FourFour WesternWestern GemsGems More great tours you can fit into your busy schedule

lright, my fellow touring cyclists, have on our travel plans? Clearly, we’re are you ready to hear how the staying closer to home. The Travel Industry United States compares with other of America claims that the average “plea- Anations in “average annual vacation time”? sure trip” (it’s not really long enough to call Below: Riding These statistics — so important to those of a “vacation”) dropped from 4.6 days in ’s Katy us who each year long to escape our work- 1988 to 3.8 days, ten years later. As a result, Trail takes you through many ing lives for a few weeks in the saddle — 55% of all U.S. travelers stay within 600 small towns, and come from The World Tourism Organiza- miles of home during their journeys. Our a ton of history. tion. I’ll warn you now they aren’t encour- beehive-active working population has aging. caused even the sun-and-fun-in-the- First, as Caribbean cruise lines to pay attention, scal- you might ing back their longer trips in favor of the have guessed, four- and five-day trips. There goes the come the fun- shuffleboard tournament. loving Italians, I complained about this business of a civilization busyness a year ago, suggested a wholesale thousands of social revolution, and for the meantime, years old that offered up the two-wheeled antidote of a has clearly few of my favorite weekend and week-long learned how to rides east of the Mississippi. With a nod enjoy life. Ital- toward geographic balance (not to mention ian workers the fact that I’m still waiting for the upris- have a whop- ing to begin) here are four of my favorite ping 42 days short routes in the West. of vacation each and every The Canadian Rockies year. Take that There's a certain thrill to pedaling in a all at once and, foreign country. We look more closely at adding week- our surroundings when we're away from ends, a rider home. Awakened from the doldrums of could stay in what is common to us, we notice all that's the saddle for different. The money is a funny color, the two solid local dress or speech or customs throw us Right: Taos months — more than enough time to begin off balance. And, being off balance, we Pueblo is the in the Alps and ride to sunny Sicily and watch the world around us with more care. longest continu- back. Fortunately, we Yanks can have a taste of ally inhabited Next come the strike-happy French, with foreign-country cycling without having to spot in North 37 days away from the office or factory. pop for flights across the seas. And if we America. Germany ranks third, with a very head north, to the civilized and cooler respectable 35, followed by Brazil (34), climes of western Canada, we don't even Britain (28), and Canada (26). The hard- have to learn another language. Which Left: Canada’s Ice- working Japanese, our former business role means we can read the newspapers and fields Parkway, models who, it was reported, had to be eavesdrop on the locals. between Banff and coerced to take time off, have, on average, But where does one go? Well, if you've Jasper, offers 25 days of vacation. And the United States? got the time, there's always the 5000-mile wide shoulders Well, we Americans come in last, with an Trans-Canada Highway. If you only have a and wider underwhelming half the days the Japanese week or two to spend, however, fix your scenery; Above: spend away from work. A measly 13. sights on the Icefields Parkway, a compara- The author’s off- road route in Col- Granted, when we add weekends and a tively minuscule 181 miles (293 kilometers) orado’s San Juan handful of holidays, our hours off look between Banff and Jasper, in the western Mountains somewhat better. But what effect does this province of Alberta. The mountains are includes 32,680 high, the highway shoulders are wide, the feet of elevation skies are blue almost every day, and the gain and loss. By Dennis Coello natives are friendly. What more could one

Adventure Cyclist • August 2000 want? Besides, every inch of your route is steep climbs. Even on the Icefields Park- traffic, this 225-mile-long rail-trail is for in two of the prettiest of Canada's 34 way there's one hump you won't forget — you. Tell your friends you’ll be spending national parks. Sunwapta Pass (6,675'). You won't find it your days in the saddle sandwiched Throughout your trip, you'll have the terribly tough unless you're a flatlander, for between a river and tall limestone bluffs, Continental Divide, in the form of the most of the eight-mile climb along the winding through wetlands, prairies, forests white-peaked Rockies, on your left. While North Saskatchewan River is gradual. The and rolling farm fields, and they’ll be envi- actually somewhat lower in