Old World Lace
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Palmetto Tatters Guild Glossary of Tatting Terms (Not All Inclusive!)
Palmetto Tatters Guild Glossary of Tatting Terms (not all inclusive!) Tat Days Written * or or To denote repeating lines of a pattern. Example: Rep directions or # or § from * 7 times & ( ) Eg. R: 5 + 5 – 5 – 5 (last P of prev R). Modern B Bead (Also see other bead notation below) notation BTS Bare Thread Space B or +B Put bead on picot before joining BBB B or BBB|B Three beads on knotting thread, and one bead on core thread Ch Chain ^ Construction picot or very small picot CTM Continuous Thread Method D Dimple: i.e. 1st Half Double Stitch X4, 2nd Half Double Stitch X4 dds or { } daisy double stitch DNRW DO NOT Reverse Work DS Double Stitch DP Down Picot: 2 of 1st HS, P, 2 of 2nd HS DPB Down Picot with a Bead: 2 of 1st HS, B, 2 of 2nd HS HMSR Half Moon Split Ring: Fold the second half of the Split Ring inward before closing so that the second side and first side arch in the same direction HR Half Ring: A ring which is only partially closed, so it looks like half of a ring 1st HS First Half of Double Stitch 2nd HS Second Half of Double Stitch JK Josephine Knot (Ring made of only the 1st Half of Double Stitch OR only the 2nd Half of Double Stitch) LJ or Sh+ or SLJ Lock Join or Shuttle join or Shuttle Lock Join LPPCh Last Picot of Previous Chain LPPR Last Picot of Previous Ring LS Lock Stitch: First Half of DS is NOT flipped, Second Half is flipped, as usual LCh Make a series of Lock Stitches to form a Lock Chain MP or FP Mock Picot or False Picot MR Maltese Ring Pearl Ch Chain made with pearl tatting technique (picots on both sides of the chain, made using three threads) P or - Picot Page 1 of 4 PLJ or ‘PULLED LOOP’ join or ‘PULLED LOCK’ join since it is actually a lock join made after placing thread under a finished ring and pulling this thread through a picot. -
Lacemaking? No Way! You Have to Buy a Bunch of Equipme
Lacis Have you ever heard this (or said it): “Lacemaking? No way! You have to buy a bunch of equipment, learn a thousand stitches, and it takes a month of eyestrain to produce just an inch of lace!” How about this? “Handmade lace isn’t worth it; it tears up too easily, and it can’t be washed.” Or the Kiss of Death: “Lace isn’t appropriate to my time period.” Nonsense! What would you say if I told you that, for less than $20, and a weekend’s work, even a child can produce lace that is attractive and versatile, can survive repeated trips through the washing machine, and is appropriate for at least late 12th century through end of Period? Lacis is that lace. Lacis (also known as darned netting, filet lace, mezzo mandolino, and Filet Italien) is one of the oldest known lacemaking techniques. Examples of the netting itself – which even the most hardened Viking would recognize as simple fishnet -- has been found in ancient Egyptian tombs. Fine netting, delicately darned, have been found in sites dating back to the earliest days of the 14th century. It is mentioned specifically in the Ancrin Riwle (a novice nun’s ‘handbook,’ c. 1301), wherein the novice is admonished not to spend all her time netting, but to turn her hand to charitable works. Figure 1 pattern for bookmark Lacis is simply a net, such as fishnet, that has patterns darned into it. It comes in two basic categories, which categorize the kind of net used. Mondano is classic fishnet, a knotted netting where a shuttle and mesh gauge is used to make link loops together to form the net. -
NEEDLE LACES Battenberg, Point & Reticella Including Princess Lace 3Rd Edition
