has persuaded one sale. For three months, from mid-October last year to 15 centre for high-quality art photography. The city attracts a January 2012, the work was exhibited in the Bavarian wide market of German and foreign visitors and of course the Europe’s most established Old Master dealers to break with tradition. National Museum in Munich. our prices are much lower than paintings so customers Also showing in Munich this winter is a spectacular can make a spontaneous purchase without blowing the TEXT JENNIFER SHARP exhibition of Irving Penn’s images of native people from budget.’ remote places such as Peru, T PARIS PHOTO last November, the theme ‘This was our third year at Paris Photo,’ she says, ‘a huge Dahomey, Cameroon and Constant change over was Africa and within the magnificent honour, as there is a rigorous selection process. Our stand New Guinea. It has been achieved ‘Munich is a wonderful 150 years has been an space of the Grand Palais was a relatively was very successful and we attracted lots of new clients, only after protracted negotiations centre for high-quality art essential part of the new company, Bernheimer Fine Art especially American collectors.’ over eight months with the Irving Bernheimer success Photography, based in Munich. Penn Foundation. The show is photography. The city story. Just as her father Twenty-nine year old Blanca Bernheimer Founded as recently as 2004, Bernheimer Fine Art called Ethnos and comprises 33 changed the direction was exhibiting work by Irving Penn, Photography has mounted an extensive programme of images, all original prints by Penn attracts a wide market of of the great enterprise Mirella Ricciardi, Nick Brandt, Silke Lauffs top-quality exhibitions, both solo shows of contemporary himself, with prices starting at he inherited, so Blanca and wunderkind Jan C. Schlegel, whose hand-toned silver artists and group exhibitions of 20th century work. One of US$ 20,000. The most treasured German and foreign visitors’ is forging her own printsA were the talk of the fair. The world’s collectors, the most innovative ideas is to show modern photogra- image, Cuzco Children, dating interpretation of the curators and experts are drawn to Paris for these five phers alongside Old Master paintings in the same genre. from 1948, is on sale for Bernheimer name. ‘I days of Paris Photo, one of the most important art Blanca juxtaposed limited-edition photography by Guido US$ 1 million. The show runs hope one day we’ll be fairs for photography. Among the influential galleries Mocafico alongside still-life paintings of the Dutch Old at Bernheimer Munich to 21 January 2012 and is better known for photography than Old Masters,’ she says exhibiting were New York’s Pace McGill, and Gagosian, Masters. It was unnerving and exhilarating to see them accompanied by a very fine book. cheekily, ‘but I think that’s some way off.’ It’s an ambition which had acquired the Richard Avedon archive earlier hang side by side. her father would be proud of. in the year. Initially Blanca had quite different career plans. She Blanca has put on shows in London and Munich with work studied philosophy and literature at Kings College London, LINKS: bernheimer.com Blanca is the fifth generation of Bernheimers active in the by Robert Mapplethorpe, Lucien Clergue, Toni Schneiders and then flirted with media, journalism, publishing and PR art trade. Whereas her father Konrad is a world expert in Old and Julian Schnabel. She’s also a great supporter of in London and Germany. Living in Berlin in 2004, she was 1 Blanca Bernheimer in her Munich gallery, 2011. IRVING PENN Master paintings and his predecessors supplied antiques up-and-coming artists such as German-Swiss Mat Henner involved with the edgy modern art movement and was 2 Photograph by Dirk Bruniecki Scarred Dahomey Girl 1967 to the great houses of Europe and the New World, Blanca is and British-born Veronica Bailey. asked to curate two photography shows featuring young Platinum print c. 33 x 33 cm. Ed of 21 © The Irving Penn Foundation a passionate champion of photography as a major art form. artists Nick Brandt and Silke Lauffs. Despite an enticing She is the only one of Konrad’s four daughters to enter the own niche and a significant name for herself with Bernheimer Fine Art Photography championed the offer to open a gallery in Berlin, she decided to join 3 Standing Warrior, Sitting Girl Cameroon, 1969 business and in true family fashion she has created her Bernheimer Fine Art Photography. extraordinary series Passion by Christopher Thomas. Bernheimer Munich and develop the photography business Silver gelatine print c. 45 x 43 cm. Ed of 5 © The Irving Penn Foundation

