WALKING HAMPSHIRE’S TEST WAY About the Author WALKING Malcolm Leatherdale has a particular interest in walking and exploring his native Hampshire. He has lived for the past 15 years a stone’s throw away HAMPSHIRE’S TEST WAY from the River Test and the Test Way. Malcolm is an active cyclist and also a former marathon runner having competed several times in the London THE LONG-DISTANCE TRAIL AND 15 DAY WALKS Marathon. He has written several books and a number of articles. Malcolm is also a member of the Ramblers and it is his passion for by Malcolm Leatherdale walking and being in the ‘great outdoors’ that has prompted this guide- book. His hope is that it will encourage others of all ages and abilities to experience the delights that come from walking generally and the Test Way and the wider Test Valley in particular. JUNIPER HOUSE, MURLEY MOSS, OXENHOLME ROAD, KENDAL, CUMBRIA LA9 7RL www.cicerone.co.uk © Malcolm Leatherdale 2018 First edition 2018 CONTENTS ISBN: 978 1 85284 953 5 Map key ...................................................... 6 Printed by KHL Printing, Singapore Overview map ................................................. 7 A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated. INTRODUCTION .............................................. 9 Brief history of the Test Valley ..................................... 11 The Andover and Redbridge canal and the ‘Sprat and Winkle’ railway ...... 12 © Crown copyright 2018 OS PU100012932 Geology and landscape ......................................... 15 Plants and wildlife ............................................. 18 Where to stay ................................................. 19 Getting to and around the Test Way and to the walks ................... 20 Walking the Test Way ........................................... 20 Acknowledgements Cycling – the National Cycle Network and parts of the Test Way .......... 22 Maps ....................................................... 23 My thanks to my wife Patsie for her patience and support in getting me Waymarking, access and rights of way .............................. 23 across the finishing line. I am also grateful to Anna Leatherdale, Laurence Protecting the countryside ....................................... 23 Martin and Tom Nixon. Using this guide ............................................... 24 THE TEST WAY ................................................ 25 Stage 1 Inkpen Beacon to Hurstbourne Tarrant ..................... 26 Updates to this guide Stage 2 Hurstbourne Tarrant to St Mary Bourne ..................... 32 Stage 3 St Mary Bourne to Longparish ............................ 37 While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guide- Stage 4 Longparish to Wherwell ................................ 43 books as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edi- Stage 5 Wherwell to Stockbridge ................................ 49 tion. Any updates that we know of for this guide will be on the Cicerone Stage 6 Stockbridge to Mottisfont ............................... 54 website (www.cicerone.co.uk/953/updates), so please check before plan- Stage 7 Mottisfont to Romsey .................................. 59 ning your trip. We also advise that you check information about such Stage 8 Romsey to Eling Wharf Totton ............................ 64 things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. We are always grateful for information about any WALKS BETWEEN INKPEN BEACON AND WHERWELL ................ 71 discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by Walk 1 Hurstbourne Tarrant and Ibthorpe ......................... 72 email to [email protected] or by post to Cicerone, Juniper House, Walk 2 Whitchurch, Laverstoke and Freefolk ....................... 77 Murley Moss, Oxenholme Road, Kendal, LA9 7RL. Walk 3 Longparish, Forton, Harewood Forest and Deadman’s Plack ..... 82 Register your book: To sign up to receive free updates, special offers Walk 4 Barton Stacey and Bransbury ............................. 87 and GPX files where available, register your book at www.cicerone.co.uk. Walk 5 Wherwell and Goodworth Clatford ........................ 91 WALKS BETWEEN CHILBOLTON AND STOCKBRIDGE ................ 97 Front cover: Fisherman’s Hut at Longstock (Walk 8) Walk 6 Chilbolton, Fullerton, Goodworth Clatford and Upper Clatford ... 98 Walk 7 Chilbolton Observatory and Chilbolton Common ............ 103 OVERVIEW MAP Walk 8 Danebury Iron Age hill fort and Longstock ................. 107 M4 Walk 9 Stockbridge and Marsh Court ........................... 113 N Walk 10 Stockbridge Down and Little Somborne ................... 117 A4 Hungerford Thatcham Newbury A4 WALKS BETWEEN HOUGHTON AND TOTTON ..................... 