WALKING ’S About the Author WALKING Malcolm Leatherdale has a particular interest in walking and exploring his native Hampshire. He has lived for the past 15 years a stone’s throw away HAMPSHIRE’S TEST WAY from the and the Test Way. Malcolm is an active cyclist and also a former marathon runner having competed several times in the London THE LONG-DISTANCE TRAIL AND 15 DAY WALKS Marathon. He has written several books and a number of articles. Malcolm is also a member of the Ramblers and it is his passion for by Malcolm Leatherdale walking and being in the ‘great outdoors’ that has prompted this guide- book. His hope is that it will encourage others of all ages and abilities to experience the delights that come from walking generally and the Test Way and the wider in particular.

JUNIPER HOUSE, MURLEY MOSS, OXENHOLME ROAD, KENDAL, CUMBRIA LA9 7RL www.cicerone.co.uk © Malcolm Leatherdale 2018 First edition 2018 CONTENTS ISBN: 978 1 85284 953 5 Map key...... 6 Printed by KHL Printing, Singapore Overview map...... 7 A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated. INTRODUCTION ...... 9 Brief history of the Test Valley...... 11 The Andover and Redbridge canal and the ‘Sprat and Winkle’ railway. . . . 12 © Crown copyright 2018 OS PU100012932 Geology and landscape...... 15 Plants and wildlife...... 18 Where to stay...... 19 Getting to and around the Test Way and to the walks...... 20 Walking the Test Way...... 20 Acknowledgements Cycling – the National Cycle Network and parts of the Test Way ...... 22 Maps ...... 23 My thanks to my wife Patsie for her patience and support in getting me Waymarking, access and rights of way...... 23 across the finishing line. I am also grateful to Anna Leatherdale, Laurence Protecting the countryside ...... 23 Martin and Tom Nixon. Using this guide...... 24

THE TEST WAY...... 25 Stage 1 Beacon to ...... 26 Updates to this guide Stage 2 Hurstbourne Tarrant to St Mary Bourne...... 32 Stage 3 St Mary Bourne to ...... 37 While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guide- Stage 4 Longparish to ...... 43 books as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edi- Stage 5 Wherwell to Stockbridge...... 49 tion. Any updates that we know of for this guide will be on the Cicerone Stage 6 Stockbridge to ...... 54 website (www.cicerone.co.uk/953/updates), so please check before plan- Stage 7 Mottisfont to ...... 59 ning your trip. We also advise that you check information about such Stage 8 Romsey to Eling Wharf Totton...... 64 things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. We are always grateful for information about any WALKS BETWEEN INKPEN BEACON AND WHERWELL...... 71 discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by Walk 1 Hurstbourne Tarrant and ...... 72 email to [email protected] or by post to Cicerone, Juniper House, Walk 2 Whitchurch, Laverstoke and Freefolk...... 77 Murley Moss, Oxenholme Road, Kendal, LA9 7RL. Walk 3 Longparish, Forton, Harewood Forest and Deadman’s Plack. . . 82 Register your book: To sign up to receive free updates, special offers Walk 4 and Bransbury...... 87 and GPX files where available, register your book at www.cicerone.co.uk. Walk 5 Wherwell and ...... 91

WALKS BETWEEN AND STOCKBRIDGE ...... 97 Front cover: Fisherman’s Hut at (Walk 8) Walk 6 Chilbolton, Fullerton, Goodworth Clatford and . . 98 Walk 7 Chilbolton Observatory and Chilbolton Common...... 103 Overview map

Walk 8 Danebury Iron Age hill fort and Longstock ...... 107 M4 Walk 9 Stockbridge and ...... 113 N Walk 10 and Little Somborne ...... 117 A4 Hungerford Thatcham Newbury A4 WALKS BETWEEN HOUGHTON AND TOTTON...... 123 0 20 km Walk 11 Houghton and Broughton...... 124 Walk 12 Houghton, King’s Somborne and ...... 129 Walk 13 Stonymarsh, Mottisfont, and . . . . . 134 Pewsey Burbage

Walk 14 , Mottisfont and ...... 140 A339 Walk 15 Romsey, Fishlake Meadows Nature Reserve and Greatbridge. . 145 Stage 1 1 A34 Appendix A Route summary tables ...... 150 Ludgershall Appendix B Itinerary planner...... 152 Stage 2 Appendix C Accommodation near the Test Way...... 153 A345

