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FOOD FANATICS LIFE OF PIE WINTER 2014 AL LADO’S MEATBALLS

For these meatball recipes, go to FOODFANATICS.COM NOT YOUR GRANDMA’S AT ONE TIME, MEATBALLS WERE TO SPAGHETTI AS PEANUT BUTTER TO JELLY: A PERFECT PAIR. These EDDIE MERLOT’S days, meatballs are going solo, grabbing MEATBALLS attention as a classic Italian-American staple alongside other global power balls made with Chefs bolster goat, chicken and lamb. In fact, meatballs have become popular enough to carry a menu section menus with ballsy and even an entire concept. A bonus: If you play your cards right, they can be a low- takes on a cost winner and a signature item that will draw customers. Here are some meaty classic attention-worthy finds to inspire your meatball dish or menu:

KEFI’S MEATBALLS

By Rachel Mount Hofstetter

16 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2014 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 17 The Jet-setting Meatball ($12) with currants, pine nuts and French assign di!erent meat costs to various dishes Nearly every culture has its own take on the THE PERFECT BLEND sheep’s milk cheese (Ossau-Iraty) instead at Storefront Company so that pricier racks meatball, providing endless opportunities to It’s Personal We treat them of the classic Parmesan. “We treat them like of meat and New York strips can sell for more, introduce it as a classic or re-imagine it through Mexican restaurants treat guacamole—it’s the while the ground meat mixture in his meatballs a chef lens. like Mexican first dish people order to share, and they eat carries a food cost of about 25 percent. Greek: Meatballs allow Chef Michael Michael Psilakis grinds Kefi’s 30 percent beef and restaurants treat them while perusing the menu,” Executive “At the end of the day, if I’m utilizing and Psilakis to balance the cuisine of his heritage 30 percent pork in-house and shapes it with an ice Chef Bryan Moscatello says. selling all parts of the lamb, I’m doing well,” with consumer-friendly dishes at Kefi in New cream scoop. “You don’t want to mix it a lot or the guacamole—it’s the first Duck: The hot item at Japanese gastropub he says. “The meatballs help us do that so York. “I couldn’t call the dish the traditional fat becomes emulsified and changes the molecular dish people order to share, Miyabi 45th in Seattle is Chef Mutsuko Soma’s they’re a win.” name tsoutsoukakia on the menu, but structure,” he says. duck meatball appetizer ($12). Soma grinds customers immediately identify meatballs,” he and they eat them while duck breasts with the fat and skin, adding Rachel Mount Hofstetter is the author of says. “It demystifies the Greek-ness of it.” Kefi’s perusing the menu. chicken breasts to boost the protein-to-fat “Cooking Up a Business” (December 2013, meze-size order of meatballs, served with a —Bryan Moscatello of Storefront Company ratio. Eggs, panko and cornstarch keep the Penguin). Her work has appeared in O, the kalamata olive and tomato sauce ($6.95), has 70% BEEF meatballs moist, while a salt-water poach Oprah Magazine, Reader’s Digest, Fitness come close to a signature item. creates a light texture. and others. Asian: Malaysian flavors inspired Chef Gregory Gourdet to create wagyu meatballs The Classic Keeps On Rolling with garam masala and palm sugar soy PORK 30% Grandma’s classics are still kicking, proven ($12) at Departure Restaurant + Lounge in by the wave of niche restaurants from New Portland, Ore. York (The Meatball Shop) to San Diego Lebanese: The classic Lebanese preparation, (Meatball Cucina) where meatballs are the kibbe, with lamb and bulgur wheat is served stars. But “classic” doesn’t have to mean rote with hummus and cucumber salad ($14) at or traditional, as shown by the six varieties Figue Mediterranean in La Quinta, Calif. Carla Pellegrino, formerly of the Meatball Spot, mixes o!ered at Meatball Spot in Las Vegas. Still, Spanish: Meatballs make for a perfect tapas- meat and textures: coarsely ground beef, medium grind the restaurant estimates that the $9.99 Italian Lamb Albóndigas Chef de Cuisine Clint Wangsnes sized dish at Al Lado in Denver, where Chef de veal and finely ground pork. “The fine grind of the pork classic (blend of beef, veal and pork) makes up means it can mix into the other two meats,” she says. Al