The Surprising Joy of Walking: from Mountain Hikes to City Strolls
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FREE POCKET GUIDE OUR REGION, YOUR ADVENTURE The Surprising Joy of Walking: From Mountain Hikes to City Strolls MAIN ARTICLE — PAGE 4 For more info: www.gorillahighlands.com Rukiga English Kinyarwanda / Rufumbira (Kabale in Uganda) Kiswahili How are you? Umezute / Uraho? Ni gaahe / Agandi Habari yako? I’m fine Ndaho / Meze neza / Yego Ndi gye/ Nimarungi Niko salama / Habari njema How was your night? Waraye / Waramutseho neza? Oraire gye? Umelala aje? How’s your day been? Wiriwe / Wiriweho? Osiibire gye? Umeshindaje? Good day Umunsi mwiza Osiibigye Siku njema Good night Urare neza / Uramuke Oraaregye Lala salama / Usiku mwema Goodbye Ngaho/ Urabeho Ogumeho Kwaheri Thank you (very much) Wakoze / Urakoze (cyane) Yebare (munonga) Asante (sana) Yes Yeego / Yee Yeego Ndiyo No Oya lngaaha Hapana OK Kare/ Nibyo Kare Sawa Sir Mutware Sebo Bwana Madam Mubyeyi / Mucyara Nyabo Bibi Nshuti / Mugenzi Munywani / Mugyenzi Rafiki Friend Phrasebook 2 2 Webare Kwija! Murakoze 100Kuza! km 100 miles Fort Portal Asanteni Kwa Kuja! Kasese Kampala 21 The Gorilla HighlandsEQUATOR Pocket Guide has become more than Lake 41 Entebbe just a booklet; it has taken over Edward gorillahighlands.com. That is Mbarara Masaka the website to visit if you want Congo more details on anything you Uganda find in this publication. The Kisoro Lake QR codes and links Kabale introducing sections Victoria will help you with it. Goma/ Gisenyi Musanze Also new: Rwanda • East African Calendar (p78-79) Kigali to make your travel more fun • Topical Thread that begins Lake with the main article overleaf Bukavu Kivu and extends all over We hope you love the changes! Gorilla Highlands Trails (p4-5) Congo Nile Trail (p52) Miha Logar, editor Places in Places in Places in in Musanze, September 2019 Rwanda Uganda Congo SECTIONS Introduction 6 Cities & Towns 38 Regional National Parks 18 Other Regional Attractions 58 Nearby National Parks 24 Classified Ads 64 Lakes 30 East African Calendar 78 3 photo by Marcus Westberg photo by David Esteban The Surprising Joy of Walking: From Mountain Hikes to City Strolls “There’s no joy in walking,” comments our youngest team member matter- of-factly. She grew up in Kampala where most urbanites would happily take a motorcycle taxi to their bathroom if available… The Gorilla Highlands Pocket Guide is talking to domestic travellers as much as international tourists and the challenge is global: hiking is a niche activity. But it really shouldn’t be! No other way of travelling brings you as close to the landscape and the people, allows you to really feel a place. It is most environmentally friendly and, obviously, healthy. While some of the most astonishing destinations in our region (and the world) are only accessible on foot, for others walking is an option. Why not take it? Ultimate Beginners “It was the first time for me walking, ever, with a backpack,” said a Swedish guest earlier this year. “I usually go to cities and you walk a lot but not like this.” “No,” confirmed his hiking buddy quietly (gorillahighlands.com/testimonials). They were reflecting on a seven-day (!) Ultimate Hike on the Ugandan Gorilla Highlands Trails, leading them from Lake Bunyonyi to Mgahinga Gorilla National park and then across Lake Mutanda to Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. And they weren’t even done: they added a climb to the lava lake of Mt Nyiragongo in DR Congo. They loved them both, and are determined to travel like that again. 4 The Gorilla Highlands Trails and the Congo Nile Trail (p52) combine into a multi-week adventure that photo by Henriette Faye-Schjøll takes you from the home of mountain gorillas to the doorstep of their eastern The Surprising Joy of Walking: lowland cousins (p29). From Mountain Hikes to City Strolls Their amount of trekking could well be life-threatening for a total beginner… Thankfully the Gorilla Highlands Trails include half-day experiences at Lake Burera and Lake Bunyonyi, and even easier walks in cities and towns. What are the Gorilla Highlands Trails? You have already read the term twice, time to explain it: the Gorilla Highlands Trails is a growing system of trips connecting the biggest regional attractions and tapping into the Congo Nile Trail for a three-country extravaganza. These offers are guided because nothing can enrich your trip more than a knowledgeable guide, and his/her first-aid training will also make you safer. You will see the trips presented on our maps all over the booklet and on gorillahighlands.com/trails. The Gorilla Highlands Trails currently bring you to three national parks. As an add-on, rangers can show you what is hiding inside, depending on your wishes and preferences. Alternatively you could find your own way to a national park and enjoy professionally led and affordable nature walk activities in protected areas. If nature sounds too scary to you, step into the urban jungle at least! Whatever you opt for, do get off your couch and into the wild, natural or urban… You will thank us later. 