16 www.f22magazine.com www.f22magazine.com 17 EDITED BY MIKE VON JOEL PEOPLE THAMES & HUDSON

One of the great imprints of traditional publishing is still in the vanguard of 21st century art books

1 Patrick Demarchelier THE TALE OF Atelier Chanel 2008 7 Albert Watson Advertising Campaign 1986

Images for Chanel today – for magazines, commercials, even TWO CITIES movies – are created by the modern greats of fashion photography, in AMED AFTER the two rivers running Accessible but never mass market, T&H developed a parallel to the ground-breaking style through two great capitals of the art world production formula that closely integrated the editor, of the early days. They are soulful and – London and New York – it was actually designer and photographer, and some legendary names sensuous, playful and challenging, a Viennese émigré who launched Thames in the industry built their careers at T&H – as well as edgy and elegant, always timeless – & Hudson in 1949, amidst the post war members of the Neurath family who maintained hands on just like the clothes themselves. austerity of a bedraggled London. From control, notably Walter’s son, Thomas Neurath. ‘The book elementary beginnings, the sign of the industry was narrative-based and non-illustrated before An innovative new book, Chanel: The two dolphins rapidly rose to become one of the world’s the 1960’s,’ he once noted. ‘The appetite for illustrated 1 Downtown Los Angeles. 1965 Hopper’s camera of choice at this time was the Nikon F loaded with Tri-X film. Vocabulary of Style, by Paris-based Ngreatest publishers of art related books. books began in the 1960’s and is now firmly a part of Jerome Gautier, celebrates the key the publishing fabric, with everyone much more visually An ideal tool for street photography which performed well in low light conditions as well as sunlight. His street elements of Chanel’s style through Walter Neurath was born in Austria in 1903, where he sophisticated.’ the inspired pairing of classic and worked as an art dealer and publisher of illustrated books Ian Sutton spent over 50 years overseeing highly contemporary photographs. For with a strong bias towards education. When he arrived in complex illustrated books at T&H, being regarded as an instance, Cecil Beaton's portrait of London in 1938, Neurath continued old style editor who worked with the Coco Chanel appears alongside in a similar vein by working for ‘T&H developed a authors to create the best possible Lagerfeld's(1) study of Cate Blanchett Adprint, a business established by texts, overseeing all aspects of 8 Bohemia 1966 1 Spain 1971 emulating her pose; and a classic an Austrian compatriot, Wolfgang production formula design and production. Sutton plate by Henry Clarke flanks an equally Foges. These two are credited that closely integrated remained at his desk well into arresting shot by Juergen Teller. today with developing the concept his seventies. THE OTHERS PICTURE THIS Among the greats names of photo- of book ‘packaging’, whereby titles the editor, designer Nikos Stangos was also one the graphy with contributions are: Horst P. are conceived, designed and great names in art books. Formerly A society disregarded, dispossessed and disenfranchised. The remarkable evolution of a legend Horst, Richard Avedon, Patrick produced after being ‘sold on’ and photographer’ at Penguin where he established his TEXT MIKE VON JOEL TEXT MARY WEAVER Demarchelier, Ellen von Unwerth, to other publishing houses. This credentials with its Modern Poets William Klein, Edward Steichen, innovative approach to what was then a very staid, series (1960’s - 70’s) and a book that has become an art WELLERS in the Western convenient workforce to that of aliens to ‘This is a precious described as abject poverty, and in ABRIELLE ‘Coco’ Chanel is Mario Testino and Man Ray. academic division of the publishing industry was a world classic, John Berger’s Ways Of Seeing (1972). At democracies like to delude be persecuted by suspicious and bigoted slum conditions, dressed almost in universally acknowledged as forecast of what was to distinguish Thames & Hudson T&H he expanded the World of Art series and collaborated themselves that they are a local communities – a situation that has archival document rags, the Roma stare into the camera the most influential fashion By juxtaposing fashion plates from in future years. with leading artists and historians to create important pleasant mix of independence, lasted until the present day. The gypsies unbowed and completely assured of designer of the 20th century. Chanel's time alongside those by books on David Hockney, Francis Bacon, Lucian Freud, Doriginality