Lado, Denver Cuisine Clint Wangsnes pairs bite-sized lamb 80 percent of the orders. meatballs with a tomato-based sauce, zucchini At Pizzeria Biga in Detroit, Chef Luciano 5 pounds ground lamb Chicken meatball slider with and goat cheese ($10). VEAL Del Signore’s customers often go for a side ¾ cup garlic, minced Parmesan, thyme and sauce, $2.50 ¼ cup thyme, chopped Swedish: IKEA may have put this Swedish of meatballs ($7.50) to accompany their 24th & Meatballs, Portland, Ore. classic on the U.S. map, but New York’s Smorgas BEEF slices. He braises the meatballs made with ¼ cup parsley, chopped ¼ cup mint, chopped Chef makes a fancier version with local 25% local grass-fed beef, fresh breadcrumbs, 50% Eggplant meatballs with 3 tablespoons salt heritage pork and grass-fed beef served with egg, parsley and cheese. “At my high-end spicy marinara, $4.99 2 tablespoons smoked paprika chive mashed potatoes, pickled red cabbage, restaurant, Bacco, we do duck meatballs, Brooklyn Meatball Company, 1 tablespoon black pepper gradd (brown) sauce and lingonberries ($22). lamb meatballs, anything new,” he says. “But Houston, Texas 1 teaspoon cayenne PORK 25% Pizzeria Biga is a casual neighborhood spot, 2 cups panko Lamb köfte (Turkish meatballs) with 1½ cup heavy cream Meat Your Match and beef is exactly what people love.” onions, parsley and spices, $7.95 Chefs aren’t just playing with spice and sauce Olive oil as needed Cafe Divan, Washington, D.C. 1 quart demi glace flavors—they’re also using the trusty meatball A Solid Cost Performer 5 quarts Cordero sauce, recipe follows to introduce hesitant customers to gamier There’s just as much variety in a meatball’s Salmon meatballs with pasta Grilled zucchini, as needed proteins beyond the stalwart beef. At Storefront Company, Bryan Moscatello uses the food cost as in its range of flavor possibilities. in red pepper cream sauce Goat cheese, as needed Goat: Goat meat is the primary protein in classic 80 percent lean-20 percent fat ratio with a The “meat” in meatballs is stretched with with bacon, peppers and the meatball appetizer ($13) at Nick’s Cove in medium grind. “To achieve that with lamb, I take all of ingredients such as eggs and bread, but without provolone, $7.05 Combine lamb, garlic, herbs, salt, smoked Slotted Spoon Meatball Eatery, Marshall, Calif. Chef Austin Perkins grinds the trimmings from one lamb, plus one of the bellies, a high percentage of low-cost ingredients, the paprika, black pepper and cayenne. Mix in panko Denver and then heavy cream. Use 1-ounce scoop for goat shoulder, mixing it with about 5 percent which are very fatty,” he says. result could be a bump up in food costs. meat to shape and finish into ball with hands. salt pork fat as a binding agent, along with eggs, Del Signore’s meatball food cost is more Meatballs and tomato with Braise in demi glace in 350F oven for 45 minutes; oil, Parmesan, carrot, celery and coriander. FAT than he’d like at Pizzeria Biga (higher end basil, Parmesan, ginger, soy strain. At service, warm desired portion with “They sell much better than I thought they of 30 percent), but it’s balanced by lower- sauce and gochujang (spicy Cordero sauce and serve in small cast-iron pot would—a lot of people are wary of goat,” 20% cost menu items. At the value- and volume- Korean condiment), $10 with grilled zucchini and goat cheese. Perkins says. “But this is an accessible way driven Kefi, low price points are o!set Poppy Den, Las Vegas to try something di!erent, and people order by a high number of covers, so Psilakis is Cordero sauce: Saute 2 cups small diced Albóndigas (classic Mexican onions, ½ cup thinly shaved garlic and 1 them again and again.” comfortable with a 25 percent to 28 percent 80% LEAN soup) with lamb and pork tablespoon arbol chiles until translucent. Add 4 Lamb: Nothing goes to waste at Chicago’s food cost. meatballs, tomato saffron broth, quarts crushed Italian tomatoes, 2 cups Catalane Storefront Company, where leftover lamb Working with whole animals can o!er more chickpeas and mint, $10 olive brine and 2 cups olive oil and simmer 20 trimmings become Sicilian-inspired meatballs pricing flexibility. Moscatello says he can Mateo Tapas Bar, Durham, N.C. minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

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