elevation than final mile, however, takes you to the river's ous. Then tell them those miles are in Mis- is much of the same chain in the United source — a glacier that I would guess at souri, and the smiles will fade, as their States, they appear to be higher, because the roughly the size of the moon. And just as minds begin flashing on images of St. Louis tree line this far north is lower, leaving cold. urban blight, and Ozark backwoods bump- many of the mountainsides bare, jagged- Although you could do this ride in a kins. edged, and scree-sloped. Now, add blue long weekend, I’d suggest you take two “You’ll be riding along the Missouri meandering rivers to these sharp-sided weeks because of the fantastic hikes you’ll River?” they’ll ask, as they envision a wide, beauties, and deep green coniferous forests find close to camp, the mountain bike flat, slow-moving stream of brown mud. in the broad valleys, turquoise- and emer- routes that abound, and the sheer pleasure With maybe a dead catfish on the bank and ald-colored lakes higher up, massive glaci- of the quiet towns and friendly folks along a turkey vulture eyeing it from on-high. ers, and wild deer, elk, bear, and mountain the way. But don’t let these stereotypes deter you sheep and goats that sometimes stop traffic from paying the Katy a visit. A typical rail- For further information when crossing the road, and you won’t be trail with its crushed-stone surface (good for Banff National Park bored. fat and thin tires both), it’s anything but P.O. Box 900 And the riding? In a word — superb. In commonplace in terms of history. The trail Banff, Alberta, T0L 0C0 Canada most places, the shoulders on major high- begins in St. Charles, a small town on the (403) 762-1550 ways are as wide as a car lane. And when banks of the Missouri (and, during floods, www.worldweb.com/ParksCanada-Banff you're on narrower side roads, you'll find in the Missouri) 20-odd miles northwest of that, in general, the motorists up here are a Jasper National Park St. Louis. Yes, there’s a hideous McDon- kinder, gentler sort. Even the American dri- P.O. Box 10 ald's-and-malls-and-Holiday-Inn section vers are nicer than they are at home! Jasper, Alberta, T0E 1E0 Cana- near the interstate, but once you’re past that You will be doing some climbing, most- da (780) 852-6176 unfortunate introduction to so much of ly long gradual pulls, when on the main www.worldweb.com/ParksCanada- America these days, you’ll step easily into roads. And I do mean long, like the Jasper another, slower time. Push your bike along extremely moderate 26-mile grind over the lovely cobblestone streets of this 18th- Bow Summit (6,787'). But, anytime you century French town, enjoy lunch at Lewis decide to leave the main road up the valley Missouri’s Katy Trail and Clark's Public House (I suggest the at the base of the mountains, you'll have If you love to pedal, but hate riding in white chili), and think about Meriwether Lewis and William Clark stopping here in May of 1804 to savor their last taste of civi- lization before their two-year trip up the Missouri, and over the Rockies, to the Pacific and back. Santa Fe, Captain Clark described St. Charles in well known his journal: as a Mecca This Village Contns. about 100 houses, for art, is the the most of them small and indefferent and beginning about 450 inhabitents Chiefly French, point for the those people appear Pore, polite and har- author’s three-day monious. ride to Taos. They were so harmonious that they threw a ball for the captains and their men. A grand time was had by all, though too grand for one unfortunate soldier. A court- martial was held for John Collins, who was accused of "behaveing in an unbecomeing manner at the Ball last night." Found guilty as charged, his punishment was 50 lashes on his naked back. But then he'd caused trouble before, months before when the party was camped on the Illinois side of the Mississippi, across from St. Louis. Private Collins had shot and killed a farmer's pig and was busy roasting it on a spit when his sergeant passed by. It's a bear cub, Sarge, he claimed, unconvincingly. More lashes. A full 165 miles of the Katy Trail (a lin- ear state park, by the way) has been desig- nated as an official segment of the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail, making this the perfect place to lie in your tent at