NEEDLE LACES BATTENBERG, POINT & RETICELLA INCLUDING PRINCESS LACE 3RD EDITION EDITED BY JULES & KAETHE KLIOT LACIS PUBLICATIONS BERKELEY, CA 94703 PREFACE The great and increasing interest felt throughout the country in the subject of LACE MAKING has led to the preparation of the present work. The Editor has drawn freely from all sources of information, and has availed himself of the suggestions of the best lace-makers. The object of this little volume is to afford plain, practical directions by means of which any lady may become possessed of beautiful specimens of Modern Lace Work by a very slight expenditure of time and patience. The moderate cost of materials and the beauty and value of the articles produced are destined to confer on lace making a lasting popularity. from “MANUAL FOR LACE MAKING” 1878 NEEDLE LACES BATTENBERG, POINT & RETICELLA INLUDING PRINCESS LACE True Battenberg lace can be distinguished from the later laces CONTENTS by the buttonholed bars, also called Raleigh bars. The other contemporary forms of tape lace use the Sorrento or twisted thread bar as the connecting element. Renaissance Lace is INTRODUCTION 3 the most common name used to refer to tape lace using these BATTENBERG AND POINT LACE 6 simpler stitches. Stitches 7 Designs 38 The earliest product of machine made lace was tulle or the PRINCESS LACE 44 RETICELLA LACE 46 net which was incorporated in both the appliqued hand BATTENBERG LACE PATTERNS 54 made laces and later the elaborate Leavers laces. It would not be long before the narrow tapes, in fancier versions, would be combined with this tulle to create a popular form INTRODUCTION of tape lace, Princess Lace, which became and remains the present incarnation of Belgian Lace, combining machine This book is a republication of portions of several manuals made tapes and motifs, hand applied to machine made tulle printed between 1878 and 1938 dealing with varieties of and embellished with net embroidery. -
Bobbin Lace You Need a Pattern Known As a Pricking
“Dressing” a Lace Pillow © Jean Leader 2014 pricking pin-cushion this edge should be a selvage if possible — the other edges lace in progress should be hemmed. cover cloth between bobbins and lower part of pricking cover cloth ready to cover pillow when not in use The pillow, a square or round piece of polystyrene (preferably high density) about 40 cm (16 in) across and 5 cm (2 in) thick, should be covered with a firmly woven dark cotton material. Avoid synthetic materials as these will attract dust and fluff. Cut a piece of material so that it is about 8-10 cm (3-4 in) wider than the pillow all round. Make a hem (with an opening) round the edge and thread either tape or elastic through it. Fit the cover over the pillow and pull the tape or elastic tight. (If you’re in a hurry just pin the cover in place.) This cover should be removed and washed occasionally. You will also need at least two cover cloths about 40 cm (16 in) square made of the same sort of material as the cover (they should be hemmed so no bits of thread can catch in the lace). One of these is placed over the lower part of the pricking and the bobbins lie on top of it. The other cloth is placed over the whole pillow when it is not in use so that the lace you’re working on stays clean. Making a Pricking In order to make bobbin lace you need a pattern known as a pricking. -
Catalogue of the Famous Blackborne Museum Collection of Laces
'hladchorvS' The Famous Blackbome Collection The American Art Galleries Madison Square South New York j J ( o # I -legislation. BLACKB ORNE LA CE SALE. Metropolitan Museum Anxious to Acquire Rare Collection. ' The sale of laces by order of Vitail Benguiat at the American Art Galleries began j-esterday afternoon with low prices ranging from .$2 up. The sale will be continued to-day and to-morrow, when the famous Blackborne collection mil be sold, the entire 600 odd pieces In one lot. This collection, which was be- gun by the father of Arthur Blackborne In IS-W and ^ contmued by the son, shows the course of lace making for over 4(Xi ye^rs. It is valued at from .?40,fX)0 to $oO,0()0. It is a museum collection, and the Metropolitan Art Museum of this city would like to acciuire it, but hasnt the funds available. ' " With the addition of these laces the Metropolitan would probably have the finest collection of laces in the world," said the museum's lace authority, who has been studying the Blackborne laces since the collection opened, yesterday. " and there would be enough of much of it for the Washington and" Boston Mu- seums as well as our own. We have now a collection of lace that is probablv pqual to that of any in the world, "though other museums have better examples of some pieces than we have." Yesterday's sale brought SI. .350. ' ""• « mmov ON FREE VIEW AT THE AMERICAN ART GALLERIES MADISON SQUARE SOUTH, NEW YORK FROM SATURDAY, DECEMBER FIFTH UNTIL THE DATE OF SALE, INCLUSIVE THE FAMOUS ARTHUR BLACKBORNE COLLECTION TO BE SOLD ON THURSDAY, FRIDAY AND SATURDAY AFTERNOONS December 10th, 11th and 12th BEGINNING EACH AFTERNOON AT 2.30 o'CLOCK CATALOGUE OF THE FAMOUS BLACKBORNE Museum Collection of Laces BEAUTIFUL OLD TEXTILES HISTORICAL COSTUMES ANTIQUE JEWELRY AND FANS EXTRAORDINARY REGAL LACES RICH EMBROIDERIES ECCLESIASTICAL VESTMENTS AND OTHER INTERESTING OBJECTS OWNED BY AND TO BE SOLD BY ORDER OF MR. -