A338 Appendix D Useful contacts...... 154 A338 Andover Whitchurch Stage 3 R Test 2 Appendix E Further reading...... 155 A303 3 Stage 4 6 5 Amesbury 7 4 A343 Stage 5 A30 A33 8 A272

A338 3

0 A

Stockbridge A M3 New 5

A30 5 7 9 7 ! Alresford Stage 6 King’s Salisbury # A31 $ Somborne Route symbols on OS map extracts Features on the overview map % (for OS legend see printed OS maps) & County/Unitary boundary SOUTH A27 Stage 7 A3090 route National boundary ( DOWNS A36 start/finish point Urban area Romsey

n o M271 start point National Park v A Stage 8

eg R finish point M27 Area of Outstanding Natural route direction Beauty/National Scenic Area eg A31 A326 M27 800m A27 600m NEW Hythe GPX files 400m FOREST 200m GPX files for all routes can be downloaded A337 free at www.cicerone.co.uk/953/GPX. 75m 0m A35 e Sol Th ent 6 7  Walking Hampshire’s Test Way

Test Way direction post at Mottisfont (Stage 6/Walks 13 & 14) INTRODUCTION

From Houghton Bridge (Walk 12)

For some, the magic of the River Test inhabiting the various Sites of Special is all about fresh water fly-fishing but Scientific Interest (SSSI) – including for others it is simply the lure of a Stockbridge Down, a haven for many sparkling river famously described as species of butterfly – and it is not dif- ‘gin clear’. The Test flows majestically ficult to understand the attraction of a the 40 miles (65km) from its source place that so completely defines pas- in the hamlet of Ashe near Overton toral . in north Hampshire to the edge of Chalk streams are a very rare . There is though, breed among the various types of so much more to this land of vibrant river that can be found on our planet. green – its variety of landscape, gently Such streams naturally occur in those sloping tree-clad hills, the occasional areas where chalk is the main geo- remnant of a former water meadow logical feature. Water seeps through or chalk grassland – all set against a the porous chalk to feed the springs backdrop of a fascinating history and that in turn give rise to rivers such as geology. Add to that the vast array the Test. The pure water, rich in nutri- of wildflowers, plants and wildlife ents, also helps to maintain a plentiful

8 9 Walking Hampshire’s Test Way Brief history of the Test Valley supply of insects on which fish stocks hosting one of only four ecclesiastical ‘mania’ that followed have also left stages of the TW, there is something rely (please refer to the section dovecotes that remain in England. their distinctive mark. At the ivy cov- for everyone. Ten of the walks also Geology and landscape). There are Nor is there any shortage of ered remains of the former Fullerton interweave with parts of the TW so only about 200 chalk streams world- individual buildings of outstanding Junction station you can imagine that it is possible in the course of those wide of which 160 are in England and architectural quality as the 12th cen- in the heyday of the Andover and walks for you to achieve the best of the River Test − also an SSSI − is one tury Romsey Abbey, the resplendent Redbridge railway (generally known both worlds! of the finest examples. (now owned by as the ‘Sprat and Winkle’) the scene Some of the area’s history is the National Trust) and the unique then would have been very differ- quite intriguing, notably the murder- Whitchurch Silk Mill bear witness. ent from the sense of tranquillity that BRIEF HISTORY OF THE ous story of the Saxon Queen Elfrida There is also the dramatic impact can now be enjoyed. Some of the old TEST VALLEY and the founding of Wherwell Abbey of our forebears − the imposing track bed also forms part of the Test Dating from the Neolithic period in the 10th century. The monu- Danebury Iron Age hill fort being one Way (TW). (4500–2200BC) there is evidence of ment known as Deadman’s Plack in example. You can also discover the The TW begins in the North farming activity in large parts of the Harewood Forest is also a part of that delights of the many charming vil- Wessex Downs Area of Outstanding Test Valley. There are relics from the story, albeit from the 19th century. lages brimming with flint and thatch Natural Beauty (AONB) in West Bronze Age (2200–750BC) includ- There are an infinite variety of medi- and individual ‘hostelries’ to match. and then runs in parallel ing barrows or burial mounds, 14 of eval churches with their own particu- The spate of canal construction with the Wiltshire county boundary which are to be found at Stockbridge lar histories to share; St Mary’s Church that took place in the late 18th and for a short distance before crossing Down (Walk 10). During the Iron Age in Broughton has the distinction of early 19th centuries and the railway into Hampshire at Combe Wood. It (750BC–AD43), a number of hill forts then continues through rolling chalk were constructed in and around the downland traversing Harewood Forest Test Valley including Danebury (Walk either side of Longparish – which is 8) and Woolbury Ring at the top of also where the TW first meets the River Stockbridge Down. Test. From the hamlet of Fullerton at The Romans who invaded in the half-way point, the route joins the AD43 and remained until the begin- old track bed of the former 'Sprat and ning of the fifth century have also Winkle' railway, becoming flat and left their imprint. There is a trace fairly straight as it makes its way to of a Roman road across Bransbury Mottisfont. The penultimate stage to Common (Walk 4) and in Harewood Romsey includes Squabb Wood and Forest (Stage 4). The Anglo-Saxon the final stage to Eling Wharf at Totton period (AD450–1065) saw the devel- crosses the unique tidal estuary Lower opment of a number of settlements, Test Nature Reserve. particularly Romsey (Stage 7 and Last but not least, there are the 15 Walk 15) as a prominent trading cen- circular walks, which vary in length tre due to its location and ecclesiasti- from 3.75 miles (6km) to 8.5 miles cal influence. (13.75km). A few have uphill chal- In medieval times the chalk lenges (usually with rewarding views) downland areas were used intensively Romsey Abbey (Stage 7/Walk 15) but none are overly difficult, so when for rearing sheep – one of the most taken together with the individual economically important activities