Adventure Cyclist • August 2000 night, or linger over breakfast in a b&b, with a copy of the Captain’s journals. Or read up on Daniel Boone, whose grave is only minutes off your route. Civil War armies tramped these same riverside miles, as did so many German immigrants in the mid-19th century that the region is called the “Missouri Rhineland,” for the farms and wineries they established. You can slake The Katy Trail your thirst at the many local vineyards that takes you through remain. a natural land- If natural history is your preference, be scape with an obvious “human prepared for the gentle scenes of deep green imprint,” which, hardwood forests, of high limestone and the author points sandstone bluffs, of open prairie and wet- out, is still lovely. lands, and rich black-soil bottomlands. There are well-groomed fields whose wav- ing farmers, I've found, are surprisingly willing to stop and chat a while (it’s got to get boring on those tractors), and the ever- changing river scenes and skies all fill the eyes every bit as much as the set-aside nat- ural parks of the East and West. This is nature on human terms, with the human mountains that turn so red at sunset they're ground), welcome visitors, and patiently imprint obvious and, thankfully, still lovely. called the Sangre de Cristo (Blood of answer questions about their faith, their My greatest interest along the Katy is Christ). Leave the region to the south and attempts to maintain a traditional way of the history and conversations with the locals west vast and empty, all the better to make life, and even about their ancestors' role in in the small towns that dot the trail, but I you thankful you're nestled here against the the 1680 Pueblo Indians Revolt against the pedaled every inch of the route two years watered hills. Spanish. During that revolt, the Spanish ago with a birder, and enjoyed his observa- The place you’ve just conjured up is were besieged for nine days in the Palace of tions. Birds apparently love this central Santa Fe, the small (fewer that 100,000 peo- the Governors (on the north side of the state, partially for the river but also for its ple) capitol of . The Spaniards Plaza, where now, the Indian women sit all geographic position — half-way between who created this settlement in 1609, just day, offering beautiful silver-and-turquoise the Atlantic and the Rockies, with its north- two years after Jamestown was founded, jewelry laid out on red-and-black blankets) ern border north of Philadelphia and its and 11 years before the Pilgrim fathers before they escaped to Mexico. southern edge south of Virginia. stepped gingerly onto Plymouth Rock, Leave the saddle long enough to visit the This green and temperate midpoint of dubbed it La Villa Real de la Santa Fe de beautiful Santuario de Chimayo, the small the Union is home to some 400 species of San Francisco de Asis. No kidding. Luckily, church built in 1813 near where NM 76 and songbirds, and it’s the seasonal fly-by route it’s been shortened over the years to Santa NM 520 meet. Here, you'll hear about the of honkers and quackers, and other flappers, Fe ("Holy Faith”). legendary healing powers of the mud by the millions. Granted, you won't be My suggestion is that you use this amaz- beneath the church floor (believers still rousted from sleep by the bugling of elk, ing place as your starting point for a long smear it over their bodies), and also about a but every morning, and all day long, you'll three-day weekend ride to Taos and back crucifix that time and again has been taken hear the chirping and tweeting that passes (approximately 150 miles roundtrip). Tour- far away and then, miraculously, shows up for silence in the Show-Me state. ing Santa Fe before and after your ride again in Chimayo. From here to Truchas For further information along the "high-road-to-Taos" will still (where Robert Redford's "The Milagro Department of Natural make your trip only five days total, an Beanfield War" was filmed) and on to Taos Resources awfully short time for a culturally unique (via NM 76 and NM 518; your route is Division of State Parks route too lovely to be missed. What should obvious for the lack of alternatives) you Katy Trail State Park be missed is the seven noisy miles of US should find the scenery arresting. P.O. Box 166 285 just north of Santa Fe, but there's no The climbs are just tough enough, and Boonville, MO 65233 way around them. Any detailed map of long enough, to allow a great workout, set 800-334-6946 town will show you how to stay off this in a landscape of wide, tan valleys, capped www.mostateparks.com/katytrail.htm main drag for part of the way by pedaling by an azure sky. Range after range of hills the relatively traffic-free Bishop's Lodge and mountains turn an ever-darker blue in Road (NM 590) that parallels it to the east. the distance. High Road to Taos But this ultimately dumps you onto US 285 Taos, a village of only 4,000 residents, is First, imagine an adobe city, 7000 feet and you'll have to grin and bear it. worth at least one full and unhurried day. above sea level. Picture rich orange-brown Most of the cars headed