Powerhouse Museum Lace Collection: Glossary of Terms Used in the Documentation – Blue Files and Collection Notebooks
Book Appendix Glossary 12-02 Powerhouse Museum Lace Collection: Glossary of terms used in the documentation – Blue files and collection notebooks. Rosemary Shepherd: 1983 to 2003 The following references were used in the documentation. For needle laces: Therese de Dillmont, The Complete Encyclopaedia of Needlework, Running Press reprint, Philadelphia, 1971 For bobbin laces: Bridget M Cook and Geraldine Stott, The Book of Bobbin Lace Stitches, A H & A W Reed, Sydney, 1980 The principal historical reference: Santina Levey, Lace a History, Victoria and Albert Museum and W H Maney, Leeds, 1983 In compiling the glossary reference was also made to Alexandra Stillwell’s Illustrated dictionary of lacemaking, Cassell, London 1996 General lace and lacemaking terms A border, flounce or edging is a length of lace with one shaped edge (headside) and one straight edge (footside). The headside shaping may be as insignificant as a straight or undulating line of picots, or as pronounced as deep ‘van Dyke’ scallops. ‘Border’ is used for laces to 100mm and ‘flounce’ for laces wider than 100 mm and these are the terms used in the documentation of the Powerhouse collection. The term ‘lace edging’ is often used elsewhere instead of border, for very narrow laces. An insertion is usually a length of lace with two straight edges (footsides) which are stitched directly onto the mounting fabric, the fabric then being cut away behind the lace. Ocasionally lace insertions are shaped (for example, square or triangular motifs for use on household linen) in which case they are entirely enclosed by a footside. See also ‘panel’ and ‘engrelure’ A lace panel is usually has finished edges, enclosing a specially designed motif. -
Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace Identification
Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace DATS in partnership with the V&A DATS DRESS AND TEXTILE SPECIALISTS 1 Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace Text copyright © Jeremy Farrell, 2007 Image copyrights as specified in each section. This information pack has been produced to accompany a one-day workshop of the same name held at The Museum of Costume and Textiles, Nottingham on 21st February 2008. The workshop is one of three produced in collaboration between DATS and the V&A, funded by the Renaissance Subject Specialist Network Implementation Grant Programme, administered by the MLA. The purpose of the workshops is to enable participants to improve the documentation and interpretation of collections and make them accessible to the widest audiences. Participants will have the chance to study objects at first hand to help increase their confidence in identifying textile materials and techniques. This information pack is intended as a means of sharing the knowledge communicated in the workshops with colleagues and the public. Other workshops / information packs in the series: Identifying Textile Types and Weaves 1750 -1950 Identifying Printed Textiles in Dress 1740-1890 Front cover image: Detail of a triangular shawl of white cotton Pusher lace made by William Vickers of Nottingham, 1870. The Pusher machine cannot put in the outline which has to be put in by hand or by embroidering machine. The outline here was put in by hand by a woman in Youlgreave, Derbyshire. (NCM 1912-13 © Nottingham City Museums) 2 Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace Contents Page 1. List of illustrations 1 2. Introduction 3 3. The main types of hand and machine lace 5 4. -
Fashion in Paris; the Various Phases of Feminine Taste and Aesthetics from 1797 to 1897