10 11 Walking Hampshire’s Test Way The Andover and Redbridge canal and the ‘Sprat and Winkle’ railway

Wherwell thatch (Walk 5) would be laid. The purchase was by the London and South Western completed in 1859 by the Andover Railway. Construction of the line took and Redbridge Railway Company. The until 1864 to complete but permis- initial attempts to build the railway sion was not given to start operating were however blighted by the fail- immediately because the government ings and manipulative behaviour of inspector who undertook the commis- the contractor and the railway’s own sioning survey made it a condition engineer, both of whom were even- that the rails had to be replaced with tually removed in 1861. Even when ones more substantial. The railway work recommenced, it was hesitant finally opened in 1865 after the reme- and sporadic. One particular stum- dial work had been carried out. bling block was the need to remove One of the practical problems the congealed mud from the bed of experienced during the first 20 or so the canal and then to fill it with chalk years of operation was derailment. obtained locally to create a sound This inconvenient and no doubt base on which the track bed could be expensive distraction was mainly laid – a monumental task. due to the line having several sharp In 1863, the Andover and bends – in part as a result of the Redbridge Railway Company was in track being laid directly over the for- financial difficulty and it was acquired mer canal bed. This unsatisfactory during that period. The power inher- was granted in 1789. The canal, ent in the River Test spawned numer- which was 22 miles (35km) long and ous water mills particularly around incorporated 24 locks, was completed Whitchurch (Walk 2) where they were in 1794. used in the production of cloth and at However, the canal was never a Laverstoke, especially in the making financial success and proved to be of paper for bank notes. a poor investment. There is now just a single vestige of the canal (Walk 15) – an overgrown and derelict sec- THE ANDOVER AND tion of about 2 miles (3km) between REDBRIDGE CANAL AND THE Greatbridge and Romsey. ‘SPRAT AND WINKLE’ RAILWAY The ‘Sprat and Winkle’ railway The canal In 1858, an Act of Parliament author- A survey to plan the prospective route ising the construction of a railway to of a canal from Andover to Redbridge replace the canal was granted. Before (on the western side of Southampton) work could start, the railway promot- was conducted by Robert Whitworth ers had to acquire the Andover to in 1788/9. The enabling Act of Redbridge canal itself as it was along Restored signal box from the former ‘Sprat and Winkle’ railway in Romsey (Walk 15) Parliament authorising construction the canal bed that much of the railway