and liberal sociability. Nothing have an unfathomable culture that is and a strangely their identity and place within their own GShe was a true visionary, a modern Lagerfeld in this innovative volume, Frank Auerbach, Howard Hodgkin and R.B. Kitaj. could be further from the truth. The impenetrable to outsiders, despite the emotional and moving community. Qualities mostly lacking in woman before the phrase was invented. the resonance between archive and Setting up in London’s Holborn and with a sister office in uniformity and a slavish desire to fit in many linguists and anthropologists that the over developed, over affluent West. Her clothes, introduced after World War I, contemporary photography becomes New York, Neurath launched ten titles in his first season When Walter’s wife, Eva Neurath, died in 1999 at 91-years has resulted in a facile modern society have studied their ways and who could experience’ It is a cliché to talk about the dignity of with their youthful ease and simple sharp, vibrant and telling. The key in 1950. English Cathedrals was an immediate hit and old, the last link with the old regime was broken. Having desperate to adopt the mores of the only ever scratch the surface. The gypsy the noble peasant but in all these sportive confidence, redefined fashion elements of Chanel’s style – the stayed in print until 1971; with photographs by Martin fled the Berlin Nazis with her then husband in 1939 to common herd. This all-pervading attitude clans of Eastern Europe (Cikáni in Czech) he photographed the infamous Soviet images the Roma are proud, unbowed for a generation more used to the 1 Willy Rizzo aforementioned little black dress, plus Hürlimann, a Swiss photographer who went on to seek refuge in London, Eva duly married Walter and has a reverse side –a damning have enjoyed mixed fortunes postwar, invasion of Prague, using the initials P. P. and utterly self-contained – a people constraints of corsets, fuss and frills. Her Gabrielle Chanel with her models for jersey and tweed (when they were collaborate on many subsequent titles for T&H. By 1955, they had co-founded T&H together, where she was a disrespect for anyone not perceived as governments tried to ameliorate their (Prague photographer). He was subse- who might be beaten down but will liberated lifestyle –a huge work ethic, Paris Match 1959 purely masculine fabrics), her camellia the company had 144 titles in print and was growing dominating presence in the art department. She became as wearing the same war paint. The murderous treatment by the Nazis quently (anonymously) awarded the never be defeated. Koudelka had a independence and numerous lovers – emblem, along with baroque exponentially, requiring a move to Bloomsbury. chairman on his early death in 1967. social unrest in European communities whilst appeasing local communities who Overseas Press Club’s Robert Capa Gold unique access to his subjects, unlikely was unusual, even for the times. Her ‘The woman who hasn’t at least one inspirations and androgynous chic – Ensconced in their new premises, T&H launched what With Thomas Neurath at the helm, international has been well documented and the remained anti-gypsy in outlook. Medal for these photographs. Koudelka to be duplicated today, so bad are influence –she invented the little black Chanel is hopelessly out of fashion... is revealed in 11 succinct chapters. was to become one of the most famous and continuing expansion continued apace, an office in Melbourne population is fragmenting in a way left Czechoslovakia for political asylum relations between the Roma dress, costume jewellery, and made This season the name Chanel is on the Comparing the original forms of these popular series: The World of Art. Appearing in 1958, these (1970); the New York company, which had closed in more familiar to Baghdad than London In the 1960’s, the celebrated Czech in 1970 and then joined the Magnum communities and the mainstream suntans fashionable –has never waned lips of every buyer,’ they chirped. As a enduring trademarks to their evolution pocket size editions with the characteristic black spines 1953, was re-established in 1976 as Thames & Hudson or Paris – but without historic photographer, Josef Koudelka, made agency. In 1975, the first edition of population of Europe. And as such, this and 21st century fashionistas the world result, Chanel’s innovative style has been over the years and up to the present were an immediate hit and today over 300 titles have Inc.; offices in Paris (1989, Éditions Thames & Hudson); antecedents to make it anything other a series of images of the gypsy Gypsies was published (by Delpire