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Notes for Visit to Bowland and Pendle

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Notes for Visit to Bowland and Pendle THE CHAPELS SOCIETY NOTES FOR VISIT TO BOWLAND AND PENDLE Saturday, 13 September 2014 River Ribble and Pendle Hill from Sawley All the places we shall be visiting today are administratively in the County of Lancashire. But before the 1974 boundary changes only Wheatley Lane was in Lancashire, the remainder being in the West Riding of Yorkshire. Note, however, that the latest revised Buildings of England volumes (Leach and Pevsner (2009), Hartwell and Pevsner (2009)) and Stell (1994) keep to the old county boundaries. The far western edge of Yorkshire and the adjacent parts of Lancashire have an administrative history which is complex if not downright confusing. Yet the adjacent valleys of the Aire, the Hodder and the Ribble, which dominate the area, have provided an easy transport route from east to west through the Pennine barrier from earliest times. This route is represented today by the Leeds‐Liverpool canal which reaches its highest point close to Barnoldswick. To the east lies the area known as Craven which extends north‐west along the Pennines from its centre at Skipton Castle: in the west lies the Honour of Clitheroe with its own castle. Between and partially imposed on these are the three Royal Forests of Bowland, Pendle and Trawden with their distinct customs and administrations. Ecclesiastically the western part of the area was entirely within the mediaeval parish of Whalley, covering an area of four hundred square miles, whereas in the Archdeaconry of Craven in the east the parishes were smaller but still extending far from the parish centres. The raising of cattle was early introduced into the forests with their bleak moorland tops, the winter quarters were clearings in the forest called vaccaries or ‘booths’. During the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries population grew and gradually more and more of the moorland came to be cultivated and enclosed. The ecclesiastical response was to plant chapels rather than new parishes to provide pastoral care of remote areas. Sheep farming and the attendant woollen industry began to grow at this time although this area did not experience that thorough‐going industrialisation of the nineteenth century which occurred to the south. 1 Religious dissent came early. The dissolution of the monasteries of Whalley and Sawley in 1536 led to a local uprising which became part of the Pilgrimage of Grace and was put down with equal ferocity. In nearby Grindleton in 1615, Roger Brearley, the curate of the chapelry, became well‐known for preaching antinomian beliefs (that faith is sufficient for salvation) and was prosecuted at York, although the archbishop is thought to have supported him and he returned to his charge, moving in 1622 to Kildwick, east of Skipton, and eventually to Burnley where he died in 1636. Grindletonianism is thought to have been popular in the area until the 1660s, although there are few records. Quakerism grew near here and Presbyterianism and independency were also strong – supported during the interregnum by Major‐General John Lambert, whose family home was at Calton in Malhamdale – and sustained after the restoration by ejected clergy of whom the most famous are Oliver Heywood (1630‐1702) and Thomas Jollie (1629‐1703). In 1670 a nonconformist academy was set up at Rathmell, near Settle, by Richard Frankland (1630‐1698) which supplied the need for trained ministers. The first presbyterian ordination in Yorkshire took place at Richard Mitchel's house in Craven, on 8 July 1678. ITINERARY SKIPTON TO WHEATLEY LANE Providence Chapel, Black Lane Ends, Colne Our route from Skipton takes the old coaching road across the River Aire through Carleton‐ in‐Craven, climbing up to the top of the moors and then proceeding, with excellent views in good weather, towards Colne. Just at the point where the descent into Colne starts at Black Lane Ends we shall pass on the right Providence Wesleyan Methodist Chapel of 1880, now in residential use. After negotiating the edge of Colne and a brief encounter with the M65 we shall climb to the relative quiet of Wheatley Lane. ******* 2 INGHAMITE CHAPEL, WHEATLEY LANE (SD839384) Benjamin Ingham (1712‐1772), who came from Ossett in Yorkshire, was one of the members of Wesley’s ‘Holy Club’ in Oxford. Converted to an evangelical faith he began an itinerant preaching ministry, particularly in Yorkshire. In 1741 he sided with the Moravians against Wesley and later handed over the societies he had gathered in Yorkshire to the Moravians. But later he severed his links with the Moravians. He also disagreed with Wesley on perfection, his theology evidently being more Calvinist. He joined with George Whitfield on a number of preaching tours. Later