toward Taos I’ve pedaled this route several times, and buildings, narrow streets more European will, fortunately, be on NM 68 along the liked most of all my one post-Labor Day than American, a centuries-old plaza Rio Grande River. You, however, will take ride, for its avoidance of summer crowds steeped in history, and scores of art gal- the turnoff toward Pojoaque Pueblo, and and winter skiers. And if you're out of your leries, shops, and cafes offering aromatic you’ll notice the world has gone quiet, tent or motel room early in the morning and coffees and honey-glazed sopapillas. Fill the instantly. The residents at Pojoaque (Po- take a stroll through the tiny plaza and the view north and east of town with low hills WOK-ay), and the nearby Nambe Pueblo surrounding adobe neighborhoods, you can of pinon and juniper, and behind them, high (with its even lovelier setting and camp- envision what this area was like when Geor-

Adventure Cyclist • August 2000 Climbling The New Mexico Department tried, and convicted in 1883, for killing and one of the eating his companions in the same high hills many passes of Tourism 491 Old you’ll be traversing. His was an attempted that are part crossing too late in the season. So don’t of the route P.O. Box 20002 in the San Santa Fe, NM 87501 push your luck. Juan Moun- 800-733-6396 Your route begins on pavement out of tains of Col- www.newmexico.org Telluride (to the junction with orado. 145), then heads south for eight miles before the turnoff east for your first pass of Colorado’s San Juan Ophir. This four-day loop is mostly dirt but includes some pavement; you’ll find that Mountains combination tires are your best bet. Barely And now, an off-road route that ranks out of Telluride, you will see the partially with the toughest anywhere. The 106-mile bald Mt. Wilson — the first of many “four- length of this loop ride isn’t all that great, teeners” (mountains of 14,000’ or more) and the jeep roads making up the majority that you’ll see on this trip — rising above of the miles are usually in good condition, its tree-covered neighbors. but it’s the total elevation gain and loss — a Ophir Pass lies some five hardpacked staggering 32,680’ — that makes this jour- dirt-and-gravel miles from the Colorado ney remarkable. Fortunately, the climbing 145 turnoff, and if this is your first ascent comes in the form of one massive pass for into the San Juans you’re in for a visual each of the four legs to this loop (three shock of vivid colors. The world this high is passes around 12,500’, the fourth, a whop- gia O'Keefe was first dazzled by the famed a succession of impressionistic swirls: ping 13,100’), and because there are towns New Mexico light some 70 years ago. bright green grasses lining mountain bowls, in each of the valleys, you can choose to No visit to Taos is complete without a rings of pine and spruce, patches of copper- ride unloaded and use motels, if you wish. ride north a few miles to the Taos Pueblo. colored rock, and gray fields of scree above You can, of course, begin this loop any- Don't worry about not finding anyone treeline with ridges capped with snow. where, and go in either direction. But I home, for this is the longest continually Threading these elements are avalanche strongly suggest that you begin in Telluride, inhabited spot in North America. You could trails, long vertical columns of bare rock, and that you ride counter-clockwise. I sug- have pedaled up in 1300 and found the which stand as quiet, destructive reminders gest this because the highest and toughest of women baking bread, tending the sheep and of an avalanche’s power. Occasional mine the four passes will thus come on your the children, and patching adobe walls. And openings stare out with small black eyes, fourth day, after you’ve acclimated to the you would have found the men in a shady and above it all are the enveloping skies of altitude a bit and toughened up — or died. spot, regaling one another with stories of brilliant blue, often clear, but sometimes Besides, if you make it back to Telluride, tribal religion, or warfare. To all appear- filled with gathering cumulus. You’ll have a you’re in a fun place to celebrate. ances, things haven't changed. chance to view all this while wheeling If you’re foreign to these parts, the first By the way, if you're experiencing any toward the top, for there are few steep thing you will notice when you arrive in bike problems, and even if you aren't, drop stretches (another reason to begin the route Telluride is the chill. At 8,745’ it’s cool into the Native Sons bike shop. They know in this direction). And then it’s a fun and even in summer. (And summer — July and bikes, and the territory. They can tell you fast dirt descent for four