is a precious archival document and over clamour for the trademark looks consistently documented by the most day, and letting the vocabulary of been issued, very many still in print. Aimed at the Singapore (1995) and Hong Kong (1997). Today, Thames than mere unctuous tribalism. settlements of East Slovakia, now Editeur, Paris; originally designed by a strangely emotional and moving their grandmothers’ adored. influential of contemporary photographers, Chanel's style speak for itself, Gautier educated and interested reader, these little illustrated & Hudson employs some 200 people worldwide and is termed Roma communities. Koudelka, a Milan Kopriva) comprising of 60 images, experience. If it has any parallels, it throughout her lifetime and well beyond. diligently separates fact from fiction gems offered a succinct and jargon free education in all still regarded as a forward thinking publisher on subjects This is not a failing gypsies have. former aeronautical engineer, turned to with an essay by the Roma expert, Will would be with Roman Vishniac’s So, it is timely, even fateful, that the and presents a highly detailed and aspects of the visual arts, written by authoritative voices as diverse as art, photography, architecture, graphics, They have dwelt amidst Europeans photography in the late 1960’s. In 1968, Guy, who has written an updated text Vanished World, that poignant record emergence of Chanel as a fashion force Chanel continued working until her death informative pictorial biography on the on the subject in hand. A Concise History of Painting: three-dimensional design (industrial, furniture, and for more than 600 years, having left for this new revision. Guy is currently a of Russia’s Jewish shtetls immediately majeure, coincided with the evolution of in 1971, aged 87, and the label limped legend that is Coco Chanel, doyenne From Giotto to Cézanne by Michael Levey, originally product), gardens, fashion and textiles, archaeology, northern India around 1000 AD and research fellow in sociology at the prior to the Nazi Holocaust. fashion photography. Her largely black on until 1982, when couturier Karl of French haute-couture. published in 1962, is an evergreen classic. Other series, history, travel, lifestyle and interiors, and popular culture. reaching Europe sometime in the 14th University of Bristol. The new edition now and white, simple yet dramatic, early Lagerfeld took over the helm. Coming such as Ancient People & Places, and Great Civilizations, century. The disparate bands of gypsies has 109 photographs taken between garments were in perfect harmony with from the successful house of Chloe, he 1. Karl Lagerfeld is also a photographer attracted authors with international reputations in the At the new millennium, T&H relocated to a custom-designed (bohémien in French) are bound by this 1962 and 1971 in the former the optical limitations of contemporary brought with him an energy and vision fields of art and academia. Not that T&H were ever space (architect John McAslan) in High Holborn, and common heritage and the work skills Czechoslovakia, Romania, Hungary, KOUDELKA GYPSIES camera technology. that resulted in Chanel turning full circle, CHANEL: ‘stuffy’, but it might be fairly said that not a few today remains true to its tradition of compelling books, that go with a nomadic lifestyle: begging, France and Spain. Josef Koudelka back to the provocative and free-spirited THE VOCABULARY eyebrows were raised when they issued a book in 1984 created and printed to the highest quality, at affordable making, trading, thieving, magic and Text by Will Guy Fashion photography made its first designs of earlier times. Thanks to his OF STYLE on what was then regarded by many as mere vandalism: prices. A move that completed the circle rather neatly. fortune telling. Koudelka shows a collection of gypsy Thames & Hudson appearance in French magazines such ingenious interpretation of Chanel’s Jerome Gautier Subway Art, the first documentation of graffiti art. images that give some insight to the Hb. 192pp. as La Mode and Vogue in the early 20th whole fashion philosophy, the label is Thames & Hudson It remained continuously in print for 25 years until the LINKS Within a hundred years of integration closed world of an ethnic minority. Living 109 quadritone illus. century. And by 1915, Harper’s Bazaar now as revered and successful as in its Hb. 304 pp. 209 illus. enlarged anniversary edition of 2009. thamesandhudson.com the status of gypsies changed from 1 Romania 1968 in what by ordinary standards would be ISBN: 978-0500544020 was raving over Chanel’s designs: founder’s heyday. ISBN: 978-0500515815