in the 1740s he developed his own preaching circuit concentrating on the Craven area of Yorkshire, Lancashire and Westmorland. The society at Wheatley Lane was the first to build its own chapel in 1750 and this was registered as a Dissenting Place of Worship in 1754, leading to the connexion being organised as a separate denomination. In 1759 connections were made with the Glasites, or Sandemanians, in Scotland, but this had disastrous consequences, completely shattering the Inghamite connexion, only a few congregations remaining as Inghamite. The 1851 Religious Census recorded nine congregations. At Wheatley Lane the morning congregation consisted of 45 persons plus 55 Sunday School Scholars; there were 108 at the afternoon service but no evening service was held. Seven churches still remained in the mid‐twentieth century, all in the Colne area of Lancashire, except for one in Kendal. By 1995 this had reduced to three and now there is just Wheatley Lane. The chapel lies to the north‐east of the hamlet of Wheatley Lane on the road which runs from Barrowford to Padiham, through the villages of Fence and Higham. Currently both hamlet and chapel lie in the civil parish of Old Laund Booth but historically this was part of the parish of Whalley the chapel itself being in the township of Wheatley Carr Booth. There are many weavers’ cottages in these places, but the later mills for power looms were established in the town of Nelson in the valley below. One hundred years ago you would have seen a forest of chimneys but today most have gone and only two mills remain weaving. The frontage of the chapel faces south‐east towards Nelson and the Pennines hills on the opposite side of the valley, rising to a height of 1700 feet on Boulsworth Hill. The chapel is situated in the corner of an extensive burial ground and is of a form that will become familiar on our visits today with the entrance on the long frontage with a cottage for the minister or caretaker at one end. The building is of stone with blue slate roof. The original chapel had two doorways, one in each of the end bays, with four round‐headed windows in between. A notable feature is the sundial of c.1800 on the south corner carrying the Biblical injunction ‘Be ye also ready for in such an hour as ye think not the Son of Man cometh’ (Matt.24:44). The cottage at the north‐east end was added later in the eighteenth century. The chapel was refitted, re‐roofed and 3 considerably enlarged to the north‐west in 1897 to provide room for an organ and large choir, the new extension being of rather more ecclesiastical appearance. Much of the 1897 interior remains despite the rearrangement of the sanctuary area to suit the requirements of modern evangelical worship. References. Hartwell and Pevsner (2009), p.290. Pickles (1995). Podmore (2004). Stell (1994), p.121. TNA HO 129/478/85. ******* WHEATLEY LANE TO SAWLEY Ebenezer Chapel, Blacko. Martin Top Chapel Driving from Wheatley Lane to Sawley we shall pass Ebenezer Independent Methodist Chapel at Blacko (SD859416) and Salem Independent (Congregational) Chapel at Martin Top (SD821458). Ebenezer is dated 1867 and has paired doors in the gable end with round‐headed fanlights in a doorcase with pilasters, flanked by round‐headed windows with keystones ‘i.e. terribly old‐fashioned’ concludes Pevsner (or rather Clare Hartwell). It is possible that the origins of this chapel are to be found in the group of Benevolent Methodists who were meeting at Wheatley Lane in 1851; we shall meet Benevolent Methodists again at Barnoldswick. Salem Chapel was built in 1817. Like Wheatley Lane, it is has the doorways on the long front, with a later cottage at one end. The frontage is of six bays, with four round‐arched windows and the two doorways. The centre pair of windows is higher as they flank the pulpit which is on this wall. On the outside there is a sun dial between the centre windows. Shortly after passing Martin Top we pass through the hamlet of Newby where the Friends’ Meeting met before moving to Sawley. References Hartwell and Pevsner (2009), p.132. Leach and Pevsner (2009), p.633. Stell (1994), p.303. TNA HO 129/478/83. Benevolent Methodists, Wheatley Lane, Lancashire. Wolfe (2005), p1. ******* 4 FRIENDS’ MEETING HOUSE, SAWLEY (SD773467) Although always known as ‘Sawley’ strictly this Meeting House is located in Grindleton as it stands on the opposite side of the River Ribble from Sawley itself. Here we are close to Pendle Hill, a constant presence during our tour today, and the beginning of Quakerism is sometimes considered to be the day sometime in 1652 when George Fox was ‘moved of the Lord to go atop if it’. He climbed to the top ‘with much ado’ because ‘it was so steep’ and having done so he was ‘moved to sound the day of the Lord’ and the Lord let him see ‘a great people to be gathered’.
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