WITH SERGER BASICS Margie P. Memmott Utah State University Extension/Juab County

February 2001 FL-501

A serger is an machine that trims, THREADING THE SERGER stitches and overcasts all at once to save time and • Needle threads are always threaded last. produce professional finishes. The serger is used in • When a looper breaks, pull the thread conjunction with a conventional to out of the eyes of the needles, re-thread the create a wide variety of products. Here are some loopers, and then re-thread the needles. basic guidelines and helpful hints when sewing with • After serger is threaded, use a double layer a serger. of fabric and sew a trial run to check for proper formation and tension. NEEDLES • Decorative or heavier thread can only be • Change needle when stitches skip, or when used in the loopers and NOT in the needles. needle is dull, bent or burred. • Use nets on looper thread cones of slippery • When properly inserted, needle heights are decorative thread. not the same (this is normal). • To change thread, either: • Use the same size needles at the same time. 1. the old thread just above the spool • Size 80 needles are recommended for most and tie to the new thread with a small knot. serger sewing (70, 90 are fine, but don’t use Pull thread through until the knot comes to 100). the eye of the needle. Cut the knot off and • Needles to use: thread new color through needle. Do for Sharp for wovens both needles. Ballpoint for knits and interlocks Or 2. Tie small knot to join old and new Universal only when sewing a woven to a thread, turn all tension discs to 0 (zero knit tension = loose) and pull threads through, Stretch for spandex, super stretchy knits then return all tension discs to proper and fleece settings. Knots in thread will usually NOT Leather for upholstery and leather go through eyes of needles.

THREAD TENSION • Use a long staple thread to help prevent • For proper stitch formation, check and make frequent thread breaks or knot formation in sure threads are engaged in tension discs. front of the needle. • Turn discs to the left for less tension and to • For sergers, choose thread with as little lint the right for more tension (Right = tight, build-up and slubbing as possible. Left = loose). • When all else fails, re-thread the serger. STABILIZING SEAMS ROLLED • Use especially in shoulder seams. • Follow serger manual directions for rolled • Use clear elastic (1/4" or 1/2") for stretch preparation. knits such as tricot. The tape or elastic • Do not use a rolled hem on fabrics that are should be cut the same length as the original thick, loosely woven, dotted swiss or fabrics . with paint. • If threads of fabric tend to poke out, BEGINNING SEAMS increase the knife cutting width to reduce • Sew two stitches onto fabric. With needles the amount of fabric cut from the edge. down, lift pressure foot and pull gently on • To change bottom knife position, turn hand tail of thread to clear stitch finger. Pull wheel until needles are in the upper position thread chain in front of needles, lower foot, and move upper blade out of the way. oversew chain 1", and pull chain tail in front of blade and cut. HELPFUL HINTS • Or tie a knot in end of chain. • Use thumb to slightly raise the front of • Or thread chain ends through eye of a pressure foot to insert fabric. tapestry needle, then tunnel the needle and • To use conventional spool of thread, place it thread back along the on the spool with the notched edge between the fabric and the stitches. down and use a spool cap so thread will not get caught in thread spool notch. ENDING SEAMS • To pin fabric, place parallel to the edge • Sew one or two stitches off end of seam. of the fabric and into the garment about 3" Lift pressure foot, gently pull fabric back to from the edge to avoid damage to cutting pull stitches off stitch finger. Turn fabric knives. over and oversew last 1" or 2" (do not cut • NEVER SERGE OVER PINS! Knives may previous stitches). break and serger’s timing may be impaired. • Or tie knot in end of chain. • To remove serged seams, run seam ripper • Or thread chain ends through eye of tapestry along top edge of fabric, under looper needle, then tunnel back along the seam threads, and cut them the desired distance. allowance between the fabric and the To remove the chain part of stitch, work stitches. from the underneath side of the serged stitches, locate the looper thread, pull it and OUTSIDE CORNERS the chain will come right out. • Sew one or two stitches off the edge of • Remove serger lint with a paint brush, fabric. With needles and pressure foot up, canned air, air compressor, etc. gently pull fabric straight back off stitch • Have fun and do not be afraid to finger. Turn fabric in order that needles will experiment! enter at edge of fabric. Gently pull on needle threads above tension guides to pick up any extra slack. Lower pressure foot and sew. Utah State University Extension is an INSIDE CORNERS affirmative action/equal employment opportunity employer and educational organization. We offer our • Sew until blade touches the corner, tuck the programs to persons regardless of race, color, fabric on the left close to the needles in national origin, sex, religion, age or disability. order that second edge is straight and Issued in furtherance of Cooperative alongside the blade. Sew the second edge. If Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, corners pucker, use to clip the Robert L. Gilliland, Vice-President and Director, inside corner to the seam allowance. Cooperative Extension Service, Utah State • Remember to clip fabric first to sew into University, Logan, Utah. (EP/DF/02-2000) corners or on inside curves, as needed.