18 www.f22magazine.com www.f22magazine.com 19 1 William Eckersley Bridge Over Canal with Bright Light. E15

JOB OPPORTUNITIES STATE/f22 Magazines are expanding: 1 Scot Sothern Jane ca. 1988 In 2012 we are looking for writers, interns and administration staff. If you are an original mind BEGIN WITH A BANG get more details at www. state-media.com/jobs HE FIRST BOOK from Gregory The DRKRM Gallery in Los Angeles Barker and Rachel Stanley has exhibited the Low Life photos (1986- its feet placed firmly in the 1990) to a general acclaim in April 2010, gonzo journalism precinct of and this created a way into Sothern’s Tthe late lamented Hunter S. Thompson. other works, including Drive by Shooting, 1 William Eckersley Elevated View Over Train Station. SE1 A photo essay by [presumed] acolyte, the Religious Cults series and Bedouin Scot Sothern, aims for the solar plexus Tribes in Saudi Arabia. It was the sort of Forget about of good taste and refined living. Sothern exposure he needed, often noting: introduces the avid reader to the flip side ‘My biggest fear is that I'll get all my SILENT NIGHTS e-books, young of Los Angeles glamour with a hands-on recognition and accolades after I'm dead. tour of street prostitutes –an experience That would be fucked up’. The texts that ILLIAM ECKERSLEY’s third and Alexander Shields in 2006, and publishers are light years from that portrayed by the accompany many of the images come book is a personal journey their books are produced to the highest movie, Pretty Woman. with a writer’s license and Sothern with a rare attention to detail specifications and print quality. still using ink admits to adding most of them to provide (such precision is an Dark City is a London that will be totally Sothern is clearly a complex character. ‘mood and feeling’. Nevertheless, the Wexpensive luxury for most independent unfamiliar to the majority of its residents, and paper. Keen to assert his Sam Spade tough guy array of girls and pretend girls provoke publishers). Dark City is another view of but the individual images are studies in credentials, he is at the same time well an empathy for lives wasted from the off. London, at that time of night when even the ethereal; an other-world of differing We specialise in out of print, second-hand and rare books on informed about photography and the But the whores all have a story and – the drunks have gone home, when the time values and perspectives –and, 20th Century art, especially Modern British art. photographer’s art. Sothern has spent a surprisingly –had no qualms about night workers are safely dozing in some occasionally, beauty. Available through marcus campbell art books lifetime trying to make headway as a being photographed. As Sothern secret corner and the great metropolis the Stucco Press website and selected photographer, author and painter and points out, when they saw the camera, seems all but abandoned. bookstores. We frequently acquire libraries and collections and undertake despite the broken nose jargon, he they expected it. Now staring at old age comes over as a decent guy – mainly and incapacitated for some time by a A city devoid of people takes on a surreal archival work and valuations. because he is self depreciatingly motorcycle accident, Sothern deserves air, but unlike the countryside, is never unabashed about admitting his own a hearing, and if these re-visited works free from artificial light effects. Eckersley shortcomings and sallies into petty on prostitution can open the doors to himself notes: ‘London tends to be Located opposite the main entrance to Tate Modern. crime early on in life. an enthusiastic new audience, then it covered by clouds, so daylight is flat, is a work well done. This limited edition diffused and grey. At night however, you issue from Stanley Barker will doubtless find sharp areas of light and shade in 43 Holland Street London SE1 9JR be a valuable collector’s item in years sometimes sickly colour temperatures to come if Sothern becomes a cult from all the different light sources T +44 (0) 20 7261 0111 F +44 (0) 20 7261 0129 Open 10.30 - 18.30 Monday to Saturday and 12.00 - 18.00 on Sunday figure to match William S. Burroughs or (sodium, halogen, fluorescent, etc)’. [email protected] www.marcuscampbell.co.uk Danny Lyon. Originally, Eckersley used digital imaging DARK CITY but after six months revisited all the Photos by William Eckersley LOW LIFE locations and reshot on large format Foreword by Sukhdev Sandhu Scot Sothern before extending the scope of his project Stucco Press Stanley Barker Publishing –only calling it a day when ‘Fuji stopped Hb. 208 pp. 160 colour & 56 b/w photos Pb. 100pp. 48 Mono Photos £25 producing its tungsten-balanced 5x4 film’. Edition of 1000            ISBN 978-0-956992208 The Stucco Press was set up by St. ISBN 978-0-955314322     stanleybarker.com Martin’s graduates, William Eckersley stuccopress.com