12 13 Walking Hampshire’s Test Way Geology and landscape situation needed to be resolved and (Stage 7 and Walk 13) had become The quiet remnants of Fullerton Junction (Stage 5/Walk 6) the catalyst for bringing that about financially unviable and was closed in was the opening in 1882 of the line 1964 as one of a series of closures of between Andover and Swindon via parts of the rail network made in the Marlborough, which created a direct wake of Dr Richard Beeching’s report, route to Southampton. The Reshaping of British Railways, The fortunes of the Andover published in 1963. and Redbridge railway improved significantly due to the increase in The ‘Longparish Loop’ also known as its traffic and, as a consequence, it the ‘Nile Valley Railway’ was decided that the line should be There is another strand to the ‘Sprat straightened and converted from a and Winkle’ story. In 1882, an Act of single to a double track. This work Parliament was passed authorising was completed in 1885. the construction of a branch line of The railway at some point about 7 miles (11km) from Fullerton became known as the’ Sprat and to Hurstbourne where it connected Winkle’ and there are several theories with the London and Salisbury why it was blessed with such a name. mainline at the viaduct just south One possible reason is the suggestion of St Mary Bourne (Stages 2 and 3). that the line went through areas where This branch line, which was com- sprats and winkles might be har- pleted in 1885, became generally vested nearer the sea at Southampton; known as the ‘Longparish Loop’ constructed which meant the Loop GEOLOGY AND LANDSCAPE another refers to the single engine and (the Loop), and Fullerton became never fully realised its potential. It was The TW begins at the escarpment of carriage formation that operated over Fullerton Junction. mainly used to transport freight as the Inkpen Beacon at a height of 280m. part of the line − the engine being the It was an expensive project as it passenger business was limited due to It is astonishing to think that at one ‘sprat’ and the carriage the ‘winkle’! turned out. The hope and expectation the lack of demand. Together with the time this area was at the bottom of the The railway was strategically very was that the existence of this connect- ‘Sprat and Winkle’ railway, it was par- sea. The geology of the North Wessex significant in World War 1, provid- ing line would encourage more traffic ticularly useful during World War 1. Downs, is mainly upper chalk formed ing transport for both personnel and from Manchester and the midlands to Passenger traffic ceased in 1931 during the Upper Cretaceous period munitions. During World War 2 it was Southampton rather than let a rival and the track between Longparish (99–65 million years ago). Upper also used extensively and particularly railway company construct a more and Hurstbourne was removed in chalk is soft white limestone and is in the latter stages to transfer wounded direct line to Southampton through 1934. The remaining part of the the product of the fossilised skeletal service personnel from Chilbolton air- Didcot, Newbury, Whitchurch and track between Fullerton Junction remains of countless microscopic field (Walk 7) via Fullerton Junction Winchester. It was put to the pro- and Longparish came in to its own marine algae and other creatures. (Walk 6) to the American hospital at moters of the alternative line that again during World War 2 when The chalk deposits also contain Stockbridge. they should ‘join forces’ to save the Harewood Forest (Stages 3 and 4 and flint nodules in large quantity. There From the 1950s the use of the expense that would be incurred and Walks 3 and 5) was used for the stor- are some parts of the downland that railway for both freight and passen- instead make use of the Loop. age of munitions by the RAF. It was are covered by shallow deposits of ger traffic gradually declined. The In the event the proposal was closed for good in 1956 and the track clay; these also contain flints but to line between Andover and Kimbridge rejected and the more direct line was removed in 1960. a lesser extent and are known as clay

14 15 Walking Hampshire’s Test Way Stage 1 – Inkpen Beacon to Hurstbourne Tarrant

Alongside Combe Wood STAGE 1 Inkpen Beacon to Hurstbourne Tarrant

Start Informal car park at road T-junction adjacent to the Wayfarer’s Walk (SU 369 621) Finish The community centre and recreation ground car park, Hurstbourne Tarrant (SU 385 528) Distance 13km (8 miles) Time 3hr 15min Maps OS Explorer 131 and 158 Refreshments Hurstbourne Tarrant: George & Dragon (01264 736277) (125 metres off route) and The Tea Cosy (01264 736644) (700 metres off route) Public transport Trains to Andover, Hungerford, Kintbury and Newbury; bus services to Inkpen village from Hungerford, Kintbury and Newbury; bus services to Hurstbourne Tarrant from the right-hand side of the hedge in Andover and Newbury front and, as the broad field mar- Accommodation Inkpen village and Hurstbourne Tarrant gin curves gradually to the left, descend towards a field gate and side gate. Go through the side The first stage of the TW starts very close to its highest point of 280m with gate and bear left (past a panoramic views. The route wends its way initially over rolling downland Buttermere Estate wooden and then through Combe Wood, past Hart Hill Down and on to sign) staying alongside the before arriving at Ibthorpe and, shortly afterwards, Hurstbourne Tarrant boundary as it arcs gen- where it ends at the car park which is also the start and finish of Walk 1. tly around the top edge of the field to another field gate that opens on to an enclosed rutted Exit the car park and cross the road to the ‘ribbon of farm track with dis- chalk and flint’ streaming across the escarpment towards tant views to the Combe Gibbet on Gallows Down. Go past the gibbet right. Continue keeping to the rutted track for another 500 metres to along the track to reach a three-way track junction and several towering a junction with beech trees. a bridleway (left) Bear left and continue slightly uphill to the end of and a stile (right) – the hedge where there is a public bridleway sign. Cross where there is also map continues the dividing grassy area between two open fields to another Buttermere on page 28