5 INTRODUCTION Red thread photo by Marcus Westberg 6 /intro Red thread Positioned in the heart of Africa, Rwanda is in many ways an exemplary country: orderly, clean and rapidly developing. Its northern neighbour Uganda has been dubbed the “Pearl of Africa” for good reason. The Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) that borders both countries to the west is a land that simply evokes adventure. Together they make a destination like no other, the Gorilla Highlands region. 7 Our region is defined by the Virunga volcanoes (p20) — some of them still active — and the ancient rainforest of Bwindi (p23) that represent the last Uganda Martyrs University home of the mountain gorilla. From the countless islands of Lake Bunyonyi a village campus so pretty (p33) to the seaside feel of Lake Kivu (p50) water bodies are sprinkled all you just have to see it over the valleys, interrupted by beautifully terraced hills. To reach the Gorilla Highlands, you can fly to Rwanda’s capital Kigali (p41), p67 Uganda’s Entebbe near Kampala (p45) or Congo’s Goma (p53); for the Kampala distances please consult p48. Numerous attractions are lined up on the way Mpigi but the savannahs of Queen Elizabeth (p27) with tree-climbing lions and Akagera (p26) with the Big 5 undoubtedly top the list. p66 Entebbe Queen p72 Elizabeth Lyantonde NP (p27) Masaka p74 Mbarara Equator Circles p74 Ntungamo Lake Mburo NP Bwindi NP (p23) zebras, giraffes, Lake Nabugabo impalas, walking laid-back atmosphere and safe swimming in safaris and even what was part of Lake Victoria 4,000 years ago horse riding Kisoro p69 Kabale p67 Volcanoes Virungas (p20) p73 Musanze Akagera p66 NP (p26) Gisenyi & Goma p64 p68 Kigali 8 Uganda Martyrs University a village campus so pretty you just have to see it p67 Kampala Mpigi p66 Entebbe Queen p72 Elizabeth Lyantonde NP (p27) Masaka p74 Mbarara Equator Circles p74 Ntungamo Lake Mburo NP Bwindi NP (p23) zebras, giraffes, Lake Nabugabo impalas, walking laid-back atmosphere and safe swimming in safaris and even what was part of Lake Victoria 4,000 years ago horse riding Kisoro p69 Kabale p67 Volcanoes Virungas VISA INFORMATION: The East African Tourist visa covers Rwanda, Uganda and (p20) p73 Kenya and costs USD 100. If you wish to include a visit to Congo, prepare for Akagera your East African Tourist visa to be voided — do it at the beginning or at the Musanze end of your journey, in combination with a single-entry Rwanda visa (USD 30). p66 NP (p26) Gisenyi & Goma p64 p64 Classified Adverts p68 Kigali Accommodation What To Do Food/Drink & Shopping 9 Ntungamo p6 Rwanda, the central country of our Kisoro p6 region, offers quite a range of highlights Virunga Kabale and environments: Volcanoes volcanoes (Volcanoes NP, p21), savannah (p20) (Akagera NP, p26) and rainforest (Nyungwe NP, p28). p Musanze Gicumbi Congo Nile Trail walk for 10 days p66 Nyirangarama Akagera NP or cycle for 5 (p52) Goma/Gisenyi Rwanda routes (p26) p64 Kigali p6 Kayonza Museum of p6 Environment first in Africa Kakira Cooperative Kibuye Muhanga imigongo art, originally made of cow dung King’s Palace Nyamata Singing Boats traditional seat from the shore, of monarchy listen to Kivu Rusumo fishermen pass by Nyanza p6 p Genocide p4 Bukavu/Rusizi Memorial most visceral of Nyungwe NP (p28) p6 all memorials Huye Rusumo Falls National Museum Rwanda’s #1 beautiful presentation waterfall of history and culture 10 Ntungamo p6 Kisoro p6 Virunga Kabale Volcanoes (p20) p Musanze Gicumbi Congo Nile Trail walk for 10 days p66 Nyirangarama Akagera NP or cycle for 5 (p52) Goma/Gisenyi (p26) p64 Kigali p6 Kayonza Museum of p6 Environment first in Africa Kakira Cooperative Kibuye Muhanga imigongo art, originally made of cow dung King’s Palace Nyamata Singing Boats traditional seat from the shore, of monarchy listen to Kivu Rusumo fishermen pass by Nyanza p6 p Genocide p4 Bukavu/Rusizi Memorial most visceral of Nyungwe NP (p28) p6 all memorials Huye Rusumo Falls National Museum Rwanda’s #1 beautiful presentation waterfall of history and culture 11 The map presents different routes of multi-day hiking trips, guided and all-inclusive. Trek directions can be reversed, adjusted and combined. Overnight stays at all levels of accommodation are possible, from camping in villages to luxury lodges. Day trips are shown on the two zoomed-in maps (p34 and p37). More: gorillahighlands.com/trails p34 p37 12 Volcano Quest and Multi-Day Fisherman’s Fortune (p37) treks can be joined into a Trips on Gorilla fascinating three-day hike from Lake Burera (Rwanda) Highlands Trails to Lake Bunyonyi (Uganda) or vice versa. Prices per person, valid for any group size.