ARCUS REICHERT’s book On the surface this gallery of images writing (her last book, Passing Strange, conclusions, for the emotions captured is a labour of love –literally of MacLeod, many nude, many uncom- was published by Random House in in these pictures are complex and TROUBLE –for it is a photographic promisingly stark, is a husband’s tribute 2002). Accentuated by the ‘split screen’ at once personal. It is a courageous •       homage to his life-long muse, to years of intimacy. But, reversely it is design that juxtaposes early and late collaboration and a worthy addition Mcompanion, friend and wife, the writer also a woman’s diary, a personal record photographs alongside each other, the to the steady output of this little •      & STRIFE and former model, Sally MacLeod. They of the passing of time and the erosion reader is forced into a contemplation independent art press. met when they were both 18 and, of future promises. From a coy young of the very real meaning of time and •  excluding a brief separation, have 18-year-old American girl looking into existence. worked and lived together since. Over the the lens with hope and ambition to a PORTRAIT OF THE ARTIST'S WIFE: years their creative juices have melded mature woman allowing that same lens Reichert –filmmaker, painter, writer PHOTOGRAPHS 1966/2011 into a unit that is self-supporting and to record a face careworn with age, and photographer–has consistently Marcus Reichert   !"#$%&''' self-referencing, strong enough to marked by the stresses of illness – documented his life and environment Introduction: Edward Rozzo weather the trials and tribulations that MacLeod is recuperating from a debilita- with words and images. This collection Ziggurat Books International (  ) * ( + approaching old age has thrown at them ting complaint that temporarily affected of 90 images is a meditation on life, art Pb. 104pp. 2 mono/89 col. Illus. and the perils of an expatriate life. her sight –which has inhibited her and love that, inevitably, can draw no ISBN: 978-0-956657947

www.f22magazine.com 21 PLACES HIDDEN GEMS GALA AUCTION

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4 USEFUL LINKS Contact Editorial [email protected] Back Issues (free pdf download) www.state-media.com/downloads 5 6 Advertising Rates (pdf download) www.state-media.com Advertising Enquiry [email protected] Job Opportunities Photographs Gallery Work for us in 2012 New gallery at the V&A now open www.state-media.com/jobs 7 Admission Free Get This Magazine By Post www.state-media.com/by-post Victoria and Albert Museum www.vam.ac.uk u South Kensington/Knightsbridge TO STOCK THIS MAGAZINE OR TO RECOMMEND A SUITABLE VENUE PLEASE CONTACT JULIE MILNE: [email protected]

Julia Margaret Cameron (1815–79), Circe, About 1865, Albumen print

1 Hiddens Gems supremo, Alistair Morrison, with Hollywood star, Gillian Anderson 2 Terry O’Neill’s 5 Aiden Sullivan (Vice President, Getty Images) photographers Terry O’Neill & John Stoddart sole copy portrait of Amy Winehouse was a highlight of the Gala auction 3 One time Monty Python 6 The hilarious moment Cilla Black accidentally bought the photograph, Wonderful Tonight, by her friend Visions of Tattoo Art animator and film director, Terry Gilliam (here to present Michael Birt’s photograph of Holliday Grainger) Patti Boyd (on left) after teasing the bidding upwards 7 Christie’s Head of Contemporary Art, 4 and friend Pink Floyd’s Nick Mason introduces John Swannell while host, Robert Powell, looks on Francis Outred, selling John Swannell’s elegant study, Nude: Julienne Davis TATTOO IN JAPAN KALINGA TATTOO BLACK TATTOO ART 25 PHOTOGRAPHERS, 1 LOCATION,