123 0 20 km Walk 11 Houghton and Broughton .............................. 124 Walk 12 Houghton, King’s Somborne and Horsebridge ............... 129 Tadley Walk 13 Stonymarsh, Mottisfont, Kimbridge and Michelmersh ......... 134 Pewsey Burbage Walk 14 Lockerley, Mottisfont and Dunbridge ..................... 140 A339 Walk 15 Romsey, Fishlake Meadows Nature Reserve and Greatbridge ... 145 Stage 1 1 A34 Appendix A Route summary tables ............................. 150 Ludgershall Appendix B Itinerary planner .................................. 152 Stage 2 Basingstoke Appendix C A345 Accommodation near the Test Way .................... 153 A338 A338 Andover Appendix D Useful contacts ................................... 154 Whitchurch Stage 3 R Test 2 Appendix E Further reading ................................... 155 A303 3 Stage 4 Grateley 6 5 Amesbury 7 4 A343 Stage 5 A30 A33 8 A272 A338 3 0 A Stockbridge A M3 New 5 A30 5 7 9 7 ! Alresford Stage 6 King’s Salisbury # A31 $ Somborne Winchester Route symbols on OS map extracts Features on the overview map % (for OS legend see printed OS maps) & County/Unitary boundary SOUTH A27 Stage 7 A3090 route National boundary ( DOWNS A36 start/finish point Urban area Romsey n Eastleigh o M271 start point National Park v A Stage 8 eg NEW FOREST R finish point M27 Area of Outstanding Natural Southampton route direction Beauty/National Scenic Area Fordingbridge eg North Wessex Downs A31 A326 M27 800m Fareham A27 600m NEW Hythe GPX files 400m FOREST 200m GPX files for all routes can be downloaded Ringwood A337 free at www.cicerone.co.uk/953/GPX. 75m Gosport 0m A35 Portsmouth Lymington e Sol Th ent 6 7 WALKING HAMPSHIRE’S TEST WAY Test Way direction post at Mottisfont (Stage 6/Walks 13 & 14) INTRODUCTION From Houghton Bridge (Walk 12) For some, the magic of the River Test inhabiting the various Sites of Special is all about fresh water fly-fishing but Scientific Interest (SSSI) – including for others it is simply the lure of a Stockbridge Down, a haven for many sparkling river famously described as species of butterfly – and it is not dif- ‘gin clear’. The Test flows majestically ficult to understand the attraction of a the 40 miles (65km) from its source place that so completely defines pas- in the hamlet of Ashe near Overton toral England. in north Hampshire to the edge of Chalk streams are a very rare Southampton Water. There is though, breed among the various types of so much more to this land of vibrant river that can be found on our planet. green – its variety of landscape, gently Such streams naturally occur in those sloping tree-clad hills, the occasional areas where chalk is the main geo- remnant of a former water meadow logical feature. Water seeps through or chalk grassland – all set against a the porous chalk to feed the springs backdrop of a fascinating history and that in turn give rise to rivers such as geology. Add to that the vast array the Test. The pure water, rich in nutri- of wildflowers, plants and wildlife ents, also helps to maintain a plentiful 8 9 WALKING HAMPSHIRE’S TEST WAY BRIEF HIStoRY OF THE TEST VALLEY supply of insects on which fish stocks hosting one of only four ecclesiastical ‘mania’ that followed have also left stages of the TW, there is something rely (please refer to the section dovecotes that remain in England. their distinctive mark. At the ivy cov- for everyone. Ten of the walks also Geology and landscape). There are Nor is there any shortage of ered remains of the former Fullerton interweave with parts of the TW so only about 200 chalk streams world- individual buildings of outstanding Junction station you can imagine that it is possible in the course of those wide of which 160 are in England and architectural quality as the 12th cen- in the heyday of the Andover and walks for you to achieve the best of the River Test − also an SSSI − is one tury Romsey Abbey, the resplendent Redbridge railway (generally known both worlds! of the finest examples. Mottisfont Abbey (now owned by as the ‘Sprat and Winkle’) the scene Some of the area’s history is the National Trust) and the unique then would have been very differ- quite intriguing, notably the murder- Whitchurch Silk Mill bear witness. ent from the sense of tranquillity that BRIEF HISTORY OF THE ous story of the Saxon Queen Elfrida There is also the dramatic impact can now be enjoyed. Some of the old TEST VALLEY and the founding of Wherwell Abbey of our forebears − the imposing track bed also forms part of the Test Dating from the Neolithic period in the 10th century. The monu- Danebury Iron Age hill fort being one Way (TW). (4500–2200BC) there is evidence of ment known as Deadman’s Plack in example. You can also