miles to US 550, August, and very early September — is the about Francisco Vasquez Coronado tramp- and a screaming fall into Silverton, five only time you’ll find the passes passable.) ing through the region in 1540, looking for miles south from there. There’s a Main Street straight out of the Old the seven cities of gold (the Pecos National Leave Silverton on CO 110 heading east West, with so much well-preserved Victori- Monument is only a 30-mile ride south and and north past the courthouse and camp- an architecture that the entire town is a east of Santa Fe; it was from here that ground, along the banks of the Animas national historic landmark. Coronado obtained a “guide” who purpose- River. The road is paved for a few miles The present-day resort status of this tiny fully led him on a wild-goose chase all the and then turns again into hardpacked dirt, burg means all the expected physical way to ). Or where Billy the Kid was which is graveled on the lower sections, and delights of hotels and restaurants. But it’s jailed, and how to find the important Civil fairly well-graded throughout. You’ll see a this town’s earlier times that delight the War battle site of Glorieta Pass. sign for your next destination — Lake City mind, or at least my mind. Bawdy and vio- Your best way back to Santa Fe is the — that says 30 miles, but it clocked in clos- lent, Telluride was the meeting place for way you pedaled up, but if you have the er to 40 by our count. Only 14 of these cowboys up from the nearby range, miners time, you should consider a road-ride exten- miles could be considered real four-wheel- down from their lofty digs, and more than sion farther north to Red River. Anyone you drive conditions, so your first two days of once, the state militia to keep the peace. bump into on the Plaza will show you the riding can be seen as great conditioning for Forty saloons and nary a church said a lot route. It’s that kind of place. the tougher third day, and the real hump that about the settlement’s character, as did the lies ahead on your last leg back to Telluride. railroad conductor’s cry of “To hell you For further information The deciduous trees along the Animas ride” as the narrow-gauge engine sputtered The best map to this region is the provide a pleasant break from the ever- to a stop. “Guide to Indian Country,” a cartographic green, and close-up views of mines and But then all four points of civilization on beauty that’s free to AAA members, but mills bring home the dirty, dangerous tasks this loop offer interesting combinations of available for $4 in some stores and national that made up this industry not many scenery, hell-raising pasts, and all the crea- park visitor centers. I also like Stephen Met- decades back. Proceed to the ghost town of ture comforts you need in the present. Lake zger’s NEW MEXICO HANDBOOK Animas Forks and spend some time investi- City, which you’ll drop into on the second (Moon Publications). And for general info: gating, then head toward Cinnamon Pass. night, was where Alferd G. Packer was

Adventure Cyclist • August 2000 For spectacular mountain scenery, it’s hard to beat the ride through the Canadian Rockies. nearly 2000 people, sported a school, store, bowling alley, a 250-man boarding house Don’t be confused by the sign directing you and — the most-loved of all on Saturday to Lake City via Engineer Pass (that route nights — a grand piano. lies straight ahead; ours makes a dog-leg to the right and heads up quickly). We’ll cross For further information: Engineer the following day, when going Silverton Area Chamber of Com- from Lake City to Ouray. merce The climb to Cinnamon is very steep at P.O. Box 565 first, but mellows thereafter, except toward Silverton, CO 81433 the end. It is 14 miles from Silverton to the 800-752-4494 pass, but if you have a camera with you it 970-387-5654 will take you half a day. Summit views www.silverton.org (Then go to “Activi- down-canyon are spectacular, and huge ties,” then “Jeeping” and “Jeep herds of sheep — looking like patches of Routes,” and order the maps for the snow from a distance — lie massed togeth- Alpine Loop.) er for warmth in the cold green mountain Finally, read ’s wonder- grass. ful book One Man’s West before you go. drop into Ouray (U-ray, the name of a Called Cinnamon for its beautiful red- Lavender worked at Camp Bird to acquire a notable Ute Indian chief who, as it happens, dish hues, the pass drops you onto four tight grubstake before his wedding, and so adds warned Packer’s party not to attempt a switchbacks and into a thick, fragrant personal experience to what he’s gleaned as mountain crossing when it did) makes that Hansel and Gretel forest. There are camp- a noted historian of the region. look like child’s