82,000 POUNDS LATINO ART COLLECTION – Tattoo Inspired Chicano, Maya, Alistair Morrison’s inspired Hidden Gems project raises funds for disabled children’s charity Aztec and Mexican Styles is a globally unique compilation of motifs from the ambiance of Latin American culture. Life and HE RECENTLY renamed theatrical Jenny Agutter, Suggs, Theo Stevenson, NOTES CHINESE TATTOO ART death are the leitmotifs of these charitable organisation, Variety(1), Tyger Drew-Honey, Pauline Collins, 1. Variety – the Children’s Charity, formerly powerful Latino-inspired pic- This art book is the world’s first com- collaborated with society John Alderton, Emma Forbes, Tom Conti Variety Club of Great Britain. torial creations: art from Mi Vida prehensive documentation of the art Loca (My Crazy Life) to the photographer, Alistair Morrison, and Eddie Kidd – before being auctioned 2. Sir Gilbert Scott's 1866 decorative of tattooing in China and Taiwan. Its Día de los Muertos (Day of the to realise his inspired fund- by Christie’s Francis Outred. So acute were masterpiece, the Midland Grand Hotel fascinating images exemplify the artful Dead), plus lowriders and raising project, Hidden Gems. Morrison’s powers of persuasion that he (allegedly inspired by Barry and Pugin) has diversity of Chinese tattooing and its religious iconography. common motifs, which are largely in- Calling on his personal list of eminent even got Jesus to host the evening –aka now re-opened as the St Pancras Renaissance BLACK & GREY TATTOO 1 BLACK & GREY TATTOO 1-3(set) COLOR TATTOO ART T spired by ancient myths and legends. London Hotel. photographer friends, 25 artists took the actor Robert Powell. During pauses in the The meanings behind many of these fabulously eccentric location of the St marathon auctioneering feat, guests were motifs are explored in an illustrated Alistair Morrison is one of the UK leading (2) chapter that delves into their symbo- Pancras Renaissance London Hotel unexpectedly entertained by cellist celebrity photographers with 82 photographs 1 lism, history and mythology. Chinese The 25 leading photographers: Pattie Boyd; to create an image (edition of 5 only) to Matthew Barley, ballerina Cindy Jourdain, in the National Portrait Gallery, numerous Michael Birt; Zoe Buckman; Alwyn Coates; tattoo artists have outstandingly be auctioned in aid of sick children. Vintage Trouble and pop-up opera singers private collections, and on permanent display developed their own unique style and Jillian Edelstein; Ken Griffiths; Elisabeth Hoff; from Incognito. in the Muse Gallery –housed in a Victorian Cambridge Alexander; Barry Lategan; expression. Many of the tattooists Gothic mansion near Windsor. presented in the book are also gifted Peter Lavery; Mary McCartney; Tony Mcgee; Sponsored by BGC Partners Inc. draftsmen: their dynamic sketches Alistair Morrison; Terry O’Neill; Clare Park; Steve (a leading global intermediary to the As well as the photos, the special limited of dragons, tigers, lotus blossoms, Pyke; Sheila Rock; Olivia Rose vs Stone & Spear; wholesale financial market) each edition book will be available for purchase serpents, demons and so much more Amanda Searle; Tom Stanworth; Tom Stoddart; photograph was personally introduced at the price of £40 in support of Variety, LINKS are inspiring. James Stroud; John Swannell; Andy Teare; by a celebrity guest –including Gillian the Children's Charity. alistairmorrison.com John Thornton. varietyclub.org.uk/events/232 Anderson, David Morrisey, Reece Ritchie, EDITION REUSS tattoo art books are available in all UK bookshops, online or at www.edition-reuss.de

22 www.f22magazine.com ** Offer not applicable to Olympus E-PL1. ** Offer le, referring to E-P3, Olympus Inhouse Test, June 2011. to E-P3, Olympus Inhouse Test, le, referring * Data on fi

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