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This California-style townhouse is a cross between luxury home and boutique hotel, 32 with three spacious apartments. ADN Galería, Polanco 152 Cuernavaca, 06170 Mexican modernism +52 (55) 2155 6312 casadovela.com The foremost vintage design gallery in City is the work of Paulo Peña and Paulina Hassey. Over the past decade they’ve put together Las Alcobas, Polanco a priceless collection of 20th-century Mexican Tastefully appointed modernism by surveying the country for unique pieces by the likes of Mathias Goeritz. Unconventional and beguiling, Las Alcobas delivers quiet luxury with an 62 Moliere, 11560 intimate atmosphere: 31 spacious rooms and +52 (55) 5511 5521 this megalopolis is an endless four suites with polished wooden furnishings. adn-galeria.com parade of sights, sounds 390 Avenida Presidente Masaryk, 11560 +52 (55) 3300 3900 and smells. It feels intimate lasalcobas.com Studio David Pompa, Roma Norte despite its gargantuan size but Lights fantastic Food and drink good guidance is still essential Cultural cravings After a trip to Oaxaca, where he observed – and this is where we step artisans working with barro negro (black clay), chilango designer David Pompa had the idea in. Here we uncover the of creating light fixtures made with Mexican city’s tastiest tacos and the materials. Today his studio creates wonderfully Bar El Sella, Doctores rudimentary pendant and standing lights. retailers breathing new life What the doctor ordered 264 Colima, 06700 into classic crafts, lead you to +52 (55) 6583 5027 This classic restaurant is known for its food and davidpompa.com our favourite mural-splashed merry day-drinking. Order a cazuela (stew) of buildings and the best places chorizo bubbling in cider to start and then a chamorro (meltingly tender pork shank), plus Macolen, San Miguel in which to practise your guacamole, hot tortillas and salsa for diy tacos. Pressing matters salsa – ending up in a dimly 210 Doctor Balmis, 06720 +52 (55) 5578 2001 The old refrigerator shelves holding countless lit mezcal bar or two for good barelsella.com.mx fanzines and artists’ books hint at the previous life of this Risograph printing press and shop: measure. Órale, amigos! it used to be a convenience store. All the pieces Amaya, Juárez are Riso-printed on site and available in a Grape expectations limited run of 25 copies each. 31 General Antonio Léon, 11850 Need to know Chef Jair Téllez serves classics such as ceviche +52 (55) 7155 1804 Get to grips with the basics and sopes (maize patties) with chorizo but his macolen.com playful dishes are the real draw. Amaya also showcases Bichi, the family’s natural winery in Tecate, and is the place to taste the best vintages Maison Manila, Polanco 01 Rebranding the city: Mexico City recently from Mexico and Latin American producers. Smart stuff rebranded itself from DF (Distrito Federal) 95 General Prim, 06600 to cdmx (Ciudad de México) and you’ll see +52 (55) 5592 5571 This young brand is an encouraging sign for sculptures of its new initials dotted across amayamexico.com Mexican fashion: it has a dependable range with the city. thoughtful but minimal shifts between seasons. 02 Shopping on the metro: Mexicans can be Founder Rossana Díaz del Castillo’s driving incredibly entrepreneurial and, as a result, Kura, Roma Norte principle is creating accessible luxury fashion. the entire metro system is one perpetual Extraordinary sushi 61 Séneca, 11560 hustle. You’ll find people selling everything maisonmanila.com from chewing gum to camera tripods. At this izakaya you can enjoy hearty donburi 03 Personal security: Mexico City is generally (rice-bowl dishes), ramen good enough to rival Vocabulary safe thanks to a government clampdown on Tokyo, yakitori of grilled baby octopus and Talking the talk criminality in the capital. That said, beware of plates of sashimi. Chef Takeya Matsumoto has pickpockets and take care using your phone. many years of experience in Mexico and pays 04 Lunch over dinner: Lunch is the main meal special attention to the sushi. of the day and is usually eaten late (at about 378 Colima, 06700 01 Mande? What/pardon? 15.00). Dinner is lighter and less important, +52 (55) 5511 8665 02 Fresa: Posh person with expensive taste which is why some of the city’s restaurants 03 Qué onda? How’s it going? finish serving late afternoon. 04 Guëy (wey): Dude/mate/buddy 05 Cash society: Cash is king here and not just Pastelería Ideal, Centro Histórico 05 -ito/a: Diminutive suffix added to most when it comes to street-food stalls or taxis: Pastry palace words. For example: Tomamos una cervecita? it’s even used on the metro. You can still pay (Shall we have a cheeky beer?) by card in most shops, restaurants and bars A bakery that opened its doors in 1927, this is but keep some efectivo (cash) on hand. the ideal place to sample the gamut of Mexican 32 pastries. There’s an airy courtyard with stacks of sweet breads in every shape, including orejas Mexico City Hotels Need to Hotels Food and Retail Essays know H F drink R E Culture Design and Sport and Walks Resources Where to stay (elephant ear-shaped pastries with syrup). C D architecture S fitness Street food. Cantinas. Mezcal — Art. Museums. Architecture — Mariachi. Markets. 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Nima Local House Hotel, Roma Norte Home from home Bósforo, Centro (West) Speciality mezcal This historic building once belonged to one of Mexico’s greatest art collectors, Guillermo The easygoing staff here pour mezcal varieties

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