EX LIBRIS Cooper Union Museum for the Arts of Decoration GIVEN BY The Hospital Book and News Socle IN 1900 FASHION IN PARIS THE VARIOUS PHASES OF FEMININE TASTE AND ESTHETICS FROM 1797 TO 1897=^ By OCTAVE UZANNE ^ from the French by LADY MARY LOYD ^ WITH ONE HUNDRED HAND- COLOURED PLATES fc? TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS BY FRANCOIS COURBOIN LONDON : WILLIAM HEINEMANN NEW YORK: CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS MDCCCXCVIII (pr V All rights reserved CHAP. PAGE I. The Close of the Eighteenth Century ... i Licentiousness of Dress and Habits under the Directory of the Nineteenth II. The Dawn Century . 23 The Fair Sex in the Tear VIII First Empire III. Under the ...... +5 Feminine Splendour in Court and City IV. Dress, Drawing - rooms, and Society under the Restoration ....... 65 1815-1825 V. The Fair Parisian in 1830 ..... 85 Manners, Customs, and Refme?nent of the Belles of the Romantic Period VI. Fashion and Fashion's Votaries, from 1840 to 1850 103 VII. Fashion's Panorama in 1850 . 115 The Tapageuses and the Myst'erieuses in under VIII. Life Paris the Second Empire . .127 Leaders of the Gay World, and Cocodettes IX. The Fair Sex and Fashions in General from 1870 till 1880 ....... 147 X. The Parisian, as She is . .165 Her Psychology, Her Tastes, Her Dress MM. kmmi X<3 INTRODUCTION he compilation of a complete bibliography, even the most concise, of the works devoted to the subject of Costume, T and to the incessant changes of Fashion at every period, and in every country, in the world, would be a considerable undertaking—a work worthy of such learning as dwelt in the monasteries of the sixteenth century. -
Techniques Represented in Each Pattern
(updated) November 12, 2020 Dear Customer: Thank you for requesting information about my lace instruction and supply business. If you have any questions about the supplies listed on the following pages, let me use my 36 years of lacemaking experience to help you in your selections. My stock is expanding and changing daily, so if you don't see something you want please ask. It would be my pleasure to send promotional materials on any of the items you have questions about. Call us at (607) 277-0498 or visit our web page at: http://www.vansciverbobbinlace.com We would be delighted to hear from you at our email address [email protected]. All our orders go two day priority service. Feel free to telephone, email ([email protected]) or mail in your order. Orders for supplies will be filled immediately and will include a free catalogue update. Please include an 8% ($7.50 minimum to 1 lb., $10.50 over 1 lbs.-$12.00 maximum except for pillows and stands which are shipped at cost) of the total order to cover postage and packaging. New York State residents add sales tax applicable to your locality. Payment is by check, money order or credit card (VISA, MASTERCARD, DISCOVER) in US dollars. If you are looking for a teacher keep me in mind! I teach courses at all levels in Torchon, Bedfordshire, Lester, Honiton, Bucks Point lace, Russian and more! I am happy to tailor workshops to suit your needs. Check for scheduled workshops on the page facing the order form. -
The Newsletter for the Principality of Cynagua, Kingdom of the West—May Coronet (2017)
Cover Photo Credit To: Ghislaine d'Auxerre. The Newsletter for the Principality of Cynagua, Kingdom of the West—May Coronet (2017) 2 The Vox This is a list of Officers who need a deputy or a successor. Please consider volunteering; it’s a lot of fun and a great way to keep Our Principality going. Please Contact the Officers directly for more information details on how to contact them can be found in regnum at the back of the Vox. Arts & Sciences: Deputy Chronicler: Deputy Constable: Successor/Deputy Copper Spoon: Successor ASAP Lists: Deputy/Successor Minister of the Bow: Successor/Deputy Seneschal: Deputy Regalia: Deputy Youth Point Minister: Successor/Deputy ASAP Needleworker’s Guild: Successor/Deputy (see Michaela or Clarice for details) The Vox 3 From the Prince and Princess of Cynagua Greetings unto Cynagua, We welcome you to our Coronet tourney. Saturday will be filled with games and classes on the Eric, followed by a large potluck. We would love it if everyone would join us and bring a dish to share. Then please join us for an evening of fun, dancing and merry making at the Casbah. Our gracious List Mistress has agreed to open the lists on Saturday afternoon for two hours, then reopen on Sunday at 8:00 am and close at 10:00 am sharp. Sunday shall be the day of the Coronet Tourney. Starting with fourth round you may not repeat the same weapon style two rounds in a row. This is to encourage fighters to use more than just one style of fighting. -