26 27 Walking Hampshire’s Test Way Stage 1 – Inkpen Beacon to Hurstbourne Tarrant

Estate sign the other side of the fence. The track becomes boundary at the base of Hart Hill Down to a single storey more loosely surfaced as it descends very sharply old farm building (left). alongside Combe Wood. At the bottom of the dip, In a further 300 metres, the track forks by a second turn directly left into Combe Wood through an more contemporary single storey building – an ‘outdoor opening next to a ‘fixed’ field gate ignoring activities’ facility. Take the right-hand fork for 75 metres the unmarked grassy path straight ahead. uphill towards a modest flint cottage. Opposite the cot- Follow the woodland track to a tage is the TW waymarked path that goes directly into track junction where there is a sign- the woodland. The incline through the woodland of 150 post confirming that the track so metres is quite steep and the path is full of tree roots. far is a byway and the track ahead At the top, climb the stile on to the field margin that The Church of is a public bridleway. Continue leads to a dark tunnel of laurel hedging and evergreen St Peter was largely through the woodland to a sec- trees. At the end is a residential access drive where you rebuilt using flint ond public bridleway signpost at should turn left to a narrow road and then left again in 1871 but retains the point where the TW is joined towards Linkenholt and the unassuming – but nonethe- several features of by another track from the left. less very attractive – Grade II-listed Church of St Peter. its original Norman Emerge from Combe Wood and Continue through the village to a road T-junction and construction. keep to the track along the field a small triangular grassy area on which there is a brick built plinth. Raised on the plinth is metal seating that sur- rounds a horse chestnut tree. Bear right at the junction St Peter’s at passing a waymarked path by several large barns (left) and Linkenholt

28 29 Walking Hampshire’s Test Way Stage 1 – Inkpen Beacon to Hurstbourne Tarrant

go straight on for another 500 metres to a hedge and tree- lined grass and stony track that is TW waymarked (left). Follow the track for 600 metres to a track junction and then continue for a further 800 metres to reach a track crossover where you should bear left. The track is mainly hedge and tree-lined – although at times open on both sides – as it crosses cultivated downland in a broad arc sweeping around to the right for 3km towards Ibthorpe.

Jane Austen was a regular visitor to the now Grade II-listed Georgian country house – Ibthorpe House – which it is thought she used as the model for Longbourn – the home of the Bennet family in Pride and Prejudice.

Half way along Shortly after passing Upper Ibthorpe Farm at the the path is a small eastern edge of Ibthorpe, you will come to a junction at enclosure of trees the unmarked Horseshoe Lane. Bear left for 200 metres called ‘John’s Copse to reach the gate at the entrance to a farm access track. 1969’ where the Go through the TW waymarked side gate – which is names of several where this stage meets Walk 1 coming from Hurstbourne kissing gate that leads to a stony path and the busy A343 Between Linkenholt animals are Tarrant – and follow the track for 90 metres to another running through Hurstbourne Tarrant. and Hurstbourne recorded on slate gate (right), which opens on to a grassy path enclosed by Cross the road to the residential access track that Tarrant memorial plaques. wooden post and rail fencing.3 gives way to another enclosed path alongside a rendered Continue along the path to a gate fronting a patch of wall. After a few metres ignore the waymarked footpath scrubland and the bed of the River Swift, which is imme- and stile (left) and continue to a second old kissing gate diately to the right. Cross the few metres to a kissing gate that opens into a rising field; descend diagonally right and a grassy path enclosed by electric fencing. for 125 metres to a third old kissing gate and the B3048. Cross the road and bear left for 90 metres, passing the The bed of the intermittent River Swift continues school, before turning right to join the rough tarmac track in parallel – a ‘winterbourne’, which from time to for the few metres to the recreation ground car park. time feeds into the Bourne Rivulet – a tributary of the River Test. The flow of the Swift has been inter- rupted for very long periods in the past when there has been insufficient rain during the winter.

At the end of the path is a wide field gate that opens on to a very small area of meadow. Continue to the gate opposite and follow the enclosed grassy path to an old

30 31