play. This toy town sits sur- grounds as you near the huge blue surface Other good reads are Bostonians and rounded by enormous mountains, which of Lake San Cristobal, but don’t think you Bullion, a journal kept by Robert Livermore you’ll pierce from the south. I’ve pedaled have to stay this far away if you plan to tent during his time at Camp Bird long before through a dozen burgs describing them- it. Another campground exists just east of Lavender’s arrival. (Livermore’s father sent selves as “the Switzerland of America,” but the main part of town. him West to keep him from joining up for Ouray takes the prize. With its physical set- Remember Alferd G. Packer, the man the Spanish-American War.) Harried Fish ting, and brightly colored Victorian build- with the oddly spelled first name and the Backus in Tomboy Bride tells about her ings, it looks from a distance like it belongs even odder eating habits? Well, not all of days “over the hump” at the Tomboy Mine on a cake. what you might hear about him, or even high above Telluride, and through it you It has been said, many times, that there’s what you might read while in town about will see this peaceful summer world spin only one direction in Ouray – up! You’ll the 1883 court case held here, will be true. through a score of seasons nearly a century find this is true when pedaling out of town. For example, it was widely reported that ago. Take Main Street (US 550) to the road when sentencing the confessed cannibal, The stories of union fights and hell-rais- heading west at a sign saying Box Canyon Judge Melville B. Gerry rose to declaim: ing weekends, of freezing mule train trips Falls, and giving the names and mileages of “You voracious man-eating son of a bitch, through the snows of winter, of how it was Camp Bird Mine (6) and Yankee Boy Basin there was seven Democrats in Hinsdale to work all day deep in a hole at 12,000 (8). The distance to Imogene Pass, your County and you ate five of them! Packer, feet, of caring for children sick with colic, fourth of this ride, and the last before you you Republican cannibal, I would sentence pinkeye, and whooping cough ... all will drop back into Telluride, is only a couple of you to Hell but the Statutes forbid it.” open your eyes to other lives and times. miles beyond Yankee Boy. But this is a It’s deliciously colorful, but untrue. He Anyone can pedal a bike. But learning an stretch of pedaling, and some pushing, that was, however, sentenced to death — not for area the way you will know the San Juans will come to mind forever after when you eating the men but for killing them before after pumping its hills and turning some hear people speak of tough climbs. he did so. Packer escaped the noose on a pages is what two-wheeled travel is really The miles to Camp Bird Mine are suit- technicality, and was retried. This time all about. ● around, he was sent off to spend 40 years in able for two-wheel-drive vehicles, and the state pen, but was pardoned after eight. while a challenge at this altitude, they’re not much trouble. (One hint: if signs are down, To find your way out of Lake City and Adventure Cycling member Dennis Coello which they probably won’t be, always stick on to Engineer Pass, just follow the road wrote about five of his favorite tours east of with the main path at road splits.) But after signs, and the maps you can obtain free the Mississippi River in the July 1999 issue of that, the road turns into a roller coaster of from the Silverton Chamber of Commerce. Adventure Cyclist. There’s too much jeep traffic for my taste dips and turns, stream crossings, and on weekends in these parts, unless the exposed tree roots. It’s an evergreen forest weather turns bad, that is. Let a squall roll for a moment, then high meadowlands of through and the jeepsters quickly, and wise- flowers and heavily flowing rivulets. You’ll ly, turn tail toward the valley floor. Take a have a strong stream crossing (Imogene good poncho or rain suit, and all the back- Creek) near Camp Bird, before the tough country gear you’ll need to get you through and final four-mile trek to the top. Pace any troubles at the top. Yes, a town is yourself so that you can enjoy this land of always only 15 or so miles ahead or back brilliant blue skies, high white snow walls, the way you’ve come, but that’s an unbe- and gray talus slopes. lievably great distance when the roads go When you plunge happily down the soft and you go hungry. Ask Alferd. other side, you’ll have but six fast miles to Remember the breakneck-speed descent Telluride. Slow down a bit in Tomboy, how- I spoke of into Silverton? Well, the paved ever, if you wish to piece together the story of a high mountain town that once housed

Adventure Cyclist • August 2000