Caste Eng Crè Log
SUMARI 7 PREÀMBUL Neus Ribas i Eulàlia Morral 8 L ’EXPOSICIÓ ITINERANT 28 LA MEMÒRIA DELS TELERS: ELS MOSTRARIS TÈXTILS Sílvia Carbonell Basté 54 LÚA IND STRIA tèXTIL A CATALUNYA TEVIS A D S DE LA INFORMACIÓ ESTADÍSTICA Jordi Maluquer de Motes 70 ESLS FON DELS MUSEUS COM A EINA INDISPENSABLE PER ALS DISSENYADORS Dra. Sílvia Rosés Castellsaguer 84 L A I+D EN EL SECTOR tèXTIL. ESTAT ACTUAL, TENDènCIES Ariadna Detrell / Sergi Artigas 97 AnnEXOS TRADUCCIÓN AL CASTELLANO ENGLISH TRANSLATION PREÀMBUL Neus Ribas i Eulàlia Morral Al llarg d’aquest procés de recollida i documentació que hem anat fent, ens hem adonat que a vegades arribà- vem tard, perquè durant o després del tancament de les empreses –ja fos per la crisi o per trasllat– s’havien llen- çat molts mostraris, en bona part perquè no se’ls con- sidera una documentació interessant o valuosa. També urant un llarg període, hem pogut constatar que moltes empreses conserven a Catalunya el tèxtil ha estat la indústria, i les caracte- aquesta informació en pèssimes condicions i controla- rístiques físiques i socials del nostre país no es poden des per persones, generalment d’edat avançada, que són entendre sense tenir en compte aquest fet; però tot can- els únics que tenen els coneixements indispensables per via molt de pressa. Les modificacionsD urbanístiques de a la correcta identificació i interpretació d’aquests ob- les poblacions, la diversificació de la indústria i el relleu jectes. Finalment, hi ha empreses i persones conscients generacional han anat desdibuixant la memòria fins al del valor d’aquest patrimoni, que el conserven o fins i tot punt que els propis habitants de ciutats que van ser de realitzen els tràmits necessaris per donar-los als equipa- referència obligada per al sector tèxtil fins als anys se- ments museístics que els podem conservar, documentar tanta sovint desconeixen aquest fet, o en tenen una no- i difondre. -
Beautiful Contemporary Interpretations of Lace
Beautiful contemporary interpretations of Irish lace woven together for Interlace exhibition. Absolut Mode by Natalie B Coleman Make Good, Make Better by Saidhbhín Gibson National Craft Gallery, Kilkenny: 28th March – 7th May, 2014 Opening Event: Friday 28th March, 2014 www.nationalcraftgallery.ie "More than a luxury, lace was once central to Irish life, and even to survival. These makers look at lace’s almost magical properties." – Gemma Tipton, Interlace Exhibition Catalogue Interlace takes the history of lace as a starting point and creates a unique exhibition of work by 8 very different women, focusing on their contemporary interpretations of lace. The concept of the show developed and curated by the National Craft Gallery is to explore how traditional material culture creates a resonant source for contemporary practice. This is one of a series of exhibitions to take traditional or vernacular practice as a starting point. Each of the 8 participating artists tells her own individual story through her work and this exhibition offers an insight into how they have been influenced and inspired by our lace heritage to make everything from ravens to a wedding dress, from glass etchings to a celebration of the lace industry in Youghal, Co. Cork. Caroline Schofield Caroline studied textiles in NCAD and embroidery with City & Guilds. Currently working in Kilkenny, this summer she will be doing a residency in Grote Kerk Veere GKV in the Netherlands and showing in “Irish Wave” in Beijing. “In Ireland, lace families survived the famine of 1845/6 due to the foresight of those who introduced lace into their communities and the ability of these women to create beautiful work in very poor conditions.” Caroline Schofield In Greek mythology the God Odin had two ravens, Huginn meaning ‘thought’ and Muninn meaning ‘memory’.